Are these the best pliers? swapping marvel and channellock handles

[@wither8]

Man, this might be my new favorite channel. I duno if you're a Klein guy but here in the States, it's up there with the elecchickens. The J215-8CR is something you might want to take a look at. The hairspray tip is good, but I think you need something more. Since the metal forged handle design of the Channellocks and the Marvel are nearly the same, you're going to have the same gunk come in over time, especially during the summer as you said, cause it heats up, dirt gets in, etc. I'd warm it up again in hot water then take thin metal shims (.2mm maybe?) and use them to stretch the elastomer handles out away from the metal handles. Go like 1 or 1.5 cm down and while it's loose, to make a nice little pocket. Get some very good 2 part epoxy. Polyethylene and thermoplastic elastomers in general have really low surface energy, so making a good adhesive bond is difficult. You might want to test it first on one of the 3 old Channellocks. The Yellow (not black) Plastic Bonder JB Weld has done me pretty good in the past. Loctite has a plastic bonder. 3M is like, the industrial solution. DP420 will never let go but it's also $40 US for a 1.25oz load, so uhh haha. But it will both bond to metal, basically any plastic, form a weathertight seal (so you won't get that mold shit trapped in your lovely japanese tool), and is insanely strong in shear (so it won't let go from where the epoxy is). So in summer, the blue material might start ballooning out but it will never actually detach from the actual tool. At least 1 for sure of those Channelocks can be saved, it looks like. I'm on a tiny screen now, so I can't see to clearly, but. As long as there's no actual metal pitting on the mechanisms (especially the precision EDM/ground parts, like the wire strippers), you're fine. The reason why those 'locks don't open up all the way is because you got grime all in that baby. The same dirt that fell down into your handles, they are also in the forged pin. It's literally microscopic, but that's what's binding it up. On the tool, where the pivot is, there'll be one side that's completely smooth, and one side with a faint circle on it. That circle is where they used either a torch or a hydraulic press to join the two components together. To take it apart, you do the opposite of what they did. Don't use a torch unless you know what you're doing-otherwise you might mess with the heat-treat and..thats no good. I'd take an arbor/hydraulic press and place the pliers facing so you can see the circle side. Find something with a diameter just underneath the plier-circle's diameter. Steel bar stock cut offs, a bearing from a non-Chinese manufacturer haha. (if you're living dangerously and have shallow sockets that are impact-rated haha). Press down, they'll separate. Give em a good cleaning, press them back together, and boom I was going to say "just take emory cloth, and grind it down until it has a mirror finish" but then I remembered it needs electrical isolation to be code compliant. Otherwise, polymer grips on hand tools are inferior to a *well finished* tool. My dads old vice grips are just as easy to wrench on, and if I get solvents on it I just wash it off. If you have Snap-On in aussieland, find an old timer with a socket set and muck around on different bolts, you'll see what I mean. finally, I'm sure you already know but check out the German electrical tooling. Knipex is probably the most popular internationally but I bet Hazet, Gedore, Stahville and the like have interesting tools to look at. As long as they're "VDE" compliant, they're good for 1000V. And probably more, since the Germans are smart and their standards are good. Their economy is in the dump so you might get good deals too (ohh sorry that was a bad joke I really hope the German economy recovers.) I'd keep away from Wera and Wiha, both of which have somewhat relatively recently huge cult followings, so their prices like doubled over the last ten years. Knipex has a cult (or even mainstream, arguably) following but they still charge basically on par with the "good" US brands (plus some extra $$ for tariffs that Knipex can't really get around)

[@andywarren1327]

If you want to lube up the Handel, use some hairspray... its slippy while wet but then sets like glue... also use it on bike grips !

[@DavidCraig-yg3fx]

Mate, I’ve done this for years now! I just use a little dab of polyurethane adhesive, also helps slipping them on. Pretty much threw the channel locks away. Could definitely be a market for aftermarket grips, designed for this purpose!!!

[@tharpoon]

ive been running marvellocks for years. my favourite

[@phoenixc6432]

Can u please do a video of the difference between the wattmaster yellow insulated cross cuts and the marvels? (cut/strip) overall feel?

[@4west7]

"Franken-pliers" love it 👌👌

[@wingsdesire1]

If you do end up gluing them, can you do us a solid and document the process? Really appreciate this video you LEGEND!

[@tomwhitehead3352]

Second this, keen to do it to my set

[@jakeyh27]

@@tomwhitehead3352 Did this a few weeks ago and didn't use any glue, the grips haven't moved at all!

[@tomwhitehead3352]

@@jakeyh27yeah cool, good to know! Did you have to wreck the marvel grips to get them off too?

[@BradArgent-u9t]

Apparently I’ve heard of different glues deteriorating the insulation. I just wrapped a layer of electrical tape around my handles before smacking the grips back on and I’ve never had mine slip off. Done it with every pair of my channels from new.

[@ActuallyDarcy]

You should make a video of the pulling pal. They're just cable pulleys but no one in Australia sells them. Super underated, I've been using them for a few months and they're elite

[@AddictedtoTools]

Cheers for the idea mate. Where did you get them? Imported?

[@dennisfabian2570]

Get the wiha cross cuts mate.. they got it both

[@isaiahtorrez7611]

Gotta do the diagnal cutters for knipex

[@joshlycett9344]

Marvelocks are the best done it for over a year now

[@bigpuppytools4295]

G'day, Great work, Channel lock are great feel handles 👍👍

[@jpboivin4432]

I’m going to give this a crack, great idea!

[@VoiD1x]

These look mint, will definitely do this Keen to try the wattmaster tho

[@xyiofy]

How to fix crosscuts that are stuck? Possibly copper stuck inside

[@sammili827]

Have you tried the drill out trick for the stuck pliers?

[@anthonynakhoul6522]

Yeah I’m doing this I have a few channel locks lying around

[@AddictedtoTools]

Do you have a few channellocks because they started to lock up also?

[@anthonynakhoul6522]

@@AddictedtoTools yeah my channel lock cutters came locked up brand new in the package and no amount of wd 40, 3 in oil or grease could get them to loosen up much. ps I’m big fan of your page from Sydney

[@AddictedtoTools]

@anthonynakhoul6522 damn! I haven’t had that yet but I had at least 3 pairs all lock up and couldn’t fix them. Multiple people have told me the same thing. It’s a shame, the older versions were awesome. Thanks for following. I hope you have a good weekend

[@anthonynakhoul6522]

@@AddictedtoTools you too buddy take care and look forward to seeing more of your videos in future

[@rustyolfalc]

@@AddictedtoToolsI've a few laying around. But they never locked up like that. Mostly just worn out or blew them up. I work around some rough (highly corrosive) conditions and use my original apprentice set of channellocks (late 00s) as my dailies and they've outlasted everything else that I took there originally. They're pretty dull now days, but I'm kind of scared to replace them they've served me so well. I do give everything a good clean and lube at least monthly though. And installed extra doors on my toolboxes, which has helped considerably with the rest of my gear.

[@andywilson6750]

Have you tried the whia cross cut pliers

[@mutti8979]

Does it matter what size the marvels are when swapping. are they the 200mm or the 215 mm ?

[@markteven4650]

I think these plier companies should release handles as a spare part. For safety reasons. It’s always the good pair we love we blow up. Lol

[@MrJoysiq]

To get the pliers from never coming off wrap a about 5 or 6 layers of eletrical tape on the inside and put back the insulated handles trust me

[@ghostlee4729]

For those that have done this and used glue what glue did you use??? Or what is best to use?

[@jarred3424]

I used blue plumbing glue

[@willlatham2381]

Hairspray is the go

[@robfahey1349]

Alot of people over here like the klein kotes grips you can buy them separate and just heat in hot water and hammer them on

[@lordmoreton1762]

if you used klein handles they would be “freakinklien” pliers 👌🏼🤣

[@christianvanderlinden6109]

Would they actually be officially rated to 1000 volts? I get that they probably do afford the same protection, but would the governing bodies accept these pliers are 1000 volt rated? I'm into them regardless. I'm just curious.

[@AddictedtoTools]

It’s a great point and something I should have said. To have the rating they would need to be tested. So no one would warrant them for 1000v. It would just be an assumption.

[@Jayde.S]

I reckon you should have used the blue Marvel handles, the ones that look identical to Channellocks but feel infinitely better.

[@jeremyshipley5]

where ya get them from? can't seem to find em

[@paulmacri4186]

They don’t sell them anymore, that was for the MA880 series released by Wattmaster

[@Jayde.S]

The package was branded wattmaster but the pliers were definitely Marvel. That's a shame, I kinda liked those.

[@paulmacri4186]

@@Jayde.S Yeah it was made by marvel, commissioned by wattmaster but discontinued back in 2018/19. I think a wholesaler in the northern beaches had some until recently but they are now quite rare. Really nice handle

[@liamwatson588]

Can’t wait

[@TheRealPatrickStarOfficial]

Soooo you just made the Wiha cross cut pliers?

[@AddictedtoTools]

Not a fan of the wihas. The marvels are the og cross cuts👍

[@TheRealPatrickStarOfficial]

Thats fair enough. Any reason? Too tight or different heads or something? I'm no electrician & have only used cheap pliers in the past but I've loved my Wihas.

[@AddictedtoTools]

The wihas are good and I know many that like them. They are just a little larger and also a wider grip. Good for those that like the bigger grips

[@black7rc720]

Orrrr, the Wattmaster cross-cuts. They also have the same handles as channel locks (WATMVA200W).

[@AddictedtoTools]

Yeah that’s discussed in the viden

[@thomasmousley6816]

Good on ya for having some fun, but I think they manufacture both sets of "Frankenstein" pliers

[@filo5240]

What

[@daneramsay3896]

Use Hair Spray for glue bud!

[@VoiD1x]

Awesome work Matty Marvel are the best no doubt, they need to come out with 1000v rated tho 😢

[@R1CK_54NCH3Z]

VDE 1000V rating is a sales gimmick there isn't a situation where you will be accidentally stripping with thes types of pliers, more than a live 3 phase 415v AC cable, which would short across the metal of the pliers and in the unlikely event 1 phase remains live, and you still have functional pliers to continue with, the insulation of the marvel pliers that has been protecting Electrician long before VDE was a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Back in the 80s we only had marvel or crescent, when channel locks came along I bought a pair to try them, but it became apparent that the pointless knobs got in the way as found no situation where I could slide off the insulated handles and onto the metal. The unnecessary extra thickness of insulation to achieve a 1000v rating made them bulky, the rubbery softness and grip pattern would drag and catch in the hand when spinning the pliers to twist cable where the thinner smother marvel grip would spin freely. As you also spin your pliers to twist cables instead of the grip n twist method, I thought you might have noticed the difference or maybe if you have larger hands that the slimmer marvel grip make the pliers to thin. Either way changing grips for 1000v rating is completely unnecessary whereas more for a personal preference of grip and how you use them the thickness, rubbery or smoothness should be the reason for destroying perfectly good grips. Lets hope that the designer of the marvel grips, that hasn't changed in all the following decades didn't live to see this video.

[@matty_isthemotto]

Tldr but I'm sure there was something clever in there.

[@R1CK_54NCH3Z]

@matty_isthemotto8378 There might be a reasoned opinion from decades in the industry that points out a reason for doing this, just not for VDE rating. Replying with your personal account instead of the channel account was an interesting choice, unless it's a coincidence you're both named matt.

[@AddictedtoTools]

Thanks for the input mate. I changed the handles because I like the channellock handles. I’m not sure why the designer would mind. Pliers are a very subjective thing. Everyone has different preferences. When it comes to the 1000v rating. It’s just piece of mind knowing that they are rated. If you’re not used to the handles, it will feel different. For myself there’s other pliers I struggle to use while others can. Cheers

[@AddictedtoTools]

The other commenter isn’t myself.

[@R1CK_54NCH3Z]

​@AddictedtoTools you're welcome. The designer thing was a joke about the designer being upset about hearing you call his handle design not that good then cutting it off. It would be interesting to find out why marvel in decades have from their pinch cuts to there crosscut not changed the grip design.

[@roryd8813]

1000v rated tools are a joke anyway. They dont fit in tool belts and they blow up the same. It would have to be some kind of freak accident for you to get a shock through your pliers handles anyway.

[@zoltrix7779]

Should have been easy to get the Channel Lock handles off, they fall off anyway.

[@YashMeasure]

For Japanese pliers I never understood why the handle was such low quality