Are You Faster With Low FFB - Let's Test This Theory Out.

[@haxorcomputerservices]

FFB is very important to me to "feel" the car. If mine is light im slower. In AMS2 im much faster when its set high as i like the information its giving me and i react quicker to car movement like i do in real life.

[@OnTheGrid]

Haxor Computer Services I’ve been trying it out in different titles and finding that it really depends on the game. Much like you, I find in AMS2 it needs to stay closer to my default settings, which are on the higher side.

[@jchamber73]

Thanks for doing this experiment. There was a convo about this a couple of weeks ago at RaceDepartment and it pretty well echoes the comments here. Yes, it may be faster, but most of us are willing to sacrifice a couple of tenths for greater immersion.

[@OnTheGrid]

You’re welcome and yes I agree on sacrifice vs immersion.

[@kamael1125]

I only got my dd1 fanatec wheel 2 days ago. I was amazed by the strength of the forces it can deliver in comparison to my previous csl elite. I did enjoy a lot driving at higher settings. I noticed that I was getti g slower after a while due to fatigue. I could not turn my wheel quick enough because of that. It still feels amazing. I can see that in competitive racing you would want to lower the ffb to be able to turn the wheel faster if not for any other reason... Unless you are built like The Rock 🤔

[@OnTheGrid]

One thing about the DD is it doesn’t need to be run at higher forces to get the best out of it. That can end up drowning out the finer details. Finding a balance between strength and detail is key to a DD. If you need some setting suggestions check out my other video “ALL SIM SETTINGS” thanks for watching ;)

[@kamael1125]

@@OnTheGrid I'm learning this as I go. I went with someones advice to have wheel base ffb to 100% and dial down ffb in game. That way you are supposed to give game headroom to avoid any potential clipping. It makes sense, although I noticed that having wheel base at 60%and game at 45 also is not causing any clippi g and my wrists are not being mangled in high speed turns haha. I actually tested your settings from that vid you mentioned yesterday. I found ffb too weak. I cranked it up to 60 on the wheel base And it is now closer to what I like although tad too strong. I will play around with dampers as well. I see a lot of opposing theories about them. Some people turn them off you have them at 100.

[@SingleRacerSVR]

Very VERY INTERESTING!!! Video, On The Grid. My interpretation of this - when I explained it in an AC FFB Video I did in the past. Was using the analogy of HIGH FFB being a bit like a corrugated iron roof, the kind that looks like equal waves of the ocean on most metal garage roofs. So what this does is make you feel WEIGHT but can actually "mask" the subtle information you are meant to be feeling. So my analogy with dialing it down (some?) was now it was like running the fingers of one hand, over your knuckles of the other - where you feel much more info of both what the road surface & car is telling you. So to me that 50-70% might be for some........................... a definite keeper?

[@OnTheGrid]

SingleRacer Love the analogy 👍 After experimenting a bit more, I’m finding it really depends on the title as to how low you run. Some titles have very sharp spikes in the ffb, that can benefit from running a lower setting.

[@SingleRacerSVR]

@@OnTheGrid I'm curious if you'll stick with the 50% for now from your own testing - your have you already cranked it back to say 70% or so???

[@steaveg]

This experiment reflects the biological reality of fine-motor vs gross-motor coordination. It would make sense that one would do best at the lowest FFB setting that allows at least some detection of all the forces while holding the wheel at steering-level grip strength. Of course, a real experiment would be a week of using 100% and a week of doing 50% or so. For Science. Also, keep up the good videos.

[@suninmoon4601]

Less FFB is always better than bad FFB. In real life, corrections based solely on sight are too slow. Considering upgrading to a motion rig, because of the distinct impression of being always slightly behind the car.

[@1xRacer]

In one lap I'm faster on a game pad than simcube 2 pro. My body reacts to the ffb with some sense of preservation, without any feel you absolutely send it. Try it over imola or a chicane course you have zero flinch factor. But for consistency, ffb may help more is atleast is my theory. so maybe near zero ffb for quali and ffb for the race. another consideration is you did this over a video so maybe a couple of hours. Pros generally practice over 100hrs for each event.

[@lusid6564]

I’ve heard someone talk about that before. Not sure if it was Brendon Leigh or another guy.

[@youngyingyang]

You must be Canadian... "try it oooouuut" :)

[@OnTheGrid]

You got that right eh 😉

[@dubforster]

what you 2 talking aboot

[@I_Punch_Demons]

So curious why not just use bungie cord wheels then?

[@oktc68]

Doing a lap legal at different settings is meaningless, you need to put it 50 laps or so. It makes sense that these e sports types do this after all their motivation is completely different. I want to feel what my virtual car is doing and have the best possible illusion of reality. The lap times are already faster than reality, why would I want to blame it even more unrealistic? The e sports driver is doing it to get paid or for notoriety. I don't like e sports or what they're doing to gaming as a whole. Since gaming has attracted big money the standard of games (specially on release day) has fallen dramatically. Everyone and their brother is an "expert" and gaming becomes more elitist everyday.

[@burdineestep4224]

Voice mike 2 engine noise ratio is terrible. Hardy can hear your comments.

[@OnTheGrid]

R3E is quite loud in the cockpit and unfortunately I didn’t adjust the game audio in Slobs.

[@aminen5316]

I am way faster at low ffb