You Wouldn't Download A Car... BUT I 3D Printed One!

[@AnthonyBabcock]

Normal CA glue will work the keep the tires on the rim and there is also RC specific tire glue which is modified CA glue with varying thickness for better flow control. One tip for gluing your tires is to put a band or some sort of strap cinched down in the center of the tread all the way around to make sure the bead presses outwards for a good seal.

[@AaronTheGeek]

CA on the tires is as must.

[@Jbzy3000]

This is what I came to say 😊

[@JetlaggCreates]

came to the comments to say this too.

[@John_Mack]

As a 3d printer guy and a r/c guy, I think this is pretty cool. Especially for your kids who will break it over and over again, then you just print new parts and fix it. Brilliant!

[@Lil_Nuggy243]

As the kid that will somehow break this I see it as a win

[@mafofpv4394]

i work in an rc hobby shop so i might be able to help you a bitt Power issue: Your battery is a 2s lipo you probably want a 3s you get 1/3 more power KV on an 3 leaded rc motor is thousands of revolutions per volt. 1kv is 1000rpm when the motor is unloaded (not that simple but you get the idea) It also looks like the motor is an odd choice for an rc car of this size and weight. it might just be too small. those kind of motors are mostly made for drones and boats. The difference will also steal a far bitt of power in corners. its a reason even 99$ cars have open diffs. Tire and suspension issue: Gluing RC tires is the norm. they should be glued into place or you rim might rotate in the tire. or the rubber might just explode on some more powerful models and you can often program the servos and how far they move. some are limited to 45 degree some are limited 180 degree of rotation. it seems like they only do about 45 degree. i think that's a programing issue or a part choice issue. The spacers you made should probably have been there from the beginning. there are no reason for them to be loose. Edit: Bad spelling, English is not my first language

[@MandicReally]

Thank you for the input. I will look at whether I can reset the Servos to move to say 90 degrees. It does appear like they are only turning 45 degrees currently. The rear works better than the front though, so I may have some suspension bind too. Might just need some serious break in time. Thanks!

[@abeardedbucket]

I'll agree that all of this is probably the case, the one exception is the use of the outrunner motor but still a questionable choice here given everything else. Outrunners are often used on rockcrawlers with either low kv or much higher gear reduction and volting up like you mentioned going to a 3s or even higher battery but then that esc is a poor choice to do that since its capped at 3s. I do also wonder if the reason for the beep warning may have been a config issue since it probably came setup for NiMH, also it sounds like the battery charger may have been misconfigured since a 2s lipo should be charged to like 8.4v or around 4.2v/cell.

[@MandicReally]

@@abeardedbucket I will check these things. The Charge came with zero instructions so I've been fumbling my way through that. I need that same 2S battery for my upcoming DeathRacer build so I need to figure it out soon. I will dig more into configuration as I have time. The body is only designed to accept a specific sized 2S or 3S battery. The way you have to insert it into its compartment, nothing bigger will fit. So I imagine that is part of the configuration choice with all the parts. I was half tempted to start looking for a different drive system. Something I didn't mention is the entire gearbox and motor are only held to the chassis with those 2 screws in that crossmember. It seemed... lacking, to me. It really felt like the motor end should have a support as well.

[@nerobro]

@@MandicReally you can really Lego up the primary drive pretty easy. There is.even a good printed solution. The club race hero is a pan car, and the rear pod of that could be dropped in under your hood, and if you put a carden joint on the driveshaft it would fit right in. You'd also end up using a conventional inrunner motor that handles non quadcopter applications better. The advantage of the pod, is you can use pinions and spurs that are $3-10 each to get the ratio you want.

[@Hilmi12]

@MandicReally the low voltage alarm is programmable on the remote. Instructions are a bit intimidating for an RC newbie, but you should be able to figure it out

[@RBallarddesigns]

3dSets are totally worth it. The attention to detail is wild. I have the Sandy and right now I just have it as a shelf queen but it is awesome. Great project for a parent/kid time

[@pixel_vengeur391]

The "KV" rating for an electric motor indicates how many (thousand) revolutions you get per Volt injected in it, hence the k - V. For example, a 2000 kV motor will do 2000 RPM at 1 Volt, 10.000 RPM at 5 Volt (1000 x 5), and 40.000 RPM at 20 Volts (20 x 2000). The one you got from RCPrinter is a 1400 kV, so 1400 RPM at 1V, 7000 RPM at 5V, 14.000 at 10V, and so on and so forth. The reason for this rating is that these motors can usually be driven with varying voltages. For example, the 1900 kV motors I use on my drone are rated for a range of 11.1V - 22.2V, which means that the effective RPM range is ~21000 - 42.000. It's not the easiest of measurements to get a grasp of, but it has the merit of being descriptive as to what it is. EDIT: you might see others talk about your battery in terms of "a 2S battery". The "S" rating is the amount of cells in series in the battery. Your battery is a 2S, which means it has 2 cells in series, for a total of 7.4V nominal. Each Lipo cell has a nominal voltage of 3.7V. A 3S battery is (3 x 3.7V =) 11.1V, a 4S is 14.8V, a 6S is 22.2V nominal. Your motor is rated for up to 3S, so you could swap the battery for a more powerful 3S battery.

[@MandicReally]

Yep, I think I'm gonna go to a 3S battery and see how it goes. Thank you for the detailed explanation.

[@isblue8504]

You should be able to put a 3S battery in it to speed it up - 11ish volts. The other thing id mention is its super common for the tyres to be glued onto the rims - helps with them rolling off or expanding and coming off.

[@MandicReally]

Thank you. I see some CA glue and a bigger battery in my near future!

[@zacharyvolney3151]

​@MandicReally try charging the battery. 7.4 volts is the nominal voltage for a 2s lipo. At fully charged, a 2s lipo should be 8.4 volts. I am experienced in rc as I have been racing rc cars and flying drones for years. I will agree that the motor might be a little underpowered compared to the average hobby grade rc, you don't want to go overboard with motor kv or voltage because the heat produced can cause the 3d printed parts to soften and deform. If you charge the lipo fully, that might help with power to the servo. Additionally check to see if the esc has something called an adjustable bec. If you can try increasing the bec voltage as that will increase the power to the receiver and the components connected to it.

[@Brocknoviatch]

The speed looks right to me with the intention of not destroying the car. Faster motor can strip the gears and break other components of the drive train if they are 3d printed. When it crashes it will destroy something major, like an axle and definitely the body. I have broken every part of my 3d printed truggy because of using a fast motor. I changed to metal diff and drive train to be able to cope with the forces.

[@MFshoe]

I think you nailed it with this. between the small motor and 2s battery, this is designed for show not go. I have spent a lot of money replacing, diffs, trans gears, drive shafts and so on for dedicated injection molded RC cars with RPM hop ups that still break. as much as i'm enjoying 3d printing and would love to do something like this, i don't know that aside from some of the more expensive filaments with a very high infil, that 3d printing is quite ready for the absolute carnage of a proper 1/10 or larger set up with higher powered batteries.

[@3DPrintSOS]

I freakin LOVE 3DSets. I’ve built a few and they are so damn fun. Especially, when you over power them a bit. ;) The Max 4x4 is calling my name. Also, a bit of super glue on the bead of that tire is all you need. Standard stuff with RCs. :) It came out great.

[@kerrigreen2626]

Love this video, using printing to produce something and talking about a new printer too.

[@MandicReally]

Thank you very much. I think it’s way more interesting than just a quick video listing marketing specs. But I’m probably biased. 😅😅

[@DVisuaL-16]

Finally someone that gave the time to print. I bought a 3d printer and didn't realize how long they take to print and time to CAD a custom piece. To everyone that's thinking to 3d yes absolutely it's awesome but be prepared for a tremendous amount of learning and patients. In the end yes you can make just about anything you can think of...... If you learn and develope PATIENTS a lot of PATIENTS. I don't beleive it when I say Patients. Did you here how long it took for 1 car and it wasn't even sanded paint polished. That one rc car will take months to fully complete.

[@jpmpro2000]

Pro tip, CA glue the tires

[@2007Zee]

I was going to say that too.

[@Shaggywasntme27]

Thanks for the tip about the supports! never really thought about that

[@ScytheNoire]

As a model, it's awesome. I love large scale models. This one looks badass. As an RC car, it leaves a lot to be desired, and do not hit anything or wipe out. You can get amazingly durable and fast RC cars these days. In the old days, we'd use tire glue to hold on tires, so could get that from your hobby shop.

[@MandicReally]

Yea, it is definitely going to be more delicate. That said, you are always a couple hours of printing away from a replacement part. No ordering and waiting, just slicing and waiting. They do include every component's individual STL for that very reason.

[@ollierinko9387]

I started my RC hobby with the 3D Sets Model 9 Bamboo, and relatively quickly went ahead and bought an actual Axial SCX10 III Base Camp builders kit and some off-the-shelf electronics from my local shop. Ended up 3D Printing a body for it, which has worked wonderfully (even if it makes the build a *bit* top heavy :D). I'm running mine on 2.2" beadlocks. I like being able to easily change my tires without having a spare set of rims. My first upgrade was to order 2 AR45P *Front* portal axles, flip the gears in one of them and set up a lifted platform rear-steer crawler.

[@Carenthusiast1234]

For the front tires, get some tire glue made by proline, they are made to stick to plastic and rubber, thats what everyone uses, its pretty much mandatory, you should get a 540 motor, 540 means the size of the motor, get a brushless motor, that will definitely give it tons of power

[@RIBsfit]

I work for the company that makes those tires. They are meant to be glued to the wheel.

[@Сосискыч]

I love 3d sets projects. I made several cars. They are very thoughtful, quite detailed. And of course you can do custom tuning with a 3d printer

[@madmoddedmustangs8300]

Nice job it looks awesome I own a lot of hobby grade rc and this video makes me want to buy a printer and build one my self

[@logmegadeth72]

I’ve done a couple “open source” 3D printed RC cars and sometimes the design leaves a lot to be desired. So paying for the 3D Sets files seems to definitely be worth it for the well thought out design and assembly! I might have to check them out for my next project.

[@ToddRafferty]

I love all the extra credit text in the subtitles. LOL. Thank you!

[@ToddRafferty]

** Marginally Aggravated Bees **

[@3dmedicvince449]

This was a great video and project to watch. You're doing really well with the videos, and honestly, I could watch an hour-long video mainly because you do such a great job with the storytelling, and your voice and audio sound so good. I do like the choice of colors and agree the High Five Blue was a good choice.

[@BeardedPrinter]

The high five blue is such a beautiful color! good choice!

[@MandicReally]

Thank you! I gave it a total of 10 seconds of thought before I knew which color I was using. I'm not a big Blue person but it just made sense here.

[@chrispritchard7977]

I have been eyeballing trying one of these I greatly appreciate this video and your feedback.

[@GhostRyderFPV]

My dude, great video! I'm a drone and RC guy, maybe I can help. I think you may have not been told these steps you'd normally do with a new RC build: Calibrate ESC: watch a YT video on this, it lets your ESC know what your min/max PWM signals are on your throttle channel. Important for speed, and, errr, stopping. Endpoint adjustment: This is a setting for each channel you're using on your RC6GS Transmitter. It's the min/max travel for each channel, in your case, how much travel you'll get from each servo. You may need to adjust your endpoints for your suspension servos if they're not turning enough. It's called "EPA" in your RC6GS, and you'll probably be adjusting CH3 and 4 min and max throws. Leave "Null" in the "SW" area, so your settings aren't changed via a switch.

[@JiggsHenry]

I am almost finished building their Model 16 Landy Winch Truck! So excited to see a KZbinr FINALLY showcase their models! I'm going to watch this video all slow and sensual-like. 😂

[@John_Mack]

Also you can super glue the tires to the rims. We do this in the r/c world a lot.

[@shadir007]

Wow dude! You took me back. I remember wanting the Scorcher for Christmas. 🤣

[@MrPlatinum831]

3d sets cars are so nice i just finished the landy wagon and car trailer just about to start on a sakura build

[@WillWinter991]

As an rc guy who also has 2 bambu labs x1c I can help a bit, KV is a bit misleading as it stands for Constant Velocity/V so a bigger battery with more voltage would definitely help or even a higher amperage motor controller would help if the motor is rated for it. Also CA glue will fix your tire issue, being the wheels are 3d printed id recommend scuffing them up a little first with some sandpaper.

[@3Dsjk]

30+ year R/C vet here, so I sound like I know what I’m talking about most of the time. I am not very familiar with those out-runner style motors, but the motors and electronics called for in some of the 3DSets builds seem a little underpowered to me. The lack of power is probably a combination of gearing and motor compared to the weight of the car. Three belts seems excessive to me too, a lot of extra drag and rotating mass. That is also a really big car for a small motor and battery, and the extra material you used probably adds quite a bit of weight. It looks about the size of a conventional 1/10th scale off-road buggy, they use the same size tires, and even the most basic of those should do 20-25 mph. For the rims and tires, you need an inner ring to clamp the tires to the wheels. Look at the Associated RC10T 3-piece wheels to see how it works. Or glue the tires as other people have said. Those Hoosiers are very grippy tires, so you need a fair bit of power to break them loose, even on wet asphalt. Overall this looks like a great build, if a bit over engineered. 3D printed cars are capable of some pretty good performance, but those tend to follow conventional designs. I’d like to see the option of printing a simplified version, with some of the multi-piece assemblies printed in one piece (such as the suspension wishbones), and the option to bolt in drivetrain parts and motors from regular R/C cars.

[@jeffl6394]

Glad I saw this video, because that site has an A-Team van. My official next project. Thanks. lol

[@markmorgan8378]

Welcome to PNW, Awesome project and I do love ProtoPasta as well.

[@SkeeterPondRC]

The low rider servo needs to be a 120 or 180* servo. You have a 90* servo. You can try to adjust the end point in the Tx to get some extra swing. It doesnt look like it is too weak. The servo is only turning 45* instead of 90*. Servos are rated at the +/- degree. So a 90* servo only turns 45* in + and 45* in -. You would want 120 or 180* servos so you have more sweep (60 or 90* in each direction). Failing that, you could also set the - end point to be the starting position so you would have 45+45 (45 back to 0*, and 45 to the positive end stop). Since you dont need the reverse travel (the truck is only lowering, not lower and raise above ride height).

[@JetlaggCreates]

If you want some more power. Your best bet is replacing one of the gear reductions to a 1:1. Looks like it takes off just fine. Just has a reduction with a really low top end, or a higher RPM motor at the rated Volts.

[@kaossssss]

I was SO waiting for something like this! but following the philosophy of the lifesize working benchy, we really aren't far from printing a car. we just wouldn't use 3d printing for the frame but everything else will be a reality soon

[@MandicReally]

Maybe someday I can justify such a thing. Maybe. Someday. Ha

[@kaossssss]

@@MandicReally someday and 530 plates later.... 🤣

[@dc9808]

loved seeing this, you really did suffer from lack of expertise on the rc side but you got through it... by the way that looks to be modeled after an early 50's Chevy truck which was my 1st vehicle handed down to me from my Dad... I promptly stuck a 429 caddie in it.

[@mikehensley78]

I mess with a lot of hobby RC cars/trucks. We super glue the tires to the rims to prevent the tire slipping on the rim. Dude, this is an AWESOME project!!! I want one. the motor KV rating is basically RPM per volt... 2000 KV on a 2s battery will spin around16,000 RPM...(2000 x 8 volts = 16,000RPM). lower the KV means lower RPM but higher torque... higher KV rating means higher RPM but lower startup torque... the little motor used is a drone motor. they are typically low torque high RPM. i am def gonna have to check out the models on that site. the battery is a huge part of performance too... angry snail or Ovonic or Hoovo LiPo brands are ones i have used and are great, high current batteries.

[@mikehensley78]

so if you have a 1400KV motor on a 2S pack...your motor is right around 11,000 RPM when the battery is full. i really wanna see one of these models with a 3650 size 3400KV or 3900KV motor.

[@TNTBA]

What a neat project. I would totally be interested in trying something like this!

[@g.s.3389]

beautiful project. bravo!!!

[@alphaforce6998]

Your tire issue is easily fixed by gluing the tire to the rim using CA glue. This is standard practice with RC cars, so no need to redesign the rim. Just use glue. Wheels and tires in RC are considered consumables for the most part. Your decorative fuel tank issue can be resolved with a couple zip ties. Your solid diff won't be an issue for low-speed activities and this model is clearly not intended for racing. The only thing that I'd say is pointless is the 3-speed gearbox. Electric motors don't need one in this kind of application as their torque output is not depending on RPM as it is with gas or nitro motors. If this was a nitro-powered car then the gearbox would definitely be a nice touch. That being said, if someone was going to build this they could just connect the motor directly to the drive shaft, bypassing the belt and gear assembly altogether to save time, effort, and money.

[@fumanseano2846]

Make sure you adjust your servo endpoints! Those servos should be powerful enough to raise the ride height. Also most rc cars use ca glue to attach the tires to the rims. Cool lookin build!

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great film. Cool project.

[@jtclark5274]

Be very careful. 3D printed RC's are VERY addicting. I started with the Buggy from 3DSets, and before I knew it, I was making boats (HMS Dreadnaught is my next one). And now I'm making planes (just finished my second one, the Eclipson Model B). 😉

[@circleofowls]

Love this, great project and fantastic video. New sub. The issue you encountered with the tall prints and small bed contact area is one of the largest drawbacks of the "bed-slinger" style printers. It's just not a great mechanism for some geometries. Rotating the parts on the bed to align the length of the print with the direction of the Y-axis can help but only so much. The 3D Sets models seem to be really well designed, I've had my eye on the Sakura 240 model forever, this might just push me over the edge to buying it.

[@figuresix]

Dude, I live in PNW and been 3d printing for 5 years. Never heard of protopasta and ya got me all excited.. UNNNNNNTIIIIIIILLLLLLL found out its in Vancouver. Not gonna drive over 200 miles for filament. But nice to know if im in that area to go check it out.

[@blaccteezy]

Glue the tires. I have a project rc Bed Dancer 1/10 Nissan Hardbody that I created. Highly detailed and it’s got a lot in common with this build. But mines has much more detail and metal plated parts that I created. This is cool. Took over a year to create all of the files to build something like this

[@JPSkriP]

Use some CA-Glue, but not krazy glue, cuzz that will make the tires brittle and break. But u can get some thicker CA Glue for mounting tires to the wheels. Thats a norm we all do on all our RC's its the only way to keep the tires on, unless actual beadlocks!! Contact cement also works well, has some flexible give and wont hurt the rubber.

[@AllTheNamesWereInUse]

You should use prusa slicer for both machines to compare... Ive noticed orca tends to do strange things to parts you expect to look good..

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Very Impressive ! Great video on the Sobel printer and the RC Truck. As another car nut and builder and racer I can see myself building a few of these to replicate buddies rides etc. I hope you do more videos like this maybe another build someday! Great job on the best video I have seen on these cars. I hope You can do another one of these sometime. New Sub!

[@janogaminghun5254]

I just started thinking about doing this, so I might as well try. I just have to design it and get the parts to make it RC

[@justinchamberlin4195]

My personal guidance on budget printers is that they're a good buy if you get 80% of the experience of the high-end printer at 33% of the price. Depending on whether you would buy the Mk4S kit or the assembled version, the SV06 ACE is somewhere between 27% and 37% of the price of the Mk4S and it looks like you get way more than 80% of the experience. It might be a bit early to say, but I think it has to be considered one of the best budget printers on the market. From the videos I've seen, my only knock would be Sovol's insistence on using the Sovolcano nozzle instead of a real Volcano...granted, it's better than so many printers being released with entirely proprietary nozzles or nozzle/heat break combos that avoid standards for no good reason (other than to drive first-party consumables sales).

[@ukvape]

Well the servo for height ccan be adjusted to turn more. The motor that gave you is for crawling and not for speed the tyres need to be glued to the wheels

[@TerraRoot]

Lots of good comments about going 3s and glueing tyres here, but you should also rethink the locked diff, it's making the front push and putting excessive load on those tyres. is a that a sovol sv08 or a voron 2.4 in the background?

[@FFUSION1944]

Any chance on you sharing your orca profiles for the sv06 ace for layer heights smaller than .2 ?

[@sledlord]

pre 3d printing when I used to race RC cars we CA glued the tires to rims.

[@Anziilife]

Fun fact: the original soundtrack for the anti-piracy DVD commercial was, I kid you not, pirated. Mass distributed without consent of the original creator who made it for a film festival. 😅 Besides! Awesome project!

[@MandicReally]

Yeppp. I had learned that forever ago but while making the intro I relearned that fact. I was trying to find music like it and came across that fact while researching. Hilarious. Thanks!

[@awaite7992]

Kool Project, I shall be in the Process of Scanning a Real Steel 35 Ford truck, with the plan of making a full sized body from scratch, Maybe print out some models. I have known and worked for Wray Schelin for years, I built his Power Hammer and many of the English wheels. I do have a question for you. I am considering posibly 3d printing some tooling. Another friend Steve Shepard is doing an old Porsche and has printed many parts in lue of a buck. Back to the tooling, what would you recomend for filaments for somethng like a thumb nail die. I am considering building a small power hammer or even a repiprocating machine to run these dies in. Any suggestions ??? Do you have any videos of your shop tour of Wrays which you did a long time ago with a Drone ??? Thanks

[@altf4cerrarventana]

I must confess.. I´ve clicked the video just because the title remains me THAT anti-piracy ad on THE IT CROWD...

[@KnexJunkie]

Ive been eye bailing that 3D car for a while but i dont have the money yet to get into it. but nice to see somebody print that car. *there is ofcourse more to print* but yeah i love the idea of printing RC car stuf. a lot more options for things or creative adjustments.

[@CryptikDesign]

I raced RC competitively and rubber tires we'd always glue. Personally never seen someone not glue their rubbers.

[@VdubSPAZ]

Out of all the years I've ever done RC cars you always glue the tires to the wheels

[@gokartsminibikesandmore9925]

All in all from the body file to the rc parts whats the total cost give or take depending on parts and what body of course

[@djbryant77]

Where the tires printed or purchased?

[@daveterry4326]

I've run rc cars for 30 odd years, I learnt a very long time ago, you can't drive a car without gluing the tyres to the rims, if they're not glued, how do you expect them to stay on the rim driven with any enthusiasm?

[@teamfusionracing]

Back of the envelope math... says the top speed is less than 10 mph with that setup. The rear diff is probably around 3:1 so the final drive ratio/reduction is around 12:1 and the motor is 1400kv so you have a rpm topping out around 9000 rpm.... (9000/12=750rpm at the wheels) Each tire rotation is about 1 ft of travel... so 700rpm at the tire = 8mph. Swap out the motor for something in the 2500kv range to wake it up a little. 15+ mph would feel way better. :)

[@AndrewduToit]

Loved this video I would like to design and print my own Cars but this looks like a good option. Just download and print.

[@MandicReally]

They have a bunch of designs. More 4x4 ones, but still cool stuff. I may have to build another eventually.

[@AndrewduToit]

@@MandicReally That will be cool.

[@zerofox3d]

I part built their LandRover (just haven't had the time to finish it) One mistake I made was using s metallic silver filament for the body, the layer adhesion wasn't good, cracking happened!

[@Jfa-letsgo]

I have 4 sv 06 i love them

[@ChromeFungus]

Dude, you gotta glue those tires, put a fully charged 2S lipo in her and do an update(maybe short?)

[@MandicReally]

AS soon as we get a break in the rain around here. I got a 3S battery and will be gluing tires soon.

[@andy11894]

with the tire issues but all my normal RC cars have ca glue holding the tires on

[@joshuamorin2762]

I might have to get a model but resin print the body for a cleaner look.

[@NoMercyFtw]

Glue the tires on

[@phreshxmetal]

Damn i was expecting a drivable car from that thumbnail...

[@T00LF00L]

Real RC cars will have glued tires or true beadlocks so don’t feel bad your tires come off

[@Eric_Wolfe-Schulte]

One step closer to building a combat robot 😁

[@MandicReally]

sooooon... ish. ha

[@magnusivarsson9288]

Really liked the video

[@MandicReally]

Thank you very much!

[@hitechredneck2133]

I've printed there jeep and first style buggy I love them

[@VdubSPAZ]

From what it seemed like it seemed like your RC ESC wasn't tuned properly in one of your parts of your video I heard the ESC beeping which usually is a sign that it's out of spec with the controller or it's just not tuned correctly to the motor or to the battery there's lots of things to consider like it's brushless if it's not brushless then that's pretty much the speed if it's brushless then there was something definitely wrong with the speed controller and more tuning needed to be done your gear ratio to your KV motor may have been off basically the KV has a mathematical equation to voltage to RPM rating and if you don't have that right you will burn up the motor or overheat the motor because you're screening it too much for the actual voting that you're putting into it you could have had a limiter set on your controller that basically doesn't allow full throttle control the basically protect your RC from young people or new people who don't understand what's going on with their RC yet

[@kreation1935]

Maybe a RCtestflight and Allan colab to improve the car?

[@madmoddedmustangs8300]

What did you have in your materials minus printer?

[@MandicReally]

The materials were provided by Protopasta so I don't have an accurate total, and I ran multiple spools in parellel which drives up the price. It was somewhere over $200 in filament. That said, it took about 2.5-3kg of filament total, so look at filament prices for the colors you want and you can figure it out from there.

[@madmoddedmustangs8300]

@ thank you for getting back so fast i’ll have to check it out

[@mrbilky]

Protopasta rocks bit expensive but well worth it

[@nerobro]

[@MandicReally]

That you for the informative break down. I’ve got a direction to go with some of these things now.

[@hotboyracing]

Team associated has a rat rod truck that looks like that

[@jbrucifer]

Having proto pasta right around the corner has been a dangerous thing for me and my wallet

[@saturnmedia1]

Only 220x220x250? Dang. And how hot does the stock hotend get? I see the purchasable full 300°C hotend on the page, but no stock hotend temp??? At 220mm^3 I think the FlashForge 5M may be a better choice? Idk. If sovol makes a 300x300x350 version for a good price I will VERY heavily consider it.

[@MandicReally]

The stock hotend goes to 300c. That product listing for a “300c hotend” is just an entire stock extruder assembly. Typical companies marketing poorly. I ran 275C for the PC Blend prints but tested it to 300 when finding the best temp for that material.

[@saturnmedia1]

@ ah okay, thank you.

[@Plurquest]

if you want a challange try the skidsteer on cults... with the worm drive mod

[@Panster7]

When I saw the price for the file I was like "That's way too much" then I saw the parts you printed and it really change my mind. This is some proper RC cars design

[@MandicReally]

Yea I was hesitant beforehand but after all that, I don't feel like I got ripped off at all.

[@sliverbaer]

I still have my RC scorcher

[@matthewlee8917]

As others have said. CA gluing of the tires is really a must for an R/C car. So it's not unique to that design.

[@ForOdin]

You’re supposed to glue the tires to the rims

[@devinflint5554]

Did you shoot a policeman, steal his helmet, do a number 2 in the helmet and send it to his grieving widow?

[@lordraptor11]

ok well your power problem is easy that kit is guarunteed heavier than mass produced rc kits, and mass produced rc 1/10 kits use 540 size motors in various KV ratings. also mass produced 1/10 kits use a 2s, 3s or even larger. for that car and the weight i would say a brushless system capable of runnign a 3s lipo for more voltage and power. again the weight is that prints biggest achilles heel

[@Shaggywasntme27]

Did the engine say it was a "420 Supercharged" lmao

[@MandicReally]

426. Made to look like a hemi sadly.

[@kanrogcreations]

I can convert the wheel STLs to actual files, not just triangle messes, let me know 😉👍

[@deltacx1059]

I'm not really impressed by something that seemingly requires a major disassembly to change important parts. Yes it's a complex assembly but that's more reason to make things easier to get to.

[@thediscoman2001]

its not like you to not have rolls and rools of filament this is a first

[@charlesforbin6937]

DUDE.....WHY ALL THE INK?

[@MandicReally]

DUDE.... WHY DO YOU CARE?

[@Jfa-letsgo]

You can put a faster motor but after that parts starts breaking i print rc snowmobile from # rc creation they are a blast

[@casadioDesign]

Awesome video and a great fan of 3Dsets here too! I also designed some RC cars, if you want to try my latest Subaru 22B replica it will be awesome to see on your channel!

[@yupickonme4]

make it gas powered... power np LOL

[@Duraltia]

Yea... That's why I only design and build my own 3D Printable Models ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/omTCg5aFipitpZI ) because if there's a problem with something then at least I can fix it 🤔 Like that Outrunner Drone Motor which should have been a more suitable Inrunner RC Car Model but retroactively fitting one into that constrained space is most likely not going to happen 🤨 Also the idea with the Lowrider Servos - while admirable - is silly using such small Servos which should probably have been of the same size than the main Steering one...