Are These Mistakes Stopping You from Climbing Harder? (How to Fix)

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Hooper's Beta

Hooper's Beta

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 101
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Hope y'all don't mind two long videos back to back! Timestamps are in the description as always, but I'll put them here too for easy access: ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Preview and Intro 00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions 01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 1 02:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO 03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 2 04:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO 05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 3 06:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO 06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 4 07:28 Climb 1: Lesson 5 08:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers 08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 1 09:31 Climb 2: Lesson 2 10:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO 11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions 12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 1 13:53 Climb 3: Lesson 2 15:13 Climb 3: Lesson 3 16:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO 17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 4 19:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO 22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting 23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 1 24:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO 25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 2 26:46 Climb 4: Lesson 3 28:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice 29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 1 32:08 Outro
@simonrobbins815
@simonrobbins815 Жыл бұрын
Are you kidding, these are great! Definitely not too long.
@jeremyclimbs
@jeremyclimbs Жыл бұрын
@@simonrobbins815 agreed.
@DerekHardwick
@DerekHardwick Жыл бұрын
I really, really enjoy the practical demonstrations on the wall after the analysis. It's hard to conceptualize three dimensions when drawing on the 2D image, watching Dan do it on the wall is great. The heel hook demonstration gave me an ah-ha moment, I'm clearly doing it wrong :)
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the feedback! Glad to know that the demonstrations are useful!
@runbike28
@runbike28 Жыл бұрын
These are so good! Could you do a practical "how to review your own video footage at the boulder?". Maybe three key principles for watching your own footage. Plus what apps are helpful for a quick review with no service. For example I can do a move in isolation but can't do it from the start. What is a quick way to analyze what is different on my phone? Right now I go home and take screenshots and then flip back and forth to see what is going on and it takes forever.
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
Thanks! And great idea! We’ve been meaning to do one for a while, but it hasn’t made it to the top of the pile yet.
@urabagofcells2228
@urabagofcells2228 Жыл бұрын
Great fucking idea!!! 😮
@VeryShortClimberBeta
@VeryShortClimberBeta Жыл бұрын
I'm so honored to be climber #5 🤩 thanks for the awesome feedback, itching to return to bishop (as soon as the town's recovered from recent rain/snow) to try Dan's tips on the rock!! Great content as always!
@ayuminor
@ayuminor Жыл бұрын
The demonstrations in the gym make this so much easier to learn from! This format keeps getting better!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Nice! Thanks for the feedback and stoked to hear it is helpful!
@niklasstahl98
@niklasstahl98 Жыл бұрын
I gotta say, this is some of the best climbing content I ever watched, huge props for the detailed analysis and to everyone sending in their fails to enable it
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Awesome! Thanks for the comment/glad you're enjoying this.
@howardliu6982
@howardliu6982 Жыл бұрын
Highest quality climbing analysis channel out there 😍
@frederikj.2862
@frederikj.2862 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this amazing content. Makes me always want to go to the gym and Improve my technique.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Great idea! So useful for improving your climbing.
@sommer1982official
@sommer1982official Жыл бұрын
It’s super enjoyable to watch you two. You both talk in the perfect speed, I can follow well, the extra text in the video is also helpful. I’m taking away a lot, feeling truly encouraged and inspired for my next sessions 🙌
@jeremyclimbs
@jeremyclimbs Жыл бұрын
Having Dan demo some of the body postition "in the field" was SUPER HELPFUL!!!! MORE OF THIS PLEASE 🤠
@mickey_rose
@mickey_rose Жыл бұрын
Glad you guys finally mentioned LCL vulnerability in heel hooks!! I blew my LCL in a heel hook when I was tired on a sport route. I’ve seen this happen to Pete Whittaker and Miho Nonaka and I haven’t heard great commentary on the phenomenon. We hear so much about A2 pulleys and DIP joints and not enough about sketchy heel hooks!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Glad we were able to bring some attention to the matter and sorry that you have had this experience! Hope you are climbing well again though!
@makinki
@makinki Жыл бұрын
LOVE the demos. Y'all are too good to us.
@michaelluo8893
@michaelluo8893 Жыл бұрын
This video series is so good. Some of the best, most informative climbing content on YT!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Thank you! Glad you're enjoying them.
@brainyu
@brainyu Жыл бұрын
Always love when you guys have Dan on to analyze some technique. I learn so much every time.
@alexeymalafeev6167
@alexeymalafeev6167 Жыл бұрын
Jason, the Aleena / VPN skit was golden. Great production quality!
@madraven5915
@madraven5915 Жыл бұрын
Improving on perfect! xD I love the practical examples with Dan. And also the red circles directing our attention before actually addressing the issues. Best format on youtube! Hands down!
@SwitchUpYt
@SwitchUpYt Жыл бұрын
Such a useful video nice!
@fabiopalma4429
@fabiopalma4429 Жыл бұрын
You guys are the real stuff! Thank you so much for your serious commitment to this topic, which can be very deep in terms of comprehension and super important to climbers health. Body awareness is everything I strive for in climbing and life
@nilsp9426
@nilsp9426 Жыл бұрын
I really like these explanations. To get even more learning out of this content I have an idea for a variation. A video like this, but with us thinking about the movements first: - short clip with a teachable moment at normal speed - same clip in slow-motion - ask a question - "pause the video" - I, the viewer think about the question and the clip for a minute - quick answer to the question - explanation - next clip - ... I think that could help to learn more deeply and forces us to imagine ourselves in the different body positions even more.
@denlolify
@denlolify Жыл бұрын
i love these videos, especially with the added in-gym explanation
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback! Glad the in-gym explanations were helpful.
@pavelbelik6174
@pavelbelik6174 Жыл бұрын
Raising the bar once again! Great vid
@hectoranadonleon2832
@hectoranadonleon2832 Жыл бұрын
I am a bit confused around 6:52. Is it better for the tendons to have the wrist extended? I thought a neutral wrist was better, but maybe just for the open-hand grip? How much wrist extension should I use when gripping, and for which grip types? Thank you!
@pierredupont6379
@pierredupont6379 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video. I really like this idea of approaching climbing and the use of our bodies in practice in a very objective way. Understanding that there are forces at play, ways to optimize them, while taking into account the bio dynamics of this superb tool that is our body. I hope to be able to keep this in mind and to be both more attentive to my body (if it hurts it's probably because I'm not engaging my body properly for the movement) and to have a more technical reflection on the optimization of my gestures.
@georgealexanderp
@georgealexanderp Жыл бұрын
These are so good. Love these movement reviews. I watch them before climbing. Haven’t heard anyone talk about the “normal” vector since college.
@HiImBQ
@HiImBQ Жыл бұрын
I love the demonstrations very much. It's one thing to see the arrows etc. but quite another when being to show it at a wall! Love it!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Nice! Thank you for the feedback. Glad that it was helpful in clarifying!
@TheBenjaminsky
@TheBenjaminsky Жыл бұрын
I love the demonstrations!
@canyonbryson5267
@canyonbryson5267 Жыл бұрын
I'm climber number 4. Thank you so much for the advice!! Question: you mentioned weak biceps femoris could cause the internal heel hook rotation. Does the conventional deadlift train that or the other hamstring muscles? I have a 405lb conventional DL, but maybe trying sumo, or Nordic curls would help? Also, I have pretty tight hips, so I'll definitely be stretching them out to make external rotation easier. And for the top out, I definitely need to dial it! I did it once and thought I'd be fine, but dialing techniques like dropping the heel I'll definitely remember to do. Thanks so much!!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Hello climber number 4! :) It can be the cause, yes. Those exercises all evenly load the hamstrings and thus don't create the bias to the biceps femoris you might need. But, strength might *not* be the issue. It could be the hip mobility you mentioned, or it could simply be what you are accustomed to doing. You may have started by default in that position and have just done it by default. But regardless, glad that we gave you something to consider / think about for dialing the climb in!
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
Glad it helped, thanks for the submission! If it helps, I really like bent over horse stance as a hip opener. Personally I find it to be a lot more accommodating of hip structure than something like a frogged stretch, but both are good, and comes down to personal preference!
@ivindgitmark9369
@ivindgitmark9369 Жыл бұрын
Do the nordic hamstring curls they showed in the excercise video!
@hasancanyldrm629
@hasancanyldrm629 Жыл бұрын
This is pure gold! I have been climbing a long time, and I value actual scientist’s opinion more than anything else, because your comments actually f*cking make sense. I do not know if it would create a copyright issue, but it would be really great to see you both commenting on some competition climbing videos. Not only to speak about what athletes are doing badly, but also the opposite. Anyway, thank you Hooper’s Beta for all this great content!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
I think that would be a lot of fun!
@alexpdream677
@alexpdream677 Жыл бұрын
Love this series!
@smockytubers1188
@smockytubers1188 Жыл бұрын
These are always my favorite videos from you guys. Could watch hours of these. Love this stuff.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Stoked to hear you're enjoying them! Thanks for the feedback/comment.
@AshleySwensonClimbing
@AshleySwensonClimbing Жыл бұрын
Thank you guys for the analysis on Plumber's Crack Traverse! I appreciate all the tips and demonstrations you provided. 🙏🏼 Also, thanks for mentioning the pad placement and importance of safety. I try to be a "crash pad architect" at every boulder problem. 😂
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Our pleasure, thanks for submitting! And haha thank you for the wonderful safety demonstration. Bouldering needs good pad architects ;)
@meezyobreezy
@meezyobreezy Жыл бұрын
Having seen that gruesome horse flats video of yours i can understand why 😎
@AshleySwensonClimbing
@AshleySwensonClimbing Жыл бұрын
@@meezyobreezy Haha, exactly! IYKYK. 😎
@Sheldon_Steines
@Sheldon_Steines Жыл бұрын
The only reason I have two ankles rn is because of Ashley’s pad tips tbh
@AshleySwensonClimbing
@AshleySwensonClimbing Жыл бұрын
@@Sheldon_Steines LOL. That's a real testimonal!
@muumarlin1731
@muumarlin1731 Жыл бұрын
This is clutch! Stoked about this series:)
@doofkopf2579
@doofkopf2579 Жыл бұрын
Those videos are so good and one can always learn something from every single example. Thank you guys!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Glad you like them!
@samframe3779
@samframe3779 Жыл бұрын
Hello, great content as always. Love the lesson Demo's! They help tremendously.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it! Thank you.
@loganfraney6346
@loganfraney6346 Жыл бұрын
Hey, loved the video and appreciated the extra effort of showing what you are talking about on the wall. There does seem to be some high-pitched feedback when yall are discussing at the tablet.
@loganfraney6346
@loganfraney6346 Жыл бұрын
Tried with other headphones and it seems like it might just be something with my soundbar. Which doesn't make much sense because it didn't have this issue with other videos
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
None of us heard any feedback when watching it, so might just be a hardware issue with your soundbar
@a.malaspina6702
@a.malaspina6702 Жыл бұрын
I think your analysis of the climbs gets better and better. 😀
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
We are always looking to improve :)
@barrabinfc
@barrabinfc Жыл бұрын
loved the video, even the promo was funny :B
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 🙏
@Nzalucky
@Nzalucky Жыл бұрын
First! This is my favorite series love seeing these breakdowns
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Woot! Glad you enjoy it :)
@zachrossi3590
@zachrossi3590 Жыл бұрын
I could spend a week on the 1st 5 min of this video alone! So much good info
@ivanpaskalev9863
@ivanpaskalev9863 Жыл бұрын
Your videos are amazing, man! Thanks a lot 🔥
@DuncanAtkinson
@DuncanAtkinson Жыл бұрын
Really not sure about the suggestion of the matching feet / heel at 10:30, feet underneath you is definitely a good idea. Especially on vertical walls... Maybe it's more overhanging than it looks but even so that looks like a crazy idea to me.
@hejelinnilsson
@hejelinnilsson Жыл бұрын
It's about 15-20° overhanging or so, definitely steeper than it looked in the clip 😅
@DuncanAtkinson
@DuncanAtkinson Жыл бұрын
@@hejelinnilsson ah fair enough!
@badgolim
@badgolim Жыл бұрын
That’s helping me at least a lot better to understand which technic to use and also why! 🇩🇪🇺🇦✌️
@julienlapointe1678
@julienlapointe1678 Жыл бұрын
Really like these anatomy video. Nice format with the climb #. Great demo from Dan. Thanks!
@trentenian
@trentenian Жыл бұрын
Love your videos! I recently learned I have Joint Hypermobility (likely EDS), and many recommendations out there do not necessarily apply to me. It would be great if you could make a video discussing considerations for climbers with this condition.
@BhavishyaPohani
@BhavishyaPohani Жыл бұрын
Amazin vid! I have been struggling with shoulder stability with some time and while the band exercises do keep the issues at bay, it's hard to overload them and become stronger after a while. Can you please put out a video that trains shoulder stability with dumbells or any kind of weight?
@mustardahc
@mustardahc Жыл бұрын
Awesome video. Congrats! What would be the difference between the rings emulating climbing movement excercises showned at 22'22'', and actual climbing on an overhanging wall with good holds? Obviously the second adds the complexity of footwork but for easier boulder problems it's almost like standing on the ground. So in this case, why not try to create consciounsess on the wall, as hole. Thanks a lot for great VIDEO!!!!
@ashwood268
@ashwood268 Жыл бұрын
What climbing shoes should I look at getting for returning from turf toe? Anything I should include into my warmup once fully recovered?
@nathanbourquin6554
@nathanbourquin6554 Жыл бұрын
It does seem to me like the climber on the left doesn’t really have his right foot to press on like the host on the right has. Doesn’t that make a huge difference here? 2:58
@witsiki
@witsiki Жыл бұрын
Hello dr. Hooper, ever since the video you showed face pulls i started adding them to my routine. And since i started doing those my teres minor/marjor started hurting. Any advice on why that would be and what to do to help. Thanks!
@eurekaflows
@eurekaflows Жыл бұрын
Whenever Hooper asks people on IG to send videos in, I always consider it, but ultimately choose not to. Given the people showcased in these videos, I feel like I don't climb hard enough outdoors to even warrant a submission. I do wish more lower end outdoor climbing (V2~5) is shown. While these videos are useful, I feel like a lot of nuance is lost on us mortals. With 80k subscribers, I'm curious how many are actually sending hard stuff (let alone outdoors) where these analyses and finetuning of movements become practical and relevant. To recap, the boulders featured in this video in order: outdoor V8, indoor V5, outdoor V10, outdoor V6, outdoor V7.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
You should send one in! Part of the issue sometimes is we simply don't receive enough quality submissions of outdoor climbs in that grade range but we would be happy to incorporate them :)
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
Also, the techniques discussed in these videos are relevant at all grade ranges, and I think you would be astounded how much of a difference they make at the lower grades. I have a bunch of friends and clients climbing V0-5, and the exact same things carry come up, though typically a bit less subtle. For the most part technique and tactical improvements are far faster, and bring similar or greater results than trying to increase strength. (Not that strength isn’t important, it will definitely be the final limiter at some point)
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
But you’re absolutely right! We should do an episode focusing on those grades in particular.
@pastrop2003
@pastrop2003 Жыл бұрын
Maybe a dumb question but I can't get it out of my mind...Around 7.07min into the video (Climb 1 Lesson 4) you are discussing a wrist position.. Is the same rule applicable to considering wrist position during the bench press? I feel more stable pressing with the wrist positioned as on the right picture yet it seems wrong bcs it puts more pressure on the wrist.
@davidbecker54
@davidbecker54 Жыл бұрын
What app/software are you using to compare videos side-by-side?
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
OnForm
@MyMusicSosa
@MyMusicSosa Жыл бұрын
Guys I absolutely love this series, but for people that think about body positioning so much you need to think about your neck and mic positioning, the swallowing sounds are so strong lol especially at 29:42 Other than that great as always.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
We'll tell Dan to sit up straight next time 😆
@MyMusicSosa
@MyMusicSosa Жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta 😅 no worries the content is so good
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
More coffee next time 😂
@phluxx1991
@phluxx1991 Жыл бұрын
May I ask which software you are using to kind of pain on the screen,
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Paint*? The app is called OnForm, if that's what you're referring to :)
@apapataco
@apapataco Жыл бұрын
Dan Beall looks like Hugh Dancy.
@eSKAone-
@eSKAone- 9 ай бұрын
Excellent 💟🌌☮️
@longb1913
@longb1913 Жыл бұрын
that second clip holy crap haha
@jon-williammurphy9780
@jon-williammurphy9780 Жыл бұрын
This is tight, solid movement analysis. Love the range of stuff and the demos and extras, Dan is the man. But, alas, I've got a gripe. Dan's first comment on Seven Spanish seems incorrect. Left heal is not loading into RH gaston, that would be the case if it was a toe. Oh, he catches it? It's kind of contradictory. I mean, the heal is unchanged and he draws the arrow 90 degrees to how it was first drawn. My solution for her would branch based on how the right hand feels. Does it feel bomb? then turn left foot to a toe and drop that right leg plumb, reel that RH gaston in tight, drive hips over toe, hinging around the RH to stay in the strong position. If the right hand feels bad I would do what he said.
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
I’m not sure where the miscommunication is, but we’re saying almost exactly the same thing here. I suggested that she move the heal so that it functions as both a heal and a toe. There was no catch. It is too far to the left and pulls to the left. This disengages the Gaston. She would likely have fared better with the heel an inch or so to the right. The hold rounds there and is somewhat incut. This allows you to pull with the heel to set up, then to drive with the heel to oppose. It is not the only method for this boulder, but it does work wonderfully. A toe could certainly work. In many similar situations it could even work better. For this particular climb, the heel cams in a way that a toe cannot, and for most people it will be the superior method. It is also far easier to set a heel than a toe in this case. The right hand is a decently sized but flat to slopey Gaston. Opposition is essential. I apologize if the markings weren’t clear to you. It seems to be a reasonably good tool, but the need to use 2 dimensional drawing to depict 3 dimensional holds and movements poses some difficulty.
@jon-williammurphy9780
@jon-williammurphy9780 Жыл бұрын
@@danielbeall7725 ahh, okay. It’s clear. I think it’s the limitations of the visual tool that confused me.
@nbka8rs
@nbka8rs Жыл бұрын
Algogogogo
@DanDrag-un6qy
@DanDrag-un6qy 9 ай бұрын
Don't stack pads unless you have too? Disagree. Have a proper spotter and it is much safer.
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