Are Cold Starts Bad? Should you Idle or Just Drive to Warm Up?

[@KurtofTrades]

If you found this helpful consider sending me a Super Thanks with the icon below the video, ❤💰 I will buy a Coffee with it! ☕

[@jerryfacts9749]

I used to do engine and transmission rebuilds in my younger days. When the engine is cold the piston rings, bushings, and bearings are tight. Does not matter if it is a new type of engine or an older type engine. The thermal co-efficiency of the various metal parts are not exactly the matched and are nearly impossible to be exactly matched, and the cooler oil does not lubricate as well as when it is hot. The worse thing you can do is race an engine when it is cold. This makes for excessive wear, and can promote early failure. When starting in the cold let the engine idle for about 1 minute max. On an extremely cold day you can idle it a bit longer. Remember, when starting on a cold day the transmission is also cold. Start driving but very gently. Don't drive a cold engine hard until it warms up. It will warm up faster when driven. Once the engine and transmission are at normal temperature you can drive the car normally, or if you want to drive it a bit harder. With any engine and transmission, if you drive it easy all the time everything will last longer. Make sure you do your oil changes and maintenance on schedule. Driving hard will make for quicker ware of parts, burn more gasoline, and will shorten the lifespan of the tires. The need for making stops from higher speed and aggressive driving will also wear down the breaks much faster. Hard drivers make the service centers more rich!

[@nickv4073]

Agree 100% Just drive slowly until the car is warmed up. It ain't rocket science.

[@Blnd602]

Also have more fun😂😂

[@reinac1]

My dad was a mechanic and yes, EVERYTHING you said is what I was taught, and makes more sense. It's not just engine to think about, transmission is essential as well. Love your comment ❤️

[@InfoSecGuardian]

Jerryfacts9749 explanation is the right one... much more accurate than the video. I would just add three more points. 1) A feature was first added to the Corvette many years ago to cut the available horsepower until the engine reached operating temperatures. 2) Rotary engines require longer warm-up periods. The operating manual says 5 minutes. 3) YOU WILL NOT KNOW immediately if YOU CAUSED ENGINE DAMAGE by driving hard on a cold engine. The symptoms develop slow just like habits develop human ailments like heart decease. I guess one more thing.... This is exactly why I only buy new vehicles. I don't trust that the person before treated the engine and transmission in a manner that promotes longevity. I'm not into buying other peoples problems.

[@bobbydigital4845]

Well Stated Sir 😎👍👍👍

[@BL00DYME55]

I never sit and purposefully wait for the engine to warm up, however I don't just drive off the second the engine is running. Normally, as soon as I get in, the first thing I do is start the car. After that I go on my phone, connect to bluetooth, pick a song on spotify, chuck my vape in the cup holder, take off my coat, just basically do a bunch of boring "getting ready to drive" stuff. Once I'm done with all of that and the seatbelt is fastened, the car had been idling for at least a couple of minutes, which imo is enough to start driving. I still don't rev it high, since I live in the city there aren't many opportunities to red line it anyway. I drive normally, changing gears at 3000 RPM max. By the time I get to the motorway/highway the engine should be warm enough to floor it.

[@Unknown-dg1fj]

Yh thats how i wait exactly the same 😂😂

[@Unknown-dg1fj]

Yh thats how i wait exactly the same 😂😂

[@FLbowtieguy]

Anyone know why my tru😢 doesn't have the roar from the exhaust when firing it up on cold start..it used to sound so good ..

[@mediumTierGod]

L vape lol stop acting cool

[@501Labsmusic]

​@@mediumTierGodL comment. Stop judging people and live your own life.

[@StoicOutlaw17]

I don’t care how late I am I’m not moving till the rpms drop.

[@ryanayr743]

That has nothing to do with it

[@bricknplay]

Yes it has. Oil pressure is a thing.

[@ryanayr743]

@@bricknplay it takes 5 seconds to build oil pressure at max. the high rpms are only for the cat

[@DriftingStudent]

@@ryanayr743in a 2024 car maybe😂 and still that’s exaggerated

[@ryanayr743]

@@DriftingStudent no

[@charliec5653]

I live in the frozen tundra known as Minnesota. In the winter, i let my vehicle idle for a good 5-10 minues before I take off. During that time, i scrape the windshield and dust off any snow. By that time, I'm ready to go. I still take it slow until I get to the main road. By that time, I'm getting heat.

[@juodbkdbucihughghhhh]

Just use an oil a little lighter if your location get digits oe less. (ALWAYS I MEAN ALWAYS USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. For instance if your recommended oil is 5w30 because of the extreme cold you might want to run 0w30 0r 0w40 and also keep your coolant mixture about 70% coolant 30% water not that 50/50 stuff and your engine will run100x better and warm up super quick trust and believe I've been working on cars for about 22 years and not car has ever given me an issue. Now in spring/summer when you change your oil you can go back to the higher recommended number say 5w30 just make sure you always use synthetic full time because depending if you just commute most of the time not too much road trips most high end synthetic oils are good for about 10,000 miles. Dont actually try to wait 10,000 cause it says that. I put castrol thats good to 20,000 i just change it right when spring hits even if I only have 7,500 just keep it to 6 month intervals and only use factory oil filters they are the best for your specific vehicle and cheap. ALSO the heat off if you're and start and go person because your thermostat wont open til you car is fully warm so coolant wont flow right and coolant is your source for the warmth of your heater.

[@juodbkdbucihughghhhh]

If you live in a place where winter hits single digits or less you should put a lower weight oil. For instance if your recommended oil is 5w30 because of the extreme cold you might want to run 0w30 0r 0w40 and also keep your coolant mixture about 70% coolant 30% water not that 50/50 stuff and your engine will run100x better and warm up super quick trust and believe I've been working on cars for about 22 years and not car has ever given me an issue. Now in spring/summer when you change your oil you can go back to the higher recommended number say 5w30 just make sure you always use synthetic full time because depending if you just commute most of the time not too much road trips most high end synthetic oils are good for about 10,000 miles. Dont actually try to wait 10,000 cause it says that. I put castrol thats good to 20,000 i just change it right when spring hits even if I only have 7,500 just keep it to 6 month intervals and only use factory oil filters they are the best for your specific vehicle and cheap. ALSO the heat off if you're and start and go person because your thermostat wont open til you car is fully warm so coolant wont flow right and coolant is your source for the warmth of your heater.

[@seanshapiro414]

Right next door to you in Wisconsin we grew up letting our car's warm up

[@aztrose1023]

I just let it sit until it pops out of high idle then drive lightly until it's fully warmed up.

[@Spoolingturbski]

That’s what I do. After the idle drops it’s okay to drive lightly and it allows the car to warm up faster leaving less time for it to continue running at colder temps.

[@johnmadsen37]

Typically, a cold start will start with a slightly higher rpm. Once it’s warm enough, it will lower the rpm’s to the normal idle. It takes a couple minutes depending upon temperature.

[@haithemelforjani2297]

The best & most right comment

[@mike3886]

Best comment I’ve seen so far. I always wait until my rpms settle down to normal idle then gently drive until it hits operating temp.

[@Davewhipped]

I was about to comment this.

[@midwestjeff]

100% my car starts and idles at 1500 rpm then after 5 min or so it lowers to 1000rpm and then I will begin my drive.

[@ec6843]

Modern cars are so fuel efficient that they will not burn enough fuel at idle to sufficiently warm the engine in any reasonable amount of time. Best to allow them to warm up for a minute or two and then drive off slowly and keep your revs below about 2500 rpm.

[@XxQuan_clipz]

Not my mustang

[@mothmagic1]

Not just modern cars any vehicle with an internal combustion engine. I'm 76 and was taught that back when I was learning to drive at 17.

[@rafaelrivera9346]

Negative, the thermostat should keep the coolant at a minimum allowing the engine to warm up. If you have a defective thermostat valve it will take the engine longer to warm up. The efficiency is not what keeps it from warming up. Also cold car will rev higher at start until a pre set time or temp or sensor reading is achieved.

[@GeraldGuevara]

Modern cars actually run really rich and in open loop mode when it's cold. When it's warm enough then it runs closed loop and uses the sensors to get the best air/fuel ratio. Above freezing it doesn't take that long to run closed loop mode.

[@1Daveable]

silly, modern engines are smaller an heat faster - also thermostat

[@pokedude104]

there's definitely a happy medium. On exceptionally cold mornings I start it up and wait until I start feeling some heat in my heated seat before I get moving, which is usually less than a minute or two. The key is I NEVER rev the car above 2500 or so until the engine is fully up to temperature. Depending on your commute and if you need to get on the highway or not you may want to wait a little longer. My house is a pretty good distance from the highway, about 10 minutes drive to the onramp so no issues there but from work its literally about 30 seconds to the onramp so often I'll wait until the temperature gauge starts to move until I take off. Switching to full synthetic oil is a good idea too since it has better cold flow than regular oil.

[@vampirerevin]

Well as a mechanic who rebuilds engines for a living, I can tell you with 100% certainty that jumping in your car when it is cold, as in below 30, and starting it and just driving will do quite a lot of damage in the 5 to 10 miles it takes to warm the oil,water,and transmission fluid to operating temperature ,in both your engine,and especially the transmission's in the newer model cars and trucks..cams, Pistons, especially piston rings, require lots of oil quickly as soon as you vehicle starts, thick oil is not good for those aluminum rings at all..there is a reason that the manufacturers manual states OPERATING TEMPTURE.... Because the new transmission's in everything from 2000 on that do not have dipsticks, have very thin glass tubes inside...and guess what happens when glass doesn't warm up, and then suddenly does???? Yup it busts very quickly....so yes 100% warm your car up slowly in idle, unless of course you want to come see me....or someone like me...

[@odin-i-4592]

I have a question, the RAMs with the 5.7 hemi, is it still good to be sat there idle to warm up? I hear that being idle with that engine is bad because the oil can't lubricate very well being idle

[@chrisp3012]

This dude is tripping idle your car or truck he has no clue what he is talking about i feel bad for his car the worst this you can do for a motor is run it cold you are 50% more likely to break something when the motor is cold any shop or mechanic race car driver anyone like that will tell you to warm your car at least some even drag cars are warmed some before a run !! Even before a dyno the car is warmed some not enough to have heat soak, but just a little bit dude is tripping 😂

[@chrisp3012]

​@odin-i-4592 not true at all the oil pump still pumps oil just the same in fact, the oil pump has to work harder to pump the oil. When the engine is cold because the oil is thick, so if you just run the vehicle, you're actually going to do more damage than letting it idle. That's a scientifical fact. Lol google it for your self ... also, you can look in your dealer handbook.. Some manufacturers have it, located in there as well

[@rafaelrivera9346]

I’m a mechanic engineer and a mechanic as a hobby. If the thermostat is working right and depending on the starting temperature I will idol until the auto high ideal drops down to normal plus a minute. Usually for my six at 30 deg that’s about 3 minute. For my 4 cylinder that’s about 2 minutes. Then I stick to easy driving the next 2 or 3 minutes or until the temperature is within rage. Both of my cars are 22+ years old and running fine.

[@JungRich313]

Hey man you made a great point about the engine idling with cooler oil and that possibly causing damage over the long run. But, you also don't want to RAPIDLY unleash the volley of combustion (immediately gunning it to the freeway without giving it a minute or two). Not letting your car idle for a minute or two before putting the engine and transmission under strain (transitioning from cold to hot rapidly) puts extra wear the engine metals and materials causing them to expand and contract faster than a gradual temperature increase. I think the answer is in the middle. Give it a minute or two to warm then start driving, not taking off immediately or letting it warm up too slowly and circulating that cold oil.

[@18_rabbit]

i just do what the designers in engineering call for as ideal. To take off as soon as possible with slow easy driving until the temp's are higher. This is one of those areas where overthinking is BAD for your engine, i.e we easily can end up thinking we're babying the engine by idling a bit longer, and actually we are causing vastly more wear to the bearings, journals, pistons, etc. U want warm up to happen as rapidly as possible. Idling takes vastly too long, esp the colder the ambient temps are.

[@Dan-uq4mf]

I’ve been driving cars for 20 years and let them idle for 10 min went past 200k

[@anteneupitra]

after yous tart it, there si no problem if runs cold for sometime..

[@anteneupitra]

@@18_rabbit you pe+ple are paranoid engine runs cold with no problem,, oil is preared to work in different temps ists calle multigrade goes from 5 to 40 viscosity for example.. problem is hard drive cold or start too many times..

[@kylereberly2467]

The only thing I will say is for engines... Sure, but what about questioning your transmission? And the more sensitive parts that goes with your transmission? Arguably, it will not be warm anytime quicker than your engine (takes longer by default) and transmissions are equally as important as engines but debatably less durable. I would even say this doubles for manual transmissions where the engine coolant line is the transmission cooler/heater. So me personally when considering the cold and mechanics . You have to consider all the parts, not just the engine.

[@egx161]

I think it’s ok either way. Oil changes are more important. Change early and often. Change your coolant early.

[@JimV90]

The happy place is somewhere in the middle. My argument against just starting up and immediately taking off, is that although you may be minimizing the amount of time that the car's oil is cold, you are adding more wear and tear actually driving it at say 2k-3k rpms vs letting it idle sitting at roughly 800-1200rpms for example. The other issue with cold running is that metals need time to expand and adjust to temperature differences, and sudden high rpm driving(assuming you do this) can put extra stress on all the components and lead to premature failure... My 2 cents.

[@isaihgloria7346]

The guy literally said he redlines it a minute in he’s completely stupid. “Oh it didn’t break down” yeah but if you treat your car like shit it will break down at 70k versus 300,000 miles. Then he’ll be confused and say it was because he just got unlucky. Loser stuff.

[@gumpy4960]

Cold Idling causes more wear and high rpm on a cold engine would cause more wear so just drive at low load and low rpm.

[@Barrie562]

Another factor to warm up or not before driving is if your at the bottom of a steep hill and the only way to go is straight up - might be a good idea in that situation to warm the engine up a bit in the driveway, sit in the cold car for 5 minutes or so and rev up to 2000 after a minute or two and then tackle the steep hill.

[@erjonjoni1434]

Going immediately directly down hill is just as bad. The engine is going high RPM trying to engine break.

[@earvinpiamonte]

@Barrie562, have this exact situation! I wait for around 5 mins before tackling a steep hill. question, what could be the impact if I don't warm up the engine for this situation? thanks

[@Barrie562]

@@earvinpiamonte In climbing any hill esp a steep one the engine of course will rev up faster than on a level road so it's going to need more oil flowing faster which it will do when heated after any kind of warm up, so the impact would be greater engine wear

[@earvinpiamonte]

@@Barrie562 ,right right. previously, I was having issues with ATF leaking on the breather hose, could this be caused by the engine/ transmission not warm enough then climbing uphill? we got moderately steep driveway btw then uphill for around a min and a half @ Low gear before a level road

[@CasamTheAnimator]

No it's not a good idea, as the air going to the cylinders isn't warm enough, and there is probably a possibility that the engine can stall.

[@roketfingers]

the main issue is that the oil is still too cold to be at the proper thickness and wont flow as well. this wont ruin your engine anytime soon, but it will wear out bearings in the long run

[@patriotsouthern8123]

Modern cars run on very light oil that flows at any temp

[@roketfingers]

@@patriotsouthern8123 nothing to do with oil being at proper temp and thickness when warmed

[@FLEKS_SGU]

@@patriotsouthern8123 hahahahahah

[@gyula6516]

​@@patriotsouthern8123inform yourself or find out.

[@ihd-3603]

You get more filter bypass on cold oil with higher rpm’s than at idle until the oil warms up.

[@kjeldpedersen666]

Nice to be explained this in a serious and calm way. A lot of people here on KZbin is hysterically full of: ‘STOP doing like this!!!” or “ALWAYS do that!!!”

[@user-lm9yb5ng8r]

Most cars have a warm up process that lasts about 30-45 seconds in normal weather, up to 3 minutes in cold weather. You'll notice your rpm will be about 500-800 higher when you first start the car and will drop down after that initial 30-45 seconds.

[@googleaccount2637]

Reaching operating temperature is more about proper expansion of all the different metals reaching their full dimensions.

[@Cfchild1]

Another thing to consider is that prolonged idling from a cold start also saturates the engine oil with more blow-by vapors and gasoline as the pistons and rings aren't fully sealing until they reach the same temperature as cylinder bores in the engine block. The fuel metering system will be providing more fuel and less air intake (choke) as a cold engine requires more fuel to run properly. This is why timely oil changes are more important if you do a lot of cold start short distance stop and go driving as the engine oil becomes more quickly saturated with combustion byproducts and gasoline.

[@jeremyrimmer9247]

Totally agree that it’s best to set off pretty much right after starting up. I’ll always drive the car gently till both coolant and most importantly the oil is up to normal operating temperature. When the car is parked outside on a cold snowy or frosty night, I’ll put a small 900 watt heater in the driver’s foot well. I’lll put it on a timer switch so as to save energy. This works really well. It’s so nice to come out to the car in the morning with a warm interior and clear windows!

[@StopNLean]

My mom bought a 2015 jetta foe 15k new, she has not driven it yet without letting it warm up and settle after turning it on. The car is in great shape and so far has no issues 10 years down the line.

[@maddogfargo3153]

Cold oil does not cause damage. LACK of oil / oil pressure allows the metal surfaces to touch. THAT causes damage. This is a concern because when oil is cold it is thicker and does not flow as easily. Therefore, you want to minimize the stress you put on the engine until it is warmed up. Many modern engines will even electronically 'de-tune' themselves until the oil reaches operating temperature. And your owner's manual may even have instructions to keep the engine below a certain RPM range until it is warmed up. Mine recommends

[@anthonymcclain8264]

It depends on the age of the vehicle. My Nissan Pathfinder with 305,000 miles needs to warm up before I take off driving. The car runs rough when it’s cold 🥶

[@jeffgriffith7003]

I can’t get reverse to work in my old truck unless I warm up the engine first, I can go forward but not back. Lol

[@jerryfacts9749]

@@jeffgriffith7003 If it is an automatic, not going in to reverse till hot it can be an issue with the sleeve bushing that engages the planetary gear for direction switch. That is if it is the type of design I am thinking about. This would be expensive to service because it means taking apart the transmission. Once done there may be other warn parts that must be replaced, gaskets, and a fair number of parts. Then there is the time involved. Better to leave the transmission alone. As for myself, if the vehicle is in excellent condition I would look for a deal another transmission. I don't trust used transmissions.

[@edwardcornell1263]

I hear what you are saying, however as a subaru owner as well, i have to disagree with you on almost everything. A subaru mechanic on youtube said when it comes to warming up subarus it is best to wait til the blue light turns off before putting car in drive. It is a subaru thing. Now on my subaru i do not have that stupid blue light, i listen and watch the temperature gauge. When it gets to 145 degrees F, then I put car in gear. At 145 my subaru switches from the cold enrichment table to the warm, the oil pressures drops from 100 psi to something less, and my oil temperature is over 100 degrees F. My car builds up heat enough at idle, because the themostat is doing its job, by not opening until set temperature. As far as gas is concerned you will burn just as much if not more gas while driving a cold engine, because you are in the cold enrichment table. So saving fuel is out of the question. Also keep in mind with a cold engine the o2 needs to heat up just to smell the exhaust gasses. So your air/fuel mixture will be off, also causing you burn more gas until engine is at temp. At the end of the day, the choice is the drivers preference. Btw sounds lile you have some drive belts that need to be tightened if not replaced.

[@2009kdizzle]

My Audi hand manual specifically says to idle and let the car warm up before taking off. It also says to let it idle for a bit before shutting off

[@JB-ls5pq]

If it is a turbo it makes sense (to me) Is it a turbo?

[@WOTPOLSKA_PRO]

Thank you for this opinion about warming car idle, I didn't think that it will actually be worse as its running on cold engine for longer time. Now I think its better to start engine, wait for a few seconds, go slowly at first, let it get some heat and then get it to higher rpm, wait a bit more if you got turbo or smth 😊

[@rwestbrook6724]

well here's something they aren't telling you. every engine has an oil pump that circulates the oil when the thing is running, different viscosity oils perform with specified properties at different temps, automatic transmissions also have a oil pump that circulates the fluid when the engine is running, the engine drives the pump for the transmission fluid circulation throughout the hydraulic circuit, coolant also is being circulated when the engine is running via the water pump, to the radiator and heater core, engine temperature is controlled by the thermostat and radiator cooling fan. as long as all the fluids are within specification's and the component hardware is functioning as intended including wise ownership of the vehicle, monitoring levels and component conditions, you can let your car pre-warm for a 10 minutes plus pre-drive conditions without harming anything in the driveline in the cold weather, I myself have idled as long as 15/20 minutes. all this is happening at an idle or 1500rpm and higher, it has nothing to do with a carburetor, in fact I personally recommend it, get some defrosting done while you brush the snow off the thing and refill that travel coffee mug, get the sound tuned in and verify phone connectivity before hitting the road, safety starts with truth of the facts, and now you know. this guy

[@Dan-uq4mf]

I let mine idle for at least 10 min and my cars went into the 200k mile range. Driving off too soon it starts making weird noises and doesn’t drive as it shoud for me at least

[@Daniel-hq5my]

​@@Dan-uq4mfyou made a point. Caring and having genuine interest in your car is what leads to being able to hear and even feel when your car engine and components are at great operating temp, after having rode long time and being familiar with it. I personally also feel when the car wants or doesn't want to run, given outside temp or other factors. Also there is more behind this, so idling and caring is a way for car enthusiast to show other and themselves that enthusiasm, and car indifferent people don't want to be considered as less knowing their vehicle just for not caring so much.

[@SStarlight9614]

Exactly what I do. I start my car as soon as I can tap the brake and my push start button. Then I wait at least 30 seconds for the oil pump to pump the oil as per recommendation from my manufacture's owner's manual. If it's cold enough for the engine to have a fast idle, I also wait for that to drop, and that can take up to 5-10 minutes depending on how high and how cold it is. As I'm doing this I'm getting my phone connected walking around my car making sure my tires aren't flat and just getting myself prepared for the drive while my car is essentially preparing itself as well.

[@inyourhomefitness2452]

Spring, summer and fall, I never warm up, but winter here is brutally cold. It’s not the warming up I think about , but I can see out my windshield, side windows or back window. So if I can’t see out of those windows I warm up and if I can see out of those windows, I waited about 30 seconds and leave. But that’s very rare. I would love just to hop in my car and go but when you got an inch of ice on your windshield and can’t see zip, that does not work.

[@Julius1225]

4:08 I don't agree with you....sorry ! Modern cars,differrent oil ,etc. And the car it will not warm up in 2-3 minutes drive to normal temperature in special when it is -20 C or more. Need at least a good 10 minutes drive to reach that "normal" temperature. As a mechanic..I suggest to run your car at least 5 minutes before you will drive . Good for you and very healthy for your car :)))

[@Joeker8171]

Agree with you

[@jeremylehman8177]

Metal is weak when it's cold. So if it's 18°, and you start your car up and drive right away, your piston rings won't last long. At idle, your exhaust and combustion isn't as hot as when you're driving. So warm up at idle is better. You will warp and weaken the black and heads if it goes from freezing to extremely hot. Another thing to look at it load. When you put your car in gear it now has load on the engine, this will make more heat than with no load. So, heavier your vehicle, the more load on the engine wile cold. Cars maybe ok to drive cold because of less weight being pulled or pushed. When I use my truck, the exhaust temp is way higher taking off pulling a trailer then not pulling one at normal acceleration. It is definitely not good for your motor to be at -20° then start up and take off where I can see 1,000°+ exhaust temp. Way too much shock on the metal.

[@aidenp5768]

my exact thought, well said

[@warmsunset62]

Thank you for your opinion. As I see what you are saying. My Mazda 3 2018 petrol, initially, has high revs for about 10 - 15 seconds, then drops. The manufacturers have made it so. So they know what they are doing. Thank you. No more waiting / hanging around. ( an extra few minutes in bed - especially in winter hee hee ).

[@r.a.8618]

I just experienced it myself few weeks ago before watching this video. Glad that I came up with the same conclusion as yours.

[@imkriswithak1135]

I used to warm up until the blue light turns off, but it takes sooo long. I also have just atarted and driven off. I do notice the engine drives/feels differently. My solution is to warm up for a few minutes depending how cold it is. At least 5 min. Then i dont drive like a maniac until the light goes off.

[@thekingd9390]

I have a 2021 Toyota Tacoma and when it"s cold outside especially below freezing, the transmission shifts a little bit rough rough for the first few minutes so this is the reason I choose to warm up my vehicle for about 5 minutes. once it's up to normal operating temp it smooths right out. I think the transmission fluid viscosity gets thicker with colder temps and doesn't flow quite as smooth. Vehicle's are designed to run at their normal operating temperature especially over the next few days it's supposed to be well below zero degrees here in Maine. Not warming up your vehicle in extreme cold does more harm than good in my opinion. I used to drive a Subaru with a manual transmission and when it's really cold outside even that wouldn't shift as smooth until its warmed up a little. cold temps thicken fluid without a doubt. WARM IT UP

[@hemi7448]

Your temps are rated at operating temp and 0° Celsius (32F) naturally if it’s below 0 your fluids are going to be too thick.

[@Dan-uq4mf]

Exactly. I had a manual always warmed it up the 5 speed shifted a lot easier too

[@samng6540]

Exactly. I got 2019 Ram 1500 and my car also need few minutes to warm up the trans fluid

[@johnarcher9480]

If it takes longer to warm up at slow RPM, but that longer time is causing damage, how is revving your engine reducing wear. If it’s super cold out, start and idle for a short time. It doesn’t need to get up to temp. It just needs to let the oil thin out if it is super cold out. That doesn’t take long. If it is a comfortable day, just drive (but take it easy for a little while. I’m not sure cars are “made to take this”. I don’t think most MFGs care if you damage your motor. Either way, the damage is likely to take years to manifest.

[@77GR1982]

Your engine will WEAR OUT Faster if you start driving right away, actually. The goal here is to warm up your engine with the least possible RPMs. A good rule of thumb is warming up your engine for at least 3-5 minutes.

[@foulcult5240]

Sources for your claim?

[@mihailcirlig8187]

You ain't thinking about the transmission, engine will slowly warm up but l the trans. especially in an automatic vehicle will remain stationary and cold. Start the car but go reeealy slow, like sub 2000 rpms after 30 seconds of idling, thus is the best way to warm up everything

[@pedrorivera2308]

It doesn't matter what you do,,you have to start your car,,and i agree on waiting and let your vehicle warm up ,,let it get to temperature and let your engine lubricate. Driving away after turning the vehicle on and driving will cause engine wear,,sooo let your car warm up even if brand spanking new !!!!

[@joshriver75]

It isn't just about cold oil. Fuel itself is a factor. "Experts" say since cold starts run rich until warm and fuel is a solvent, you are essentially "washing" away less available oil with more fuel for a longer periods of time. However..I am still firmly in the warm it up club. 'Friction' is the mechanism that heats the engine up. Friction is also the very thing that wears an engine out. My logic still tells me that keeping an engines load as low as possible, until a normal operating temp is achieved, is producing less unwanted friction than forcing an engine to warm up by driving off easily. Idling still uses less fuel and less load than gentle driving for the goal of achieving a warm engine. I've been driving and personally maintaining my 2000 Lexus LS400 for 19 years currently at 386,000 miles and I've always let it warm up to some degree before driving away.

[@user-p97g6mvbh]

i got a 2004 ls430 and i usually wait for the rpm to drop closer to 1k since it has a high idle during the first few minutes.

[@joshriver75]

@@user-p97g6mvbh Nice! 04-06 LS430 Best car on the planet ever made.

[@user-p97g6mvbh]

@@joshriver75 my friend has a 93 ls400 with 70k miles, love the look of the ls400s, they all remind me of old mercedes cars.

[@bobbylee6859]

If you have oil to wash away in your cylinders then you need a rebuild. C'mon dude.

[@joshriver75]

@@bobbylee6859 Doesn't seem like you fully understand

[@jamesgilbert-e8f]

I think just gentle variation in engine speed for a few mins to build some temperature in the engine then drive it gently. Its faster at warming than idling for sure, but not as fast as driving off straight away. I think the problem with driving off straight away is that it will make the engine warm up to quick; the pistons will expand rapidly due to their smaller thermal mass but the cylinder block would take much more time to warm up and expand, therefore you could possibly increase cylinder bore wear due to the tight expanded pistons in a relatively cold cylinder block. However how measurable any of this really is is up for debate.

[@kijekuyo9494]

I've always been a proponent of driving away right after starting. The RPM is high is the car sits at idle cold. Driving at low speed, the RPM is lower. I drive between 5 MPH and 30 MPH until I reach a freeway. The RPM is quite low during that warmup period. My friend believed in long idle warmups. I would hear the cold engine of his Kawasaki motorcycle surge while it sat there getting 0 miles per gallon.

[@gerardlelandais301]

Another thing i take into consideration when i was asking myself that question was that IDLE will bring your engine to temperature, but your gearbox will still be cold, and that also can cause wear to the gearbox. Now i simply start it, let it run for 5/10 secondes and then i start driving, while maintaining a low RPM ( Usually around 2.5k )

[@robertneak8613]

This is true with the gear box since I can't even put in in gear.

[@jameshardly6074]

If idling is bad for your car, what is the point for a remote start?

[@Tom-sg4iv]

Your comfort

[@Slk232]

@@Tom-sg4ivthanks for sharing a bit of brain with him

[@johnsnodgrass6769]

I have been using Amsoil Signature synthetic oil in my 2011 Tacoma for 13 years. Amsoil, in their fact sheets, claim that their oil maintains its viscosity which is satisfactory for an engine regardless of the temperature. Given that, I start the truck, fasten my seat belt, and go. I don’t burn any oil and I change it once a year on the manufacturer’s recommendation.

[@otarsulava]

In cold weather lets say 32F and any below, I idle run engine for about just a minute or less, to let the oil properly circulate and start drive normally, without reving the engine on high rpm. In summer time or warm weather I do still idle run but only for about 10-15 seconds, again for the sake to make sure oil starts circulating in the engine, better lubrication = longer engine life. Drive Safe ✌️

[@user-un3xp5up4w]

If you lease your car then do whatever. If you expect to keep your car for a long time then do your car a favor and warm it up.

[@desireestubel5634]

I appreciate your educational video. However, you do need a good five minute idle to defrost the windows a bit before driving 😊

[@Marktec]

My Titan owner’s manual says it takes about 30 seconds for the oil to get safely distributed throughout a cold engine, but after that, go ahead and drive it and it will heat up much faster than idling. That also saves fuel. I’d say that’s pretty much in line with your comments.

[@saywhat2698]

A few years ago after buying my first diesel car i talked to a guy who used to drive diesel locomotives and he told me that in order to properly warm up a diesel engine in a car you'd need 5 minutes on idle at least and that's on a summer day, if we are talking winter cold and snow that's from about 3°C and below you'd need 30-45 minutes at least, otherwise it's useless. He told me to idle my diesel car for about 30s to 1 minute for oil to distribute nicely through the engine before I drive off and then drive at low rpms for the next 5 minutes, up to 1250 rpm if possible but not over 1500 rpm unless I'm in 6th gear then I can go beyond that. He also said that for the engine it's more important to not turn it off immediately after you stop especially if you're coming off a highway, let it idle for a minute or two before turning it off.

[@Aaronnpool23]

Here in Calgary half the year it’s cold so we usually plug in once it reaches -15 and then let it run for 3-5 minutes

[@mr.kroket]

I drive off immediately after start up. Won't go over 2000rpm and will drive with a bit more load than usual. Will gradually increase the revving according to the temp gauge. Keep in mind that also the oil needs to get to it's ideal temperature, this takes a bit longer. Will be rolling to a red light in neutral, but only do this when the engine is not yet up to temp. (MX-5 nd 2019)

[@krisswolf2011]

Normally I never really warm up the car, moreso I wait for the oil to circulate. I drive a 2019 Sedan. On cold starts, the engine will be idling higher, at 1000rpm for 15-20 seconds, and I hear the valves clacking away. After about 20 seconds, the engine will rev itself and spike to maybe 1200 for a second and then settle to its slower operating idle speed of maybe 800. The valves will also stop clacking at the same moment. I believe that signal means the oil have fully circulated the engine. That’s my signal the car is ready. I don’t even shift out of park until I hear the signal On cold days (below 35F) I will actually wait for the car to warm up because the transmission doesn’t seem to like shifting on cold oil. I get stuck in first gear until the car gets warmed up. I might idle in park or drive around on idle thrust

[@Erowens98]

As a mechanical engineering student, I don't buy the "just drive its designed for it" thing. The fact is, an engines tolerances are set up to run when its warm. The piston rings will wear faster when the engine is cold. Now, I wouldn't recommend you wait until it reaches operating temperature. Since that'll take 10-20m if its really cold out. But at least a few minutes will improve your engines longevity.

[@cheeseburger3072]

I start up and let it idle for 2-3 minutes and the idle slows down a bit and then I drive off keeping the rpms low for the first 5 minutes or so and then I drive as I always do. I live in Kentucky where it's rare for the temps to get below 10 but when it does I use the remote start and let it idle for 5-6 minutes and then drive off keeping the rpms down for the first 5 minutes. Using synthetic oil helps significantly. I have a newer model Camaro and keep it well maintained, oil changes every 5,000 miles.

[@Indigenous-nation]

I worry more about the transmission fluid being warm then the motor oil. sometimes the transmission jerks when I put the car into drive from being in park mode. normally that does not happen when the car is slightly warmed up. Hope this helps everyone!

[@BlueRidgeBlackRedneck]

Same thing happens to me- my transmission will “clunk” if I shift from park within two minutes of ignition. If I give it five minutes it shifts perfectly smooth. ‘99 Toyota Avalon with 270k miles on the original engine and transmission. Still running great!!

[@joeschmo622]

On especially cold days (NYC, so relative), I'll start up the car and just let it fast-idle naturally to get the oil circulating and up to pressure. Might take a minute or two. After that, I'll just drive verrrrrrry easily. If I can get away with just letting it fast-idle in drive with a gentle few taps on the accelerator when needed, I'll do that. I'll even pull over and let go any cars coming up behind me so they don't have to wait. By the time I'm at the on-ramp to the expressway, I can do a sort of reduced-power takeoff up the ramp and on, get up to speed with constant throttle, then just keep it moving. No revving, no flooring it, nothing. Once it's warm, then I can drive normally. Also, when it's especially cold out, I'll also partially/mostly block off my radiator to speed up warmup and to reduce air-cooling at highway speeds.

[@mr.monitor.]

A block heater with a timer is great to have. Just set the heater to come on a few hours before you normally go to work and have a warm engine, heat, and windshield defrost that actually works right away.

[@AlmostLastJedi]

I’ve just noticed with my 430d 3.0 diesel that there’s a significant loss of power if I drive straight away as if the engine is trying to protect itself, which is quite clever. I’m not saying leave your car for 15 mins but maybe up to 5 mins I can’t see what the harm is. It’s impossible to damage your engine this way as they’re meant to run. I have added a remote start feature for the U.K’s cold months, the car stays locked and immobilised while the engine warms up but cuts off after 15 mins if you don’t get there in time.

[@clutch7366]

Fuel is cheaper than a new engine. I don’t care that I “waste” gas by idling for a minute or two. I’d rather play it safe and let the engine come up to temp a little bit than to start driving five seconds after I start the engine. I like to see the temperature gauge start to move before I begin to drive.

[@nexxit.mauritius]

Unfortunately many people do not realise that it's not their money that is paying for the gas, but the entire planet's kids and creatures. So if you are in a warm country, it should not be more than a few seconds, (as you rightly figured out😉)

[@NN-oz6rr]

Stubborn

[@fishjohn014]

​@@nexxit.mauritiuscringe

[@AmitPatel_.]

For my climate extreme cold is around +20F. There's something satisfying to let the car idle for 30 seconds and drive off slowly letting it to come up to temperature while driving slow. Heated seats helping me stay comfortable along the way.

[@Carlparishhonda]

It is common sense to warm up a very cold car , especially in Chicago winter negative temperatures. You can injured your body waking up very cold and running instead of slowly warming up with stretching exercises. It works for me before running long distance marathons. I own a Honda Fit sport i purchased 16 years ago and i always warm up that car for several minutes during Chicago winter zero degrees temperatures without no problems.

[@huntercarl8961]

When it’s warm outside I usually let my ‘22 Tacoma run for however long it takes me to put on my seatbelt and connect my Bluetooth. In the dead of winter in NY where it’s commonly below freezing, I’ll start it and let it sit for no more than like 2 minutes before I take off. Even driving, in the dead of winter my truck takes a while to fully warm up, definitely not 1-2 minutes. If I drive around town and it’s below freezing outside, it usually takes a good 5-7 minutes to fully warm up

[@OzarkMountainKing]

I turn the key, give it a couple seconds for the oil to come up from the pan, and roll. Starting the engine after sitting is the hardest thing on an engine. I may not be helping anything. I just think allowing 5 or so seconds to fully circulate the oil before I roast the tires out of the driveway is probably a good idea. Cold or hot, if you use the right oil and proper weight for the climate, temp doesn't really matter.

[@williamclaflin7863]

If it’s carburetor let sit otherwise ride or die however I usually wait for the defrost to be effective

[@Bonbonbon739]

I’ve always warmed all my cars and I live in Florida. All the fluids are at the bottom of the car when you started it’s better to get all the fluid circulating in the car before you start putting pressure on the engine. Basically, you don’t really need to warm it up but you need the fluids to start circulating.

[@gop4usa12]

I let it idle at least long enough to circulate the oil. Then as I drive off, I drive in such a way that keep the RPMs down for the next few minutes. After that, it's good to go.

[@jivepatrol6833]

Just drive at moderate speeds and normally while the engine warms up. At low temperatures, the oil is more viscous and the oil pump has a relief valve to regulate pressure until the oil warms up and then the relief valve closes. Also, once the thermostat opens up colder coolant from the radiator starts circulating through the engine. These systems work regardless of whether the vehicle is sitting still or moving. Transmission fluid primarily heats up when the vehicle is in motion. There is no reason to idle more than 15-20 seconds other than if windows are frosted up impairing visibility. I'm an Automotive Engineer with 42 years of experience BSME and MSME.

[@tonebonebgky2]

I agree red lining after one minute seems excessive but again your car and your choice, I drive moderately and increase as I go without flooring it or riding the brakes either is not necessarily great for your car and either isn't going to break things right away.

[@Sly_4]

Pretty sound advice for the most part. Only thing I want to add is, that just because the engine temp gauge has reached operating temp, that doesn’t mean all the oil has too. You still need to pay attention to how smooth your transmission feels during shifts as a proper gauge of full lubrication, and a sign the whole system is now ready for more throttle and higher rpm.

[@darkzeronightmare623]

Cold start to red line you can spin a bearing or blow the head gasket. Given alot of cars have some type of protection not to allow you to red line till the engine gets up to temp, ie BMWs

[@jeffgriffith7003]

Like many things in life, there are no absolute answers that apply to every situation. If I plan on doing a short drive and I don’t expect the engine to get fully warmed up, I will pre-warm the engine before I drive just so that it fully reaches operating temperature by the time I shut it back down for several hours or overnight because engines that never reach full operating temperature have a tendency to produce considerable amounts of condensation in the crankcase. Sometimes I even pre-warm my car so that I have a functional defroster, so that I can see out the windshield without fogging it up inside the cabin. For cold starts in the summer, I let the engine idle for about 30 seconds to 1 minute before driving off. All my cars also warm up pretty quickly at idle, I make sure my thermostats are in good shape since a proper coolant temperature is key to longer engine life, fuel efficiency, reduced carbon deposits, improved oil life, improved lubricity and low emissions. Plus you also give your battery a better chance of recharging after the starter motor pulls hundreds of amps out of the battery, also especially critical in cold climates, this is something that nobody seems to address.

[@neoskater420]

I had a 1983 302 Ford Bronco XLT if you even tried to leave right away the truck would stall randomly had to let it warm up at least 10 min or so. Now days with electronic fuel injection no one really experiences this having to warm up an engine/carburetor to get going. There is also frost on windows possibly a fog lucky I use rubbing alcohol in my windshield washer fluid and when I clean my windows makes that less of a problem. You can also push on the gas at a low RPM if you are worried about idling to warm up.

[@jamesmurray8669]

I believe that you should if you want to is simply start up your car and just give it a few minute to get the oil moving around don't rev up your engine let it just Idle calmly 2 or 3 Minutes is really all you need and then drive off but do it smooth and easy until you car come up to temperature Sometimes it's even good if you own a diesel car or petrol car to get it out onto the motorway and give it an Italian tuneup. Yeah, yeah, that means get the car up to at least 60 or 70 miles an hour, which is good for your engine.and Exhaust and your DPF filters to burn off those carbons. And if you're gone short journeys, then take a longer route, get your car up to temperature. This helps to keep your engine fit and healthy. With regular oil changes every six to seven months months don't go a very long period of time without changing the oill and filters it's better to keep the car fit and carbon free I would recommend No, and then JLM into your petrol or diesel tank to help look up on the KZbin channel JLM DIESEL INJECTOR CLEANER AND JLM DPF FILTERS CLEANER very good quality Product

[@darryl7527]

It seems weird that no one in cold weather hasn’t mentioned frost build up on inside of windshield when you don’t let defrost air warm up. That’s the main reason I let it idle. So annoying to have to pull over when the windshield frosts over and you’re scraping the inside of the windshield after already having scraped the outside after starting car…

[@KurtofTrades]

I’ve never had this issue in cold weather before. I’ve had it happen on startup sometimes but after a minute or two it’s been fine

[@timin770]

Absolutely. It's a safety issue. Start the darn car, go back inside a make coffee. Case closed

[@CasamTheAnimator]

Now you know when it's cold the engine burns more liters per 100km of fuel during cold weather, and burns less fuel in warm weather, this is because the air temperature in the cylinder differs depending on the air temperature outside, so if a cold air enters the cylinder and it gets compressed, it won't be very warm, just a bit, but if a normal or warm air enters the cylinder and it gets compressed, it will be very warm.

[@CasamTheAnimator]

So your engine consumes more fuel in cold weather than in normal weather, because the air inside the cylinder is not very hot so the engine needs more fuel so that it gets powered, so the higher the temperature, the powerful the combustion is, and the more power it makes.

[@Daniel-hq5my]

​@@CasamTheAnimatorinteresting. I heard that cold air, being more dense than hot air, will make more pressure in the explosion thus meaning more hp

[@billwylde4846]

I do both. I am idling because I am setting up the climate controls, android auto (wired) then headlights before releasing the parking brake and casually leaving my parking spot. When my car is covered in ice and snow. I turn on the car, climate controls and headlights to help melt the ice and snow. Then proceed to unbury my vehicle and scrape off the ice from my front windshield and side windows, front to back. Once my roof, windows, vents, lights and wheel wells are clear of ice and snow. I drive away as soon as I can. I do my best to do as little idling as possible.

[@betruly7894]

I got the point in the video. Your video will make sense in a bit cold to warm countries. but make absolutely no senso in countries where temperature are below -5c. However I lived in Canada where it is -15c to -25c in the winter , in the morning if I forget to cover the windshield during the night, it was for me impossible to get in the car and drive immediately. How would you do that.? I need to clean the windshield from outside and inside (crazy) from harden think ice. Try cleaning it with your engine OFF. it will take you forever, because when you think you are done the ice turn again like immediately. How would you drive with a frozen cold windshield you can't see anything outside.

[@TheCommanderDash]

I've noticed parking my car inside in the winter makes my idle rpm drop extremely fast. but if i leave it outside my car takes longer to get down to a normal rmp idle so i would argue new cars rev themselves up to heat up the oil enough to make idle as safe as start and go

[@markosedlarik9553]

I always store my Toyota (5W-30) and BMW (20W-50) in garage. With car, I am idling for 30 seconds and that is the time when I am putting my bike out of the way. It is GDI and just cruising through the streets before I step on the gas on open roads. With bike it is more complex because oil is like honey and it has air cooled engine. So I let the motorcycle go for a few minutes to warm up parallel with the heated grips and sits. After that it is riding smoothly. Some additives like valve and injection cleaners can help a little with a ruff star when temperatures hit -15°C. But the biggest help you can have is when the vehicle is stored in a dry and (slightly) warmer place.

[@donnastark3101]

And what about the car owners that live and drive where the temperature gets far below-20°C?

[@jeffgriffith7003]

I assume you’re letting your vehicle warm up and if you are, keep on doing your thing. Lol Warming a vehicle up is critical in cold climates and safer since your windshield wont fog up inside with warm air out of the defroster vents.

[@stanleyleung576]

If you use higher viscosity oil on a cold day it will take a while to circulate, when you do take off just nurse the pedal until it’s warm enough to drive normally . “W stands for winter which is the ambient cold starting temperature it behaves.

[@Daniel-hq5my]

Reading the coments made me think. Caring and having genuine interest in your car is what leads to being able to hear and even feel when your car engine and components are at great operating temp, after having rode long time and being familiar with it. I personally also feel when the car wants or doesn't want to run, given outside temp or other factors. Also there is more behind this, so idling and caring is a way for car enthusiast to show other and themselves that enthusiasm, and car indifferent people don't want to be considered as less knowing their vehicle just for not caring so much.

[@ASEM-1123]

I have a turbo-diesel SUV that takes 15-20 minutes to get up to operating temperature under normal conditions. So what I do is I start it, get ready (put seatbelt on, etc.) usually around 10-15 seconds, then drive off. I make sure to keep the RPMs under 1500 (it usually shifts at 1300rpm) until it reaches operating temp (takes around 10 minutes of driving). Then I make sure to ease in the turbo so I don't hit it with max boost immediately.

[@antoineaaron3754]

Very informative vid and I’m with the “get in and go” side because of the same reason. Modern vehicles are made to do this. If I had an old school car with original parts I’d be letting it warm up 😂

[@kangarojack3814]

Still not good if it’s 30 degrees or colder if u live somewhere hot then ok it’s gonna last longer still not good

[@angloedu5499]

In the winter, Just let the car idle til the rpm gets to about 700rpm. Thereafter drive off slowly and get on the road. You’ll be able to turn the heater on in a few minutes . In spring or summer weather you should be able to go quicker without idling over a minute or two. Engine won’t be too cold.

[@Boris-sm9up]

It is always good to idle at least 5 minutes in really cold weather and couple of minutes during the summer. It takes oil to start flowing around all moving parts good 60-90 seconds.

[@crazygame2724]

I have a 2001 V8 toy tundra. I let the car idle for 1 to 2 minutes on cold mornings. When I take off I drive moderately for at least 5 to 10 minutes to make sure its up to operational temperature.

[@Vo0Do0972]

idle until revs drop (30 sec -1 min) soft driving until light out or coolant at temp moderate driving for the same time again, season dependant thrash thereafter

[@Dee--Jay]

Depending on the temperature. When it's winter, I never just get in the car and drive. I don't feel comfortable until I know the oil has been somewhat warmed up. So it will idle at least probably 2-4 minutes. Now in any other climate where the temperatures are warm at least, I'll get in the car but I'm probably going to let it idle for at least 30 to 60 seconds before taking off. Usually in that time, it will idle down and once it idles down, that's when I go

[@SuperBasslover1]

I like to idle for a couple seconds to a minute or two. So that everything is properly oiled and the oil-temp to start rising. My problem is when i go home from work. Because as soon as i leave the parking lot there is a really steep and long hill. I have a petrol 3.2L Straight 6 engine and i need around 65% throttle and above 2700rpm and barely reaches 20km/h. I really dont like this at cold engine. From work i usually wait 2-5m, But should i wait a little longer at idle or just go as soon as the rpms drop? Its a 2007 Volvo s80II P3 if it matters

[@KurtofTrades]

Doesn’t matter, I have a hill right when I leave my driveway and hit it at 4000 rpm on a just started engine, I wouldn’t worry too much.

[@SuperBasslover1]

@@KurtofTrades Ok, thanks!

[@GypsyGuyy420]

i read somewhere that it depends on the type of engine you have. Especially if its a turbo charged direct fuel injection, that you should let it warm up a bit before driving.

[@AlexRH1991]

You pretty much said it right. Iv been working on cars for a while now and i used to let it warm up but then an older mechanic explained to me why it was not good too do that. On top of that the modern cars are built different to handle these kind of things but I agree with you man 👍👍.

[@rhaedas9085]

I'm in the middle, where I disagree that cars are made to just jump in and go from a cold start, but also waiting until things are at normal temperatures is wasteful. One thing not mentioned is the oil you use - there will be far less damage in any circumstance if you use a higher grade of oil that has a proper viscosity even in colder temperatures. Even if you believe the car will warm up quickly if you just start moving, the first few seconds when there is little to no oil on the cylinder walls are where most wear happens. Do what's best for your car, and that is going to vary depending on the car design and size of engine. Listen to how your car reacts to both instant starts and a few minutes idling. Does it balk at getting up a hill while still cold? Then maybe let it warm a minute or so, let the idle speed tell you if the engine is ready, or choose a less aggressive path to warm up while moving. I do find it odd that it's suggested the car takes 15 minutes to warm up. That sounds like a thermostat issue. Even at 20F my V6 drops its idle down a few hundred within the first few seconds of running, and the heater kicks in with warm air within a minute. In short, don't put a load on the engine until it's mechanically ready. It won't take long, or it shouldn't if the systems are working like they should. Listen to your car's reaction and find that happy medium. And by all means use its idle period to warm the windows and hood to help you remove all snow and ice before you go driving and cause problems for others.

[@robwinemiller9712]

one other thing to consider is that when most cars start, new or old, the rpms are higher then they are when run for a bit or the carb sets and or computer says ok, its good. you should never jump in your car cold or warm out and jamb it in drive, allow the rpms to settle a bit closer to normal range then proceed. this allows the computer if so has one, to check conditions, and such, you will notice on cold days it takes a little longer to come down, then warm days. as ols school cars with a choke you pulled full, then gradually moved it in so that the butterfly was closing to get things right, then it was good to go. computers work the same way. stress is not good on engines hot or cold. just my opinions and thoughts.

[@kornelobajdin5889]

Yes the choke reminded me of my dads old car. Whenever he couldn't start he would pull the choke out and than it could start easier. Its good that most cars past 2000 do this automatically.

[@gregorymalchuk272]

​@kornelobajdin5889 Most cars since the 1950s had automatic chokes. Most cars since the mid 1980s had fuel injection where the computer automatically richens the mixture during cold weather.

[@axelolord]

There's one more thing that probably warrants giving it a minute on idle from own fresh experience - the serpentine belt. That thing will harden, squeak and stress when cold. Giving it just a minute is enough to make it flex enough not to wear it out faster in the cold and not pushing extra force on it right away. Also:WD-40 Professional SILICONE Spray helps with it to keep it flexible (NOT regular WD-40. Same company, completely different spray function.)

[@MrCxiong116]

Piston rings expand and seal at warm temp and oil lubricates best at warm temp. I start to drive once my temp gauge climbs to the first mark which is about 120 degrees with a digital coolant temp gauge. Some modern cars don’t have engine temp gauge but a cold and hot light. Start driving when the blue cold light turns off, it’ll save you from piston ring and cylinder wear over the life of the vehicle. Some peeps don’t keep cars long enough to see the blue smoke at cold start once the car gets to 150k miles anyways so just saying.

[@hypermolegd1707]

I'm pretty late to this video, but I let my car idle for about 5-10 minutes when it's cold outside, and if it's warm, about 2 minutes or so. I mainly do it because my car does not sound nearly as good until it has fully warmed up. If I drive while the oil light is still on, it sounds awful and has a whinny sound, but when it's off, it will have a very deep growl and sound beautiful. I have a 124 spider abarth.

[@nightvidcole5338]

Oftentimes if I scrape frost off the windshield and then attempt to drive, the frost re-forms. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to idle for several minutes to get the blower to the point that this won't happen.

[@jamesbudd9987]

It's best to wait about 1 to 2 minutes. Just to circulate oil. No need to wait longer but immediately driving off will wear as the oil has drained.

[@amiltonfcjunior]

Whether or no my my current car is newer, I still warming up the car before driving it. The oil will slowly warming up and warming up the rest of the engine as well. Quick surges of temperatures don't seem right. With a lot of plastic, you don't want to crack them all with temperature differences so rapidly. At least I don't.

[@luck112a]

We get -40 here. Point well taken though another point, or two. Be gentle with a cold engine/trans... Cars like yours are quite happy to be plugged in overnight. With Subies like yours and mine which have the CVT auto, well, they are susceptible to foreword and reverse clutch wear if you head off when it's very cold. Those trannies are not cheap and that is the major cause of failure. I leave mine plugged in, alternatively you could have it on a timer. I've also heard it recommended that you don't start off until the cold engine light is off. Been thinking of adding an adhesive block heater to the transmission oil pan for those forecasted extreme cold early morning starts. BTW i also shorten the transmission fluid change intervals from 100,000 to 80,000km.