Adjustable Setting Circles For Dobsonian Telescopes

[@bobrogers2977]

Excellent video. Clever and innovative approach to dob setting circles.

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Thanks. Glad you found it useful. Clear Skies.

[@Mainuh]

Another great video Richard! So many helpful tips packed in there. Going to looking into making a leveling/azimuth platform for my Z10 and printing the setting circles. Already have the digital gauge for my tablesaw, but the holder for that is brilliant! Great idea!

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Glad you found this one useful. Once you get the hang of it, it's really easy and accurate. I typically use Polaris as the calibration star because it give you more time to adjust without having to move the dob.

[@AdioAurel]

Brilliant! And the idea for the secondary cover is perfect

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Thanks, Adio. I've got a new design for the setting circle Az. I'll be posting it in an upcoming product review, Hubble UL16, later this summer. Essentially it's a ring cut out of thin fiberglass sheeting, or similar non-metallic material like formica sheeting. The printed setting circle is glued to the ring (silicone) and four "ready stick" magnets wafers are attached to the bottom of the fiber glass ring. A round, slightly larger, sheet metal base it attached to the underside of the rocker box by removing the three rubber feet. There are four equally spaced allen head screws (protruding up above the sheet metal) to keep the free floating azimuth ring centered. Adjustments are made by simply sliding the ring around with the magnets providing the right amount of resistance. No need for the dial or azimuth marker but a leveling base is still required. Clear Skies!

[@russgenzmer8326]

@@DakotaStarryNights There is no PDF print out of AZ wheel like you mentioned. How do I get one

[@sergiocantoli5783]

Thanks for the tutorial! I'll do it on my home made dob.

[@skyemac8]

Hockey pucks for feet, brilliant!

[@nordmende73]

Thanks again!

[@yellowlynx]

Your video inspired me to make setting circles for my dob too !

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Cool! It's amazing how well they work once you sync on a star. Check out my new video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWndmJ6VfsufnpI for an improvement on the scope leveling platform. Simplicity is a beautiful thing. Thanks for posting.

[@yellowlynx]

@@DakotaStarryNights I found a resource to print huge 360 degrees template, up to 30 inches in diameter which I can print out for the base platform

[@yellowlynx]

@@DakotaStarryNights This is my plan. Feel free to comment. My dob is a Meade 12" Lightbridge. I have to check again the exact measurements - it has two concentric round base - one which as three bottom stubs is to sit on the a stable surface (ground or my movable wheeled trolley), the other is for the scope to turn freely on azimuth (the rocker box, mirror case is on it). The round base is 25" in diameter. I planned to print a large protractor (28 inches outer diameter, 20" inner diameter), so that the degree dials will be visible outside the roundbase, and I will use some form of attachment to attach it to the fixed base board (from the bottom), but it will be movable － this is to allow me to point the 0 degree mark to True North. (The one I planned is to tape a long little chain on the printed protractor, stick 3 or 4 magnets at the bottom of the base board so I can adjust on the field to have the dial align with True North). I use a compass app to find true North and align this dial first (after leveling the base). The upper (turning) base I will have an arrow printed on it, aligning to the direct front (like the direction arrow on a base place compass), plus a bubble level. The secondary housing is made of rolled steel, so I can easily attach a inclinometer (with magnetic base) to it - all I have to do is to find the spot where the inclinometer is properly leveled (the scope altitude angle is 0 degrees) and make a mark so that the next time I will place it on the same spot.

[@DakotaStarryNights]

​@@yellowlynx I had to read it a couple of times but I believe I understand what you're getting at. I'm currently working on putting setting circles on a Hubble Optics UL16. Your plan is a good one and similar to what I have worked out for the UL16. Here's a couple of things to consider, if you haven't already. 1.) I'm assuming the protractor's 20" inner diameter is to allow the "Azimuth ring" to clear the base board feet in order for it to rotate freely. Good. 2.) But how do you intend to keep the ring centered? The magnets will hold it up, yes, but not centered without some modification. 3.) I would favor sheet metal over a chain. 4.) Better yet, take the printed Azimuth sheet and cut it into a ring. Cut a ring of the same size from thin plastic, corrugated plastic sheet or fiberglass material (a gig saw with a metal cutting blade works good on fiber glass) and glue the printed azimuth ring to it using silicone, applying the glue to the fiberglass ring and laying the paper on top. 5.) Attach three or four self stick magnets ( available at hobby stores) to the bottom of the plastic ring. 6.) Under the baseboard attach circular piece of sheet metal cut to an outside diameter of 28.5". Lay the azimuth ring on top. The magnets will hold it in place and the "metal shelf" will keep it centered. Hope this helps. Dakota

[@yellowlynx]

@@DakotaStarryNights Thanks for your tips. Yes, the azimuth ring is to clear the base board feet to rotate freely. The metal ring shell idea is good - it will be like a "railing" to hold the ring in place and keep it centered, and I figured it does not have to be a complete ring. I am thinking of making three or four pieces of metal strip as "arcs" at three or four sections of the circle (spaced at 120 / 90 degrees apart, and line them out on the rim of the board (I think you can picture that). The azimuth will have 3 or 4 magnets on it at exact positions to stick to the rim make the azimuth ring centered. Usually when I try to position the ring, to point the 0 degree mark to True North, it will already be reasonably near True North and all I need to do is to adjust back and forth a few degrees.

[@sochnyui]

Greetings from Russian astronomers. Saint Petersburg)))). During the summer white nights. And mosquitoes

[@AdirondackAstronomy]

Looks like so much fun meeting up with other astronomers in a dark sky for some astronomy. I need to find a group of people like that here in the Adirondacks of NY. Great video, and thanks for the info! Also, any reason why you wouldn't zero in the altitude with Polaris?

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Yes, zeroing in on Polaris, if available at your latitude, is the best option. It doesn't move as much. So it's easier to keep centered when doing the calibration. Thanks for pointing that out. Clear Skies

[@robertfrost3388]

Hi Richard, like your videos, very helpful for the astronomy community. Quick question, how far do you travel from Rapid City to get to the Bortle 1 Dark Skies?

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Hi Robert Frost, my favorite poet by the way. :) We're lucky enough to have a Bortle 1 dark site about 2hrs away. Bortle 2-4 are under 45min

[@WetaMantis]

Very good! What is roughly the average offset in degree between the object you want to find and your position using the setting circles?

[@DakotaStarryNights]

If you held out a pizza at arms length the target would be somewhere within that circle. If you've achieved a good alignment, Polaris is best, then I've often found it already in the an 82 degree eyepiece. (For others who may be reading this be sure to check out the updated version of the Az setting circle here: Adjustable setting circles for Dobsonian telescopes (Updated) - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXqsgKdol7OXl6M (Starts @ 5:48 in the timeline.))

[@WetaMantis]

@@DakotaStarryNights Sorry but your link is dead. There is a Updated version?

[@DakotaStarryNights]

@@WetaMantis Thanks for the heads up. Try it again.

[@WetaMantis]

@@DakotaStarryNights Thanks np :P

[@jmac6248]

Am I right in assuming that technically, you could get by with either Altitude OR Azimuth, and not need both? Adjust your altitude, for example, until it's on the money, then slew left to right until you find it in a wide view eyepiece?

[@DakotaStarryNights]

In theory yes. Providing one or the other is dead on and you don't induce an error, up or down, when moving it. Way easier to have both as it narrows it down a lot and reduce errors in one or the other. And for the price I don't see why not. Thanks for posting. Dakota

[@russgenzmer8326]

I can't get access to your PDF file to print out the AZ wheel. Where do I get it

[@DakotaStarryNights]

No problem. It's up top in the video description. Click on SHOW MORE. Clear skies!

[@nobody2021]

"unwanted damage" as opposed to wanted damage

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Well, yeah, got me there lily-liver. On the other hand... folks have on occasion been known to destroy or burn stuff up to collect on the insurance, "wanted damage". :)

[@nobody2021]

@@DakotaStarryNights that is true

[@xjstwr]

That sure ain't mdf. I worked in an mdf plant. That is plywood.

[@DakotaStarryNights]

Sorry, but I've built custom furniture for a living and I can assure you this is MDF. I'm sure you know plywood has layers of wood veneer that are glued together. The MDF board shown here has veneer only on top and bottom with Medium-density wood fiber in-between. In all fairness, the misunderstanding is probably due to you not having the board in hand for actual examination. Thanks for posting. Dakota