ADVANCED belay tips 🧗🏽‍♀️ ...to get sendy this fall!! 🍁

Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or setup needed) ***training beanie not included
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BELAY TIPS
0:20 taking quickly
1:12 going in "hard" or "direct" (UK vs US)
1:53 soft catches
4:03 boinking
5:08 top rope swing
5:47 (bonus tip) jugging on a top rope
5:56 slow lower
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And Emile from ​⁠‪@HoopersBeta‬ for the amazing videography!!!
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#climbingbelay #climbing #rockclimbing

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Hope you & your climbing partners get out there and send ALL THE PROJECTS!!! Huge thanks to Emile from Hooper's Beta for filming, and as always, thank you Irena for always being down to help me with my shenanigans (and learning how to use an ascendor on the spot, on camera LOL). Lastly but not leastly, Remember you can get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or setup needed) ➡ l.linklyhq.com/l/1tMaQ

[@blairdowis491]

this was really great as a newer lead climber/belayer. i would love an uncut video of you belaying someone on a climb with a voiceover of what you're doing/why in the moment! similar to the shorts you've been doing with your inner monologue :)

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

This is a great suggestion actually. I'll see what I can do

[@ulrichminky9495]

Back in our early days of climbing (1969ish) we had a few chocks and nuts that we had made ourselves a few store bought carabiners and a 40 meter boat rope. On one of our very early climbs I belayed my partner until he got to a safe ledge. Now my turn. As I climbed onto the ledge there was my partner not tied into the rock not having my rope in his belay device. He was just literally pulling the rope in hand over hand and it was in a pile beside him. We had a few words and I led the rest of the climb. Cheers from Canada. ~ulrich

[@irenaadventures]

My favorite belaytionship ❤

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

🥰

[@DrewNorthup]

THANK YOU FOR DEMONSTRATING PROPER BRAKE HAND TECHNIQUE!! I see sooooo many people, including pro climbers and gym owners, fail to respect the Gri-Gri-the brake hand is not optional, the Gri-Gri is not a magic bullet. Minor critique: Always ask the rope owner before using an ascender and always check with the gym staff before using a draw to project. Some gyms do not permit either, usually for innane insurance reasons.

[@BigBoiClimbs]

As someone nervous about prepping for their first lead test / getting into the world of lead... FANTASTIC VIDEO!!!

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Let's goooo!! These won't be on the belay test I'm sure... but they're useful for when you get stuck into a proj!! And your climbing partners will be grateful you know how to do them

[@ayuminor]

Might want to refrain from pulling the rope straight up like in the first fast take tip at the test specifically. I don't know how it is in the states but here you're never meant to go above horizontal with the break side rope.

[@Brosephu_Brostar]

The editing was on point, especially the transition in and out of the ad

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Eeep thank you! Trying my best to take on relevant sponsors for the channel and also make the ads as entertaining and smooth as possible 😅

[@jakeyeager123]

I lost it when you put beanies on for the hang board 😂😂😂😂

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

I was totally expecting this to be a not-serious video, but everything here is actually great, and surprisingly not talked about that much. Also it's nice that each tip is direct, to the point, and not filled with 10 minutes of filler about how one time you went in direct and then saw bird fly by and ended up contemplating the meaning of life. Also glad you mentioned the ascender with boinking, I was literally about to make that comment. Taking in slack quickly is also a great skill for sketchy falls low down when you do need to give a hard catch. Also some people definitely go too crazy with the slack, so for anyone still reading I'll just say that a dynamic belay is better than absurd amounts of slack (also ledges outside might want to have a word with you).

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Thank you!! Yeah I’ve been training irena and other bouldering friends how to sport climb, but even after they practice for a while indoors (on and off) there are so many little things about the process they didn’t know because they don’t spend much time projecting/ existing on ropes! And yes! Good point about taking in slack quickly for sketch falls 🙏🏽 and the soft J not the “on the ground” J 😂

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

@@AnnaHazelnutt Watching her take in slack, Irena already looks like an expert! Anyway, you're totally right, and I'm gonna send this to several people. A lot of the nuance can take awhile to learn, as well as the technical skills, since many learn-to-lead classes are nothing but the absolute basics. And of course experience is the best teacher too. But guided-experience like this is even better. As you can probably tell, I can write a medium-sized novel about this topic. But I'll restrain myself. 🙃 I've also seen the "on the ground and out the door J" 😅

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

@@Aaron-xq6hv 😂 hahaha omg I could too, so I HEAR you 📚 might do a part two on this topic for how to belay in dangerous situations (ledges when you have to avoid them, close to the ground, etc) so let me know if there's a belay situation I shouldn't miss!

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

@@AnnaHazelnutt I feel very validated right now! From now on, every time I see some sketchy shit in the gym or outside I'm just going to tell myself, "Anna agree with me" and it'll make me feel better about it. 😆 I would totally love that video. I have a feeling that you already know all the important situations, but just off the top of my head, falling while clipping, and just remembering that there is slack on the climber's side too, not slamming your climber into a lip, and I feel like "Slab belay tips" is the most important! (the way I belay on slab is telling my climber, "Hey, don't fall."

[@Mitzbergatc]

This is awesome. So many details that most of us learn from experience but there's no video out there compiling all of this together. Great job! I wish my belayers knew half of this stuff!

[@snezanailic5007]

Anna, great editing like always you are such a talented and lovely lady! So... that was what you and my daughter Irena have been doing that day? You girls are a great team ❤❤

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

haha yes!! We were filming this video while you and my mom were chatting 😂 Irena is such a good climbing/ video/ belay partner!!!

[@leoingson]

Thanks for detailing boinking, I never saw this explained anywhere! Awesome video.

[@PBeetheFox]

As a professional instructor I look forward to my students citing this video when they explain that they should always use a soft catch.

[@brianreyman]

Quality tips for sure, but the best part of the video? Sneaking in "Belationship". Inspired bit of scriptwriting right there :). Also, as a video editor, cutting the fall off the hangboard ad into the fall back in the main content - nice.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

😂🙏🏽 Thank you!

[@kitcft]

My absolute favourite content creator ❤️

[@ricardalisa3122]

Such a fun idea for the ad 😂 it’s rare that i watch the whole thing but you janked me in there and i stayed!! Also the beanies before going onto the hangboard made me giggle ahhaha

[@StopTalkGoPlay]

Nice video. Tips 2 also helps to let the rope "rest" and get elasticity back if you ve taken some fall on your project.

[@killa44beast614]

There’s a special secret technique I learned at the red this spring that’s hilarious. When someone falls on an overhang but it’s almost impossible to boink back up, you get surround climbers(3-4) to come and assist the belayer by all simultaneously holding on to the rope then jump and land together. It works wonderfully. You’ll have the climber back to the wall in no time.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

ahhaha this is amazing!! Another technique Dan showed me was he goes upside down, wraps his foot around the rope like an aerial silks move, pulls himself up so he's standing on it, then unwraps and lets go! It works well if the belayer is floating high above the ground, because the drop is intense 😂 A full body length all at once

[@danielbeall7725]

@@AnnaHazelnuttin hindsight I maybe should have warned you ahahah 😅

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

@@danielbeall7725 😂 It's okayyyy I only slammed onto the ground a littttlleeee bit. I was mainly impressed.

[@blairdowis491]

laughed really hard at "ive always wanted a no drill hangboard before!!"

[@nieziemskim]

In my climbing gym, my instructor told us to always wear shoes while belaying. Why? Because there were many accidents when barefooted belayer hit the wall and broke theirs big toes :/

[@dartleg13]

Can confirm, broke my right toe this way. Shoes can help but paying attention and proper positioning when belaying is key.

[@TheKelso1785]

Best thumbnail everrrr!!!

[@mariamorgado5472]

Muy buen vídeo, definitivamente me ayudará con mi "Belationship" en mi próximo rock trip 🤣🤣 Aunque me hubiera encantado ver uno de como lidiar con tu compañero cuando se encuentra por encima de la chapa y le da miedo caer. "Words to encourage my partner while climbing".

[@liaw.1938]

Just what I needed

[@vincentcolavin]

lmao, i love the performance beanies for hangboarding

[@socalmays]

Does the hangboard come with the mandatory training beanie or is that purchased separately? 😂

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

AHHAAH omg let me write that in the description 😂 *beanie not included

[@mw5360]

Great video.

[@Rock_Appreciator]

I've never used ropes so I don't know a whole lot, but if you rest off the loop mid climb is it still a send? On the walls shown, at least.

[@charcoalhobo]

I don't think I ever expected the words "wireguard" and "docker" coming from this channel

[@ClimbingGirls]

THIS IS THE VIDEO I NEEDED IN MY LIFE RIGHT NOW!🙌 ~ Elle & Teresa

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Yes!!!

[@MissKriekentaart]

Does the hangboard come with one of those hats?

[@vlaaady]

Do they also provides hats so your head won't hit the ceiling hard?

[@courtclimbs]

Fun fact, I’ve met that Fosberry guy, gave him a high five 🙌

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

WOAH! No way? I did high jump in high school and thought that the backwards jump was the coolest thing haha

[@ollieb9875]

Extra slack doesn't make a softer catch, only a longer fall, because there's no fiction it's exactly the same as falling from higher above the bolt. Arguably then it might give more time to react though more importantly yes, don't short rope your climber when they're trying to clip ❤

[@samuelzachary8396]

I actually watched though the ad. I NEVER watch through the ad, lol. im an ad skipper normally.

[@carlosdumbratzen6332]

shoes?

[@phillippearce9680]

👍

[@seanmcguire61]

So is it important to wear a beanie when hang boarding? 🤔

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

it's actually essential.

[@AlmightyUniden]

Is that straight cement below the routes at your gym? What the hell. I'm not saying it should have pads like in a bouldering gym but ours have a 2 cm thick hard foam in case you slip early

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

We like to live on the edge

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Jk they’re pads don’t worry

[@chuffer595]

You can actually make decking from high up fairly safe with stiff, thick, padding. If there's enough padding to sink in a bit, it can turn a broken tailbone into a bruised one, or a broken leg into a broken ankle. Obv depends on the situation, but I wish more gyms (especially European ones) padded more. Definitely not softer padding, just thicker.

[@Dani_rohr_]

🙈😩😍

[@thejerkyshack8040]

I really appreciate the effort she puts into her ads. They're always hilarious.

[@RadicalFN]

I have no one to bellay me so I just use auto belley

[@kwcnasa]

I bet you can't send this, Anna. ‘Real-life Spider-Girl’ watches TV from ceiling from South China Morning Post, published on 2023SEP25.

[@drstrangelove85]

Great video and great fun! I don't know what is better but keep in mind that there are opinions, which I share, that more slack just let the climber fall more and nothing else. A soft catch would come from the right timing of the jump, not from slack. There is a demonstration of this here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6XWdJWfot13pLs Again, I don't know what is true and I know that there are associations recommending to belay with the soft J but in my point of view, with larger falls and bigger differences in weight it can get really nasty.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

There was a Reddit discussion on this exact thing and you’re totally right. At first I thought having more rope out would create a bigger lift for the belayer resulting in a softer catch, but I think this only applies to a very limited amount of cases(?) I like the J to help get the timing right (I feel like the extra bit of time falling/ force from having more slack in the system cues the belayer really well). Of course, the size of the J will vary on the situation at hand, but I think it’s good practice and helps give a more consistent soft catch, most of the time 👍🏽

[@ingridk2469]

I think when the climber has just clipped and is very close to the bolt, a soft J really does help. If your climber is super fast (maybe send attempt?) The soft J helps make sure you don't short rope them. In both cases, you need to reassess if there is a ledge or other outdoor hazard! But personally, if my climber's feet are above the last clip, I usually try not to have any excess slack in the system. A soft catch will be more about the timing and weight difference

[@paulgaras2606]

If that boink footage doesn’t become a short, you’re fired from social media.

[@PapP148]

For free?

[@jean-francoisburdet4458]

belayer should wear shoes.