Angle Angle Laminate and Vinyl Flooring Installation Tips

[@terrminatoragain461]

Whom ever came up with these angle angle flooring systems,apparently has never installed around a door jam,what a pain !

[@michaelbeardsley9743]

How do you deal with the edge in a doorway, the edge up against a bath tub, and the edge facing tile? Do those edges get glued down? Great video by the way. Thanks.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Michael, you don't want to secure this kind of flooring down, because it must be allowed to expand and contract. When laminate flooring meets any edge, you would leave a small gap, created by installing the flooring up against spacers, rather than going right up against the vertical surface. This allows the material to expand and contract with moisture and temperature changes. It is the same with hardwood flooring. Over or across any gap you would then install a piece of trim. +Michael Beardsley

[@niaspencer9160]

So. Clutch. Omg. These instructions make SO much sense. Far more helpful than those the manufacturer sent me, actually...Not sure they know their product is “angle-angle”! I’ve been struggling to lay my bedroom floor and after watching this I’ve quadrupled my installation pace and halved my stress. THANK YOU!

[@bettyaase9429]

on laminate flooring, using planks, that look like different size tiles with grout lines, I cannot get the grout lines to line up correctly

[@FloorsToYourHome]

That's probably by design. The intended look it one of randomly laid tiles rather than tiles which are lined up in any direction.

[@peterfido8735]

Great advice but why not demonstrate installing the 3rd 4th 5th 6th etc board's in the second row ? This is where most people struggle especially if it's a long run . It's straight forward laying 3 or 4 boards in the second row but any more becomes tricky .

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Well, we didn't do it because when we shot the video, the Standard Practice from consultants on these things was "Keep it short!" and so forth. "Simple." "One idea per video. *One.* " Dumb advice, and we shouldn't have followed it. Sometimes it's alright, but people say "Less is *more!* " like it's Holy Writ. But also, we didn't go further because in our experience, the third and fourth rows are pretty much like the second. I don't recall this particular question coming up either, so could you tell us what you're running into? And is it specifically with vinyl (used in the demo, but the method works for laminates as well - *any* angle to angle click-together, really)? Maybe we can try to recreate the problem here and video the answer for you.

[@peterfido8735]

@@FloorsToYourHome thank you for taking the time to reply . Here's a problem I had recently whilst fitting laminate flooring. Each board was 1180mm long and 400mm wide , the first row was easy and so was the first board of the second row . The long edges clicked together perfectly but was then impossible to click into the shorter edge , the Only way I could get the boards together after dropping the long edge down was by shaving off the click mechanism on the short edge. I then applied glue and knocked together with a pull bar . The only other way around it was to click all short edges together first then try laying a long run in one go , almost impossible on a long run especially when they had to go under kitchen units . The boards were 12mm thick, any advice on how I could have done thing's different would be great . On narrower laminate boards I'd usually drop the long edge down then simply top the short edges together using an off cut with no major problems, with the boards being so wide this method was impossible without shaving off the click mechanism .

[@FloorsToYourHome]

I *think* I understand what you're describing, Peter. If your floor is indeed an angle-to-angle installation type floor, then the long side is not locked in first, but second, after the short side. It's the major difference in the installation methods between angle-to-angle and drop-and-lock, the two main versions of click-together flooring. We made a pretty short video on that difference here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2XQiJmArN2csLM If you watched to the end of that, you could probably see that if you had a drop-and-lock floor, those end joints would have been no problem. They all but fall into place, so it sounds like you really had an angle-to-angle style of click-together, and with those, the shorter, end sides must lock together first, and only then are the long sides to get locked. Our guy Brian demonstrates that at this point in the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnTNfZmAh5hmfZo But here is a video where we used a thick laminate floor for the demo, which sounds more applicable, starting where Adam is already doing the second row: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKPSeKN_fdt9d9E (Adam always suggests doing the first few rows away from the wall, so the plank connections are a little easier, then pushing those rows into place after there are a few - that's why he's in the middle of the floor [and this was a quickie, done to answer a customer ASAP]) ...boy that one's shaky. Sorry about that. We rushed it for a customer. He starts a third row in this one, and it's pretty much just like the second, so that was as far as we went. Hopefully this is the answer? If not, please chime in again, and we'll see what we can figure out.

[@harryizzo5910]

Exactly peter fido

[@dm55]

Really helpful. Thank for the upload.

[@Sdwood79]

You didn’t show puting the end pieces or show the end seams actually locking

[@890mikes]

Thank you. This was a great help.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

We used the Supreme Elite Vinyl for this demo, and it has no listed temp. limits, but with average highs getting up to 105 in some Julys ('Julies'?), you might want this to be in a 'climate controlled environment' - air conditioned. The elite responds normally to the environment, expanding and contracting, which you handle in installation anyway, but it is recommended to not be installed over heated flooring set higher than 92 degrees. +Flooring Scottsdale

[@johnr5545]

Thanks god bless

[@FloorsToYourHome]

It may be that for some dogs, this is not going to be the best floor. My customer service people could go into detail with you regarding your dog and whether this is a good choice, or what you may look for instead. They aren't hard sell people, they really will just answer your questions, so feel free to call. Our number is at the website in the description (sorry for the runaround - many things aren't allowed in comments!)

[@FloorsToYourHome]

What people use is either a special vinyl floor "eraser", a mixture of baking soda and water, thick enough to be called a paste, or WD-40. Each of these would be applied to the floor, and then rubbed in a circular motion with a white cloth. The other type of scuff is actually the removal of a thin layer of the vinyl surface, like a thin scrape. Neither scuffs of this sort nor scratches in the surface can be fixed by cleaning - that's just damage. In that case you would replace the plank.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Hi, Mr. Carter, These floors do expand and contract, but minimally, less than what is expected of laminates, to give a comparison. For scuffs, there are two things that could mean. One involves a scuff made by something leaving residue of itself on the floor. In this case, use procedures that would be standard for any vinyl floor, because aside from the construction, that's what Supreme Click Elite is.

[@FloorsToYourHome]

Thank you, Eric! It's Supreme Click Elite Waterproof Vinyl Plank Battlefield Oak! The direct link is now in the description under the video.

[@1Humanoid]

Do these waterproof planks expand or shrink when it gets hot or cold? I was looking into these planks but am not sure about the cleaning ability eg: scuff marks or scratches from large dog. How do you remove marks that are on them. I seen them in a small shop that had marks on them that dont seem to come off when moped. Is there a way to clean marks of them. If there is then I would look at it more positively. There doesnt seem to be any talk about removing marks of these planks.. Good Video

[@flooringscottsdale2038]

We don't carry this line. Will this hold up in the heat in an Arizona room here in Scottsdale AZ ?

[@ginasoliz1657]

can u glue down the vinyl lock in click flooring if so is there a how to video for it

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Gina Soliz Laminate - never. Vinyl and hardwood - well, you shouldn't, but I guess you can. A click lock floor is supposed to be able to adjust, as a complete floor, to changes in the environment. The whole thing will expand and contract around 1/4" in a standard sized room. Gluing it down is a little redundant, so it's done infrequently enough that we haven't made a video on it. A couple of KZbin searches didn't pull anything about combining the two installation methods either. If you want a glue down vinyl, you would be better with one designed that way, or the Loose Lay we carry, which can be all glued down, or partially glued down,a s you prefer. If you clue anything click-together though, you would have to glue all of it. - David

[@ginasoliz1657]

can u glue down the vinyl lock in click flooring if so is there a how to video for it

[@FloorsToYourHome]

+Gina Soliz Laminate - never. Vinyl and hardwood - well, you *shouldn't*, but I guess you can. A click lock floor is supposed to be able to adjust, as a complete floor, to changes in the environment. The whole thing will expand and contract around 1/4" in a standard sized room. Gluing it down is a little redundant, so it's done infrequently enough that *we* haven't made a video on it. A couple of KZbin searches didn't pull anything about combining the two installation methods either. If you want a glue down vinyl, you would be better with one designed that way, or the Loose Lay we carry, which can be all glued down, or partially glued down,a s you prefer. If you clue anything click-together though, you would have to glue all of it. - David

[@michaeloakley5162]

great vid ,cheers!!