Aoyue 968 Hot Air Unit Repair

[@davidanderson5203]

Triac on the board also blew along with fuse resistor, when the element failed on mine. Replaced all three working fine since.

[@diegogarciamedina6363]

Hi, do you think is it better the diaphragm system or brushless air pump?

[@dherrendoerfer]

I don't have a unit with the brushless air pump - so I can't really tell

[@diegogarciamedina6363]

Hi, the air flow control is performed by means of a potentiometer and triac or a pneumatic valve? thanks

[@dherrendoerfer]

Pneumatic valve.

[@MrMarekmiskiewicz]

Hi. Do you konw how is the voltage on this pump i this station ?

[@darattaqwa]

Hi thank you for this video, i have AOYUE 852A+ hot air station, the internal fuse blew, i replaced the fuse on the back of the unit then the unit was only blowing cold air, i replaced the heating element (it was exactly like your old one in the video but mines has a black rectangular component (thermistor?), the replacement heating element did not come with thermistor so i installed it as it was, but the unit is still blowing cold air, i opened the unit to check for anything obvious, i have the same large resistor like your one, what does this resistor do, what are symptoms of its failure? i really hope you can help, i'm really struggling without hot air station

[@dherrendoerfer]

I don't remember what the resistor does - sorry. But without the probe installed the heater will not function. I had a cable break to mine and the heater did not turn on then.

[@darattaqwa]

@@dherrendoerfer thanks for replying, appreciate it

[@darattaqwa]

@@dherrendoerfer just wanted to say thank you for the video, you helped me repair my hot air station, just by replacing that large 1ohm resistor

[@MkmeOrg]

Nice. Glad you got er fixed up

[@musik1494]

Hallo, Du sagst zwar wie viel Ohm der Sicherungswiderstand hat 1.2Ohm ABER das wichtigste lässt Du weg...wie viel Watt hat dieser Widerstand? Wo hast Du ihn her? Hat es einen Grund dass Du kein Heizelement vom Hersteller genommen hast? Meine hat einfach den Geist aufgegeben es kommt nur noch kalte Luft und die Temperaturanzeige zeigt über 500° an, ich vermute der Temperaturfühler ist kaputt... Grüße

[@dherrendoerfer]

Alle Bauteile sind original vom Hersteller gewesen - das Heizelement ist nur eine andere Bauform wie das Original. Der Widerstand ist ein Sicherungswiderstand mit ca 5-10W. Der Wert ist nur wichtig wenn man kein Original bekommt. Die Bauteile waren damals von Wiltec. Ich habe seither noch 2x die Heizelemente tauschen muessen, Der neue Widerstand hat gehalten.

[@musik1494]

@@dherrendoerfer schön dass du antwortest👍 dann suche ich Mal nach Wiltec...in welchem Zeitraum und wie oft hast Du denn das Teil genutzt? Mir ist der Wiederstand leider beim Messen an einen der Steckkontakte durchgebrannt, eigene Dummheit 😉 der Heizdraht ist noch intakt, ich schätze Mal der Temperaturfühler ist der Grund...

[@dherrendoerfer]

Das Video ist 7 Jahre her - ich Benutze die Station immer noch, es wird aber immer schwieriger fuer diesen Typ Loetspitzen und Heizelemente zu bekommen - die Temperaturfuehler sind K-Type, da brechen oft die Kabel nach einiger Zeit. Ich hab die Station viel in Benutzung, in letzter Zeit mehr die Loetstation als die Rework/Heissluft Einheit. Ich wuerde sagen dass die Heizelemente locker 200-400 Stunden halten, die Loeteinheit vielleicht etwas weniger.

[@musik1494]

@@dherrendoerfer hey danke für deine Antwort, ich habe im Netz ein Ersatz Heizelement für 6€ gefunden, es hat 700W und kommt aus China (wen wunderts😁) passen die 700W? Ich ärgere mich echt mehr über den zerschossenen Widerstand 🤦🏻‍♂️Ich finde die Preispolitik für Ersatzteile echt nicht nachvollziehbar für einen einfachen Widerstand zahlt man fast genauso viel wie für so ein Heizelement....auf der Seite gabs sogar eine komplette Station für rund 55€ (allerdings ohne Lötkolben, nur rework)

[@911asya2]

Hello: What is the integrated code of the 20-pin Microcontrollers on the Class 952 digital card (U1 and U2)? The IC circuit is burned and I do not know the code. Thanks.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Hi, I don't know the types, but I think it may not help to know them since they may come pre-programmed from Aoyue. I currently need my station on a daily basis, so I don't have plans to take it apart unless it develops a fault. The controllers used to be available as spare parts from Aoyue, but I can't find any on a quick search on the internet. Cheers, Dirk

[@911asya2]

@@dherrendoerfer Hello there: Thanks for your interest

[@Harry-is6vn]

I have duratech ts1570 hot air soldering station. It only produces warm air. How do I fix that please?

[@Maik_cnc_ru]

to measure the temperature at a distance at which to solder

[@bolon8200]

how long did you have it?

[@dherrendoerfer]

I've had mine for at least 8 years now, I'm on the 3rd tip, and gone through a bag of filters. This thing just keeps on going.

[@Pepe-ry8pm]

Hi. I have the same problem with my model 968. I bought the resistance but in the previous one (same as yours) has four wires. How did you connect those four cables? Many thanks

[@dherrendoerfer]

In general you need to figure out which wires are for the sensor and the heater. If yours came different, you may need to re-use the old sensor.

[@Pepe-ry8pm]

Thank you for your reply. I had forgotten the sensor. Sorry

[@dherrendoerfer]

No problemo !

[@lycanlycans7548]

I have that one to but I wouldn't buy it again ! If you ask why ? Because the hot air heats up but not enough it loses the temperature the iron solder becomes never the temperature that is needed if I set the iron solder to a temperature for example 350 degrees for station flashes that the temperature has been reached but I can not melt the solder properly! the soldering iron is exchanged for a new one but the same problem! I will buy a hakko air and soldering station or Weller or ersa but I don't know what is the best I must research . Thanks for the video ! Best regards,

[@dherrendoerfer]

Most professional soldering stations for professional use do not come calibrated (unless they say so). They are set up so the setting you are choosing will never over-shoot during the heating process. You can either set it yourself using different types of solder with a bit of experimentation, a calibration sensor, or a temp-sensor with a k-type probe.

[@lycanlycans7548]

@@dherrendoerfer I tried all settings! it does not work ! Thanks for your help.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Did you try using the calibration potentiometer below the temp select knob ? That's where I calibrate my tips. (Be very careful turning this - you can kill the thermo element really quickly)

[@nor4277]

Was this a low use machine,or a high use machine

[@dherrendoerfer]

It needs to push its weight, but it does get a break now and then.

[@nor4277]

Thanks for the info

[@jeffmee763]

Use a hakko 191 on the soldering pen my one was reading 350c it was 460 Jeff.

[@dherrendoerfer]

That's far off - my unit has a calibration pot under the temp selector - but I doubt it will offset that far.

[@jeffmee763]

YES I got to look for calibration pot but may be the pen element thanks Jeff.

[@superiorbeing95]

These are yucky, fish tank pump.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Yucky, yes - fish tank pump, no. It's a dual-membrane 4-valve evacuation pump.