Adding a Lean-To on a Pole Barn Pt. 1 - Posts & Header Boards

[@muther_trucker9446]

Nice looking so far. Can you tell me the measurements of the lean to? It’s starting from under the gutter/eve to the posts? What’s the highest point to the lowest point? All I caught that it’s going to be 9 ft wide. Thanks a lot for sharing!

[@NealORussa]

I think we made it drop 1' in that 9' run

[@bluegrallis]

Pressure-treated wood will rot in concrete when exposed to wet conditions such as trapped water. In optimal conditions, pressure-treated wood set in the earth may last as long as 40 years. However, when vertically set in a non-draining concrete base, pressure-treated wood may last only a few years. I have a neighbor that can tell you what a PITA it is to replace those rotted off posts, to save the building.

[@NealORussa]

Appreciate your comment. I agree there are some better ways to set posts, but this is the way 90% of posts on every pole barn structure are set.

[@Formerlywarmer]

Yes it will I have some 4x4 post in concrete exposed that’s about 35 years old now and I expect the rot to get em any time now.

[@jordanscottsemrowstevens5542]

From reading the comments your 9' wide and 9" below the gutter on the end. that would make it 1/12 pitch correct? how is that for snow load? i live in south Wisconsin. Also if you said it in the video i apologize i have no sound. thank you

[@NealORussa]

Yes that is correct 1:12 pitch. This is in Kentucky. If you have heavy snow I would put posts closer together and probably add more rafters (these were 4' on center). I looked at another pole barn that was installed by a local contractor and we use the same post and rafter sizing and spacing. You might look around and do the same for your area.

[@warmblood58]

best way to square a corner post off a building so the two side walls are in line with the building? Thanks

[@NealORussa]

Run a string line along the existing building at least 10-20" back or from corner to corner then run it out past the building in that straight line.

[@lucasdoelger3558]

How did the concrete hold up? Was wondering what Benifits are there to pouring the mix in the. Watering it down vs premixing then pouring in the hole. Thanka

[@NealORussa]

Concrete has held up fine. Usually between ground water and moisture in the ground and rain and wetting the top it solidifies. I think lots of fence guys use this method as well. It's probably not technically as good as premixing but it works and it's easier.

[@brentpeters906]

Thanks for this video!! Well done and informative!! Do the headers also need to be treated, or just the vertical posts?

[@brentpeters906]

Also, what screws did you use to secure the headers?

[@NealORussa]

@@brentpeters906 thanks for the comment! The more treated the better for an outdoor structure. I can't recall what we used on this one, my father in law got all the materials. For the header screws we used 5/16" hss lag screws.

[@Rocco25.6]

Your lean to project looked like a real good job I was just wondering what is the approximate cost for the items you needed to do the project yourself

[@NealORussa]

Larry, this was for my father in law, he got some of the wood for free from a nephew who built a barn and had extra wood, and everything else was cobbled together besides the sheet metal and a couple posts. Granted this was during covid when wood price was sky high. I'd imagine just materials only for a lean to like this in 2023 would be close to $3k.

[@williamalvarado7810]

What’s the size of the lean ?

[@NealORussa]

Thanks for the comment! It was 48' long x 9' wide. Subscribe for more how to and DIY videos, there are 2 other parts of this lean to build on my channel!

[@michaelmurphy2028]

Wondering what you attach the ledger to? Is there decking on the inside of the building or are you simply going through the metal. I want to build similar to this and have only metal sheeting. Wondering if I should "sandwich" a ledger on each side? Any suggestions?

[@NealORussa]

It is not screwed into the metal only. Most pole barns have a header that runs from post to post and then the trusses sit on that header beam. That is what my ledger board is screwed into. It was. 2x10

[@michaelmurphy2028]

@@NealORussa any suggestions on how to attach to a completely steel building? I have iron supports and metal attached to that. I have thought about adding wood on both or maybe having to have post supports on both side of the lean to.

[@NealORussa]

@@michaelmurphy2028 is it a red iron building or like a carport type building with the galvanized square tubing?

[@mikebaker1044]

How did you know high to cut off the post

[@NealORussa]

Hey Mike! I don't know if i completely covered it in the video, but I knew i wanted the posts cut off around 9" lower than the lowest end of the gutter, plus the fall from gutter to posts. So I used my rotary laser and rod to shoot the gutter, then raised my laser reciever eye up around 14-15 inches, then used that to mark the cutoff elevation of all my posts. You could simplify this with a level and 8' board, then measure down the height you wanted it from the gutter, and level over to your first post, then level over from post to post or run a stringline.

[@mikebaker1044]

Thanks

[@jameshurd8657]

Thank you

[@NealORussa]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@HamBamNick]

I saw you add concrete to the post holes but I didnt see anything before hand. Did you add any crushed rock or anything before putting the post down in the hole?

[@NealORussa]

Hey Hammer, we didn't add anything below the posts on this build. On my solar panel structure i did add solid concrete blocks below the 6x6 posts. Never a bad idea to get the post out of the dirt.

[@adamaustin3373]

are those 4x4 or 6x6 post? and what is the spacing between them?

[@NealORussa]

Those are 4x4 posts. They are spaced 8' apart. I have two other buildings with lean to's that were built with similar spacing. Though, in this instance here, these are pretty tall posts due to the downward slope of the ground. It might be good to up-size them a little if they're going to stick more than 8' out of the ground.

[@atashaslagel9939]

How far apart are the posts

[@NealORussa]

The post are spaced 8 feet apart. Thanks for the comment!

[@parrotshark]

Hey Neal, awesome video. Would you tell me how the supports are anchored in the ground that you use to hold the posts level? Looks like a rebar contraption?

[@NealORussa]

Sure thing! Those are concrete forming stakes. They're metal stakes, about 3/4" diameter, about 2' long or 30", and they have holes staggered through the length of them so you can run a nail or screw through the stake. As an alternative you can make wooden stakes out of 2x4's by cutting a point on one end and hammer them into the ground instead.

[@parrotshark]

@@NealORussa I see. Thank you!

[@normanyatz8948]

Please tell us the measurements: how far apart are your post: how far apart are your 2x,s

[@maryhansen8352]

Hi, - subscibed - do you have a materials list so that I have an idea of how to purchase for my size of lean to? Also, can sheeting be installed on the long side for protection against weather, if so, is the installation different that the roof? Thanks

[@NealORussa]

Hey Mary, unfortunately I do not have a very good materials list, since i was just helping my father in law. Also based on your post spacing and lean to width would change the rafter and joist sizing and spacing. As far as the wall sheeting goes, yes you can defintiely install it similar to the roof, except the 2x4 "purlins" are called "girts" on a wall. And you can probably space them at 30 or 36" instead of 24" like the roof purlins.

[@gomrac]

Curious is 10 ft feet apart ok. Poles are 8 ft tall for a 8 ft wide lean?

[@NealORussa]

You need to figure your roof loading for your area. It needs to include weight of the rafters and roof itself, and any live loads such as snow or wind. Once you have that load, say it's 45lbs per sq ft you need to multiple that by 80sf. Since you take 8' wide x10' spacing. Then that value must be less than the vertical column capacity. For 4x4 posts, 8' tall, your capacity is 4,694 lbs for no 2 Douglas-fir-Larch species.

[@rozgon]

does it require permits?

[@NealORussa]

No this county didn't require any permits for a non inhabited structure.

[@rozgon]

@@NealORussa thank you!

[@JoeyGaglioti]

Never understood why people bury wood in concrete. It always rots out

[@sgerepairs5978]

Hi Neil Just subscribed. I have 2 questions. First I have a yanmar tractor similar to your kubota with a similar post hole digger. It only has a 6” auger though. What’s a good source for a bigger auger? Or can it be rented? Second. I’m planning on building a pole barn in the spring. 16x32 to store Equiptment. Are 4x4 posts with 8’ spacing acceptable? Thank you.

[@NealORussa]

Hey thanks for subscribing and the comment! I would look at tractor supply for extra augers, otherwise Agrisupply.com. I would get a 10" or 12". My 9 is as small as you want to go with 4x4's. Regarding the post strength. I have two buildings on my property that were built by pole barn companies. Both have lean tos constructed identical to this layout. We will also add 4x4 gussets on those posts, about 4' long at a 45* angle from the header board down about 2.5' on the posts. This is done on each side of each post, making a Y shape at the top of the post. The corners get them as well but one angles toward the building and one angles down the line toward the next post. Hope that helps!

[@NealORussa]

If you have a lot of snow though, you might consider 4x6's and a 2x8 header board at the top of the posts.

[@sgerepairs5978]

@@NealORussa Thanks for the reply Neil. I’m getting information this winter so I can build in the spring. I would think 4x4 done the way you said will be ok but I do need to consider snow. I’m in Pennsylvania and we don’t get crazy amounts of snow usually but every now and then we do. Thanks for input I appreciate it.

[@JonathanAshworth50]

What model kabota is that?

[@NealORussa]

It is a 2008 Kubota BX25. I have a few other videos of that machine working, so subscribe to my channel and check them out. Thanks for watching!

[@CT_Yankee]

Hope you're not located in snow country. Those metal buildings are designed to carry ONLY what loads its roof sees and there's really not any reserve capacity left for the added load imposed by the lean-to roof.

[@NealORussa]

Thanks for the comment! Our region doesn't see much snow, but building code requires a snow load of 15psf. That existing structure is built with 6x6 columns 8' on center with double 2x10 header boards. I have a similar span pole barn that was originally built with 8' column spacing and smaller 2x6 double header boards with a lean to structure. It was built in 2001 and has held up good. I'm hoping he won't have any problems!

[@Schism75]

That load is a down force load directly over the side wall , It’ll be just fine. Also engineered load ratings are generally a not the full live load limit. It gives them more peace of mind.

[@CT_Yankee]

@@Schism75 And you base this premise on what? As a licensed structural engineer I would question your statement "Also engineered load ratings are generally a not the full live load limit." Now, if you're an structural engineer involved in designing PEMBs perhaps you know more than I.

[@Schism75]

@@CT_Yankee ez turbo, I’m not trying to insult your intelligence. I’m only speaking from 25 years of PEMB erecting and have added many porch and leant to extension and I know for a fact load ratings on materials are not rated at failure point and you and I both know the height and width of his addition will never pose a threat to his building integrity. I’m not claiming to be any smarter than you, I’m just going off experience.

[@CT_Yankee]

@@Schism75 With steel structural members there are 2 items to be considered - yield stress and ultimate failure stress. Design capacity is typically considered to be stress at a level below yield stress. Failure stress is a whole other animal. Once yield stress is exceeded we are now in the plastic design category. In simpler terms, steel just continues to 'stretch' from additional load until its plastic limit is reached. So, if deformation is not a concern, exceeding the safe stress level based on yield stress can be doable, although I would never go there. If the lean-to addition is framed and connected to the existing steel columns (without modifying those columns), then all is likely good. Lean-tos are generally lower than the main roof so snow drifting become a concern where I live. Having worked for a PEMB manufacturer and having investigated failed PEMBs, I have little trust that any real excess capacity exists.

[@python357magnum100]

Like the video Hate the “music “ It’s not necessary !

[@NealORussa]

Thanks for the feedback! Unfortunately the timelapse videos don't record sound so I try to just add something during those points. Appreciate the comment!

[@vimo2732]

It sounds so familiar, I just can’t put my finger on it hmm 😅

[@fatboybiker]

Nice, except we only seen half the video,..

[@NealORussa]

I'll try to get a part 2 when we put the rafters and sheeting on!

[@NealORussa]

Part two here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goG7nYqFbN13pM0