Godox MF-12 Macro Flash - A Review

[@WaheedAkhtarWahid]

O’ my my! Your sense of humour is killing me in a good way :) amazing content. Thumbs up!

[@matthewkeener9160]

Yea, that was hilarious. "And a TTL mode that I forbid you to use."

[@photobobo]

This is a copy of the Nikon R1C1 flash system which I have used for many years. The improvements are: builtin rechargeable batteries, wireless connection. Otherwise they are identical to the Nikon system, but at a somewhat lower price. The Nikon system includes diffuser extensions which in many cases allows the light to be behind the subject. This is spectacular for flowers as the light shines through the petals creating an interesting glow.

[@josephwisniewski3673]

Bobo, Godox/Flashpoint have a clip on adapter that lets you use all the V1 accessories: round diffuser, dome, filters, a tiny snoot, and a half-come "diffuser extender" that will let you do exactly what you did with the Nikon R2D2 kit.

[@luludelasnubes]

Absolutely fantastic video of knowledge, advices, opinions and FUN !! I thank you SO much, Allan ! :-)) Take very good care of you

[@michaelmckeag960]

Your demonstration of how proper lighting can make a subject as small as a weevil appear huge reminded me of the occasion when a friend interrupted a natural history presentation, asking the presenter to go back a couple slides, “Yes that one, the lesser of two weevils!”

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Hahaha - a new reason to love weevils!

[@19rishu]

I must say this is the best review on #godoxmf12 on youtube. Love your content on this channel. No bullshit right to the point. Although the video was long and comprehensive it was worth every second :) Thank you Allan

[@SteveKershaw]

I was amazed at the weight and value for money, I got the 2 head kit thinking I would use it with my other Godox lights (I have many of them) but they are so small and light that idea has gone, I will add 2 more, 2 on camera and 2 for backlighting etc, I can Cary my camera and have these in my pocket, makes longer walks very easy, Great video as always and good to see that my opinion on these little units has been reaffirmed by an expert.

[@macdandy1972]

Agree 100% with the [educated] opinions in this video. These flashes are great! I have been using them for MACRO for about a month and the results are amazing. It has totally replaced the 2 Boling P1 LED lights and one Godox tt660 that I was previously using (for macro work). Anyway, love your videos Allan. Please keep them coming.

[@DexterMurphyMusic]

Brilliantly detailed video. Really enjoyable to watch with a big bowl of silica.

[@boiga1966]

Best unboxing video ever

[@robertstorost629]

Hey, Allan, Another great video! I have been using my Canon macro twin Flash in a similar way since I discovered your macro cage video. But there are only two flash heads, and they have cords which is a nuisance. I already owned it, but it was very expensive. To me, the price point is what seals the deal on these Godox flashes. But what I really want to comment on is your joy and enthusiasm. It shows that you still have your inner child. And that's what keeps us forever young. Like a kid at Christmas! I have always had to wait for anyting I really really wanted and it taught me great patience. I just saved for nine years to finally buy a car I really wanted. Seeing your gratitude and happiness to get these flashes really warms my heart.

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

What a nice thing to say Robert - thank you!

[@joegowac4617]

I just bought these with the magnetic pope shield diffuser. Hope it works great. I just need summer to come so the bugs come back.

[@mozzman]

Perfect, I've been hoping for a review of these. I forgot I hadn't ordered them when they were announced. Let's see if you save me money or add to my expenditures for 2021.

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

If I had seen this earlier I would have said you better not watch it, but too late!

[@inott60]

enthusiasm is your bottom line ! wonderful . thanks allan

[@richardbusch669]

Hello Allan, You talked about the lemonade bottles made a diffuser. Would you show a photo of the type of lemonade please and or how it was made.

[@paulrobbins3737]

Cheers! Great tutorial.Have ordered the "unincluded" trigger! :)

[@5RustyBin]

One tiny observation - if you are outside (say just after sundown) the godox pro ii trigger has the bulb button that turns on the LED lights in both flashes at once - when its gloomy this is a great benefit for focusing and saves you having to turn the lights on on each flash separately. Pressing the button on the trigger again turns them off. Great video - sadly I don't think we have Crystal Light Pitcher Packets in the UK :(

[@unclebuck5957]

Great setup wish you posted some pictures

[@roybixby6135]

I love using the Nikon R1C1 system and its good to see Godox make something very similar at about 1/5 the price. I dont usually mount them on the lens but they are so small you can place them anywhere. I wished the Nikon R1C1 came with that cold mount - I had to 3D print mine. Another great system for macro product photography...

[@jeroenvdw]

I just got these and I'm planning to use them for both indoor and outdoor photography. I knew the diffusers weren't going to be great, but I actually use very thin and white seedling bags that I cram between the stock diffuser and the flash. Indoor results were not bad with just 1 thin layer, but I'm planning to use them outside today and cram the whole thing with that stuff. Just to see how it goes.

[@sparkeyjames]

I have found the modeling lights on the nikon R1C1 to be worthless. The diffuser covers for the flash units however are quite nice.

[@WaheedAkhtarWahid]

If anyone want to mount it on camera (not lens), I would suggest to switch to Godox X2T trigger which comes with additional hot-shoe allowing to mount and additional accessory.

[@havefunwithmacrophotograph3839]

you are from the best in this field sir

[@bjnslc]

I picked one up to play with, but not the ring. I've seen two reviews where the mounting ring spins after the threaded ring is installed. Clearly Godox has some manufacturing inconsistency there. But I could fix that with tape if necessary. I won't get one, or at least won't use one at the front of my lens, because it puts the flash heads too close at macro working distance to fit a good DIY diffuser. I'll use an articulating arm.

[@JRodPhotoArt]

Great video Allan, I sure do love your Wit and Humor, Makes watching even more enjoyable. Looks like I need to order this set. I am currently using a nikon flash with a home made diffuser but this set might work better as the light will come from multiple sides.

[@TheGregWallace]

Question.....is a reason you go with Godox vs. Flashpoint?

[@19Photographer76]

I sold my Nikon bellows to KEH last year, it became too difficult to work in the field with it.

[@waegnw1793]

I have watched a number of Alan's videos and he certainly does a good job of sharing his skills about macro-photography with his viewers. However, this video was a bit strange. He purchased what amounts to a ring light system, but one which uses flashes. He buys a system with two flash units and purchases two more, all of which are designed to be used with the provided ring system which he is supposedly evaluating/testing. But Alan never does use the system he purchased as it was intended to be used by the manufacturer. Instead, he removes all the flashes from the "ring" system and then mounts them individually on various types of stands/clamps/holders and uses them as off camera flashes. I have some Godox speed light TT685 flashes that I do the same thing with. That is, I mount the flashes on various type stands, put them around my subject as off camera flashes, and trigger them with the Godox Xpro Wireless Flash Trigger mounted on the camera. This works great as does as does the MF12 flash units that Alan uses in a similar fashion. However, in watching this video, I learned nothing about how the "Godox MF12" Macro Flash system with 4-Lights (attached to the ring) works when placed on the camera and used for real life macro photography. I did learn that the flash units can be removed and used off camera as I do with my Godox TT685 flash units. By the time the video ended, I wondered why Alan had bothered to purchase the MF12 kit that came in a case with the ring for the camera lens, 2-flashes, and accessories. He could have purchased just 4 of the flash units alone. With these 4 units, he could have accomplished everything he intended with respect to using and taking pictures. That is, with his Macro photography setup (as shown in the video), and the four MF12 flashes that he uses in off camera mode.

[@5RustyBin]

he uses the ring when he's in the field outdoors. Mentioned it in the early part of the video.

[@andyvan5692]

Allan, the one thing I think of the instant I see these; the Nikon R1C1 ringlight kit, the flashes look so simmilar to the Nikon sb-R200 flashes in that kit, diffusers, ring adapters, and all.

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Agreed, but the one thing that you won't think of is the R1C1 price tag!

[@TheGregWallace]

Question.....How many flashes can the trigger, trigger at the same time?

[@GrzegorzBaranArt]

Thank you Allan for another awesome video. Regarding the NISI macro focusing rail you already reviewed while ago in its first version. I purchased one after your review and the big issue I have found was that the handle actually blocks the carriage movement at some point so it cant fully pull it back move from one side to another. Its a shame and feels like a desing error. That surprised me. Also I have found its not as accurate as I expected and it is very easy to move the entire setup while rotating the handle as it is very tight. Not sure should I treat it with WD40 or something and would it change anything but I am considering to purchase an electric one instead to get rid off the camera micromovement. I dont do any big close ups as I dont managed to build the setup yet, just about 2.5x, but even for this one, the lack of accuracy for this rail is a bit painful when trying manual stacking :). Wondering is a new upgraded version has the same flaws or were these fixed, so really looking forward for the incoming review of the MK2 version :) Thanks for all the editing effort you put into this video, it was really very informative but also very fun to watch. Cheers

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Hi Gregorz - I understand your issue and, of course you are correct, it is not possible to do accurate work on a rail that is too loose, or broken in some way. But as you can see from the comments, a couple of others have had the same issue with version #1. In each case the problem has been the tensioning grub screw has loosened, introducing play into the carriage. When properly tensioned the carriage has virtually zero play. Do the following - locate the small hole in the face of the carriage closest to the big handle, insert a 2.0mm Allen wrench. Wiggle the wrench a little until it engages with the screw at the base of the hole. Turn clockwise until snug but not overly tight. That will usually fix it, but if not, take the same Allen wrench and tighten the four screws in the base of the carriage. You will have to move the carriage to access each of the four screw in turn. Finally use a 1.6mm torx driver (a hex may work, all I had was a torx) and very carefully tighten the two tiny screws on either side of the tensioning knob on the right side of the carriage. These screws have been treated with lock tight, so if they do not turn, don't force them. Only tighten if they have loosened and backed out a little. Everyone who has had this issue (you are #4, I think) was able to fix it this way. So far the two new rails that I have been testing have not shown the same problem - but then again, my version #1 didn't show it either. There is one thing that I would say about manual vs mechanical rails - they are not the same tool. They are similar like a hand saw is similar to a table saw (they both have the word "saw" in the name), but they do different things. A manual rail can never compete, realistically, with an automated rail at above 5X. between the limitations of human motor skills and the engineering of a manually turned lead screw, travel increments of 20um are not possible without modification of the rail. So what I am saying is this - don't buy a manual rail planning to use it for stacking at 5X or greater in the belief that the only difference is one of inconvenience. Even though I showed how the rail can approximate small steps, that is not the same as actually doing a 500 image stack perfectly every time - like a stackshot will. Manual rails are for stacking up to 2 or 3:1 and if you want to go higher, get an automated one. Having said all that, I have been using two of the two Mk. II rails as a specimen positioning stage and they are awesome! Hope that helps!

[@GrzegorzBaranArt]

@@AllanWallsPhotography Yeah, it does help a lot. Thank you so much for such detailed response, veeeeeery appreciated :)

[@TheGregWallace]

Question.....Is the kit wit the ring really worth buy or would you just suggest buying the $99 individual lights b/c that looks like the way you do it?

[@andyplatt6729]

Nice one Alan for the video, I’ve been waiting for this to make my mind up, two on order arriving Friday. Now I can get rid of the Nikon equivalents I have and always disliked because of the battery size. Anyway thank you again Alan

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

I never could understand why Nikon had to design the SB200s to take a battery that you can't find and when you do, costs the same as a box of AAs. Though, come to think of it, the C123 (I think that was the one) might be a higher voltage cell - not sure. You will love these things!

[@MarcelloBranca]

@@AllanWallsPhotography CR 123A and yes they r hard to find even online at times, at a good price

[@ingolfkuntz3704]

Hi Allan, as I expected it, this is the absolut best MF-12 review I was watching so far! And now I'm waiting impatiently for your video about your experience with this speedlights out in the fields! Two short remarks on my part. First and just for information: You give in your show notes as Amazon European store a link to the UK store. That's a problem for continental Europeans like me. Since the Englishmen decided on their Island to be not Europeans anymore I had to pay customs when I buy something from there. Lately I didn't watch out and ordered on Amazon a littleness and didn't made shure that it comes from the UK. And than I annoyed had to note that the customs pay was about the same as the prize itself. ☹ Second you has forgotten a warning regarding the diffusor lemonade like you did for the silica snack! I think you should explicit point out to use only the canister material but not to drink the lemonade itself ... Okay, it takes a little longer but in the end the deadly effect is as eating silica snacks. Consider the enormous amount of sugar in this sweet stuff and the consequences for the teeth, the BMI, and so on ... 😊

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Well just so as you know, Ingolf, I was not allowed to vote but would not have chosen to leave Europe! I am sick of lemonade but it does help wash the silica gel down. I cannot believe how high the duty is on the stuff coming from Merry Old! I hope to get part two out very soon but it not very informative - more of just a walk around with the camera, good fun but not very educational! The lights are mazing outside but even more so indoors. I have never used anything this versatile. Later, A.

[@gordonmcintosh3159]

Hi Allan, you tutorials are always entertaining. I'm wondering if you think that these would give enough room if used on the ring for extreme macro? As you know, the more magnification the closer the subject is to the lens and right now with my Z5 & 24mm lens reversed on about 16mm's of extension (measured at 4:1), I'd say my subject is about 1" from the front (back) of the lens. I'm using a Neewer ring flash right now which is working OK but would like some more flexibility.

[@agnithusaramayaamarathunga4244]

can i use this flash wile charging?

[@alanrecktenwald4239]

I've been using a set for 6 weeks now....love them. I am going to make a diffuser using the foam floor pads like your previous one. I would love a set that ran with an AC adapter!

[@keeskraaijeveld4704]

Curious how you make the diffusers... :)

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Hey Alan! I have been experimenting for a few weeks now and I am happier with single sheets of heavy tracing paper, just cut into 8" rectangles and taped to the top and bottom edges. The reason I like this better than anything else is that the diffusion is pushed out another 4" and this dramatically softens the light. You should give it a try. I will try the foam - is it the same packing material? I have rigged up a charging station in the studio - wrapped 4 individual USB c's into a long pigtail that I suspend over the rig, when it is time to charge up I can hook them all up without removing them from the bendy arms. It has turned out to be a surprisingly effective time-saver.

[@keeskraaijeveld4704]

@@AllanWallsPhotography Ok. Cut in width of the MF12 and then it goes 4 inch forward up and 4 inch back?

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

@@keeskraaijeveld4704 It depends on the thickness of the tracing paper. The stiffer the paper the longer I will will extend the loop. The further the distance from the flash, the more effective the diffusion 4-6" is great.

[@alanrecktenwald4239]

@@keeskraaijeveld4704 I am using the Custom Report Covers from Walmart (pen + Gear) works great.

[@barryt09]

Hi Allan, Once again you have produced a unique and ultra informative video made more interesting by your unique sense of humour (does your two Brother have that too?) The thing that appealed to me about the MF-12 was how lightweight and compact the units are. I can see it having great potential for field macro as well as studio stacking. It sort of pushes you into thinking a different more 'open' light cage could be put together which didn't need to support the weight of several full size Godox flashes with batteries etc. The only thing now is to have the usual mental battle to decide whether I should spend more money and buy a set! Thanks again.

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Thanks Barry, as it happens, these flashes were the inspiration to re-imagine my cage. I knew these lights were in the works and, like you, I saw them as a chance to turn the physical macro cage into a virtual cage, the idea being an infinitely adjustable sphere of illumination coming from light sources with little or no footprint. I was hoping the fiber optics would be up to the task (nope) but these really are. Just being able to fit so many individual sources into the space makes the lighting very dynamic. Hope you are well! A

[@harrr53]

Are the MF12's supposed to show in any way that they are charging? I connect them to the USB and I see nothing to indicate charging is happening. Do they at least show when they are done charging?

[@5RustyBin]

the battery icon fills repeatedly on a cycle when USB plugged in - once fully charged the battery icon just remains full and the graphic doesn't move - from empty to full charge is usually 40-50 mins.

[@BuzzFisher]

Would these work well for water drop photography or need higher power speedlights? New to your channel and finding myself watching video after video.

[@snoogly]

Is there any way you can provide a cutting template for that diffuser? By the way, there is now an adapter to enable the MF12 to work with the round Godox accessories, such as the dome diffuser.

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Sure. I am going to be doing a new short video on my current recommendations for diffusion and I will include cutting templates for each of the diffusers there. I did see the adapters, I just am not crazy about the diffusers themselves. I think that, for extreme macro at least, diffusion has to be accomplished in spaced out layers to get the very gentle gradients I like - you can't get that from a single diffuser.

[@snoogly]

@@AllanWallsPhotography Thanks for the speedy reply! I also came across diffusers made by a chap in the UK, but they are a tad pricey for a pair.

[@keeskraaijeveld4704]

A good diffuser must convince me to buy them.... :) I'm now using some Godox V860II Canon kit's with perfect diffusers and they work well for/in my macro cage....but these flashes are more useful because they are small and lightweightish.

[@johnlambe2912]

Just bought the 2 head set up and a 3rd just for good measure.

[@im3dia]

I must have missed it...did you mention what lemonade I should start drinking? I really want to try those DIY diffusers :)

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

No you didn't miss it - I didn't say because I had forgotten. I already threw the outer wrappers away. Hang on... the rubbish truck hasn't come yet. Be right back......... OK - never doing that again. When I put them in the bin they had a nice lemony smell. Now it is more of a "rotting chicken parts" scent. Oh, the name... Crystal Night...no that was the brownshirts... Crystal Light Pitcher Packets (they can't even spell "picture" right).

[@uteo1]

Hi Allan: Great tutorial. I just bought the MF12 light kit (2 lights) and the XPro trigger. They do great in daylight shoots but I have been disappointed at night trying to photograph frogs, etc. I am wondering if I am not getting the most power out of these. I tried both ETTL (Canon 5DMarkIV) and Manual 1/1 but I still have to brighten in post. Have you used them outdoors at night and, if so, what settings are best?

[@jaybeckerich]

I would guess need to slow your shutter, open your f stop and increase your ISO.

[@5RustyBin]

frogs are pretty big so with a Laowa 90mm for example you should be able to stand back and have the aperture open all the way which might help. The mf12 does pack a punch for its size but ultimately it's a macro photography flash and maybe frogs are too big requiring you to be further away and maybe need a larger speed light. Not sure.

[@SteveKershaw]

Not related but was hoping you could help If you stack images at 1:1 and end up with say a 30meg image, the do the same at 5:1 so you are stacking a multi layered piano, and end up with say a 300meg image, Clearly the 300 Meg image will have much higher resolution, You then export both images as 2000px srgb, witch image will have the most perceived detail? The 300 Meg image starts with the most but will have 10 time the compression than the 30 Meg image

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Hi Steven, I am not sure I understand your question. Your resolution isn't affected by the magnification, it is simply the number of pixels per inch in the photograph. The file size is a function of resolution and image dimensions, so, again, the magnification of the image is irrelevant. Of course the file size of your image will be determined by the compression applied during TIFF conversion and export. So a 5x image at 300dpi has exactly the same resolution as a 1x image at 300dpi. You lose me with the file size - why is the 5x image 10 time larger than 1:1 image? The number of images in the stack doesn't change the file size of the stacked image. You will see less of the subject but in more detail at 5X, but the resolution doesn't change, and unless you are cropping something along the way, the file size won't change either. You just end up with two images of identical dimensions and file size, with the same resolution - just one has a much narrower field of view. If you are talking about some object in the photograph, an antenna for example, you would be changing the resolution if you cropped one image to show the same exact scene as the other. Then you would be decreasing the resolution of the 1X image, relative to the un-resized 5x image, by that factor. I am not sure I am helping you here because I am not really sure I understand the premise. Are you cropping the 1X image to the same scene as the 5X, or changing the canvas size?

[@SteveKershaw]

@@AllanWallsPhotography I am not talking about stacking, I only mention as you would need to stack any image at this magnification, if we have say a 25mm insect then we could frame this at 1:1 and end up with 30 meg image (obviously depending on camera resolution) if you shot the same bug at 5:1 you would need to do 3 or 4 pano images because the bug won’t fit in the image, so you may have 12 to 15 images at 30 meg that need stitching together to get full coverage of the bug, So at 1:1 you have a 30 meg image and at 5:1 you end up with a 300meg image, clearly the latter has more resolution, so if you was printing the image at 300dpi you may have a 20 inch image and a 100 inch image, so for printing large images the extra effort of the pano stitching and much more stacking for 5:1 is worth the trouble, I was wondering if you exported both images at 2000px the extra work would be detrimental due to the jpeg compression from 300mb compared to the compression from the 30mp image, Clearly both images will be the same size and resolution at 2000px jpeg in srgb, The reason I ask is my friend who does a lot of macro with me thinks stitching multi layered stacks will yeald much higher resolution, and I don’t think it will be noticeable when projected at 1600px on the club projector and when thinking about it I wondered if it would loose a bit due to the heavy compression to jpeg in srgb

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

@@SteveKershaw Hahaha - my bad - I didn't understand what the hell a piano had to do with this problem! Now it makes perfect sense - so after a quick reset let me answer your question.... you say the second image clearly has more resolution, but I would argue that the second image is simply larger. Unless you are telling me that the 1:1 lens has poor resolving power compared to the 2um resolution of the Mitutoyo you used for the panorama. So assuming both lenses can resolve at least as well as the camera sensor, and ignoring the the effect of numeric aperture on resolution at 5X, where is the increased resolution coming from? The file size is greater because the dimensions of the image are greater. But the resolution is a function of your lens and your sensor. Again, the only way you can say that the resolution of the second image is increased is if you resize it to the size of the first picture. Which is what you are doing when you export. Reducing the size of the large image is going to involve the removal of data through downsampling (even before any jpeg compression). Though downsampling is better tolerated than upsampling a smaller image, it still degrades the image considerably. But not enough to make any difference when viewed on the screen you are using. The bottom line is that both images will be downsampled and compressed, but the key is that they will both be viewed at 1600px.That is the lowest common denominator. I think your friend can save a lot of time by saving himself all that stacking and stitching until he wants to print his images.

[@SteveKershaw]

@@AllanWallsPhotography thanks Allan, I mixed up resolution and image size, but you have explained what I thought to be correct, appreciate you taking the time

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

@@SteveKershaw I am very glad you asked because it made me think through the question carefully and I learned in the process. Please keep the questions coming!

[@keeskraaijeveld4704]

I've a question. I don't know the good translation for it, but it's about the "guide number" (translated from dutch). The Godox V860II has a guide number of 60. The MF-12 it is only 16. Isn't that a problem or important for macro-use?

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

The guide number is a factor used to characterize the relative illuminative power of a given flash device and can be understood best as the multiple of distance (to subject) and f/number. A flash with a GN of 60 would be able to correctly expose a subject 3 meters away with an aperture as tight as f/20 (it is more complicated, but this is the general idea). So a high GN flash is crucial for lighting scenes at any significant distance from the flash so a good general use flash should have a GN of at least 60. But if your subject is rarely more than a meter or two distant and you will usually be using apertures less than F/20, there is little practical need for that power headroom that you will likely never use. The MF12s GN of 16 is more than enough power for a dedicated macro flash, putting out adequate power to expose subject 2 meters distant at f/8 or shooting at f/16 when the subject is 200cm away. Do not confuse GN with a measure of the device's battery capacity. GN is a rough measure of peak output for purposes of comparison and rough calculations on the run and does not say anything about about how many flashes a given charge might yield.

[@keeskraaijeveld4704]

@@AllanWallsPhotography ok thx!! Then I guess that I must ask Santa to be kind for me and make me happy with a 2 light kit.... :)

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

@@keeskraaijeveld4704 I will tell him when comes in for his portrait this year.

[@Grigoriy360]

Thank you for the great video, Just unpacked mine. For my macro shooting I use CPL filter. Is it possible to have the mounting ring and filter the same time?

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Sure. Just put the filter on first. Of course, turning the filter will also turn the lights.

[@myxomop1326]

That Fittest improvement over the Nisi rail, it appears to have gone completely extinct. If it truly was an upgrade to an already impressive product, I'm surprised that it wouldn't also have the staying power to still be on the market.

[@myxomop1326]

Allan: "it comes with a snack..." me: /scares neighbors with 1am laughter from front porch

[@MarcelloBranca]

they look very similar to the sbr 200 that nikon makes , they r compatible with any brand i guess??

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Yes - they are brand agnostic, as long as you have a trigger (or an on camera flash to trigger them in S1 or S2). And yes, they are very similar to the SB200s, just a lot less complicated.

[@ahmdkhaled2699]

I want to thank you for the great review about Godox MF12 Although it's almost 45 minutes , I never flet bored Your style is amazing keep it up ♥️ But I have a question What about the diffuser attached with Velcro ? How to make it for mine ? What's it made from and where to get it ?

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Thanks Ahmd, I have been asked this by a bunch of folks so I am going to do a quick video on it in the next few days, with all the details.

[@ahmdkhaled2699]

@@AllanWallsPhotography can't wait to see it ♥️

[@ahmdkhaled2699]

@@AllanWallsPhotography I'm Still waiting Alan ♥️ Hope It's Soon 😍💕

[@andyvan5692]

at 36:06 nice few seconds of "b" roll, :-)) .... and I thought only chefs got butter fingers.

[@timoohlsen]

Fantastic presentation, thank you Allan! I got a set of them myself and have been absolutely loving them for dental photography, product, macro etc. I agree with you 100%! They are brilliant except the terrible joint design. I am trying to avoid using it as it could easily damage the plastic housing. I had a similar problem with the Meike R200s but after applying a very thin coat of silicone grease they worked fine. I tried the same with the Godox units unfortunately it only made a minor improvement but worth a try.

[@victormultanen1981]

I answered correct on the question number 6 in quiz

[@SolidYaz]

Hello Allan, This is my first time finding your channel through this video. Wow amazing channel. I just subscribed! Thanks for the awesome information. I take clinical Dental photographs and I'm struggling with the diffuser with my mf12. Can you kindly share how to make those DIY diffuser? Thanks!

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Hi - drop me an email at [e-mail] and I will send you some pictures of how to make the diffusers I woes recommend for intra-oral imaging.

[@stephanarts3405]

'All the way to 49mm, that covers every macro lens I've ever heard of' Me: Looks at the Olympus 60mm/2.8 with a 46mm filter thread...

[@paddyola1]

I had the meike version, barely looks any different.

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

Any good?

[@guffygolfer]

I'm drooling over this lighting. I have a problem. I use a Olympus OM-1 and their 60mm macro lens. It has a 46mm front aperture thread. No where on earth is a macro light set up with 46mm. 49 is as low as they go. Olympus wants a fortune for. their setup.

[@JACKnJESUS]

Can't you simply buy a 46mm to 49mm step up ring and add this?

[@zyban99]

There are so few genuine photography education channels on KZbin. You should be knighted for services to macro.

[@微观大视界]

“It holds perfectly well”--Hahahahahahaha

[@Fat-totoro-cat]

Its a copy of the Nikon R1C1

[@andyplatt6729]

I have the R1C1 and can concur they are the same

[@MarcelloBranca]

well, yes it is 😆

[@AllanWallsPhotography]

It is, in a sense, but there are enough important differences to give it a character of its own - they are much simpler to use and the power management is more practical. The biggest difference is that the MF12s seem to be made for using in a fixed rig as well as on the lens, while the R1C1 would be less practical in the cage (and much more expensive). I think it is, from the perspective of someone who couldn't afford the batteries for the R1C1, an improvement more than a copy.

[@dakmandotcom6682]

@@AllanWallsPhotography Just seen the other day there is an upgrade battery pack for the sbr units using a better battery solution.

[@RRH995]

wow, a 47 minute review video about a flash that doesn't actually show any example images

[@crumpeteer6477]

Allan, I can't get through this in one uninterrupted viewing. Please desist from the wit, to allow me to desist from laughing. In all seriousness... keep it up. Thank you for not beginning your videos with the fashionable, but bloody annoying..."what's up".