Adding a Code 0 Sail and Sprit Pole - Pearson Triton Osprey Refit Part 23

Fabricating, installing and testing a retractable sprit pole for a code 0 sail on a Pearson Triton. Parts list:
Code 0 sprit pole and bobstay:
1. One piece 1.5" x 31.75" x .120 wall 316 polished stainless tubing.
2. One piece 1.75" x 9.5" x .120 wall 316 polished stainless tubing with 3/8" bolts or threaded rod welded underneath.
3. One sprit pole bobstay - 1/4" 1x19 wire with an over-center lifeline pelican hook on each end. Mine was 36.75" long with pelican hooks in mid-range adjustment. (Measure length after installation to confirm).
4. Bow U-bolt 3/8" x whatever length needed. Weld extra threads to lengthen if needed.
Furler:
5. One Profurl NEX 0.9 Flying Sail Furler.
6. One Harken Reflex Stanchion-Mount Double Cam Fairlead.
7. Three Harken Reflex Stanchion-Mount Fairlead.
8. Spliced double braid polyester continuous furling line 5/16 (8mm) x 27' loop (54' feet total line length).
Splice onto a Garhauer single swivel block with shackle 20-13 US.
Furling code 0 Sail (specs given to Fareast Sails):
2.2 oz white stormlite nylon, no logo.
Cut like a G Zero Gennaker by North Sails for sailing close to the wind.
Lightweight 3.5 oz white UV strip on starboard side with Tenara thread.
Low stretch dyneema or similar luff torque rope.
Actual finish sizes:
Luff: 34'3" plus 7" tack pennant.
leech: 30'8"
foot: 18'3"
Sail price = $1,272 US
We can be reached at atomvoyages.com where you can find articles on cruising and fitting out sailboats. If you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum where I'm a forum moderator and answer questions: plasticclassic...

[@chriscodrington5464]

Been studying the issue for a year examining several hundred designs! Yours is elegant in simplicity and being minimal blend right into the boat. I have a Morgan 24 of similar era and Im sold on your design...thanks for sharing it just made my day! ChrisCod/SV Windwitch

[@brucekratky7993]

I trust this lovely Triton has had its’ sea trials by now. Would love to see some video. No pressure just love to see the fruits of your work.

[@brucekratky7993]

The sliding and storable bow sprit seems a nice improvement over past designs. Always there for a quicker deployment.

[@sailingavocet]

indeed!

[@richadams3066]

Looks nice and tidy. You could have the spirit on a pivot that would add the side stays with the bobstay...allow you to have a longer pole, since it folds back along the gunwhale and project it further outboard for downwind angles. Like the mini trans-at.

[@webbrowne2291]

Great setup, you always do great work!

[@maryetdave]

Boats looking clean 👍🏼

[@captainmike808]

Excellent work sir.

[@svZia-Switch51]

Ooops, just saw the parts list in the description! Thanks again.

[@keeldragger]

Nicely done.

[@sailingavocet]

Epic. Great vid!

[@GoodkatNW]

Really enjoy following this refit. Everything is clean, tidy, and simple to use. For the retractable bowsprit, would it make sense to drill a 2nd hole and reinsert the pin when it is retracted (to keep the pin somewhere close, and also stop the sprit pole from unintentionally extending out)?

[@atomvoyager]

That would be handy and I considered it but the pin is large diameter so I decided not to weaken the tube with another large hole in the high load zone. For now we have a light line as a lanyard to secure it. It can also be removed and stowed in a cockpit locker.

[@GoodkatNW]

@@atomvoyager Got it. Thanks for the info!

[@svZia-Switch51]

Nice fabrication! You know that's going to keep her moving. I've been searching for a stanchion mounted cam cleat like you've installed but have not located one yet. Can you tell me the make/model? Thanks!

[@atomvoyager]

Sorry I missed this but for those still interested it is Harken part number 7359.

[@juan6168]

Alwais interesting vídeos. Congratulation.

[@constantinoslaliotitis7073]

Great videos. I always come away seeing something new. I have an old Potter and I need to replace a wooded cockpit locker hatch. The frame is all wood. After watching the Alberg 30 and how you covered over the compass hatch that was in the companion way I realized you really can do everything. It looked seamless. Do you have any suggestions? How do you go about creating a hatch and all the trim in fiberglass? Thank you!

[@atomvoyager]

It depends on how the hatch and framing is built now and how you plan to change it. Suggest you join the Plastic Classic Forum where I'm a moderator and post a photo and details of exactly what you'd like to do. I can answer you there: plasticclassicforum.com/forum/

[@roaxth]

Great job!

[@TheRickpfarr]

Great Video. DO you have any details or video available on your solar panel install.?

[@atomvoyager]

You can find it here: www.atomvoyages.com/cys/solartracker.html

[@tiborkiss9186]

Maybe you could add backing plates to the bobstay lower bracket screws.Are you sure the bobstay is not in the way when lowering/hoisting the anchor?

[@atomvoyager]

Normally yes, but I didn't add backing plates because the Triton has a massive fiberglass layup in that area and the wood beam also has thick glass over it so there's no chance of that crushing. The bobstay does interfere with certain anchors such as the Rocna which has a roll bar. The pelican hook quick disconnect makes it easier to get out of the way, if needed. Mostly, you just need to give the anchor a nudge and a twist to clear the flukes as it comes up.

[@fabienh3943]

Great work! Nice explanation. I need to support some rail too on my 25 boat and am hesitating on the support. Is teak that reliable on the long run?! Even a small piece like that? And would you treat it before? Oil? Epoxy? Thank you.

[@atomvoyager]

Teak will last many years here since uncoated teak decks, which are much thinner and get more wear will last 20-30 years in most cases. Oil won't do much. You could varnish it or seal it in epoxy resin but it will discolor and degrade after a few years in UV exposure so you should varnish or paint over the resin with a two-part paint to protect it. In that case, you don't need teak but could use another wood such as oak, sapele, or whatever and just take more care in sealing it with epoxy. Or you could use several layers of G10 epoxy/fiberglass board with or without paint. On this boat I coated the teak block in epoxy resin and epoxy glued it to the deck.

[@superformOG]

is the block that tensions the endless furling line a ratchet block?

[@atomvoyager]

No it's not a ratchet block. I felt the standard block with separate cam cleat would work better.

[@sharpiedory]

Hi James, curious how you use these code zero sails and how much utility you get out of them. What led you to choose the close-wind cut? Looks beautiful and like a lot of fun.

[@atomvoyager]

I use it as a replacement for both the asymmetric and a gennaker anytime the wind is under about 10 knots and I don't need to sail closer than about 60 degrees off the wind. If wind is under say 8k then it makes a more noticeable improvement. f you have a very large genoa then the code 0 is less useful. Since most sailing is done in light air it is often helpful but not essential for those who prefer to motorsail in light conditions.

[@benlindner5285]

I noticed you have a Spade anchor on the boat. I was interested in getting one but found that they were almost 2X the price of similar weight Rocnas and the like. Do you find that it is worth the premium? Thanks for your work James!

[@atomvoyager]

I had a Rocna on my boat for a few years and it worked excellent, better than the Delta it replaced, but the roll bar interfered with my sprit pole so I switched to the Spade. I've only used the Spade a few times and had no problem. The lead weighted tip is certainly an advantage in some situations and all the tests and user reports show it to be an excellent design that is at least on par or better than any other anchors commonly available. As to whether it is worth the cost, that depends on your budget. I wouldn't say it works so much better that it's essential.

[@benlindner5285]

@@atomvoyager Rocna now makes a model without the hoop called the Vulcan. This is what I am planning on getting. I originally wanted a Spade, however at nearly 2X the price of a Vulcan it put me off it. I will buy a can of yellow paint for $3 and spray it to look like a Spade and fool my neighbors!😜

[@atomvoyager]

@@benlindner5285 I also have a Vulcan but its largely curved shank made it flop around some on the anchor roller and lashing it down was awkward. It may work fine for you though. It seems the shape is optimized for certain bowsprits and motor yacht rollers.

[@benlindner5285]

@@atomvoyager Yup I have a bow sprit with a grate on top of it and the roller is mid way up the sprit so it is a tricky fit. Add in the sprit stay and whisker stays and it tangles an anchor up easily. While I love the look of the boat I won't buy another boat with a bow sprit, big maintenance cost, extra dockage charges, limited anchor stowage options. But you know that already!

[@hambamable]

Now the sails a few years old how has it held up and would you recommend Fareast sails?

[@atomvoyager]

The boat has only been sailed locally and not that much yet but they are holding up well with no problems. Yes, I still recommend them. Best is not to rely on any of these Chinese discount sail makers to provide advice though so you should research exactly what you want and specify everything when using them.

[@hambamable]

@@atomvoyager thanks for the update

[@adrianbaker9804]

A question- what type of fabric is the code 0 made from

[@atomvoyager]

It's 2.2 oz white stormlite nylon. I just added all the sail specs to the description.

[@adrianbaker9804]

Thanks

[@bobhamilton298]

Seems like a couple of bolts backed by nuts and washers doesn't provide much support for the sprint pole, even with the bobstay. What about lateral forces? The sail pulls sideways as well as up. What keeps the sail from twisting that sprint pole left and right?

[@atomvoyager]

I tested a similar sprit pole on my own boat many times, even having the rail under in gusty winds and it handles the loads fine. There is a fiberglass backing plate under the deck as well. The mounting sleeve is 9" long with three bolts that spreads the load well. The bobstay takes most of the load anyway. As for lateral forces, I kept the pole short enough at 20" beyond the bow and used 120. wall tube to resist bending to the side, which has proven to be sufficient so far. If you look at the much longer poles available from Selden and others on big modern boats they look much weaker to me but still seem to handle the loads.

[@cabincruiserlittlebigtime8445]

James I just want to say I love your writing. I have finished bound for distant seas and I just finished the next distant sea.. Towards the end of The next distant sea you mention the fourth and final book to finish the trilogy. Do you have any idea when that book will be released?

[@atomvoyager]

Glad to hear you enjoyed the books. I'm just over halfway finished with the fourth book and expect to have it available in 3-4 months from now.

[@cabincruiserlittlebigtime8445]

@@atomvoyager thats great. I will watch for it.

[@charlescooper3901]

What diameter is the Dyneema torsion rope?

[@atomvoyager]

I don't know because the sailmaker took care of that. But looking at the exposed ends I'd guess it is around 3/8" (10mm).

[@spyglassfreowestaus2733]

Niiiiiice !!

[@colbjallen8334]

Looks like it's gonna get shredded by your spacer