Adam Ondra #86: Tips for Better Clipping / Sid Lives 8c+

The next episode is about a short route called Sid Lives 8c+ or 9a. It is very cool climbing on slopey holds and crimps, requiring weird body tension. The episode is also spiced up with tips on how to clip better, faster and more efficiently.
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Credits:
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
ADAM LIGOCKI
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
LACO KORBEL
EDUCATION PART EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT
PRODUCTION
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Tea Time - Waking Up Once More
Nick Petrov - Morning Texture
© 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
#climbing #tutorial #howtoclip #rockclimbing #sidlives #8c+ #arco #italy #gardatrentino

[@magaureille4007]

Adam's quickest way to clip? Skip that one and climb up to the next bolt...

[@adamtadros1472]

it takes 0.00 seconds to skip a clip, so efficient.

[@lyssalud6781]

just go climbing with a parachute no clips needed

[@assistantgoogle8719]

next time, I will ask to Alex Honnold what is the best way to clip. Answer, don't clip, do free solo :D

[@aspuzling]

I love how Adam just casually repeats and downgrades a 9a in the middle of a tutorial on clipping.

[@Fonzleberry]

Poor guys who are now 8C+ climbers.

[@zeinfeimrelduulthaarn7028]

@@Fonzleberry lmao

[@noeljesus8641]

Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the password. I love any tips you can give me.

[@noeljesus8641]

@Atticus Koa it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass !

[@atticuskoa416]

@Noel Jesus Glad I could help =)

[@mkadlec99]

Love the first bolt trick of pre-clipping!

[@gagiotter4114]

Agreed, that would have helped on some of my very sketchy starts

[@CollinGill7]

that first bolt trick where you climb up with the quickdraw already on the rope is so cool! i never would have thought of that in a million years on my own lol

[@gabrieleboglino]

I think it is a very important to consider the way the route goes to face the gate in the right direction, while in the video Adam says to put the gate just thinking about a fast clip.

[@vazixLT]

I second this concern

[@Destort]

wait, why does the direction of the route matter?

[@nextoliver]

@@Destort If the route traverses, say, to the right and you clip with the gate of the carabiner to the right, worst case scenario the rope can unclip if you fall. Takes some bad luck though, but still, in theory it can happen...

[@matejeberle364]

@@Destort The general rule is that the gate of the carabiner should face the other direction you are climbing so when you fall there is no chance that the rope will end up on the gate and therefore brake it or unclip it.

[@tommarinovic6707]

@@Destort You want to have the gate face away from the direction you are climbing. While climbing the quickdraw may lift or is pushed around and depending on the rock formation its possible that the gate is pushed open during a fall. When placed so its facing away you minimize this risk. Its a small thing and you always should think about how the quickdraw may move. There is no all time rule how to clip it depends on the rock.

[@MaxPhotograph]

Gate away from the direction of the next bolt is considered the safe way, most people watching this..should probably consider safety over speed.

[@duncanwright8392]

Can you clarify - do you mean the lower gate should be the opposite direction of the upper gate of the next bolt ?

[@tylerlego41]

On overhanging routes it's not going to matter as much. He's gonna be way more familiar with that thought process, but I was also surprised it wasn't mentioned. "When clipping stance is good, one can focus on safety by keeping the gates facing away" would have been a great quick one liner!

[@lucaa4480]

why is more safe?

[@tylerlego41]

@@lucaa4480 Because the rope will not be rubbing against the gate or potentially pulling it into the rock and opening it

[@Templercz]

@@duncanwright8392 no, only opposite to the higher bolt. If you climb only to the right side and every next bolt is more on right then the lower one, all your gates should be facing to the left. So if you fall, the rope will be on the opposite side of the gate and there is no chance to unclip it.

[@foihdzas]

I definitely always clip right after the crux, before I rest. Probably because I’m gassed, but I’ll give resting a shot before I clip. Thanks for that Adam

[@mandorodriguez5530]

Love subtle tricks like that!

[@ripapa6355]

During this clipping tutorial, let me take a moment to downgrade the route I'm on.

[@potential1337]

I have learned to clip the gate against the climbing direction! Otherwise there is a chance to clip out the rope when you fall.. Difference is.. Adam never falls...

[@phin422]

How would you clip out while falling? That's not how carabiners work. You have to apply pressure from the outside to open it, not the inside.

[@atromos]

@@phin422 back clipping results in the possibility of the rope exiting the carabiner on its own. Ropes do wild things sometimes. If it takes almost no extra effort, I like to be as safe as possible but 99,999 out of 10,000 if not more it won't matter. Its preference mostly.

[@MaxPhotograph]

@@phin422 The rope going from the clip to the climber applies the pressure from outside..hold a carabiner gate facing up (direction the carabiner will be climbing) and pull the rope top down (like a falling climber).

[@phin422]

@@MaxPhotograph Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Never seen one done like that before, though.

[@potential1337]

It is possible, even if you have to be very unlucky! And a professional, if not the best climber out there, should know this and talk about it..

[@bentoomey15]

I was expecting the same old basic clipping tips, but these were really helpful small details that rarely get repeated elsewhere. Thanks so much! The old saying goes "those who can't do, teach," and I'd add that usually "those who can do, can't teach." But you're proving me wrong.

[@DonPrus]

Nice tutorial! Still waiting your collab with Magnus 🦾

[@MrChick1984]

Adam could visit Magnus new gym, that would be nice.

[@orblyworbly1357]

The “pre-clip in” for the first clip is awesome! Thanks for all of this! 😊

[@andersonboy620]

Adam, the trick of pre clipping the rope is wonderful! Your advices are so useful, thanks so much!

[@andihofm]

adam, i really appreciate the way you "perform" in the climbing scene. the way you reflect the things, the way you climb, the way you live the thing you love ... in this clip you teach clipping mostly from a performance perspective. when we look on the direction of the bolt-carabiner - especially in the often more vertical climbs in the 5th or 6th grade - that

[@1981stonemonkey]

8:00 I´m on the ropes for 26 years now, and that´s a neat little trick I haven´t seen before. Learned something today!

[@ScratchRick]

Thabjs for the tips! Im going to start lead climbing soon and this was really helpful.

[@cedricthoreau1298]

Yeah the first bolt trick is really cool. Thanks Adam

[@diegoamalfitano6831]

Adam, thanks a lot, you're a legend!!! Two security things regarding the quickdraws... - I've read that both gates must be facing the same side, not one to the left the other to the right (changing one biner to clip comfortably) - The gates should be facing the opposite side you're climbing Correct me if I'm wrong, I just want to create good common knowledge

[@earlgrey2130]

This

[@diegoamalfitano6831]

@@earlgrey2130 jajaja This?

[@francescomonini8882]

True, but it s not a law. You want to make sure that the gate on the bolt moves freely and no rock feature interferes with it, side is not important. On the hanging biner yes it s safer if it s on the opposite of climber in principle, but if the biner twists it suddenly becomes the worst scenario. When gate is facing the climber might be a tradeoff

[@jimbojet8728]

Great advice from Adam there. So logical and easy to understand. Thank you Adam.

[@jordyclements3507]

Gates in! This is topic has been settled, Ondra has spoken. #GatesInMafia

[@Yokaiyt]

Thanks so much for the tips! It will be awesome if you can show your climbing knot. I'm a heavy guy and the 8 knot it squeezes a lot when I fall. Best wishes Adam.

[@CoreyMost]

You should watch the figure 8 knot series from the channel Hard is Easy. He goes over what makes some variations of the knot harder to untie than the others. Its a very good series and helped me fix my hard to untie knots. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnvOdJSLis2kndU&ab_channel=HardIsEasy

[@HowardSnable]

@Yokai Use this one and you'll be happy... kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6bSkIKepsSajMk I always use the rethreaded bowline, or in german, doppelter Bulin, from day 1 I started climbing. Never had issues to open the knot. If you understand german, here's a well explained tutorial in german language... kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmXPn3l7r9ihmLc Stay safe... ✌🏻

[@nicolaibatstad6881]

He uses a single Bowline where his tail is secured with a stopper knot. If interested in other more safe tie-in Bowlines I recommend reading through this article based on Mark Gommers’ paper on bowlines: zenandtheartofclimbing.com/tying-bowline/

[@linksgrunversifft4270]

I‘d definitively would recommend a Double bowline maybe Even with a stopper knot. Single bowline makes me shiver…😵‍💫 I‘m 95 kilos and that works really good. But there‘s also a way to do the 8knot so it’s more easy to release, check out „hard is easy“ Channel 😊

[@TonySpinach]

Adam uses a bowline follow through and it’s the safest bowline you can tie into. Check out Ryan Tilley’s video on bowline tie ins

[@TerjeMathisen]

I was very glad to see Adam suggesting having the first draw pre-clipped onto the rope! Back in the eighties we would do this for entire trad routes we were trying to redpoint, i.e. every single piece could be pre-clipped to the rope, in the exact order we were going to place them, so this way each placement was a single motion, even when placing a stopper nut, a cam or just clipping a draw into one of the rare bolts. Except for the possible difficulty of reaching the bolts (and the weight of all those quick-draws), this method makes it almost as easy to climb a bolted route with no pre-placed draws as when you are just clipping into hanging draws.

[@vincentberthierdebortoli1583]

I would say no problem for the first bolt since if you fall beforehand, then your rope is useless. However, starting to the second bolt, if you pre-clip your rope onto your harness through a quickdraw, and then you fall, I guess you might just tear your harness as the first thing to be under the fall force will be the quickdraw clipped to your harness, not the 8 figure knot. I would not see it as very safe...

[@TerjeMathisen]

@@vincentberthierdebortoli1583 We might have been using longer quick draws at that time, there was absolutely no chance of a fall pulling the draws tight before the rope would reach the harness knot.

[@vincentberthierdebortoli1583]

@@TerjeMathisen Then I got you ;)

[@WutTheFink]

Wow all these tips really hit 🙏

[@Trumpumpumpum]

Adam Ondra gives a tutorial - it can't be better then this. Thank you!

[@melinad.2486]

Thanks so much. I I really appreciate the tipps. Especially the one with pre clipping the rope and only clip the first bolt!! Thanks

[@323gtr]

Thx Adam! Next time i will get the first clip on my 4a!

[@henripoulet5232]

Always on time thanks you to make my Monday night better

[@RossPotts]

@8:20, I REALLY like that technique for the first clip!

[@adrenalinehunter1697]

Very useful tips!! Thanks Adam

[@arturoarino]

I'm learning so much from you Adam!! thanks a lot for doing this, Yesterday was my 4th time on the mountain although I've been for 2 years going to the gym, but your videos are super helpful for people like me! I was having a hard time clipping and now is much better!!

[@bocchinicolo1419]

So clear. Thank’s Adam!

[@bakirsila86]

He is so good person 👍 Thx Adam for always inspiring climbers around the world 🧗

[@coryupton669]

wow! I prefer the thumb technique over everything. This video changed my climbing game.

[@toddjames7626]

Great tips!

[@kavali6320]

Fingers like a magician! Thanks for all the tips including clipping! Congrats on sending Sid Lives! It's been a pleasure watching ;)

[@mathaem]

Thank you Adam four your advices 🙏🏼

[@albertburjachs4476]

Tutorial of clipping. First tip: skip clipping. Lol! I loved the video!

[@timmullis6504]

This is a great video Adam so much information. Thank you.

[@randomclimber]

Thank you for the the first bolt pre-clipping!

[@404am3]

Does screaming help clipping?

[@jasperfeldschuh3644]

definitely. It helps all aspects of climbing 😂

[@JBereza]

I hope that the next tutorial will be about screaming and how to use it in the most efficient way :-D

[@earlgrey2130]

Screaming always helps bruv 😁

[@jakubsuchy6327]

@@JBereza good tip for April fool episode

[@fxc5313]

Great stuff!

[@picasadeluxe]

All can be seen clearly in slow motion by reducing the video velocity! :) Fixing the rope first with the mouth to prolong the rope lenght for clipping is realy an old style, but sometimes still necessary. We climb nowerdays in order to clip easy ! :)Thumb clipping is a new style and especially in overhangs with the advantage to have a little shorter way to clip, especiallay when the carabiner shows in your direction, but it depends on a very good belayer that does not sleep and reacts immediatly when you need the rope for clipping! Many climbers also trust in modern , when the first carabiner is too high position. Adam is one of the very less climbers that use the single Bulin knot (too), so thumb clipping seems to me logically being a bit easier using this knot, but never use it as a hobby climber, trust only in the 8 knot or the double Bulin , nothing else!

[@DidierLoiseau]

Surprised to see no security considerations regarding gate orientation

[@PapousWebNode]

Yes, this is really strange. I always thought the gate should be oposite to direction of climbing.

[@kedpik]

@@PapousWebNode I learned exactly the same thing, but more like it's better to opposite it, not totally essential...

[@nicdes5540]

As long as you don't back clip the direction doesn't matter, it's only safer to have it opposed where you climb just in case you back clip, then the rope can't come out

[@gavin8615]

@@nicdes5540 oh man this makes perfect sense, i was always taught to do it but could never understand why! Now it is clear

[@screew708]

@@nicdes5540 It does still matter even when you don't backclip. There is a chance that the rope may unclip itself especially if the route is traversing. It is quite unlikely though especially on sport routes which are usually quite straight.

[@joaquimg5361]

Underrated meme at 9:48

[@francoisgleyzon6926]

thanks for your vidéo Adam !

[@robertrider9845]

Really helpful

[@asdzt123]

A little piece of advice for newbies. Never let any finger get trapped between the carabineer and the rope when clipping, even for a microsecond. If you fall right at that moment the rope will press your finger against the carabineer and you'll get a very very nasty injury, at least a broken bone if not worse. For example, with the thumb method, the thumb should never pass through the gate, it just pushes the rope but always stays outside the gate.

[@kletterpuls]

Hey there Adam, thanks for all those information and the tips and tricks. Think there are a lot of people needing those few percent you can get back by clipping fast and easy. One thing I need to admit due to safety reason: the direction of the upper biner of that quickdraw can’t be determined by how I like to clip more than on where the route leads. If I climb above the quickdraw on the right the biner needs to be directed with gate to the left and otherway round. Its a matter of safety due to the upper biner is able to unclip when turning and pressing on the bolt from above. This is something mostly happening on steep as well on slabby routes but think it has to be mentioned. Think you know about that and maybe it got lost in your otherwise amazing clip. Thanks for sharing quality content with the climbers community 😉😃

[@logiconabstractions6596]

Great, I clip & rack up exaclty like Adam Ondra. Now there's just the easy part left, which is picking up 2-3 number grades. SEE YOU IN TOKYO ADAM!

[@Tynuska2011]

Seš můj nejoblíbenější sportovec protože ti to jde ale hlavně protože jsi spravedlivý člověk.

[@toniokettner4821]

a protože jsi čech

[@hannesbluemer6497]

1:28 the sound i make in summer having a cold drink :)

[@bertrandboiton5492]

thank you !

[@griffenalexander5597]

What a clip! Thanks Adam

[@jesusalejandrorosas5224]

I' ll use the rest before clipping tech tip thanks!

[@tommedcouk]

Great tips, really useful thanks 🙏

[@vascoamaralgrilo]

Great insight!

[@theGentec]

I really enjoy these Tip videos! - there is always something to learn :D

[@arnolodo]

Im wondering how many friends of mine will do that first bolt clipping trick on the weekend :D. Everyone is watching your videos over here! Their are just entertaining and full of knowledge, Shoutouts from Vienna, Austria!!!!!!!!!!!

[@jameshowie9977]

Haha, likewise!!

[@gon_trek2481]

Quick Question: As mentioned you can turn the lower caribiner each way depending on whether you are clipping with your fingers or with your thumb, but, Why do you want the gate of the upper caribiner always facing towards you? I thought the gate directions had to do with which way yo are climbing up from that bolt, and that it had to be the opposite way to the one you are climbing to.. cheers if anyone knows!

[@lisa-koschat]

Yeah I was told the same. The opening should face away from the route direction for safety.

[@IliaNadyrbayev]

This is the case when there is a fall potential and the resulting fall would possibly loop over the draw and unclip itself. This kind of thing, even though always taught is very rare. And virtually impossible on overhanging routes. So I would say don't worry about it too much unless it's a slabby section or there's a small overhang that the draw is on where the rope might then run a bit tight through the draw. In any case it's specific to each route and I'd say don't worry about it too much as long as you're clipped correctly and there isn't lots of rope drag. If the draws hang nicely and the rope runs nicely through it then it's very unlikely to occur.

[@leoingson]

@@IliaNadyrbayev I disagree, unclipping is quite common. Happened to me twice, and have seen it in mayb 8 other occasions over the years. But you have a point with steep routes - lessens the probability of unclipping.

[@katarzynamazurkiewicz6012]

I was told that you should especially pay attention to this if there's a risk of a huge sideways fall, so when the route makes a significant turn after the bolt you're clipping and that otherwise it rarely makes the difference. Makes sense to me.

[@stefanoses.956]

@@katarzynamazurkiewicz6012 kzbin.info/www/bejne/ionZfZ-om7lkjZo

[@laurentdavou]

Thanks again for this video.

[@adri.climb678]

Thank you for that nice video!

[@noe2267]

This is so useful, thanks adam!

[@davehause8571]

@2:52 Thanks Adam for stating this.

[@DreIsGoneFission]

Sweet! Now I just need a rope, quick-draws, a belay device, someone to go with, and the know-how to sport climb outside! For now I’m going to keep enjoying these awesome videos and my gym bouldering and top-roping.

[@theadnanamiin]

Was very informative Adam thnks fr the master class ,hope to see some more tutorials frm u 💕💕💕😍

[@jeeeeeeees]

Clipping technique? Great! But please do a video where it's WAAAAY slower, and from even better angles, so I can see exactly how you do it :) Thank you :)

[@rikvdmark]

Nice one 😬

[@GuglielmoMannaia]

Clipping bolts seems pointless and outdated. Why not just toprope?

[@GavynPendleton]

Haha! Ok

[@williambrochmann]

If it's an overhanging/traversing route you can't toprope. It's also much faster to lead, since you do not need to set up an anchor. Multipitch also cannot be top roped.

[@pascaljutras178]

I like the idea of clipping the first quickdraw in the rope before climbing to get easier for first bolt but it could be a problem knowing exactly the arm you will use when you try to flash something. when it looks to dangerous I prefer not doing a full lead climb by the use of a quick stick.

[@sebastianastorga6702]

Thanks. Now I'm waiting for Honnold's tutorial in the matter.

[@gianbaumann7131]

Very nice video! I would like to see what he uses for skincare🙌

[@vaportrail226]

This guy is a pretty good climber.

[@banmadabon]

Understatement of the century...He climbs as a f...ing spider!

[@mreavesdropper]

Excellent tips! Especially some tips for advanced climbers wishing to push their grade. Yes, some things said were contrary to what is told to beginners, because the safety principles are true and necessary for the learning stages of climbing. But when pushing for new records and hard ascents, safer practices are reasonably sacrificed in order to reach a new goal. You think the recent speed ascents of El Cap can be accomplished by not simul-climbing? Or harder grades while fumbling with clipping or clipping every bolt (as opposed to reasonably skipping one)?

[@alexanderharte5086]

Love the videos!! Would you ever do a collab with Magnus Mitbø?

[@saulsarry]

They had one planned apparently, then covid happened

[@oliviamoon2639]

i love the idea clipping into the quickdraw with the rope then the wall but i worry about potential back clipping with that

[@illyabakhmet-smolensky6693]

Your way of clipping is super fast, but isn't it less safe? The gate shouldn't face the direction you are climbing, so if you climb diagonally to the right, it's much safer to have the gate on the left side. And with your technique, it's always facing the direction of your climb

[@Furansowakun]

It would have been nice to have a zoom slow motion with explanations when he clips

[@trapouss]

good tips!

[@rockclimbing3844]

Thanks!!!

[@humorizatemelo795]

It´s interesant to know that if the route or the section is in diagonal or horizontal, you have to put the carabiner with the gate far from the diagonal direction.

[@codyheiner3636]

I like how he chooses the gate facing based on clipping efficiency. Goes to show all this nonsense about "you have to place the gate this way" is really unbased. Best climber in the world and been climbing his whole life.

[@kimmikko1]

I mean i remember those carabiners on the got upgraded cus they had the possibility of breaking in the case of a fall…. The carabiner could brake when hitting the mountainwall

[@andrestricker4118]

Adams "good rests" are "Cruxes" for humans

[@williambloom350]

Do a video with Magnus!!!

[@banmadabon]

I clap for the clip clip!

[@ralphmunn1685]

I'm late to this party, but PLEASE - the top 'biner should ALWAYS open away from the climber! If the bolt is to your left, the top 'biner should open to the left. This serves two important functions: it keeps the gate from being pressed into the rock, which is the SINGLE MOST COMMON REASON for 'biner breaks; and it helps to prevent nose-loading, which also substantially weakens the 'biner. The ONLY exception to this rule is if you're about to traverse PAST the bolt, in which case the gate should face away from where you're going to be. The gate of the lower 'biner benefits from the same considerations, but is somewhat less critical, as it's less likely to be pressed into the rock. A more important concern here is "gate chutter," and a lower-mass wire gate should be considered. Slow motion filming of shock-loaded draws has shown the lower 'biner snapping into the fall line, with the gate briefly opening because of its inertia; if the maximum impact occurs while the gate is thusly open, 'biner failure CAN AND DOES occur!

[@rolandofurioso5498]

Toprope forever forever Toprope!

[@PauloItaliano]

Adam, wasn't that said somewhere, that acutally carabiner gates should never be facing rope direction but should be opposite to it? Because falling rope could unclip them?

[@harshtonde1948]

Power ❤️

[@aritzoyaga]

Tips begin at 4:20

[@Gorolaz]

Hello Adam!

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

nice

[@scottkerr1936]

Never thought of clipping the first clip like that, definitely gonna start doing that.

[@galois6569]

Did you use the backwards thumb clip a lot when you were younger? I like this method and I remember learning it from watching videos of you climbing.

[@Remi-B-Goode]

Italy is great ! I mean West Europe of course

[@truthdefenders-]

Ok, come on Mr Ondra, with all the confusion in the comments section you own it to the subscribers to explain the question of gate direction relative to the climber/route.

[@pulsar9818]

guess black diamond was rather happy about this video

[@gnoomlord]

there are probably less people in this world who can climb 8c+ than there are people that watched this video

[@thecolorclear]

I was just thinking about you making a clipping video the other day😭

[@dibeerwolf1645]

Very old clipping Tip of the First Clip 😭 a good climber know this way of clipping! May interessting dir beginners...