Affordable G-Scale Points/Switch/Turnouts from TrainLine45 REVIEWED

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Update. I forgot to mention in the "geometry" section, the rail is Code 332 which is the same size as LGB, Piko G and USA Trains.

[@lgbman]

Brilliant review! I have been using LGB points (over 50 of them) exclusively with about half being down for almost 25 years. Very few long term issues other than some continuity issues which I solved with some soldered jumper wires.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

We have a few LGB points too - mostly R3 with 4 R1s in the terminus station. The R1s I had from being a kid and the R3s were almost all bought second hand. Similar to you, I've had few issues. The main issue has been similar to the TrainLine45 with continuity - flipping them over I found the soldered connections had failed and it was an easy fix to reattach them! What I do love about the hobby is the longevity of the equipment!

[@lgbman]

So true. Usually pays to buy quality products. Best wishes from Canada.

[@rustyc521]

@@lgbmando you have a video or could you share where you put the jumper wires on the LGB points please? Thank You sir!

[@johndunford6082]

Hi Curtis, nice review. I have used predominantly TL Rad 2 points though I do have a curved one, this had a reed switch for frog polarity change that got trashed on a short caused by a train going over it the wrong way Doh! As for you tarnished underneath brass contacts, LGB Graphite paste should help with that issue. On one of my outside points I have had screws coming loose on the moving rail where it pivots for changing. A bit of Locktite in the thread when fixing in the screw hole should prevent that in the future. screws loose. Re the frog shorting out, I have also had this issue with LGB R3’s and resorted to the bending of skates as you did. Glad you suggested removing before bending, I have known others that do not bother which is a very risky way of doing it. Best regards, Dunnyrail.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Thanks, Dunny. I'm guessing that's why the tie bar looks like it is designed for circuitry (but there isn't there). I'm guessing they removed that in a later iteration? I've not been able to find any LGB graphite paste - it seems that Marklin discontinued it but I'm open to suggestions if you know any. A couple of the other comments recommended carbon filled conductive crease and copaslip which I'll look into too. Also appreciate the warning on the pivot points. I hadn't noticed that yet but something I'll look at when going through the maintenance to save future headaches (I don't fancy the idea of trying to find the screw in the free floating ballast! Hmm, interesting. I assumed that the shorting wouldn't be an issue for the LGB points because we do have a number of them on our main line and hadn't run into the issue. Sounds like the issue is about more than 2mm though! Regarding bending the skates - the plastic structure around them seems a lot weaker than it's metal counterpart so wasn't going to take the risk!

[@jeffreygriffith6399]

Nice assessment. Appreciated!

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Sorry for the slow reply, Jeffrey. I hope it was useful. I do need to do an update as I've found another niggle which only manifested after a year or so. Very solvable but something to be mindful of.

[@jimprior180762]

Interesting, you have confirmed my thoughts about bending the pickup shoe upwards slightly to prevent frog shorting.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Indeed. Ensure you take the skate off first though as you risk damaging the plastic on the body

[@lgbman]

Excellent review. Thanks!

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ThatBIGTRAINGuy]

This is your first video of this kind, isn't it? Nailed it!!! 👍 I have LGB currently. But when I get to build something more permanent I'm interested to look at different track, - something with a more 'scale' rail code. So that'll be interesting.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

It is! I did one a few weeks back with a bit of a walkthrough of jobs to be done but this is the first review / sharing thoughts directly so thank you! I realise how I never said it was code 322 - I guess you’re looking at 250 for your grand plan? I’ll be honest, I always think 250 looks great but I appreciate the accessibility and range of 332 stuff!

[@ThatBIGTRAINGuy]

@@hsbagardenrailway Yeah, there are pros and cons to all our decisions. Availability is definitely NOT the reason I chose Accucraft, AMS and Bachmann Spectrum models 😂

[@hsbagardenrailway]

@@ThatBIGTRAINGuy 😂😂 That's fair. Honestly, I pick my battles living in (old) Jersey - certainly reduces the number of retailers that will ship to us but I've not got a small selection I can go to.

[@martinbateman2467]

Nice review. Have you ever tried Theil points?

[@hsbagardenrailway]

No, I haven't Martin. Only TrainLine45 an LGB. I believe Robert from @SUMMIT RAILWAY uses Theil on his layout though.

[@ramonennik2536]

Any experience with the e curved one? I noticed my Harz loco (lgb 2080s) does not like the frog or some place close to it, it get pushed out of the rails, bumps a finally gets back in place. In the other direction (from the single track towards the frog) the front guide wheel get pushed out. The same thing happens with my marklin gauge 1 BR 78 when pulling a heavy load. All my gauge 1 and LGB freight and passenger cars run totally fine in both ways. Also I have bought the straight long switches, they run just fine.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Not the ones from TL45 - just the Piko ones which in had some problems with - but mostly with them holding the gauage/spacing. I can't think of similar issues I've had. May be worth posting on gscalecentral.net to see if others have?

[@munkeyWITHbeard]

A wee spot of some carbon filled conductive grease might help with keeping to corrosion down on those screws

[@jimprior180762]

I use a similar product from the car industry called Copaslip (by Molyslip) high temperature anti-seize compound. It's a grease with fine copper filings in it. Helps with conductivity, corrosion, oxidisation and lasts quite a long time in different weather conditions.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

@@jimprior180762 thanks for the tips, both! There are 2 more points that have started to fail. I may try these approaches on those and see how long they hold out. Good learning opportunity!

[@dwaynejohnson4892]

In your opinion… are these as good as LGB?

[@hsbagardenrailway]

This video is due an update - having had them outside for a couple of years they're okay but they need additional work. I found another problem which is the electrical contacts under the switch aren't soldered but screwed requiring extra maintence. Looking at prices now (Jan 2025), these switches are €69 vs €89 (LGB) - those are without motors. If you want motors, assuming an LGB motor drive that's +€38 (€105) vs LGB all-in €129. So it's about 17% or €22 cheaper per switch. Are they 'as good', I'd probably say no. I've definetely had to do more work on them than with LGB and that has been a slow learning curve. However, I've got the point now where I know their issues and have addressed them and they work fine. Would I recommend them to friends/other modellers. I would for -certain- individuals - those looking to save money but with a list of recommended tweaks/fixes they should make before using them. If they're willing to invest that time (and have the skills/interesting to it), I think they're a good addition. Sorry, long answer but I hope it helps.

[@jereffuse]

I've burn all my loco decoder with those

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Oh dear! I've not blown any decoders (my central station cuts outs first). How did you solve them?

[@olelauridsen666]

Wery poor video.

[@hsbagardenrailway]

Can you provide a little more feedback on why you found the video poor so I can improve it for next time?

[@dwaynejohnson4892]

Very poor comment