AR-15 Build Tip: Install Barrel Nut Properly!

[@Pistonstrokes]

Torque wrench adapter should be positioned at 90 degrees otherwise the reading is inaccurate. Also never use a torque wrench to break loose a fastner.

[@americanmilitiaman88]

Between 35 and 80 ft lbs. A beam torque wrench is plenty accurate enough although its best to use a breaker bar for loosening. Its not a bolt on a boeing max8 or cylinder head. If its between the 35 and 80 and gas tube can line up then its good

[@seandavidr]

A dial torque wrench just has a beam on the inside anyway

[@pescad0]

Can i just check headspace by hipfiring into the berm? Thanks OP

[@anthonytrantham7358]

That camera bounce like a boss tho.

[@peeeoii2738]

Don’t loosen barrel nut with torque wrench alway use a breaker bar because it could throw off your calibration, your wrench has to be 90 degrees angle from your barrel nut wrench tool to get proper torque, I suggested Midwest industries URR for torquing down barrel nuts and muzzle devices. It’s everything the Geissele reaction rod was supposed to be it keeps your barrel /chamber/feed ramps timed correctly during installation and takes force off of your barrel, index pin and upper receiver, mouse hole so those things won’t snap the Geissele reaction rod is good for assembly UNLESS you need to apply very high torque then the Midwest URR is for you.

[@yojimbo05]

From my knowledge and what I know is that using lithium based grease on an a r upper, that's aluminum, what calls intense rust. I didn't know what your opinion was about that or if you knew that or not

[@ibthumper2]

The golden rule is not use a torque wrench to loosen. It's the law! Seriously, it can affect the calibration. Thanks much.

[@mitchelle245]

Kenneth G Maiden to piggyback off that 90 degrees torque wrench angle is another tidbit

[@ibthumper2]

You're right. I saw that but failed lip flap about it. Too early for me I guess. LOL

[@CaptainBerz]

My torque wrench is calibrated in both directions. Not an issue. Plus I did not exceed the torque wrench's maximum reading, which is when calibration gets fucked. 150 TW and barrel nut is at max 65. Honestly you don't even need a torque wrench. Made plenty without one and using my grandpa's 1920's big ole wrench. Haha.

[@BlueSun2]

The old beam type torque wrench that he is using works in both directions-- he's not hurting a thing. I have one just like it, you can read torque both in tightening and loosening.

[@DaveSmith-cp5kj]

@@CaptainBerz Especially since the barrel nut has an extremely large range of torque spec. Basically all they want is just for it to be tight so the barrel doesn't rattle back and forth. The torque isn't to keep it from backing out since the impingement tube does that.

[@jakespottedhorse]

Do not use torque wrench to loosen

[@czlover7531]

Glad I managed to do everything right when I put my Geissele mk8 on. This video gave me feel goods and warm fuzzy feelings of reassurance. Nice video!

[@ibthumper2]

Almost as good as a gun bunny at shot show.

[@CaptainBerz]

Thanks!

[@biguy525]

I have had good luck with Loctite 51001 copper anti seize that I get at the local auto parts store. I believe it is the same lube that comes on new Glock pistols.

[@CaptainBerz]

If it works for you, right on!

[@biguy525]

I have watched a tec tip video from Brownell's and they actually use the loctite 51001. They did mentioned galvanic corrosion and said they have never seen it.

[@michaelmcpherson6033]

May be a stupid question but how did you make sure the screw holes for the hand guard where perfectly aligned? There new hand-guards tolerances are much tighter so I’m going to have to tap mine on with a rubber mallet so need to make sure holes are aligned first or I’m not getting it back off the nut without some force.

[@michaelmcpherson6033]

I believe the recommended torque is 40lbs but what if shit don’t line up at 40?

[@HuffMan501]

A barrel nut shim or shims will help with your alignment issues. Can find them online for pretty cheap. Looks like a washer

[@southpoleelvs]

Nice video! About to build my first upper. New sub!

[@slr7628]

In this vid berz shows the 33ms aeroshell grease in the container..it’s now labeled aeroshell 64.you can buy it in the .25 oz container that some gun part websites sell.those websites charge like $5 for that size or do like I do and buy the full cartridge of 14 oz for $25 and split it with someone.its a ripoff buying it in tiny containers imo

[@slr7628]

pilotshq.com/products/aeroshell-33ms-64-extreme-pressure-grease-mil-21164d?variant=34338926952584&Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAn7L-BRBbEiwAl9UtkL-drueN_HJUJJhaXH8SLTXdjlLu2zAaiy1q9cmKARM_WHHvsmM_ERoC8KYQAvD_BwE

[@slr7628]

www.amazon.com/AeroShell-Grease-formerly-Extreme-Pressure/dp/B01M8OQMOV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=aeroshell+64&qid=1607300191&sr=8-3 Amazon may be cheaper including shipping

[@jamesnao]

not one single video online shows what to do if the torque takes it past the barrel nuts slots, making the rail off a bit. How am i the only person to have ever had this issue lol

[@VndNvwYvvSvv]

Depends on your handguard. If yours depends on the barrel nut clocking, there are shims of different thickeness to space the nut. They're like $6 per set

[@jbp3430]

I have same issues. It’s a pain it it works

[@liggerstuxin1]

What about the people like at Criterion where they recommend red Loctite to bed the barrel?

[@TripAMD]

Im sure the video shows the correct way, but i just use copper anti-sieze on the barrel n nut. Torque it to 100lbs once and call it a day. Sometimes i dont even use a torque wrench, ill just give it a good pull till it feels about right. Ive never had a problem. My first of many builds was around 10 years ago now and ive put thousands and thousands of rounds of the cheapest shit known to man(good stuff too)thru um all. Rapid fire on top of rapid fire. Changed out plenty of barrels too. Never an issue. Maybe it effects accuracy goin about it like i do? But It wont let u down because of it tho. PS, to hell with all the douche bags crying about the torque wrench. It aint hurt. Isnt it a old school needle job anyhow?

[@DaveSmith-cp5kj]

Copper anti-seize is the actually the worst you can use. The point of the grease prevents seizing by preventing galvanic corrosion, not due to torqueing. The grease's role is to provide a barrier between the aluminum upper threads, and the steel barrel nut threads if the anodizing or paint job fails by scraping off. This is because of galvanic corrosion where dissimilar metal elements can interact with each other over time. The risk of galvanic corrosion is very minor and typically only seen on military weapons that may be improperly stored for decades under service, and the rifle will be rebarreled multiple times in its lifespan due to wear causing scratching on the threads. This is why you didn't and likely won't see any problems using copper anti-seize. However if you ever happen to rebarrel again, you should be using a non-metallic grease, such as the variety of full synthetic automotive greases available.

[@Nova-ne1il]

Don't be so hard on him yeah don't do that but there are a lot of videos that don't do the ta seating thay gust tq to spec and done.

[@TexasTrained]

I agree with the grease on threads and on all contact points.However I do not agree on tightening and loosening and re-tightening an aluminum or more so a steel nut on the aluminum upper.It will start to mess up the threads.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Well....it is either 6061 or 7075-T6 tightened to less than 80 ft.lbs. That won't mess up any threads.

[@bill65761]

Start with clean threads. Not 'sorta clean' -- clean. Lube with clean anti-seize. CLEAN anti-seize. Start the nut by turning backward until it "clicks" into place, then run the nut on by fingertip -- no less than three full turns.. You don't even go looking for the wrench until it's fully hand tight. If you do that, and don't over-torque you will only VERY rarely screw things up. Look at the Machinery's Manual for torque specs ... the AR barrel nut is safely within the max.

[@btramm1980]

Does anyone now where to get a spanner wrench like the one in this video?

[@robertcowan8211]

NEVER LOOSEN WITH A TORQUE WRENCH.........................EVER

[@paulhughes3961]

I watched a video a couple of weeks ago and this guy was acting like he was some real experienced gun pro. He was showing what he called the correct way to install a barrel. Not one drop of grease anywhere, instead he slathered on copious amounts of red loctite. On the barrel extension and the receiver threads. And with one swift motion and torqued that barrel nut down to 75 fbs. It was unreal watching that.

[@CaptainBerz]

😮

[@bookkeeper1995]

I've seen that video, it's painful

[@AustinV1st]

Please post link I would love to see the how not to do it video

[@nathan00campbell]

got an issue,,, bought a rifle with a no name handguard on it. uses its own barrel nut.. now i cant get better than 15" groups, ive changed the barrel, bcg, trigger, 3 different scopes, 3 different mounts, no change. i just ordered a free float handguard that uses a mil spec barrel nut. have you, or anyone reading this, ever heard of a barrel nut causing accuracy issues.... the barrel fits almost to snug in the upper. was a pain to remove the old one and tough to instal the new one. so its not loose. only thing i can think of is the handguard/barrel nut at this point... oh and ive tried 9 different brands of ammo and just about any weight projectile you could think of. no change.

[@CaptainBerz]

Is this your first AR-15? What yardage are groups from? How are you shooting?

[@nathan00campbell]

@@CaptainBerz built more than 50, cant stay on a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood at 100, shooting at only 25 yards from a vice 15" average. just bought a geissele super precision mount. no change... going to wait on the new handguard so i can install a mil spec barrel nut and see if that is the issue. there is no way 2 barrels from 2 different manufacturers are both shooting exactly the same in terms of bad. all i can think is the barrel nut. it takes some real force to install the barrel so its not a loose fit... i even took it back apart to inspect the upper for cracks and nope. only think it could be is the nut is getting tight on the upper and not the barrel.

[@nathan00campbell]

@KGB2101 upper receiver had a nearly unnoticeable crack around the barrel nut threads.

[@mossranchoutdoors7249]

Maybe a Bushmaster Carbon 15? Picatinny rail will not stay in one spot. Sent mine back to remington to have metal upper installed to fix the problem.

[@nathan00campbell]

@@mossranchoutdoors7249 would never have anything to do with that upper (carbon15), sorry, but my issue turned out to be a crack in the upper just at the threads for the barrel nut allowing movement found when i got a new upper to try out. not sure how i missed it before.

[@mrpen1524]

like a professional. those were funny

[@BrianOgilvie79]

never ever use the torque wrench which is a calibrated instrument to back off the nut.

[@CaptainBerz]

Only if maximum torque is exceeded, which it wasn’t. Do you know exactly which wrench I used? Probably not. Calibrated both ways for 150.

[@slr7628]

I feel ya berz but you prob should have still mentioned the rule of not using the torque wrench to back off the barrel nut since most people watching the vid will be using a cheap harbor freight torque wrench

[@0x00zero]

@@slr7628 with bending beam type wrench it probably won't hurt anything. Might even help it to bend it back and forth some and verify it re-zeros. Rough-calibrate with bathroom scale and bench vise if you don't have anything better before doing an important fastener. And I would even dare to loosen things with my click stop, too. But I regularly verify it's reasonable as suggested above. Finally, the bending beam types are designed to work both ways...the scale goes + and - for right and left threads. Click stop units rarely work on left hand fasteners (or trying to set bearing preloads on things that spin CCW when viewed from the wrenching end).

[@m.l.miller219]

If anyone can answer ... I've seen it done (and recommended) both ways, but I don't know which way is correct and preferred: When using your torque wrench, should the wrench be in line (longitudinally) with the armorer's wrench, or crossways at a 90 degree angle? Many thanks. >>> Well, just found the answer here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4bPgIiGYrNpZ5I Hold the torque wrench at 90 degrees to your armorer's or barrel nut wrench.

[@TRP_pit_crew]

I used red thread lock on mine, shouldnt have to worry about it seizing up that way

[@CaptainBerz]

Going to need to heat it up to 400+ degrees to remove it with Red Loctite. Haha.

[@bill65761]

You are going to wish you had used blue.

[@Sea4Shell]

Have you seen the corrosion red can do?

[@thew.a.p.slayer4061]

@@CaptainBerz he might have to cut it with an angle grinder. It’s supposed to be grease cause grease stops it from galling.

[@cliffordlatko1901]

Whats the final torque?

[@Buckshot1123]

I’m doing my first build I just ordered all the parts. Or I think I did. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME IF I HAVE TO BUY A BARREL NUT OR IF IT COMES WITH THE HANDGAURD, UPPER RECEIVER, OR THE BARREL?? I’d like to find out soon so I can order one if I need it.

[@CaptainBerz]

Usually comes with it.

[@Buckshot1123]

CaptainBerz thanks lol I guess worse thing I gotta order one or my impatient ass will drive to cabelas and look for one😂

[@jonathansingleton7147]

It should come with the handguard since most of them are proprietary too the handguard if it's a free float

[@flashbulb9]

What vise block are you using? Looking for one like this...

[@peterazpeitia4715]

We're can I go to but the barrel nut tool please

[@5aint]

Yeah, what he said, where can I get that barrel nut tool?

[@robjohnson171]

Should I also season the buffer tube / castle nut threads?

[@CaptainBerz]

You can, sure.

[@DaveSmith-cp5kj]

I wouldn't do the castle nut. If the nut comes loose your stock will wobble. Military standard involves staking the castle nut, but if you ever plan to switch stocks (such as a full length fixed or a PDW) you will have to remove the castle nut. I suggest using thread locker on the castle nut which means you need to degrease the threads, not add oil to it. This will keep it secure like staking but provide you the ability to easily remove if needed.

[@gusstout1647]

Where did u get that barrel nut wrench?

[@luckyphil_01]

Hey guys - just fyi, Shell recently renamed Aeroshell 33ms with Aeroshell 64, check it out site.skygeek.com/PDFs/33msto64.pdf

[@chadmcdowell5582]

what is the wrench/tool you are using? Most of them have pins that go in towards the receiver but yours is pushing down into the holes around and in towards the a barrel. I have the same type of barrel nut, seems much less common. I cannot find the right tool but you seem to have found one.

[@zekethefishgeek8690]

Its called a spanner wrench... and If I am not mistaken, I do believe that his seems to look loke it's an adjustable model too...

[@dddortega]

where did you get tht barrel nut thanks

[@TheGrimCreeper95]

Fucking professional.

[@brandonashley4918]

What wrench is that you are using to install barrel nut?

[@nkartes]

If you purchase a V Seven handguard that uses this type of barrel nut, it will come with that wrench.

[@pastornate0827]

What brand/kind of wrench are you using?

[@brandonworland3211]

Where did you get your tools?

[@zlothra]

What barrel nut tool is that? None of my tools work with the PWS Mk116 barrel nut. Trying to find something similar.

[@Fighter4Street]

That is a tool for V seven barrel nuts only. You get it if you purchase a V seven rail.

[@Droodog127]

lets see ya torque a regular toothed barrel nut and line up the gas tube

[@CaptainBerz]

You torque and time it. What is so difficult?

[@Sphoxros]

Which adapters are you using to hold the upper in the vise with :).

[@CaptainBerz]

Not sure, probably from Midway or somewhere.

[@peeeoii2738]

@@CaptainBerz I suggest the Midwest urr that thing you have looks like it puts a ton of stress on your barrel index pins and upper receiver mouse while you need something to keep your barrel/chamber timed properly upper receivers are prone to rotate without something like the URR/G$ Reaction rod/bev block

[@2aholes402]

what are those whole on the side of the barrel nut for?

[@CaptainBerz]

bbc

[@tedh.8356]

It's difficult to listen to someone give advice when they break a "Mechanical Golden Rule" you absolutely never,ever use a Torque wrench or ratchet for that matter to break torque! that's what "Breaker Bars" are for.........

[@randylahey2242]

your a moron thats a beam type torque wrench not a click type. Always funny to see someone talk with so much passion when they are completely wrong..

[@OPtheFLASH]

what torque range is proper for that V7 Barrel nut?

[@VndNvwYvvSvv]

Between 1 and 3 Gütentites

[@zx9rinak]

Where’s the evidence that this is affective? In my experience, the more you use anything the less affective it becomes from wear

[@VndNvwYvvSvv]

It's a known principle of mechanical engineering especially for dissimilar metals. You want the threads to mate before accepting the final torque, otherwise you're getting a sort of "false" torque and the bedding or burnishing of the un-mated threads can loosen over time. Same reason you NEVER skip the first valve adjustment on an engine (says 5k miles), but subsequent services often need zero adjustment unless there's valve recession from improperly hardened seats-- which, again, would be dissimilar metals wearing.

[@madmex21]

Don't use a torque wrench to loosen the barrel nut, newb!

[@datsunz152]

Thats only with a click type torque wrench, doesnt matter with that kind

[@davidcantwell2489]

So, how do you torque a left hand thread bolt or nut?

[@philweed1603]

Incorrect!! The attachment on your torque wrench should be at a 90 degree angle! kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5m2nqeCi6qGia8si=4t9XZFoo-5RpMDdp