Adding Noctua Fan to Walksnail Goggles X

I was looking for a way to fix the overheating issue with the Walksnail Goggles X and couldn't find a great solution. After much searching, I ended up designing what I consider to be a much better 3D printed fan mount to fix the heating issue.
Fan dimensions: 40x10mm (I used a Noctua 40x10 5v non-pwm)
Link to model: makerworld.com...
* Please note that I designed this in Bambu slicer and I had trouble exporting the negative spaces into a common file for importing into other slicers.

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

Update: I have now completed 80+ flights with no heating issues, the longest over 65 minutes with a plane.

[@pc_tech_gamer8360]

This is great. Thanks for sharing. Fits perfect. I have a fan on its way. I'm gonna try connecting fan using an external battery pack with on off switch. We'll see how that goes. Model fits perfect. I printed using A1 mini. Had to tweak some settings for my printer but was able to get it to print perfect. UPDATE 6-11: I admit I went overkill. I used a 12v Noctua fan with a 12v (8AA) battery pack, instead of soldering to the board. I love it. I just keep the pack in my pocket. The goggles used to get sooo HOT. Now they never even get warm. Tested with a few flights and let her set on the desk one hour. I'll update again after more use.

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

Glad to hear it!

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

Update: I have now completed 40+ flights with no heating issues, the longest over 45 minutes with a plane. (however keep in mind it is winter here at the moment)

[@g36pilot92]

Great work! Thanks for sharing!

[@Gianmarco11145]

Please can you give me the Amazon link of the noctua fan that was used in the video?

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

@@Gianmarco11145 Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown) a.co/d/04NQB74

[@dominicmarlowe1425]

You should make a version that offsets the fan to one side and has a module bay for uruav v3 and an analog module.

[@x13102543]

Thank you share those modify. I hope I can do same thing like you. I'm near the equator.

[@x13102543]

OR may I buy it?

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

@x13102543 If you have no way to get this printed locally, message me and I will send you the plastic portion with the heatserts installed at material + shipping cost. If you can find a local printer that would be the way to go, goodluck!

[@x13102543]

@@HeyitsmeEarl thank you, but how ? email or?

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

@@x13102543 Send me an email with your address here and we will figure it out :) "[e-mail]"

[@x13102543]

​@@HeyitsmeEarl HI I am sended.

[@ThePetersand]

That Fan is absolutely MASSIVE ! Why that big ? I have sometimes problem with fogging RH on mine but they never overheat and have 1st Batch too.

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

I happened to have that fan on me I use that for cooling lots of things like HDDs and sdds, you could probably edit the file to make a smaller one, please share it here if you do

[@derelictfpv]

Nice work on that man. Looks good. Is it staying cool now? My buddy pre ordered these goggles and they went black after 5 packs. Sent them back and his replacement pair stopped working after a few days of flying. Now they are sending him a new heatsink(he had the black heatsink already) and a new circuit board. He says he is going to fix them and get rid of them.

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

I have about 30 flights on these now, zero issues they run very cool :)

[@tito9107]

So the fan is an intake? Also, I have no Idea what to do with Bambu, I use flashprint5 and it doesn't show all the vents :(

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

Yes the fan is intake and the vents on each side remove the warm air. I've never used flash print so not sure I can help you there. If you are really in need I can print you off a cover, I sent a few overseas to people without printers so far

[@tikyuenhung]

Hi Earl Thanks very much for the sharing. Just that for the 3d model you linked, it looks different from what you shown in the video, only hv ventilation holes on one side of the cover. Any chance you can shore the one with holes on both side?

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

I just checked to make sure I wasn't crazy and uploaded the wrong file. If you are not using bambu slicer I have no idea how your slicer will interpret negative spaces. If you are using bambu slicer, if you hit the slice plate button it will create the holes using the negative space for you and you can then see the holes in preview. I'm definitely sure as I just downloaded the file and sliced it to verify :)

[@tikyuenhung]

Sorry Earl, I just view the file using the 3d model view on the website, probably why I saw the thing differently

[@animox6303]

Do you think its really needed? They said in the v2 version of them they added a hearsink stock and a bit better fans. Idk im new to all this so it looks like i could mess up a lot by soldering on that board and that goggles will cost me like 450 bucks. I‘d love to get ur opinion on that

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

@@animox6303 if you are not comfortable with soldering on small electronics I would not bother, this is advanced modification for sure. Personally I obviously thought it was necessary in the summer, but depending on where you live it may not be necessary at all.

[@jansen_fpv]

if it works nice 👌

[@4strokeRC]

I open the file in labs but, there are Grey shaded rectangle area's where some of the vents are? I'm not familiar with labs so not sure whats going on. Can I drag those areas so the vent will appear?

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

Great question, so if you click slice it's going to show you the model minus the grey negative area's and the vents will appear as they will be printed

[@4strokeRC]

@@HeyitsmeEarl Perfect, Thank you!

[@FamilyYoutube-ze6eo]

I see that you have TrueRC stubbies. How they compare to the default ones?

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

Very noticeable upgrade, without even needing to do a scientific range test I can say its roughly doubled the range/penetration. I put TrueRC patches onto my DJI Goggles 2 and to be honest I can't tell the difference, so these I would say are a good upgrade

[@DanoFPV]

Das a big fan.

[@HeyitsmeEarl]

we like em thiccc