Never Forget Another Lighting Setup - Flash Power Notation | Mark Wallace

[@alexanderpons9246]

What a great Master Class on Light set up, thank you Mark Wallace! We are so fortunate in current times as we have access to such great videos with valuable information, thank you ADORAMA for this wonderful channel so we all can make great use of all the Photo Gear you have on your Store!

[@tommydaynjer5334]

This is a fun way to remember! What I personally use is my phone camera to take several shots of the setup, then import the photos into GoodNotes 5 and write all over it for distances, flash powers, etc!

[@markpatterson2718]

Thanks Mr Wallace you were one of the 1st tutors I had with Sean Tucker

[@TimothyJohnLukeSmithPSA]

Mark, this is amazing and Teresa is an incredible model!

[@Maz-2393]

Amazing tips Mark! Thank you so much.

[@andyv6127]

That was super. Well articulated and enjoyable to watch

[@tgchism]

Great video! It all makes perfect sense! Thank you! Oddly enough besides photography I bake sourdough bread and this all works very much like the bakers percentage. In that you know the weight of the flour and all other ingredients are a prescribed percentage of the flour. Allows you to write it as a formula along with a process description. As in your set up it allows you to get the same results every time!

[@diegoeidelman]

Thank you Mark! I'm use to record a small video for most of my studio shoots. Sometimes I take wide angle shots. That's a good idea and very handy. I will start adding the settings in the wide shots that I keep in the sessions folders. Cheers from Buenos Aires!

[@mengkehsiehphoto]

This is a great video. It's very important to document everything, so photographers can save time in the future! Thank you!

[@ipedder68]

Fantastic video as always. Love your work. Thank you for doing what you do 👍

[@Karlita91100]

I love this and I do it too. I also take a picture (with my iPhone) of a pull-back of my lighting set up, and include a photo from the session with that lighting. I’m a beginner and that makes it much easier for me to visualize.

[@luisarevalo6112]

I photograph with continuous lights and planning to include one speedlight (but not a light meter, keeping with in a budget). Going forward I'll be making notes of lighting ideas and then include the results into the notes! Your video has been very helpful, thank you.

[@mhc2b]

Thanks Mark for a wonderful way of remembering. Using the key light as "ground zero" is perfect!! Taking wide angle pictures of the set up and model is icing on the cake! As a "side note," I see lots of " digitally-created diagrams" being used by You Tubers, but cannot seem to find where to find these online. Your method would work perfect with some of these preset diagrams - just fill in the blanks so to speak.

[@albertr915]

Awesome video, and awesome information. This is something I will start doing myself. Mark thank you for this great video, and great information.

[@LongTimeTTFan]

Thanks, Mark. I tried this and it works IF all the elements remain the same each time: the same light modifiers, from the same distances (subject, lights, camera, background, etc.), and the same background color, etc. If I change one, I may have to change others, sometimes, significantly.

[@RonK]

Great, thanks. I think, there's no need to press the memory button, since this (and its memory-places) is used to average different lights or levels of brightness. In order to get Delta-Values, just measure one light, then toggle the AVE/dEV-button once, and from here all subsequent measurements are shown as delta EV. To begin a new series (measure an other initial value), just toggle the AVE/dEV-button again. You don't need the memory-function to display differences

[@AtlanticPicture]

i take a pic of the setup with my phone and add notes on the pic. (super easy w a Note ;))

[@focus1ist]

Great!

[@craighousesounddesign5944]

Same idea as writing music with I IV V. Then it doesn't matter what key your in. Great idea, now I just need to save up for a light meter. :-)

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

exactly right! That's the perfect way to think of this.

[@DylanRichardson841]

I have a Sekonic L-308s and it does not have the Delta EV option. Is there a way that I can calculate it using this light meter?

[@faryapirbazari5861]

It's the story of amateurs like myself; we don't have the luxury of delta(EV) with 308. So go with f stops, easy. Select your key (f/8 for instance), then if you want the fill to be -1 adjust it for f/5.6, background at -2 should look for f/4, etc.

[@aljawad]

My technique is very similar to yours, Mark. The difference is I take note of the locations/displacements between the lights and walls on graph-paper type logbook.

[@larryb0315]

Hi Mark, I just saw this video! Thank you for this information. I am looking at getting the Sekonic L478U meter from Adorama, does that meter a have Delta EV Mode like the meter you are using in this video? Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

It does have the delta EV feature! Great meter.

[@AV84USA]

Gary Bernstein was showing this in his books since 1984. The EV is useful, but aperture is MORE useful, especially with people photography.

[@jpdj2715]

I'm with Mark on EV. If you shoot different lenses (formats) then it gives an abstraction that is very convenient.

[@rejeanbrandt]

A backwards approach is to do your setups virtually in set.a.light 3D without having to be in the studio, the print out the diagram for when you are in the studio.

[@otavioleitefotografia]

Cool!

[@rphotographer]

is your meter calibrated to your camera?

[@shiralikerim1781]

👏

[@jd800lover]

@5:14 is F/14 and not F/13 (1/3 of a stop less light)

[@RimantasLiubertas]

Distances are extremely important. Without them all this in vain.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Just write it in. Very simple to add it.

[@andreasblohm9173]

I'm sorry, but after a year I didn't remember me how far away the kickerlight was from my subject.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

just add the distance to your diagram. 2 seconds and you're done. :)

[@narendra672]

👍

[@Expprods]

Why such a complex setup, I do notations of my setting using audio recording always try to keep things simple. You went too all this complexity just to prove a simple point “Always Record Your Settings”.

[@Justin-hn9uv]

This is a cool approach. I think the idea of having and taking field notes is a bit of a lost practice, unfortunately.

[@fostervf16]

This is ok if you plan on not moving your lights. As many said here distance is huge factor too. Without knowing exactly how these 5 lights were set up, including all distance measurements, this whole technique is almost worthless. Even though you mentioned this, you did not go onto it. And it's just as important. So I would make a follow up discussing this. Or possibly delete this one and start over again.

[@mhc2b]

As Mark did point out, if distance is important, simply measure, and write down the distance from the subject to each light.

[@nmelcam1]

Or you could just put in the actual value of the lights e.g. Key 1/8th, Fill 1/16.3 Kickers, 1/32 and snoot 1/64 and then in the remote use the Select All button (at least the Flashpoint R2 Pro Mark II does have this function) and when you change the Key light all others change respectively in value :-) If you change the Key light to 1/4th power all other will increase by the same amount and vice versa, if you lower it to 1/32 power all others will go down also. One button, no math problems to solve, the remote does the math for you, hurray LOL