An Easy Way to Stop Carbon Fabric Fraying and Distorting

[@DanFrederiksen]

Interesting. Does it hamper infusion or reduce ultimate strength?

[@Gary-1180]

No, not at all. I've been doing this for years

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Dan, this is a great question and maybe something we could have discussed a bit in the video. The short answer is "no", you won't see any measurable reduction in mechanical properties of the laminate after using FusionFix EP either as a stabiliser, or as a spray adhesive within the laminate. We've also not seen it affect the flow or penetration of the resin when infusing. Although, I should point out that there probably would come a point where the fabric was so saturated with adhesive as to start to have some effect! The longer answer as to why this is the case is due to the adhesive being epoxy based. Although it dries to the touch after 10-20 mins, it hasn't actually cured or cross-linked at this point. It just leaves a few grams of uncured epoxy as a trace on the fabric. When the part is infused, the uncured resin will just become a fractional part of the resin matrix and cross link with the hardener, together with the rest of the resin. The amount of extra resin side is barely even a rounding error. This has been verified by using the FusionFix EP between plies in the laminate and then testing the cured laminate using a rigorous 3-point bend test, looking for any reduction in interlaminar shear. The results showed no difference in mechanical performance between laminates that had used FusionFix EP and those that hadn't. For context, several studies have been done in the past on the effect of rubber-based spray adhesives (which most are) which did show measurable reduction in interlaminar shear strength of cured laminates, particularly epoxy-based ones which - having no solvent - are unable to dissolve and disperse rubber compounds.

[@garrison9078]

​@@easycompositestv, Hi, kindly advise whether wrapping 10 mm square ( PULTRUDED) carbon 1 metre tube with glass fibre and epoxy will strengthen the said carbon tube. I have to use the tube as a boom for my RC aircraft. Thanks and Regards

[@easycompositestv]

@@garrison9078 Yes adding more material will certainly increase the strength but at a cost of more weight. Carbon fibres would a better option than glass as you will need to add less material for the same gain in strength which will be critical for a weight sensitive application. Another option might be to bond another tube, either slightly smaller or larger into or over the existing one. This may result in a slightly neater result.

[@garrison9078]

@@easycompositestv thanks a lot for your help

[@welshdeadpool]

I love these tips and they have helped me immensely on my self taught journey using carbon. After using the trick to stabilise weave it gave absolutely night and day finish effects on the weave direction on my parts and now it is a go to step every time for me

[@easycompositestv]

Glad to hear it proved helpful to you.

[@JaenEngineering]

Quick question, and this is probably pretty obvious, but could you just use this spray along an edge that needs to be cut in order to prevent fraying, but leave the rest of the fabric as is to keep it drapeable?

[@UKBUILT]

I think that's the best method 👍 it all depend on the shape of the part.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, you could do this. @PeakTorque commented that you can also do this with a tape, like masking tape, which is totally true and can work well if you want the main body of the cloth to stay as drapeable as possible, whilst just making it that bit easier to handle. I've not experimented with just using the FusionFix around the edge but I can see it working as well, or probably better than tape, because it will still allow the fabric to 'trapeze' slightly, which will probably avoid the tugs that you can sometimes get if you do choose to tape the edges. You get the most advantage from a stabilising spray (or a stabilised fabric) when you want the whole piece of fabric to be easier to handle and/or resist distortion, such as when you're working with quite flat surfaces, or when you want to have a sharp cut line in the visible area of the part; the latter of these being almost impossible any other way, outside of a prepreg.

[@ooslum]

I was going to ask/say the same but thought it may be possible to go further. By masking with say a grid brown paper, a grid of stable and more flexible cloth could improve the visual effects as well as strength on a one piece lay-up.

[@easycompositestv]

@@ooslum The Spray tack doesn't improve the overall strength of the part and is intended to have minimal impact on the visual nature of the cloth, besides helping to keep all of the tows aligned and in position.

[@PeakTorque]

I lay masking tape on the cut edge before cutting to prevent fraying. One the part is in the mould, this taped edge is then cut off, so the drape-ability is not affected.

[@easycompositestv]

This is another valid technique for sure. One main difference though being that masking tape won’t allow you to have sharp cut lines in the fabric (as it’s common to do with prepregs) and the fabric can’t be handled as robustly as it can if it’s stabilised, but it does allow for better drapeability so, as usual in composites, it’s choosing the right techniques for the challenges of each project 👍.

[@PeakTorque]

@@easycompositestv Just about to email you guys about another project :) And will definitely be using this spray technique!

[@kizzjd9578]

Masking tape doesnt work when your carbon cut is the finished product. Ive had good success using 3m 71 or 77

[@farhad.molavi]

How remove tape without damaging the fiber? When I use any tipe of tape and cut while remove tape the fiber be damage.

[@easycompositestv]

@@farhad.molavi That can be the difficulty with using tape and why the fusion fix method is so useful.

[@YSekiai]

I place carbon fiber between transparent polyester sheets before cutting it. This allows for a clean cut without fraying. Additionally, if I apply resin to the fiber inside the polyester sheets before cutting, I can attach the fiber to the mold like a sticker.✂

[@WireWeHere]

Hairspray was my first helpful thought when the frustration of fraying began to cause problems. Tried 3M 77 adhesive a few years later. Both trapped a little air we had to be careful to check if it was removed by pulling a vacuum twice with an edge inspection in between.

[@paulblassier956]

Hello, thank you for this video. Finally a solution for that! Can you make a video that compares the resistance of a wet carbon and dry carbon sample?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Paul, if I understand your video suggestion correctly then you should be in luck fairly soon; we plan on making a resin infusion vs prepreg video in the near future. Slight *spoiler alert* - most of the differences are in handling, practicality and economics. Even when measured very accurately and rigorously, there's very little to separate resin infused parts (wet carbon) from prepreg (dry carbon) in terms of their mechanical performance when they're both done right.

[@therealchayd]

Just the stuff! Unravelling was one thing that really annoyed me when working with CF and awkward shapes.

[@easycompositestv]

You're certainly not alone!

[@welshdeadpool]

Loving the tips given out here, I use these as a reference point for my projects. Would love a vid on timings for things such as easy lease and intricate/complex small parts from a mould. Keep the videos coming especially with infusion and wet lay

[@AwestrikeFearofGods]

Convenient...but it seems like this is deliberate contamination. Is there any test data to show this film doesn't reduce the penetration and adhesion of the intended epoxy resin?

[@BIKE-PLUS]

👍

[@avrahamkrichevsky4831]

I had the same question. But i guess it shouldn't be a big issue because mass of the spray is insignificant in comparison to the mass of the resin. The spray is epoxy too, so it should embed itself neatly in the matrix epoxy resin.

[@AwestrikeFearofGods]

@@avrahamkrichevsky4831 Besides the adhesion/strength/compatibility of this epoxy being taken for granted, my concern is that a light coat creates an insoluble barrier film, without thoroughly wicking into the fibers.

[@easycompositestv]

This is a great question and maybe something we could have discussed a bit in the video. The short answer is "no", you won't see any measurable reduction in mechanical properties of the laminate after using FusionFix EP either as a stabiliser, or as a spray adhesive within the laminate. The longer answer as to *why* this is the case is due to the adhesive being epoxy based. Although it dries to the touch after 10-20 mins, it hasn't actually cured or cross-linked at this point. It just leaves a few grams of uncured epoxy as a trace on the fabric. When the part is infused, the uncured resin will just become a fractional part of the resin matrix and cross link with the hardener, together with the rest of the resin. The amount of extra resin side is barely even a rounding error. This has been verified by using the FusionFix EP between plies in the laminate and then testing the cured laminate using a rigorous 3-point bend test, looking for any reduction in interlaminar shear. The results showed no difference in mechanical performance between laminates that had used FusionFix EP and those that hadn't. For context, several studies have been done in the past on the effect of rubber-based spray adhesives (which most are) which did show measurable reduction in interlaminar shear strength of cured laminates, particularly epoxy-based ones which - having no solvent - are unable to dissolve and disperse rubber compounds.

[@BIKE-PLUS]

@@easycompositestv Thank you for this comprehensive answer.

[@thetruthbehindplanes]

i plan to enter using composites with your company.i love composites.composites are used in the best aviation company of all time,boeing

[@N221BP]

A mix of 5% laminating epoxy and 95% denaturated alcohol, applied with a paint roller, is easy, cheap, and has the exact same result. Although it takes some time to cure.

[@matthamilton4053]

Thanks for this tip. I can’t get the product in the video locally, so going to try your suggestion

[@easycompositestv]

Correct we have covered a home made tackifier like this in one of our previous videos. The spraytack just provides a very easy, off the shelf solution that you don't need to mix up every time.

[@farhad.molavi]

Hello Epoxy with hardener or alcohol only?

[@N221BP]

@@farhad.molavi epoxy without hardener, typically doesn't cure. Can't see the merits of uncured epoxy in your tissue... Of course you add hardener!

[@easycompositestv]

@@farhad.molavi The Epoxy is mixed up with the hardener as normal then add 2 parts acetone just before the resin begins to cure.

[@drrock5356]

Thanks again for the great video, information, and product! I have a couple of questions about the FUSION FIX EP spray product: What type of epoxy is the material? I'm not familiar with single-part epoxies. Generally speaking, how does the flashed epoxy interact with 2 part laminating epoxy during wet out or infusion? How much does the sprayed epoxy reduce/block the epoxy/fiber wet-out? Will the sprayed epoxy affect surface finish if applied to the A surface plies?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi, all good questions. Answers as follows: 1) The type of epoxy is a two part epoxy, it's just that it's only the resin side in the can, not the epoxy hardener. When you spray it, it dries but it doesn't cure. In effect, you have a microscopic trace of uncured epoxy on the fabric that's free to crosslink with the resin matrix when the part is unfused. 2) It crosslinks with it, along with the rest of the cure reaction. Although in theory you've added a trace of additional resin-side, in reality, this is barely a rounding error in the ratio between resin and hardener, well within the accuracy that the resin would have been mixed to in the first place. 3) Used normally, we've seen zero impact on the infusion, fibre wetting or mechanical properties of the cured laminate due to use of FusionFix EP either as a fabric stabiliser or as a spray adhesive within the laminate. 4) No, used in the way shown in this video, it's completely invisible. We generally see the main advantage to stabilising fabrics as being for use on the visible 'A' surface ply.

[@drrock5356]

@@easycompositestv Thank you for the highly detailed explanation of your spray tack product, and for EC's continuous innovation and support!

[@alex.darmancourt]

Awesome! Finally! Have you noticed any effect on infusion resin flow with this spray tack? Also, does it affect a part surface finish quality if you were to use it on the first layer? Traditional spray tacks usually leave some residue (the binder/glue) that can reduce surface finish quality or even interlaminar bond. I believe that this would be better since it's epoxy based?

[@easycompositestv]

No from what we have seen there is little to no trace of the spray tack in the finished part , largely due to the adhesive being epoxy based. Although it dries to the touch after 10-20 mins, it hasn't actually cured or cross-linked at this point. It just leaves a few grams of uncured epoxy as a trace on the fabric. When the part is infused, the uncured resin will just become a fractional part of the resin matrix and cross link with the hardener, together with the rest of the resin essentially becoming part of the resin itself. We will have a video coming shortly on our products channel which will explain the differences between this Epoxy version and a traditional rubber based spray tack.

[@alex.darmancourt]

@@easycompositestv Thanks! Great to read that. Do you think it could be used for preforming purposes if applied in heavier quantities?

[@easycompositestv]

@@alex.darmancourt The more adhesive you add, the stiffer, less flexible and less drapeable the fabric will become. Hoewver, it is not going to be suitable for making it completely rigid such that it will hold shapes.

[@JanBinnendijk]

I have used just a mist of spray adhesive, that stays a bit tacky, but enables draping the cloth without fraying..

[@TheShaddix]

This works too! But you're missing the point of this video

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Jan, yes, that's the problem we've always found with conventional spray adhesives; they stay tacky which in our experience can make the fabric even harder to handle, not easier (sticking to your fingers when you try to position or release it!). Also, some conventional rubber based spray adhesives are better than others but we've seen them leave a visible contamination on the fabric if you're not very careful with them.

[@JanBinnendijk]

@@easycompositestv That's true. basically i only mist the edges to stop them from fraying, works for me, but that product you are using sounds like just what the doctor ordered, when i was doing Carbon or glassfiber cloth i just used what i had on hand.. as i use the spray adhesive (Contact adhesive) also for sticking metal sheet to the spoilplate of my milling machine..

[@JanBinnendijk]

@@TheShaddix No i don't, i used spray adhesive because i had that at the time, and it worked for me..

[@fb2800]

How about hair spray? Also if you use a spray adhesive you can dust on some talch to take the sickness away. Talch isn't visible when wetted out and has negligible affect on the finished parts stregth.

[@tricky2917]

Does this work on biocomposites like flax or ramie?

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, you can use it in just the same way on any composites reinforcement, including carbon/kevlar, kevlar, glass fibre and natural fibres like flax, hemp and jute.

[@pedgarage]

GAME CHANGER! This will help a lot, prepare a couple of cans for my next order ;-)

[@giamademedoit]

Thanks a lot! How does a treated CF cloth compare to a stabilized one?

[@easycompositestv]

Honestly... remarkably similar. There are a few different fabric stabilisation processes out there. Some use a 'snail trail' like web of thermoplastic, others use a more substantial veil, and still others (like our of ProFinish treatment) use an epoxy powder binder that's dispersed onto the fabric and then heat treated. Each of these types of stabilised fabric have a slightly different behaviour, I couldn't say that any one is the best, it depends on the application. What I like about stabilising 'ad hoc' using the FusionFix EP is that you can be selective where and when you do it, and how much you do it. You don't need to stock stabilised and non-stabilised fabrics, and you can apply it to any fabric (carbon kevlar/kevlar/natural fibres etc.). The disadvantage is the extra time and space to prepare some fabric, when just pulling it off a pre-stabilised roll is very convenient!

[@giamademedoit]

@easycompositestv thanks a lot! Well, one application I can think of right now that might be better than the stabilized fabric is that you can spray just the corners before cutting for example or apply different layers wherever you need it most.

[@cycliststrainingpartner8877]

Top quality vid from a top quality company 👌

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for watching!

[@avrahamkrichevsky4831]

Very informative as usual! Thank you!

[@easycompositestv]

You're welcome Avraham :) Thanks for watching.

[@TheFunfighter]

Used to do that with spray glue. Similar result, but much more messy and the sprayed side is basically unusable if dust gets on it. But still got clean af edges out of it. Good times.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes a dedicated product like this will work much better, as well as ensuring that there is compatibility between the adhesive and the resin. It also won't remain sticky as can be the case with glues.

[@leoa4c]

What if we only sprayed the edges? We could scale down the templates (leaving and edge of 2 or 3cm), spray the cloth with the templates on top of it, thus leaving the center free of resin, thus allowing it to better conform. Would that work?

[@joeparreman4859]

Nice vid! Could you do a video about how to use different metal inserts in composite parts?

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for the suggestion. We've not done a video about inserts in 'components' but we have recently done a tutorial explaining how to include metal mould bushes in a composite mould, where the bushes are laminated into the prepreg reinforcement. The process for certain metal inserts in components wouldn't need to be much different to this so that video might be worth a watch if you've not seen it already.

[@LupusMechanicus]

oh thats badass and genius being an epoxide it binds to the composite.

[@matteogardenghi2291]

yet another easycomposites win.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Matteo :)

[@matteogardenghi2291]

@ all jokes aside, you guys are consistently making composites accessible to beginners and hobbyists, incredible quality products. And great customer support. Big props to you guys, and I’m loving the new product releases. For anyone else reading this, EC are genuinely a one-stop shop, they have pretty much anything you could realistically need for a composites project.

[@easycompositestv]

That's very kind of you to say Matteo and of course it's feedback like this that we really appreciate and use as encouragement to keep making this content and helping to bring people into the world of composites that we still absolutely love being part of. We wish you all the best with your project(s).

[@kristoffer-robinlotze7273]

​@@easycompositestv I can only join the cheering. Thanks to EC and your videos I've started carbon and fibreglass hobby projects. Both laminating and compression forged carbon. So a big thank you! 😀

[@TheDeepDiveLLC]

This works with hairspray as well

[@easycompositestv]

Whilst it works in a similar way, hair spray hasn't been developed to be compatible with a resin system. It may contain other ingredients which are good for hair, but can compromise the resin itself.

[@broughxtreme]

Ha Ha. Was just about to ask the same Q. Sounds cheaper and handier to get hold of.

[@bottomofthemap696]

I've always used 3m super 77. All other composite spray I've used either show visibly or don't have the tac I need

[@keal.vietnam]

Very good method. However in my country this product is not available, can you guide an easy way and with available materials to achieve such result? Or do I have to buy this coating to keep the carbon structure from moving ?

[@easycompositestv]

We're not aware of another way of achieving exactly the same result without using an epoxy-based spray adhesive (of which, FusionFix EP is pretty much on its own). Conventional spray adhesives will leave the fabric tacky and may contaminate it visually. Non composites products like hairspray may help to achieve a somewhat similar effect but you'd need to be cautious as to what contamination they might be introducing (some hairsprays contain moisturiser, which is a real no-no!).

[@longsleevethong1457]

What’s the best/fastest way to mass produce carbon fiber parts?

[@easycompositestv]

Its impossible to say as it depends on application, volume, use of part. For larger volume processes it is likely to end up using heat curing processes such as pre-pregs and similar materials cured at least under heat to reduce the cycle time for a mould and thus increase the number of parts that can be made in a given time.

[@alexhise968]

Theres a clear flex seal and I wonder if that could do a similar job

[@MarshallRoad]

Does this not effect the structural integrity? Surely its a weak element between the fibre and the end Matrix.

[@easycompositestv]

No. In our testing, we couldn’t detect any mechanical detriment whatsoever, even with quite excessive application and testing for interlaminar shear on a 3-point bend.

[@vishnupanda7927]

Question: Does the adhesive prevent any kind of impregrnation?

[@easycompositestv]

We've not seen it affect the flow or penetration of the resin when infusing. Although, I should point out that there probably would come a point where the fabric was so saturated with adhesive as to start to have some effect!

[@jeanfrancoispoivre4438]

C'est un super produit 😊

[@easycompositestv]

Merci beaucoup Jean Francois.

[@darthsnouty]

Try a rotary cutter commonly used for fabric. Perfect cuts every time.

[@easycompositestv]

Rotary cutters can give you a sharp edge initially, however that doesn't help with stabilising the edges of the material once the cut has been made.

[@gilfernandobragadeoliveira2495]

Although it’s not an Easy Composite product, could you inform me if the 3M Super 77 could be used as a substitute for Fusion Fix EP?

[@easycompositestv]

Traditional spray tacks like this generally leave the surface of the cloth a bit tacky due to the formulation in the adhesive. The unique thing about the Fusion Fix EP is the epoxy base which can allow it to dry tack free whilst still holding the material together. For tacking into a mould then the 77 can still be used but will likely make handling even more difficult if used to try and stabilise fabric as shown in this way.

[@Erik-rp1hi]

Will the spray inhibit resin infusion technique?

[@easycompositestv]

We've not seen it affect the flow or penetration of the resin when infusing. Although, I should point out that there probably would come a point where the fabric was so saturated with adhesive it would have some effect!

[@ОлегДёготь]

Почаще выпускайте ваши поучительные видео 👍👍.

[@easycompositestv]

We would love to be able to release more videos, however the is a fine balance between this and other projects also the important job of running the business day to day.

[@keepitreal1547]

Great information, thank you.

[@easycompositestv]

Our pleasure, glad you find it interesting :)

[@keepitreal1547]

@easycompositestv Do you supply the Fusion fix EP?

[@easycompositestv]

Absolutely. There's a link in the description but here it is too. If you're in an EU country then use buy from our EU website: www.easycomposites.eu/fusionfix-ep-clear-epoxy-spray-adhesive or you're anywhere else then buy from our UK website: www.easycomposites.co.uk/fusionfix-ep-clear-epoxy-spray-adhesive

[@mer9706]

Do you invert and purge the valve after use or no?

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, exactly that but I've also never known a can to clog and must have forgotten to purge once or twice!

[@mer9706]

@@easycompositestv Great, thank you!

[@kresimirmilisa5560]

Very good to see😊

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks :)

[@edoardobandini3293]

you have to make demonstration videos on silicone molds rtv 2 various demonstrations because I find them interesting not only this video I hope you will make more videos on silicone molds

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for the suggestion and yes, it would be good to do something on RTV silicone in a future video. We do plan to feature silicone in our next video, although it's more of a small tip in a longer video, rather than a detailed video about mould making, but hopefully you'll still find it interesting.

[@stuntdrvr]

how about show us how to make our own pre-preg from scratch

[@easycompositestv]

DIY prepreg isn't really something you can do. The equipment required to process the material is pretty large and expensive and uses a very specialist resin not a standard 2 part liquid which you can buy off the shelf. This stabilisation method really is the best solution we have come up with so far to achieve a DIY material that can be cut and handled in a similar way to pre preg.

[@chiboreache]

does it compromise tensile strength of final composite part ?

[@easycompositestv]

No. In our testing, we couldn’t detect any mechanical detriment whatsoever, even with quite excessive application, and testing for interlaminar shear on a 3-point bend.

[@calico88]

Can this product minimizing from having pinholes ? It’s not available in Asia region ?

[@TheShaddix]

This has no effect on minimizing pinholes. Are you using wet layup or infusion?

[@easycompositestv]

No, this won't help with pinholes on the surface of carbon fibre parts. The only solution to pinholes is to use a process that's capable of achieving a pinhole free finish, such as resin infusion or prepreg, and to make sure that the process is executed perfectly (capable materials, perfect bagging technique, perfect cure conditions etc.). In terms of shipping to the Asia region, yes, we can ship to most countries in Asia direct from our UK warehouse. Please visit easycomposites.co.uk to place your order.

[@calico88]

@ infusion

[@sylvesterboy]

A strong hairspray is a cheap solution and can do the same. Try and see 😉

[@josephslomka8161]

3m 77 can also stabilize fabric, though it does leave the fabric tacky.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, this is one of the problems with conventional spray adhesives. They stay tacky and in so doing, they can actually make the fabric even harder to handle, not easier. Some of them can cause visual contamination too (although generally not 3M 77 if used sparingly).

[@josephslomka8161]

@@easycompositestv When Using Fusion Fix EP for stabilization of fabric are there limitations on later using it to later using it to tack fabric to a mold surface? It's listed as an epoxy product, would mold release prevent adhesion? When used as an adhesive, does it lose adhesion after the 20 minute cure time?

[@easycompositestv]

@@josephslomka8161 Not at all, you can simply apply a second application when it comes to placing it in the mould. You obviously want to be conscious that you don't over do it with the application but generally speaking there are no issues with this method. The spray will initially bond to the release applied surface whilst in it's tacky state but once cured will be included with the resin matrix and then come away with part, releasing cleanly away from the release agent. Yes once it cures off, the tackiness subsides, that's one of the things that makes this product unique.

[@w.w.2007]

love from carbonara bavaria

[@easycompositestv]

Thank you!

[@roberth1858]

Where can I buy this in the USA?

[@easycompositestv]

We can ship to the USA direct from the UK, simply order from the website. You can find the link in the description.

[@nigelsmith7366]

O you have a distributor in NZ

[@easycompositestv]

No, we don't have a distributor in New Zealand unfortunately. We can and do ship to New Zealand direct from the UK but the problem is generally products that are classed as 'dangerous goods' for transport. Because aerosols are flammable, we need the courier networks to offer a DG service to your country and, frustratingly, neither FedEx or TNT offer a DG service from the UK to NZ. Apologies for any disappointment; hopefully the situation will change in the future.

[@broughxtreme]

Be a good Kiwi and use hair spray. I was going to ask about that but the saw that a couple of guys asked any way. Another good Kiwi

[@garypaisley]

THX!

[@BCRUK]

You don't say of you can then lay up with polyester resin?

[@easycompositestv]

You can't. FusionFix EP is an epoxy-based spray and is only compatible with epoxy resin. We wouldn't recommend use with any other resin system because the epoxy in the spray won't be able to crosslink with other resin chemistries in the way it can with epoxy.

[@robn2497]

90 pounds shipping for a single can of FUSION FIX EP to Australia is excessivly overpriced, there were no other options on your website, please explain.

[@easycompositestv]

Unfortunately shipping Dangerous Goods overseas is expensive, this is simply what we are charged by the courier and we don't add anything on top. There is a flat rate for this DG service which can make the cost seem expensive for small orders however it does becomes proportionally less when the order grows.

[@henriquetameirao]

Why can't you guys ship this goods estou Brazil?!

[@easycompositestv]

Unfortunately, aerosols are flammable and so are classed as 'dangerous goods' for the purposes of transport. The couriers we use (TNT, FedEx and UPS) offer dangerous goods services to some countries and not to others. Unfortunately, none of these couriers offer a dangerous goods service to Brazil and so we're unable to ship there (except for when using a bespoke freight shipment, like sending a full pallet or shipping container). Apologies for any disappointment this causes.

[@dudeguyman77]

nice

[@Mc007Queen]

Why istn carbon fiber weave like any other material like they do any other material like cotton ? Hemp is not weaved like that , its a plant

[@easycompositestv]

Carbon is actually woven in the same way as many other fabrics depending on their application. I think what you're referring to with cotton is things like T-Shirt fabric which is in fact knitted. This allows the material to have a stretch and flexibility to it which is great for a garment of clothing but absolutely the opposite of what you want from a composite fabric. Weaving fabrics keeps the fibres in a much straighter orientation and as flat as possible therefore reducing the stretch in the fabric, when laminated this contributes to the stiffness of the end result. Our hemp and flax fibres for composites are also woven in this very same way.

[@ubacow7109]

I feel like for large projects it would be nice if you sold the solution in bulk so people can spray it w/ a spray gun

[@bradr539]

This is what i do. Wait until its tack free, flip,spray and immediately this side on mold suface.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Brad, yes, this is a nice way of working if you want to be able to position the fabric into the mould in a similar way to how you would a prepreg (i.e., tacking it to the surface) as you'll get the extra stabilisation from the initial application and then the tacky position-ability from the fresh application on the other side. Nice to hear your feedback on this.

[@Kr1zToV]

this can really help preserve the tissue before decay

[@edrcozonoking]

Your shipping rates to the Us stop me from buying your producs every time.

[@easycompositestv]

Unfortunately the surcharges to ship dangerous goods are quite high and as a fixed cost, do make smaller orders proportionally more expensive. We are working on a solution to ease this burden which will hopefully be implemented in the new year so keep an eye out for more news on that.

[@HEKOT77]

Australia is feeling jealous :(

[@easycompositestv]

We can ship to Australia from our UK site, just use the store in the normal way and select Australia from the dropdown at the point of checkout.

[@HEKOT77]

@@easycompositestv what a great surprise! And can you ship any goods, including epoxy and cloth?

[@easycompositestv]

@@HEKOT77 There are a couple of products which we can't ship but the majority of things are fine. For products with a Dangerous goods classification there are various surcharges imposed by the couriers so shipping can seem expensive for small orders but we can get the products to you.

[@HEKOT77]

Thanks a lot! It's a very good news, as I could not find some materials in Oz. And thanks for your videos as well. They are probably the best tutorial videos on YT.

[@easycompositestv]

@@HEKOT77 Thanks for your kind words, if you need any help placing an order or working out shipping our sales team will be happy to help.

[@ROBOTRIX_eu]

[@pierrex3226]

As the spray fixes the fabric in space and time, but still leaves it usable and pliable, could I use the spray on my girlfriend? I'd rather she doesn't age, but I do need her usable and pliable, as I wouldn't have much use for an actual statue.

[@dr1311]

Hilarious, the best comment imho.😂

[@broughxtreme]

Just don't let her see your post or you will then need a usable and pliable hand to take her place.

[@TonyHammitt]

Hehe, I'm sure some 90's girls thought to use hairspray, too!

[@leggysoft]

Does not discuss safety, does not bring up reduced layer adhesion. If you don't have data on the impact proving it's minimal this can NOT be used in any serious application and only for cosmetic CF parts.

[@easycompositestv]

Thi is because you won't see any measurable reduction in mechanical properties of the laminate after using FusionFix EP either as a stabiliser, or as a spray adhesive within the laminate. The longer answer as to why this is the case is due to the adhesive being epoxy based. Although it dries to the touch after 10-20 mins, it hasn't actually cured or cross-linked at this point. It just leaves a few grams of uncured epoxy as a trace on the fabric. When the part is infused, the uncured resin will just become a fractional part of the resin matrix and cross link with the hardener, together with the rest of the resin. The amount of extra resin side is barely even a rounding error. This has been verified by using the FusionFix EP between plies in the laminate and then testing the cured laminate using a rigorous 3-point bend test, looking for any reduction in interlaminar shear. The results showed no difference in mechanical performance between laminates that had used FusionFix EP and those that hadn't. For context, several studies have been done in the past on the effect of rubber-based spray adhesives (which most are) which did show measurable reduction in interlaminar shear strength of cured laminates, particularly epoxy-based ones which - having no solvent - are unable to dissolve and disperse rubber compounds.

[@leggysoft]

@@easycompositestv This is great to hear, you should totally post a piece of that data in the product description, I was thinking of shear strength and those inferior products.

[@CraigOverend]

Hair spray

[@easycompositestv]

It works in a similar fashion yes, although formulated specifically to be compatible with a resin system.

[@darthsnouty]

Cheap hairspray works just fine..

[@atmospheres11]

Is hairspray epoxy?

[@DanielJames-h9h]

Treat the edges not the entire body of cloth.

[@filepz629]

❤️‍🔥🫂❤️‍🔥

[@pierrispanagakos6468]

10*****"