Another cheap eBay LED floodlight. Is it really going to be 50W?

It's a while since I've bought a cheap eBay floodlight, so I thought I'd buy a 50W unit to see how the insides have changed, if the ground is connected yet and if it's actually 50W.
I also bought this light for the case. I wonder how well it will dissipate the heat from an actual 50W LED.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of KZbin's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

[@mushroomsamba82]

I picture Clive's house bathed in a glow of warm white LEDs inside and out.

[@tin2001]

All powered by pink USB chargers.

[@redpheonix1000]

@@tin2001 From China

[@mickward2775]

Bigclive better than broadcast TV

[@KrotowX]

Indeed.

[@arduinoversusevil2025]

You beautiful manxome bastard! Starting to see these everywhere; was curious. Disposable outdoor-ish fixtures? Don't tell my insurance broker.

[@JuanHerrero]

Hi.

[@slamdvw]

Or a cheap waterproof ( resistant ) enclosure with a glass cover..

[@siayourcannaguy6106]

AvE Do more snoeboarding videos.

[@frogz]

Hey man, I've been riding in Chicago snow on a bike every day, I can sympathize completely, today the snow was slush and will freeze solid by night

[@Kc12v140]

These housings are at least useful to mod in some better components. Can't beat all the kit it has for 10 bucks.

[@lostjohnny9000]

I was working Saturdays at Maplin around 1998 and someone brought in a beautiful antique bronze table lamp that required a bulb. The owner said they just had it rewired but I pointed out there was only two-core flex attached. The owner said it did have an earth lead but she didn't want to bring it along. When I asked why she said it was tangled in the roots of her Yukka's plant pot.

[@Blox117]

so she thought 'earth' meant she could put it in her flower pot? lol

[@Alexander_l322]

@@Blox117 I think you're just supposed to laugh

[@Blox117]

@@Alexander_l322 LOL HAHAHAAHAHA!

[@lasersbee]

13:43.... Finally Clive.... We've all been screaming at the screen pointing to that ground stud since 6:00

[@ChrisColeman1962]

Just ordered one, took forever to find the buyer you bought from !! Can't wait to have a play with it, first I will connect the earth, never commented on any of your posts, but been watching you for ages now, I love your channel !

[@beware_the_moose]

It's 50W PMPO

[@amitabhsrivastava1255]

Underrated comment

[@Cheese_1337]

hahaha

[@benbaselet2026]

I do believe that would be in the 500 to 5000 watt range

[@bluerizlagirl]

Yeah, like the "65 litre" rucksack I bought from a now closed-down camping shop, that was about 35 litres RMS .....

[@bluephreakr]

To answer your question Clive, because if they see you grounded it, they know you messed with it! Also, see if Thermal Grizzly's new graphite pads can make for a suitable substitute for the zinc oxide grease. Just for giggles. It's mess-free, won't ever wash off in wet conditions (hopefully) and comes in a couple sizes; I imagine one large enough to cover the space.

[@BH4x0r]

I have the 50W and 100W version of these exact chips, they were like €5 on Banggood they also light up perfectly like that when you crank the voltage up to overcome the forward voltage, really happy with them and whichever manufacturer it actually is, seems reliable

[@samueljames9342]

They saved 1/100th of a cent by not earthing that wire.

[@bob_._.]

Hey, it adds up.

[@FusionDeveloper]

Yeah, a screw or solder or even silicone/glue, anything to hold it in place better than something that could be shaken off the casing.

[@jmsterdam]

And now they will loose many times 10 dollar because these viewers will never buy one...

[@nbtmx1]

The earth wire is meant to be attached to a left hand thread

[@benbaselet2026]

The driver helpfully labels the output cable colors even, Brown for the negative and Brue for the positive, as one does. Also their basic physics is faultless quality with 36 V times 0,6 A equalling not 21,6 but 50 W because hey, everyone likes to save energy, right?

[@heronimousbrapson863]

Brue??

[@terryendicott2939]

@@heronimousbrapson863 - It is a common color like geen and wellow.

[@Clearwater420]

Can I ask curious question , how is it this video was posted 10 to 30 mins ago how did you comment 3 DAYS before the upload ? Just confused lol

[@stellar3327]

Those colors are standard for some countries

[@Mark1024MAK]

Jesse LeBlanc - Clive uses a time machine called the TARDIS...

[@kc8wzm]

I think the thing I like about your channel is that you do take things apart.

[@Soooperspeed]

love the way at 10:57 the LED driver output says (BROWN) and (BRUE)

[@theotherwalt]

...and they have red and bwack hooked up to it.

[@Soooperspeed]

@@theotherwalt maybe they spwelt it right and we are wrlong

[@mikecowen6507]

@@Soooperspeed You no Wong! He Wong!

[@Soooperspeed]

@@mikecowen6507 ha ha ha ... my wowwy my really wowwy ... lol

[@rogersmith9808]

@@mikecowen6507 In the words of the late, great Louie Anderson: "Yew been hee sree owwa... yew eat too much... yew go home now"!!! 😁

[@kennedy67951]

Very nice video. I do appreciate your time in doing all the video's you do. I know you make money doing this. But, without people like yourself, we all would be on our on when it comes to buying the good, verses the crap. You have helped me a lot. Saved me time and money. Again, thank you.

[@geoffreygorgonzola248]

Thank god KZbin recommended does right every now and then, your channel is a gold mine

[@slpk]

"The first thing we should do is test" That's how I can tell I'm not watching AvE

[@TheBodgybrothers]

And the fact there is a substantially lower use of puns and made-up words.

[@djstringsmusic2994]

Well ave was here watching with the rest of us. Lol

[@andycarter5617]

The Cliff quick test.. I think way back when I was at school they had one in the physics lab, and I’ve always liked the idea. I wanted to buy one recently until I saw the price, so instead I now have a piece of flex with three Wago 222 connectors on it. I call it the poor man’s quick test.

[@theskett]

I just treated myself to some of the "3 in, 3 out" SPL-3 fake Wagos, as reviewed by Big Clive recently and available here: www.aliexpress.com/item/33013965974.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1f6a4c4dKnpnwR One tenth the cost of the Quick Test, and / or 10x for the same price :-) Am now wondering whether to color-code the levers...

[@csours]

14:00 Yeah that hole is ready for a screw...

[@xIntoThePitx]

Giggity

[@JamesLewis]

12:28 Lets whip it out...

[@bluerizlagirl]

I'm not sure it would be able to take a very long one, though.

[@JamesLewis]

@@bluerizlagirl Never mind the length, feel the gEarth.

[@nathanhoward6472]

I sure miss the days when we could watch videos from you that involved things like flames shooting out of Barbie’s bottom.

[@whatmattersmost6725]

Clive it looks like that driver is rated at 50 watts, on the closeup you can read output 50 Watts. Keep up the great work!

[@alasdair4161]

Aha.. My Chinesium energy algorithm worked a treat again.. simply take the number they state, divide by two and then take a little more off for good measure... It's surprisingly accurate.. sadly

[@licensetodrive9930]

I really like how you end your videos - it's the same as when people in tv shows & films end conversations when talking on the phone, no "goodbye", they just stop talking :)

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

@14:06, "Why on earth have they just not done that?" Why on earth--indeed! Thank you for all the really great vids, Big Clive.

[@kriskroski9664]

"Where is the earth?" *looks to the floor* "I've spotted the earth!"

[@tasmedic]

"why on EARTH have they just not done it?" Oh dear, what a groan! Clive at his best!

[@justbearwithit1642]

Clive, I finally figured out why they rate them 50 watts and they're only 20. The power factor of .56 makes them look to be drawing ~50 watts to the power company! 🤣

[@andrewwilson6240]

And to the customer's meter!

[@Lazmanarus]

Power factor isn't an issue for the domestic market, we are only charged for the true power (in this case 20w). Industrial market does get charged for apparent power, most industrial use is for things like electric motors which would be inductive loads that would give you a lagging pf, a capacitive dropper would be a leading pf, therefore it would compensate somewhat for the lagging pf of the inductive loads. When I was a colliery electrician, we had sodding great big capacitors in our sub-station that we'd have to switch in or out to compensate for the highly inductive loads from our transformers & electric motors.

[@jcmilleker5449]

We bought a couple of these in 80w UV for darkroom work. Same exact build, larger unit and It had an array of surface mount LED's on a panel. Price was $85US. They don't even seem close, but they work.

[@steverpcb]

The popular name for the Cliff Quick test and clones is a LEN box as that's what it says when the lid is open :)

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

Steve Perry But that's what it says in most single phase connection stuff.

[@theelmonk]

I think mine predates the Cliff version. It's called a safeblock.

[@why_do_you_want_to_know]

LEN = Line Earth Neutral ... the order of the connections, not the name of the item/manufacturer.

[@luppa79]

that reflector seems to be almost shorting the leads powering the LED out, when it's screwed in place... I hope there is something insulating on the other side.

[@JohnRodriguesPhotographer]

I have 6 sets of Ebay floors. Four 150 watt and two 300 watt. What got me started was my portable work flood lights kept blowing quartz halogen bulbs. After a while that gets a little expensive. Plus I was tired burning my hands on them by trying to grab for the handle and missing. So I replaced the actual heads with two 150 watt LED floods. They're a little less bright but not for medically. No complaints. I bought two more 150 watt floods because they are better then the dedicated photography CFLs. I use daylight equivalent photography lights. 150 s were just a little bit brighter than the cfl's I had but still not as bright as I wanted. So I have my game in order to 300 watt flood lights. Okay now we're going. Believe it or not if you take a 300 watt in this case flood light imported into a reflective umbrella oh, you get a nice smooth light. No hotspots no Shadows. I have two umbrella for selector set up with the 300 watt floods. I use the to 150 watt floods for fill light. On the ceiling I have to 100 watt lights in the normal ceiling fixture. when everything is turned on the room doesn't get too hot and I get great pictures without a flash. I prefer the floods to a flash or slave flashes because you don't get the problem with red eye or people blinking. I've been very satisfied with my eBay flood lights. They were fairly inexpensive and they work I can't ask for more

[@william_2610]

I'd definitely imagine the flip chip LEDs make it easier for cheapo manufacturers to do a decent job. The ones with bond wires from quality manufacturers are extremely reliable, but the crappy ones are, well, crappy. When you're doing that many bond wires on such a low cost product something's going to give

[@Tore_Lund]

AH! it's 50W of reactive power with that poor power factor. Clever Chinese.

[@christopherhauck4702]

ohh yes that's how they rate them and get away with it

[@pavelbires]

VA*

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Thanks Clive. Always good to have a look inside devices.

[@jrsc01.]

need to watch this again, fell asleep listening to Clive last night taking about this...

[@jonsnell4751]

I still use my RS Components Safebloc. Very similar to your quick connector and it states "Made in England".

[@hommie789]

I thought you were going to take the driver apart also to see what that had. Oh well still good video to see the new technology.

[@bradreee7290]

I have one of those Wera kits and it makes life so much better not having to carry 6 individual insulated screwdrivers!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Very nice light Big Clive

[@BOXTERS32]

Hi Clive i have just ordered a couple of the "higher qulity" led 5b10c..i have had poor results with the crappy early design cobs ..only lasting a few months at best, and only intermittant pir use..so not many real time hours at all..im getting fed up with having to get the ladders out and having to change the cobs..we will see if they have improved at all..going on what you have descovered with this type of cob .. we shal see if there is an improvement at all..time will tell.. cheers for the heads up on this type and sharing the info.

[@calibby]

I must say... I always think to myself when you plug that UK wall adapter in the HOPI... wow I'm glad we have the simple plugs we have in the US. Having grown up and living in Pre-War (do with that what you will) apartments and homes in Chicago, I learned at a young age that clipping the ground prong off is just what you gotta do for a lot of electronics. I appreciate that your ground/earth is absolutely required... but oooofff what a headache

[@IncertusetNescio]

If you have any search terms for finding the new flip-chip LED COBs instead of the normal bond wire based ones I'd love to know them...or a seller that explicitly sells them. Had no luck guessing so far. As for the writing on the COB, the 5 or 2 as you mentioned is probably the 10's of watts, the B I have no idea, and the 10C is probably ten chips in series.

[@bigclivedotcom]

I was hoping there was going to be a magic keyword, but there isn't yet. The main seller of these on eBay seems to be:- www.ebay.com/usr/cici-led-lighting Who have them in amongst their other listings. Hopefully they will ship the new flip chip type and not the old bond wire type.

[@IncertusetNescio]

@@bigclivedotcom From some searching I have done since then (with the aid of some helpfully high-res photos) the ones that appear to be the flip-chip type are the square COB with the raised center and dam around the phosphor as opposed to the square-ish sunken-center ones w/tabs. Have yet to see bond wires on the former, almost always on the latter (if high enough res to see). The former also alludes to no bond wire with the spacing and placement combination (on some) as the wire ones are always in a straight line packed close together. So far just detective work with guessing until you or someone disassembles one of the square boards. You buy one from your seller to take apart, or plan to take some phosphor off the one in the vid?

[@bigclivedotcom]

@@IncertusetNescio Some just arrived today.

[@jeffflowers5489]

I don't know if it still goes on, but in the USA some packaging wouldn't lead with the real power draw but what the equivalent incandescent bulb's wattage would be.

[@JasperJanssen]

A 20W led is more like a 200W incandescent than 50.

[@uzlonewolf]

@@JasperJanssen That's just them under promising and over delivering ;)

[@jpdemer5]

Handy when you're buying the things - people know how much light to expect from a 60W ro 100W incandescent, but few consumers know what to expect from a 7.5W LED (and in fact it can vary from brand to brand.) Eventually - decades from now - consumers might shop for a particular number of lumens. But for now, "equivalent to a 60W incandescent" is what the buyers want to see.

[@johnhutchinson5398]

Thanks for getting back to me in such a quick response. This info helps 100 %. Thanks

[@chrisroberts2266]

Is that a Wera VDE Kit is see? I don’t understand why such a professional company sells the horrible death screwdrivers. I have a question. Do you have any opinion or suggestions on square vs hex ferrule crimping? I’m about to buy some new Rennsteig tools

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

Chris Roberts There seems to be a campaign bad mouthing all polarity testers with screwdriver. They are extremely useful if you know what you are doing. But sure, there are lots of old and new stories about idiots using polarity testers wrong, I recall one being at least 40 years ago.

[@michaeldodge7556]

Clive I have zero interest in these lights.....BUT....I still find your videos so dam entertaining.

[@TheBlaert]

These things are horrible. Best thing is to get one and replace it with a decent-ish chip and seal the bugger up well. On another note there are proper 50w floodlights on ebay for £30 or so. Made by Luceco, possibly even made in the UK (can't remember and it's 40ft up a pole at the minute) Had it a year, switched on every night all night and no issues thus far

[@jamesrogers4674]

I use these for drywall finishing. They work good for the application.

[@ravusursi893]

At 10:12 "Not sure what the B or C stands for"... I can now reveal, it stands for Big Clive! Even Chinese LEDs pay homage to you sir!

[@cypeman8037]

They terminated the earth cable with a connector but couldn’t be bothered with a halfpenny screw. 😂😂😂

[@bigclivedotcom]

The drivers come with the flex pre-attached and that crimp on the earth wire.

[@cypeman8037]

@@bigclivedotcom Ah, I bought two of the smaller ones you reviewed a while ago, I have one under my car port, one in my wood store. Neither had the earth wire connected as you pointed out, so some new cable and a simple connector to the post that holds the bacofoil reflector cured that. Been working via a PIR , although not hard, for quite a while.

[@jimmylove7760]

Watching this waiting for 3x 50w RGB with same casing to arrive. I will defo do a quick disection and check em inside. Couldnt resist as they where 12 € each.

[@SuperBoobaloo]

Clive: Would you consider reviewing a name-brand floodlight? The Osram ones (LEDVANCE) seem to be really good value.

[@darrinswanson]

Hahaha the power supply has the wire colors as brown and brue. Thumbs up for the excellent Engrish!

[@amojak]

saw an 80W cree one advertised the other day. it's specs say it draws 275ma at 12V :D :D

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

It might as well not be 50W, because I doubt that you could maintain 80-85C substrate temperature at 50W with that case unless Ta is reliably frigid. To put this in perspective, the bonded-fin sinks I use for base-down passive operation have a base area of about 125x250mm, with 24 50mm tall fins. That's marginal for 60W at 50-55C. Vertical orientation helps a lot, but with dinky cast fins, it doesn't mean much.

[@Blox117]

i have one and after 8 hours its still cool enough to touch

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

Forgive me for being doubtful, but "the heat sink is cool" tends to wind up being an indicator that input power is lower than expected or there's a significant thermal resistance between the heat source and the sink itself. For example, the latter is why cheap fake SSR's tend to run surprisingly cool. In this specific case though, I'm assuming that yours is also operating at 20W and that "cool enough to touch" is approximately the same as saying "not too hot to touch". That's plausible. If those assumptions are wrong and it's actually dissipating 50W with e.g. 30C temp rise in still air, then I'm going to revert to being doubtful.

[@Blox117]

@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC indeed mine was also not at the advertised 50 watts, for which I will forever be irritated. its closer to 30 watts measured. by cool enough to touch, I do in fact mean you can put your hand on it without getting burned, but it still feels significantly hot. but I was curious on why you seem to think that this heatsink, which is basically a large chunk of aluminum, couldnt support a 50 watt LED? especially since LEDs and their power supply are not 100% inefficient there will always be less than 50 watts of heat generated. have you experience in using these LED chassis and heat dissipation was too low? I know that CPUs consume much more power than these LEDs but have no trouble getting rid of heat. that could be due to the radiator type cpu coolers though.

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

My assertion is just intuition based on my perception of its size and the assumption that substrate temperature should be kept below about 80-85C at some specified Ta at or above 50C. I don't have one and have not made measurements or in-depth calculations for one. I usually make the approximate assumption that Pthermal=Pelectrical*0.8 for calculations. I'm neglecting the losses in the driver, but since it's mounted to the same sink, that doesn't exactly counter my doubt. The description of the heat sinks I use at 60W was given for the sake of geometric comparison. Those have much more cooling area and are still marginal in their application. Your latter point is a good case for demonstration. While CPU and LED cooling are both more challenging than say a simple transistor due to their lower allowable junction temperatures, CPU cooling is a lot less of a challenge than LED cooling for a couple reasons. First, clean air means you have the advantage of being able to use forced-air cooling which is a huge advantage. Second, the ambient air temperature is going to be somewhere in the ballpark of 30C. While it's certainly possible to find a lighting application where Ta is constrained and fans are allowable, they are often not (specifically in my usage they aren't). In bay lighting applications, Ta can be above 60-65C, and inacessibility or insects or moisture may make fans a liability. Surface area aside, the simple change from forced to natural convection tends to mean that the heat sink will become less "dense" -- that is to say that it will have fewer, larger fins with more space between them. Also, spreading the heat from a point load limits the benefit of an arbitrarily large passive sink. This is all made worse by the fact that natural convection benefits from having a large temperature difference between Tambient and Tsink -- something which is often unaffordable if Tsink has to stay relatively low. You can dump 60W into a CPU cooler that fits in the palm of your hand, but a passive sink that's able to match the same base temperature at that power input will be huge. Disregarding orientation, contact area, and temperature rise for a moment, consider the admittedly strained comparison of nominal figures: A 120mm single-fan cpu cooler with nominal 0.1 K/W thermal resistance: www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214064 This 430mm wide, 33mm tall extrusion profile with a 360mm length with natural convection would still have more than twice the thermal resistance (~0.23 K/W). That's a 17" x 1.3" x 14" heat sink. Given that this data assumes uniform heating and a 75C temp rise, that's optimistic! www.shopaavid.com/Product/63340-full Yes, I have a feeling that I'm far more conservative than most about keeping Tj within SOA at all times, and I accept that an individual can choose to accept any other range of operating points for their applications. Still, for risks to be accepted, they must first be acknowledged. Sorry for the giant reply.

[@adamdnewman]

Always enjoy a Entertaining Clive video

[@SlyPearTree]

I suspect speed of the assembly line might be the reason the ground is not connected, that and poor or nonexistant QC. Those things are cheap for a reason.

[@puckcat22679]

Most small appliances in China aren't grounded, either. The standard wall outlet is a 2-pin socket. So they're probably not used to screwing that on for their own stuff

[@mikecowen6507]

@@puckcat22679 They seem to be screwing off for our stuff...

[@olsmokey]

Hey Clive I reckon these lamps may as well do without the reflectors. They really don't add much to the spread of light.

[@Psi105]

Both my Yuji 50W leds died from the same gold bond wires burning up. I was running them at 50W. Next ones i get i think i'll run them at 40W.

[@davidcoghill8612]

I think the earth wire is left unconnected, because the people assembling these are paid per light, saving a few seconds is worth it for them if the product is getting out of the door.

[@tomschmidt381]

I've just begun watching the video, my money is it will be no where near 50W. We will see if I'm proved wrong. Posting at the 1:11 minute mark. :) Several years ago I redid a bunch of our outside lights with 12V 10W eBay floodlights. Actual DC power was closer to 8W. Several of the LED modules failed over time. As Clive reported broken bond wires, they tend to flicker when first turned on. Replaced then with better LED modules and been working fine for several years.

[@evilutionltd]

Uk supplier my bum. These Chinese companies really piss me off doing this. Claiming to be Uk based but usually either send directly from China or send the item from China to a Uk reseller who then forward it on which takes longer. The Uk part of the supplier might keep a few things in stock but my luck usually involves an excessive wait. I’m really impatient and have been spoiled by Amazon Prime delivery so I purposely don’t buy from Chinese suppliers for most things yet they still manage to screw me over. As for the shitty ratings for Chinese products, on LED lights, they claim it’s the same output as a similarly rated halogen light. More bullshit arse covering.

[@stepheneyles2198]

That practice also really annoys me. If I'm suspicious about their claim, I usually add the comment to my order warning them: "If this item is being sent from CHINA I will give NEUTRAL or NEGATIVE feedback" - on one occasion I had a seller say that "we've no more stock", probably realised what's going on. Another annoying thing; eBay doesn't have a complaint channel for such mis-located items - they seem to thrive on it and don't care as they've got your money long before you can do a n y t h i n g about it...

[@evilutionltd]

@@stepheneyles2198 I was lucky with 1 expensive item I bought. The seller claimed it was UK stock but then was sent from China. However, when it arrived, it wasn't correct so I raised a complaint. eBay gave me a full refund and said that I didn't need to return the item because I shouldn't be expected to send to China if the item should have been sent from the UK. The seller was livid and sent me a PayPal request every week for months.

[@natejgee]

I find that the delivery ETA speaks volumes. A month for delivery from a UK seller is usually indicative of such a practise. I might start doing what Stephen does.

[@two_tier_gary_rumain]

I bought a bunch of these lights at auction off eBay last year. There were at least 6 vendors in similar locations (with similar names that lead me believe that they were really all the same). I started following them and was checking every other day for new items. They were both selling and auctioning items and were listing items as either from China or supplied locally. I was bidding on the auction items that claimed to be local. The prices were a lot higher but I soon worked out that not all auction items were selling well. So I'd drop out of an auction if the price got higher than the limit I estimated and look for a new one to bid on. It was only the first auction I'd won where I paid more than I thought it was worth. All the others were more reasonable once I worked out how best to go about dealing with these auctions. So it took a while to get all the lights I wanted. All the lights arrived within 2 or 3 days. Which implied that they were being delivered from local warehouses. Unfortunately, there was nothing on the boxes to indicate much of anything. As near as I could work out, the local warehouses are used to supply larger items that are more expensive to ship or popular items that can be shipped faster locally. Small, cheap items are invariably shipped from China ("Small packet by air" via China Post) because it's dirt cheap. There are also the shonks that ship via Laos, Malaysia, Singapore etc. but I've learnt to avoid those because of the lengthy shipping times.

[@cup_and_cone]

@@natejgee - You are dead right. People should go by the estimated delivery dates, order by that, and hold sellers accountable to those dates. Even "domestic" sellers are usually Chinese sellers using a third-party domestic fulfilment center that they send product to and have mailed to buyers on their behalf. At the end of the day, it's all made in the Far East, so I do not necessarily see an advantage where it comes from as long as the delivery date is what's promised.

[@RMJ1984]

You can tell from Clive's hands that he's been slacking on the job! :P he used to have really rugged hands! :)

[@martinpickard6043]

Not as many elastoplast/band aids as previous vlogs. Ahhh the pampered life of a celeb KZbinr. Probably just back from the nail salon 😂🤣😂🤣

[@ahettinger525]

Cliff really should sponsor you.

[@jio-lito]

I don’t even know why I am watching this video, but interestingly enough..... I am entertained.. 🧐🤔

[@keithjackson1180]

I would think that the little post looking thing near where the wires come in would be tapped to attach the earth ground wire.

[@JasperJanssen]

If you’d watched the whole video... it is.

[@mikecowen6507]

@@JasperJanssen Blasphemy! Watch an *entire* video before commenting? Never! Somebody else might post "first", first.

[@keithjackson1180]

@@JasperJanssen I thought that I did. Must have stopped alittle early.

[@JohnAudioTech]

The tiny rectangular LED chips they use in those COBs look to be no more than 100ma, so they are driving the heck out of them at their stated power rating.

[@TinkerLynx]

They are running them at 100ma? 600ma input 6 strings of 10 diodes.

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

Blake Thomas It's 5 strings of 10. 50 LEDs, each driven around half a Watt but advertised as 1 W each.

[@TinkerLynx]

@@johnfrancisdoe1563 Seams I miss herd. So ya 120ma each. The case says 50w, but they used a 20w driver, likely because the case isn't a good enough heatsink for 50w I have some 70w driver driver-less units (60hz here so the flicker isn't bad) and I've bean using forced air cooling.

[@jaapaap123]

Your vids are zen for techs.

[@tornado_smith]

"Well that's interesting". Will have to take your word for it Clive, as though I love your vids, I haven't the faintest idea what you are talking about.

[@jr5234]

I bought one of these and after several hours of use the inside of the glass appeared to have condensation on it. It wasn't water; I think it might have been silicone oil? Not sure what exactly it was coming from. Might have been the potting silicone in the COB. Strange but it only happened once, I guess it evaporated after the first day.

[@Kc12v140]

I'd be willing to bet it's off gassing of some residual oils and plastics mixed into the pot metal housing. Those things are made from the cheapest scrap they can throw in a furnace.

[@MRMIdAS2k]

Given what I've seen on this channel, the fact it's grounded amazed me.

[@MRMIdAS2k]

or not, you've just hacked it open.

[@arfyness]

What are the distinguishing features of these "flip chips" you're talking about?

[@pavlitt355]

This is almost identical to a unit I bought about 5yrs ago. Why don't they earth? Because it saves them time to manufacture and trading standards is dead in the UK. Jobs to do when buying one of these: 1) Put decent amount of thermal compound on back of LED module (not too much but just enough to squeeze out the sides), 2) Connect the earth, 3) Replace outer bolts and any other shiny outer metal fixings with stainless steel equivalents, 4) Apply thin layer of silicone grease where glass gasket (hopefully) is. As good as new.

[@Mindziuzu]

I bought similar ones a couple years back. Yeah the voltage ain’t true and stuff, but it’s cheap and works fine, a lot of light and has been working fine for a couple of years.

[@reddragon27284]

Lidl are selling one for £12 that is 25w and has a PIR. It looks like tearing it down would be a one way journey and I need to use the one I have but if it ever dies (outside of its 3 year warranty) I will take it apart or send it in...

[@YGBHawk]

Please do the UV version of this light!

[@Slikx666]

And Clive has teleported back to the Isle of Man...

[@caseysmith2445]

11:25 you can see the + output of the driver says Brue and the - side says Brown. That whole driver box seems odd.

[@TheDefpom]

There is a dedicated earth post near that wire... pity they didn’t put the screw in.

[@hrnekbezucha]

I'll be setting up a new bench soon and I'd like this kind of flood lights, is there a way to tell whether they're with the smoothed drivers or not? Because the listings never mention it

[@Anvilshock]

If the HOPI shows a power of ~25 W, is that true power or apparent? Because of it is true, and the PF is ~.5, I'd be tempted to consider 50 W as not dishonest after all. Right?

[@thehappylittlefoxakabenji8154]

yes it is very handy foxy has one ! got mine years ago probably from RS !

[@scottmarshall6766]

I wonder if they have problems with leakage current from the LED - or a leakage fault in the driver? Maybe that's why they don't ground the frames? Could just be Chinese piece work, faster to not connect and saves a screw also - for every 8 (or so) lights they get a free set of screws.

[@mikecowen6507]

For every screw they save, we get one!

[@weerobot]

HOPI with the Back to The Future Computer Display...lol....Is Cool...

[@weeardguy]

Haha, darn, this is even an expensive and 'fancy' version of such a floodlight. I bought 8 defective ones (different build-quality and different defects as well) for a bargain. 3 of them were like the ones you have Clive. BUT, the front is not glass, but plastic. There is no driver inside, but one of those driverless LEDchips, which has failed in all of them. In the first I opened, it's because the LED just isn't even mounted flush to the case: there is about 2 millimeters between LED and case, as the screws were too long to push the LED down. The others suffer from too much or no heat-sinking compound. It says 50 Watt on the housing. I ordered a 25 and 50 Watt white LED. With the 50 Watt LED properly mounted with compound and the right screws and underrunning it at 40 Watt from a MeanWell driver, I quickly aborted a testrun as the yellow surface of the LED quickly reached 85 degrees and was steadily climbing... The case was not too warm to touch... The bracket to mount the thing is just soo flimsy one would not even want to mount it with a driver inside, as it will likely fold under the weight.

[@Species1571]

The guy who crimped the ring on that earth wire could have stayed at home that day.

[@holopekochan]

Quick summary by AI The video script discusses the purchase of a cheap LED floodlight from eBay and examines its components and performance. Highlights 💡 The floodlight is advertised as a 50W LED, but it only draws 23W, suggesting a 20W driver may be used. 💡 The power factor is low at 0.563, indicating poor efficiency. 💡 The LED chips in the floodlight are well-matched in intensity. 💡 The reflector and construction of the floodlight are flimsy. 💡 The presence of heat sink compound suggests the LED may be a cost-effective option. 💡 The flexibility of the power cord is limited, but it can be spliced for better use. 💡 The floodlight is useful for its components, even if it doesn’t meet the advertised specifications. Key Insights 🔍 The discrepancy between the advertised wattage and the actual power consumption raises questions about the quality and accuracy of the floodlight. 🔍 The low power factor indicates poor energy efficiency and may result in higher electricity costs. 🔍 The well-matched LED chips suggest good quality control during manufacturing, which can contribute to consistent lighting performance. 🔍 The flimsy construction and lack of proper grounding indicate potential durability and safety concerns. 🔍 The presence of heat sink compound suggests that the LED floodlight may be a cost-effective option for certain applications, despite its shortcomings. 🔍 The limited flexibility of the power cord may require additional modifications for optimal use. 🔍 While the floodlight may not meet the advertised specifications, it still provides useful components for other projects or repairs.

[@jeremyturner2873]

The driver output is labelled "Brown-" and "Brue+" but the wires are red and black, and opposite polarity. Quality. I wonder if the live and neutral are backwards as well?

[@RK-kn1ud]

No comments mentioning the "Brue" wire color code on the LED driver (10:48)...I am disappointed.

[@StarmanDX]

Do you ever return items or report misleading items on eBay? I know returning it probably isn't worth the time and hassle if it's so cheap but I'm curious

[@ManWithBeard1990]

Honestly I was expecting it to be 10 watts like most of them are. So 20ish is a nice surprise. I reckon the housing could take 50 watts though, if it's as big as it looks from here. Since not all of that is going to be converted into heat.

[@crazygeorgelincoln]

For a moment I thought it was going down the unboxing route. I'd like to put the glass on upside down and remove the foil ,so it illuminates the wattage it isn't .

[@matakaw4287]

Why on Earth did they not earth it to Earth haha great video, always an instant like.

[@fidelcatsro6948]

Population control measure..

[@j-man6001]

They know how to beat UL listings lol

[@topytuser]

Is there a way to stop the refreshing of the led ?

[@MariaEngstrom]

I'm surprised they used 4 screws to attach the reflector when 2 would have sufficed.

[@ghost_knight_001]

Hhhmm 20 watt driver would it work in the 20 watt led by chance

[@ADR69]

It's cheap eBay led lamp season!! Fuck yeah

[@johnhutchinson5398]

Got a question. I noticed during some of your led builds that you have large bags of hi intensity leds. I’ve looked and tried to find a place to buy in bulk but with no success. Would you mind sharing where you get yours so I can get my hands on some white and red leds for a grow light project I’ve started? Thanks.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Search on ebay for 1000pcs of the LED you want. For instance 1000pcs 5mm red led

[@actuallyusingmyrealnameher5061]

Very illuminating as usual Clive :-)

[@adrongarretson6195]

When pulling a wire back like that if you take a lighter and warm the sheets up a little bit you can pull it back it'll be much more pliable and it won't be so strenuous on the cable

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

Adron Garretson But the heat will stress the PCB to be tested. Cable is more expendable in case of failure.

[@mikecowen6507]

@@johnfrancisdoe1563 And pulling directly against the solder pads *doesn't* stress anything??

[@Blox117]

instructions unclear, foreskin now damaged

[@Blox117]

@@mikecowen6507 lol, but try reading Adron's comment with a dirty mind :)

[@mikecowen6507]

@@Blox117 Who says I didn't get it? I just didn't want it to turn into a Harlequin romance. 😈

[@gordonlawrence4749]

Is a 50W LED floodlight the default output setting for every factory in Shenzen? There seems to be a never ending list of variations on a theme. Pity none of them seem to be reliable.