Soroc IQ 120: Let's address the cataracts in the room

Now the Soroc IQ 120's power supply is working again, let's address the terrible catacted CRT and see if we can get something else installed.
Part 1: • Soroc IQ 120: Well, th...
Part 2: • Soroc IQ 120: Sorting ...
Part 3: This part!
Part 4: Coming soon
-- Info
Documentation:
www.bitsavers.o...
Soroc IQ 120:
terminals-wiki...
Adrian's Digital Basement Merch store:
my-store-c82bd...
Adrian's Digital Basement ][ (Second Channel)
/ @adriansdigitalbasement2
Support the channel on Patreon:
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My GitHub repository:
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-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.co...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM Programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/i...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.co...
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/i...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfrei...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/i...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (Order Five)
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Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
amzn.to/3b8LOOI
--- Instructional videos
My video on chip removal without damage:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino

[@Nas_Atlas]

Adrian's CRT basement. I'm here for it.

[@DonatellaBensi]

YESSSSSSS ❤❤

[@tramadol42]

Does anyone else got the feeling that Adrian in the video comes across as a Brotherhood of Steel scribe working on a RobCo terminal?

[@DonatellaBensi]

@@tramadol42 LOL I WISH

[@alfonsotoledo8009]

Hell yeah!!!

[@cpm1003]

The logo being the top of a beer can got a chuckle out of me.

[@stevencarlson5422]

same for sure

[@lukebowers536]

Hey dude, Chemist here from the UK who also has a passion for retro, i found soaking in toluene took of the safety coating very easy on a crt i had with this problem, it solvates the glue very fast. it took an afternoon to work its magic, but when i lifted the crt from the tray the mess just stayed behind in the tray, make sure you do it outside or in a well ventilated place tho, toluene fumes are as flammable as petroleum spirit. Hope this helps, excellent work by the way, really enjoying watching your journey thru this project, ime working on a temperamental Amiga 1200 at present, it has a fractured motherboard which ive re-built over the last 8 weeks.

[@bdwilcox]

Trinitrotoluene should work even faster. Heh.

[@lucifeta]

man, toluene is toxic as hell and can get you really high (doped), its forbidden in us and a lot of other countries to buy it in pure state for personal usage. Since we care about adrian's safety there's any solvent that can do it with lower harm? Maybe IPA?

[@Scruit]

@@bdwilcox Certainly no need to worry about fixing the logic board afterwards.

[@awd42]

In the US there's a readily available solvent called Goof-Off which is xylene + toluene and is great at removing sticky glue. It's powerful stuff, so wear gloves and be careful what it gets on! (It can damage paint and certain plastics.)

[@trampoliiin]

@@awd42 Not just gloves, also activated charcoal respirators and good ventilation/outside. Definitely no basement solvents.

[@woodand]

been watching ADB now for over 5 years ! still the most consistent (and best) content on KZbin.. please keep it up .. Happy new year !

[@TheDefpom]

@37:00 you forgot about G1 voltage, being way down compared to the CRT list of voltages... change the jumpers for G1.

[@TheDimentoGraven]

From a friend who does "Custom Cathode reConstruction", get a 'water proof' tub just big enough to allow you to put the tube in face down. Pour in enough alcohol to fill the bottom of the tub to a few inches. What you want to happen is when the tube is placed face down, the alcohol will go high enough to submerge the protective layer. Cover the tub, let it soak for a long good while (some times days, but 4 or 5 hours is 'typically' sufficient I'm told). As the IPA soaks in from the edge of the protective layer it will dissolve/loosen the adhesive allowing you to slowly, but more easily work it off.

[@FalconFour]

Given what we've seen with IPA breaking down the gunk easily, that really seems to be a good approach. I would have also suggested warming it in a lowest-heated oven (150f?) for an hour or so. Maybe even warming the tub of IPA (90f?) would make it work even more easily, but have other issues (fumes).

[@glenndefrees7459]

If you do warm the ipa any make sure you do it outside. Ipa has a flash point below 73f and a boiling point less than 140f. The fumes would not only be unpleasant to breathe, but would be highly ignitable.

[@Dr_Mario2007]

My advice is to strip the CRT clean of plastics first since the warm IPA will eat anything in the sight, since it's of course a solvent. IPA or a huge bottle of Everclear, doesn't matter, you just want to make sure you are not ruining anything else mounted on the CRT, since of course the deflection yokes tend to operate at high voltage when resonating at 15 - 33 kilohertzs. And when yoke's removed, be very careful around the CRT neck. Also, if you don't feel comfortable with heating up the alcohol with open heater or burner, try Aquarium tank heater - only submerge the glass part and don't let plastics touch any alcohol.

[@simontay4851]

But if you heat it, it will evaporate faster than it already does.

[@75slaine]

I was wondering if submerging the surface in IPA would help loosen it enough to peel off. Was going to suggest experiment with the exposed glue at the edges to verify.

[@mrnmrn1]

You mixed the units when you measured the inductance on the old yoke. The 70 whatever is *milli*Henrys, the 120 is *micro*Henrys.

[@timradde4328]

I noticed that too.

[@jekylltraveler]

I'm sure one of those tech kiosks at your local mall can do a quick screen swap on the cataract display. 😊

[@Really........]

The CRT looks cool and eerie with all the cracks.

[@katho8472]

Post-apocalyptic movie prop :D

[@Really........]

@@katho8472 Or play one of the Fallout games on it.

[@bhhenry]

Oh, Adrian dear, with your tools and your grit, You tackled the Soric, bit by bit. The cataracts clung, the voltages fought, But your clever hands gave it all that they’ve got. Though CRT swaps and lines went astray, Your raster appeared, and it lit up the way. So onward to Part Four, with hope burning bright, The Soric will shine in your tinkering light!

[@IanScottJohnston]

Been years since I played with CRT's like this (Nascom II builds in early 80's) but kudos to Adrian for taking this on, and not doing too bad a job so far! Well done. If you use the old CRT then be careful and replace the protective cataracted screen with something if you can, it was partly included as a cover in the case of implosion/shattering back in the day.

[@PeteWord]

Haven’t been so excited about a part 4 for a while!

[@patchouli3422]

There is no failure where progress was made and knowledge was gained.

[@JenniferinIllinois]

OMG the origin of the name and logo. I love it!!!!

[@prestongivens3594]

Adrian, No prob with the tactical retreat at the end of the day! 🤣💪. You’re gaining ground on them, inch by inch. Just continue with the Winter Digital Campaign! Once the Sun comes out, the Spring Campaign will be about making it look good!

[@AdamBouzaneOfficial]

such great content! Thanks Adrian! glad to have this on my Xmas break!

[@Rorschach1024]

To get the safety glass off, use a guitar string tied to wooden dowels like a garotte. Then heat up the face of the crt and pull the string between the crt and the glass.

[@pipschannel1222]

Definitely not a failure of a video in my opinion. It checks the boxes for Interesting and educational content! Also: Your viewers know all about technical challenges like the ones you're facing here which makes it all the more genuine. Hope to see this lovely old terminal spring to life in a next episode! Happy holidays Adrian!

[@lilshawn2]

I managed to get a hold of a bulk quantities of UV cured glue called 'K-300'... they typically use this stuff to seal windshield rock chips and attach touch overlay glass to LCD panels in cellphone's. it's optically clear, i've used it to adhere all kinds of plastics and glass together and i can get it cured either with UV light or simply taking it outside on a bright sunny day. that would likely work very well to re-apply the safety glass to the tube.

[@williamsudbrink4187]

I recently cleaned up an ADM3A that "leaked" all over the PCB. It is a major pain to clean up but I did catch it before any corrosion started so I was lucky there. The additional issue with the ADM3A is that the keyboard is integrated into the main board and that had to be disassembled and cleaned also.

[@JeepinBoon]

I flinched when you removed the ground clip before the high voltage probe... I would have gotten bit if I tried that.

[@Spudz76]

But it clearly had drained already. Perhaps your HV probe didn't have the drain feature? Still a fairly reasonable safety habit to un-probe before un-grounding.

[@JeepinBoon]

@@Spudz76 You Right. I've been bit a few times too many. Even the day after power down. Hang it up, that right arm is tingly and weak for the rest of the day. Used to do arcade machine repair in my free time if I could keep the old parts. Good old days.

[@BenInSeattle]

You went way over my head when you started talking about "emissions" and "G2 voltage", but that's a good thing -- it's exactly the kind of content I want to hear about. I want to fix up a too bright Sony Trinitron multisync. I was able to compensate for it using Sony WinDAS but now whenever it shows too much white on the screen it suddenly dims everything. I had read that on my model some resistor commonly fails and "G2" goes extra high and causes the X-ray suppression circuit to kick in . At the time, I imagined I could just stick a new resistor in there, but I wanted to understand the circuit well enough to know what hazards I'd be causing first. So I put the CRT to the side and... well, that was over a dozen years ago! But hopefully by watching more of your channel I'll eventually be savvy enough to do it. P.S. That sucks that you have to wait for sunny days before the Soroc cataracts can be removed. You wouldn't by chance be a member of the Seattle Retro-Computing Society, would you?

[@Shymon87]

The original picture tube was manufactured by Philips, on the back there is a PHs marking on the glass.

[@Agnarian]

Wonderful video! Look forward to seeing it fully working and put back together!

[@stevebabiak6997]

You dismounted the yoke. I think you might need to adjust the yoke to get better geometry. You also have a problem in the vertical deflection it seems, because the characters at the bottom are squished compared to those at the top. Sometimes vertical centering can help that. From a guy who worked in the color CRT industry.

[@JamsterJules]

Fascinating Adrian. Loving this series !

[@user-nd8zh3ir7v]

Wow I never would have come to that conclusion, great job as usual!

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Dang. Had high hopes for this. Valiant effort for sure. Another great CRT video nonetheless. Thanks as always!

[@TomaTLAB]

+400V comes from flyback. You can try to add a voltage doubler instead of single diode on this circuitry.

[@fumthings]

good idea, how is the unit supposed to work with the other option of a crt?

[@helgew9008]

Knipex side cutters. Nice! Since I bought mine, I cannot believe the difference. Only problem is, when I (ab)use them as strippers, they are so sharp that I often end up slicing off a sliver of insulation instead of stripping the wire.

[@Stjaernljus]

for putting the safety glass back on maybe LOCA(Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive) might work its what they use to bond the LCD to the glass on mobile phones.

[@danielleblanc5923]

Very instructive video as always. It might not be a good idea to use a heat gun ad a heat source as it might produce a too uneven temperature change in the glass of the tube. What I have seen is putting the screen on its 'face' and use a large infrared lamp + patience for preheating. This is much slower but a lot safer. Also prying the safety glass off is not a good idea either. A thin wire might to 'cut' the glue might be a better option (once the glue is at the right temperature).

[@Colin_Ames]

I look forward to the next episode in this series.

[@russellashburn6268]

Adrian, why in the world would you call this a "failure of a video"? Did you share your knowledge? Yes. Was it entertaining? Yes. Did you learn something about the terminal and swapping CRTs into it? Yes. Sounds like there was a lot of good content to me, not a failure.

[@SockyNoob]

Failed repair but not a failure of a video, correct

[@thebayandurpoghosyanshow]

I think the CRT can be saved - but there are risks involved. Removing the protective glass might require heating, which can harm the phosphor or cause the screen to implode. But if you remove it safely, it can be glued back using optical glue, or jeweler's glue.

[@jbrownjetmech-4783]

Such a bummer to have no real victories in this one. Must revisit this asap and try again.

[@cooperschwartz318]

I use a space heater and a violin string to remove cataracts from my terminal, worked great lmao

[@biffclifton]

Big capacitors always scare me, and I'm glad to know I was rightfully fearful of going anywhere near CRTs with a screwdriver.

[@NickCharles]

23:44 If you're having issues with OBS crashing, changing the file type to .MKV (if not already set that way) can help you with recovering that footage! MKV is more forgiving when it comes to sudden end of file scenarios compared to the .mp4 container. You can then remux it to mp4 after your recording is done through the file->remux recordings option if your video editor doesn't support MKV natively. The remux option can also save a MKV file that maybe doesn't play as is after a crash too. My video editor (Resolve) handles mkvs just fine but before I used it I was using the remux option all the time, never had an issue with it.

[@KennethScharf]

It's probably more critical that the horizontal windings on the yoke be the same as the yoke and the flyback are usually a matched pair. OTOH, the vertical windings might not be as critical, though you might have to change a width coil, if one is present.

[@GarthBeagle]

Loving this series!

[@luizapolinario7529]

Tá ficando muito legal está série!!!! No aguardo para os próximos episódios! 👍

[@dougblum2472]

At 25:40m the J1 jumper…. That adjust the G1 voltage? Have you measured it with the jumper in various positions?

[@LarsvanderSchans]

Bending some fins, almost smashing a hole in the crt 😂😂

[@jakester1390]

I'd love to see you fix the cataracts on that CRT! Please!

[@thunderbeam9166]

Soroc was approached by McDonalds Canada with “Oh hey, we need a McTerminal eh?”, and Soroc delivered!

[@LittleDancerByGrace]

I worked at McDonald's Canada for four years, but by then they had replaced the 'McTerminals' with glorified tablets that ran Windows 10 plus an ancient (and SLOW) shell program (I think the copyright date of the shell was 1998? Couldn't swear to that though). The Sorocs would have been MUCH cooler, IMO.

[@SockyNoob]

The slightly crooked ICs on the motherboard are hilarious lol.

[@povilasstaniulis9484]

For corrupted videos, there's a piece of open source software called "untrunc", it's normally meant for *nix OS'es, but I have a build for Windows as well. Helped me to repair damaged videos from a phone as well as some incomplete videos from a crashed drone. You will only need an intact reference video, created using the same settings.

[@wtfusernamecrap]

Noooo! Don't shelve the CRT repair! I'm way to invested in this strange gadget now, and want to see it work :) Thanks Adrian, wish you a few relaxing holidays!

[@khangaudio399]

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ thank you

[@anotheruser9876]

The original tube had PH on it which I'd suggest would be a Phillips one.

[@drewpartlow9813]

Lets see the cataract repair. DANGER ⚡ 💥

[@GreenJimll]

Did Adrian flip the milli-henrys and micro-henrys when measure the yoke inductance?

[@Lilithe]

24:00 do you run OBS in standard MKV form? Because if you do, it should never really corrupt beyond repair. That's why they don't default to MP4. You're supposed to use the "remux" feature which instantly remuxes to MP4 and takes as long as it takes to copy the file instead of actually reprocessing anything. MKV has the pertinent data needed to decode the file throughout the stream instead of only at the end.

[@verficationaccount]

Wow, thanks for that info. Used mkv often in OBS but usually I converted it with handbrake - which seemed convoluted and odd to me. Now I know why.

[@extremegabel]

They introduced the Hybrid MP4 format in v30.2 which is kind of the best of both worlds, but its still marked as beta theres's an article about this on the OBS blog

[@micheldurieux6430]

This has been suggested already; use a safe organic solvent to soak off the plastic. Maybe experiment with Acetone or Toluene?

[@RobsonWilliam82]

Maybe using a steel string (guitar string) or a nylon string (may deform under heat and break), to remove the front glass could work. I think it may cause less stress in the glass, you just need to keep it moving side to side, like if you were cutting.

[@andygozzo72]

one thing to watch when swapping crts, the base connections and heater volts may vary, and some guns use a high A1 and focus volts ,,around 300, maybe more, some low, around 100, putting a high voltage type in place of a low, you'll likely get no picture, other way round it'll 'white out', maybe taking excessive eht current, even risking flashover. with all those wide ranging adjustments in that machine, it can likely drive both types with suitable setting...

[@peterferguson2344]

I had stripped an old CRT tv for spares for my boss, we left the tube in the storeroom for many many months and yet he got a shock ⚡ when lifting the bare tube to use it

[@aerodesic1]

I didn't read all of the comments, so it may have been already sggested: I've had some success on some 5 inch crts of using a small gauge heated nichrome wire to sort of 'saw' through between the over-screen and the crt face. You still end up with a cleanup mess but avoid most of the prying between the two pieces of glass.

[@ChishanFipz]

I still can't believe we had these crazy minature bombs in our houses, and thought nothing of it!

[@Spudz76]

And nothing ever really happened. Paranoid/neurotic levels of safety are rarely necessary.

[@herrbonk3635]

Now we have much more dangerous fire bombs instead (i.e the lithium batteries in our phones, PCs, and many cars...)

[@yuukanee]

​@@herrbonk3635 electric vehicles, they are slighly better than gas vehicles, but the lithium mining n fires

[@Thesecret101-te1lm]

Warning! I've never done that repair on a CRT, but CRT cracking due to heat stress is for sure a thing. I would recommend try heating the CRT in an owen or like DIY green house heated to the desired temperature, letting the goo slowly drip out, rather than using a heat gun. If you absolutely want to use something similar to a heat gun, at least use a hair blow dryer instead of a heat gun, as that uses more air flow to output about the same or even more heat energy but at a lower temperature, which likely reduces the risk of the glass cracking due to heat stress. (My young-and-dumb experience of cracking a CRT happened several decades ago. I had a worn-out TV in a corner, waiting for it's destiny, and I needed some strong light to work on something, and the light I had at hand was one of those old 500W fan cooled halogen spotlights for early 80's color video cameras, but no stand, so I just thought that glass can take heat without burning, so I parked it against that old TV. A while later I heard a cracking sound and fortunately air slowly bled in to the CRT over several minutes. That was one of the scariest young-and-dumb things I've ever done)

[@bzuidgeest]

Maybe you should not give advice on things you haven't done. There are a bunch of tv experts on KZbin that give good instructions. It's really not that bad. The heat from sunlight is mostly enough. And heatguns have low settings.

[@Thesecret101-te1lm]

@@bzuidgeest Or maybe better safe than sorry? Agree that sunlight alone would be the best though.

[@AK-vx4dy]

This dark "military" green tint of monochrome tubes is so characteristic and seems independent on phosphorus color.

[@Akutabai5]

Maybe you can stick that 43 inch Sony CRT that was recently acquired from an udon shop on Japan? It'll probably fit

[@anonymouse-f4z]

Could you use your tester to check which range your spare crt are set to in order to sort them into different voltage ranges and see if you have any that are the 100-300 range vs the 300-600 range

[@messmer777]

Am I the only one who wanted him to fix the orginal CRT from the beginning? I was shouting at the camera when he decided to use a different CRT.

[@jasonlandry8685]

OBS had a recent update. I suggest you make sure OBS is fully updated. I had an issue with it becoming frozen for 10 second intervals constantly. An update fixed the issue.

[@BrendanRaymondKoroKoro]

cant wait for the cataracts repair

[@simontay4851]

Make a voltage doubler circuit for the G2 voltage. You just need 2 diodes and 2 caps.

[@windforward9810]

Enjoy this thanks

[@slightlyevolved]

Man, watching that voltage increase from 37 to 400 was so nerve racking....

[@sivalley]

I'm curious what the heater current on the amber CRT is because I didn't see any fillament glow. Would also explain the poor emission level.

[@KennethScharf]

Assuming the CRT isn't worn out it can be saved if you have the courage to remove the safety glass and the bonding agent. Shango66 has done many videos showing how to do this on a roundie color CRT, (and maybe a few rectangular ones). It should be safer to try this on a 12" 110 degree tube like the one in the monitor than a larger 70 - 90 degree color tube. But you might have to wait for summer, so you can let the tube bake in the sun to soften the gunk.

[@brucecowgill7672]

There should be a white non blinking cursor when you power it up. Either board malfunction or the keyboard needs connected.

[@anotheruser9876]

If you remove the glue gunk with IPA why not try to remove the cataract with IPA?

[@paulturner5769]

At 12:11 there seems to be padding all around the mounting ring and the aquadag stops short of it anyway. I usually see a contraption of springs and tinned braid to connect the 'dag to chassis.

[@cmayk]

That spare tube you installed is the same type of tube installed in an Amdek Video 300

[@kitchentroll5868]

In the long, long ago when terminals were still more prevalent than desktop microcomputers like Apple IIs and TRS-80s, the CRTs used in monitors were hardly ever "universally compatible". Most manufacturers saw standardization as giving money to their competition. Yes they may want to cut costs using "off the shelf" products, but one would do well to remember that "off the shelf" covered a very long time range of stuff that had been languishing in warehouses since the very dawn of electronics. I, myself, can recall seeing more than a few that had CRTs inside them that had no indication who had manufactured them and used voltages wildly different from what I thought they should use. It was only after IBM PCs took the fore that I started seeing any sort of standardization in CRTs, although even then one ran upon the outlier plasma screen display or vector display that would confound replacement.

[@tommythorn]

I immediately recognized the NUL character from my Nascom 2 but seeing the character font I think it too must have used a Motorola part too, which is odd as any old ROM would have worked as well. In fact I was never in love with that font and always meant to make a custom one. Good job on the terminal. Maybe fix the noisy fan to make it a bit more comfortable.

[@RowanHawkins]

Waiting for Raster!

[@TVOrientalTelesofiabartolomeu]

CRTs são incríveis

[@andygozzo72]

looks to me with the red tinge on the muck from the scan coils is that you're stripping some of the enamel off!! i'd dry it thoroughly and paint it with some sort of lacquer

[@kardRatzinger]

I would just rey to cut the protective glass shield with hot wire. A guitar string (high E seems to work fine) and a few volts from the bench power supply should do the trick.

[@RiccardoConturbia]

You know everything about CRTs! How can one learn?

[@McTroyd]

I once saw a cosplayer friend warm up a piece of acrylic in the oven (at a low temperature, maybe 150 F / 65 C? Whatever the lowest setting on his oven was). He then placed the acrylic on top of a mold, and used a hot air gun to form it to the shape of the mold he made. Could something similar be done to form a replacement safety screen for that CRT by forming directly on the CRT, and trimming away excess? I imagine we wouldn't want to heat-stress the glass, but what if the hot air gun was kept on the acrylic side? 🤔👍

[@LeonardoFabioUlloaQuintero]

How good was the technology of that time, today it is old but in its time it was powerful😊😊😁

[@hamesparde9888]

If you leave the CRT for long enough, the front cover should basically just fall off right? Then you can just clean it and glue the cover back on.

[@Vermilicious]

Adrian doing his CRT voodoo again!

[@SkyCharger001]

before you blame the RAM, make sure you do not have stuck inputs on the character decoder. (which, considering the consistency of what is being displayed, feels more likely)

[@AntonyTCurtis]

Motherboard looks like hand-laid traces, and they did used to play such tricks as rotating components to allow simpler track layout.

[@aarong9378]

When using OBS, I recommend recording in MKV format. This seems to corrupt less frequently than MP4 when OBS crashes.

[@TheInternetHelpdeskPlays]

After some awful crt experiences, everyone i see someone repair and swap them over, i actively brace for the pop when the power turns on.

[@CallMekwech]

if you're worried about losing your recordings when OBS crashes, the best practice is to record as .MKV. Rather than encode your video when the recording finishes, it encodes as you go. (you might already know this but I often find myself suggesting this cause it's important to streamers)

[@sergiomodare]

It reminded me of Spock trying to build a computer from scratch to calculate the future. Even more so with that spectrometer software looking like a tricorder.

[@ppotty]

The screen full of "O" could just be a CRT equivalent of a lamp test.

[@TheFurriestOne]

I wonder if the aquadag on the original CRT would need reapplied after the corrosive leakage was cleaned off?

[@toddweaversound]

What about using a transformer in line to step up to the 500-600 volts you need on that pin?

[@rojovision]

I believe recording to the MKV or Hybrid MP4 formats will solve potential file corruption issues since they're built to be more resilient. If you do MKV you'll likely need to just remux the file to MP4 within OBS for better video editing compatibility. Hybrid MP4 also lets you set up a hotkey to insert chapters on the fly which will show up in DaVinci Resolve.

[@KAPTKipper]

At one time, in the mid to late 80's McDonalds Canada used Tandy Model 100's to managed orders.

[@cooperschwartz318]

Woah that’s pretty cool

[@surfinbirdzx]

That cracked screen showing "o"s looks artisticly brutal. Like stuff from the cuberpunk movie. Maybe you shouldnt fix it:) At least not the tube.

[@shmehfleh3115]

I once dropped an old amber CRT from a CGA display into a B&W TV, just to see what would happen. It worked, but the picture was really dark. I don't know a damn thing about CRTs myself, but those tubes requiring a higher grid voltage than TV CRTs does seem to jive with my own experience.