Adding R410A Refrigerant To AC (subcool method w/TXV)

How to add R410A refrigerant to a home air conditioning system with a thermal expansion valve (TXV). Manifold connections, pressure and temperature readings and target numbers.
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00:00 Why a TXV Matters
01:16 Delta T
01:47 Opening Service Ports
02:18 Unit Start Up
02:51 Temp Probe & Manifold Readings
04:31 R410A Properties & Manifold Connection
05:27 Precautions to Adding R410A
06:15 Adding R410A Into System
07:02 Delta T on Airflow
07:36 Hitting Target Numbers
08:36 Disconnecting Manifold

[@swizzlestick4661]

I’m a fellow New Jersian. My dad was a plumber/ heat guy from the 60’s into the 90’s, passing away in ‘99. I never learned enough from him. Can you make a basic hot water heat video explaining the various components? The water feed, low water cut off, zone valves, expansion tank, circulator pump etc. Thank you!

[@JerseyMikeHVAC]

I made a bunch of videos over last winter that got into a lot of those topics that you can check out. www.youtube.com/@JerseyMikeHVAC/videos I'll get back into the topic again in the fall when it's more seasonal and do a video for you that covers the other stuff: expansion tanks, piping, etc. I got you.

[@jaimedpcaus1]

Haha. I got a little lost but I'll review it again.😅

[@nolanmcnicholas7430]

I’m a plumber who works at an hvac company and I’ve been learning hvac. A guy I would do condenser and evaporator coil swap outs with told me to open the high side when you’re introducing a factory charge into the system. Are you supposed to open the suction side first?

[@JerseyMikeHVAC]

Typically it is the suction side first, and many manufacturer manuals will suggest that. The reason is because if your line set is under a vacuum at the time, which it should be, the oil in the refrigerant will leave the compressor on whichever line you open first. On start up, that oil has to make its way back to the compressor to protect it. If you open the liquid line first, the oil rushing out of the unit to fill the vacuum will have to make its way through the txv and EVAP coil before getting back to the compressor, which can take a while and could potentially harm the compressor. When you open suction line first, the oil will enter into the suction line and will be pulled directly back into the compressor on start up. I suppose you can make an exception on heat pump systems if on start up you're going to run in heat mode first, only because refrigerant flows in the opposite direction. In that case opening the liquid line first might be the exception as the oil will enter straight back to the compressor on start up being in reverse flow for heating.

[@Balticblue93]

I love how you have the TXV mounted directly at the connection of the unit, but doesn't that make it impossible to remove that panel? Also, If you have to mount the bulb vertically the capillary tube must come off the top of the bulb. If the capillary tube comes off the bottom of the bulb the refrigerant charge in the bulb can drain out to the TXV power head rendering the bulb useless. This is referred to as a Charge Migration. Do you have any issues with that? Do you not use digital gauges or always analog? What vacuum pump did you use as I didn't see that in your video. You don't measure on a scale? How do you know how much you have put in a system? I use all Fieldpiece digital equipment and Bluetooth with my scale and all my various probes and tools. I also use the Imperial Tool 535C Kwik Charge Liquid Low Side Charger, so it doesn't slug the compressor. You seem to be an old school type of guy. I have never in my entire career ever heard of Keil as a brand. Do they have a parent company they are part of? I have been a technician a long time and own my own business, but never ever heard of Keil. How do you like them? Are they reliable? I sell Daikin/Amana and Bryant as my main product lines.

[@JerseyMikeHVAC]

"I love how you have the TXV mounted directly at the connection of the unit, but doesn't that make it impossible to remove that panel? " If you look closer at the casing, there are removable rubber grommets that extend all the way to the right side of the casing door. When you remove them, you can slide the panel left and remove it completely out of the way quite easily. You don't even have to remove the flue pipe to do it. "Also, If you have to mount the bulb vertically the capillary tube must come off the top of the bulb. If the capillary tube comes off the bottom of the bulb the refrigerant charge in the bulb can drain out to the TXV power head rendering the bulb useless. This is referred to as a Charge Migration. Do you have any issues with that? " I've talked to a lot of techs over the years about bulb placement and capillary orientation, and the consensus seems that in so far as the capillary issue, it is more relevant either with certain brands, with commercial applications or when the bulb is placed inside of the coil casing where it's more likely to be exposed to colder air. It might be best practice, but I don't know of any issues resulting from capillary mounts outside of the casing. Primary concern is more on bulb placement on the line in a horizontal application. "Do you not use digital gauges or always analog? What vacuum pump did you use as I didn't see that in your video. You don't measure on a scale? How do you know how much you have put in a system?" I have a whole set of digital probes I can read off of an app and I love them because I can have all my readings right there in one place without running all over the house. I don't have anything against the digital manifolds, I just can't justify the $700 or 800 when I'm just fine with the analogs and there are 100 other tools I'd rather have. I use on old 7cfm vac pump. Nothing special. It gets me down to 200-300 microns quite often. As for the scale, I use it when charging a flat system or a ductless off of the data plate. Or when on service calls for a recharge for billing. But this was an install and refrigerant cost for start up is figured into the quote. Trying to figure out exactly how many feet are in a whole line set to calc out a charge down to the ounce, on top of the factory charge (which I think is inconsistent from one unit to the next) is just guess work most of the time, IMO. I prefer to just let the readings talk to me. Keil isn't a brand. It's the company I work for. These are Goodman and Amana units. The tag is my boss's idea of advertising or something. I'm not a fan of the practice at all, but it's not my company, so....

[@Balticblue93]

@@JerseyMikeHVAC Mike - Thank you so much for nice and understanding response to my questions without taking offense or upset. I really will have to learn how to install the TXV and bulb like you have because I think that is ingenious and I have not seen that done before. Most are inside the cabinet on all the systems here in Colorado. I, change all systems that are pistons to TEV's for efficiency and functionality. I think that is awesome that the panel slides out and have easy access to the coil. As far as the bulb goes, I suppose it is just based on how I was taught and not everything taught is always gospel. It is good to know that the system works as it should and does not seem to bother or affect the way the system performs and is charged. I am definitely going to be giving that a try! I figured out must have digital gauges based on the temperature equipment you were using. I have the entire array of all the Fieldpiece equipment with a backup set of analog and a partial set of Testo digital equipment. I love being able to be inside working while watching my iPad or phone connected Bluetooth to my probes and measurement tools. I run the VP87 vacuum with the Trublu dual hose set to pull it down to 200-250 microns. I have some Appion hoses and adapters to charge the unit. I don't charge through my digital manifold but use the Fieldpiece scale and fire away. Sounds like having fancy equipment doesn't do much for me when knowledge from experience is better. Now it makes sense, Keli sure looked like the Amana/Goodman units I sell, but I was blown away there was a brand I haven't heard of. I guess your boss has a hell of a way to advertise! I wouldn't have ever thought about doing that. But not a bad way to advertise. Thank you again for your kind response and sharing of knowledge. I really do appreciate your time and the kind response. -Kevin Aim True Heating and Air, LLC Littleton, Colorado

[@H2ObarryField]

What do you do if the low pressure switch is in lockout? Lennox system has a really slow leak. Plan to add sealant and then charge the system. However, can this be done when the compressor is off, due to the lockout?

[@JerseyMikeHVAC]

Put the 410 tank in a bucket of hot water to warm it up for a little while. That'll increase the pressure in the bottle and could help push enough refrigerant into the low side to overcome the lockout.

[@H2ObarryField]

@@JerseyMikeHVAC Ok, thank you!! I'll do that. By the way, the system is a Luxaire Communicative system, not Lennox. Thanks again!!

[@alfredhines505]

I haven’t seen a filter dryer installed on the liquid line. May be it is there but I cannot see it.

[@JerseyMikeHVAC]

Sometimes they come preinstalled inside of the condensing unit. Sometimes guys will install them inside up by the air handler.

[@treechildu.s.a1953]

What temp prob you using to connect to your phone

[@JerseyMikeHVAC]

Using the UEI probes with UEI Hub app.