Adidas ROCKSTARS 2016 - Full replay

[@BrianLeung]

00:00:00 Climber Intros 00:05:22 Observation Boulder 1 00:18:39 Leah Crane (GBR) 00:22:56 Jessica "Jessie" Pilz (AUT) 00:24:53 Miho Nonaka (JPN) 00:25:05 Alban Levier (FRA) 00:28:43 Stasa Gejo (SRB) 00:28:57 Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) 0033:44 Mina Markovic (SLO) 00:33:51 Jan Hojer (GER) 00:38:53 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) 00:39:00 Tomoa Narasaki 00:44:28 Petra Klingler (SUI) 00:44:37 JongWong Chon (KOR) 00:48:49 Janja Garnbret (SLO) 00:49:57 Jernej Kruder (SLO) 00:55:17 Women standings after boulder 1 00:55:31 Men standings after boulder 1 Boulder 2 00:56:23 Leah Crane (GBR) 01:01:26 Jessica "Jessie" Pilz (AUT) 01:05:00 Miho Nonaka (JPN) 01:05:10 Alban Levier (FRA) 01:10:17 Stasa Gejo (SRB) 01:10:25 Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) 01:15:49 Mina Markovic (SLO) 01:15:59 Jan Hojer (GER) 01:26:51 Petra Klingler (SUI) 01:27:03 JongWong Chon (KOR) 01:32:06 Janja Garnbret (SLO) 01:32:15 Jernej Kruder (SLO) 01:37:25 Women standings after boulder 2 01:37:55 Men standings after boulder 2 Names will be excluded to avoid spoilers Boulder 3 01:39:36 1st Woman on boulder 3 01:44:43 2nd Woman on boulder 3 01:49:59 3rd Woman on boulder 3 (Oddly enough, audio cuts out during this part) 01:52:20 1st Man on boulder 3 01:57:25 2nd Man on boulder 3 02:02:34 3rd Man on boulder 3 02:08:12 Women Super Final 02:16:00 Men Super Final 02:19:40 Beginning of Awards Presentation

[@BoulderingTV]

Thanks!

[@BrianLeung]

Thank you for posting the video!! Keep it up! :D

[@KainCrowley]

Brian, thank you so much! I wish I had seen your comment before watching the whole clip! Next time I'll watch closely if the video isn't already commented by you! You're the MVP :)

[@PumpNationSol]

Brian Leung oooo

[@ripapa6355]

Holy sh*t, you're a god.

[@sp-fz1mn]

WOW im highly impressed with what addidas is doing! This is really nice to see how they are treating our climbers and setters! Climbing needed a name like this to represent it well! I wish them the best

[@Guruza]

Nice climbers, nice commentary. Good!

[@Liamlonsdale]

김지용 thank you! Glad you enjoyed it // LL

[@hyau23]

Tomoa is an absolute beast! He did the triple

[@obermannkind]

the reading of the boulders, the tension, the mental strength, japanese guys really going places this year!

[@Bladesmobile]

shauna coxsey is good at commentating

[@saraa6304]

Adidas rockstar is one of the best climbing competitions ever! I got too excited when I relized there was a new one 😂

[@firstnamelastname6071]

Just watching this now. Akiyo has definitely improved lots with the dynamic climbing, seems difficult to adapt when this style is relatively new in sport climbing.

[@bashmahs]

What a treat on a mondays evening before bedtime. Thanks!

[@pierrotmoon1]

Nice event ! Great music, great climing, great production ! Keep the climbing world shining !

[@AdHdEntertainmentLLC]

The music at times was spot on with the climbers attempts really got the juices flowing

[@marcelmulorz9170]

Every 2 minutes I have to chalk my hands as well, because they become so sweatty watching this.

[@TraciCuber]

Why can't IFSC have this quality of camera work? So frustrating.

[@BrianLeung]

IFSC relies on local crews. I assume there differences in skill level from location to location. I can only assume Adidas has a higher budget to hire better crew or fly in their own crew. ps. you'll also notice a dramatic improvement in camera work from semis to finals for IFSC events. The finals are always film pretty well.

[@BrianLeung]

The reason for poor camera work is usually because they want to follow multiple climbers. Editing and post production is another important aspect to keep in mind and that is almost just as expensive as a good crew.

[@psirenvct]

Well there is some difficulties as well, sound and videos... To be honest the quality is better on ifsc most of the time...

[@projecteer4498]

@@psirenvct The QUALITY is better, but the way they film is horrible. They will follow someone down as they jump off the top, then follow them as they grab their chalk and everything and follow them as they go to the next boulder instead of switching focus to the other person who is on the wall. They will also randomly switch from one person who is on the wall making really good moves to someone who is standing looking at their problem. It's really infuriating that we can't see the entire problem basically ever, while this will show the entire attempt, then immediately switch to the next climber. I think it is a lot easier to do good camera work with the IFSC finals format and this format, but the semi finals and qualifiers are unbearable and I will basically never watch them.

[@performingartist]

I'd say Liam and Charlie are about equal. I enjoy both of their commentary. Shauna though....she is completely fantastic!! Great event.

[@psirenvct]

timcthefilmguy thank you!

[@kaiwenlin123]

enjoyed the commentary! any chance of doing some ifsc events?

[@yohopostop]

"I know how strong Rustam's fingers are"

[@endTHEhegemony_Today]

🤣👍 I died

[@losFondos]

Why can't IFSC play quality music like this? Great camera work too

[@BahBahTheSheep]

who are the two commentators? is it shauna coxsey, and someone?

[@TheConorFinegan]

Liam Lonsdale? instagram.com/liamlonsdale/

[@Liamlonsdale]

Conor Finegan Correct!

[@Liamlonsdale]

BahBahTheSheep Unfortunately this video clipped off the intro where Shauna and I introduced ourselves! Hope you enjoyed it? LL

[@kim98677]

Such an exciting women's final, had me jumping all over lmao, so glad one of them managed to finish, with a cheeky beta copy as well

[@jusssimplycant]

what happened with the audio around 1:50:00

[@jusssimplycant]

oh I saw it in the description :( what a shame not being able to hear the commentary for such master sequence

[@ilovejesuschrist2581]

Shana Coxey is the best commentator!!!!

[@fangedladybug]

Good music from the DJ this time!

[@faridmusbah124]

Shauna 😍😍😍

[@phrobozz]

How do their hands stick to the gray wall near the top? Also to the colored things that don't seem to have any finger holds? Is the white powder sticky like the shoes?

[@capharnaum_urbain5732]

For the grey wall, most of the time, they find balance with the angle of their hands and arms, same things with the colored stuff (volumes) plus they use compression with other holds. And the white powder isn't sticky, but it keeps your hands dry as is absorbs sweat so you can grab better holds. Also, the holds are made of a certain material that isn't 100% smooth, it reminds render, so your skin kind of stick with it a bit more. Hope it helped you :)

[@haddockbamberg1759]

2:25:37 Manowar???

[@shortclimberbeta]

Why isn't shauna climbing here?

[@KayleighMuttschall]

Xunshan Ding Injured shoulder

[@thecore9805]

01:35:00 I don't think u need more chalk, ur hand is already 100% white

[@projecteer4498]

It's sort of a habit at that point

[@YOitsKEL]

so much pressure on that last boulder when you have the time pressure to beat the other competitor, not like other bouldering comps about tops/attempts. janja could probably have topped it faster if she did it slower and took a longer rest between attempts, but again time pressure throughout. jessie pilz could probably have topped it too. well deserved win by janja, topped all 4 boulders.

[@nemanjanemanjaa4551]

15:30 come on dude....

[@XxLuvverofMusicxX]

Men's final boulder looked much easier than the ladies final boulder. Many more holds and closer together. Posed no problem for either of the male climbers. May as well have given them a ladder.

[@brethollingsworth5257]

Good comp but 3 competitors on the first problem before I had to mute the commentator.

[@Liamlonsdale]

Best Hollingsworth Could you give some feedback? Always keen to hear what people have to say & apply it to future comps. You can send it to [e-mail] Thanks, LL

[@marktaylor7293]

man don't worry about it nothing wrong with you or Shauna. just that 5% you cant please

[@brethollingsworth5257]

Liam, Mark Taylor is most likely correct. I am probably overly critical of commentators. I enjoyed Charlie Boscoe when he hosted EpicTV but while he was an improvement over the guy he replaced commentating the WorldCups, I still tend to watch muted after a while. Shauna is a pro climber not a pro commentator so she did fine talking about the other climbers etc. On to the point, I generally dislike hyperbole and in this case I would say the excessive hyperbole broke me quickly. After each of the first couple climbers "you couldn't have a better start to a competition" was repeated seemingly ad nauseum for both. When Rustam fell off of the first problem, it was quickly pointed out "if ANYONE can figure this out, it's Rustam"......Really "if anyone"? How about the guys who qualified above him, any chance they may be as likely to figure it out? Again, just hyperbole and in my opinion commentators are suppose to be more informative and not just ceaseless hype people. Two cents in.

[@ЕленаЛебедева-ф6я7п]

JongWon Chon✨🏆💥💞💖✨

[@laius6047]

1:01:46 "left hand into that fucker" :D

[@projecteer4498]

It did say pocket there, but sure XD

[@valentinaburgos7097]

Shauna se la pasaba diciendo 'so close' xd

[@LostinYTblackhole]

Alex Megos isn’t even close to having the strongest fingers. The man can barely put all his weight on a one arm half pad crimp. When you have people like magnus mitbo who do that with extra weight. Alex just has good strength to weight ratio. Not bashing Alex, after all he is one of my favorite climbers, he just doesn’t have that strong of fingers

[@ArbitraryLifestyle]

Dang I really don't like seeing climbing in this light, personally.

[@calvinkrist5672]

ArbitraryLifestyle what do you mean?

[@ArbitraryLifestyle]

Calvin Krist I don't appreciate it becoming a mainstream (or more mainstream) sport myself.

[@chizaa8]

Would anyone like to give me $2000 to go to this next year? This might be my new favourite bouldering comp (next to Vail and Innsbruck world cups)!