Using an $25 Gotek floppy emulator in place of a 8" floppy drive

[@Dinnye01]

Adrian, don't worry about taking the plastic stiff wrong. We are all here for the electronics. Everything else is just a bonus!

[@brookerobertson2951]

He need to apply thermal paste in next video to really get the comment section going… lol

[@fattomandeibu]

Yeah, my Amiga 500 is a permanent "fake tan" orange colour now, and IMO, that's just character. It shows it's had a good 30 years.

[@desiv1170]

Another great feature of the FlashFloppy firmware is that if you manage to install your cable the wrong way around, it will display RIB (for Ribbon; it can look like R16) rather than F-F to let you know! How do I know that?? Um.. er. I um... read about it online... Yeah, that's it... ;-)

[@robertbruce7686]

Yeah right (wink)

[@TechBench]

The series is not "dragging on" ... I'm eagerly awaiting the next installment of the season! 🙂

[@mvickers03]

Yes! I’m here in 2023 and just watched them all in the same day. Thoroughly enjoyed it. You learn a bit more every video you watch, regardless of if it’s out of your skill set.

[@sikedipuuhja7376]

Adrian, you should have known: the trs80 and the c64 are not compatible. No wonder the stud you improvised snapped off,

[@twocvbloke]

The machine deciding to conk out at the end is a perfect example of Sod's Law, anything that can go wrong will go wrong, especially after you've put it all back together after doing major repair work... :P

[@Frank-Thoresen]

@@laserhawk64 "Murphy’s Law is a humorous American axiom that states anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. The term Murphy’s Law was coined in the early 1950s during G-force tests by the American Air Force. One version of the story says that an aerospace engineer named Captain Edward A. Murphy installed a key sensor backwards, skewing the test results. Another version of the story states that Captain Murphy did no such thing, that the reason he is associated with Murphy’s Law is that he frequently expressed the idea that anything that can go wrong will go wrong. Eventually, other members of the team began to refer to this sentiment as Murphy’s Law. A third version of the story comes from John Glenn, stating that Murphy was a character in Navy educational cartoons cast as an incompetent mechanic, leading to the idea of Murphy’s Law. Murphy’s Law is by far the most popular of the humorous laws dealing with things that go wrong. Sod’s Law is a British axiom that is somewhat similar to Murphy’s Law, but with a twist. Sod’s Law carries a sense of being mocked by fate. Sod’s Law is related to the idea of the unlucky sod, an average person who has bad luck. Sod’s Law first appears in the 1970s. Finagle’s Law is Murphy’s Law with an addendum, it states that anything that can go wrong will, and at the worst possible time. The term Finagle’s Law was coined by John Campbell Jr., the editor of Astounding Science Fiction in the 1940s through 1960s."

[@samuelcolvin4994]

There's one I've heard that goes: "anything that can go wrong will.... Usually at the worst possible time," "BUT if you wait long enough it'll go away...... Having done it's damage...... And if it was bad it will be back". I think this last one is from the late '70s.

[@dungeonseeker3087]

You broke the cardinal rule of tech, you put the case back together before you tested anything. The case curse strikes again 😂

[@CherryKirktown]

The silvery paint on the TRS computers was very thin. It would wear quickly. Radio Shack sold spray cans of the stuff for touch ups and refinishes. We just got used to seeing the flat gray plastic underneath.

[@jeffreyphipps1507]

My guess is that one of the "diagnostics" put a bad value in parallel/serial ports. It might take a few hours for the machine in off state to drop the wonky value.

[@Calphool222]

I restore TRS 80 machines. I've done several full restores on Model 1s, Model 3s, and Model 4s. I haven't had anybody ask me to restore a Model II/16, but if the other three systems are any indication, TRS-80s are basically just like this. You fix one thing, and something else breaks. So you fix that, and something else breaks. When you restore a TRS-80, the algorithm seems to be: 1) Try to boot and observe symptoms. 2) Take apart, get a schematic, identify likely candidates for problems, replace components. 3) Go back to step 1. This loop continues until *eventually* the problems are sorted and you can break out of step 1. The disk drives in particular seem *super* finicky. Once you get one working, you just automatically start devising all kinds of voodoo superstitions and behaviors hoping to keep it working.

[@lohphat]

I have my Mod I from Dec 1979 w/KB( +LC mod), Expansion interface, 4x floppy drives, and "Line Printer". I don't dare plug it in as it hasn't been powered since 1988 or so. What's a ballpark for getting it back running?

[@8bitwiz_]

@@lohphat If I tried to get mine running again, I'd probably worry more about the EI. I didn't have one of the "special" cables, but when I stuffed it with 32K of RAM back in the day, I had to drop the power supply voltage to get it to work properly! (I don't remember exactly, maybe 4.5 or 4.75 volts?) Displaying the EI memory with DOS DEBUG was like looking at a random number generator when the power supply was set to 5.0 volts. I'd rather just have a mini-EI with static RAM and port emulation. What I actually did was catweasel all my floppies around 2008, and went full emulation.

[@redace001]

Got any links to good sites for Model Is? I have all the parts Adrian used, (flash floppy/gotek), I just need some guidance on conencting it all up ,and what images to use to get her going again.

[@burnte]

You have bench PSUs, so you could replate connectors with nickel EASILY right there on your bench. It's INCREDIBLY easy, just put in a fan for ventilation when you plate and don't sit there, it takes only a little time and you'd have brand new looking connectors. It's a lot easier than it sounds and people get very impressed with your results. :D

[@burnte]

@@lucasrem1870 if his desire is to restore the classic computer, then running an emulator is not a solution.

[@brentboswell1294]

As I recall, on the silver TRS-80 cases, it's silver spray paint on top of ABS plastic. That's one of the reasons that Tandy moved the entire lineup to ivory ABS plastic. The color on the ivory cases was impregnated into the plastic, and didn't scratch the paint off when you moved things over the case, as they got lots of complaints about the finish getting scratched from consumers.

[@questionablecommands9423]

12:59 It's moments like these where I've learned the _hard_ way that I need to bust out the mantra, "Don't be lazy, Alastair." and do the disassembly so I can put it together right. Every time I try to take a shortcut, it ends up being more hassle than if I did it the long way, I get cranky in the process, and I often break something as a result of getting cranky.

[@stevesether]

Curious that the internal design is so bad. This machine originally sold for $3450 in 1980. Which was a hell of a lot of money back then for an 8 bit machine. Compare that to the Apple II which sold for $1298 in 1977. Or compare it to the IBM 5150 in 1981, which sold for $1565. It's not an entirely fair comparison, since the Apple II didn't include a disk drive or monitor, and the 5150 didn't include a monitor. But $3450 was still a LOT of money for a Z-80 machine. Probably the more direct comparison was the Osborne 1, which was also a Z80 machine with built in disk drive, monitor, and a detachable keyboard that sold for $1795. So the TRS-80 II was a strange outlier that was crazily overpriced. Oddly, I think the high price may partially explain the bad internal design. When you design something to be cheap, it has to be inexpensive to put together. That means the designers have to put more initial work into it to make it easy to produce. The same isn't true when the thing can sell for a high price. You don't really have to put a lot of thought into how it's put together. I can't imagine how much time it took to assemble these things in the factory!

[@brentboswell1294]

I always loved what Jeremy Clarkson said in top gear: "Hand made means that the door handles will eventually come apart in your hand" (in reference to classic Rolls-Royce cars) 🤣

[@jk180]

Great stuff so far Adrian. This machine is a survivor (barely), and it makes me happy to see another one saved from the landfill/recycle center. I know you'll figure it out. I had an older TRS-80 asa kid for my first home computer. Keey doing great stuff my friend.

[@Shamino0]

I remember reading in Radio Shack catalogs that they sold a 5MB hard drive (a giant 12" monstrosity) for the II/12/16 series of computers. I don't know if it used that floppy controller port or if it used a new port via an additional card in the cage. If you ever run across one of these (or even just information about them), it would be a great addition to this series. I haven't yet gotten all the way through the series, but if you haven't already mentioned it, I find it interesting that the II/12/16 systems could actually run UNIX. Radio Shack sold "Xenix" for these. I assume the hard drive expansion and lots of memory expansion was required for that. I also remember reading (in the catalogs) that you could connect serial terminals to each of the serial ports and let three users all log in at once. Way way ahead of its time, and incredibly impressive for a Z80-based computer. (Correction: It seems that Xenix requires the 68000 processor board. I think that was an option in the II/12 but was standard in the 16. Still way ahead of its time, but something you won't be able to try out on your II as it currently exists.)

[@michaelelsy2209]

Been really enjoying this series.

[@physnoct]

For the rust residues, I would try some vinegar or CLR product.

[@dl8cy]

How long was teh duration of the time-lapse part? 2 hours?

[@alexandermaasland3494]

As usual I loved this work you did on this machine :) keep it up Adrian! Hopefully we get to see some working software on this machine in the near future

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

I wish I could remember the specifics, but I remember back in the 80's someone figured out that a near-perfect match for touching up scratches was a Mercedes-Benz silver color code.

[@robr7116]

I used GM 64 on several Mod III's (same color as II's I believe)

[@XylaIX]

MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) works way better for welding ABS than acetone. It's a bit harder to find and more difficult to work with (more toxic, best to use outdoors), but the results are well worth it. It won't do that weird thing with the whiteness and cracking of that tab you tried to weld, it'll just liquify the plastic at the joint and reconstitute as contiguous solid plastic.

[@vwfanatic2390]

There a lot of parallels between salvaging a car’s finish and the finish on some old tech, it’s never going to be perfect, and it shouldn’t be. It should show it’s age honestly, without being just dirty. Great job, neat to see an old Trash80 looking so great, and still working.

[@jgthhcfbgyujvfr6025]

as a professional automotive refinisher i would sand out scrathes with 500 grit and prime it, sand it smooth with 800 grit and spray it very light 4-5 times with a silver rattle can and let it dry completly between coats...

[@rmcdudmk212]

I was thinking the same thing 👍

[@adilsongoliveira]

So do I. I think repaint would be easier and give a more consistent result.

[@ObiWanBillKenobi]

Don't forget to do a full before and after comparison montage when you finish this video series!

[@timbald]

Discovered you by accident, searching for 8" retro Floppy drives. I used to use TRSDOS machines a bit in my teens at the local Tandy store (UK) so this was been fascinating to watch! Hope you can diagnose the final faults.

[@richardwernst]

re: back panel paint/rust - you can buy (auto parts store if not hardware store) primer that's also a filler. It's just a really thick primer (for after rust converter?) you can apply to fill in those rust pits. Can even use more than one coat if necessary, then sand smooth. Or, for fairly deep pits, you can buy spot putty in a tube (like REALLY thick primer), then sand that down before final paint.

[@anatolbaskak]

actually you need a twist - but a different one, lines 10 and 12 swapped iirc - IF using gotek as 1st drive. that’s how it works with my betadisk interface for zx spectrum, which is shugart standard. the 2nd drive is connected per your explanation.

[@charlesjmouse]

Isn't inertia a wonderful thing? In the dim and distant past somebody came up with the Shugart standard, very likely a mix of whim a pragmatism. It worked, and nobody bothered to change it, so today we can plug solid state drives in to machines that really have no business being compatible.

[@papafrank7094]

Two tools I use to refurbish cases are my Dremel with buffing pads and an airbrush setup. The most difficult part of using the airbrush is getting the exact color to use and proper cleaning of the case.

[@rubberduck4966]

The Gotek has 100 times the cpu power of the TRS 80....

[@anotheruser9876]

The same reason why I switched from PI1541 to BMC64

[@kaitlyn__L]

Have you considered making a new intro sequence? Dubbed to VHS or not (and I do really like that look for the intro), I think there’s a lot of new great clips you could use! I guess I’ve seen it so many times I started tuning it out, but it just occurred to me it’s not super representative anymore! (Much emptier desk, less lighting, some more minor products, various “filler” feeling clips which could be replaced by more hardware shots, etc. And most importantly, THERE’S NO RAMMY! 😉)

[@redace001]

We fans should make one for him, and use some recent higher resoultion footage ( reaturing Rammy of course), slap on some new charp titles and just re-use the audio track. ;)

[@CDE.Hacker]

I thought I heard your voice crack a little at the end of the video. I feel your pain Adrian.

[@espressomatic]

$30 Gotek drive. Even buying direct from China they’re more than $18. 😹

[@brianv2871]

It depends on when he bought them, i bet. I bought a few around 2018/2019 through eBay and AliExpress and i got a few for $15.... But yeah, with the way things are now, they must be more.

[@ray73864]

I once used an old '90s server case as a daily driver for my computer, since I needed a new case with more storage spaces in it. But to use that case, I needed a new IDE cable, after much searching, I found an obscure computer shop about 30mins from me that had a 1.2metre long IDE cable which was the perfect length to do what I needed :P

[@Arcadenut1]

If you need replacement parts, you can always 3D print using ABS. Might give you better results than patching in old broken parts.

[@TheRealColBosch]

How would 3D printing the part prevent the glue from failing?

[@Arcadenut1]

@@TheRealColBosch Never said it would. My point was that he doesn't need to use scraps of old computers to fix something. He could print something that would be custom to what ever he is fixing and might work better as it would fit better.

[@kaitlyn__L]

@@Arcadenut1 I think he likes having a use for old broken computer case parts though, else he wouldn’t collect them when he already had a printer. Slash maybe his printer is one of those ones which does ABS poorly (I had only a passing interest in FDM, the UV resin ones are the ones I follow now, so I don’t know if that’s really a real limitation or not anymore.)

[@Quickened1]

@@TheRealColBosch he didn't use glue! Basically, he fuses the parts using acetone. The problem may be from using different abs plastics, that possibly have slightly different melt points...

[@haraldhimmel5687]

@@TheRealColBosch He didnt glue it, he fused it. And at least partially, the fused parts snapped. For the other parts it probably would have been best to sand and wipe the surfaces he intends to fuse.

[@parkeerdarkeer]

Gotta love when you wake up to new Adrian video

[@digihorse6730]

Regarding using tape to get screws in and out of awkward places. In the UK a product called BluTack can be purchased which is for sticking things temporarily. `I use that it stick on the end of the screwdriver or mini spanner to hold the small bits.

[@tigheklory]

This is not a criticism, but you might find that Meguiar's Cleaner Wax Paste, this is less abrasive than the Scratch X and is good to just remove the oxidation.

[@kencreten7308]

Fun comment so far... at 1:45, "there's nothing shiny about what's going on right here..." hehe

[@cardboardboxification]

Most plastic used is ABS and the black ABS glue melts it back together

[@BloodAsp]

As someone who works with DB-25 serial ports every day, I know your entire pain in dealing with those small nuts. For some of the machines I work with, I designed a specific jig to retain the nuts, but every manufacturer likes to have different designs, so more often than not I end up just relying on nimble hands.

[@misterhat5823]

Uno Lab? Could that be Und Lab for Underwriters Laboratories?

[@klaatubob]

Any possibility that by excluding the washers you've allowed the screws to go in far enough that they're touching something they shouldn't and you're getting a short?

[@JB52520]

That would be a questionable design decision, so you could be right.

[@Potts1966]

loving the series so far.. Keep producing model II content please.

[@spotterinc.engineering5207]

Can you share the FF Gotek config file?

[@sonicunleashedfan124]

I’d personally recommend upgrading the gotek’s display from the number display to an OLED display

[@stevejohnson1685]

Haven't seen 8" floppy drives since working on an "big blue" Intellec system writing PL/M code for Multibus SBCs in 1980. Thunk!

[@primus711]

No clear coat u should invest in a airbrush and repaint restoration or not its just painting

[@JustinEmlay]

Random internet cleaning tip - The best thing I ever came across to clean paint off a vehicle (paint transferred from something else like being in an accident)....brake cleaner! Do not spray on vehicle. Spray lightly on a rag and very quickly rub the paint off then fully wash off the area. If you rub too long you'll eat all the way through to your own paint. With that said, I wonder what it could do for computer stuff that has foreign material transfered onto it.

[@PeteWord]

Thanks for the great video Adrian! I do think the machine is suffering from overload or underload ... how will you probe? I look forward to finding out. Really enjoying the series!

[@ItsMrAssholeToYou]

Adrian, trust me, you want to go to the hardware store and pick-up some ABS pipe glue from the plumbing department. It's not only easier to work with than acetone, but is formulated to provide a stronger bond.

[@MCGeorgeMallory]

On the plus side, we get more videos!

[@boltingskyline5234]

13:21 And a specialized set of words as well!

[@8bitwiz_]

About opening the doors when power cycling, I can see why that might not be a problem with 8" floppies that have a head load solenoid, but I zapped more than a few disks on my Model I by power cycling with a drive door closed. Basically it sends a pulse through the drive cable, you'll see the select light go on, and it also (presumably) puts a spike of power through the head, which zaps whatever is right under it, putting a soft error on the disk. I have no idea what happened with the keyboard at the end, though.

[@OscarSommerbo]

You inspired me to get a few cheap OLED displays to replace some old LCD displays when you used the chip tester after upgrading it.

[@AlainHubert]

I remember seeing these computer systems in Radio Shack catalogs and couldn't believe their prices!! I remember saying to myself: nobody will be able to buy any of those, except millionaires!

[@TravisJRaasch]

Notification Squad!!! :D

[@maxtornogood]

More emphasis was made on the plastic than the Gotek!

[@chadhartsees]

"Wow, they don't make them like this anymore!"

[@jadall77]

My Dad had at least three of these with I think a 15 mb hard drive and at least a 2 floppy external thing. Probably connect multiple computers to the hard drive as I think the set up had only 1 hard drive. but a floppy in each computer and a double floppy and hard drive could do a lot of work. And knowing my Dad he would have had some extra memory modules. That tandy 100 portable we had I think it was 172,000 bytes on the thing I"ve never seen one over 32k in videos. FINAL EDIT. He might STILL be using the printer he got with this setup. probably like 11 inch wide white and green with the holes on the sides that you tear off. perfect for printing out database files. He was using them in the early 2000's still (just the printer. )

[@gregargendeli2973]

having a couple of these with the external drives (running P&T CP/M and UCSD P system).... I know your pain,

[@danniemortensen597]

Dahm. So close, and yet The computer died at The finish Line. But hey… on its Way to 45 years almost. What Can possible go wrong 😁. Back in The saddle, we Will gladly watch an other video from you.

[@aaronperl]

Back in the day, I was home for lunch and was playing one of the old Sharedata games, Wheel of Fortune or Jeopardy or something, and I lost track of time and suddenly noticed I was late to head back to school. I quickly shut off the PC (pretty sure it was an XT) and left. Later, when I tried to load the game up again it wouldn't start, "Bad command or filename". Somehow the executable file had been deleted from the (original!) disk. Every other file was present and seemed to be okay (as far as I could tell with my very limited knowledge and tools at the time), but I had to way to run the program. Eventually I found a friend who also had the game and I tried copying the executable from his disk, but he must have had a different revision or something; the file was too big to fit. That's the only time I ever lost data from power cycling the PC, but I've been skittish about it ever since, and I always make sure to unmount USB drives before removing them, even when I "know" it's not always necessary.

[@BrucesWorldofStuff]

Well Piddle.... Just not ready to shine for YT I guess... :-( LLAP

[@quertize]

Never had success with pure acetone when glueing ABS. Had better results with plastic model cement like Tamiya makes.

[@paulravitsky2898]

The solenoid only lifts the head load pad from the floppy. The head is still in contact with the floppy and the power on/off pulses can still "write" to the disk. If the head load pad is worn or missing the drive may have issues reading the floppy although the FDC would usually retry several times. I suspect possible dirty contacts on the backplane. We used a pink pencil eraser to burnish the card contacts followed up with deoxit on the card edge and the socket. The only "special" tool we used was an Xcelite 18" magnetic 1/4' nut driver. Nice job!

[@shmoostead5419]

Recently discovered I have some TRS-80 branded 5.25 inch floppy discs.

[@ctb___]

I’ve also used ScratchX with good success on my car but I wonder if Novus 1-2-3 plastic polish would work too? Just a thought, but good job!

[@danaeckel]

What an awful machine! Tandy sure move a sharp direction from the TRS-80 Model 1. Was the model III as complex as the II?

[@mikeuk666]

Adrian have you ever watched the fascinating closeup repairs on NorthridgeFix channel?

[@ms-dosman7722]

Just when I was thinking "wow, he really got it working again", the computer broke again. Curses! Hope you can get it fixed!

[@mvickers03]

I watched this whole series in a day! I am not glad it’s over! I will probably watch it again in a few years. Honestly, it’s so great that you talk a lot. Some people go into themselves when working, but your videos have so much information. Thanks for all you do. Might get me on the patreon soon

[@erickvond6825]

"Special set of tools." Do yourself a favor next time you go to remove something like that. Put a piece of masking tape over the nut and washer. Then you can safely remove the screw with no fear of losing the other hardware. I've been working on things for decades. This is a little trick I picked up to save myself a lot of frustration later. Thanks for the great videos. I'm subscribed on both channels.

[@redace001]

Dragging? No way! It's #JANTANDY I'm following along with eager anticipation, taking notes on how you are using the gotek / flash floppy. I want to do the same for my Model I. I have the Gotek all set to go, I just need to figure out how to get images, in the right format, loaded on the thumbdrive properly, and get it connected to my expansion interface correctly!

[@paulgray1699]

Why did you reset the computer in setup/diagnostics instead of properly finishing and exiting? You may have created your problem.

[@dodgydruid]

I remember at college they had one of these and I seem to think British Rail used these for some of their TOPS operations, I never got much on TRS as I was put always on the Sperry Univac then I got kicked off the course for hacking into the payroll dept's database and added an extra 50p to everyones wages hehehehe

[@Quickened1]

That is one of the most disheartening feelings, to have something you've worked so hard on, fire right up, appear to function perfectly, only to have it fail the very next time you turn it on! If it were me, the next thing I would do, is unplug the machine, leave it unplugged, but power it on through the switch for a bit, to drain any residual energy out of the caps. In fact maybe let it sit for a few minutes. Then reenergize it normally without the added floppy emulator. I've seen ghosts like this many times, and a thorough power down cycle, along with removing any peripherals, chases many of them away....

[@TheDarkelvenangel]

Not sure if someone mentioned this but the gotek is externally powered and when you power off the machine you aren't powering off that drive you could be back powering something unintentionally and that's causing your problem.

[@petenielsen6683]

My brother-in-law interviewed a former engineer for Tandy as an applicant for a job at the circuit board company where he works. In the course of the conversation the engineer called the entire line trash 80s and said they would not have been if they had been able to spend more to make them. But in the 1980s the computers would have to have been priced higher than the target consumer would be willing to pay.

[@shortymtb]

So glad I read the description before posting "wasn't this $18 gotek when it was posted?" 😁😁

[@foobarmaximus3506]

That Trash-80 is good for one thing and one thing only: Playing Hamurabi. That's it. Nothing else.

[@EmperorKonstantine01]

Some of These machines can be a Nightmare to repair, I think the historical passion to restore one drives us to get the result we desire. longest I ever spent was repairing an early IBM machine that "Supposedly" had one dead thing, which lead to to numerous other problems. Had me going insane for 6 months on and off.

[@CATech1138]

I use black ABS sewer pipe cement…thicker viscosity than straight acetone does a better job of melding the parting line

[@nickblackburn1903]

So...$40 per hour on this computer restoration, would be a bill of how much? You have poured so much effort into this and it is to be applauded, well done sir!

[@jjdigitalvideosolutionsllc5343]

Rather than gluing new tabs in, how about trying a plastic friction welder. I saw this on Fran Lab a while back: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGHdoaSencigppY

[@garyjohnson4608]

The computers biggest problem is that it's a model II. They were very short lived because of all the software bugs throughout the entire machine.

[@tarajoe07]

Got me one of these today! Keyboard doesn't work. But it fully boots to a floppy! I think that's a miracle in of itself.

[@thunderbeam9166]

Adrian, the reset switch looks like a modified off the shelf slide switch, I bet you could find either a semi close match or the parts to repair it at Surplus Sales of Nebraska, they have a boatload of NOS switches of all different flavors!

[@Starchface]

I remember hearing that the disks getting erased was caused by the CRT degaussing. Not confirming it though.

[@paulwratt]

Dragging on is fine, it reflects real world senarios. Unless you are a (in this case, a TRS80) fanatic, its also fine to break up these sort of video series. Variety is the spice of life (or so they say). Keep plugging away at this one, it will be worth it in the end, and it also supplies more specific solutions for those trying to do research or diagnostics in the future.

[@infinitecanadian]

Correction: the switch only uses a fiberglass board, not a PCB.

[@wb8cxo]

You're still my retro computer hero!

[@Peter-rt3tu]

Hi Adrian, could there be a problem with this A3-line, some sort of short or too low impedance, that eats CPUs?

[@robfl07]

If you want to skip all the case cleaning and broken tab drama and get right to the drive emulator as in the video’s title.. jump to 19:35

[@joshhiner729]

Oof. Really sorry the unit malfunctioned after all that work. Cant wait to see the repair video but that must have been a deflating moment. Ive been there before.

[@beatadalhagen]

A specialised set of tools ... and a specialised vocabulary, I'm sure.

[@rille47]

Ahh the struggles and suffering You have to endure.. it decides not to behave when it was time to claim the victory and get some reward for all that hard work :( hang in there - as always, great video.

[@orakelgottes]

That launching of option 8 from the menu has screwed up the whole computer ..too bad ..

[@Meinsofa]

The case. Sandblast an with fill primer. And than spry whit the color.

[@TheDiveO]

next up: 8" gotec with a matching 8" usb mem stick. bonus: gotec directly running of 120V AC.