Analog Multimeters - Some Tips and Review of 3 Low-Cost Models

[@slcinaz23]

I was a production line troubleshooter at Triplett in the early 70's. There are many considerations that go into the design of a VOM. The meter movement was always key. Most VOM's today are taut band movements. There were some early model Triplett meters that were jeweled pivot movements. Very expensive to produce. Triplett also experimented with some very high ohms/volt movements but the wire for movements was so thin that mass producing them was difficult. Most meter movements usually require to be balanced. The quality of that balancing will play a huge effect on the performance of a meter depending on whether a meter is operating upright, flat, or at a 45 degree angle. Most meters are calibrated for full scale deflection and the most accurate readings will occur at or near full scale. The accuracy of anything reading below half scale should be considered less precise. Safety is also key. During the time I was at Triplett the Model 60 VOM was developed. It incorporated numerous safety features that are lacking in less expensive meters. The most dangerous situation is inadvertently leaving a meter in a low ohm resistance measurement setting and then carelessly trying to making a high voltage measurement. DO NOT TRY THIS!

[@Chipchase780]

I ordered a Tekpower TP8260L just before seeing your very absorbing and informative video (I'm a complete novice in this area) so I watched with some trepidation as you worked toward reviewing my choice! Hearing you conclude that you would be happy to keep it on your bench was a huge relief, especially as its coming from the US to the UK where I live. My intention is to learn the dark craft of repairing old valve or 'tube' radios, so I hope it is suitable for this work. I purchased a 1965 AVO 8 mk 3, I believe the Uk counterpart to your excellent Simpson multimeters, an amazing example of solid high-quality old-school engineering, but the movement is sticking. I'll be seeking advice on how to get it back into service again. Thank you for the excellent video, sir!

[@johnnytoobad7785]

When I first started building electronic kits..I purchased a FET (10Meg impedance) analog meter from Radio Shack. I used that meter to help me build two Heathkit bench-top analog meters. They are all over 40 years old now. I still use all three. The Heath meters have been re-capped, chips replaced & re-cal'd.

[@keybutnolock]

That reminds me of the road-sweeper with a 20 year old broom : 4 new heads and 2 new handles ! (Trigger-Only fool n horses).

[@Pootycat8359]

A word of advice: Do NOT check a small-signal transistor with the "R X 1" range. The current can damage it. I've known this, for a long time, but out of curiosity, I just checked the current output of my Triplett, on R X 1. It goes to a maximum of 118.5 ma. That could FRY a little transistor! Also, if your meter has high battery voltage (like the 30V, in a Tripett 630), be sure the junction PIVs can handle it.

[@rajanne2947]

I like these analog meters! Used them in high school we didn't have digital meters then! Sanwa was one brand. Thanks for the tips. I understand these can get inaccurate if banged around unlike the digital ones!

[@stanstolarski8325]

Appreciate this video. My Simpson sadly "walked off" about 20 years ago & I needed a decent swing arm meter to check volume/tone pots as well as pulses on revolving magnetic proximity sensors. Before I viewed this video I did a little research & opted to get the Tekpower TP 7244L which had the largest display face of meters I looked at & so far has worked quite well. I do like the transistor check feature on the TP 8260L & it seems to have an ample sized meter face. I really miss the Simpson as I could see readings from 15 feet away back in the day. Your recommendation has "forced" me to go to Amazon & purchase the TP 8260L. Sadly I need to confess that I am a hard core tool junkie & one can never have too many tools or diagnostic devices. Again thanks for sharing this video. All the best to you & yours & stay well always !!!

[@JasonLeaman]

I used to have a nice Analog meter when i was a kid that Dad gave me, i think ill grabone of these TP8260's off amazon !! God video ! Brings back memories !

[@Pootycat8359]

When I was first getting into electronics, as a teenager, common advice to beginners was: Get a VTVM! If you tried to measure the AC line voltage, or 300V B(+), and forgot to take it off "ohms," no problem. Those 12AU7s would freak out, temporarily, shrug it off, and get back to work. This may seem like anachronistic advice, these days, but it STILL makes sense. Incidentally, in the 1980s, I lent a VOM to a friend who was taking a basic electronics class at the local community college. When I got it back, it had a fried resistor....

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Thanks, Tony. I like my little Pro's Kit MT-2017. Nowhere near as good as my BK Precision 114A, but the Pro's Kit has a 1.5V and 9V selectors that test the batteries under a load. It also has reverse polarity. But like any meter, including my Fluke and Brymen, Probe Master leads are much better than the leads that come with any of the meters I have seen. You can get Probe Master leads with just about any plug type that you need on them.

[@PeterMilanovski]

Whaaaaat? You were actually able to make a longer video than what you already do but didn't???? LoL... Nah I love long videos... It's what keeps me coming back for more!

[@Starter61]

Nice nostalgic video ! I love analog meters because you can easily spot a raise or drop of voltage or current at a glance.

[@keybutnolock]

That's THE best thing about 'analog' displays. You don't have to read them, imagine a pilot having digital read out for all instruments.

[@friedmule5403]

Great video! :-) According to my categorization is there 5 types of voltmeters: 1) Trow away DMM, it's a low precision and resolution digital meter that is only used to test if the voltage is there and about what you hope. The meter can be used in situations where you don't care if it should ever blow up. 2) Expensive precision DMM, the meter you rely upon, the meter that is for knowing what is really is going on. 3) Bench multimeter of the same kind as number 1, but where it's important the meter stays on for hours or days. 4) Expensive bench meter as in number 2 and you want to monitor with a flowchart or something like that 5) The analog meter, is very important to detect variation in voltage where some random numbers are less clear than a vibrating needle.

[@kennyrmurray]

Looking forward to watching this one just like all the others! Keep me coming, they’re great!

[@williswet]

Thanks for your time Tony. Great information. I have a few oldies and a VTVM as well.

[@Pootycat8359]

38:11 I hate to say it, but that meter is within spec. It's probably rated as (+) or (--) 3% of FULL SCALE. That reading looks like 4.7 to 4.8V. I know, we all expect our meters to be a lot more accurate than they're guaranteed to be, and usually, they are. But if the manufacturer wants to squeak by with the minimum requirement, they can.

[@Pootycat8359]

A couple of months ago, I bought a Triplett 60 ("permissible," ie, suitable for use in explosive atmospheres), from Ebay, for $30 + $20 shipping. It was dirty, but otherwise in excellent condition. I checked it against my Fluke 87III, and it's well within specs. There are plenty of old Tripletts, Simpsons, etc, out there, at a reasonable cost. Some may need refurbishing, most, probably not. It's worth the small chance that you'll get a lemon, for the probability you'll get a nice, high-quality meter.

[@mdzacharias]

Sorry to interject again, but the "output" jack just incorporates a DC blocking capacitor for the AC function, mainly for measuring AC signal voltage at the plate of a tube so the circuit doesn't get swamped out. Can't help myself - I'm an old multimeter junkie.

[@eggshellskullrule7971]

Right on the day of your vid I dashed out crying enough is enough, and paid $50 to buy a genuine Sanwa YX360TRF analogue multimètre. The shop tried to let me choose btwn a $11 copy (haha, it’s model number was YX360TRD, how interesting huh!?) and that Sanwa. It’s total false economy I made over all those 30 years buying 8 multimètres all made in 🇨🇳 and all dead within only several years. This is my second Sanwa now. They are marked made in Japan for a very simple and obvious reason. For one, it says it has a platinum band on the base of its swivel for accuracy and long lasting use.

[@ydonl]

I think I saw in the user manual that you can adjust the volume of the continuity buzzer with a pair of wire cutters.

[@emelitoduran1571]

The second meter is what I use for repairing ecus, and some consumer electronics which doesnt need much accuracy, happy with my meter as long as you understand that the circuit component your testing is not critical which is mostly in my case. Owning a fluke is royalty here in our country is kind of overkill in my line of work

[@tubeDude48]

*Mustools* are quite good. As well as the one above I mentioned. also, do not use Duracell from Japan. They leak like crazy. I used to buy nothing but Duracell, BUT NO LONGER!!! I now buy *Energizer* *Ultimate* *Lithium.* They are excellent in the length of time they will last!!

[@jma8352]

thanks, i ordered the tekpower tp8260l to check the old heathkit analog meter

[@michaelwolak3098]

Hi Tony such an enthralling video and right at the end you mentioned the mirror which is for parallex errors which when I was training I was told tha we should use the mirror as the reading as this was more accurate, the two meters that I used was a Simpson and a avo 8 Regards Mike

[@srtamplification]

Long video, but well worth watch. Great job!!!!

[@AubreyKeck]

I use the Tekpower TP8250 and have been happy with it. It's a little different from the TP8260 in that it doesn't have the transistor tester but does have a D ohms and a centered DC volt function

[@hullinstruments]

I would love your input on the micronta brand vom meters. You can still get them new/like new condition. I picked up several by accident in test equipment lots over the past few years.… I have so many multimeters in my lab I really don’t need anymore. But I was intrigued by the seemingly great quality.. Like models 22-220 and 22-210, And even the cheaper smaller meters. They might not be completely up to par with the Simpson 260 and the triplet meters… of which I’ve had dozens and probably have a dozen right now in my lab…..But they’re about 90% there. Which for the price… It’s great!

[@tarstarkusz]

Anything I'm not using that often, like a cheap multi-meter or rarely used remote controls or radios get Panasonic carbon-zinc (blue ones) batteries. There is not one brand of alkaline batteries that don't leak. The expensive brands like Duracell and Energizer leak like crazy. Duracells are so bad, the package should say "Guaranteed to leak or your money back!" Panasonic CZ batteries almost never leak in my experience. I have left them in the most leak prone devices, those old tiger LCD games that put a tiny load on the battery when powered off. 10 years and no leaks. I have never seen one leak. Yeah, they don't last as long, but these are things not in constant use and not being in constant use, one set of batteries, even CZ ones will last for many years. Devices operated a lot are not as much of a leak concern because they go dead before the battery is old.

[@hullinstruments]

A few thoughts on batteries… For sensitive test equipment. I always use “energizer ultimate lithiums” in test equipment or sensitive devices. They outlast even the most expensive high end alkalines….by a huge margin!! I’v had so many things ruined by alkalines, (mostly Duracell)….. its cost me a fortune over the years!!!! Not to mention all the stuff that come into my lab for repair!!! Two of my most favorite troubleshooting tools ever made, suffered serious damage on multiple occasions because of Duracell and another alkaline batteries. These pieces of test equipment were handmade by a guy who doesn’t make them anymore… They are now highly sought after… And I was devastated each time it happened. I literally use them all day every day in my lab. Was Very lucky it didn’t do irreversible damage to the sensitive circuit. I will NEVER USE Alkalines again except in a cheap toy. I hate Duracell‘s in particular, but believe it or no….Duracell makes one of the best rechargeable batteries available! And they never leak because they are a different chemistry. The rechargeable eneloop batteries are the best thing in most cases. But they are NIMH, which is only 1.2 volts, which is obviously no good for test gear. There are a lot of things that don’t like the lower voltage… But in 90% of the situation… Rechargeable NIMH is the way to go! But the eneloops are great for many reasons… Especially since they’re available in any size or shape. For example… If you need a C or D cell battery… They sell a small module that looks just like a C D battery. You simply unscrew the top, and put AA’s or AAA is inside. Now you have perfect C and D cells for all types of applications. What’s really exciting, is rechargeable lithium ion batteries are becoming more widely available in the AA, AAA, and 9v sizes. Might take a few more years for Technology to mature and become more affordable.. But the ones I’ve tried out… I was really impressed!

[@tarstarkusz]

@@hullinstruments I haven't had the kinds of problems I have heard people say they had with the lower voltage of NIMH cells. 1,2v is well within the life cycle of a regular primary cell. Unlike alkaline cells where as the voltage drops the current capability drops, the rechargeable can deliver its full current at 1.2v

[@stevelueb7787]

Wow!!! Glad I got my Simpson 260 $35 used but it works perfectly

[@lenzielenski3276]

I have 2 Simpson 260's. One from a pawn shop was $25. Other from a garage sale was $5. I'll be getting my late father's meter as well. Just keep your eyes open.

[@Pootycat8359]

In the 1960s & 70s, ALL of the Japanese meters had the red (--) & black, (+), on ohms. That included a very nice EICO "Truvohm," 100K/V VOM I had. It looked like a Simpson 260, but had a mirrored scale, and was of better construction, internally. The RCA "VIZ" VOMs were like that, too, as was B&K, Radio Shack, etc.

[@johnblystone8781]

Thanks for all your hard work!

[@markanderson350]

My first meter was analog. It was a kit, maybe allied radio shack. It had hooks molded into the plastic as terminal strips for the resistors. I remember it came with solid wire and colored insulation you slid over the wire. This was in the early 70's and my uncle later got me a simpson 260. No idea where any of it went. It was in with all my toys and kits etc. No affordable digital till a decade later.

[@mackfisher4487]

Tony, After the bakelite case broke on my old Simpson 270 broke I threw in a cardboard box and put it somewhere after watching your video I think I'll see if I can find it. I remembered at the time when I looked in a Newark catalog the price for a replacement case was more than my H. S. allowance could afford.

[@christophervillanti1417]

Analog meters are most accurate in the center third of the scale. Anytime you measure something try to arrange the scale so that the value you are looking for falls in the center.

[@johncoops6897]

No, they are usually calibrated at FULL SCALE - so are inherently less accurate at the mid and low end of the range.

[@dkmmhdk]

To my knowledge you read a mirrored scale by making sure the mirror-image is exactly under the needle, then you know you are reading the scale straight on.

[@johncoops6897]

You mean like he explains at 1:19:12 ?

[@Joetechlincolns]

Parallax mirror.

[@johncoops6897]

@@Joetechlincolns - Do you enjoy making stuff up and posting it online?

[@johncoops6897]

@@Joetechlincolns - editing the spelling mistake (paralax >> parallax) doesn't cover up the fact that you are just making shit up.

[@b2gills]

There are some analog meters that need a battery for measuring voltage. I have a Heathkit IM-17, and I thought it was broken when I got it because it didn't measure voltage. Turns out it needs the 8v mercury battery to operate at all. (I added a modern 9v battery clip.) After I put the battery in and went through the adjustment, It now works like a charm. In fact I trust it more than some of my digital meters.

[@schorse1000]

Of course, the IM-17 has a measuring amplifier in it, it's like a VTVM but with transistors.. Big advantage, you have the same impedance in all ranges.

[@johnsweda2999]

You have to clean the probes with isopropenyl when their new because they have a coating on them from the process of manufacturing

[@Homer19521]

Nice job. I wonder if static electricity played a part in the need for 0 read for the cheaper units and maybe the accuracy on occasion? I find the better meters seem to be less affected. I also add some fader lube or gold Caig to the banana probes to reduce oxidation & interface resistance. I really liked that you noted how some service manuals spec the ohms/volt of the measuring device.

[@Pootycat8359]

I've had that problem with MANY meters. Just put a few drops of dish detergent in a Tsp of water, dab it on the plastic with your finger, and rub it around. Then wipe it down with a cloth or toilet paper. Don't rub TOO much, just enough so it's dry. It lasts quite a while, but may need a repeat treatment, occasionally.

[@Homer19521]

Some say dryer sheets also work.

[@barryf5479]

I bought a Tekpower 7244L meter for about $33 and it's also a good meter. One "gotcha" that I ran in to is that meter, like the one you also showed doesn't have a clear "pointer" marking on the range knob. It's just a beveled end and it doesn't really stand out. As fate would have it, I had it set 180 degrees wrong and that setting caused the voltage scale to actually be a current scale in reality. Yes, it blew the fuse but it also wiped out several SMT resistors that I could not replace (no schematic for values). So, be aware. Don't make the same mistake I did :-(

[@jma8352]

i just got my tekpower today, i like it, thanks for the review. do you know if i can do the 800 volt test on the heathkit hp 23 with it?

[@louf7178]

I have to rebuild my old analog meter. It's been on the to-do list for years. I think it's a burnt high-watt resistor.

[@Rob-rg4oe]

There is no HFE-Probe for these meters. The model higher up in the range, the YX-960TR has a little socket on the right side of the selector switch where you can plug in transistors.

[@keybutnolock]

21:48 Wrong fuse ? What would be correct ?

[@johncoops6897]

An HRC fuse that doesn't physically explode when it protects you against a high voltage and current. For example, if you accidentally poke the probes into a mains socket. The glass fuses open with such force that they can break the glass, and also there may be a plasma arc that will melt the case. The HRC fuses are filled with sand or silica that contains the explosion of the fuse wire and breaks any arc that forms.

[@keybutnolock]

@@johncoops6897 Wow ! sounds like that would make a mess, Thanks.

[@Chipchase780]

@@johncoops6897 Thanks for that, I was pondering the same thing, I'll be changing the stock leads AND fuses when my Tekpower arrives !

[@71Fenderv22]

In case anybody reading this is wondering, what a great but cheaper alternative to Fluke is, I would have to give a big thumbs up to Amprobe... Same safety ratings, good accuracy and about half the price.

[@keybutnolock]

Another great video - thanks.

[@srtamplification]

The burden of a VOM can also interfere with oscillator circuits where a DMM or VTVM may not affect it much.

[@ohmeyedaze]

On your Micronta meter , the socket for the red lead says + Volts, - Ohms, - Amps.

[@eddys.3524]

In the old days, these analog meters used to have a "class" indication which indicated the accuracy in percents of the multimeter. Obviously the cheap modern ones are missing that indication. In some applications the analog meters are to be preferred over digital meters.

[@Mally56ytube]

Thanks for the review I found it helpfull

[@stanstolarski8325]

OK I put my newly acquired Powertek TP7244L through a few simple tests. !. Had to zero the meter needle arm as it was off by an increment. No big deal. Interesting anomaly when measuring resistance/continuity. With the back light on the readings dropped maybe 3-5% When the light shut down the readings when back up that 3-5%. Not very good in ,my opine. You would think that a device with two AA batteries as well as a 9 volt battery would not behave like this. Other than this quirk the meter seemed accurate enough for general use. I'm now considering maybe returning this & hoping that the TP8260L I ordered will not have this issue.

[@mdzacharias]

The Radio Shack Range Doublers did not actually change their Ohms/Volt rating; just the internal meter sensitivity and meter scales. The actual DC resistance of a Range Doubler as measured with another meter, barely changes at all when you go from 25kOhm/volt to 50kOhm/volt. A little misleading when they sold them that way. Yes, they doubled the ranges, but the circuit loading was effectively the same.

[@Pootycat8359]

41:54 No, no, NO! The "Output" jack in an INPUT. It places a capacitor in series, so you can measure the AC component of a signal, in the presence of DC. The main use is in measuring audio signals, when there's a DC offset.

[@greengrayradio1394]

Good VOM test! It seems many (oriental) VOMs have the polarity reversed on the probes in ohms mode (one of the DMMs I have also has reversed polarity in ohms) Also, I got the impression the last two you tested had "sluggish" meter movements. Maybe a little "love tap" on it would help? Ideally, this should not be necessary, but still..

[@waynegram8907]

XRAYTONYB, can you list examples of measuring what analog, digital, other types signals using analog meters? what are the advantages of using analog meters compared to digital meters

[@xraytonyb]

I talked about this in the video. I also showed several pages from service manuals where they specify a VTVM or VOM, depending on the test point. Thanks for watching!

[@IgorIglesias]

Really good video and explanation, thank you!

[@robc4191]

I don't know why, and this isn't an insult - i think - but seeing tony always reminds me of eddy haskel.

[@hullinstruments]

My apologies this is off topic..... Was rewatching your analog multimeter video a few days ago..... I've been hoping for years someone would build a modern analog multimeter with built-in ESR tester. And possibly other modern multimeter/lcr functions. There are dirt cheap circuits available capable of this. (You know the ones that have been discussed and talked about on KZbin for years) Basically taking a cheap Chinese LCR meter and having it display on a good quality analog multimeter design. Iv seen them available online but none of them will ship to the USA. I think it would be a very useful device. Again my apologies for this being off topic

[@xraytonyb]

The only analog one I'm familiar with is the capacitor wizard, but it is a stand-alone ESR meter, just like the digital ones. I'm unaware of any modern analog multimeters that measure ESR directly, as they would have to have a built-in 100kHz signal source to give the correct reading.

[@hullinstruments]

@@xraytonyb here's an example. eoutlet.factory2024salescheap.com/content?c=esr+meter+analog&id=28 They are common an popular elsewhere around the world. Some look better than others. But would be great to have a high quality version with all that functionality.

[@xraytonyb]

Wow, that's really cool! I honestly have never seen one of those. I wonder how well they work???

[@diyelectronics5375]

For 3 meter I choose Tekpower quality build but nothing can beat SANWA japan Quality meter

[@cat-lw6kq]

In my opinion the best analog meter was the ones issued to me at AT&T many years ago. They were made to Bell System standards.

[@joehubler4965]

Hey, bud you may be mistaken about the "OUTPUT" socket, I have that on some of my VOMs and it's an AC coupled input, it blocks DC. VERY stupid label, but all my Simpson meters have it.

[@m.k.8158]

I was just about to make the same point-on every meter that I've seen this on, it's a AC coupled input(IOW, there is a capacitor in series with that jack).

[@xraytonyb]

You are correct. I misspoke. I totally forgot about the output input on the Simpson! ;) Thanks!

[@autosuggestion7267]

thanks sir

[@ericgilliland6140]

I picked up a brand new simpson 260 series 9SP today for 250 bucks.

[@pa4tim]

I have a lot of analog meters incvluding AVO-8's and a Simpson 260 but the only one that is spoton in almost every range is an old Pantec Chinaglia Dolomiti US. It looks a bit cheap and simple but it is a pretty good build little meter with great ranges for electronics . It has a resetable fuse and a fused probe . It would be by far my favorite meter if there were no DMMs. A tip, if the meter is not used for a long time I hook it up in V mode to a function generators slow triangle wave and and let it "sweep" for a hour or so. You can see the pantec on my (advertisement free) hobby site: www.pa4tim.nl/?p=5615