Amiga 600 Repair & Recap

[@Manny2211]

There’s nothing better than spending time on vintage equipment especially on those we loved growing up that were hard to get when younger with no money to get into them to me it’s like living my childhood dream please keep it up and don’t ever quit

[@ModernVintageGamer]

this was fantastic viewing. your recapping skills are legendary!

[@itdoesnotcompute]

Which song is playing at around 16:50? I think I remember the intro from before, but can't figure out whose song it is.

[@MsMadLemon]

That's called 'Monday' by Edvin Fladen..all music is credited towards the end of each video btw

[@itdoesnotcompute]

@@MsMadLemon Oh, why didn't I think of waiting until the end of the video. - Thank you anyway and keep up the good work! :)

[@ralfr.5974]

Its Allways a Pleasure to See, how You investigate Problems and Fix it❤

[@ToddsNerdCave]

I finally got around to checking this out. Excellent stuff Maddi! I am in the midst of cleaning up battery leakage (darn you Varta!) and recapping an A4000 I just picked up. Fun times.

[@bwack]

Great work ! Always fun following a long in your videos!

[@rrafal]

Always use flux for better soldering, better thermal transfer, better element protection. Glad you repaired it!

[@n13ldo]

Thanks Maddie Lemon. My stock 600 decided to black screen and asking around discord someone mentioned this video. Turns out that C611 on my board decided it wanted a short break from being soldered on the board. Removed it, 600 was okay and even CTRL-A-A reset ok. Reattached C611 and its still working. No idea why its now working so I guess there's a cracked joint somewhere nearby. Expecting it to reappear at some point. This video helped a lot in understanding the problem. Good work! :-)

[@عبدالكريم-ن7غ1ذ]

لو تكرمتي ممكن تعطيني اسم الموسيقى 5:14 موسيقى جميلة

[@MsMadLemon]

نعم طبعا, اسمها: X-Out (Remix) by MRT وانها هنا: remix.kwed.org/files/RKOfiles/MRT%20-%20X-Out.mp3

[@عبدالكريم-ن7غ1ذ]

@@MsMadLemon شكرا جزيلا 💗

[@electronscape]

WHAT a video!!! You can see the break in the trace under the 555!! How awesome, Turrican 2 music, game play, doesn't say Amiga MORE ;) !!!!

[@metallitech]

F'n spoiler! :)

[@RabidGerry]

Wow I'm a fan already! You love Amigas and other great stuff!! Cool channel and informative videos. I just bagged me an A1200 so I'm hopefully back into Amiga properly now. Only had a 500 as a kid so looking forward to the A1200!! Keep up the great videos :)

[@evoGage]

Turrican II theme is always so epic.

[@jaycee1980]

BTW when using hot air near the keyboard connector, something remarkably effective in protecting the connectors is to cover them in double-folded aluminium foil (straight from the kitchen!). I've been doing this with my own machines and there's been no signs of deforming. It also protects against accidental soldering iron slips!

[@MsMadLemon]

That's a good tip actually thanks! Someone mentioned kapton tape also, not sure why i didnt think of it, I got a reel of it lol. It was my first SMD recap, we live and learn :o)

[@DavidKlasinc]

@@MsMadLemon I used kapton tape on the connector and kept the temperature of the air on 280°C. I still managed to damage the connector a little bit. It was working but the ribbon was a bit loose in it. I ended up replacing the connector, just to be on a safe side.

[@HeyBirt]

Good job! It is common to leave the power supply connections off of schematics like that. Quite often they will also just show all the decoupling caps in one corner of the page which makes it hard to look at the schematic and figure out which cap is which. I think they are drawn by engineers who never have had to repair boards for a living :)

[@damianscott431]

Indeed, as believe if we were able to scroll down to the bottom of the page of the circuit diagram shown in the video we would see all the decoupling capacitors and the IC reference numbers (including U14) & their respective ground and supply pins (ie. Pin 1 & 8 for U14). Oh and always great video keep them coming. Cheers

[@vaughanmitchell8218]

Thank you for another great video! And that reminds me, Almost 30 years ago when I had a new car battery charger, But I used it for other things like car stereos and that, It also had a problem with the bridge rectifier, And it was unrelated to what I was using it for! It had 6-12v and Hi-Lo settings, And when it was on Lo it was off and when it was on Hi it was Lo! So I just linked a diode between 2 of the 4 terminals! And it worked!

[@edoo25]

I'm about to re-cap my A600 very soon -- this was very helpful! Thanks!

[@madscientist132]

I love your videos, i'm a tech from Argentina and i do much of the same stuff you do in your videos at home.

[@clarkkent6026]

did yerba mate bring u here? or was it the cool repair skills? I came for both and stayed for the lovely tunes

[@madscientist132]

@@clarkkent6026 The repairs, i have an electronics bench at home and i code in Objective C. I know personally a female tech althought she had quit this stuff, i wish she didn't. I don't like Mate stuff at all.

[@clarkkent6026]

@@madscientist132 yo tambien programo en Objective C pero no creo que encuentres una mujer como Ms Mad Lemon con sus habilidades en hardware , que componga musica tan linda y sea tan sexy; mujeres programadoras hay bastantes, que ademas reparen hardware retro ya no creo y que hagan musica a la vez menos todavia

[@madscientist132]

@@clarkkent6026 we had to find her... i just don't make music, i'm in the field of alternative operating systems and open hardware development.

[@UncleAwesomeRetro]

Nice job :) You must be so happy that you were able to repair it :) I have been repairing c64's and it's so great when you are successful.

[@SteveFusionX]

Best video I've seen all evening 🌃 you have all kinds of serious skills, lady.

[@brostenen]

Good work. Congrats on getting it back to life.

[@LEKProductions]

Reverse biasing electrolytic caps can cause them to explode, leaving a real mess inside your equipment. If you want the best caps, look at the bill of materials in the service manual and buy each of the caps you need from a reputable source (RS, Farnell, etc.), you'll be able to get high-end caps such as Nichicon and Panasonic for the same price you'll buy them in packs of no-brand caps sold on various retro computer sites.

[@swesda4et]

No ceramic capacitor?

[@roygillotti4615]

You did better than I did, I de-soldered the audio Jacks to make room to get at those caps to ensure I didn't damage the keyboard port...

[@louismazzei5862]

Great video as always and thank you for the reminder to have my A1200 re-capped! :)

[@WDeranged]

Shocking treatment from AmigaKit. I recently had my A600 recapped by Retropassion and although it took a while they did a very professional job, super clean.

[@Synthmonkey]

Nice job and a very inspiring video, getting my A600 out of storage later after many years (just hoping the caps haven’t gone bad over time) :)

[@neilpurvey8625]

Teamwork! Loved this video!

[@simons1468]

I'm confused. Doesn't the one sticker on the board mean that the caps were already replaced? Recapping a recapped board? Do I get that wrong?

[@blogfiles]

Very informative video! And those reverse-installed capacitors are really shame for that company. How fortunate those caps did not went blue genie, causing more damage along the way.

[@godmonkeyjr]

Great video! (And totally not because I found out I'm not the only one to use my hot air system to warm my coffee and tea!)

[@Manny2211]

Hey if you ever find a Texas instrument ti 99 love to see you work on it

[@imqqmi]

In schematics it's common that power is omitted, it's usually drawn in a different location as to not clutter the schematic. Maybe traces were damaged when recapping? Typically capacitors are placed to decouple power traces.

[@jaycee1980]

It's quite common by the way for chip supply voltages to be shown on a separate part of the schematic... usually alongside suitable decoupling capacitors. In the case of the 555 timer here, look near "DECOUPLING" on that page ;)

[@MsMadLemon]

Why though, I find it annoying :op freakin needless referencing lol

[@jaycee1980]

@@MsMadLemon it's easier when you're designing a schematic to keep all the power connections and decoupling together. That's especially the case when you've got a big chip that has many power pins

[@andyfraser5876]

I had the same problem after recapping an A600. I traced it to the 555, so removed it, cleaned underneath then replaced it with a new one - all was well again. Fortunately I had no damaged tracks from the leaked electrolyte. I suspect that the original 555 would still have been OK once the board was cleaned, but It was safer to just replace it.

[@mk_games_official]

Exactly the same issue I have NOW. I think. I've recapped board and black screen with caps lock ON. I've ordered 555 chip. Hope it will solve the issue....

[@blackterminal]

Could you bypass the reset circuit?

[@MsMadLemon]

No, I fixed it.

[@blackterminal]

@MsMadLemon I was meaning is it possible if someone doesn't want to replace the 555?

[@RMoocher]

How you been Maddi? Good to see you're still making vids with your talent. I got a new ram expansion card for my A500 recently, and boy it's so small Compared to the original ones, haha.

[@sikkepossu]

26:10 It is quite common that the power supply connections are not in the same schematic diagram as the signal connections. I'm pretty sure that there are separate page where all the chips and their VCCs and GNDs are along with the decoupling capacitors and such. You should have called me. :P

[@MsMadLemon]

Yeah they are listed separately but i find it a bit annoying. And well.. I did figure it out with my own intuition in the end :op

[@Smartphonekanalen]

Nice teamwork and patching. :) This is a easy work to fix bad traces. If I understand the basic? If it was a broken IC (or other component) it happens to be a lot of continuity to the "ground" all over the chip where it shouldn't be? Some traces are for powering IC's and some are for signals.

[@preferredimage]

Nice fix! A good tip with SMD and flux is there is no such thing as too much flux. Ideally get flux in a syringe and really daub it on as soldering becomes super easy when the flux makes the solder magically jump to metal on metal. Take a quick look at louis rossman who does mac repairs on youtube for how much he's using as a guide. With enough flux you can use a massive solder tip and just run it along all the pins and they'll all just be soldered with no blobs etc. Glad you resurrected the 600 though.

[@MsMadLemon]

Thanks Mat, I did use flux, after someone commented to use it I realised that i've unintentionally edited out all the parts where I did use it lol! .. But I didnt use too much, maybe i should be more generous with it now that you've mentioned. Thanks for the tip.

[@preferredimage]

@@MsMadLemon I'd recommend getting a scrap board and having a practice go. Take an SMD chip off with your hot air station and resolder using either the hot air after retinning the pads or an iron (google drag soldering) you can really drown a chip in flux and the more you have, the easier the soldering is. Flux in a tube over flux paste any day and you'd just use IPA to clear up afterwards.

[@pabllosee]

@@MsMadLemon Madi I recommend You to watch Luis Rossmann videos , where he repairs macbooks. He's good with micro soldering. "There is no too much flux". Where did You get it your flux? I've spotted words written in Polish. Greetings from Poland.

[@MsMadLemon]

@@pabllosee I already watch ;o)

[@MonidethPen]

At 19:00, you can see that there is a trace/track between U14 (NE555) pin 8 (VCC1) and U14 (NE555) pin 4 (RST), underneath the chip itself , but this has a via through it. It could be that this via is corroded and breaks the trace? Also, the trace from the U14 (NE555) pin 2 to R611 actually goes through the pad of C611, (and goes to Q622 via the bottom PCB layer and back up to the top layer!), but at 19:40 it looks like the pad is gone - so that is probably why there is no continuity? You can also see these traces for the A600 Rev 2A PCB layout at the excellent Amiga PCB Explorer (www.amigapcb.org/)

[@DaveRepairs]

You could come and meet Scott / Retro Bench at the next South West Amiga Group next week near Bristol ... see our website for more info .. also many youtubers will be there and the Checkmate case presentation and Vicky will be doing a DPaint tutorial.

[@viclordbelial]

For SMD, remove all the solder, clean, put flux, then, put the new ic. Then add solder on solder iron a little bit, then in a 45 degree angle put heat, then add a tiny bit of solder. I allways fix position on 1 pin, then do the other pin the the opposit direction. When there is like hundred of pin, you can just move from one pin to the other, the a lot of solder. at the end, you remove short with unsolder wig and make them manualy!, Since you have a heat gun, you can place solder on all pad, then flux, and the ic will stuck on the flux, you put heat, and the ic will sit in place.

[@BradR86]

Thank you for posting this. I picked up a 600 while visiting New Zealand (hot tip, Amiga gear is super cheap there, $240 for what is normally $6-700 on ebay in Australia, if you're visiting, get the trademe app). I got home and tested mine, and it has distortion / crackling on the audio output, and some funky colour flickering on the composite video output. So, the first order of business is recapping!!!! I've only ever soldered through-hole when I studied electronics back in the mid 2000s. I feel a bit more confident with those surface mount capacitors now. What is they type of iron you're using to remove the capacitors? Is it like a solder vac or something? I don't suppose my fine-tip variable temp iron will do the trick for those caps?

[@blackterminal]

It's not that cheap in NZ now. I have two a600 and sadly neither work.

[@MrSegAsh]

I need to do this to my Amiga but I keep putting it off. Looks very fiddly, However you did a really nice job. 😀

[@jasonlee7816]

Do you keep putting it off because it looks fiddly? take it to a specialist that fixes (repairs) computers

[@GadgetUK164]

Awesome job! Lovely detective work there tracing it to the 555 timer! I am impressed =D AmigaKit should be giving you a gift or partial refund for this imo.

[@StRoRo]

Spoiler alert!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Right I'm gonna spoil something for you. Avengers Endgame: Batman dies, the Tardis gets destroyed and during the court case prosecuting Thanos for the dealth of half the galaxy, the infinity gauntlet didn't fit so you must acquit.

[@GadgetUK164]

LMAO

[@MsMadLemon]

@@StRoRo LOL!

[@hayesmaker64]

Nice save.. Well done!

[@MsMadLemon]

Thanks!

[@pajda102]

Nice video Im impressed with your skills. I wouldn't have a clue what to do :) I've got a question about your A600V. Do you think that Vampire would handle systems like AmigaOS 4.1 (I saw a video on A1200/040 but it was Final Edition and it was incredibly slow but they do a version for classics aswell) MorphOS or Aros? Aros is free to download and Morph could be too much to handle. Would you give it a go?

[@MsMadLemon]

Thank you :o) No you wont be able to load Amiga OS 4.1 with the vampire because OS4.x requires a PPC processor, Vampire is 68k.. For OS4.1 to run on actual Amiga hardware you'd need an Amiga with a PPC accelerator (that is what the classic version is for). AROS is free but AROS for classic I dont think its up to scratch, i've heard its not up to scratch.

[@Kimomaru]

Great video, Lemon. You're going to make me want to buy an Amiga. For me, it was the one that got away, my parents wouldn't buy me one :( My only question is how usable is it if I get it and add upgrades? My understanding is that, online, it's not very fast.

[@kikencorp]

What a great job Maddi! Which hot air station do you have? I'm thinking of getting one but am kinda lost. I wanna get into surface mount stuff so I can fix all my stuff.

[@MsMadLemon]

I actually did a video on it when i got it :o) kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIG5ln6YrJqgl80

[@richarddegeus715]

Hey , just a friendly advice, VCC is show as decoupling on the bottom of the schematics. Other than that , Good Job Ms Lemon.

[@danielson9579]

Great result 🙂

[@RayBrooks0]

This was a great video! Thanks, I learned something 😊

[@XBary_PL]

Nice, you've learned to master programming ;)

[@MrMarcobule]

Hola!Eres muy talentosa haces un trabajo increíble,me encantó tu canal, además de que eres un genio eres hermosa! enhorabuena, saludos!.

[@subigirlawd_7307]

Love your work 👍❤

[@bachaplegic]

Another great video

[@amigang]

Very good informative video

[@mariegriffiths]

Those old Everready batteries in the background.

[@jaycee1980]

Professionally recapped, and the recapper installed capacitors backwards, and didn't repair a broken trace around a known problem area in the A600? I'd be asking for a refund.

[@MsMadLemon]

They completely denied anything, I was not happy about it what so ever. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nanXl5h5rbVoe6c you may remember from here (it's this same Amiga I had recapped)

[@kulamario2]

@@jaykay5486 if u want recap I can do for u I live Ireland Write to me [e-mail]

[@rasz]

To be fair Commodore itself did this too. CD32, A1200, A3000T, A4000T all have factory backward mounted caps :)

[@MsMadLemon]

Yeeah that i'm aware of, but should be corrected at recapping stage right? also it depends on which caps are reversed, for example audio caps reversed arent as much of a big deal as other caps can be.

[@rsuryase]

If you can include a summary of the problem and the solution at the end of the video or description, that'll be helpful.

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

USE FLUX! it makes the soldering so much easier!!!!

[@MsMadLemon]

I did by the way, now looking back I just realised I unintentionally cut the part out where I show the usage of flux. :o)

[@Internationalmanofmysteries]

Amtech NC-559 highly recommended. Makes especially the smd stuff easier cause it's sticky af. Rossmann approved brand :)

[@AxelDominatoR]

@@Internationalmanofmysteries And use the right amount. 1 or 2 milliPauls will do ;)

[@analognexus]

Overpriced Amtech is not necessary!! I can highly recommend "Riesba NC 559", search this@aliexpress. I solder every SMD and other stuff with riesba flux. It's perfect.

[@Internationalmanofmysteries]

@@analognexus That stuff looks like a Chinese copy of the genuine article. Another good reason to keep the fume extractor on while soldering. I'll give it a go. Thanks for the tip!

[@Channel-Zx]

well done enjoyed the video and had a laff with you!

[@Oldgamingfart]

And congrats to the PVM's on their new edition! ;D

[@geraldv203]

Well done! :3 To avoid melting connectors, you can use Kapton tape and/or aluminium foil tape. It's not a miraculous shield against all of our mistakes though ;) I'd wish you show the 555 signals on your oscilloscope :3 It's rare but schematics can got some mistakes. You'll find some weird tricks more often.

[@rrafal]

amiga schematics dont have some "obvious" connecions like vcc and gnd... but yeah when you take a look at element datasheet it all become clear. Just need to find the datasheet

[@stefanvanraemdonck9054]

Why does this have 3 dislikes. I don't get it.

[@ModernVintageGamer]

Atari ST users

[@jasonlee7816]

people that own a game console they think the consoles are better

[@cirebyte7588]

رمضان مبارك

[@MsMadLemon]

شكرا لك!

[@steveo1964]

marry me

[@rrorge]

Great work, and Monday by Random Voice, my favourite chiptune playing from about 15 mins in!!!