Amiga 600 Retrobright and SD Harddisk

[@HeyBirt]

Jan, I sent you one of the first kits which had the interference problem with floppy drives. That was a silly oversight on my part. Now I include an additional two rear clips without the 'wings' so they don't interfere with the floppy drive. If someone is fitting a Gotek, etc. they can use all four 'winged' rear clips. So, new kits come with the two side slips, 4 back slips with 'wings' and 2 back clips without 'wings'.

[@JanBeta]

Ah, that makes sense! Not a huge problem just filing one of the clips down though. Nice work! :)

[@EmilOppelnBronikowski]

Damn, I drank too much yesterday and was on a lookout for some calming videos to occupy my senses. And here comes Jan with an hour video of a computer I loved very much (to a fault). Thanks, Jan!

[@JanBeta]

Haha, always glad to help. ;)

[@falksweden]

I usually use 12% peroxide when retrobrighting, wrap it in food wrap and put it in the oven at 50 degrees (with "massage" every hour) for about 3-4 hours. Works great, and no hassle with uv light. I believe it's the heat that makes the process going and not the uv, since the wrap will block those wavelengths anyway. :) Good job with this 600! Another Amiga saved for the future!

[@Starchface]

I remember someone (Neil RMC, I think) doing retro-brighting experiments some time ago, and he found the same thing. It was the heat that accelerated the process. The UV had little effect as far as he could see.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, heat is the more important part in my experience, too. UV speeds up the process, too, it seems. I've seen people using UV led strips (that don't get warm that much) with great success so it must play a part, too.

[@olik136]

I am also using the 12% "creme" stuff- but I have to say I just put the items in a transparent trash bag and put it into the sun- I am also in Germany and the last time I brightened my keyboard it was only about 10-13°C and it worked absolutely fine and only took about 3-4 hours. Could the wrap actually be the difference? the trash bags seem to be much thinner maybe they let more UV through?

[@Danglebarry62]

What about bagging the parts in a sealed bag covered in peroxide, and running them in a heated ultrasonic cleaner for constant agitation?

[@GadgetUK164]

Great stuff Jan =D Always nice to see Commodores!!! Regards retro brite, I believe the key is getting enough natural light onto it to stop it re-yellowing. Things I've put into boxes / dark room etc have re-yellowed very quickly. One A500 after being put into a box, 18 months later had completely gone back as it was - I was horrified. However, my 1200 having been out on a table for the last 8 years hasn't yellowed much at all and still looks great.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, that may be the key indeed. I had similar experience with my A1200. Stored it in a box for a while and the yellowing returned. It didn't get as worse as it was pre-retrobrighting though. Some strange processes involved in the yellowing for sure! :D

[@bwack]

Awesome video again, Jan Beta ! It was nice to see the installation process again. I no longer remember how to do it.

[@retronexusnet]

Einfach der beste Retro Channel. Danke!!!

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

Hello my friend! I was in Bavaria last June 2019 on a tour of Munich and Obersalzberg and the Eagles nest. Such beautiful scenery!

[@JanBeta]

Yes, Bavaria sure is beautiful. I live in the north, close to the sea. :)

[@perhansson6718]

56:50 As you can see the reverse-retrobright of the mouse turned out really great!

[@JanBeta]

Definitely! :D

[@davepauljones]

Nice job Jan, I've recently rescued an A500 Plus, replacement case which I retrobighted & also boiled the keycaps in peroxide fluid, that went wrong, keys warped & bleeched the gray keys white, had to purchase a replacement keyboard, which I repaired a couple of membrane tracks with guitar shield carbon in water paint & I put the keycaps into a clear sealable food bag, which I filled with 6% peroxide fluid, then placed that in a large source pan of water to act as a jacket between the source pan & the food bag, place pan on smallest ring / hob on minimum heat setting, you should just be able to pop you finger in the water for a few seconds without any problem, after about 2 hours, rinse in warm water, dry & voila you have new keys with no signs of yellow.

[@mikekelly9129]

It's always a pleasure to watch your videos buddy, you go above and beyond, especially with the cleaning. Sorry to hear you lost your job due to coronavirus 😞

[@larsenmats]

Thanks for the video. When I first ordered an IDE to SD card adapter for one of my A600s I also had the problem with the HD activity light constantly on. Turned out this is a common issue with these IDE to SD adapters. What I did in the end was to order another IDE to SD adapter which had the IDE light fix already applied to it. And then the IDE light works as intended. I think it was possible to mod the one I already had, but I found it too much hassle.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, there is various mods for that problem out there. I think I'm going to look into that in a future video. :)

[@newkfromrotterdam]

@@JanBeta would love to see a quick video about that mod, i also have a generic ide-to-sd adapter like the one here that i would love to use now that i finally found the needed laptop-ide cable edit: oh i see you did make a video on that, thanx!!

[@epromenator]

Hey! Another great vid! I love Amiga! Love to see your passion about retro computing! #itsmorefuntocompute keep it going!

[@JanBeta]

Thank you! :)

[@Ironlord2015]

Great video Jan, the A600 looks beautiful, and day one mint out of the box like you said there!! Your passion and enthusiasm pays off for sure! I have an A600 with a CF card myself, that I purchased from ebay a couple of years ago, and even though lots of Amiga fans dislike it, I think it's a great compact machine, and ideal for playing some of the classics on, and it takes up less room on a desk than certain other machines :-D Obviously it's not a 1200, but I have one of those too :-D Sorry to hear you lost your job, but at least you'll have more time to do the things you love, like making videos about retro machines ;) Keep up the great work :)

[@linus1936]

There is a mod for the IDE-SD adapter that enables the HD activity light. I can't post a link, but it should be easy to find. It uses a 2N7000 mosfet.

[@perhansson6718]

Here is the guide in a text file and a picture showing the finished product: megaburken.net/~patrik/Amiga%20SD%20Adapter%20HD%20LED%20Fix/

[@linus1936]

@@perhansson6718 That's the one! Thanks.

[@patzik1910]

By coincidence I actually was doing the same thing this week on an amiga600 and installed the same sd adapter. Had the same problem with the led being lit all the time and found this 'fix' you mentioned. I did this exact fix with the 2n7000 mosfet and it didn't work for me. Still had the same problem with the led being lit all the time. Tried it on another a600 and this also did not work.

[@JanBeta]

Mh, interesting. I'm going to give it a shot and probably make another video about the process.

[@Mr_ToR]

Thnx a lot for introducing Focus 10. I love it!!!

[@SaintKaede]

Nice and clean, always love watchin' people clean up these old computers. I was just doin' the same while I was watchin' the video to my NES and SNES which needed case cleanin' bad. Completely forget that IPA 99% fumes make you loopy...don't clean and inhale kids...it's bad for you. To the LED being on constantly must be a setting or somethin' to that effect out there that can fix that or change that. Danke Jan!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! Yes, those fumes can give you quite a good high... :D

[@iNimbleSloth]

Nice one Jan, I've been following the restoration on Twitter.

[@PaulinesPastimes]

Neat little computer and great result. Looks as good as new. Cheers

[@jmboyd78]

I got a kick out of the grow light switch starting the music :)

[@JanBeta]

Ha! Glad somebody noticed that editing stunt. ;)

[@Lee_Adamson_OCF]

I'd like to have an Amiga again.... I used to have a really really ratty 2000 with a video toaster (literally found it by the road in the rain), but it worked ok after I replaced the floppy drive. But I had to get rid of it (along with most of my other old computer stuff) when my ex and I split up 15 years ago. Still rebuilding my collection lol. The Amigas are so expensive now though, even 500s. X_x What I really want is a 3000UX, but I 'spect if one ever appears on ebay it will go for astronomical money lol. Maybe I ought to just get that new Checkmate case and put a raspberry pi in it, and pretend...... >_>

[@SHGRetro]

I do my retro Bright the other way around Jan, Cream watered down slightly for the keys and liquid for the case of 5%. We all have our own ways :) Good video bud! If you get stuck with little plastic bits, give us a shout and I will 3D print them out!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! I did the watered down cream method a couple of times, too, but I found that I was more likely to get streaking on the darker keycaps. :)

[@vittekantilles4178]

As for keys, especially the grey ones, I always just put them into a transparent glass and fill it with 30% peroxide and toss it into the sun. You have to use a mesh or something in there to keep them under or they will float to the top. Stirr occasionaly. Never had any streaking/mosaicing this way, unlike all the other ways I tried it.

[@brezel53]

You're right, otherwise there's a reaction with oxygen...

[@JanBeta]

Oh, sounds good. It was quite a rainy day when I did the retrobrighting. Even in Summer it seems I don't get much sun here (at least not when I need it for something serious!). ;)

[@naderhumood]

Nice work....jan....thanks very much

[@ConsolesRetro]

Bon boulot avec ce brave amiga!

[@leemackenzie549]

Love the 600 great little machine I have a Furia EC020 accelerator with 9.5 meg fast ram with switch able FPU, also have extra 1meg chip in the trapdoor, all finished off with a 4gb CF card with WB 3.1 installed. Next part of the project id whd load and an original internal floppy instead of the gotek if i can find one. Love your vids always happy when new ones are posted

[@briangoldberg4439]

Man, that QWERTZ keyboard. I could never get used to that!

[@briangoldberg4439]

Also, I think the retrobright thing is about cigarette smoke. Smoke messed up the plastic and it breaks down. That could account for differences in the longevity of the treatment.

[@chriswareham]

My Atari ST has a QWERTZ keyboard - unfortunately my brother sold the one we "shared" ownership of as kids, and when I bought a replacement in the early days of eBay I didn't notice it had a German TOS and keyboard until it arrived. I adapted to the new layout very easily though.

[@stephenbruce8320]

I love the the A600 it takes up very little space. The biggest frustration I encountered with the A600 is the short cable for the LED's. Better to make the cables longer or just buy a new LED Board with longer cables which is what I did but I own 3 A600's. While I have every Classic Amiga Model except the A3000 none of which are Towers its the small size of the A600 that makes it so attractive and it sits nicely in the corner of my L Shaped Desk. I also have a Vampire in that A600 so its the one Amiga I use the most. I am not into games like other Amiga Enthusiasts but a couple weeks back my Grand Children were enjoying playing the games. Unfortunately the 5 Amiga's I have and use on my desk all share the same monitor and with the big box Amigas they share the same Keyboard, Mouse and Monitor through the use of a KVM Switch except the A500+ which does not play well with the mouse for some odd reason but I suspect the KVM Switch is just being picky so I will have to change that out but the mouse adapter I have which converts the 9 pin to PS2 does work it just does not play well with the KVM Switch for some reason so that A500+ in a Checkmate Case has its own dedicated mouse as does the A600 and A1200 on the desk and that A1200 is going into a Checkmate Case sometime towards the end of the year when the case arrives.

[@Beaps73]

If Jürgen Klopp was into Amiga and retro computers, this is it hehe. Great vid as always and keep up the awesome work 👏

[@darrenporter1850]

With less moaning.

[@TzOk]

My colleague recently gave me an A600. It had an intact factory seal, and didn't have the top shield. This matches your theory, that they sold them without the top shield. I decided to leave mine without retrobrighting, as it is uniformly and very slightly yellowed. I thoroughly cleaned the case, recapped the motherboard, and repaired the PSU wiring, as the -12V wire was broken (Amiga was working, but the audio it produced was horrible). I also added a switchable KS (1.3/3.1) and a 4GB CF card in the IDE-44 adapter. To make it usable with a CF, it desperately needs more RAM, so I put 1MB of CHIP RAM + RTC card in the expansion slot, and added 4MB of FAST RAM in a form of CPU snap-on board. I've created a single PFS/3 partition on a CF card and installed Classic Workbench x86 (WB 3.1 based) with WHDload. As the FDD was dead, I've also installed an internal Gotek drive. The ROM switcher and FAST RAM snap-on card I used were Open Hardware projects of SukkoPera (@OpenRetroWorks).

[@JanBeta]

Nice! I have some of the SukkoPera hardware on my to-do list, too. Excellent stuff. :)

[@J0ermungand]

Jan Beta brand merch idea: T-Shirts with "BASICally" written on them... "BASIC" in the C64 BASIC font and "ally" in some italic font below it... on a C64 blue shirt with the arms, neck and waist opening colored in the usual border color. Something along those lines...

[@JanBeta]

BASICally a good idea. ;)

[@taba1950]

Maybe the spot on the keys is because of whatever they used to make the mark stayed on the surface and stopped the peroxide from penetrating to the plastic

[@RobA500]

Nicely done Jan, as always.👍

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Rob! :D

[@zxkim8136]

Nice vid Jan lovely retrobriting job mate 🤗 Kim🤗

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Kim! Yes, turned out nicely. :)

[@chriswareham]

Great video, but I've been avoiding watching it until now as I knew it would remind me of my own 600 that's currently sitting in a state of disassembly on my workbench. I've never repaired anything with surface mount components before, and the idea of trying to replace the capacitors is quite daunting when I've only worked on through hole stuff before. I really should get my act together though!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! Hope you manage to successfully recap your A600. If you take some precautions and are careful, it's not all that difficult (and if you lift a trace because it was already corroded, you can always patch it up with a little wire or a solder bridge).

[@chriswareham]

@@JanBeta Thanks for the encouragement Jan! I have an old PC video card that I'm going to use as a test for my surface mount soldering skills - if that goes well then I'll tackle the A600. I've got an SD card replacement for the hard drive, combined RAM / RTC board and a VGA video adapter to install so this should be a great machine once I get it fixed :-)

[@danielson9579]

My first Amiga was a second hand 600 as I didn't quite have the money for an A1200 at the time and I don't know why but I was quite attracted to that little thing I converted a colour amstrad cpc 464 monitor to work with it the picture was amazing 🙂

[@JanBeta]

Oh, nice! Those CPC monitors were pretty good!

[@danielson9579]

@@JanBeta you can get instructions of aminet or just buy a cable nower days 🙂

[@hi_tech_reptiles]

I plan to retro bright a Sega Saturn soon (Japanese) and if it works with one I have one or two more on the way that could use it. The marbling issues people have had seem to be from using the cream instead of liquid. I think I even have a UV light... :)

[@timpsensky5181]

I've had mixed results with the white cream peroxide. Never had a problem with the clear liquid and that is all I use now.

[@cbullar4205]

10 to 20k resistor on line 39 of the IDE ribbon should sort out the problem of the HDD light being all ways on

[@obelisk9999]

I'm a new subscriber, love watching your videos.. Please keep it up!! Your channel will grow exponentially I reckon

[@JanBeta]

Oh, thank you! :)

[@MechaFenris]

You can never go wrong with Turrican 2. :)

[@JanBeta]

Very true! :D

[@RetroLarz]

from my experience iam splitting the white and beige keys for retrobrighting , so the beige ones dont get so bright anymore, give it a try next time, its always learning by doing 👍

[@JanBeta]

Ah, good idea. Thanks!

[@winstonsmith478]

I really look forward to an Amiga reproduction using the same cheap SoC motherboard used in THEC64 full sized C64 clone with keyboard. They should do one in the A600 form factor to avoid the keypad to save money and reduce case size. It might be done for very close to the same price as THEC64 - US$120 - although the much more complex shape of the sexy A600 case might increase that.

[@JanBeta]

You can build something using a Raspberry Pi and Amibian together with a Keyrah keyboard adapter. I think an all-in-one solution is not happening anytime soon because of the weird copyright situation with the Amiga stuff.

[@Rv-Tech]

You dont need to remove all the keys, 1 by 1, for the retrobright ! But you should open and washe everything, the keyboard too (not the floppy 😅). I did this for mine, and it's still working fine. (washed/ipa+recaped+retrobright) Aluminium Polymere are best for recap, i also ordered some replacement clips for my A600 (from usa, waiting already a few weeks...) Desoldering with heatgun 858D (protecting with thermal tape all around), et soldering with solder past and fine tip soldering tool (T12-965) Good video 👍🏻

[@larsenmats]

Leaving the keys on the keyboard plate is not smart at all when retro brighting. The springs under the keys will rust like crazy from the peroxide. There are some A600 keyboards (the ones with the blue membrane) which does not have springs. Those are fine to do this with. In fact, my A1200 I bought from ebay about 5 years ago had been retro brighted by the seller. After a few years I took the keys off and all the springs was rusted to hell. Seller had retro brighted the keys without taking them off. Probably to save time. Not smart at all.

[@Rv-Tech]

@@larsenmats I did fast drying the keyboard with a heatgun, don't worry for me. 😁

[@JanBeta]

Removing the keys was mostly for thoroughly cleaning them. Retrobrighting would work fine if you just removed the electronics, I agree. I still like to do it this way. :)

[@flemmingvestergaard8526]

Thank you for the tips in the video regarding the broken hinges in A600 cases. I have 2 cases with broken hinges, which I hope to repair when I receive the hinges from the Birt website. BTW what is the name of the white 'sponge' tool you use the remove black marks on the case? It seems to do the job pretty nice.

[@stevenoldham1471]

Hi Jan I've recently got the 600 but unable to play as it's coming up with DFO??? And DFONDOS on the workbench screen was hoping you might be able to have some tips thanks!

[@TheBookaroo]

Hi, thanks for the videos, and for your switch, you could put another nut on the inside so that it does not protrude as much...

[@JanBeta]

That is a great idea! Didn't think of that. Thanks!

[@BenRattigan]

Great video, wish the coloured keys on Amstrad 464 would retro bright, tried few times with no result.

[@basvanharen2904]

Commodore: Check Amiga: Check Restoration: Check Jan Beta: Check ok.. thats a thumbs up!

[@JanBeta]

Lol, thank you! :D

[@painkillergko]

Hi Jan :). On my A500 a few keys (alt, amiga and shift on the left side) do not work. People are telling me to replace the membrane. What do you think about it? :)

[@hollgo626]

For OS installation I use WinUAE and let it create HDF Files. You can quickly write them via an image writer on your sd or cf card in no time.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, did that for my A1200, too. I kind of wanted to try it the old-school way this time. :)

[@Twizzle1200]

Hi Jan! Great Channel, I really like your videos! I have one question: Which soldering station do you use and which do you recommend for beginners? Thanks for your advise!

[@RetroLarz]

Great job like always 🤪👍

[@JanBeta]

Thanks!

[@xnonsuchx]

Not sure if it was just a US/NTSC thing, but the last several months before Commodore went bankrupt, US dealers were advised to open up and test all A600s and A1200s before selling them because they had a rather high out of the box defect rate.

[@JanBeta]

Interesting! I never heard of anything like that happening in Germany but it might very well be. Production quality on some Commodore stuff was definitely not very good in the last couple of years of the company (like capacitors soldered in backwards and stuff like that).

[@tommyovesen]

Great video! You beat me to it, I have an A600 video coming out soon :)

[@JanBeta]

Oh, I think there is always room for more A600 videos on KZbin! :D

[@spokehedz]

Those 'little discolored spots' were probably marker, but I have seen some people put little dots of 'glue' or something on special keys. I'm not sure why, I just have seen it too often for it to not be at least something...

[@JanBeta]

Maybe they put glue to have some kind of haptic indication of where the keys are? Like the f and j keys on most keyboards have little indentations.

[@attilaracz2034]

Fantastic video. Thx. Amiga still rulez!!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! Yes, Amiga is still alive and kicking today. ;)

[@lukebenton8494]

great guide thank you

[@zer0b0t]

Some plastic cleaners have uv filter, may help against yellowing, can buy from automotive stores

[@JanBeta]

Yes, I definitely have to try that sometime.

[@KasperHoltze]

Hi Jan, when cleaning the keyboard by spraying with IPA and brushing with a toothbrush, would that basically not just loosen the dirt and move it a bit around? I see that you're trying to remove the dirt with a cloud, but I would maybe spray (a lot) of distilled water on it afterwards, to remove the dirt. Is that a bad idea? As in, using the IPA for loosening the dirt, and distilled water for washing it away... That shouldn't leave any residues either :-)

[@JanBeta]

If there's a lot of dirt, I usually try to rinse it with water and then with alcohol (to replace the water and to make it dry more quickly). The brushing is enough for some light dirt and for removing the flux in my experience.

[@janchristensen9858]

Yesss new video. Good job - if you need question for electronic repair then ask me. You can find me on messenger.

[@JanBeta]

Thank you Jan! :D

[@papafrank808]

I once had an AMIGA 600 and tested it against a Pentium MMX with 200 MHz. When the Amiga was processing an image, it was just on the 2nd line, when my Pentium MMX was already finished editing the image. The result was so staggering that I only gave the AMIGA 600 away.

[@JanBeta]

Yeah, those PCs had a lot more processing power. But then again, the stock Amiga 600 is based around a CPU from 1979. ;)

[@airspeedmph]

Those keys in the peroxide solution, they only need to be shaken, not stirred. And don't forget to state your name: Beta, Jan Beta.

[@barnabas5688]

A few years ago I bought a little riser attachment for the IDE port on the A600 and 1200 which fixes the issue with the LED being permanently on. I think I had it off someone on Amibay, I'll see if I can find a link...

[@barnabas5688]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KA-47-Single-port-IDE-adapter-for-SD2IDE-converter-for-Amiga-600-Amiga-1200/164085658212?hash=item2634447264:g:iH0AAOSwTpheSpFp Here is something similar. It solves the LED issue and also prevents the card reader from flapping around inside the case :o)

[@JanBeta]

Yes, I've seen those. Maybe I'll get one sometime. I found some workarounds for the LED problem, too.

[@Gunstarrhero1]

you chose the wrong drive identifier for the hard drive, when you selected to identify the hdd, you should have selected the second identifier in the list. ST9190AG was the drive identifier you wanted to select to receive the full partition amount. so instead of 240mb, you would have received 2GB. you might want to reinstall workbench.

[@JanBeta]

Oh, I chose that one. The SD card is only 256MB so I think everything is good.

[@rossdag4232]

good video jan hows my eprom order coming along ross .

[@adilkhojah]

nice work man 100/100

[@WesleyNixon]

Sorry to hear about you losing your job. You're one of my favorite channels and I always look forward to new videos, so I decided to put my money where my mouth is, and become a Patreon supporter. Keep the videos coming! #janbetwashere ;)

[@JanBeta]

Thank you so much! :D

[@DJlegionuk]

I am trying to install a turbo hc533 accelerator card into a rev 5 Amiga 500 and it needs KS 3.14, but as it's a rev 5 board I also need a adaptor for the eprom KS and trying to get them to fit together is driving me crazy. I don't want to mod the socket on the A500 so I am having to find ways to lift up the turbo card or lower the eprom adaptor. After some time I managed to get them both into the case and it worked only to find the keyboard and case would not go back in due to clearance. Now I have designed my own re-locator board to move the turbo card back and I hope this is the last part of the puzzle. If anyone has a Kipper2k dual rom board for sale or how I can buy one I would love you for ever. After posting on amibay for the past few weeks and emailing I had no response so perhaps he sold out. The low profile dual rom would solve all my problems if I can find one in the UK.

[@nanischrunz6853]

Super Video! Which cream exactly for rethro brighting do you use, cant see percentage of, thank you very much, need it for an amiga 500,

[@JanBeta]

I use 12% cream (more info in the video description, too).

[@nanischrunz6853]

Thank you!

[@andrewlittleboy8532]

I think you can actually die from a more severe reaction from peroxide as hair colours always warn people to do regular skin tests before applying!

[@OzRetrocomp]

Nice to see an A600 getting some love! Just wondering, where did you buy the SD to IDE adapter from? Is it just a generic eBay-type one, or is there somewhere in particular you'd suggest?

[@JanBeta]

Yes, just found it on eBay.

[@PittyGT]

Hi Jan, great video like ever. 😎👌👍😁 Was there no reason to change/soldering new capacitors? I heard some guys say that is a must to change it always after a maximum of 20-30 years of time, espacially on amigas. Is it possible that commodore uses differnt capacitors over the time, that not broken over the time or dont have fluid ones? Thanks and greetings from Gütersloh, André

[@JanBeta]

I replaced the capacitors in a separate video (linked in the description) before. I recommend always doing that on equipment from the early-mid nineties that uses SMD capacitors. In my experience, most of those are leaking. They had some production problems in those days.

[@PittyGT]

@@JanBeta OK, thanks and sorry. I dont see the link before in the discrption. 😂😉

[@consolecoast7897]

Great video mate

[@JanBeta]

Thanks!

[@angrydove4067]

You don't still use that colander for pasta, do you?

[@sviru007]

How does it look after 2 years? Did it reyellow? Thanks!

[@JanBeta]

It still looks pristine fortunately! I guess I got lucky with this one. But as I mentioned, your mileage may vary with retrobrighting. Some things turn yellow again rather quickly, sometimes they take a long time. The process is not stopped by the treatment but reversed to some extend, at least for a while.

[@waxyeeratty7227]

I have an Amiga 600 too! but my Amiga 600 keyboard membrane at the end plug in it's broken and the keyboard no longer work and internal floppy drive on the reading head won't read floppy disk anymore... Do u think u can fix my Amiga 600 problem?.... 🤔

[@JanBeta]

I don’t do contract work for various reasons (mostly because I lack proper insurance and expertise for that kind of work) but try to show how things are done in my videos. Sorry!

[@waxyeeratty7227]

@@JanBeta That's okay if u can't fix my Amiga 600 that have two problems and do u know where can I bring my Amiga 600 to get it fix?....🤔

[@MrPcatt]

Does the A600 have any disadvantage in therms of compatibility over A500 ?

[@JanBeta]

A few games don’t work with the slightly different memory (1MB chip memory vs 512K chip+512K fast on the A500) and a couple don’t like the newer Kickstart ROMs (A600 shipped with 2.05 ROM originally). If you need 100% compatibility with older software go with an A500.

[@e5frog]

If you thread the springs on a piece of cable/rope/string you'll avoid entaglement.

[@JanBeta]

That makes sense! Thanks for the tip! :)

[@retronexusnet]

Ich finde deinen Channel einfach super

[@JanBeta]

Vielen Dank! :D

[@johandenhertog6878]

With BetterWB 4.3 you can have a limit of 8GB. Have all my AMIGA’s 3.1.4 ROM chips and have 32GB CF. For me 32GB is more than enough.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, I think some of the new WB variants use the PFS file system which allows for larger partitions even with older Kickstart versions. I have yet to try that stuff.

[@Mr_ToR]

Did you check the drive speed?

[@painkillergko]

On springs just try it ATE breake fluid:)

[@milk-it]

Tolles Video wie immer :-).

[@JanBeta]

Vielen Dank! :D

[@mikipank]

Keyboard of that A1200 need retrobrighting also, do you think it?

[@JanBeta]

I retrobrighted it a couple of years ago, it re-yellowed a bit. But it was much worse. I'm waiting for the new Kickstarter/Indiegogo keycaps to be produced actually.

[@mikipank]

@@JanBeta Is the transparent body of a computer new and the work of a kickstarter, too? I like your work and just keep it up. Greetings from a loyal viewer from Serbia!

[@arthurcollector4002]

in all of my retrobrights, yelowish returned but much worse than before, never had a different result. People have to stop showing retrobright like a miraculous thing

[@JanBeta]

Mh, my experience is quite different (as I said in the video). The things I treated with retrobrighting definitely do re-yellow over time but I've had nothing that got worse than it was before treating it.

[@blackcountryme]

With the magic eraser, cut a small piece off with some scissors, and use that, the whole thing is a bit unweildy

[@JanBeta]

Makes sense! I didn't think of that! :)

[@chrisrobson8540]

Always jealous when i see a TAC2 joystick...... the very best in my opinion Also been bugging me for months what game the intro tune is from been wracking my old brain but I'm giving up and asking lol

[@JanBeta]

Yes, I love the TAC-2 so much! The tune is from the C64 version of Flip and Flop. :)

[@chrisrobson8540]

@@JanBeta funny how familiar it is to me but dont ever remember playing the game lol

[@KolliRail]

Very relaxing video! :-)

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! That was the intention. ;)

[@bundesautobahn7]

Where in Germany may I ask? No address necessary, a state/Bundesland will do if you want to answer. The Backsteinhäuser in the backdrop remind me of Hamburg, where I lived for 15 years.

[@JanBeta]

I live in Kiel, so pretty close architecture-wise. ;)

[@xsm5525]

I've heard retrobright'ing is a bad idea, that's the new rumours I'm hearing, I'm looking for alternatives.

[@JanBeta]

If you do it carefully, retrobrighting works well, even after a couple of years. The yellowing is going to return slightly but so far everything I tried looked better than before. At least for bright plastic parts. Dark plastics are a whole different story. In the end, I think it's a matter of taste.

[@LAGUNAMAN1972]

is the y and z key in the wrong place

[@eduardocantador6146]

Muy buen vídeo saludos desde España

[@JanBeta]

Graçias! (That's about all the Spanish I know, sorry) ;)

[@ms-ex8em]

Hello can you help do u know about the dragon 32?? I need a programmers help I typed in write on but it won’t work please help thanks.

[@JanBeta]

No experience with the Dragon whatsoever. Sorry!

[@andreasmartin9296]

Grade hochgeladen und schon 113 Aufrufe. Die Amiga-Gemeinde lebt!

[@Laskarides]

Ist mir auch sofort ins Auge gefallen! Supi!

[@JanBeta]

Ja, wer hätte das gedacht nach all den Jahren? Ich find's jedenfalls großartig! :)

[@chrisshaw451]

NO Retrobrighting, the yellow will return and it makes the plastic brittle.

[@JanBeta]

As I explained in the video, the yellowing will return but not as bad as it was. Also in my experience, if you don't use excessive amounts of UV for retrobrighting, it doesn't make the plastic more brittle at all.

[@chrisshaw451]

@@JanBeta That's fair comment but it isd still not for my cases etc.

[@chrisshaw451]

@@JanBeta OK, its your case, hope you do not come to regret all the Retr0brighting. Personally I think just a standard clean will suffice otherwise you kill the character and history of the case.

[@t.l.6353]

Hi, was für eine Flüssigkeit nimmst du für die Tasten?

[@JanBeta]

Du meinst zum Bleichen? Das ist 12%ige Wasserstoff-Peroxid Lösung aus dem Frisörbedarf (gibt’s bei Amazon z.B.).

[@t.l.6353]

@@JanBeta ja genau, Danke. Ist es eigentlich auch möglich die Tasten mit dem cremigen Wasserstoffperloxid zu behandeln?

[@JanBeta]

Geht auch, mache ich aber inzwischen nicht mehr. Bei der Creme ist nach meiner Erfahrung das Risiko größer, ungleichmäßige Ergebnisse zu bekommen. Kleinere Teile wie Tasten versenke ich deshalb zur Sicherheit inzwischen meistens in der flüssigen Lösung.

[@t.l.6353]

@@JanBeta könnte ich auch zb. Bei genügend Flüssigkeit die Oberschale sagen wir mal A1200 eintauchen? Das Ergebnis müsste dann theoretisch gleichmäßiger als bei Creme sein oder ?

[@JanBeta]

Ja, das geht auch und gibt meistens ein besseres Ergebnis. Brauchst nur viel Flüssigkeit (kann auch mit Wasser verdünnt werden und braucht dann etwas länger) und einen entsprechenden Behälter. :)

[@janchristensen9858]

for the HDD status light indicator, just follow this link here to make a permanent fix for also other SD devices www.tsb.space/knowledge-base/hdd-led-always-bright-using-some-sd-cf-adapters/

[@dozern]

You didn't film this, but did you remember to set the maxtransfer of the SD-card to something that actually works? You may very well get problems later on if you don't do this. Source: eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=45491

[@hollgo626]

500s reyellow much faster than 600s, 1200s or 4000s,but that seems to have something to do with the year of production. My 1991 500 still looks gerat, while my 1988 500 is pretty yellow like a lemon...

[@necronom]

I retrobrighted my 1987 A500 in 2011 (with liquid peroxide/oxy/sun) and it still looks great. The A1200 I did at the same time with cream (I'd ran out of liquid) looks yellow again. Different batches and different factories could all have used slightly different mixes.

[@barnabas5688]

Other way around for me - my A500+ from late 1991 is dark yellow and I have an older A500 with 1987 date codes on the chips which hasn't yelllowed at all - keyboard or case!

[@JanBeta]

Yes, I think it definitely depends on the plastic mix they used across different factories/years etc. There are some C64 keyboards that yellow in kind of a checkerboard pattern, they must have used different plastics on the same keyboard for those. My 1987 A500 was very yellow, as was my 1993(?) A1200.

[@JB-mk4ry]

That poor green disk sitting next to the big magnet in that monitor speaker... :/ Hopefully it's a prop and I'm being bamboozled...

[@JanBeta]

It's a broken-beyond-repair disk. Just decoration, no worries. :) The effect of speakers on disks is largely overrated, too. You would have to produce a very high energy magnetic field to damage disks (which normal speakers don't do).