Let's talk: The awesome Commodore 1084 monitor

#Commodore #CRT #longForm
On today's video, I'm taking a look at a Commodore 1084 that was saved from e-waste. Let's talk about how great this monitor is and why.
Let me know if you like this format or not!
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[@zero0ryn]

The VCR button disables flywheel sync on horizontal. Without it you'll get the top of the picture bending over or tarring on vcr playback. Tarring occurs on video playback due to the flapping of the tape as the head starts touching the tape on it's sweep. The only reason to have flywheel sync in the first place to to deal with RF drop out in low signal areas.

[@Lierofox]

My initial guess was maybe it was something to do with Macrovision protection, wasn't sure if the timeline lined up with this CRT though.

[@SeanBZA]

@@Lierofox That is removes Macrovision is by accident, the switch simply disables the AGC in the set, which normally has a gate that charges a capacitor, to store black level and sync level, from the standard blank lines in the flyback period. This then sets the gain for the entire frame, as those 2 levels are proportional to signal level, and thus you can get the dynamic range from them. VCR and Macrovision made those vary, so sets with flywheel sync, which ignore the level, using a internal fixed gain, do not suffer from jitter and picture brightness changes, but all later sets used this to set gains inside the jungle chipset. Disable it and you have to set gain manually, which in a TV set is contrast control, to get peak white. VCR's use this to set gains for the recording stages, which ensures that you do not get crushed video, which has a bad problem of then causing chroma splatter, as the sidebands overlap, so you need to control gain, or have a fixed input level. To record Macrovision you had to have a circuit that replaced that set of varying level lines, at the beginning of frame with some blank lines, to get a good sync pulse and back porch, but it also had to gate through the colour bursts so the colour would not be out for the first few lines. This solved the problem on monitors as well, as VCR head switching would often create some artefacts in the blanking interval sync pulses, so regenerating them was needed for touchy monitors. The VCR generates the sync pulses using a PLL internally, but the video is placed on top of them, and all the broadcast equalising pulses, used to ensure no DC offset in the transmit stage, is lost. For local video no problem, DC clamps recover the signal fine, but the long broadcast chain needed them, as DC clamping would eventually degrade the signal, when applied enough times, as all that path is AC coupled. Yes you got professional recorders with AGC disable switches, which made copying Macrovision possible, which is how you got pre recorded tapes with it on. All the Panasonic professional and industrial recorders had this on the front controls.

[@zero0ryn]

@@SeanBZA The disabling of flywheel sync would actually make the the monitor more susceptible to going out of sync / loosing sync if macrovision were present. A far as I know most monitors have no AGC circuitry at all and TV's only have an AGC in the RF section before demodulation takes place. It is indeed true that some VCR's that have AGC's in the video input and that is designed to make maximum use of the poor dynamic range available on the tape. All video signals are supposed to be equal @ 1v pk2pk. The AGC is there because some video signals are more equal than others. Macrovision copy protection was indeed designed to fool the VCR's AGC into thinking it had a super high level video signal and apply attenuation which would often be so much that the VCR would not be able to lock onto the sync. It would a a fun thing to show on the scope as a video Adrian :)

[@stefanegger]

what?

[@NozomuYume]

@@stefanegger He's saying the auto gain control is in the VCR, not the monitor. The first version of Macrovision worked by flashing crap in the vertical blank to screw up the auto gain control. (it determines what signal level is black and what level is white, to make best use of dynamic range of the tape. The way to defeat it is to disable AGC in the VCR, or alter it to use different scanlines to do the black and white level detection)

[@LeftoverBeefcake]

A few years ago I drove 4 hours round trip from Buffalo to Toronto, just to get a 1084S monitor that was being sold on Craigslist for $35. Thankfully my passport was still valid and my car is very fuel efficient. :) I still need to swap out the power button, otherwise this thing has been working wonderfully with my 128 and CDTV. It was WELL worth it... I love this monitor.

[@gorak9000]

Heh, I had one of these and got rid of it before I moved. I don't remember if I gave it away, or just trashed it (I took multiple truckloads of stuff to the e-waste place before I moved). It was a really great monitor, but I just didn't have a use for an analog 4:3 monitor anymore.

[@n00blamer]

@@gorak9000 Oh no! I did similar crimes in my past.. regretting now of course xD

[@NaoPb]

Thanks again for all the cool and interesting videos Adrian :)

[@T3hBeowulf]

We had one of these as a kid though I can't say for sure it was a 1084. I do know it had the split Luma/Chroma inputs on the back like you showed but ours was grey with a darker grey border. I remember surprising my parents when I hooked up the VCR to it and played movies. They had no idea the Commodore 64 could do full motion video. 🙃

[@retrobitstv]

The Philip's 1084 is my favorite display for many of the reasons mentioned, but I still learned a lot of new things from this video. Adrian is always a wealth of information. Thanks for sharing!

[@tetsujin_144]

Phil had one? Ha, greengrocer joke. I am a king of comedy.

[@rillloudmother]

@@tetsujin_144 if you are a, 'king of comedy,' DO NOT hookup with sandra bernhard...

[@GeekmanCA]

I can glimpse that you've worn the "Bad Caps" shirt the last couple of second-channel vids. Glad you like it so much. 😄 Hopefully you like the redesign too!

[@adriansdigitalbasement2]

Gives away that I sometimes shoot a bunch of these all at the same time :-)

[@jaycee1980]

1084's and CM8833's are great stuff. Just done my first flyback replacement on a CM8833mk2 which now looks good as new. Not all of the 1084's are made by Philips BTW. Some were made by Daewoo.

[@adriansdigitalbasement2]

I've seen the Daewoo but not this boxy style. Daewoo made ones that looked just like this?

[@jimsteele9261]

@@adriansdigitalbasement2 The model numbers were different. The Phillips ones had a -P suffix, Daewoo had -D . S for stereo in both cases.

[@ON7ARQ]

I am useing my Amiga 1081 for ATV ( radioamateur television ) and made some changes, the front switch for a green screen is used to switch between the cinch input and the scart input, and I put a potentiometer on the front to control the vertical frequency for in case the pic on the screen is scrolling by insufficent syncpulses, therefor delete the instelpot R331 (47kohm), works all the time whithout problem, the switch is used between the local ATV repeater and a direct ATV signal for example during a ATV contest.

[@lexluthermiester]

I had one of those monitors, but mine had the stereo speakers. Used it for console gaming for 6 years. Kinda miss it.

[@thorpejsf]

Adrian, love the stream-of-consciousness format. And love the analog stuff!

[@FightingForceSoulless]

It was a long video, but I enjoyed it. Showing all the testing patterns and explaining NTSC and PAL and S-Video and Chroma Luma and Composite, that was good, but I would have really liked seeing an actual signal connected to it. Be that a VCR, a C64, or maybe something modern with a converter, just to see what it would look like in everyday use.

[@Laura_M-16]

Quite the find!

[@scottgfx]

I have a couple of 1084 monitors. One is the one I bought with my Amiga 2000 in 1990. The high voltage section was arcing and you would hear a snap. Over time it was completely burning the phosphor off of the CRT. "Dead pixels" before it was a thing, I suppose. I was advised to use Corona Dope to paint the high voltage section. It's 30 years now. I think the repair worked. It still works, but now the power switch is stuck on. The other 1084 was one my dad had. It was working fine a few years ago, and then suddenly quit. I haven't thrown it away. I know the CRT is probably fine. I assume it's the high-voltage section.

[@TheBlueCoyote]

ah, that monitor, my dad not only used it on the C64, which he later gave me, he used it hooked up to his IBM-compatible machine, which I have no idea which one of those it was at this time because I was too young to commit that info to memory, but I do remember that monitor all too well.

[@JamesPotts]

I've got 3 1084s with the typical non-working Phillips power switch.

[@techsense1748]

That came with my Amiga

[@jaapverhoeven422]

Not so defensive about NTSC. PAL-colours are more stable as the PAL-standard was established later, they learned from the hue problems with NTSC. The Phase Alternating Line (PAL)-trick fixed that. But by then it was too late to port that back into the already established color NTSC standard. But probably everyone knows that here already :D

[@SenileOtaku]

One of the "alternate" definitions of NTSC was "Never Twice the Same Colour".

[@tigheklory]

Adrian do you know of anyone selling 1702 flybacks? My focus voltage is unstable and it needs a new flyback or a helper flyback.

[@Starcat128]

Cool vid more please 😎

[@SimonSideburns]

"Danger, danger, Will Robinson!" Ah, Lost in Space. Now that was a great series back in the day. I'd hate to see it now though, as I suspect it has aged terribly.

[@mjouwbuis]

The version with the low res CRT might just use a televsion tube, hence the different socket.

[@ropersonline]

34:26: Ackchyually, with dot pitch, smaller is better.

[@raccoon681]

Blue gets a lot of use on a c64

[@tjtarget2690]

Notification Squad! :D

[@douro20]

I believe most of the new replacement flybacks are made in India rather than China.

[@adriansdigitalbasement2]

Good to know! I should probably stock up a few as I assume they will be gone eventually

[@Charlesb88]

10:13 Adrian comments on a “missing” screw. I went back to 8:33 and watched Adrian remove said “missing” screw himself for the second time proving I’m not going insane and yes, I really did see Adrian remove the “missing” screw himself a few minutes prior. I have yet to watch the entire video so I’m going assume you realize that you were the one who removed the “missing” screw by some point towards the end of the video. Rest assured your not alone is this sort thing as we have all been there when repairing something then forgetting what we just did a few minutes later leaving is wondering where’s a screw or “how did that get that way?” and so forth only to realize we removed it/undid it/etc ourselves.

[@the_holy_forestfairy]

I had the 1084s and used it for all Amigas and Consoles (up to PS1!!). One of the best CRTs ever made!! It was manufactured by Philips and Daewoo, the later 1084ST was probably produced by "Likom" (Malaysia).

[@darkstatehk]

I'd love to see a modern ultra-res, high refresh (as far as it can go), ultra-sync CRT display in 2022. Flat glass screen, black phosphor. Mmmmmmm. Edit: Yellowing underneath? Could that be heat related and not light exposure related? Kinda makes sense as some folks de-yellowing in direct sunlight with some success without peroxide. Heat vs light, interesting.

[@technerd9655]

I'd also love to see an ultra high res flat screen with interlaced and progressive scan support, Trinitron type aperture grill instead of shadow mask, thin tube technology (my understanding of the tech when it was cancelled was they had the whole unit including chassis down to under 15cm/6in deep). That with all the relevant analog and digital inputs and picture adjustment knobs (or digital control) would be the ultimate display.

[@--Lam]

I had my Sun GDM-5510 (basically the second highest res/refresh CRT ever made) lose convergence in the corners, so I searched for someone who knew how to fix it. One repair shop recommended another. Second took on the repair and... destroyed it. I mean it, absolutely physically destroyed it, throwing half of the insides away (as well as my special serial programmer that was attached). What the actual fsck. I picked it up "repaired", brought it home and it's absolutely unusable, picture shimmering and jumping around, you can't see a thing (compare to corner convergence problems). I open it up and the RF shield (aka quarter of the weight of this thing ;)) is missing... because they threw it away! WTF?! Sometimes I wish this was the US and I could sue anyone for a million dollars of mental damage. But here, no, obviously there's no market value for a GDM-5510 because they don't exist, so there's no damage to claim. FFS! I had to throw out the remains of the best monitor ever (well it went to the electro-recyclers, but let's face it, all they did is strip the copper and the rest is in the landfill). So anyways, the issue is not that CRTs are not produced anymore. The issue is that people are idiots.

[@Breakfast_of_Champions]

It's amazing that CRT production has shut down completely. I'd bet there is a small but healthy market for reasonable CRTs that sum up all the technological advances at a Sony quality level.

[@SeanBZA]

@@Breakfast_of_Champions There are still a few CRT manufacturers for the avionics and space industries, plus specialist CRT units, but they are both very niche, and tend to smaller sizes. Most commonly they regun and recoat the old CRT's when they fail, and when the old guys who own and run the shop goes they pretty much stop.

[@greendryerlint]

I always liked the colors on CRTs vs other modern 'flat screen' technologies better when it comes to computer monitors. Maybe it's actually akin in some way to how vacuum tubes just have a more mellow sound than transistors, but applied to video. Unfortunately if you tried to make a modern CRT in any size over about 40", it would likely have to have about 3-4' depth and weigh 300 lbs or more from the sheer amount of glass in it, and the required deflection angle. My old 34" Toshiba TV from the CRT age weighed 200 lbs.

[@winstonsmith478]

There are a number of STLs on Thingiverse to 3D print replacement front control doors for 1084 series monitors. With some appropriately colored paint they might look nice.

[@katho8472]

Yep, I was lazy and bought one from eBay like that :)

[@MrJohnnygo]

@@katho8472 You could probably match the colour with the huge availability of resins available these days.

[@DavideNastri]

There is also a nice project to fix the broken hinges in original door

[@lovemadeinjapan]

@@MrJohnnygo Nope, you need to paint it. The original monitor is painted as well.

[@Mrshoujo]

Commodore monitors were so good even Atari owners bought them.

[@bobris]

These videos are great. I recently got a hold of an apple iie system with a disk drive and a iic monochrome monitor. I needed to get the disk drive running again and after googling, I ended up on one of your videos and got it working. Sure enough the monitor needed help too, especially with adjusting the size and shape, and sure enough you had a video for that too! I'm glad to say that my system is now fully operational.

[@DavidRDHeath]

I had the 1081 on my Amiga 500. Such a great monitor. I used to plug the VCR into it to watch movies because it was better than the lougeroom TV (which in our case wasn't much bigger).

[@KingWilliam]

I still have mine1084S for my Amiga 1200. A great monitor. I had used it for ~6 years as a tv connected to a satellite box, but now it's back where it should be.....attached to an amiga. Another great monitor is the 1702. Always wanted one but it was a bit $$ for me at the time so i had to use a b/w tv for the longest time. Just recently got one of those for my C64. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoKpdJiGqJmDeLs

[@DannyBeans]

I wasn't allowed to have a TV in my room when I was a kid, but I did have one of these and an old VCR from back when they still had tuners. I remember using it to watch the premier of Deep Space Nine, despite it airing after my bedtime.

[@TimGladding]

Acorn shipped a version of this monitor called the Acorn AKF11 (with TTL, for the BBC/Master) and the Acorn AKF12, with analogue inputs. That was an option with the Archimedes series.

[@CoockieClassiCKeks]

I really love to watch videos youre talking about CRT's, like monitors or televisions. Please more

[@mightywiz]

i did tv repair for a lot of years. have you used a tube regenerator? like a "sencore cr70". your emission reduce because of carbon build up on the RGB guns. you can actually use the CR 70 to burn off the carbon. and remove shorts that can cause color issues. you can't pick them up pretty cheap on ebay. $200 or so. it will diagnose your tube and tell you what's wrong with it. they make CRT brighteners that actually make the heaters run hotter and will raise the overall brightness on dim screens. if your tube has a short in cathode you can some times remove it with cr 70. if not then the CRT brighteners also have an isolation transformer so you can bi-pass the cathode short. you can test RGB Gun emmissions to see how much life is left in the gun itself. if your doing monitor repair I suggest you get one. Sencore also made a CR7000 which cost a bit more on ebay. I'd even help you learn to use it properly.

[@TheRetroChannel]

Always enjoy a CRT video. I'm surprised it worked first time, both the 1084 and 1081 (same as the 1084 sans chroma/luma input) I have had numerous bad solder joints, mostly around the high heat components like the flyback and HOT. Also both had broken power buttons, they share the same or very similar power buttons to the 1084S-P with the button on the back, so also surprised yours is working. So on one hand that's awesome but on the other there's nothing fun to fix, just the tedious job (for whoever's doing it) of dynamic convergence and a little white balancing

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

My Phillips monitor exactly like the 1084 also has a bad power switch! Do you have a source of a replacement?

[@Wenlocktvdx]

The 1084s were very popular for CoCo 3 back in the day. Many made simple sync combiners but not without the occasional no vertical sync issue. They tended to use a slightly high value resistor in the vertical so a slightly lower value would fix the rolling picture.

[@geofftottenperthcoys9944]

Great little monitor I had for my A600! Even though I am in Australia, it had a SCART connection.

[@TurboCharged_RubberDuck]

The "missing" screw was the one you took out before you started discussing the yellowing plastic on the bottom...

[@xsm5525]

I have two of these, 1 has always worked, but 1 of them broke down in a very bad way. It must have been stored in a damp place (well, it was!) and when on for a while (with Amiga running) I saw smoke come out the top!!! so turned it off quickly! It turns out the orange coil on the yoke burnt out from a damp patch! luckily my dad was patient and fixed the yoke coil by hand!!

[@rimfire2642]

Stereo was 1084S, which IIRC the S denotes stereo.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

One of my neighbors when I was a kid had this exact monitor and he was using it via composite for his NES. Awesome to see it in action again.

[@marksmith9566]

A lpt of VCRs screwed with the sync signals to prevent making copies of prerecorded videos. This may have been a circuit to restore the sync signals so they would properly display.

[@ChrisHarringtonMinneapolis]

Macrovision!

[@MarianneExJohnson]

I used to have one of these, SLIPSTREAM brand, bought it in the Netherlands along with my first C64. It had fewer inputs than the one in the video. I built a cable myself to connect the composite output from the C64's 5-pin DIN to the monitor's composite input, and also connected the audio, and the picture looked excellent, certainly a lot better than what you'd get when you hooked up a C64 to a typical TV's antenna input. I had two problems with it: at one point, one wire in the high voltage circuitry came loose and had to be soldered back on; and the power switch had a mechanical failure so it wouldn't stay down, and I had to get it replaced at a Philips service center. As Adrian mentioned, there are many variations of this monitor, and they don't all use the same power switch. Good times. Got years of fun out of it. It's nice to see that those things are still around and still working. 😊

[@Torch70]

The Magnavox 1CM1352941 is the holy grail of that line. It also has the removable tilt/swivel base. They don't turn up often and I've yet to find a service manual with schematics online. 1084 and CM8833 schematics are only somewhat similar and of little help. It's a really nice monitor that pairs up nicely with my 1000EX. Fine dot pitch and the best convergence I've ever seen on a CRT.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

I have one of the Phillips monitors like this, however it doesn’t have the S video inputs. So I’m wondering if I can find the schematics for each and modify my Phillips to match the 1084 inputs?! I know that the first thing the composite video input comes to will be the luma/chroma separation filters so really all I would need to do is add input Jack’s downstream from the filters. I worked on NTSC video processing circuits for years at Kodak!

[@lovemadeinjapan]

This Philips is a good screen with a pretty decent resolution. Mine still has the door, it had plastic scratch issues, especially the metallic grey ones for the MSX, as they were all painted. So you never need retro-bright. Another thing I don't like is the green primary Philips used, it is more yellow. Trinitrons have a nicer green. But they are not as sharp as this. Weird the SCART RGB was replaced with DIN RGB in the US. Neither of the 2 was a standard there, so why they did not use a single solution is weird to me.

[@fragglet]

I used to have an old CRT monitor where the image would bulge in or out depending on the amount of white on the screen. You could literally see it bulge out just from opening an Explorer window. Glad we have flatscreens now :)

[@runespaans]

Learned a ton from this. A much appreciated walkthrough that made me appreciate my 1084 so much more. Cheers!

[@djpirtu2]

Now I can watch this video because I just got a clean and fully working 1084 CRT. 🥰 It does a little picture "pumping" if there's bright stuff on screen. Gets some waving on the sides too. So caps on the PSU part maybe...

[@vwestlife]

The first computer I know of to have luma/chroma video output was the Atari 800, in 1979.

[@adriansdigitalbasement2]

Yeah that's gotta be the first with it exposed on the connector. I wonder if there was a matching monitor with those connections?

[@TheGreatAtario]

@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Not from Atari, that's for sure. Might have just been some future-proofing or perhaps just-in-case they ever did decide to market one.

[@vwestlife]

@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Maybe commercial broadcast monitors, but nothing sold for consumer use at the time, AFAIK. It was more intended for users to take only the luma output to get a hi-res monochrome signal.

[@knightcrusader]

@@adriansdigitalbasement2 My dad had an Atari 800, he had a Texas Instruments monitor with it. Not sure what model it was.

[@greendryerlint]

@@vwestlife Commercial monitors probably had it, but using BNC connectors.

[@TheKayliedGamerChannel-YouTube]

Reminds me of my old Phillips CM8833 ... was a great monitor... I got it new in 1991... unfortunately it went 'pop' in 2001 so I junked it... maybe a bad move. ✌️

[@ChrisCebelenski]

Earlier revisions (mine was circa 1982) had a different input board, located on the middle right of the back. It had the chroma/luma split jacks, a mono audio in, and the composite/YC switch, but none of the other inputs. This looks much more useful with the RGB added - anyone know when they started doing that?

[@therealjpster]

DE-9, not DB-9! The D-Subminiature B-shell is the larger one used for 25-pin RS-232 and 25-pin Parallel Port. That’s a DB-25. The 9-pin Atari/Commodore joystick and 9-pin RS-232 use a D-Subminiature E-shell, or DE shell. Hence DE-9. The 15-pin PC joystick and Mac LC video use a A-shell - a DA-15. Amiga RGB video is … none of the above? A DB-flat-25? A DB minus minus? en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

[@vk3hau]

8:33 removes the bottom right screw.. also at 10:08 "theres a missing screw, some ones been here already!" are nope, you removed the screw yourself. HiHi.

[@SolvingYourProblemRightNow]

Sadly enough... My dad tossed it and I loved it so much it survived the PS1 Era. I did start to collect Sony Trinitron Cube tv's (pristine condition)

[@timwrich5128]

If anyone has a 1080-1085 monitor for sale message me? I had a Magnavox 1081 iirc and an C64, Atari XE or XT I forget which.. the one with pastel buttons and space invader built in if you pressed random buttons while booting... as well as an NES that we were not allowed to connect to the family zenith console television growing up and want to replicate my childhood system as close as possible.. nostalgia is kicking hard at my door

[@techkev140]

I had the 1084S not sure the difference the S makes, stereo sound?. Really liked it, parted with it when i sold my Amiga A500, replaced it with a Microvitec dual sync for my A1200. I just discovered that company is still going today.

[@DavideNastri]

Hi Adrian! Thanks for all the priceless and lovely info you always share with us and for the relentless work you do for all the retro community. I own a 1084 and I would love to build an adapter to connect scart to its 6 pin din. I know you can put a scart in but I am scared and I'd prefer building a hopefully simple adapter. Do you have any recommendations / suggestions on this topic? I am looking for documentation but I found nothing... Thanks for your kind help :)

[@ropersonline]

5:55: Nitpick: I know "everybody" says it, but "DB9" is technically incorrect. There's DB-25 and DE-9. See Wikipedia on D-sub.

[@andrewdunbar828]

1081 is better. Good luck finding one though. I got one with my Amiga 1000 which I bought secondhand in about 1986. It looks exactly like a 1084 but has a Sony Trinitron tube and the front door never broke like the 1084 one always did.

[@evensgrey]

If you get the color dots on an NTSC monitor, that can also mean that the monitor is operating at 30 frames per second instead of 29l.97 frames per second. When color was overlaid on top of the existing monochrome NTSC system, it was determined that adjusting the speed of the color data could make the dots disappear on monochrome receivers. There were two ways to do that: Reduce the frame frequency from 30 Hz to 29.97 Hz or increase the total scanlines from 525 to 625. Increasing the scanlines would have created backwards compatibility issues on some older sets.

[@lemmingsbeest]

The flyback transformer does not go bad from this type I also have a commodore 1081 and a profex monitor with the same transformer and never had any problems.. The later model with the smaller transformer they are going bad, the philips cm8833 model or the 1084s or the cm8833-II Loose contacts on the solder points from the flyback are the main problems and now also the power switch goes bad..

[@stefanegger]

LOL that I can be alive in this day when he does not complain about the brightness of a monitor (NOTE: There is a button called "Brightness" on most monitors 🤣 USE IT).

[@garyperkins3304]

My 1084S for my Amiga 500 came with a swivel stand, but the angle it rested at was annoying. I suspect most people did what I did and removed it. I could only find one example out of hundreds of images.

[@Midcon77]

Adrian, I love your content - long form, short form, etc. The knowledge you impart is greatly appreciated, even if I don't ever see myself pulling a CRT apart myself! LOL Keep up the great videos! Do what you enjoy, and if that's talking about this stuff a lot, go for it. It makes your channel more approachable.

[@masterchririus]

When I was a kid, mine started failing. It would just go black... The fix? Slap the top of the monitor.. If no color, slap right side of monitor... lol...

[@SimonSideburns]

Looks a bit similar to my Philips CM8833-II. Mine is currently inaccessible in storage so I can't grab it and look properly, but from memory, it seems to ring a bell.

[@c128stuff]

Oh.. and I have a 1084 (similar with the separate rgbi and analog rgb inputs etc, but stereo audio), with the original cover door still intact.. they do exist :-)

[@rillloudmother]

magnetbox, panaphonic, sorny, they all have durable outer casings to prevent fall-apart. william robinson will heed your warnings even if bort does not.

[@snooks5607]

most e-waste places I've heard of will not allow you to take anything away once it's been brought in. which seems weird to me, I thought recycling was good. kinda like this flying thousands of airplanes empty throughout the pandemic because they couldn't be bothered to amend the rules about active flight slots at airports, I guess co2 emissions produced by airplanes wasn't such a big thing after all.

[@CDE.Hacker]

I have to ask, what's your worst shock? Mine is where I accidentally put my middle finger in the CRT of a macintosh plus. That hurt more than a tazer.

[@joestradamus75]

Hi hope you can help. My 1084s monitor has no picture when I turn it on. I can feel static on the screen when I turn it on, and when it turns off. There is NO high pitch wine that I hear. I thought it may have been the Fuse that burnt out for pushing in the power button continuously before, but that wasn't the case, the fuse is fine. When I did turn on the monitor after I replaced the power Button, I did see a horizontal line show up when I was fiddling around with the H and V dials, but that was briefly. I can't get the horizontal line to show up anymore. What should I do?

[@tonybossaller4074]

The 1084 was for the C-128 as the switch would let you swap between CGA and the normal composite/LC donnection. Which was 40/80 modes. The 1084S was for the Amiga which could do a different connector (the rgb port) OR Composite (A1000 or A500 with A520 video adapter). So that’s why some were stereo and some were mono. The mono ones came with the cga cable for the 128 (And Colt PC-10?) while the 1084S came with the normal Amiga video port cable.) I have a 1084S but have had it hooked up to a 128. But had to get cable elsewhere. I had/have an Amiga too.

[@ococococococ]

Hey Adrian! I have a Commodore monitor but I have scratch on the screen. Do you know how can I fix it? Thank you!

[@tecnociclista5342]

Oh man, I had one of those with my Amiga 500. It stopped working at some point and my mum discarded it years later. The Amiga is still working fine now, wish I still had the monitor, I am sure it could have been repaired easily...

[@DavideNastri]

Does anyone know which is a good paint color for the dark grey inner bezel? I cleaned it with alcohol (still crying) and ruined a small part.

[@francistaylor1822]

Just FYI the case was creaky also back in the day. I think its just inherently brittle plastic (at least the one I had, which was a 1084S (stereo model).

[@steveoerkel735]

The Philips comparisons of the 1084 are the 8802, 8833 and the 8833 II. And i own only a 1081...

[@Electrotat]

High pit ch noise from a tv or monitor is from the paper in-between the coils breaking down over time, some used thin paper.

[@tuanbe]

Fixed power input cable. I don't understand the fuzz about the Apple Studio display. It is clearly how things should be done.

[@rikardandersson3584]

my 1084 has scart I'm swe(eu) and Andy king has a vid for scart/rgb mod from 2020.

[@johnsonlam]

I've been using Philips CRT monitor back then, it's quality is quiet good and stable, also got lot of input options, I love it.

[@brady4222]

My cousins had a Commodore 64c with 1541-ii floppy drive and 1802 monitor

[@adambowman1161]

What type of lubrication should you use on that switch? I've got the same issue with my 1902a monitor switch.

[@flyworld9620]

still got my 1084S here. What me always bothered was the fact that I couldnt shift the picture to the lower end of the monitor. there was always a black bar :/

[@adamsmees4250]

i found the s version of this in a dumpster! it had a stand. it worked really well for a couple of days then made a cracking noise and stopped working :( I decided to give it away cos i'm scared of 40k volts so posted on a facebook amiga pages for free if someone wanted to collect it. I expected lots of requests to ship it but the 1st person who replied turned out to live a few streets away!! he was well chuffed and fixed it.

[@parrottm76262]

1084s are the absolute best during its selling period. During any apocalypse, as people recover, always look for old 1084s. They work with most anything! Monitor/CRT discussions are always great. I always learn something.

[@lovemadeinjapan]

I would hunt down a 2008-2009 Panasonic Plasma first, but after that, I guess a 1084 is nice. Those really eat every signal, and show them in the most gorgeous manner: composite, component, 3x SCART (RGB+s-video), 4x HDMI FullHD, VGA, and rusty RF too.

[@albinklein7680]

God damn. I really would like to know how many thousands of hours i sat in front of my 1084S in the 80s/90s. I used it not only for my Amiga but also for watching TV over the TV tuner in my VCR. I still have my 1084S somewhere in my attic.. Edit: Front door is broken, of course.

[@the_jcbone]

Do a stereo mod!

[@kenknight5983]

Would manufacturing these components be possible with crowd funding?

[@christianseifert7852]

My 1084S fails, the flyback transformer died, at the time a new one was easy available at EBay

[@KAPTKipper]

IMO Philips and Sony made great monitors back then. I worked at Kmart Canada in the mid 80's we sold a ton of these, Apple, Atari and other 8 bits owners all bought commodore monitors. They were inexpensive and sharp.

[@ropersonline]

Surely by now someone must be selling replacements for that front door, 3-D printed or otherwise.

[@trojan20112011]

i do have one of the swivel stands for these,wouldnt know where to send the picture though,ill carry on watching the video,im always repairing these monitors

[@cburgess5294]

Adrian, you can buy replacement doors for these monitors on ebay - they are 3d printed and will probably need to be painted to match but they are only 10-15$. Might be nice for a restoration video.

[@adriansdigitalbasement2]

Actually my other 1084 I've shown often has a door I printed myself using STL files on Thingiverse. I'm going to print a new one for this one. (I even have the appropriate rattle-can spray paint that matches nearly perfectly.)

[@keithruhl3545]

Mine unfortunately died. I hear a zeeer sound when powering it on or off. Before it died I noticed that the picture would shrink a bit after it warmed up.

[@JVHShack]

I own a Magnavox Color Monitor 40 and I hope that I can use something from this video when I go to resurrect it.