Applying Tru-Oil to Warmoth Roasted Flame Maple Neck // Fender Partscaster Update #2

In this video, I applied thin coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil and Gun Stock Wax to my Warmoth High Grade Flame Maple (roasted) guitar neck. It turned out great!
Tru Oil link: amzn.to/3tstZse
Gun stock wax link: amzn.to/3Txy0Gw

[@Mojoman57]

Beautiful. It's like it went from standard to high definition.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

That's a great way to describe it! Thanks!

[@Mojoman57]

@@corygraysen509 Oh, snap, I just hacked your gfs insta too! Thanks for the tip!

[@Bowbie54]

Good to see some people using tru-oil on the fret boards, thanks.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yeah, I have no problem with it. I also used it on my most recent build, the '78 Frankenstat (latest video).

[@OnTheFritz602]

Stunning, now I know exactly what I'm going to do when getting a roasted maple neck!

[@edwardprete]

Beautiful neck. I just recently did a Strat neck with about 5 coats boiled linseed oil, topped with three of tru oil, and the results are incredible. This was on a neck with no depth to begin. Great combo. What’s interested is baked maple isn’t supposed to absorb as much. Your results are great! Beautiful build.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks for watching! I agree, any of these oiled treatments will definitely enhance whatever amount of grain is seen, or bring out some grain that is unseen.

[@TomGlander]

Looks beautiful. I've started using boiled linseed oil. Any oil that polymerizes is good. And the satin smooth neck is so smooth. Looking GREAT!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks for the comment!

[@garloran]

I think Tru Oil has boiled linseed oil as one of its ingredients which may be why it works so well

[@nathankaufman4131]

Just gorgeous. I bet that feels like absolute velvet.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks! It really does!! It’s one of the best necks I’ve played!

[@acellett]

I have the same neck. Went through the same process with adding the Tru Oil. Beautiful result for the grain. After letting sit for 2 weeks, I am ready to finish, but It still is not quite as "slick" as I would like. Before I mess things up, will the BC gun stock wax actually make the surface "slicker"? Or do you have any finishing tips that might get a result I am looking for?? Rubbing compounds and a swirl remover?? Thanks for any input

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yes, absolutely use the Gunstock Wax. It's a game changer! The difference is night and day in terms of overall "slickness" after you rub on the gunstock wax!!

[@acellett]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 thank you for the response

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@acellett My pleasure! Good luck with your project!

[@acellett]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Last question and I am sorry to bother you. When you added the wax, did the neck keep that beautiful luster and 3D look or does it "matte" it down? When you applied the wax, did you wipe on/wipe of quickly, or let sit 10 minutes or so before buffing? I have seen both online?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@acellett The wax doesn't have a huge impact on the luster...I don't believe. If anything, it might dull it down just ever-so-slightly. But, I simply rub a small dab on, wipe it around really well, then take another dry rag and wipe off any excess immediately. I don't wait...and it seems to dry almost instantly.

[@red240red2]

Just absolutely gorgeous. I could just imagine how buttery the neck feel s in the hand

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

It absolutely plays silky smooth. I have since sent the guitar to Sweetwater for a full PLEK service and setup...and it blows me away every time I pick it up.

[@brucecaldwell6701]

I've got my eye on a beautiful roasted flame maple Warmoth tele neck in their showcase & was thinking of doing the same thing, which is how I found this vid & glad I did. I've always used tung oil on my maple necks with nice results. That sir, is a gorgeous neck!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks Bruce! Good luck with your project. :D

[@qua7771]

I cant see why there would be haters. The chatoyance of the flame really pops and it shouldn't effect the feel much. I have a similar neck for a future build, and am considering doing the same to make cleaning easier.

[@KaosII1968]

How was the fret job from Warmoth..??? I have bought 4 very expensive necks from them and all but one needed extensive fret work. To be fair they don't advertise that they are leveled or anything but for 400 you would I would expect better. But so far, leveled or not, I have not found more beautiful or more customizable necks.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

My experience has been similar with 3-4 necks that I’ve purchased. They are “playable” out of the box but they definitely would benefit from a full fret dressing and polish. I actually ended up having this guitar PLEK’d and it made a HUGE difference afterwards.

[@alexbasson]

The folks at Warmoth have actually talked about why they intentionally don't do a full fret level before they ship their necks. It's because they know that after the guitar is assembled under tension from the strings, the neck will settle a bit, which would make the fret leveling off. They recommend that you assemble the guitar first, put it under tension, and play it for a while *before* taking it in for a full fret leveling job.

[@Dogsrule777]

At first I was like “wait! Noo!” :) ...but that is gorgeous man! It’s like if you’re going to go with the beautiful flame maple you kinda gotta give it a little one coat shine to do it justice. That’s really beautiful!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks man! I agree...it was a little scary at first but the result was well worth it. Thanks for watching.

[@butteredbiskit3497]

I'd put a few coats on the front of the peg head. Its looks great with a shine.

[@craiglizt8074]

Wow! That made a huge difference! Convinced me to do this for sure.

[@TheDario42]

Interesting video .. but the tru oil on the fretboard maintains its brightness after playing or the guitar strings wear the treated surface?

[@JamieTyson]

I've never been overcome by lust for someone's guitar neck before...hahahahah. Awesome work, nice neck!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Great comment!!! LOL. Thanks for watching! Just keep an eye on the Warmoth showcase. That's how I found this one a few years back.

[@dayla8634]

How is the neck looking now? What kind of maintenance have you done? The neck looks awesome!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Still looks and feels the same! I haven't needed to do any maintenance yet.

[@dayla8634]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Nice! Thinking of doing this to my warmoth roasted maple neck.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@dayla8634 Cool! Does it have a decent grain pattern...flame or birdseye?

[@dayla8634]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Nah. Just a little protection from my grimy hands. That's why I was asking how it's held up.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@dayla8634 Cool. Well, this should do the trick. You can periodically wipe it down and reapply the gun stock wax. It won't hurt anything, and keep it feeling "new".

[@levitescruz]

Sir can I just apply it directly on the guitar neck without sanding ? Will give the dark effect still? Its a birds eye maple neck but its too light in my eyes. I want it a bit dark. Thanks

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

It depends on whether or not the neck already has an existing finish or sealer on it. If it has a sealer/lacquer finish already on it, then I would not do it.

[@michael_caz_nyc]

Did you Sand It 1st? What was the Prep ( before adding the Tru Oil ). I am about to try-this, and your's came out Gorgeous. Please let me know if you can?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Hello Michael. No, I did not sand it nor did I do any type of prep work first. I literally took the neck out of the box (new) and applied the oil. I hope this helps.

[@michael_caz_nyc]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks so much Brian. Your neck looks Phenomenal. I'm about to do my Brand New sterling sting ray bass. Appreciate the info. oNe LovE from NYC

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@michael_caz_nyc Awesome! I hope it turns out well for you! Cheers!

[@michelebenini8125]

Amazing neck Brian! 👍🏻 good job!👏🏻👏🏻

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thank you so much!

[@shable1436]

Whats the word we are looking for chaytle or something? When the grains pop in a 3d effect

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Chatoyancy!

[@jdb2722]

Looks great man! Going to be getting one of my own soon in the mail and will oil it up first thing!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Awesome!!!

[@geraldfrieberg7921]

I like to wipe the neck with Japan drier first, then apply the Tru Oil immediately to both the back of the neck and fingerboard (on maple Tele). Thanks for the great video. Warmoth makes incredible necks of remarkable quality.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks for the tip! I agree, Warmoth makes incredible necks. This one has easily transformed my Partscaster into my #1 guitar!!!

[@hammer5475]

That turned out amazing! Do you prefer the grain to go a certain direction on the headstock and did the oil effect the feel of the neck?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thank you so much! Actually the oil in combination with the gun stock wax actually improved the overall feel of the neck! Of course, it's something that has to be maintained (but not that often). I like the grain to be horizontal...as seen here, parallel with the frets. But that's just a personal preference! ;) Thanks for watching.

[@ryanf33]

Hi Brian looks beautiful! I have a similar roasted flame maple on order with Warmoth and I’m curious about using tru oil too once I get the neck. Did you sand the neck prior to application? Have you found yourself needing to reapply the tru oil? I don’t have any experience with it.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Hello Ryan. I did not sand prior to applying the oil. The neck was super smooth to begin with so I didn't feel like sanding it was necessary. So far I have not needed to re-apply the oil and I play this guitar fairly often. It still looks and feels great. Good luck with your project.

[@AustinDonovanMurray]

Beautiful work. I see that Birchwood Casey also offers Genuine Oil as well as Tru-Oil and the only difference I can see between the two products is that their Genuine Oil is advertised as a traditional Satin Finish. So I suppose if I want to keep the satin feel of my new roasted flame maple neck I could just use a few coats of the Genuine Oil instead of using the Tru-Oil and then having to use 0000 steel wool to reduce the gloss. Do you think I am on the right track here and do you know anything else about the differences between the Birchwood Genuine Oil vs. Birchwood Tru Oil? Thanks.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Oh wow! I didn't know they made the "Genuine Oil" product! I will have to look into this for myself because I really don't like to have a glossy finish...I always keep mine at a satin finish level so that might be a really good option! Thanks!

[@jamesrobinson529]

IT'S ALIVE!!!

[@WaffleStar28]

Nice work! look awsome. Got one question, how do you put a decal after oil? Or you just dont? Is it only with lacquer?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks! I have personally never tried to apply a decal over/under an oil finish. It might be worth experimenting if you have any extra decals or piece of wood lying around. This might be a good question for "The Gear Page" forum???

[@afterstars]

Could you still apply a headstock decal over the oil finish or is it more ideal to apply the decal before the oil?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I'm not totally sure. There might be a compatibility issue with the ink on the waterslide and anything that is rubbed across it (like the Tru Oil). Maybe as long as the decal was sprayed with lacquer first to seal it (while it's on the backing paper), then it would be ok.

[@juliAnarchist]

Oh man that looks phenomenal!!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks!

[@Firehawk-205]

Brian: OMG, That neck is killer! I was completely glued to your video and now want the Tru-Oil for my guitars (Charvel San Dimas) Thank You soo much for taking the time to show/explain how to apply. Could you please tell us some features of your neck/specs? You got me thinking my Charvel would just look sick with something as beautiful as yours.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks for watching and "liking" the video, it's very much appreciated! I love Charvel guitars too :) This particular neck was in the showcase on Warmoth's website. Spec-wise, it's vintage/modern construction made with roasted "very high grade" flame maple (their term), standard thin carve, 1-11/16" nut, 10"-16" compound radius, stainless 6150 frets, 22 frets, Graphtech nut, and no stock finish. Just keep in mind that Charvel bodies require a neck heel width of 2-1/4", whereas a standard Strat neck like this is 2-3/16" so it would not work. I'm not sure if Warmoth even offers a 2-1/4" heel/neck for Charvels...but Musikraft has this option. Good luck!!!!

[@Firehawk-205]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Bri: Thanks too much for the info. Nothing like a unfinished oiled Charvel SD neck or Jackson bolt-on "pointy neck". . . .. I had back in the day the 9th Jackson bolt-on (1986) #1010=Gun Metal Gray w/Kahler Pro 2.Im now playing a sexy MIM Charvel SD Snow White fixed bridge w/gold HDWR. A killer roasted maple neck will just add frosting to the cake.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@Firehawk-205 Oh wow...the 9th Jackson!!?? I bet that was an awesome guitar!! Yeah, I agree, if you mounted a roasted flame maple neck on the Charvel, it would look killer! Definitely check out the "Charvel" options on Musikraft's website. I think it will be the best way to go! In order for it to look right, you will want the fretboard that has the squared off corners at the 22nd fret. Not the rounded fretboard like this Strat neck. That's another major difference, and the reason why I would suggest calling Musikraft for something like this. Keep me posted!!!

[@efsglass]

So did you apply oil without doing anything else? Or did you sand the neck first?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

efsglass correct. The finish is already smooth without needing to do anything else. I just wiped the oil on the existing natural finish.

[@MDLinzee]

I add mineral spirits to thin Tru Oil for better flow, fast-curing thin coats. I apply it with coffee filter which requires only a few drops. Playability is superb and close to or better than naked. Approach should work well to 100% coverage on roasted maple fretbd. When doing rosewood board neck, I shoot headstock / heel with tinted nitro and fade spray at start of playing surface on back, sand lightly, and apply Tru oil to back of neck only.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

That sounds like a very effective method! Thanks for sharing!

[@imannonymous7707]

Ya it looks awesome and all that....its just my own preference tho....I like the idea of a finish free guitar tho...that roasted maple is already gorgeous . But it's the tone that I'm interested in most... that's why john lennon sanded all the finish off of his casino.... it's stunning tho yer right

[@HuWhiteNat]

Other companies do require finish on roasted necks for warranty. It’s definitely better to put a few light coats on. 0000 steel wool in between. You can get the wax from Birchwood Casey to do a final protective sheen and buff it smooth.

[@letz_getschwifty9785]

Just be careful with steel wool on maple, it's easy to make the wood look filthy

[@HuWhiteNat]

@@letz_getschwifty9785 Only after the first couple coats so the wool isn’t touching the raw wood. I’ve done at least a half dozen or more with excellent results.

[@letz_getschwifty9785]

@@HuWhiteNat Ah fair! I've learned the hard way so only why I mentioned, but otherwise you're completely right ✌️

[@a.soffer5911]

@@letz_getschwifty9785 many thanks for the tip. I have an unfinished roasted flame maple neck from warmoth and would like to do tru-oil finish on front and back. Should I do 1 coat, wait 24 hours, then 2nd coat wait 24 hours then sand with 0000 steel wool (after 2nd coat)? then third coat, wait 24 hours then 0000 again?

[@letz_getschwifty9785]

@@a.soffer5911 Yo bud, as Telerado mentioned as long you have a couple of coats so the wool doesn't make contact with bare wood you should be all good! So yeah, I think what you said should be absolutely fine ✌️

[@a.soffer5911]

Hi brian, I added my first coat of tru oil to my entire neck. I know you used a little 0000 steel wool on the fret board after 1 coat. Did you use 0000 steel wool on the back of the neck as well or did you just put on 1 coat of gun stock wax after the 1st coat of tru oil? many thanks

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I don't believe I used 0000 steel wool on the back of the neck. I just wiped on the oil, then wiped off the excess....then waited for it to dry overnight, then applied the wax.

[@a.soffer5911]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 got it, many thanks

[@motorob71]

Quick question: did you play the neck BEFORE finishing? How would you compare the feel of the raw wood to the oil/wax combination? I have a neck finished in oil/wax and I love it, but the one baked maple I bought, I'm hesitant to let go of the "raw" feel... Gorgeous effect, though, well done!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks! Honestly the raw felt really good! I didn't play it persay before installing it but in my hands it felt really nice. The oil/wax finish seemed to be a little more slick so I was happy about that.

[@easton_ography]

Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but I'm new to the project guitar thing... Would it be okay to order an unfinished warmoth neck and leave it that way, or is that not advisable?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Easton Dread Pirate Roberts Thanks for watching....and there is no such thing as a dumb question ;). Are you talking about an unfinished Roasted maple neck, or an unfinished “regular” neck? They fully warranty the unfinished roasted necks so you can keep them that way but they do not warranty an unfinished neck of any other kind so I would advise adding a sealer (from their factory) on anything other than a roasted neck. Hope that helps.

[@easton_ography]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 yes that answers my question thank you! I am indeed planning on getting a roasted maple neck and I wanted to leave it unfinished so now I know it won't be a problem. Thanks again! I love how this build turned out btw!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Easton Dread Pirate Roberts Thanks and good luck with your project. These roasted necks feel amazing!

[@johnnyromero3336]

Excellent Video! Hello I'm getting ready to do this on my Music Man Sabre With the unfinished Flamed ample neck. How may coats of Tru oil did you use especially on the fingerboard? also how many Coats of the Gun Stock Wax ? I will be using the same product " Birchwood Casey", this is also what Ernie Ball Music man suggested as well.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I didn't use any more than 2 light coats! I was afraid it would build up glossy if I kept applying more, so 2 was all it needed. One coat of gun stock wax is all I used. For the wax, you could periodically apply it during maintenance of the guitar. I don't believe the wax will build up like the Tru Oil would do.

[@johnnyromero3336]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks Brian, so same on the fingerboard to? 2 coats. I was concerned it would build up between the frets.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@johnnyromero3336 Yes, I'm pretty sure I applied one coat, then wiped it back down with 0000 steel wool (front and back of neck), then applied one more very light coat. After you apply the coat, wipe/rub any excess back off immediately with a clean dry rag or microfiber towel.

[@MrNickdino]

i'm looking for a finish for my cajon, a cajon is a wooden box with a soundhole basically, what is important is that i use the finish that lets the wood resonate as much as possible. Which finish would that be?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Hi Nick, the Tru-Oil product is really good (I believe). There are other options like Linseed Oil or Tung oil. I’d go to a store like Rockler’s if you have one nearby and look at their options. A lot of your choice depends on what type of wood you are covering and how you would like the finish to “react” with the wood since some oil based finished are better for specific types of woods over others.

[@robasiegel]

How is this neck now? Have you done anything to the neck since applying the Tru-Oil? I have an unfinished, roasted, flamed maple neck coming this week.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

It is holding up great! Still one of my all-time favorite necks. I play this guitar all the time. I have not needed to do anything else to the neck, and I have not re-applied any more coats of Tru-Oil. I would say that within a few months, the "sheen" on the neck did subside a little bit, but it looks and feels great! The gun-stock wax definitely makes it more "slick" so I would highly recommend that product over anything else! Good luck with your neck!

[@pjplot]

Wow the lighting is perfect!

[@Togglefree]

Beautiful. I have a Warmoth 3A birdseye maple neck with a Satin-Nitro finish. Can I apply true oil to the satin finish?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

If it's already got a nitro finish then I would NOT apply any other product over it.

[@jamiewilson6900]

Looks amazing! Roughly how much tru oil would I need to order for the neck and fretboard?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks!!! The smallest bottle possible!!! It only takes a few dabs on the rag to cover the entire neck.

[@BillZappasodi]

Are they Stainless Steel 6150 frets?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Bill Zappasodi yes, exactly!

[@Jonw8222]

Does using Tru-Oil on the fretboard prevent dirt stains over time? It's one of the big reasons I don't like maple too much because ebony and rosewood hides that better. Does the Tru-Oil work to prevent that?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I suppose it could act as a barrier in this manner. It does need to be "renewed" once in a while depending on how much playing time you are giving it.

[@Jonw8222]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Makes sense, thanks.

[@williamjensen7365]

Curious what frets you have on the neck? Just did a tru-oil finish on a hardtail swamp ask body, turned out nice. Not roasted though

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Stainless Steel 6105....and they feel great!

[@zzrickyricardozz]

Did you have a nitro satin finish when you ordered it? It no finish at all out the box ?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Totally raw and unfinished when I ordered it! Thanks for watching!

[@michaelblaney4461]

Is using the gunstock wax alone going to make a sealed neck slightly glossy

[@fabsquil]

Brian, I received last week a flamed roasted maple neck and applied just one coat of tru oil, and let it dry for 48h. But after that it still felt very sticky. So I decided to sand it with 2000 sand paper and start the process again, thinking that I did something wrong. I followed exactly your process, but again, the result was very sticky. I let it dry inside my house, no humidity, temperature is not too cold, not too warm… Don’t understand. What do you think about that? One coat should be ok after 48 hours, no? Did you ever experience the same story? I’m beginning to think that the tru oil bottle I received is expired. Thanks for your help

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Was your flame roasted neck completely natural? In other words, did it have any type of finish applied by the manufacturer? I’ve never experienced this before. Every time I’ve applied the Tru-oil to any raw neck it’s dry to the touch within a few minutes, and could be handled within an hour or so. Definitely should be very dry within 24 hours. So I think you might have received a bad bottle of the Tru-oil. Did you shake it up very well before applying? Did you wipe away all the excess with a rag/towel after applying on the neck?

[@fabsquil]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you for your answer. Neck completely neutral, no finish, raw wood. I shaked the bottle before, and after one hour, it was definitely not dry. Still sticky after 48h, even for a thin coat. Yes, I wipped out the excess with exactly same microfiber than your! I seriously have doubts about the bottle I bought… Could you tell me where you buy yours online, cause here in France, it’s barely impossible to find it, even online (I mean Amazon even doesn’t propose it since it locates me in France). I had to buy mine on some obscure website, which would explain why this expired bottle would have been stocked on a shelf for years… Thanks again for your help

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@fabsquil Wow, I’m very sorry to hear that you are experiencing a bad result. That is very unfortunate. :( Tru-oil has been a very reliable product for me over the years, and in fact I’m still using the same bottle that I purchased for this necks 4-5 years ago without any issue. It is available on Amazon here in the US, but I purchased mine through a sporting goods store called “Cabelas”. They are owned by Bass Pro Shops. They sell hunting and fishing gear, so they carry the full line of Birchwood Casey products. I would take a look at their website and see if they can be shipped to Europe. Best of luck, and PLEASE keep me posted. Here is a link to that particular store: www.cabelas.com/shop/en/birchwood-casey-tru-oil-gun-stock-finish

[@fabsquil]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks very much, I appreciate. 👍🏼👍🏼 Any tips to remove tru oil are welcome, if you ever experienced… Of course I will let you know Cheers Brian

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@fabsquil I would probably just sand it back with a courser grit sandpaper, maybe around 600-800 grit(?). That should be fine enough to not scratch the neck, but course enough to remove the tacky oil. Also, be sure to use the “gunstock wax” after the new oil treatment. It will make it feel very slick and smooth.

[@pjincho]

Gorgeous! Why not roll the edges first, though? Those edges are sharp.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

That is a good point! ;) Thanks for watching.

[@stratoside4765]

so you buy a roasted maple to get rid of the oil and moisture just to put the moisture and oil back into it? wouldn't it be better to put nitro satin instead

[@TheEchelon]

No. First of all, roasting the maple changes the wood/material entirely. The moisture evaporates throughout the whole body and the oils crystallize. At this point moisture has a hard time of (re-)entering the wood. That's why you don't necessarily need a finish on roasted maple parts. You're not putting any moisture in it at all and the tru oil only resides on the surface, giving it an additional layer of protection. People also like the feel and look of it, which is entirely different than a nitro finish.

[@AnderAnthony]

Astonishing and inspiring work you did here! Also, why didn't you apply Gunstock Wax on the fretboard as you did on the back of the neck?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thank you very kindly! Great question. I'm sure it could have been applied on the fretboard...just never thought of it. Hmmm..next project??!! ;)

[@czito]

Is this similar to Tung oil?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yes...but technically I'm not sure what the exact differences between the two oils are. They both seem to have a similar result when wiped onto a neck (or other piece of wood).

[@eminemzs202]

Thanks for the video, just one question, how often should i re coating an new layer of tru oil?

[@eminemzs202]

Actually, i bought a clear oil finish neck from MK for a while, now im wondering should i put on the new coating with tru oil...

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@eminemzs202 Good questions...if you have a clear oil from MK I would use that. The Tru-Oil does leave a slight amber tint to it. You won't notice right away but after a few coats it will be more obvious. There's nothing wrong with that, some guys prefer the amber tones. The other question about re-coating...I haven't experienced needing to re-coat mine yet so I'm not sure. I bet it will last for a few years at the very least but of course that would depend on how much you are playing.

[@eminemzs202]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 appreciated! Since someone told me the oil would be gone after about a few days playing...i can't believe the weakness the oil has as he said...

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@eminemzs202 You're welcome man! There's no way it would wear off in a few days! I can't fathom that ever happening. Just remember that the more coats you apply the more shiny it becomes. I prefer mine to have a satin feel so I stop after 1-2 coats...maybe 3 max. You can always hit it with some steel wool if you build it up thick but want to "dull" it back down.

[@eminemzs202]

@@CoffeeDrinker71thanks again, learned a lot bro

[@surfrby8876]

That is gorgeous , I’m ordering a strat neck from Musikraft rosewood fretboard roasted and thinking about flamed maple, what grade is flame is that 4A??and what kind of nut are you using ?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Not sure why I didn't see your comment earlier, thanks for watching. Did you order your neck yet? Warmoth didn't assign a "grade" to these. They refer to them as "high grade" and "very high grade" etc...not 3A, 4A, 5A, etc. But this one is the "Very high grade"... I used the Tusq nut that they offered as well.

[@gustavofraga3643]

Congratulations on the result. Where did you buy the guitar parts and parts for the partcaster?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks...just looked around on eBay and found the loaded body all in one auction.

[@poet9155]

Quick question do you get to choose if you get that skunk stripe in the back.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Shakin Blake I suppose you go through the process of custom ordering a neck with a specific skunk stripe material. But check out the options between “modern”, “vintage/modern” and “vintage” because one of those, if I’m not mistaken does not have the skunk stripe.

[@poet9155]

Brian C. // CoffeeDrinker71 thank you man. I really like the vintage fender strata that don’t have the skunk strip like the 63 Strats. Thanks again.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@poet9155 I just looked at the Warmoth website. The "modern" necks are the ones without the skunk stripe, as they have a double-expanding truss rod.

[@randomiseit]

Hi there I've got a question I hope you'll see this. I just got a music man guitar roasted maple neck finished in gunstock oil. What's the best way to clean it. On some of my other guitars I've used lemon oil in the past but not sure what to use for this one. I don't want to ruin the look of it with the wrong stuff. Thanks

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I would not put lemon oil on any maple. Ernie Ball put this video out several years ago. They have some products that you might want to look for. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5DLlmpslrGsobc

[@migueldelgado2834]

How long should I wait in between TRU oil finish coats? I was thinking of doing 5-6 coats and burnishing with 0000 steel wool in between coats, then finishing it off with Bees Wax to finish off after the TRU oil cures. I'm looking to get the same feeling of my Stingray roasted maple neck on my new warmoth roasted maple neck

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I would suggest about 24 hours in between coats. The Tru-Oil needs adequate time to cure out!

[@brianpimm2624]

Great tutorial. Wish I had seen this before I started Tru oiling my flamed maple neck. I naively laid the Tru oil on with my finger, not too thick & have let it dry. It's thick & thin in numerous places & figure I can buff it back with steel wool.🙄 I wasn't actually aware to rag it on & then rag it off to buff. Hopefully I can achieve the satin finish such as yours. Any thoughts on this seeing I've got abit of a random gloss thing going on at the moment? Cheers 👌

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Honestly I would just take some fine grit sand paper and basically scuff the entire surface again....maybe with 600 grit? That should very quickly and easily level out any thick areas. Then possibly re-apply another coat using the rag method that I showed here. Good luck!

[@brianpimm2624]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 thanks mate, yes I took the initiative today with 0000 steelwool & have successfully de glossed the whole lot. Pain in the butt doing so, but I got there. Tomorrow I'll be starting again with your method. I much prefer the satin look hands down. Thanks again 👍

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@brianpimm2624 Great! It is a pretty forgiving product, so I'm glad it worked out! :)

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Oh....I hope you will be using the gunstock wax as a final step? It makes a world of difference!!!!

[@brianpimm2624]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 will do, thanks for the reminder. 👊

[@moobox]

Looks amazing! How do you find the difference in feel between bare wood and one coat of oil? Did it get sticky at all?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thank you! The biggest difference between the bare wood and oil actually occurs when you apply the Gun Stock Wax! That's when the magic happens. ...and no, it doesn't get sticky. ;)

[@moobox]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 perfect so if I understand you correctly, I should be fine with a coat of truoil if I prefer the feel of raw wood?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@moobox Yeah, but I'd follow that up with a quick wipe down of 0000 steel wool after it dries.

[@willman100]

Wow, that’s a beautiful neck.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks!

[@michael_caz_nyc]

Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth (but it feels, a little dry). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Can I also do the Rosewood fretboard? It's a Sterling Stingray short-scale SS-4 Bass. Any input is greatly appreciated.

[@pwhite102]

You can but most guitar makers opt to leave the rosewood unfinished because it's naturally oily. Though you might want to use a dab of lemon oil on the fretboard every six months

[@SoupieGuitar]

Wow 😮 that made it pop so much, I'll have to try it on my neck 😊

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yeah, I don't regret doing it at all. The grain was magnificent before but the oiled finish really makes it stand out!

[@0mnm0]

Beautiful, what grade of flame is that ? 3a or 5a

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Warmoth uses their own grading system. This one was referred to as "Very High Grade" in their gallery. It was the highest level they offer...so probably equivalent to 5A. Too bad prices have shot up lately...this neck would cost nearly twice as much to buy now versus what I paid back in 2018.

[@daddyrich2982]

Have you thought about Howard's Feed-N-Wax? It's Beeswax and Orange Oil.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

No I am not familiar with that product, but I'll check it out. Thanks.

[@cabronismo]

since the coat is thin, did you stil wet sand, buff it?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

No, there was no need. You can take a piece of 0000 steel wool to it, that's about it.

[@andmondson8260]

Does the oil not make the neck tacky?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

No it dries very thoroughly. I've never had a problem with it tacking up!

[@wallyg3]

Definitely a visual improvement. How did this change the feel of the neck?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

The difference in the way it felt was negligible. At first you feel the oil slightly on the surface, but now that's it's fully cured out you don't notice it.

[@wildealien]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 That's my #1 worry... I have a roasted 59 Roundback, and it is the smoothest neck in my stable. The grain is nice, and while I'd like to make it "pop" like this, I'm worried that adding anything will make it feel different. On the other side, I'm a bit worried that leaving it unfinished will make it get dirtier from my hands, and I'll need to sand it after a year or so to clean it up. Sealing it with a bit of oil could prevent that, I think, yeah?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@wildealien Yeah, I think it will do what you are looking for. Just a very thin coat of the oil...and a very light coat of the gun stock wax. In either case, whether you leave it natural or use the oil/wax combo hitting it with 0000 steel wool once a year wouldn't cause any harm and would help restore that original satin finish.

[@jerryrobertson7300]

Beautiful.....Get some 5k led lights for your shop. You’ll love them..

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks! I built a new bench since this video and put an LED shop light overhead. Man what a difference!

[@tudore_jams]

If you put a coat of Tru-oil on the fretboard, would applying lemon oil to condition the fretboard still help or no?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

It is never recommended to put lemon oil on a maple fretboard, so in this case I would say no.

[@tudore_jams]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Ah good to know! One coat of tru-oil only then, great to know!

[@devinmartin2843]

It said in the description that it was high grade roasted flame maple neck so it is that or is like a 3A or 4A neck?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Unfortunately Warmoth doesn't use that type of grading system. To be specific, they called this "very high grade" flame maple which I believe is their highest grading. Hopefully that will help.

[@devinmartin2843]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 yes this helped thanks for the reply

[@KennyLarvitz]

Question : for a waterslide decal logo , is it better to put it on before oiling or after !? Thanks !

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

If the decal is on top of the finish, then there won't be any protection over the decal. So I would assume it needs to go under the finish, just like any other type of clear coat. The only question is whether or not the oil will damage the ink on the decal? You might want to research that on a forum...I simply don't know how the Tru-oil would react to the ink. I guess it depends on the quality of the decal to begin with.

[@KennyLarvitz]

Thanks for the rep ! This is a old fender’s one , a real one I found so I prefere to ask :p

[@draganblastovicz554]

Hi, just went over the same procès with my 66 Precision. The trick is to first apply 2 or 3 thin coats of tru-oil. Let it dry for at least 24h. Then sand it lightly with 1200 sandpaper. Apply the decal. Remove carefully the air bubbles, then let the decal dry, again, 24u and you’ll be sure the water under the decal will be gone. Then apply 2 or 3 thin coat of oil. Always very smart to try it first. But I can tell you the tru-oil does not damage the decal. Let it dry overnight, then sand the edges of the decal very carefully to diminish the bulge. Sand very lightly just to gradually diminish the bulge and not damage the decal under the oil then apply the next thin coat of oil. Again let it dry overnight and repeat the procès to slowly build up the oil layers and every time sand the edges of the decal to gradually make the contour of the decal disappear. After 3 times the bulge should start to blend in... The more you will repeat the procès, the more your decal will blend and look like it is floating. So in short, You don’t apply it before or after oiling. To get the perfect finish you apply the decal in between layers.. lot of work but very rewarding. Good luck and cheers from the Netherlands! kzbin.info/www/bejne/b5O2cnx6a9OIj8U

[@KennyLarvitz]

@@draganblastovicz554 Thank you very much ! I'll try to do it like you ;)

[@chuckvincent5691]

@@KennyLarvitz I put my waterslide on the bare wood, and then applied the tru oil.

[@Ness_3]

What would you rather applying a dark dye with a cloth first and then the oil or mix it up first in a plastic recipient?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I'm not an expert on that, but I would probably wipe the dye on first, that way you can control the depth of the color before applying the Tru Oil. If you mix it together, you would continually be adding more oil with every pass to get the color you want which may result in a more glossy finish than you intended.

[@Ness_3]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 that's a good point, I'm definetly wiping the dye on first. Thanks for the answer!!!

[@patrickmacleod2415]

I love it. Thanks for sharing. I can't wait to get one of these. I think I'll do the same thing you have done here.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Good luck on your project. I was just playing this guitar last night, and it's still one of my all time favorite necks in the collection!

[@martin.cloutier]

Did you order the neck Roasted unfinisched to be able to put oil like that? Thanks

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yes, it was unfinished from Warmoth.

[@DrBlues76]

Beautiful! Was the neck unfinished before the tru-oil? I have a Warmoth neck on order that is unfinished and I plan on using tru-oil as well. Thanks for posting!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks!!! Yes, it was completely unfinished. Did you order a roasted neck?

[@DrBlues76]

No mine is not roasted but is flame maple with Rosewood fretboard. I wanted the roasted but I wanted it to match the color of the natural flame body and the roasted was a little too dark.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@DrBlues76 Cool. Good luck on your project. Don't forget to add a thin coat of gunstock wax at the end. It's the icing on the cake!

[@marioszlatinis7520]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Hey Brian, thank you for the amazing video. Quick question, did you use 0000 steel-wire after applying the final coat of try oil / gun stock wax? Thanks :)

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Marios Zlatinis I used it in between coats of tru oil but not after the wax. Once you apply the wax just rub it in and it’s ready to go! You’ll feel the difference immediately.

[@patrickbrady8326]

Awesome My neck should be here soon from warmoth and I'm going to do the same thing

[@Oilid]

Nice! Thanks for sharing! I'll do the same as soon as I receive the same spec'ed neck! ;)

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Awesome!!!! :D

[@Oilid]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 😉👍

[@logacious185]

Did you have to do any drilling for the hipshot tuners?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Nope, that's the beauty of their "UMP" or universal mounting plate system. No hole required!!

[@robertclarkguitar]

Awesome man!! I'm looking to try this or see about maybe even poly over my HB fusion T HH roasted flame maple fret board and maybe the neck oiled. Just want to protect it.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

This would be a good way to go for you! Good luck!

[@gearhead762]

Its back! Looks good. What became of the Tele build?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks! I just uploaded the 3rd video this morning for this project. After it was fully assembled, I realized the need to upgrade the saddles due to the hand-shred from the saddle screws. So, I have new Highwood saddles on the way and once they installed I'll do a final video for this one. I ended up scrapping the Tele build. The body that I was about to begin working on was way out of spec....it wasn't even close. I contacted the seller and got a full refund. I've decided to put that idea on hold for a while since I had 2-3 other projects going on. In the next few days I should be able to start uploading videos of a Jackson Fusion that I've also been working on. Thanks for watching!

[@acledfloyd]

I’m convinced. That looks great.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks!!!

[@bluzzpower]

I'm about to order a Roasted Flame Maple Neck for a Tele Build that will be unfinished from Warmoth..So you're saying you sanded it first with 1500 Grit first before appyling the Tru-Oil?.. did it have a sealer on it perhaps?..this is my first build,so yea i'm a newb..Probably a dumb question..Let me know. That neck looks Fantastic Man!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Hi Eddie, thanks for watching. Honestly I wouldn’t sand your new neck (I don’t think I sanded mine either). All of the “roasted” necks from Warmoth can be ordered without any type of sealer because the roasting process stabilizes the wood. It’s the only neck option that doesn’t require a sealer/finish to be warrantied. So, I would order yours without any sealer. If you decided to add the oil, just apply it with a cotton rag, wipe it really thin, then go back and wipe off any excess. It dries pretty quickly to the touch but I’d leave it overnight before heavy handling. There’s never a dumb question! Thanks for asking! Good luck on your project. Cheers!

[@bluzzpower]

@@CoffeeDrinker71Thanks for the Quick Reply Brian!....I m' going to take the plunge and purchase this neck..I picked up a fiesta red gloss finish Warmoth Tele Body to attach it to..This neck will compliment Well I'm thinkin..More so when Applying the Oil and Wax! Gotta Love that Pop!! Also dug your version of "Hill of the Skull" Niiice! Thanks Again!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Eddie Leon Oh yeah, that Fiesta Red and roasted flame neck will be a beautiful combination! Yeah, the oil gives it that “pop” and the wax really makes it feel super slick!! Thanks for checking out the other video(s). Hill of the Skull is a really cool song by Satch! ;) Keep me posted on your project!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Eddie Leon by the way, if you haven’t done so already, check out the 2 main Warmoth related groups on Facebook. The community is really helpful and supportive.

[@bruce_muzik]

Great neck. What neck shape is on the back of that thing? Looks like a wizard?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

It’s the thin C shape.

[@moobox]

I'm considering doing a thin coat of Tru-Oil on my roasted flame maple Warmoth neck. I prefer unfinished and bare necks. Will one thin coat affect the satin feeling if a bare neck very much?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

I don’t think you’ll be able to notice 1 thin coat. If you don’t like the feeling afterwards, you can always knock it down with 0000 steel wool for an even better feel, then add the gun stock wax.

[@moobox]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 thanks very much for the quick response. Great video as well, watched it a few times now over the last little bit. Cheers

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@moobox my pleasure, and thanks! Best of luck on your project.

[@beannie60]

I really appreciate your video it just about answered all my questions but two, did this application/procedure give the neck that satin feel as well and can it be used on a rosewood fingerboard? Thanks!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks for the kind words! So, for the satin feel, yes is does contribute to that feeling...but the biggest ingredient to send it over the top is the Gun Stock wax!!! That stuff will DEFINITELY give it that satin, slick feel more so than the Tru Oil. For the rosewood fretboard, I don’t have any experience using it on rosewood. Stew Mac sells a product called “Fretboard finishing Oil” that I have used on my rosewood boards and it is a very nice feel. I would recommend using something like that instead (for the rosewood).

[@beannie60]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks for your reply, I did order both and can't wait to do it!

[@yumadapaka]

Hello! Would you recommend putting tru oil on rosewood fretboard?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

No, I personally would not. The best product I've seen so far is the F-one fretboard oil from Music Nomad.

[@efsglass]

Did you order this with no finish then?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yes, that is correct.

[@flips220]

Holy smokes, that final shot. That turned out great. Thanks for posting this, it's exactly what I needed to see as I stare down my roasted maple Warmoth neck and decide what to do. What wax did you use?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks for watching! Yeah, it absolutely popped the flame!!! The products I used were both Birchwood Casey items..the "Tru-Oil" and the "Gunstock Wax". I found them both at my local Cabellas. The gunstock wax will absolutely make it feel like a million bucks. Just rub one light coat on the back of the neck. It dries instantly. Good luck on your project.

[@flips220]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you!

[@a.soffer5911]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 many thanks Brian, after putting on gunstock wax and after it dries (assuming 24 hours later) do you need to do any buffing or polishing compound?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@a.soffer5911 Once that gunstock wax is dry, that is all you need to do!

[@a.soffer5911]

​@@CoffeeDrinker71 awesome many thanks. I just got a beautiful unfinished roasted flame maple neck from warmoth & would like to do the same thing as you did (yours came out beautiful). Is it just 1 coat of tru-oil on the fretboard & back of neck, wait 24 hours, then sand with 0000 steel wool? I heard it may be better to sand with 0000 steel wool after a 2nd coat to not dirty up the wood? Did you do more than 1 coat on the fretboard & back of neck? I'll be doing multiple coats to the headstock under & over a laser printed waterslide decal. Should I also wait to start sanding with 0000 steel wool until after 2nd coat of tru-oil? Is there anything to apply to headstock once finished with the multiple layers of tru-oil? Many thanks for your help. Very much appreciated. Sorry for the multiple questions.

[@barryh3607]

I forgot about using Tru Oil, like Fender does (or at least did on the USA/Japan first run) for their Charvel and EVH necks. I am looking to order a project from Warmoth and was going to get the neck satin nitro finished for I think about $80 from factory. This looks good and will save me a little money.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yeah, the Tru oil method is tried and tested, so there's no reason to pay for a "sprayed finish" on a new neck when you can simply wipe on a few coats of this magical oil! ;) Good luck with your project.

[@andrewbecker3700]

I'm almost ready to super mod my new Sterling Cutlass CT50 HSS in firemist silver. It has the roasted maple neck and fretboard you speak of that's been passed down through the years on various models. Was wondering what to use on it that won't gum up or become wet looking. Definitly gonna give this stuff a try.

[@OmarGabra]

Hope you can answer me, i have added a thin layer of truoil to my jp15 neck, without sanding. Did i make a mistake? It feels a bit sticky, i will let it dry for now.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

How long ago did you apply the oil?

[@OmarGabra]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 like a min max

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@OmarGabra So, I would say to let it dry (cure) for several hours...or possibly 1 full day if possible. You can take a piece of 0000 steel wool to it, and lightly rub the neck (just put some tape around your body edges to protect them from getting hit with steel wool. Following that, I would highly highly recommend applying a coat of the Birchwood Casey gun stock wax. It will transform the feel of that neck into a very slick, satin feel. I also have the EBMM JP6 and this is how I treat mine...and I believe it how EBMM treats them in the factory. So, hopefully within a few hours you will notice the stickiness going away.

[@OmarGabra]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 thaaanks man, i didnt find this wax, there is howard feed n wax only

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@OmarGabra My pleasure! Well, hopefully you can find this because it makes a WORLD of difference after the Tru Oil. I have not heard of the Howard brand so I can't comment on it. Here's what the Birchwood Casey product looks like. Perhaps you could order it online? www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/gun-stock-wax-3-fl-oz-bottle.html

[@kellenmills6622]

which tru oil did you use? The birch wood one?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Yes, the Birchwood Casey brand.

[@bricknboxer]

So how does it play? And how has the Tru Oil held up?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Honestly it plays like a million bucks. FWIW I actually sent the completed guitar to Sweetwater for full PLEK and setup afterwards. It really changed the overall dynamics of the way it plays. It's almost effortless now, and with the stainless frets everything is silky smooth. The tru oil has help up perfectly as well.

[@CheckingYourRealityForYou]

wouldnt it b better to sand from 600 to 2000 before u apply tru-oil?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Totally a preference. If you like it smoother, then yes, you could sand to 2000 grit.

[@iceWaterProductions1]

Do you oil the fretboard also?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Totally up to you. I applied a thin coat to the fretboard in this video, and it looked great.

[@letz_getschwifty9785]

Dude, that wood is insane! Really looks the part, out of curiosity do you know what grade figure it is?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thank you so much! They didn't give it a letter grade, like 4A or 5A, etc. The listing on Warmoth's website just called it a "Very High Grade" flame maple. Hope that helps.

[@letz_getschwifty9785]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks for the reply, I reckon it just be 5A then. Really has a lovely holographic look to it, roasted maple sure is becoming very popular lately.

[@wildealien]

Can you drop links into the description for the parts/supplies you used?

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Are you asking about the tuners, neck, etc...or just the Tru-oil and Gun stock wax?

[@wildealien]

@@CoffeeDrinker71 The oil, wax, and those rags look pretty handy too! :)

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

@@wildealien Done! You'll have to expand the description section to see the links. The small bottles will last forever...no need to buy anything larger. You can find those products at some local hunting/fishing/gun stores or order it online. The link I attached is direct from the manufacturer. The rags are just your basic run of the mill terry cotton shop towels. I buy those at the hardware store in the paint section in a large bag. Hope that helps. Good luck on your project.

[@bigcountryplatinum5150]

Wow! That looks great!

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Thanks!!!