Arduino brushed motors DRONE - Part3 - it finally flies

[@Aemilindore]

The most interesting parts are where you went wrong. Thanks for making the files open.

[@ExplosionCrafter]

I love it, that you show and explain the problems you have to solve during the creation of your projects.

[@timneschen9189]

When I started my own arduino brushed drone, I got inspired by you plenty of times. Thank you so much for that. As soon I reachead the same Stage as you in the Vid, I tried to avoid these motor spikes by writing a sequenze for the motors to start, pressed by a button from the controller. I Still have some problems to fly, but this helped me a lot.

[@arnavgupta9107]

Use a diode to reduce the back emf spikes it has a weight negligible to that of the capacitor and connect it in reverse polarity to actual polarity of motor to make a conductive path for the current to flow from the motor

[@Ncky]

Atmega328p @8mhz can run anywhere from 2.7 to 5.5v stable, perfect for lipo.

[@ElectroIoT]

Many thanks finally wait is over ... Many thanks for great hard work and take many times to make this I'm always happy when you make new project ...

[@AntiPolarity]

The radiomodule can consume up to 350 mA, as i remember. So maybe voltage regulator causes problems because it's not powerfull enough. Motors are creating a lot of electrical niose. Also they provide feedback voltage when PWM signal goes low. This may cause arduino to reset itself. Instead of puting big capacitor on arduino power supply try to put small capacitors and diods between contaacts of each motor. Capacitors will reduce the noise and diodes will protect arduino from feedback voltage. Also it is aa good practice to put small capacitors on battery output and output of voltaage regulator. Thanks for the video. I've been waiting for it!)

[@vishal01mehra]

Red motors are running faster than black That is causing it to rotate CCW (counter clock wise).

[@jeefryarcs]

What file name for upload to arduino for working project??receiver or multywii+nrf24...?? Cause to much code for this schematic

[@afoerinwajuliana3367]

@@jeefryarcs I want the PCB board l want to use it to make a project

[@jeefryarcs]

@@afoerinwajuliana3367 why to me??

[@BLACKArracknet]

I have a tip for you:- use bigger but light 3d printed propellers. In 3d printers you can lower the density of the material and leave air spaces between the propeller

[@djDblessed]

If the geared motors have more lift, why not make some solderpads on each corner of the drone to solder a short length of metal rod and then attach the geared parts to that. This way you have more lift and you can have a heavier drone itself.

[@rverm1000]

That's a cool Arduino project. Getting the bang for the buck would involve testing motors and props to see which ones will give you the most lift with the least amount of energy consumed.

[@timjs1018]

If weight were the main problem, then it would spool up and not move. Yours is spinning in a circle, indicating one or more of the props are spinning in the wrong direction OR the rpm of the props is significantly off either due to malfunctioning motors or the controller is doing it on purpose for some reason. Also I'm sure you know those small DC motors are only designed to spin in one direction, yes? The wire colors indicate if it is a clockwise or counterclockwise motor.

[@Resonanc3]

timjs1018 Yep, I totally agree with you, I had the same feeling watching how the drone rotates on the z-axis, It looks like if a diagonal couple of motors is spinning more than the other

[@shutdahellup69420]

timjs1018 really? i thought coreless motors can spin in both ways

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Weight is the main problem. It has more but that makes the drone not to fly. It spins in a circle because: since it won¡t lift, the PID gets bigger and bigger on one side. Motors are spinning in the good direction and propellers as well. I will have to try bigger propellers and less weight. Thanks!

[@timjs1018]

Electronoobs I disagree with your assessment. If the controller were operating properly, it would spin the motors at the required rate to achieve the target yaw rate. If you're NOT telling it to yaw, but it IS anyways, there's a controller problem OR the motors are not responding in the way the controller expects them to. It seems you have a yaw control problem as well as too much weight. Either way, I hope you figure it out, this is a great project!

[@timjs1018]

Shut da hell up Yes. They can but the brushes are directional and wont last long running "against the grain" so to speak.

[@MrBobWareham]

Buck converter for your 3.3 volts larger tracks from the battery to and from the buck converter or to test add copper wire on the tracks this will stop voltage drop remove large capacitor you don't need it then add 0.1Uf ceramic caps to each motor across the terminals and 0.1uf from the positive input terminal on each motor to the motor case this will sheld motor noise to the radio de-couple any long tracks from the microcontroller to the motor board try 0.1 ceramic caps the tracks look small to me use big tracks if you can if you cant use big tracks get your board made with more copper!! your cheap motors are a major problem as the body will be made from steel due to the magnets this is why brushless motors made of aluminium are used. good luck and love your channel your videos are very good and you explain it all so well.

[@garethronaldo8692]

you dont know man how much we love u 💙 as a fun of u and ur really amazing projects 😁

[@AnimeSupp]

I think you should use two small battery separate for motor and the chip. It will solve the resetting and voltage drop problem Also you can use esp8266 instead of nrf and atmega320p. It has built in wifi so it will also reduce weight.

[@antonw8134]

It might be a good idea to directly measure the lift of the original motors, and the lift of the new motors. That will give you a better estimation if your changes will be enough for flight, or if you’ll need to make additional modifications.

[@rtarade1]

Put a diode between supply and Arduino with a Capacitor... A high current surge also discharges the capacitor connected to the Arduino. With the help of diode you don't need a heavy Capacitor Also try 6.5cm propeller 5.5cm or less doesn't work

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Rajat Tarade thank you!

[@rtarade1]

10pair 65MM ABS Propeller Blade CW CCW For 6 X 15 Coreless Motor Racing Multicopter For Q100 Frame 720 8520 Coreless Motor s.aliexpress.com/jUvmmam6?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard

[@rtarade1]

Design your next PCB according to the 6.5cm propeller

[@duncanx99]

Rajat Tarade 6.5cm perhaps??? 6.5mm is about a quarter of an inch...

[@rtarade1]

duncan amos yes 6.5 cm 😅

[@pk81yt]

I think your biggest problem here is that the motors vibration affect your gyro/accel readings. You have no soft separation between MPU module and motors. You didn't have such a big problem with the bigger drone because it had long wooden arms that were damping the motors' vibrations. But with this tiny solid frame the vibrations hugely affect the gyro and your stabilization algorithm goes crazy causing the drone to jump and spin. You can see that most brushed frames have some sort of rubber dampeners for the motors.

[@nadeemrana4022]

Singing video faking video

[@ansarahmed4631]

As what I can see from the video is that the front side of the drone is that where nrf24l01 is soldered. According to that the black propeller at front right must rotate in anticlockwise direction. Similarly all the propellers are moving in apposite direction. Change the direction of propeller and it will definitely fly.

[@netdudeuk]

I agree that there's something funny about the motors. It isn't just a matter of there not being enough power. Also, that battery probably weighs more than it should for those small brushed motors.

[@Ange1Monty]

where is the part 4??

[@bratwizard]

One thing you could do is remove some material from your circuit board. That is one great big hunk of copper and phenolic and you probably don't need all of it. Maybe add some holes along the struts and towards the middle to drop some weight. Another thing might be to rework your circuit so that more of the heavy stuff is toward the center for better balance. Finally, if you're designing your own board, add the components for your add-on modules and get rid of the extra weight from those pcbs.

[@sidyajv]

Hi Electronoobs, why not try using a lighter/smaller lipo for initial test just to make sure how much weight you need to drop to ensure liftoff and decent flight.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

I've done that but I thonk that the propellers are still too small for this weight.

[@sunilkumar-ls2yb]

@@ELECTRONOOBS Can u plz help me Phone number and whatsapp:[phone] Instagram:sunil_kumar__105

[@suneetasandeep]

Hi, I can suggest that you decrease the dimension of motor arms as well running between main board and motor holder resulting in more weight loss of PCB itself, bringing components closer to the atmega will also give a good CG support

[@sunilkumar-ls2yb]

Can u plz help me Phone number and whatsapp:[phone] Instagram:sunil_kumar__105

[@abhishekaich9951]

I followed each and every step that you have shown but there is a problem...While I am increasing the throttle....on two motors are running...other two are not...please help

[@bhavikrajpal6882]

Hey did you find the fix.😅

[@bhavikrajpal6882]

Did you find any solution?

[@abhishekaich9951]

@@bhavikrajpal6882 bruh…it is occurring due to motors taking large current while taking There can be two ways:- 1) place a 1000uf capacitor in the input of the battery terminals 2) use a high discharge rate lipo battery

[@f.a3202]

I think the problem is at the motors because i have seen some drones that the 2 motors for example the two with the black prop., turn clockwise and the red one's turn anticlockwise for better balance, i think, but in your drone they all turn the same direction.😊

[@shutdahellup69420]

If u look closely, u can see quad spinning on one axis/ motor....thrust or weight isnt an issue right now...The 2 black props stops spinning for some reason which is why drone cant counteract the torque and hence stays at ground spinning...

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Will look on that. I had times it was spinning streight, PID valuues are acumulating and that will make one motor to spin faster.... Thanks!

[@JakubKraus0]

Replace the "arms" with wooden sticks just for testing to reduce weight. Also a bigger battery (and especially higher C rating one) will actually make it fly with more power, since I doubt a 150mah battery can push enough amps. Maybe thats the problem? I have small motors with 65mm props ant when I connect it to a battery they push a lot of air, no problem getting 60g of drone into the air. So a simple solution, make longer "arms" for bigger propellers and use a bigger battery.

[@alexlowe138]

The avr chip works fine with 3.7v input...your only problem is the input to nrf24l01 chip. I had the same problem and I got around it by dropping the input voltage using a siplme 1n4007 diode. For the lift problem there exists longer propellers which output more upward thrust..you should use those

[@ismail6741]

I have usually lots of question and you answer them with your each video.

[@Davedarko]

Not sure if anyone suggested it: AP2112K for the 3V3, they are used on the adafruit huzzah boards with the esp8266 modules on them, have a low drop out and can deliver up to 600mA iirc. also try using some caps on the 3v3 side, so it can compensate power loss on that side too. And please get a flux pen :) maybe don't use a lot of copper fills as well.

[@SurajGrewal]

Here's some tips- Try IR for now the board underneath motor might be blocking airflow.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thanks!

[@mrtechslab1800]

Tests aren’t useless every test (milestone) every test brings you closer victory !😃👍

[@aerostatdrones3370]

Spinning may be due to 4 reasons 1) You may have inverted the propeller eg: CW propeller instead of CCW 2) Inverted motor spinning direction 3) Motor layout may be wrong, so check with firmware 4) Adjust the trim values either in software or in transmitter Good luck! .

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

THanks!

[@cashel1111]

keep it going man :) nearly there. you should consider upgrading the motors, it will increase costs but if it flies you have a working drone :) if you want to add any other components (ie: camera, frame) then you would rather have more power than less.

[@naigongarcia9482]

La de canutos que me pegaba en ese parque del clot (2:24) hace 3 años! Que recuerdos, que random que lo encuentre por aqui

[@SKElectronics]

you can make a new pcb with mpu6050 & nrf24l01all in one pcb. I don't know what size of motor you are using but use 8.5 x 20mm (820) size motor. The quad was spinning in one direction(cc) while starting it seems like cc motor are spinning faster even if they are getting the same pulse. These motor some time do that, lower the pwm signal in the cc motor & check if it's stop spinnig.

[@KaizenInventor]

Just awesome Waiting for mini drone complete project!!!!

[@doctorsanders1]

Try Increasing prop size. I recently built a plane and it would not stay in the air, but I knew the motors could produce enough thrust because they had come from a helicopter that weighed more than my plane and the helicopter was capable of vertical takeoff. I eventually determined that it was because my props were too small so even at max rpm they couldn't product enough thrust. Increasing my props from 38mm to 55mm fixed the problem.

[@hasemali7799]

love you electronoobs

[@issa_ood]

you need to use another motor with gears. for the supply try to add titanium cap. and you may also need to make that battery 2s instead 1s to increase the voltage.

[@sunilkumar-ls2yb]

Can u plz help me Phone number and whatsapp:[phone] Instagram:sunil_kumar__105

[@TotanDas1991]

i don't think component and PCB weight causing it not to fly because motors and battery weight is much greater than PCB and component weight. I think your motors are not getting enough power it may be the battery or power control & supply circuit for motors check it first. if does not work try new propellers with a greater pitch angle. your previous stick drone has a larger propeller to generate thrust .

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

I will try everything I can to reduce weight, better power control, and yes, bigger propellers. Thanks!

[@jmibk]

Have you tried to block with a 47u tantal and 100n next to the radio module and mcu? Maybe an rc filter can help blocking spikes from locations, that have no chance to work with them. Are there bigger propellers available? The spinning direction is false. Opposite propellers have to spin in same direction, because they have to cancel out the rotating drift of the drone with a force through the weigt center of the drone.

[@dbugman68]

Great work, still can't sleep....

[@theevilvegetablepatch9873]

This is awesome! Nice job my friend 😀

[@Znkank]

Great work again!

[@allawhussein]

Maybe a 2s lipo battery (but same wieght or so) may solve all the problems, lifting, radio, and resetting

[@dtesta]

What did you use for controlling the motors? Some specific motor-controller or just transistors/mosfets and PWM? If so, which mosfets did you use? As far as I can tell, those motors has a stall maximum current of 2A, so I guess any transistors that can handle up to 2A should work fine? Thanks!

[@mircoheitmann]

I think hot glue might be a bit too heavy aswell, and if you make the next PCB a bit bigger maybe you can fit bigger propellers on, maybe with more pitch too (then you're back at the gear problem though). Also a 2S LiPo should give you a bit more power, just make sure your motors and other components are fine with the higher voltage.

[@mohitarora1701]

Ur background of video is awesome( i mean the circuit boards) 👌

[@microdesigns2000]

Cool video. 1) There looks like a lot of circuit board real estate that is not being used. How about reducing the weight by cutting out most of the center of the board? 2) The board is wide in the area of the propellers. The propellers are working to blow on the board, where energy is lost by a change of direction. And there is probably with a bit of turbulence. How about making the for arms on separate boards that solder onto the main board? Or, have no main board, but just two boards attached as a cross shape. Question: You awesomely used solder paste to attach the processor. Why didn't you solder all the passive components the same way. Your killing me Smalls. :)

[@amosfalcon6190]

Why don’t you remote the quadcopter with your nRF24L01 RC controller? Or the nRF24L01 sketch is useless?

[@sahanathuraliya]

Hello, is this code suitable for the brushed esc? I saw this is used for brushless esc. Aren't any different between brushed and brushless ESC ?

[@marcinwitkowski6443]

5:21 soldering is not good try to use 1206instead of 0805. and use some flux or better solder, iron on 300 C in it will bee niece and clear. heat joint put some solder on ona pad, after solder this pad to 1206 and solder another....

[@yuraamirov7893]

Hey Man , not sure if i saw properly but did you connected the high voltage to LDO output ? if so you are shortcuting power rails ( pcb/ldo/componnents damage also power waste as a bonus :) ) ping me if you need any help with power conections , i can review it.

[@arduinoforlife]

Hey sir I made this drone but with big and high rpm dc motors and as.per tge cpnnections but when I send data to the reciever from the transmitter it recieves for some time but after some its lost. I have configured the drone with multiwii win gui 2.2, and also set the correct pid value please reply🙂🙂

[@MuslimEng765]

I also tried but this motor needed more voltage and appropriate driver, But I will make it happen it will take some times. Thanks for your videos

[@MrWilliam932]

I'm looking forward to this project, And when I finish my current project (An 8-Bit Computer) I will maybe design my own drone idk... Oh and a few tips: I recommend you not to remove the ground plane, it protects the signal traces from rf interferences, but you can remove A LOT of PCB, the PCB is WAY too big for that little drone, also, reducing the size of the arms is a good idea just leave the absolute necessary space for the traces and let less mass of thrust to be blocked by the motor , I would the transistor and the diode into the PCB body not on the arms so they don't create so much inertia. Also for stability purposes, The acc/gyro chip needs to be at the center of mass as exactly as possible that's more important than put the uC in the center. Have a great day :D

[@marcuswetterbro8455]

I would recommend a smaller battery with a high c rating ( the C rating is important)

[@sadielectricalelectronicss8595]

You are a genius

[@mdasaduzzaman152]

S12302 MOSFET is not available in my country so, which mosfet will suitable for this?

[@Resonanc3]

Place the Motors on a weight scale and check the thrust, i'm not sure the weight is the main problem, as you can see the quadcopter rotates on the z axis, i think something is wrong with the code or the motors themself, looks like if they rotate much more CW than CCW

[@Resonanc3]

Watching the video more carefully you can see that sometimes the black-propelled-motors "freeze" badly while the Red ones are still spinning, I don't know if they freeze for real or just the frequency is reduced and because of the camera It looks like they are freezing, but something is for sure going on, there is no balance between CW and CCW

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thank you for the tips. I'll try more on this for a future version

[@RMW360]

Why didn't you use soldering paste for soldering ?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

RMW 360 I did use but not for all components...

[@RMW360]

That is my question , why

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

for capacitors and other 2 pin components it's easier for me to just use the soldering iron and solder wire.

[@RMW360]

Oh ! Ok

[@RMW360]

What is the total weight of PCB version of the drone ?

[@-AVAVV-]

Hey, how does the sterring system work? Do you like add 5% more power on the back rotors to go forward or what?

[@Vikas_Singh_Kushwaha]

Bro to decrease the weight pls do not solder nrf and mpu6050 modules with headers they are the main problem remove the soldered headers from it and solder it to the main PCB like smd . Just like esp8266 12 e module is surface mounted on node mcu board.

[@rctechmods8165]

Hey I saw lot of quadcopter receiver boards I've noticed 1 thing. There is vcc gnd clock and data connections on back of all boards can I connect mpu6050 or 6000 gyroscope and accelerometer module to it if in case my gyro chip is broken

[@lagging_barish3736]

Keep up the good work.

[@emmanuelsheshi1553]

I really love your vedios. More grace sir

[@lucasfalcon4079]

Some dc motors does not spin as well in both directions. It seems like the motors spinning counter clockwise spin better than those who spin clockwise, as the quad spins around when trying to lift off. Don't know what you could do about it though. Keep it up!

[@cwlbroeders]

awesome project

[@PhG1961]

Awesome video !!

[@ansarahmed4631]

I can bet that the direction of propeller is not correct. I have made drone with brushed motor and faced same problem. After I connected the propeller in right direction It worked pretty well.

[@ansarahmed4631]

Dear Electron noob recheck the direction of propeller. You are only one step away from making the drone fly.

[@ansarahmed4631]

Waiting for the next video in which I will be able to see your drone flying.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

No. Propeller direction is not the problem. Thank you!

[@dtesta]

MultiWii is really old and pretty much a "dead" project. Btw, why are you not using a esp8266 or esp32 instead? Then you can use wifi or EPS-NOW to control the drone and completely remove the need for the radio-receiver. If you use WiFi, you can even use a phone to control the drone.

[@snailsec]

great work bro :))

[@marwansameer8255]

Hii Can i know what the program that used in your computer that you checked the position and angle of the drone

[@bktechnologies88]

I love this guy I've shared your video my family and friends and they loved it😍😍 sometime I'd try supporting you in your Patreon but my question is that if I add a barometric sensor do i also need to code it and can I use any other n channel MOSFET

[@rimjhim4278]

lovely videos mate

[@justinchoo9468]

Great video tutorial electronoobs! May I know how the PID values are set for the flight controller? Did you obtain the PID values from multiwii itself or through trial and error?

[@aninnymoose720]

This is hella scripted. Guy was just guessing throwing capacitors at it

[@ihrkanntmichma9454]

So why exactly are you using those small props? Are the motors maxing out with bigger ones and without a gearbox? If you chose the props just for geometry, try a tri-blade with about the same size. Or similar props with a steeper pitch. Other than that, the nrf24 module is great, but a pain in the butt when it comes to powering it. It doesn't like to be underpowered, but overpowering it might kill it. Ask me how I know :D Anywayz, thanks for the video, these projects that 'almost work' can become quite frustrating... Edit: The center part of the PCB does not look too tightly packed. I think you can save quite a bit of weight there in the next revision.

[@personalTutorSobanShaukat]

Sir, I have a question... which Software are you using in the video. Can you please tell the name of that software? thanks...

[@techclashdynamics3033]

Your videos are great! When can we expect part 4?

[@matthewparsons4955]

An AMS1117 voltage regulator should work for 3.3 v as outputs 800 mA

[@AhmetTasdemirDJLuds]

Did you work with andruav 3g telemetry with mission Planner ?

[@EasyElectronics2412]

Awesome got new thing to learn😊

[@gabrieltaurean4146]

You mentioned in the video the price of the components,can you recommend any online store one could get those?

[@MrFaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa]

What LDO did you switch to?

[@chinmaykulkarni7835]

What's the range after using NRF module and also can we replicate transmitter circuit

[@dwieztro6748]

hii..my motor does'nt stop when 0% and not full speed while100% throtle. what should i do? i using SI2302 mosfet.

[@raghavsrivastava2910]

Use a buck converter for 3.3 voltage.

[@shutdahellup69420]

Raghav Srivastava it would be kinda heavy for the quad

[@raghavsrivastava2910]

Shut da hell up yes but would be efficient

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

might complicate the board too much but I'll have that on my improvements list.

[@JanCiger]

That would be a very important fix because a LiPo goes anywhere between 4.2V (fully charged) down to 3V (when you want to cut off to prevent overdischarging). Driving the radio from the LiPo directly is a great way to destroy it (or rather to drastically shorten its life, it may not fail outright), the voltage spec for the nRF2401A is 1.9-3.6V only. If you want to save a regulator and only drop down the voltage to a safe level you could use a diode with Vf of about 0.5-0.7V. However, the regulator also ensures the radio has a "clean" power, without the various noise and current spikes from the MCU and the motors.

[@matthewparsons4955]

An AMS1117 voltage regulator should work for 3.3 v as outputs 800 mA

[@mohamedelaminebouhadjer3068]

The multiwii show me that my transmitteur is working and same thing with gyro but the motors diden't even work what should be the problem here ?

[@YoDay]

Lovely drone.

[@ishanasodariya6351]

Hey I also built a 3d printed mini drone using a code given by you my drone is flying but I don't know for some reason it's continuously rotating in one direction. It's properly flying horizontally. I have tired to tune pid values, check the propeller direction, tried everything!! Still spinning 😐

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Maybe if you ad a magnetometer... Also check yaw values...

[@mobzi2644]

il its slowly spining try to adjust the yaw trim on your transmitter, mayne it's slightly of and make the drone spin

[@ishanasodariya6351]

No I have tried to adjust the trim settings. But still nothing

[@ishanasodariya6351]

It's spinning fast

[@ahlamsaeed2475]

When I had this problem in the past the problem turned out to be the way my motors were spinning. When I checked online the orientation was different from cleanflight. So I swapped the yaw motors rotation and everything worked for both my micro and mini drone. Good luck!!!

[@electronic7979]

Excellent

[@chetanmanchanda5130]

Change motors to 8520 coreless motor if it sill continues than add a gear to increase the trust

[@sunilkumar-ls2yb]

Hlo sir Plz tell me which transistor u r using ans which diode to power motor

[@justsomedude4660]

use a diode, it will drop the voltage for the nrf.

[@chahiradjedir7614]

Hi please what is the solution to control a Submarine based with an Arduino wirelessly and if the radio control works underwater

[@naseefalipv8104]

I am totally in sad my multiwii not working. an error 'a fatel error is detected by java runtime environment' what can I do .

[@adit8206]

if u had hot air gun then y did u use soldering iron for other SMD components it looks really bad soldering job

[@ahmetenesgormez8662]

I am using arduino nano +3.7v coreless motors +nrf24 module +380mah 3.7v 25C lipo battery. Do you think it will work as well?

[@ahmetenesgormez8662]

And Irf640n mosfets

[@SS-zj1yg]

Why you dont fill the board with copper?