AK-917 Rc Car rebuild part 1, Will it Make it to stage 2?

[@reitplace4765]

Great update, rebuild, process.. Thanks for sharing brother👍Thats crazy bone dry.. Tolerances must be tight..

[@BNVRC]

Yea… it’s a bit strange… the front one had a tiny bit…. Putting 1 million in it now. Thanks for watching brother! I appreciate you!

[@reitplace4765]

@@BNVRC Right on I thought I was watching a wltoys video for a second there haha..

[@BNVRC]

@@reitplace4765 lol… right!

[@micron3268]

You could always cut the chassis under the motor like I did for my TP motor. You may have thought about that already and I get it if you don't want to go that route! Great video and I sure hope you get it done in time for second round 👍

[@BNVRC]

yea....thought about it, i decided to go with a 1412, i can use the 1515 in another project...lol i should get a run it tomorrow....hopefully

[@BNVRC]

I’m also thinking of the aluminum chassis car…. Cutting a hole in that one and using it. Just to see what it will do…. Speed contest will be over by then… lol

[@micron3268]

You may even get by without going all the way through the chassis by the looks of it!? Mine is a 40mm can and I didn't need to go all the way through but I did anyway. @@BNVRC

[@BNVRC]

Nice… that would be even better!

[@alfredyost7972]

Maybe you can add shims under the mount? You would have to check to see if shimming the motor mount causing binding in the drive train. Thoughts?

[@BNVRC]

I thought about shims but I don’t think I could get it sorted in time to make a run for stage 2…. I thought I had more time… lol

[@BNVRC]

I decide to go down to a 1412 motor… it fit perfect… hopefully it will not over heat!

[@ninthislandrc]

First the "factory caused" problems & solutions...then I'll cover your upgrade ideas. As many have discovered, the factory didn't exactly properly fill the diffs or shocks (truthfully, many have also found screws without Loctite, screws not completely tightened, and so forth). That's why I've constantly recommended checking EVERYTHING on the vehicle. Make sure all screws are tightened. Check all metal-into-metal screws (except those going into Nylock nuts), to make sure they've been properly threadlocked. Check all shocks & diffs, to see if they were filled. As for fluid viscosity, yes, it's WAY to low for speedrun (and drag) use. If I remember correctly, the diffs only have 20K, and the shocks 35wt. Realistically, the front diffs need to be a minimum of 1M (I'm running approx 25% 1M & 75% 500K, but only because I ran out of 1M). 2M would be better (20M, for a 1/10, is overkill). For the rear, 100-500K if running 1M in front...or 500K-1M if running 2M in front. As for shocks, that's entirely up to your preference (I'm running 50wt front, 80wt rear). That should be it for the "factory caused" problems. Now, as for your problems (no, not referring to crashing...lol), as several of us have pointed out in the FB groups, and o/l forums, if using the Rlaarlo motor mounts, it's impossible to just want motor with a can larger in diameter than 36mm. With the Adjustable Motor Mount as the way out, the center of the motor shaft is 19mm above the chassis. That means, IF there were any motors with a 38mm diameter, that motor would be resting on the chassis...thus, anything larger than 38mm will NOT fit IF using the Rlaarlo motor mounts. The 'solution' is to use (as discovered by someone else) a motor mount designed for the Hobao VTE2, which positions the motor's shady higher than the center of the spur. Unfortunately, even this 'solution' had a problem - it positions the center of the spur 1.25mm higher than the center of the AK-917's spur. To "solve" this problem, there are two solutions. The first is to use spacers/shims, to raise the front & rear bullheads, and center driveshaft support, up 1.25mm. However, this solution also raises the shock towers, body posts, and upper suspension arms up by 1.25mm, which could (not saying 'would', only 'could', as I haven't tried this solution) possibly cause other problems. The second option is to cut off 1.25mm from the bottom of the VTE2 motor mount...but, this MUST be done with proper machinery. This is because, is the removed material causes the motor mount to be off PERFECT upright position, it WILL cause other problems. I know this was a LOT of info, and VERY long reading...but, at least it explains everything you need to know, including options, and problems that could be caused. The mission is yours, should you choose to accept it. 🤙🏼

[@BNVRC]

lol...mission accepted....kinda decided to go with a 1412, picked up some 1million at the hobby store, now in re assembly mode

[@ninthislandrc]

@@BNVRC I'd say, "fan-friggin-tastic"...but, I'll all honesty, I was hoping you'd be able to use that motor. But, if not, you can always give it to me...I'll use it in my 2nd AK-917. 😁

[@BNVRC]

Lol…. Well… I still have a second one with a metal chassis, begging to have a hole cut in it….😂

[@ninthislandrc]

@@BNVRC Probably not a smart idea, as you'd have to cut a pretty sizable opening, plus the motor would be very-well exposed to the ground below, opening the possibilities of motor damage. I'm 99.9% certain you don't want to purposely cause damage to a motor...right?

[@BNVRC]

Nope… that’s why it’s not going in this build….😩

[@rayswinford5691]

I had to go with the 1415 it’s what I had on hand

[@BNVRC]

Had to go with the 1412, that was the only one they had that would work! Now to put it all back together!

[@rayswinford5691]

My diffs were almost empty I put 1million in rear and 20million in front ran out of 500,000 so that’s what I used to keep the front straight

[@BNVRC]

Thanks, I just got some 1 million I’m going to put in the front and leave 100k in the rear…. Hopefully that helps!

[@mortonbeard2240]

Shave the chassis and ac glue the shaved area.

[@BNVRC]

I will check that… it would be nice to get that motor to fit for sure!