The Simple Math of Correct Exposure

[@levelzero9255]

Speed up to 1.25X and enjoy!

[@yofo8621]

lol... hahahahahahahaha SOOOOOO TRUE!

[@staceyfromTulip]

Thank you!!!!

[@hiredphotographer]

Cyril Tibayungwa you are a genius

[@ruidongcai3198]

Great very genius

[@OhCrazyEggs]

1.5x did it for me!

[@HenryFabianGT]

*Why so many dislikes? Dude just explained it perfectly!!* The analogy of the water, bucket, and time is just perfect, even better than the famous triangle. Thank you!

[@umairkhan9062]

The actual Math starts at 9:12

[@Ramasenirama]

Thx

[@jonnysmth67]

Cheers lol

[@danikeebler1662]

I have dyscalculia. It is a learning disability for math. This is the video I have been looking for..He explains it perfectly, slowly and gives good analogy. I give it two thumbs up .

[@danielbelik1927]

jack002tuber, Hand holding your camera. A simple way you can look at it is: If your lens is at 50mm you will need at least 1/50 shutter speed. 70mm you will need at least 1/70 shutter speed. 100mm = 1/100 and so on. Using VR (Nikon, Vibration reduction) or IS (Canon, Image stabilization) will give you an an extra couple of stops to play with as well. So 100mm you can shoot as slow as 1/25 instead of 1/100. I wont confuse you too much with the difference between cropped and full frame sensors now. But if you are using a cropped sensor (which you probably are)...Multiply those numbers by 1.6 for Canon and 1.5 for Nikon.

So for a micro 4/3 camera, which has 17.3mm in width i have to double the numbers (36 / 17.3 ~ 2) ? For example at 24mm it will be 1/48 minimum?

[@aubreymuswema9183]

This is the most comprehensive and simplest explanation of the relationship between the 3 parameters (iso - aperture - shutter speed) - this explanation goes a bit further to explain the concept of stops - which is not done / tackled in other videos - well done

[@annaheya2109]

This is the best explanation for manual exposure I’ve ever heard on the internet! Love the analogy to water pipes! 🚿 It’s 8 years old but still gold

[@kennethgnielsen]

It's all relative. It's all in what you want. There is no definitive answer that the beginning photo is under exposed. It may be perfectly exposed for the intended use as a dark background scene. The best photography class is to go out and take thousands of pictures, tens of thousands of pictures, then choose one or two that you think turned out the way you like. Build from there, but keep on shooting.

[@luisrosario6164]

+Kenneth Nielsen agree 100%!!!!

[@Stoney-Jacksman]

one picture from ten thousand seems a bit exaggerated. But I agree with the rest you are saying. I think the story or what a picture is saying is more important than correct exposure etc.

[@a3an.k]

I am not sure if I agree, rather I would I understand. I think that exposure is not what you feel is good or not since it can be measured. However, the intention of the photograph(er) is a whole different story..

[@regnash9441]

Good advice, but does not take tens of thousands of pictures.

[@danie7kovacs]

Well, wanted to write them same until I realized underexposed means blakced out shadows. It's not neccessaily bad, but still underexposed.

[@stayclassy8479]

This is probably the best lesson online! I've watched many of this kind and this one does a good job explaining basics of photography.

[@2logj]

Thanks .Clear explanation.if you add or decrease a stop then do the same to another parameter. I have another explanation with Algeria LHS = RHS keep ISO fixed Apperture = Shutter speed Eg 5.6 = 1/500 Decrease by one stop =Increase by one stop 4 = 1/250 And vise versa When we cannot go beyond F4 Then decrease or increase ISO and Shutter speed. For eg We cannot go beyond F4 The to decrease by one stop ISO go for ISO 50 and increase shutter speed by one stop ISO 50 =SS 1/500 Hope this helps

[@riz5652]

heres one simple basic guide to help u all... never reduce the shutter speed so as not to blur your pictures due to camera shake etc .. try not to go lower the 1/50 if you can help it.. shoot at average aperture of 5.6 or 4 or lower eg 3.5 or 2.8 if its getting dark (night) and if photo is still dark then bump up the iso till you get a pic you are happy with.. iso 200 or 400 or 800 or 1600 or 3200..keep bumping the iso up.. too high u may get bit grainy but at least u got a decent pic.. in the daytime iso 100 to 800 if needed should take care of most things..tip.. use av mode on camera..play with iso to get good shutter speed and exposure..this is just a basic guide which will improve your pics overnight..Hope it helps..Riz (Moments in time. by riz ali photography)

[@ShaneThomasMcMillan]

Good advice Riz!

[@madtonesbr]

Doesn’t apply if you’re shooting film

[@madtonesbr]

Malik Martin wouldn’t be able to adjust ISO on the fly since your film is presumably fixed but yes, adjust ISO and shutter speed

[@scallen3841]

Regardless editing will fix everything

[@billbadger9479]

It's much better to get yourself a monopod/tripod or learn how to hold your camera properly than to risk having grainy/noisy pictures. Long exposure is a really useful technique after all.

[@MistrBlistr]

This is the SIMPLE MATH of correct exposure?! Holy shit!

[@newtoncraftmc]

Feefye Fofum yeah simple math go back to grade 4 if it's too complicated for you

[@PinguExpert]

lame ^

[@lbradley1841]

@@newtoncraftmc keyboard warrior.

[@WizzRacing]

It's actually easy once you understand why. One stop down is half as much light, one stop up is twice as much light. If your more interested in aperture "More or less back ground seen in the photo" higher gives more back ground ie f22 or less f2.0 Shutter priority gives more control over contrast, motion "speed" and time film\sensor is exposed to light. You can fool the camera with EV + - settings as well. This only applies if the area of interest light is metered correctly. One reason light meters are a valuable tool as light comes from different spectrums not values.

[@mike309saa]

Forgetting that while all 3 variables controls the exposure they also each have a secondary function and/or trade off. Shutter speed means u either freeze motion or get motion blur, aperture is going to determine your DOF (as well as the focal length of lens) and ISO is going to make image clearer or more grainy. So when setting the exposure you have to sacrifice something. With shutter speed the work around is use a tripod or find a way to stabilize it. But say if you want to shoot at F1.8 but image is over exposed and you also wanna freeze motion but you also want a clear grain free image, it can't be done unless u have the ability to add loads of lights which is the alternative. Otherwise you're gonna have to sacrifice something. So you may have to increase aperture but you lose the bokeh that you might have wanted or you sacrifice shutter speed and retain that bokeh but you may have a problem with motion blur depending on the subject, or you can sacrifice ISO but will result in a grainy image.

[@StefanGrace]

I normally like to control 2 sides of the exposure triangle and let the camera control the 3rd. I usually have it in aperture priority with a manual ISO or manual mode with auto ISO. If it's looking too bright or too dark I use the exposure compensation. If I'm in daylight or on a tripod I will use aperture priority with ISO 100 because in daylight it might choose like 1/200 s or 1/600 s which doesn't really have any effect on what the photo looks like. If I'm using a tripod in low light and the subject is totally static then the shutter speed doesn't affect what the photo looks like. If I'm using it hand held in low light I will set the shutter to the longest I can hold it still for which is usually 1 / 35 mm equivalent focal length, set the desired aperture and let the camera decide the ISO.

[@victorgiron8090]

I really appreciated this video because although I could go out and mess around with manual mode all day like some of you say and not saying I won't this helps me because being the very visual person I am If I see a shot and decided oh that will look good "underexposed" or "overexposed" I now know how to balance it out to get what I envision or to at least try and most likely get better results.

[@debbiegiroux6862]

I have watched hundreds of photography videos------yippee-----I finally get it---thank you so very much!!!!!

[@ScoutBobrman862]

The best in-your-face visual/voice instruction videos hands down!!

[@One.Zero.One101]

This is the greatest analogy I have ever seen.

[@nicnuckle5167]

i loved these math videos. glad to see this man has hobbies too.

[@Milaartistique]

He really explained it so well how the three basic elements of photography are related. SUPERB!!!

[@cvillelister]

Best explanation I seen! Thank you for this. I am trying to learn my Nikon D5100, had it for 4 years and have learned from many, but never really understood, just followed the numbers and took lots of pictures to see the differences, however you helped me visualize exactly what I'm doing now with all these crazy numbers.

[@rldickie]

The supposed under-exposure at the beginning is far more interesting than the "correct" exposure. The mystery and moodiness make you look longer at the image in a state of wonder and curiosity. It's an artistic concept called apophasis. It's fucking beautiful.

[@ReedCSings]

You’ve provided a great explanation on how to *adjust* the exposure triangle. But how do you *establish* the exposure triangle to begin with? Meaning, how do you know which shutter speed, iso, and aperture is proper to start?

[@just_some_bigfoot_hacking_you]

Depending on your camera, you can just search the standard settings for starters. But it varies depending who you ask, and what type of photography you like to, such as portrait, landscape, street, nature, night, action, etc. For instance, most action or sports photography use fast shutter speed (mostly use 1/2000 shutter speed) Additionally, there are other factors you should consider such as lighting (Is too harsh or dark?) relative to your subject and background, or if you want to adjust the depth of any of the details, etc. That's the beauty of manual photography, it's complex yet fascinating.

[@leximusmaximus4593]

A precise and simple explanation of a subject most people overcomplicate. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

[@bradpenrose8817]

Really liked the bucket metaphor. I understood the basic concept coming in but that particular metaphor brought it all together.

[@prabirmukherjee8283]

Detail discussion on exposure considering Aperture,Shutter Speed,& ISO is helpful in learning Photography. This lesson is required in learning. Very Very Important.Thanks

[@Sydney-Ghumo]

You make the best tutorials on KZbin. I am downloading them all so I can view

[@BeerGogglesReviews]

I'm probably being very adolescent here, but am I the only person that giggled at the sight of the pink hose? Sorry, I just couldn't help myself.

[@MichaelBSteeleAviation]

lol I did the same

[@Mettalchin]

And this is the comment I've been searching for, I'm not alone 😂

[@BeerGogglesReviews]

You guys should be ashamed. :)

[@BeerGogglesReviews]

I was already struggling with the tripod's middle leg.

[@3manimaniac]

ha!

[@thumbrule]

This is a great tutorial. Easy to understand and follow.

[@JustGeorgiaxD]

This was so informative and easy to follow, the diagrams really helped me put everything together!

[@zoemaireade]

I don't know what everyone is going on about. I thought this video was very helpful. I think it really depends on how people learn. For some people it may be beneficial to break it down through simple metaphors. I do wish there was a little more time spent on the math, but it's a fairly simple concept in the first place (meaning there's really not much to be said about it...in my opinion.)

[@amaranthinebeauty]

I really appreciate this. Thank you for taking your time to help others.

[@ashwinbhagavansrinivas5653]

Great explanation of exposure ! Good example using balanced stool !

[@TheForge10]

you can also throw in exposure compensation as well

[@TheRedrusso]

Exposure comp works only in auto

[@2techshop]

Finally, a good teacher! Thanks for your video!

[@thomasdestry5188]

You are a Mad Scientist. I thought you were the gentleman on Khan Academy with the drawings & “the” voice😚. I completely enjoyed the teaching with the size of the bucket- ISO, width of the pipe- Aperture, amount of time to dispense light- Shutter Speed, were wonderful Picture Word References 🙏🏾

[@danielmead9098]

Is their a video that explains how you know what to set all those on to get the right exposure? For example, if you set the ISO at 400 how do you calculate what to set the f stop and and shutter speed?

[@bannermanmedia]

Clear explanation, easy to understand.

[@tbhv]

the balance to exposure, I feel, is super easy to understand- but it's made more confusing when applying the simple (but abstract) ideas to the actual function of photography (e.g. why is 1/500th of a second to 1/250th 1 stop but so is 1/8 of a second to 1/4 or even more over - so is f/22 to f/16). This said I believe the true art to photography, which is unfortunately not listed in this video, is deciding when you NEED, And more specifically, HOW MUCH you need to change your exposure to match your setting. Because what I feel mystifies so many in this video - is HOW THE PHOTOGRAPHER CHOSE to go to ISO400, 1/15th, F/3.5 in the last Berlin photo. There are clearly certain rules of thumb that are out there- but add to this topics confusion. For example, in an ideal setting where you are using sunny 16 but are standing in the shade Ive heard you should automatically go down 2 stops..

[@lakejindsay]

Great video! One of the best pieces of advice I received on exposure was if the lighting is decent or better, is keep your camera in Auto ISO. Then based on what you're trying to accomplish you can choose to shoot in Aperature or Shutter Priority. This is similar to what you alluded to having to do in the days of Film.

[@godfatherofcinema]

Terrific tutorial. Clearly laid out and thorough. Thanks!

[@colinmurray9144]

I would like to thank you for the explanation. I am no Einstein or mathematician but I understood all of it.

[@fcosmo62]

You seem to have explained equivalent exposure's. You started out saying you were going to trick the camera into presenting 35% gray instead of 18% gray as the aim exposure. I must have missed something. Equivalent exposure will still push to drive the exposure to 15% gray. Seems like you would have to underexpose for the positive to change the aim point. and change the shape of the curve or at least the straight line portion of the curve/(gamma).

[@wvideoyahoodk]

Know it all. Always looking for at good way to explain it to newcomers. You nailed it. Thank you :-)

[@ShamikChatterjee]

A person. Giving lecture.. who is totally confused and diviated with his core topic.. come on man.. time is precious!

[@freshfed]

this is all good and well, but the question is; what about the water source? i.e the scene and intensity/spread of light- the water pressure. That is a huge variable in the equation especially when the pressure is never set (the 18% assumed grey as you put it). Or is that explained by metering a midtone? I do Like the video and the stool metaphor though haha

[@digitalphotographytips8227]

I respect your digital photography tips on math of correct exposure. so educative! Regards!

[@RickMentore]

Fantastic job! I appreciate the time and effort it took to make this clip. Those who condemn this effort are the kind of people who vote for politicians because of excellence in another pursuit, an example would be voting for a retired athlete or because a campaigner wore a nice tie, or because the politician message is a nice catchy phrase. Photograph at its core is not simple, if you want simple stick with your smart phone.

[@b.walker5955]

Wait, I don't condemn this effort at all. I learned a lot. And I vote for people who do excel at outside ventures or businesses. Success is what I want in an elected official. Not a career politician. The art of negotiation is first learned in sports, team work or business ventures. I want my official strong enough not to take bribes or lean to another that can fatten them. So, your metaphor in my case doesn't fit. I love the bucket analogy and water flow, I actually think I grasped the principle of photography. And I would prefer quarter back, green beret, or CEO in office. Lets run things like team work, fighting force or a successful business. ; ) Deepest respect.

[@blackwingvisuals5017]

Half box speed always meter for the shadows! With c41 you will never fail.

[@s3icc0]

Simple math - yes it is, but it does not provide the whole picture. I can afford shutter speed that corresponds with the object or better move I am going to stop and is pretty limited by the lens I use - with 300mm lens I will very probably have problem to take picture at 1/50 (even with optical stabilization), ok you say I have tripod. So the apperture - f/3.5 will give totally different feel to my photo then f/16 and it's all just about depth of field and level of detail I need. And the last important thing are my lenses - zoom lenses are pretty favourite these days (well I don't think pro photographers are watching this kind of videos :-) ). So let's assume I am going to take a picture. First thing I do is selecting a composition - so I select the proper lens or focal length. Then I evaluate what is the main object on the scene I am going to emphasize (is it a face? f/3.5 or less, is it technical picture for analysis f/11 or more, etc ...) this will also answer the question about depth of field, of course with the combination with my lenses. Then I need to understand the movement on the picture, do I want to show a movement or do I want a still moment? That will give me the shutter speed I need. The last thing is ISO - is ISO100 enough for the picture or do I need more light? .... Yes when you are taking picture on the film the ISO is already set, so you have to think accordingly (but I think you selected a film with ISO200 for the purpiuse, right?) SO I am going to say that it is not about what the exposure needs, but what I need the photo to look like and still maintaining the exposure. Sorry for my english :-)

[@rn6045]

s3icc0 omg that was so hard to read that all but its 2020 now and I just finished

[@jbthekidd5349]

Looking for a chart of traditional light stops, maybe put a link for one in the description to make things easier on the viewers

[@donaldcrawford3596]

very good example of basic photography.

[@yoichifranck3753]

cool review man when is a photo over exposure maybe when the shutter speed is too low

[@peterfernandes755]

Great job! A simple analogy to understand exposure.

[@RollinWithSteven]

Very good video and def good points of explanation. Now my question is how do you know when you have "Correct exposure" when introducing a speedlight to your image. For example when I use the stock on camera flash I usually use my exposure meter to determine when I raise or lower a factor being iso, aperture, or shutter speed to compensate for the flash. Also when the flash pops up on my camera it shows that I will be over exposing or under exposing if i use the flash but when I use a speedlight it does not give me the same output. Anyone help please

[@Lysander-Spooner]

ISO is NOT part of exposure. It is applied gain AFTER the sensor is exposed by shutter speed and the aperture opening. All digital camera sensors come with a native ISO which roughly is equivalent to the ISO (ASA) speed of film. Any setting other than native is applied signal gain to the captured image before it hits the A/D convertor and moves on to your memory card. You can see this plainly with SONY made ISOless sensors where you can move the exposure slider in Lightroom and get the exact same result as if you set ISO to that value in camera. Only a fully saturated sensor gives you proper exposure. Anything less is electronic amplification of the data that results in some level of noise.

THIS! thank you for a great explanation.

[@wisdomcalls2475]

Thank you, this was great! I been introducing my daughter into the art of Photography, she understood the principal.thanks "Whoever receive a righteous man, in the name of a righteous man, receives a righteous man reward" Matthews 10:41 and He who gives will never lack,

[@benjieagustin8768]

subscribed. You explained in details. Mabuhay ka !

[@dbwingallan]

Good explanation on shuttle_Apecture_iso and stop(s). Thks.

[@ldeguzman]

But what is considered correct exposure? How do you know before taking a shot?

[@riwajrai]

Take random shot n preview.

[@theasadrakib]

Thanks for the nice explanation.

[@ravifernando1637]

Thanks for explaining this in a easy way to understand. Any tricks to calculate these figures in an emergency? Like on the road, in a party, due to lightning conditions and were people moving? Also about a lenses. Only one. On much money to buy many lenses. Thanks 🍎

[@GentleandCruelFB]

Great comparison to the running water!

[@StevenTorrey]

Does the math change when you use an extended lens on your standard lens?

[@pracquet]

I already fully understand the math, and basics, of exposure but, if I didn't, I'm not sure that this would help very much!

[@HenryFabianGT]

Well I just started learning photography theory, no background, and this helped me inmensely.

[@donsoley746]

Excellent explanation.

[@BeeStingBea]

very good explanation.

[@Forhealth-7]

thank you so much for taking the time to explaine this concept to me and the others it was realy simple and clever !!

[@FabioNucci]

Best explanation so far! Thanks dude!

[@MANUELHIJODENELY]

thank you very much that was no brainer explanation and very straight to the point good job.

[@bbalila]

Can you please explain how to hand write on the screen?

[@paganphil100]

In short.....set your shutter speed or aperture (depending on the subject) and then adjust the other two "legs of the stool" to get the correct exposure.

[@mistersofty12345]

very clear and easy to understand. can finally get the camera off auto

[@ShaneThomasMcMillan]

Sweet Che! Go forth and take great photos! And drop us some examples some time!

[@balasubramaniankaruppasamy6629]

VERY EASY WAY TO GET INTO THIS, YOU TAUGHT VERY SIMPLE GREAT , GOOD TEACHER ILU

[@alicenwonderland3813]

I don’t get the analogy. Wolfcrow used that with a Donkey and a bucket which was just as bad. Changing the shutter speed affects how sharp the picture turns out depending on what was going on... so it’s all based on what you’re trying to take a picture off ....

[@deepin2urheart]

Is ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed directly proportional or Inversely proportional

[@GBSheridan]

This is a seriously excellent video tutorial. Thank you.

[@joyemad9132]

This is very helpful!! Thank you so much for this great video!

[@opineme]

Buckets, pipes, water, etc. - very convoluted. If you want to explain the relationship between film, aperture, and shutter speed, you must first understand how and what determines film sensitivity ( and what the numbers mean). .Then you can show how the camera controls the light getting to the film. It actually becomes much more interesting if you explain how the numbers are arrived at, but, unfortunately, even most photography teachers (and almost all photographers) are ignorant of this.

[@rectify2003]

You are very good at explaining, with great analogy's. Thanks again.

[@crisnein6092]

I am new to photography and I so confused. I currently have a Canon DSLR. In this video you talk about using variables to achieve the correct exposure. My confusion is that the light meter is always changing and how do you keep these settings because of that? If you set the light meter near "0" that should be a correct exposure right? I feel completely lost.

[@santosborrero354]

CRIS NEIN. you have to use Manual Mode.

[@chriscorbin9565]

The light meter in the middle means an average exposure of 18%grey & that is all. If you were taking photos of snow or coal it wouldn't be a correct exposure.

[@senthilrajanr1]

wow nicely explained.. easy to remember.. Thanks a lot. Great job..

[@mindyourownbusiness5589]

You have made it sound MORE complicated than it really is!!

[@Sallybunckle]

This is all good and well but where did all these starting figures come from..? How did your camera come up with these starting figures? And how would I know if the camera got it wrong.? Shouldn't people learn how to interpret what the camera see's so creatively they know how to adjust it to taste ? confused about exposure !

[@RedroomStudios]

the starting figures come from the light value that your camera reads from whatever scene you are taking a photo of. your camera is sensitive to the light. in auto mode your camera makes all the calculations for you. changing the setting of how your camera calculates the light value - whether based on an average of the whole scene, center weighted or spot reading will give you different results. the camera never "gets it wrong" - it may give undesired results but that is the fault of the operator. changing one of the variables such as ISO will in turn change the length of exposure needed to capture that scene. changing the aperture setting will affect the length of the exposure. I am not going to be able to explain it any better than this guy did. regarding your comment about interpreting what the camera sees - in the age of digital cameras with unlimited frames and the instant feedback of seeing your results right away allows you to make adjustments and take another shot. it is almost unnecessary to know this information, but if you are still confused and really need to understand this, I would suggest taking a basic photography course. once you have learned it you can make adjustments without really thinking about it using the EV adjustment and without doing any calculations. my camera and many cameras these days have a live preview screen which allows you to change exposure settings and preview what the scene will look like with those settings applied. one general rule would be in bright sunny scenes you need to under expose and in dull cloudy scenes you should over expose. good luck!

[@oceandrew]

Those figures are what your camera gives you when it's working as a light meter and you've selected a proper area to expose for middle grey. If you point your camera's meter at any object it will give you feedback on how to move your dials and knobs (aperture, shutter speed or ISO) to expose it in the middle as a middle grey tone. If the object you selected to meter off of is indeed a mid grey tone you're in luck. But you run the risk of over or under exposing if it isn't.... though not to the extreme of the examples used at the beginning of the video. With practise you find what are good areas to meter off of or even how to creatively select elements in your scene you want to go darker or lighter to set the tone for the overall image.

[@fabiolsmineiro]

Awesome explanation, thank you!

[@aviator408]

Nicely done!

[@durango-CODEBUILDER]

It could be underexposed but the photographer could have intended it that way... I kinda like it. Also what would happen if I used a 125 film speed on a camera that only has 100iso?

[@sibdasbagchi4952]

nicely explained

[@Corruptness]

I actually like the first underexposed picture, all the doorway is missing is white or red eyes ;)

[@teodormaxim5033]

Well, you do not have to always use the correct exposure. Be creative!

[@haken29a]

Thanks for the video ;) I love the analogies

[@markcruise3262]

Ow I didn’t understand what set will i do?

[@rajendranraj3621]

Is it correct when light let is increased u are reducing iso. Is it not reversely proportional.

[@johannesweber1347]

good explanation, but you don't want to chose an aperture of 3.5 to take a shot of a whole city because of your depth of field.

[@ShaneThomasMcMillan]

In general, you are right. Though not every landscape shot neeeeeds to be shot at f/8. In the end it is a creative decision.

[@CraigMansfield]

I like how you explain things. I know a lot of what you've said in this video, but I like how you teach people. :) Nice one. (being English, I wish people would say "maths", but that's by-the-by).

[@jaakkokuu]

damn. I fell asleep. but I was pretty tired

[@marpuebla9148]

Jaakko Kuusela hahahaha same here but I tried hard not to and understood everything

[@garycommunity]

same here :)

[@samanshafigh]

Then I suggest you guys all go and just use the Auto mode of your cameras

[@samanshafigh]

You are welcome

[@lisaporteous3689]

Better vids than this...soooo slow

[@quitplayin7780]

Can someone explain how 1/100 is longer shutter than 1/500? Really confusing. How is more light coming in at 1/100 than at 1/500? The abandoned airport needed more light but yet only got a shutter speed of 1/100...I'm thinking 1/500 let's in more light. No?

[@odemata87]

but isn't ISO applied to the photo after the shot has been taken? How is it apart the exposure?

[@chriscorbin9565]

Raoul Simon no it isn't applied after. You may be thinking about noise reduction on a jpeg.

[@TonyArena]

Great video. What program do you use to draw on the screen like that?