Are Otocinclus catfish hard to keep? Why do Otos die?

Are Otocinclus catfish hard to keep? Why do Otos die? Those algae eaters are not that difficult to keep! Just need to do few extra steps at the beginning.
#Otocinclus #Dwarfsuckers #Otocincluscatfish
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Tank: 256L 108x44x54cm
Light: Chihiros WRGB II SLIM 90
Filter: Oase BioMaster 600 THERMO
Hardscape:
Red moor wood
Fish list:
5x Corydoras Julii
5x Otocinclus
4x German Blue Ram (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi)
4x Discus (Symphysodon)
Plant list:
Microsorium pteropus
Echinodorus bleherae
Microsorum trident
Echinodorus amazonicus
Anubias nana mini
Alternanthera reineckii Mini
Salvinia natans
Ludwigia repens
Hygrophila corymbosa
Cryptocoryne wendtii
Anubias nana
Sagittaria subulata
Bolbitis heteroclita difformis
Bucephalandra "Mini Red"
Vesicularia ferriei (Weeping moss)
Limnophila sesiliflora

[@amberwarman5358]

I have gotten 4 shipped to me. Floated them in their bags for less than 4mins cuz they needed to get into the tank and outta the water they were shipped in. They are doing great a month later. Not a cycled tank, added some stuff to make my water safe and that was it. I am in love with these guys lol so fun to watch

[@jjxtwo1]

I think that slow acclimatization is beneficial for a lot of our fish. We tend to be in a bit of a hurry to get the fish in there quarantine tank or permanent tank. Sure the "plop-and-drop" method has it's place at times. But I have found that what you pointed out to be true. One thing that I like to do is add the appropriate amount of Seachem Prime or Stress Guard (or another brand) immediately to the bag that the fish are in when I open it. Then start the drip acclimation. I enjoyed the video.

[@AquascapingCube]

Thank you! And I totally agree with your statement. It cost us nothing and can be very beneficial to our fish.

[@comment.highlighted]

It seems that there’s two issues in keeping Otos alive. Introducing them to your tank, which this video explained nicely 👍, and what to feed Otos. Unfortunately most people buy Otos because they want to get rid of tank algae, but once the algae is low or gone the Otos don’t have enough food to stay healthy. I’ve tried many Algae wafers, a bunch of blanched vegetables, but Rapashy Super Green has worked the best. I’ve recommended it to several fish keepers and they love it as well. If anyone knows what else Otos love to eat, please let me know 🙂

[@AquascapingCube]

This is very true! And people don't notice because in new tanks there is no problem with algae at the start. But after few months when it becomes stable - it's gone, at least it should be ;). For me feeding worked with Hikari algae wafers and pre-boiled spinach. PS: Haha, cool account name :D You got me thinking for a second :P

[@pcproducer3036]

Oto loves microfauna as well. They love that and algae the most

[@shannarafryer3111]

I’ve bought 9 ottos so far, I currently only have 5 (1 from January and 4 recently, the rest died the two times I purchased them) I haven’t really gotten them to eat vegetables yet but I add in Indian almond leaves to keep the biofilm up and occasionally add in crushed up goldfish flakes since it works with my shrimp tank

[@Bucephalandra]

I have a Parotocinclus similar with Otocinclus. These spices look like Pleco(Suckerfish) but they are tiny so don't eat plant, that means we can have this tiny Pleco-like catfish in our planted aquarium tank. So cool!

[@AquascapingCube]

Those algae eaters are not that difficult to keep! Just need to do few extra steps at the beginning. Let me know if you had any problems with your Otos. Please leave a like - this really helps my channel and consider to subscribe if haven't already :)

[@vmethod]

fingers crossed. I did drip acclimation but not nearly long enough (tbh, I lost track and the container was filling up with water). They're currently chilling, some hiding, hoping all is well in the coming week.

[@ridesnvibes]

This actually helps a lot! I have a 10g tank that’s cycled but have an algae problem (diatom/green algae that occurs between water changes) and have been looking for a clean up crew that fits my tanks parameters! I’ll try 3 of these guys to see how they fare. Parameters are ~7.5ph and 80 degree temps, so as long as I acclimate them in the beginning I hope to have success. Thanks again!

[@AquascapingCube]

Thanks! Acclimate them properly, keep the water clean, and in later stages don't forget to feed them. And they will be fine and happy

[@martykorn1424]

Otos can’t help with diatom or suspended algae. Neither Will traditional filtration. You have to reduce light periods and or reduce nutrients in the water column. Green water is the most hated part of fish keeping. But luckily the easiest to remedy.

[@SMDoktorPepper]

Every time I think my school of ottos have died..they have been in the tank for many years now..they suddenly swarm out of the planta.

[@husky_cw]

Very helpful video, thanks!

[@johncameron4194]

Good video

[@AquascapingCube]

Thank you!

[@emberframe6994]

Never had difficulty with Otos

[@monchug]

I love otos! They like to hang on to my fingers while i do gravel cleaning lol. It tickles! And for some reason i manage to keep one lasted about 3 years..

[@AquascapingCube]

Yes, if you keep them well feed and in clean environment - they can survive for 3 years no problem :) Good job!

[@Ashes_to_Ashes628]

So you kept one by itself? I read they like to be a bigger groups like six. I recently bought 2 but had one die. Not sure if I should risk getting more.

[@marioaqua6441]

I like Otos very much. But it's true what you say, and at the beginning they die sometimes. Good to know that there is a way to avoid/minimize this.

[@AquascapingCube]

Yes, start is very important for them. Just do it slow and you will see the improvement in survival rate.

[@tanyaroberson9629]

What kind of sand do you have in your tank? I love he coarser grain size.

[@AquascapingCube]

This is Kerbl fine gravel (fraction 2-3 mm) from Amazon.

[@tanyaroberson9629]

@@AquascapingCube thanks!

[@susyclau7433]

Hi, you're referring only to the surviving when they first arrive but what if they are already part of your community and whiting weeks or months they die? I got 6 little ones in a 20 gallon tank, with green neons and kulhi loaches and they died one by one trough almost a year since they arrived. I make my water changes weekly but I do have a pH of 8. I didn't really see any signs of illness, just found them already gone, so it would be a great help if you share causes of them dying when they've been already aclimated.

[@AquascapingCube]

Hi. It's very possible that they might starve. Otos do eat algae, but not all kinds and very quickly there might be not enough in your tank to feed them. Their bellies should actually be big and round, so give them algae wafers and boiled cucumber. Second they like to graze on botanicals so I suggest you add them to your tank: oak leaves, alder cones, driftwood - those will also help to lover your pH a bit (not a lot - but it's a start).

[@susyclau7433]

@@AquascapingCube Thank you, I feed the other fish with tropical flakes and I have wafers but they didn't eat them, so I stopped feeding those, I do have a branch of driftwood and there's green algae I can't get ride off on the plants and the glass surface. I use catappa leaves and change them every week, I've never tried vegetables though. I love those cute little fish, I want to get more and I really hope they can have a long healthy life. Thank you for your recommendations.

[@tiagoafonso7793]

Having the same problem :( Introduced the otos with drip acclimatization 6 weeks ago, as I do for my shrimps. They were doing fine. Fat and always active (feed them wafers). Yesterday after a 40% water change they started to die. From 6 down to 3. Water parameters are ok Ph 6.5 no ammonia or nitrates.

[@susyclau7433]

@@tiagoafonso7793 I'm sorry, it's so frustrating to lose them 💔😢

[@tiagoafonso7793]

@@susyclau7433 Yes, especially when you can't understand why.

[@AquaMayne]

do you give them any food suppliments? If so what? Mine wont eat algae wafers or vegetables

[@AquascapingCube]

Yes, I do feed them. My Otos are eating Vitabin (from Tropical) and boiled cucumber. Sometimes I can see them eathing granulate from DiscusFood. But almost all Otos really enjoy biofilm from wood and leaves. You can include oak leaves for example and let them decompose a little bit. This is very healthy for most of the fish.

[@ihatenuggets]

I have a 10 gallon with some red cherry shrimp and 6 cpds. Is it possible to just keep 1 otto?

[@AquascapingCube]

Possible? Yes. But should you do it? I don't think so. Ottos really like each other's company. I would rather go for at least 3 in small tank rather than 1. I think that in your case 3 could work - but you have to keep up with cleaning and water quality. And then observe how they behave.

[@zebedeemadness2672]

What if you have a group, established and doing well, but it's time for a 50% change, is that gonna be to much for them, are they likely to stress and belly up?

[@AquascapingCube]

No, they should be fine. Just do the change slowly and watch out for water parameters - they should match.

[@RemedialRook775]

I've had two in a 10g for like 6 months. been wanting to get more.

[@AquascapingCube]

I think that you can easily get 2 more. Entire group will be happier :)

[@ranjith.v.s]

How can we cure if this fish infected with ich? Thanks for answering!

[@AquascapingCube]

Believe it or not, but I actually made a video about healing Ich in Otos :D And they are still all alive and doing great :D Check this out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5SYiYmhlLxssMU

[@fishkeepingfreak]

I want these but my ph is 8.4. My red eye tetras and panda corys have adapted to my high ph. Will otos adapt as well?

[@AquascapingCube]

Hi. I have to say that 8.4 is quite high. We are on the levels of African lakes here ;) Is this ph of your tap water or in your tank? Because it's possible to bring it down at least a little with few addons to the tank itself (wood, leaves, cones etc.). Remember that the most important is actually stability over actual number. Stable 8.0 is much better then for example frequent jumps from between 6.5 and 7.2 etc. So if they will slowly acclimate to your 8.4 - they MIGHT have a chance. But I would be lying that I'm 100% sure.

[@fishkeepingfreak]

@@AquascapingCube yeah unfortunately thats the ph out of my tap. Actually my test strip only goes to 8.4 so it could be higher than that. I have 2 pieces if driftwood in there. I bought some peat granuales to put in mesh bags but people keep saying dont try to lower or raise the ph as that could do more harm like you were saying. I also have those tetra brand correct ph fizzy tablets but dont use them again because people said not to mess with the ph. I got the red eyes from my pet store and the pandas online. So im sure they come from drastically different ph upbringings. Maybe ill have to break down and buy bottled water jugs or invest in a reverse osmosis filter

[@AquascapingCube]

​@@fishkeepingfreak Yes, those "fizzy tablets" are absolutely terrible - don't use them. Yes, RO filter will help a lot and will pay for itself in the long run. But if you decide to use it, remember to change your water parameters slowly. Small changes in long period of time.

[@vmethod]

@@AquascapingCube I'm learning that wood, leaves, cones, peat moss, all that stuff will not drop ph if it's 8 or higher with high kh.

[@TalesByAJ]

I have three otos. I used drop acclimation for around an hour, and gave them a bath of melafix and meth. blue during the same. They are doing great along with my platys, neons, dwarf gouramis and bronze corys, feeding on algae and wafers and at times veggies like spinach and cucumber. "A fat oto is a healthy oto" has to be the motto in keeping them.

[@AquascapingCube]

Lucky fish! :)

[@my_life_story]

Very nice, сrystal water :)

[@AquascapingCube]

Thank you! :)

[@killerbutts3630]

I have just about perfected breeding them. There is some content on my channel but I don't believe I am done yet. Keep posting thanks.

[@AquascapingCube]

Thanks, will do! I will check your channel to!

[@gonza-fish5280]

Nice video friend, Best Regards

[@wantsome-zs5sq]

Oto's are good at eating algae but their diet needs to be supplemented with meat such as shrimp pellets or other meaty foods.

[@trak957]

I so want some of these for my tank, I am very new to the hobby I only have cloud minnows at the moment I also want a shrimp tank, this hobby is very additive once you start hehe ;)

[@AquascapingCube]

Great, good luck! And yes it's very addictive :) I started with one tank and now have 5 with some new projects already in mind :P

[@trak957]

@@AquascapingCube this is fabulous this means more for us all to look forward to :)

[@guppiesstories5942]

Yes they are easy to keep once they get used to the condition of the new tank

[@AquascapingCube]

Agreed!

[@integrity1969]

I have a total of 4 otos and now i have a few baby otos

[@AquascapingCube]

Wow, that is amazing. They are difficult to breed. Good for you!

[@integrity1969]

That's what I hear that they're difficult to breed I haven't even tried to breed them I guess I'm lucky I haven't even had my tank a year yet

[@AquascapingCube]

You are lucky but also you had to create good conditions for your fish. Luck is not enough, so keep it up!

[@mirsad96]

#1 main reason they die: People think you don't need to feed them.

[@AquascapingCube]

This is unfortunately very true. But they don't understand it at first, because there is no shortage of diatoms or leftovers in the beginning of every tank. But sooner or later diatoms are gone - and so are the Otos (if they survive lack of acclimatization)

[@duypham76]

I had 3 but a month later I see only 2 around

[@AquascapingCube]

No worries, it still might show up :) I sometimes don't see them for days, but later they just swim from the plants and all is good.

[@cogarg80]

Most of the fish in there are simply not compatible with each other or in not high enough numbers. Discus should be kept in a group of 5+ and at 29C, corydoras trilineatus and otocinclus should not be kept at or above their high-end of their temperature range for too long. Also otocinclus being good algae eaters is a misconception - the only algae that they will absolutely destroy is brown algae which is only present in new aquariums and not really an algae. They will never touch green spot algae, that's an algae that can be avoided by having adequate phosphates and kept in check by nerite snails, although their unsightly eggs seem like a bad tradeoff to me.

[@AquascapingCube]

Hi, thanks for your comment. Always appreciated! Right now there are 5 discus there, but if they will be much bigger I will have to find them new tank or new home ;) This one might get to small. Regarding temperature I was was reaching out to my local discus group to and they suggested to keep them in temp 27.5-28.0C, and raise it only during treatment or breeding (and It will not happen). And for algae that is true: Otos destroy diatoms, and this is why we feed them after diatom stage is over. But they might eat other green algae when its still very small and soft, after they get harder nerite snails are you only chance. And I have nitrate eggs in my tanks :P

[@cogarg80]

@@AquascapingCube Otos are biofilm grazers mostly...your best bet is a mature aquarium, biofilm enhancing products, wood, leaves and supplements in form of blanched veggies/greens left in the tank until they start to decompose. They will also eat more meaty foods like bloodworms, krill and most frozen foods but that can only be observed in species tanks where they get no competition.

[@no-knickers-emma1112]

@@AquascapingCube How do you get nitrate eggs in your aquarium? When they hatch what comes out of them? Pure nitrate or some form of animal life? I'm learning new things in the aquarium hobby thanks to KZbin.

[@dax8753]

treat like shrimp really then

[@AquascapingCube]

Yes, more or less :)

[@martykorn1424]

The tank looks way too sterile. It’s either only a week or 2 old, or he’s using algicides or other chemicals.

[@AquascapingCube]

Hi. At the time of filming this tank was something like 4 months old. And I don't believe in chemicals - they do much more harm than good.