All About 1860's Fashion // What did Civil War-era fashion look like?

We're back for another installment of my Fashion Evolution Deep Dive series, where I analyze hundreds of fashion plates to determine trends within a single decade of fashion history, and this time, we're taking a look at the fashions of the 1860s, from 1860-1869.
You can see all the plates in this video (and many more) by looking at each year's folder in my Crinoline Era Pinterest board: / crinoline-era
If you want to watch the other two videos in this series, check out this playlist: • Decade Deep Dive
Interested in crinoline-era sewing? I made this 1860's dress in a little over a day!: • Can I make an 1860's d...
You can also see my recent 1859 plaid silk dress project here: • 1859 Silk Plaid Dress
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[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

If you'd like to support my channel, you can join my Patreon! Thank you to all my amazing patrons! www.patreon.com/ladyrebeccafashions

[@jeansando6849]

Yes! Come join us! Join at the Tier where we have chats! We have lots of fun in our little community!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

@@jeansando6849 I love our chats!

[@misia1038]

I never had any idea how much the 1860s were diverse! I just thought "elliptical to bustle", but it was so cool to see how we got there! Thank you

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Oh yeah, I mean the changes were a lot more subtle than some other decades, but it sure did change a lot!

[@renjon7798]

This is my favorite period in fashion history. I love how in depth and well researched your videos in this series are. Please keep them coming

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@annematusiewicz3712]

I remember seeing a little drawing by a boy in the mid-1860s of his mother and sister, with their crinolines sticking out behind them like triangles. It was great. Thanks for the review of the decade!

[@EH23831]

Thanks for your hard work! Love these videos ❤ Would love to see 1870s and 1880s. I’d also like a longer look at the fashion plates 😊

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks! It might be a little while till I do the next one. Unfortunately this video isn't doing that well either. :(

[@serahloeffelroberts9901]

In the USA the 1860s was the time of the Civil War. There were vast changes in the role of women who stepped up to cover for the men who were at war. Women began to work as teachers, nurses and clerks which had previously been male professions. They organized hospitals and field hospitals to treat the wounded and aid societies for widows and orphans. They also helped fund the organizations with balls, raffles and raffles. All this required more utilitarian type clothes. There was no time for fancy clothing trims. The hoop actually facilitated free movement and blouse type tops made it easier to work at tasks. After the war fashions became fancier especially as early sewing machines appeared for home use.

[@lilaeia]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE continue this series!!! I LOVE the 1870s, 1880s and (parts of the) 1890s!!!! I’d love to see your evolution through these decades. This was SO good!!! 🤗💝😘

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! To be honest though, these types of videos were a TON of work, and did not wind up getting many views, so I doubt that I'll be doing another one anytime soon.

[@ashextraordinaire]

I just love your deep-dives! My research (read: obsession) is focused on working-class women's wear, so it's really fascinating to see where some of those trends originated and how they filtered down from the fashion houses to everyday life. I do love a good pagoda sleeve!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

It would be cool to see a comparison of how long it took for trends to reach the working class, and what trends they picked up on!

[@Notlost-lj9qt]

I love the designs with the decorated sheer over layers! I agree that the red and blue dress with Swiss waist would be cool to recreate, too.

[@tasjones9105]

We love a detailed timeline, and I cannot express how much I am anticipating the next decade installment. This video is a convenient compact reference dream for artists who experience the immense desire to draw pretty dress and avoid drawing legs.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@martamoreira6326]

Yes! I love this series, i have trouble identifying some trends and since I'm researching for a recreation of a met dress, I looked forward this video to give me tips on how to pin point it better 😊 Lady Rebecca, that last sheer overbodice look is super cute and if there was any recreation clubs near me I would so use this all the time.... Use and abuse alcaline dyes in everything 😂

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful!

[@michellecornum5856]

I love these deep dive videos. They are SO informative. I hope you can continue making them.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! I think it might be a while till I make my next one. This one unfortunately isn't performing very well either. :(

[@TanteElster]

I love this kind of videos a lot, looking at and analyzing fashion plates for inspiration is one of my favourite things to do. thank you for all the extensive work you put into making these videos!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@theresaanndiaz3179]

It's so nice that you post a variety of videos, I enjoy them all. Most of them, I only watch once, however, I know that I am going to be watching this one several times because it's packed with information.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@joycebowen8958]

I love your channel and i really love this period in history. My ggg and gggg grandmothers were true southern belles and i often like to picture how it must have been for them and how beautiful they must've looked!❤

[@josephnebeker7976]

I just found you. I've been doing research into the Victorian era to design a dress from that time for my daughter. I'm a little weird in that I like to keep fantasy as realistic as possible, and since my daughter loves both the Victorian era clothing and steampunk, I'm designing a truly Victorian style dress for her that can double, with a few alterations, as her steampunk dress. I loved this deep dive.

[@TheGabygael]

I think I have a soft spot for transitional eras : my favorite parts of most decades of the 20th century are the end of them (1908, 1916-17, 1946-50, 1969, 1978, 1986, 1997) and my two favorites at the moment for the 19th century is the very end of the 60s early 70 when elliptical skirts deflated but bustles weren't there yet (so you get this swoopy simple dresses with long trains) and the late 1830s where the hair's extremeness Made way to intricate braids (those large sculptural heavily pomaded curls on the side of the face with a braided bun at the crown worn like a tiara or a comb) I guess they look familiar enough (getting attributes of surrounding better known eras) but we so short and not often represented that they look like a novel take on trends I've seen over and over again... except for 1916, it was a glorious fever dream that is missing in Downton Abbey, those intricate avant garde dresses worn as a war for the aristocracy by the people was at its darkest is a symbolic drama that writes itself instead they went from early 10s to 20s fashion in the blink of an eye

[@juia7336]

Thank you for this incredibly researched and detailed look! This is one of my favourite eras, not least because of all the art I try to create for some characters set in this period, and it's so interesting to see the way the style shifts and changes - and the way it isn't just "1850s, but back-heavy" 😅 Thank you for the video! Looking forward to your next sewing video too!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! Honestly, until doing the research for these two videos, I hadn't even realized just how different 1850's fashion was from 1860s!

[@saymyname2417]

The blue and white ball gown @ 12.38 minutes is TOO BEAUTIFUL 😍!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Right?! Those bows!

[@saymyname2417]

@@LadyRebeccaFashions - Yes, absolutely gorgeous! I'd love to see you sew that dress 😁!

[@tjmanfuso7926]

Wow I loved this! 1867 is probably my favorite year for fashion and I loved learning about it! Also I noticed those Watteau pleats one time and have been waiting for someone to bring it up! I really enjoyed this and I hope you do more!

[@alessio3787]

I love how she goes into detail abt every month that passes,there isn't another channel that goes this much into depth

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@nurmihusa7780]

Absolutely lovely job as usual. I hope you do continue to make these because you’ve done such a thorough job of it. Such a series serve as an excellent reference to come back to when needed. Meaning it may not do well in the short term but might have a very long tail.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! I'm hoping the views might pick up. It's not doing very well so far, unfortunately.

[@EilonwyG]

I love the Civil War era of fashion! Probably because I always loved the costuming of Gone with the Wind. I love seeing how the fashion evolves. It's so fascinating! One day I will make myself one of these styles.

[@teddy-3765]

I do like these deep dives a lot. Thanks for sharing.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Such a great video! I had no idea how much things changed over the decade. Thanks for such a great overview! Don’t worry if it’s not something you can do every month. Most of us will understand if other things have to take a higher priority

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! Yeah, with the way both of these have performed so far, I think it might be a while till I do the 1870's video.

[@Downhomeherbwife]

Love Swiss waists! I made one recently for a day dress and it is such a confection.

[@bekytg9393]

A wonderful well researched video. Appreciate the time and effort you make to research these videos. Hey great to see you are nearly 30 thousand subscribers. Yeah.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! I wound up hitting 30k this morning!

[@elizabethscott3218]

I hope you'll be able to do more, I hadn't thought that fashion trends would have changed year to year as much! But I also appreciated that your sources did include some German / Austrian items too. I was curious how much regional variation there would be (I just found this rabbit hole).

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks! I think by this point, Germany and Austria were basically following the same fashion as France and England, especially since one of the biggest trendsetters was Austrian!

[@nimuenorth6295]

I enjoy these deep dives that illustrate just how much fashions changed (and sometimes didn’t) even back then. I studied history so I know all too well how much most people see the past as static, so this is a wonderful adjustment to that perception. And “Beilage zum Bazar” translates to supplement or addendum to the Bazar, so the publication was likely Der Bazar (1854-1900) and the scan you found was some sort of leaflet slipped into the magazine.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Oh interesting! I'm familiar with Der Bazar, but hadn't heard of this, so thank you for the translation.

[@gracie9658]

The 60s are one of if not my favourite period in fashion history, I can't wait to watch this !

[@susanharris-rohde1127]

I was not a big fan of 1860's until this video. Thank you. You have given me some inspiration.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

There's definitely a lot of gorgeous fashions in this era!

[@dianaballishiyama4007]

Thank you for the information about women's clothes in the 1860's.

[@monicacall7532]

Discovering your channel was a moment of serendipity today! Ever since I discovered fashion history in an encyclopedia when I was 11 I have loved it. For anyone who nerds out on this topic your videos are a delight to discover. On a cold very rainy day finding your channel has made my day so much better. Many thanks.

[@unorthodeux]

I absolutely love the 1860s fashion. It's so hard to pick a favorite decade from the 19th century. It's a toss up between the 50s, 60s, 70s, and 90s for me.

[@alexiscarlton1355]

Thank you for the research and I will fail to understand peoples lack of interest. You make it interesting and informative. Loved the Swiss waist that was essentially a skirt :D.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@BurntKloverfield]

These kind of deep dive videos are so much fun. Also, I legit have that same white shirt you're wearing! I love that shirt so much and wear it whenever I can for the poofy sleeves. You're so adorable!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! And I like that blouse so much that I bought two of them! 😉

[@Celcey24]

Wow, I was very surprised by some of this. I always associated the 1860s with the big round skirt shape, I had no idea there were years with such a slim form!

[@marcellarensi131]

I love your decades videos! Keep up the excellent work.

[@wytchatthebackofthewoods7902]

I love these videos and appreciate all the hard work you put into them. Thank You

[@samfontane]

That's absolutely amazing. Thanks. ❤

[@VioletFem]

I love these fashion history deep dives.

[@maryball4651]

I love the deep dives and think you should continue!

[@kittytimes6]

So interesting! I will have to check out more of your videos! ❤

[@OliNoel]

this is my favorite kind of video!

[@eileenbauer4601]

Really enjoyed this, thanks for posting and for all your hard work!

[@RianShafer]

Loved these dresses, especially closer to the later styles.

[@DOSBoxMom]

You would love the very beginning of the "White House years" portion of the exhibits at the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Museum in Springfield, IL. That first room features gowns worn by several women prominent in DC society during the Civil War (wives and daughters of politicians and Cabinet officials), with "Mrs. Keckley" making some small adjustments to "Mary Todd Lincoln's" gown in the center of the room.

[@MeadowoodRanch]

June 1865 purple dress with purple trim. It’s beautiful!

[@bonniecolleenpappin8807]

Thank you, so much information in one place.

[@kirstinmarchand3687]

Love these videos! Great to see the changes over time.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@werelemur1138]

It's so interesting watching trends evolve over time.

[@maribrown1361]

I especially enjoyed this video, as I am in love with Scarlett O'Hara & Gone With The Wind (due to my mother's influence). I have always wanted to wear the fashion of the era, and it's interesting to see what a 16 year old wealthy girl *should* be wear, and what was appropriate around the world as the period progressed.

[@autumn7143]

I love these deep dives. It’s so very cool to see things evolve.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks!

[@danitzasews]

I really like how you explained this

[@gabizurrek9243]

Very interesting and educating video! Loved it

[@stitchbritt]

I love the red and blue dress you pointed out and OMG the embellished sheer starry dress of the Empress 😍

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Right? I kind of want to make Sisi's dress at some point too, but there's several people who have made really beautiful renditions already.

[@moannaleesa523]

Beautifully done and very helpful, thanks

[@furlizard]

I really like the deep dives, I will keep watching them all!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks!

[@starwarssyl1177]

I love this series so much! I did not know about the Garibaldi shirt, and I am so excited to know about it now! I enjoyed this very much! My favorite eras are the two bustle. It's no surprise to me that my favorite fashion plates in this video were from 1869! Thank you so much!

[@Sew_Learning]

Loved this deep dive into the 1860’s…well researched and very interesting, as always.🥰 Sending best wishes from Down Under💐🌸🌺💖🇦🇺😎

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@krysil1221]

It's so interesting to see what changes and what doesn't in just a decade.

[@jeansando6849]

So informative and perfectly timed for my next project!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Yay! Good luck on your project! :)

[@cecilyfortune8164]

I am enjoying this series. It is fun and informative.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@ollie2596]

The 1850 and 60s are my favorite fashion era! I love watching these videos. My favorite fashion plate is from Godey's for may 1862, there's this absolutely stunning dress with a red girvaldi blouse and a black skirt with a matching red band at the bottom. It also has a very particular style where the pockets are fashionably lined with the bodice/band fabric and placed in an interesting spot for a dress in those times! It's very unique and stands out amongst the others!!

[@kathrynmccarthy]

I love seeing all of the fashion plates and how the styles evolved. Would love to see you make that red/orange dress with the sheer black overlay sometime!

[@petrablijleven1119]

Oh, Rebecca! This is só just in time!! I am working on a 1860’s ball dress for a Victorian Fancy Dress Ball and have been going back and forth about which details to add. What sleeves? Lace? Skirt decoration! Pointy bodice or not? This video has made choosing a lot easier 😘 1961 it is!

[@SarahK86]

You mean 1861

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Oh wonderful! Good luck with your project!

[@sandiemable]

I love history and find these videos fascinating; the details of each dress are explained wonderfully by you! I truly appreciate all the hard work that goes into these videos. Have a great weekend, xoxo's Sandie

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@beamteammom5431]

I love this!

[@Haghenveien]

This was very interesting. I love to learn how historical fashion changes over the years.

[@Silverfoxx001]

Illusion, also known as tulle, is a fine netting fabric made of nylon. It has a delicate, sheer look but with its medium body it can be gathered and attached to a crown or comb to make a suitable blush layer to cover the face or bridal veil. Also used for special occasion wear, party decorations, or craft projects. i went and checked illusion tulle still exists today

[@dee-annegordon5959]

Love watching these videos and hope you do continue making them. Even if you only make a couple of them a year. It's really helpful to see the progression year from year of fashion changes and trends.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks! This one hasn't been doing very well so far, so yeah, it might be a little while till the next one.

[@liddybird3608]

Woohoo! I love these videos. Do them whenever you feel like it. I'll be watching.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks!

[@Nessi-dances]

Super helpful! Thank you! That shear black stripe over bodice is amazing.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Right? So gorgeous! And I'm glad it was helpful!

[@donnacoleman4624]

I love these videos, and appreciate all the hard work and time spent on them. I'm a Newby in historical costuming and I have learned so much from you. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@dellymel9840]

Great video, very interesting, thank you.xx

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Fashion, opulence, and the monied elite. The exquisite tulle gown from the House of Worth, Margaret Mitchell's Gone With the Wind, and Carol Burnett's Went With the Wind. Rebecca, your dives into fashion history are wonderful and appreciated. Thank you!

[@brandyloutherback9288]

Maybe do 1890s/1900s, Next? I love Late Victorian/ Edwardian era fashion trends!

[@sally-annebuck4550]

Thanks, this was so interesting and informative.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! I'm so glad it was helpful!

[@mysticwillow333]

Wow thankyou so much for this video, I am finding the shapes of fashion so confusing, I can't quite work out what bustle I do like and would like to try and make . Keep going please I very much enjoy your videos x

[@user-pl1kw4ux2d]

love your fashions of the 1860s. I would love you to do a deep dive into a 1960s evolution of. women dress and how year by year as the. sixties progress. we can. see a gradual shift of hemlines during the late 60s

[@beaniebabysnail]

I almost never like to comment on youtube but I have to say that I adore this series. Not only do you make it super engaging but it's an excellent resource too!!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you!

[@roxiepoe9586]

This confirms that I do not have a fashionable sensibility. I just don't want to keep up! :) I do love all the pretty pictures and the knowledge you share.

[@dismurrart6648]

This was super helpful

[@deborahc398]

Great research, as usual. The amount of time you must put in is amazing. And, please do the recreation - I'd love to see it!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! Yeah, these videos take the better part of a full week to create.

[@cemitchell6496]

Thank you!

[@daisyfox2452]

I was so confused when I started looking into the 1860s. They have my fav looks 1867-1869 and my least fav 1860-1863. Now I get why!

[@terpinator24]

Thanks so much! I really didn't know that much about the 1860s since it seems everyone freaks out about the late Victorian or Edwardian periods!

[@RychaardRyder]

I LIVE THE DOUBLE POINT BODICE WAISTLINE, I SAW A WORTH DRESS OF BLUISH GREEN WITH THAT AND IVE PROMISED MYSELF THAT IF I CAN EVER AFORD SUCH WOOLS I WOULD ATTEMPT IT! DOUBLE POINT!

[@roxannlegg750]

Loved the overview of the fashion changes...but if you do more of them, could u leave the photos up longer, as I was always stopping to look at them. Theyre so inspiring. And expensive too make....

[@No12559]

I use to love the 1850’s but like… the 1860’s? I love it.

[@tosewthyself]

Never heard of a Swiss waist before this video, and now I want to make SO MANY😆

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Right? It's such a flattering and versatile garment!

[@angieeanes54]

I would love to see you do a project with the Swiss bodice to overskirt! That plate is gorgeous!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

I just need that blue striped silk!

[@angelaross1]

Thank you for doing these. I’m a “mature” woman (63), Were there different rules regarding color/embellishment that applied to Matrons? I feel foolish in wanting to emulate some of these fashion plates as they seem to apply to younger women or younger married women.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

I haven't done research on differences in fashions for different age groups. I think that older women generally avoided white and pale pink, but I'm not sure about other colors.

[@melissamybubbles6139]

Thank you for all the details. I'm sure that was difficult to put together. I appreciate you!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thank you! It takes the better part of a full week to put a video like this together!

[@madzikdek]

Thank you so much. I love this,this series is everything I ever wanted... I'm currently working on my master's in Artificial Intelligence and I'm making a system that guesses what year a fashion plate is from... Do you know when you will have another instalment of this series? I know they're A LOT of work but I just can't wait

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Woah, that system sounds so cool! Honestly, it will probably be quite some time before I make another, as they haven't performed well, and they're a ton of work to do.

[@ericwinterlinginc.7015]

This was really wonderful and incredibly researched. What is left out that may be identified once you hit 1870 is the rise of the waistline, from slightly long waisted in the 1850’s to almost Empire by 1870.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

I don't think it physically raises up to nearly an empire waist, though -- just that it almost looks that way because of the previous use of points and other visual cues. Or do you mean how the trend for things like the skirts that were cut in one with the swiss waists, making it kind of look like an empire line, but fitted through the natural waist?

[@christineb5232]

the 1860s is my favorite historical fashion era. especially the evening wear. the 1862 dress i love is on a tv mini series called north and south its a light blues with lace ruffles just off the shoulders.

[@Silverfoxx001]

ironically it was a tulle fabric possibly called Illusion, Its what Amy of little women called it when she used "clouds" of fresh illusion tulle to cover a hand me down ball dress she wore to a Christmas ball. Amy was wearing hand-me-downs until her marriage to Lawrie after which Luarie bought her new clothes for her homeward journey. Amy used if for a practical purpose of freshen up an old dress wonder if fabric shortages in the post civil war years caused an need to reuse things thus a fashion of softening older clothes. The tulle( silk in her case as nylon wouldn't be invented for 70 years approx.) was 'cheap'. she also used live flowers on her dresses which were free.

[@jake4725]

great vid! 1880s would be cool

[@mce1939]

Good video! Enjoyed it!! I have always really liked those Garibaldi blouses. Have you ever made one on the channel? Would love to see you do one. Garibaldi blouses are like "business up top, party on the bottom." :) :) I love how they have a simple appearance, but can then be paired with an embellished/decorative skirt.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Thanks! And nope, I've yet to make a Garibaldi blouse. The closest I've done was a similar, but collared blouse that I made back in 2010.