Altermotor - Convert an Alternator into a Brushless DC Motor

[@ajingolk7716]

You can just replace the coil of the rotor by a magnet like those in load speakers but the must be though or they will shatter.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

I like the idea of just replacing the electromagnetic coil windings of the rotor core with a permanent magnet. That is something I was looking to explore at first since I wanted to use as much of the alternator as was easily done. Alas, the core is pressed together on the shaft. It would require a lot of heat and pressure to open it in order to replace the windings with the ring magnet you are suggesting. Another reason I did not want to go with a ring magnet was flux density of material. Ceramic magnets used in loud speakers have a low flux density compared to rare earth magnets. Also, the pole fingers of the original alternator core don't contribute their iron weight to much more than polarity distribution, the magnetic flux reducing as you get further away from the magnetic source. Having a Halbach array of rare earth magnets on the surface of the core makes the flux incredibly dense, giving more cogging torque, leading to increased overall torque and efficiency of the motor.

[@flyingdutchmanindustries5877]

I'm so used to watching videos that skip disassembly, or run them at like x600 speed that most of this was like watching everything in slow motion/timelapse 😂

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

LOL, I know, right? I haven't nailed down the balancing act of showing how to do something, for those who haven't done it, and the people who already know, breezing past it.

[@cmosdaboss]

How do you connect six phases together to make three phases?

[@JUNDomingo-zk3bi]

nice video thank you for sharing watch here in philippines

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Thank you for watching! I hope you got something useful out of it.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

I would think you would want to use 12 magnets since the original wound rotor had 12 poles.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

You absolutely could!

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

In fact, it is looking like 12 poles is an ideal topology. The original rotor had 8 poles, so it's interesting to see that 12 is doing so well!

[@patrickgardner1787]

Thanks for the vid. I don't have access to a printer. Any ideas where I can get the printed part that you use. Cheers.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

I totally do! Send me an email (on my channel page), and we'll discuss it further.

[@SoftelMachines]

What if stator is given AC 3 phase 110volrs supply? With pmt magnet rotor, it should work like a synchronous motor.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Absolutely! A BLDC motor is also known as a PMSM (permanent magnet synchronous motor)

[@Diycanada560]

How much power does it output? Does it really help or make any difference to convert it to permanent magnet instead of keeping the electro magnet other than you don’t need the 12v supply? I looking at different options to power my small boat, and using a twin converted car alternators looks interesting and very affordable too.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

The power difference is night and day. There is so much more torque with the permanent magnets. From what I gather, boats need good torque. I was able to stop the shaft with my hand with the 12v electromagnetic core, but almost ripped skin off with the permanent magnet cores. So far, I have hooked up a 6S 120A speed controller and got really good power out of them (around 2600W input, at ~80% efficiency is 2080W output) while the whole system stayed cool.

[@Diycanada560]

@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany congratulations for the very good job! 2k w is impressive. Have you tried using the original rotor by cutting the teeth or even removing them to recover the shaft and placing magnets or a ferrite magnet? I don’t have a 3D printer, so probably I would try that avenue first

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

@@Diycanada560 I took a good long try at the electromagnetic cores. Those claws are pressed on with a massive amount of force. I couldn't get them to budge. Cutting would have taken way too long. For a 3D print, you can try Xometry or Craftcloud for getting an affordable print. The latter seems to have really good prices and I use them a lot, especially for SLS Nylon 3D printing of RC car parts and some of the earlier iterations of the permanent magnet cores (made from cheap PLA).

[@auto4x478]

What is the difference between 3 wire of the coil?

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

The 3 wires from the coil are the 3 phase wires that are 120 degrees out of phase for commutation. The other end of the wires are joined together to form a Wye configuration. If you want a more in depth explanation, you can search for commutation and electromagnetism.

[@chusdiaz9160]

Te olvidastes de las turbinas para ventilar,de lo contrario,calentará y encima si son imanes de 80°c ,perderá magnetismo 🤷‍♂️¡No es solo estética,es eficiencia y garantía en horas de funcionamiento !

[@brianjohnson2890]

I was going to do this until I realized my 10mm was missing. If you know you know.

[@24cata24]

Nice project. Question, how can i mount hall sensors on a 600w radiator fan motor. The motot works as it is with a bldc controller but when i give it more throttle it starts to miss the field and run rugh. I have the sensors from a hoverboard motor but i dont know where to place them, distance between them , angle or what. Thank yoy

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Depending on the controller, the sensor positions should be either 60 of 120 degrees apart. Attach them to the edge of the stator, close to the permanent magnets. When you supply the required voltage (likely 5V) you should either get a signal or not depending on if you pass a N or S pole by it. I am working on another video about integrating hall sensors, but I need to get another sensored speed controller, one that self-calibrates.

[@24cata24]

@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany Controller is a 120 angle, the motor has the magnets in the center. Thanks for the info i will give it a try . Hope you cover this topic about hall sensors placements in another video. Subscribed 😉

[@victorjensen2691]

Where do the e wires go to.

[@victorjensen2691]

3 wires.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

If I understood you correctly, you want to know what the 3 phase wires connect to? Which part? They go from the motor controller to the motor. Within the motor, they are wound around the stator and the ends are either in a Wye (Y) or Delta (∆) configuration.

[@KD-ix1xx]

You left out the part about how to wire it???

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Are you talking about wiring in the motor or hooking it up to a speed controller? I'd be happy to provide you with how to go about doing it.

[@guiterman6263]

I may be wrong but it looks like you are making something simple very hard all I seen that done this just used the parts in the thing . And hot glue on that thing will not last

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Thank you for taking the time to comment on my video! Simple and hard are very subjective terms. The way I see it, there are two options when turning an alternator into a motor. 1. You remove the diode pack/s, supply 12VDC to the brushes to power the electromagnetic core and provide the 3-phase AC power from a brushless motor controller. But now you are limited to what you can attach to the original hardware and extremely low output since it was made to charge a small lead acid battery, not turn 2+kW into moving a few hundred pounds. 2. You do what I did and remove the core and diode pack/s, insert a 3D printed core with permanent magnets and just give it 3-phase power. Now you can effectively turn power into movement and change the configuration of your driveline to suit your application. Mind you, actually tried the first method and that's why I came up with the second. My most recent version has no glue at all and I plan to either fiberglass or CF the outside of the core if this PETG version fails. Gotta love rapid prototyping!

[@janstemmet9824]

Wires where are they go

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

It depends on how many you have coming out of the stator. If 3, then those 3. If 6, then you'll have to terminate one end into either a Y or delta configuration.

[@MO69RS]

very good job man.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Thanks!

[@wolfgangboettcher3126]

Logig

[@azertaieb442]

Great job i love it so mutch ..but you shood to installe the hall sensor to be a real motor ..thank you

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

I have already installed hall sensors on two of them. Unfortunately, the available sensored ESC that I have does not have an auto-calibrate function like the Sabvoton controller I have in my power wheels i8. For now, they still have plenty of torque being sensorless.

[@azertaieb442]

@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany waw that's so great ..just verifie the correct angle 60 or 120 degree of hall position on the stator ...thank you so mutch again

[@azertaieb442]

I wan really show your next video about last alternator the big one ...i thenk that will be icroyable

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

@@azertaieb442 I need to print a new core for it first, but I definitely plan on making a video on it

[@azertaieb442]

@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany i hope that

[@wolfgangboettcher3126]

Gleichist nichtgleich,Belastung geht das Ding unter keine Lichtmaschine nutzen

[@wolfgangboettcher3126]

Vorsicht das Ding baut eine negative pol auf,und es gibt keinen Schlumpf

[@wolfgangboettcher3126]

Andere anwendund geht besser

[@jovicaspasic3203]

Stupidum!!!