Adam Ondra #17: The Alchemy Of Climbing Shoes

[@marcgiol541]

Still waiting for an episode about your streching routine :)

[@ilikebananasFPV]

lets upvote this guy so we can get a video!

[@solonthorberg]

Yes please!

[@taim69]

Marc Giol that would be amazing

[@eztvlight1202]

Moar upvotes!

[@andreatimillero393]

UUP!!

[@randomidiot8977]

Please can you make a video on what scream to use when climbing different rock surfaces?

[@narakarrarr6191]

I am dying.

[@leedave9314]

@@narakarrarr6191 help is on its way, sorry I’m late

[@zionraymondcastro]

HAHAHA

[@Nuttyirishman85]

A soundtrack over it would be good. I just tried watching one and had to change it. Neighbors probably thought I was dying or someone was in danger.

[@Chelovek77able]

Probably it would be 18+ video because of swearing

[@AMM1998]

44 to a 39.5, so that's why adam is always screaming while climbing

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

I go 46 to 41.5. It is worth it for a hard redpoint. I train in 44's

[@NunoRufas101]

I go from 39 to 40... sometimes 41. But I use socks and don't do 8's or 9's :D

[@Mike-oz4cv]

The size difference sounds more extreme than it actually is.

[@floriandietsche9180]

Exactly what I wanted to comment 😂👌

[@AMM1998]

@@Mike-oz4cv it really doesn't. I wear 44 street which is the same as ondra.and I wear a 43 in Solutions... I have no idea how he can downsize to a 40 - I can't even get my foot into a 42.5. That's absolutely ludicrous

[@ericgould1195]

The world's best shoe salesman. Great explanations!

[@optimusprime7003]

With the wrong brand on his feet :-)

[@SmiteKite]

Adam Bundy

[@Pedro28725]

@@optimusprime7003 And why is La Sporiva the wrong brand?

[@optimusprime7003]

@@Pedro28725 Bad quality sice 5 more than 5 years. New Models are cheap in Shape... Scarpa, Tenaya and many more are way better the last years 😁

[@nikowalski9569]

I've been climbing for 4 years twice a week, I'm using climbing shoes of my size with socks, It's comfy and never painful. I've felt progression during my entire experience, I'm currently challenged by 11C, and most importantly I'm having fun. I don't deny or support fact that undersized can help you climbing better, but it's certainly not a requirement to enjoy the sport or getting better at it.

[@markkealy4417]

I've always worn atleast 2 european sizes bigger

[@jeygee3736]

Smaller and stiffer will help with smaller and technical foothold which are found on harder climbs

[@MarysJanuszPazdzioch]

I bought 1 UK size smaller and really struggling. Walking and climbing is so painful. I'm beginner and those shoes are far from comfortable. Think twice before you do it. Cannot imagine wearing 3-4 size smaller 😮

[@figgledoi]

Youre climbing 11c… with socks… whyyyyy

[@colekirzy9046]

@@MarysJanuszPazdzioch gotta break them in for about 12 sessions for them to be bearable

[@hyau23]

Worth mentioning that sportiva size 2-3 sizes below your street size unlike other companies

[@Moritz1868]

Yeah. Don't just buy all your shoes 3-5 sizes below your street shoes just because it works best for Adam and LaSportiva.

[@zeffery101]

yeah, i just got a la sportiva tarantulace and got 2 sizes bigger and my big toe still touches the end a bit well i just learned its not supposed to feel comfortable

[@Bozzley]

Wow this is actually one of the most approachable yet informative (and entertaining) climbing shoe videos I've ever seen. Thank you very much!! Definitely gonna send this one to friends trying to make shoe decisions :)

[@javierdelaros]

Mate the production of your videos keeps getting better and better! Good job team Ondra.

[@alexanderlatzenaugust2866]

Yeah lets downsize the Solutions 4 sizes 😂😂 My feet hurt with like 1 Size

[@abelcordelier5670]

That’s why he’s screaming so hard when he climb 🤔😂

[@isekanone]

I am 3,5 sizes below in Solutions :D

[@prestonadams16]

I am currently breaking in a new solution 2.5 sizes down. Its rough

[@MrBrennanMatt]

@@ozapenguin how much do they stretch?

[@TrackpadProductions]

@@MrBrennanMatt Solutions usually stretch about a half to a full size, in my experience. I typically went down about 3 - 3.5 when I used them.

[@chad4853]

Best feed back : not to suffer to much : Key here is to have fun and only suffer a little ;) Thanks for posting Adam Ondra.

[@PaulMartinuzzi]

Road to Tokyo #18 Adam gets a pedicure 😂

[@matjan333]

není to houba na hřebíku?

[@pastrop2003]

it may work, sort of, for Scarpa and La Sportiva but don't even think about going 4 sizes down for 5.10 :)

[@xzysyndrome]

Or BD. I wear a 13US in street shoe...so I bought the Shadow's and Momentums in 12US to check them out...agony.

[@Moritz1868]

Doesn't work for Scarpa. At least not for me. I have 44 at my (Scarpa) streets shoes and 44/45 at my climbin shoes, depending on the shoe I use. Nowadays I only use Scarpa because they fit the form of my feet very well. At La Sportiva I used at 39 to 41.

[@again7pyms]

Doesn't work for Scarpa either ;)

[@TheBanana202]

Alex for scarpa i downsized from 44 to 42.5 and had huge trouble getting them on. but i didnt need any help from a plastic bag so maybe they were too loose after all :(

[@biancaconsoli8680]

I am getting into climbing and I wasn't sure about what shoe is better for me until I saw this video. Thank you Adam!

[@patrickbourne3819]

Did you end up getting a size smaller?

[@Simplesimple123]

I'm not even into rock-climbing but this guy is addictive. Great energy and drive

[@jimbojet8728]

So informative. As always with Adam, so honest too. I like this vid. Thank you.

[@deez_gainz]

Thanks a lot man! Great explanation! Is it possible to discuss chalk and other tricks to keep the hands dry?

[@RASSAMAHA]

use chalk

[@aleksandrshmigelskii451]

Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching smth like this for a really long time :)

[@zzzzz2582]

I'm literally on my way to the shop to buy my very first pair of climbing shoes. This video came literally with perfect timing for me.

[@xitaris5981]

2:40 same place Alex Honnold filmed Free Solo - not sure if it's the same route, but still mind blowing to think about

[@shinraninja]

i got same size as street shoe its still pretty tight and i like to stay comfortable and not have horrid feet after a looong sessions / i dont wanna be taking my shoes off after every single climb

[@springer2194]

9:00 i would buy a photo of this and frame it

[@TheGrundigg]

@@Pedro28725 The image quality from this video will look really bad as a big print. The original footage was probably 4k or higher and they could take a frame out of that.

[@jackname49]

9:01

[@brian8861]

i prefer 9:04

[@JudeyTeen]

I fully expected this to be the close up of his toes

[@Alygoola]

I prefer 8:55

[@leontiefmodell650]

One should really differentiate between the level of climbing shown by Adam, the shoes required for that (although there is certainly a wide spectrum of opinions regarding shoe size( and and the one done by the average Joe done in a climbing or bouldering gym twice or thrice a week. Please: Don't make the mistake and purchase your climbing shoes too small. It will potentially damage your toes to a level, where it will require surgery to fix them. And most importantly: Go to a local shop to try them on. Even then, you will have little to no indication about how they will feel on your feet after an hour or more. So take your time with it and take your respective feet shape and size into consideration. There really should have been a disclaimer about that, when he went from a 44 street shoe size down to a 39.5 in a Solution...

[@RajeshKumar-gj6qz]

Really appreciate your videos, It's like learning by genius.

[@weebig]

Adam, you are the man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@dogzillaisflopsfriend9677]

I’m happy that I got to the top of the rock climbing wall at the local park.

[@noenaame2856]

To really unlucky boulders this year Adam, and Tomoa really climbed well this season. Can't wait to see you in Lead in july, best of luck!

[@victorrannou-wetterwald9461]

Noe Naame how correct you were!

[@Finally_she_sings]

Needed to find some info about different shoes and this is super helpful!

[@beer77monster]

I could watch Adam climb all day long :)

[@loop_lops]

Wow! Thank you so much for your explanations!

[@secret5.]

I'll just keep climbing 12-13 and keep my feet intact and functioning properly. 😳

[@RandyFromTheMarsh]

How much fabric do you use for a scarf? as that is the longest neck in the animal kingdom

[@SmiteKite]

I like that last song a lot. If it is Sprint Edge - Let Me, does it still need to be released? Can't find the song

[@lucaserra2253]

Me too, it's a great song!

[@TheOneWhoSeek]

Downsizing shoes too much for begginers is a really bad thing. I really believe that up to the level of ~v2-v3 you should start with tight-fit sneakers and work on your footwork and strenghten up your toes. Then, later on you wont need to have such a painfully tight shoes. My personal best is 7c and my "project" shoes are Scarpa Vapor V size 41 while my street shoes are.... also 41 ;-) zero pain, and no issues climbing.

[@NickSinghSG]

Agreed. Sizing down as a beginner isn't a good thing. I was comfortable with sizing down half a size when I bought my first pair of climbing shoes. Many other climbers were trying to convince me to size down up to 2 sizes but I didn't think it was necessary. People forget that beginners climb V1s to V3s and shoe size hardly matters in those circumstances.

[@Michael_Schmatzberger]

i agree. my maximum is 7c as well and i mostly have climbing shoes that are either my street-shoe size or one bigger (for endurence training)

[@schmetterling2169]

Are you serious? Because I'll take the wisdom of a 7c climber at best vs the best climber in the world? Youve got to be just flattering yourself bud.

[@TheOneWhoSeek]

@@schmetterling2169 I would say it's wise to listen to many people and judge for yourself. Adam is talking about his own experience and let's be honest most of us will never reach his level. Also it happens so that people are quite divers in terms of physical caracteristics. I've just added another perspective which I think is also needed. Maybe add your own to this discussion? Question the idea not the person saying it.

[@kimediamond]

Adam also started a like age 6. Depends a lot on what age you start climbing. Young kids shouldn't downsize at all, because of bone development and the pace they outgrow their shoes. Whereas I started much later in life and didn't have any issue whatsoever downsizing my tenayas 2 sizes.

[@monkichiboi4003]

UR TOES AAAAA we need a climbers special pedicure spa in every climbing gym ASAP

[@rssvg]

Are your toes supposed to be flat in the shoe or bent at the "toe knuckles"?

[@lastditch727]

I don't climb, like barely make it down the driveway to get the mail, but this guys an animal.

[@NanduSamy]

Wow I can't find any of the songs in the song list. Does anyone know if they are restricted to Europe or...?

[@cous]

Adam's attention to detail in every aspect of climbing seems unusual. I do wonder if other competitors are changing shoes between boulders and even wearing odd shoes on some routes!

[@ofrinokrian4645]

only me have a regular climbing shoes, and training climbing shoes?

[@Bjorn_R]

I went from 45.5 to 44 on my first pair. They are finally broken in, but holy fuck did it hurt.. You just reach a point where you would rather suffer the entire climbing session, than suffer the sweet bliss of taking the shoe off only to put it back on

[@MariahMarkette]

Holy crap!!!! I am actually really shocked that his climbing shoe is that much smaller than his approach shoe. I have large, flat, and wide feet, so I wear mens shoes. My approach shoe and climbing shoe are the same size. My climbing shoe is a euro 42 (U.S. 9) and that is already a squeezer for me. A euro 40 is a U.S. mens 7. Holy crap!!!... well he is Adam Ondra.

[@mkultramann1798]

Thanks Adam!

[@ericman3234]

he might have said it but i got confused. i am a noob. I have never climbed again gyms in greece are rare and expensive as fuch so i will be doing some type of bouldering but also going to gyms some times. Flat shoe is what i need correct? Also. can someone recommend 1 or 2 choice just so i can get an idea

[@picasadeluxe]

What is better to stabilize the feet in climbing shoes, laces of velcro ?

[@Demidar665]

2:54, what if he dropped one shoe here ?

[@TheGumbyGuy]

I like how he says comfortable phonetically.

[@audrey1417]

Very informative!

[@sherrylock7376]

Every inch of the body must suffer in this sport of maniacs! lol ...only yesterday i was thinking of this subject of climbing shoes Adam so TYVM :)

[@thematrix3431]

I don't understand how people climb in shoes several sizes smaller. I have Theorys one size smaller and will struggle on a route BECAUSE my feet hurt and I can't put weight on them. I get off the wall, put on my Furias and instantly send the route because my Furias are my street shoe size. I've only been climbing 6 months so maybe I haven't built up enough calluses or destroyed enough nerve endings in my feet, but I don't get it

[@JakeYaks]

best shoe for smearing outdoors?

[@Geislaah]

I can't seem to find the last song that is playing in this video. According to the song list at the end it says "Sprint Edge - Let me" but it seems like it's not excisting. Please help!

[@SimpleTrax]

As someone who loves walking barefoot and whose toes are really far apart, monkey feet, climbing shoes seem and feel very destructive. Isn't there any other way to climb?

[@AdamOndra]

There is Charles Albert who climbs incredible stuff in bouldering barefoot, but some climbing styles are more difficult when you climb barefoot. In lead climbing, I think it is difficult to sustain the same power in your feet through the entire lenght of the route.

[@igyboo]

The fact that he goes down 4 sizes is crazy, I was in pain when I went down 1,5.

[@TheFirstone99]

if you wear 44 why not take 42 or 41 for climbing in stead of 39 ?

[@manuelgutierrez-ej1cn]

What is the song used in the outro ?

[@Mikulas-st9]

And what stiffnes of shoe is good for novice climber?

[@keney22LP]

Awesome video @adam. I knew that was because of my shoe that I didn't get this 7a... hahhaaha

[@luigimanuelli9030]

the kind of "advice" that could destroy the feet, and the whole climbing experience, of beginners. I think that there is very little to share between professionals and amateurs

[@GijsvanDam]

Interesting. I speed skate at a reasonable level, and the shoes used for skating should be 1 or 2 sizes smaller as well. I'm a 46, but my skates are a 44.

[@duncanpawson7724]

2:31 classic french free move.

[@zraybroske2416]

Duncan Pawson he already clipped, so the pitch was completed.

[@afcgunner3369]

I’m on the look out for a good pair of climbing shoe I’m an experienced climber with 41 year experience of climbing up and down my stairs every day

[@dawggydawgtown]

the intro song is ram ranch

[@dooday1]

I'm dying off laughter when he screams because it really reminds me the rabbids rabbit !

[@guillaumelaugerotte9360]

What about climbing without shoes?

[@martinmartin6300]

I don't know whether excessive undersize business helps apart from pro climbing maybe. Once upon a time I bought a pair of shoes which was too small for me. That was synthetic material so not much stretch to be expected over time. However, it was so painful that I had no sensitivity at all so my performance during climbing was actually worse; nit to mention that it was not fun at all. But even fir the pro climbers I wonder whether it is acceptable to wear such small shoes that it basically damages the foot over time. I don't think that this bit of more performance is worth the pain and potential damage. After all, is some pro these days really better than sone legend in the old days or is someone today simply better because of the top notch and extremely undersized shoes?

[@sapinva]

Was wondering about the non-matching shoes on Silence. After 20 years of 3 sizes too small, my toes don't look much better.

[@tavman11]

super helpful, thanks!

[@leonstarace3822]

8:59 whats the name of that places

[@rgl8109]

Nice Video

[@hreisho6375]

I understand why I'm bad, I miss the 15 pairs of slates at $ 120 of this guy !

[@balke7935]

no new testarossa... wonder why

[@stephannoname5976]

I have the same approach shoes. Love the model!

[@awkwardturtle77]

Lol I just bought the women's Solution because it was the most comfortable (least painful) out of all the ones that the store had, and had rubber on top of the shoe, which was what I was looking for. Glad to know it's Ondra's favorite.

[@tomasgonzalez5471]

What grade boulder do you consider intermediate like v6-v9 or 10 or what grade is it roughly and does anyone know what shoe I should wear I would say I’m around intermediate maybe advanced beginner and I do mostly boulder and a little bit of top rope does anyone have any suggestions

[@liowyingchen3375]

hi guys! need help! im looking to purchase the scarpa drago i measured my foot to be 26 cm in length, according to the sizing chart by scarpa, i should get size EU 40.5 - 41, will size 40.5 fit me perfect?

[@christophh9477]

Think you should be a bit more specific when aggressive small shoes make sense. I see 14 year olds cramming their feet into solutions with plastic bags and climbing 5c with footholds the size of their heads. I climb around 7a most of the time and cheap beginner shoes that dont crimp my toes at all work 90% of the time. On the few holds I cant stick i whip out my intermediate shoes that are 1 size below street and have yet to find a route that i cant send due to inadequate shoes...

[@JerreMuesli]

I purchased my first pair of beginner climbing shoes today and the first thought was when trying one was 'wow, these shoe sizes are all terrible'

[@meropa100]

Very interesting

[@bauclajf7538]

🙏

[@tillusmagnus3551]

Hi Adam, nice video !

[@davidsheffied]

I just wear stilts for tricky problems

[@izetassky]

he means physical properties

[@RisitasKEKW]

Cool

[@oliverkaspar5889]

Good video

[@travianer87]

I do not know why I'm here but that's very interesting

[@lukasbb]

My favorite thing in the world is how Adam says bouder probem

[@soundasleep6359]

Where's the video chatting about the magic dust otherwise known as chalk :)

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

His feet are as bad after 20 years climbing as mine after 42. But he probably has more miles lol.

[@youtubesucks1885]

Watching this while wearing some Unparallel Leopard 2s. They hurt my toes like crazy but its worth it

[@weedi2447]

Somehow la sportiva shoes doesn't fit very well for me but everyone else does use them.

[@sswwooppee]

He may be an incredible climber, but his foot-model career is ruined forever.

[@benjamind7290]

Yeah, more climbers need to get sponsorship from athlete's foot creme suppliers.

[@SJ-vc2tz]

@@benjamind7290 It's actually not fungus but the toe-pressure that (can) deform the toenails.. It sucks, have it aswell, still no normal toenails after a year of not-climbing..

[@Ghostwatchertim-_-]

I'm high as hell and this comment is 10x's as funny. Hahahahahahaha holy shit. Hahahah

[@SikConVicTioN]

Nah man, in the middle East there is huge market for feet models with busted feet like that

[@SmiteKite]

Not unless you are a foot model in The Hobbit ;)

[@mattmurdoch9843]

Its worth the fun you can have while climbing *cuts to Adam screaming in pain*

[@JimnyRicardo]

Muscles burning is just weakness leaving your body :D

[@Stupidiusity]

He's not screaming in pain, it's actually a way to coax out more strength from your muscles. Kind of like kiai in martial arts. It compresses the chest and increases core strength for short bursts.

[@TheKaryo]

@@Stupidiusity thanks always wondered what the use of it is

[@hakimESC]

@@Stupidiusity so the face he does while holding a tiny crack and trying to pull is the part of it? :-D

[@Stupidiusity]

@@hakimESC I guess that's part of it hahaha, yes

[@respiroavido]

Just thinking that probably for Adam "intermediate climber" means something around 8a-8b

[@AdrienBurg]

Intermediate is generally starting at 7b

[@killacondor]

@@AdrienBurg really??? I feel like 7a+ is the start of hard climbing and like 6b would be intermediate

[@BrannonGlover]

@@killacondor agreed. I feel like anything around 6 is more like intermediate. From what I'm seen and read, it would seem that 7's are more on the lines of expert-ish. I'm no expert, but I don't feel like I'm a beginner either. As much time as I've put into climbing, I feel like I'm intermediate, but everyone has their own opinion. To me, it would seem that anything below a 5.9 would be a beginner.

[@sebastianflynn1746]

@@BrannonGlover you're a beginner

[@javierbescos856]

@@BrannonGlover no offense but the fidelity of that article disapears when it says 8c+ at bouldering is not superelite, btw intermediate climber talking about just sport climbing, would start in 6c/7a, but this is just my opinion. Although I have 7c redpointed and I feel like a noobie compared with the "stardard" beasts you can find in any crag, but being realistic, 7a requires a good amount of work

[@evirs]

2:50 if you just finished a climb and are 3,000' in the air and the very first thing you do is take off your shoes.... they are probably uncomfortable

[@Lalaland.001]

Adam comes from the old school climbers, school of thought were you had to downsize like that because good climbing shoes were not really around. Magnus mitdbo 14 times norwegian champion route climber, has a really good video on it, were one of the lead designer of Scarpa actually says it's not necessary anymore because of advancements in the shoes industry and material. For those interested here is the link to that video kzbin.info/www/bejne/goOTan56fdR5m6s

[@bpospanov]

thx

[@TheMrSark]

Great vid!

[@yung_zucchini4137]

love you sark

[@darkraiman33]

Does Sark climb? Beast

[@TigerDuDe77]

To help everyone out: Flat & Stiff - Good for toe jams Downturned & Stiff - Good for verticals with small footholds; Outdoor and non-overhanging Flat & Soft - Good for speed climbing and lacking precision Downturned & Soft - Good for steep overhangs

[@demox3500]

Which one is good for bouldering?

[@thegreatzoom5073]

@@demox3500 If you're asking that am I right to assume you're a bit new to the activity? I'd recommend flat and stiff shoes, but you could just as easily do soft as well. If you want to build really good technique and make complicated, fun moves, get stiff shoes. If you just want to send and have fun climbing, go for soft. Downturned shoes are sort of specialized: they're great for some things but not so good for others, whereas flat shoes are perfectly fine for anything you'll be doing. Your shoes won't really be making a big difference until higher grades where you'd rather just swap shoes than train for months to get just a little better for one really hard problem.

[@TigerDuDe77]

Calvin de Clonie Mac Lennan probably flat and stiff for beginners, then flat downturned and stiff once you get more advanced to get a strong grip on those tiny footholds

[@jeygee3736]

Why would you want toe jams?

[@TigerDuDe77]

@@jeygee3736 when there's a crack in the wall, you'd want to jam your toes into it for a good grip

[@rastatryo]

As a podiatrist and a big fan, the struggle is real because for a pro climber or someone that really aims 7/8 level in bouldering, taking 2 or 3 shoesize under your regular one is important to feel everything and be totally confident in your feet... But god it is awfull for your feet in a long term use, articular, muscular catastrophy, once your toes are transforming in hammer-toes there's no way back but surgery, and once the nails start growing thicker, no way back neither so i wouldn't suggest more than minus 1 or 2 shoesize for regular climbers

[@rowanferwerda4865]

Do you think you could do some kind of stretching routine for you feet to prevent that or at least combat the effects a bit?

[@rastatryo]

@@rowanferwerda4865 You can and should indeed but i really doubt that few mins of stretching will counter the retraction of tendons escpacially flexor muscles due to climbing shoes. The main problem is that the more you wear it, the more your tendons retracts and your joint stiffen permanantly sometimes so there's no way back after years and years of climbing

[@tacticalchunder1207]

It’s also important to take them off between climbs when you start downsizing.

[@rastatryo]

@@tacticalchunder1207 you're absolutely right !

[@danugarbarino2291]

That's what I do. But it's mostly because I have my dad's feet and therefore I easily get ingrown toenails in the big toe. That's why he go to pair is that La Sportiva Mythos because he likes to T.R. but I prefer bouldering so I own a more aggressive pair. But I try and be careful not to agrivate the toe so much. And i always keep an eye on it. But do you habe any tips on how I can help prevent an ingrown toenail with bouldering shoes?

[@wheczshmatovich]

New to the sport, fell in love during the Olympics. The level of enthusiasm this guy brings out is overwhelming.

[@benschuster9792]

"It's worthit for the fun you can have when climbing" *cuts to belly full of bad berries of all routes*