WORST MAGNETIZED PIPE I'VE EVER WELDED ON - how to weld it? what causes it? radiation? and ...

How magnetized is too magnetized? We ended up with some super magnetized pipe on a pipe fence project when we used old oilfield pipe as material. So I went out to the jobsite with a Gauss meter (magmeter) to see just how magnetized it was, share tips I’ve learned from our community, and weld on it for myself.
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[@bartbley1269]

When we welded new drop in sections to replace old pipe the old pipe in the ground was a lot of the time magnetized . Sometimes you could hold a hammer on the end . I always carried a Gauss meter . One could weld the pipe usually up to about 7 gauss after that we would de mag . We always had a spare welder on site for broke down welders or for de magging . This welder had a polarity switch for changing the current direction . We would put about 10 wraps of cable on the magged up end close to the end to be tied in . Once that was done we would hook the ground to the stinger (dead short) The welder was turned off and set at the lowest settings then we would turn the welder on and with gauss meter in hand at the end of the pipe we would check the end for gauss , and slowly turned the continuous dial up till the meter showed close to 0 if it got more magnetism we would switch polarity . It worked very well and saved our bacon many a time , because all welds were 100% xrayed . If you can't de mag . change your polarity that helps . This method of de magging is in a 70 page booklet I put together called tie in tricks and stolen Ideas . There is 3 pages in it about de magging . hope this helps

[@crazyoilfieldmechanic3195]

Very good and accurate advice. 👌

[@1978garfield]

How much is that book and where can I get it?

[@tekarose357max]

Using an Alternating Current (AC) welding machine as a degausser/demagnitizer; Connect two work clamps to the two output leads/cable, (work and electrode cables) with power off connect one work clamp & cable to one end of structure and connect the second work clamp & cable to the other end of the structure. Set the Alternating Current welding machine to its rated amperage output ie 200+ amps. then turn power on with the dead short with this connection. There will be about 1 volt and 200 amps therefore 200 watts of output load, this will be 100% duty cycle. This AC machine can be turned off after using to demagnify the structure before welding with Direct Current or it can be used continuous while welding with Direct Current. To increase deposition and productivity, all position welding with the Hobart Self-shielding/Gas Less Flux Cored XLR-8 the AWS E71T-8JD-H8 fyi - Multiple pass, 70ksi tensile strength, 1- all position, T-tubular flux cored, -8 AWS classification, JD 20 foot pounds impact properties at -40 F and D-Seismic and H8 - 8 milliliters of hydrogen per 100 grams (8ml/100g) of weld deposit. Lincoln has similar flux cored wire, Innershield NR-203MP. As close to welding like the E7018 but on a coil. These wires work best with constant voltage weld output and quite weld nicely with voltage sensing wire feeders

[@jamescosta1174]

Good advice!

[@tristonevanko5726]

How do I get the book?

[@kelleypack1000]

I don’t know if you guys know how much you are helping with these videos but I’ll tell you they really help a lot. I’m 66 and weld a little on pipe pens and implements and just for fun. If you would have told me when I was young that I liked welding I would have laughed. I’ll never be a pipeliner but I like to do something to the best of my ability. I’ve been watching several different welders videos for about three months and you can’t believe how much I improved. Also the little tips about working really help. I’m glad you guys are sharing your knowledge.

[@danielarriaga5716]

My grandpa, who is no longer with us who welded for 50+ years, told me to wrap the lead cable around the pipe a few times and then weld. I did it and it welded like normal. I hope others use this method and pass it on to the next generation.

[@terrywaldrop5973]

Do you wrap the stinger lead around the pipe or the ground lead? Just curious as there are post for both on site. I guess it really wouldn't matter, but curious what you did. Thanks. Terry

[@billyjones3430]

@@terrywaldrop5973 My old instructor gave me advice from his 17 years on oil rigs, and basically the ground lead you want to wrap it around the pipe that is magnetized on one side, you don't have use the stinger being it's positive. Ground is for your negative which is AC! Hope this helps

[@terrywaldrop5973]

@@billyjones3430 thank you. so, simple answer, wrap the ground pipe. I have 1500 feet of top rail to do this winter. Using a Lincoln ranger gtx250

[@billyjones3430]

@@terrywaldrop5973 yes wrap the ground lead around the pipe that is magnetized.

[@benhaecker2645]

This is why a Miller Bobcat or Lincoln Ranger is necessary when welding pipe fence. All you have to do is switch to AC current and use an AC rod. Welds as smooth as a MIG.

[@workonitm8]

Great advice. 👍

[@richpitty]

I said the same thing last video about using ac no one said anything which is weird for once

[@heyman5525]

I don't think that's a universal solution. We were running 6011 on magnetized pipe with a bobcat. Pretty sure it was AC. It welded fine and smooth but the welds broke. They were fine on unmagnetized pipe but wouldn't hold under pressure with magnetized pipe.

[@richpitty]

@@heyman5525 I’m not sure either it was just a suggestion do you think it was the 6011 that made it crack rather than 7018 again just a question I’m not gonna say I know all I’m just curious

[@heyman5525]

@@richpitty Well, the weld didn't crack. The base material of the posts just pulled right out. The actual weld bead from the corner post to the horizontal pipe simply pulled the base material right out of the corner post. Also, only the corner posts were magnetized. We did the entire job of uprights and horizontals with 6011 and it turned out great.

[@24jh42]

Wrap the ground cable around the pipe a few times. you can just keep coiling it until the pipe is weldable. If it gets worse, then coil the ground cable the other way around the pipe. Only used it for tig welding where it was not possible to strike a consistent arc, but it should give the same results for stick welding.

[@brianmarshall7723]

This is the method I use for stick welding magnetized pipe and it works pretty darn good.

[@lorencolt]

When we pulled pipe out of holes we would stack the pipe in a east west direction for a couple months to demagnetize it. Plus we would wrap the ground also to weld. In the surplus oil field pipe yards in the Dakotas, Mont. and Wyo. you will see the pipe racks laid out for the East West orientation. We did the same for the sucker rod.

[@bannedfromtheshow8188]

Another good video Austin. I've pipelined for 40 years including maintenance and rehab. I have found swapping the leads can help with the bead. I also have used a strong horse shoe magnet on really bad magnetized pipe. Use the horse shoe to straddle the bevel and weld between the magnet. It has worked really well when I needed it. A plus is to have another welder walk the magnet along as you put in the bead. I'm really impressed with you young man. Keep up the good work.

[@haroldphipps3457]

Thanks for addressing the questions! I also appreciate the comments from the experienced hands here!

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

Austin...just for the heck of it you should try welding some of that magnetized pipe with an AC welder and E6011 rod. No magnetic arc blow with AC welding current. I have done some good structual welding with a Lincoln 225 AC welder with E7018 and E6011. If you are having just magnetic arc blow from DC welding, try moving your ground around and wraping the ground cable several turns around the pipe near your joint.

[@chuckmiller5763]

Yes sir, run AC current and 6011 or 7018 AC rod.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks Austin, lots of good information there for sure, you make it look so easy. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.

[@light-if7lk]

Your awesome bro! Love watching you channel it’s amazing information for younger people like me who don’t have as much experience. Keep it up always love a Friday👍🏻

[@1thaiman]

Hey Austin! Really love your content and keep up the great work! As for the radioactive drill pipe, the way that occurs is when we’re targeting a shale formation (it’s our source parent rock for oil and gas hydrocarbons in unconventional plays). We usually drill it using a horizontally and have about roughly 10k of pipe rotating in that rock. Shale is a radioactive sedimentary rock that collects fine amounts of uranium when deposition occurs. Sorry I nerded out! Again awesome job!

[@tophand1918]

I've always heard wrapping the ground lead around the pipe several times would make it easier to weld, or demaganatize it

[@bannedfromtheshow8188]

To use this method requires a separate welding machine and a Gauss meter to dial it in.

[@douglasmcwhirter9572]

Wrap your ground lead 4 times clockwise, and 4 times counter clockwise around the pipe approximately 2 feet from the joint. The electromagnetism created from the welding process will counteract the magnetism in the pipe.

[@jamescosta1174]

Exactly! You can actually see what it does ( leads) in the winter

[@ronb1071]

I've used my strong earth magnet to control the direction of an erratic magnetized arc, and also used coiling the ground, and ground position to get more control.

[@doucet2443]

Hey Austin weld on magnetized tools that come out the ground down here in Southern Louisiana. Most of the time the inspectors can demag but just like a lot of these guys in the comments said some ol school guys said wrap the ground around your workpiece and it will help tremendously. Love what you do man I like to learn something new everyday

[@JohnBryan-ns5nz]

Thanks for the tip

[@willgallatin2802]

Ran into this on a small project at home. Nutty as it may sound a switched from stick, to FCAW. For whatever reason it worked a treat. The welds were not expected to take much of a load, say under 500 pounds. Ran a bit more crispy than normal, but nice looking welds that I could walk out on the finished parts.

[@peternaffziger3939]

Hi Austin. Really enjoy your channel and am a learning welder. The other pipe issues I understand well. The pipe gets magnetized from the earths field. Although the earths field is not particularly strong, when you insert a long ferrous (iron) object into the ground and spin it, it will get magnetized at a rate dependent on the surrounding ground (how much ferrous material is in the soil as well as the alloy of the metal. The ability of the tube to pick up magnetic field is function of how much iron and other alloys such as nickel and chromium are in the pipe. Stainless for example does not readily magnetize nearly as well as cast iron. These residual magnetic fields in the metal steer the electron flow out of the tip of the electrode causing the havoc. AC makes sense that it would help but not solve the steering. Heat will demagnetize the metal but that would be a lot of preheating for tubes of the size you are dealing with. Degaussing also will lessen but probably not completely solve the gnarly puddle unless you really ge-gauss the crap out of it. Interestingly, submarines get magnetized because they are long enough, like the drill pipe/tube to cross the wide gaps across the earths magnetic field and become magnetized as well. Submarines are regularly degaussed because the enemy will use magnetic fields to try to detect you. The degaussing is done with cable and electric current that reverses the magnetic field of the object to cancel the induced field whether from a welder or big coil wrapped around a ship. When welding, the problem gradually subsides both from current flow from the welder as well as heat reducing the field. This makes me wonder whether gas welding the pipe would solve the issue although I assume very expensive. Radiation in the pipe is a totally separate issue not related to magnetism. The radiation comes from the ground being drilled and does not make the tubing radioactive itself but is *contaminating* the material. If you can clean it sufficiently, there will be no contamination and the radiation will wash out. But drill tubing is frequently full of sludge that will be hard to get out and that holds the contamination in the pipe. When talking about the hazard related to working on it, I am guessing that the radiation levels coming from the pipe itself are pretty low (although detectable) and the real danger is that welding it is releasing it into the air. The (probably) dominant form of radioactive isotope in the contamination is alpha emitters which come from radium like isotopes in the soil and alpha (actually a energetic helium atom ejected from the radioactive isotope in the contamination) is very damaging to soft tissue like in your lungs so breathing that is bad. I am guessing that a yard that won't accept radioactive contaminated scrap has to do with not being able to clean it out without generating rad waste that is super expensive to get rid of so they just avoid it. If I found a load of tubing (2 3/8) that was radioactive that someone wanted to get rid of real cheap, I would buy it and just take good precautions like cleaning out the first 4-6 inches away from where I was going to weld it. If cutting with a carbide wheel, I would also use a good air filter (not dust mask) and clean my clothes out good before washing them in the house. Take care to collect that dust and oil it down to prevent it from going airborne. To find out specific isotopes coming out of a production area, find a good geochemist or petroleum engineer working that field and they can probably give better specifics as to what the pipe is contaminated with. Do you call Drill pipe Tube or Pipe?? All the best.

[@nolanfrank582]

You're learning? I just learned so much from you!

[@maaaanreally]

love your channel man. long time lurker never comment ever. just thought id say keep on keepin on

[@THEREALISTICWELDER]

Man I fill your pain. I have been making some 2in pipe cages out of old well tubing to go around valves and stub ups and the last load I picked up was the worst. I'm just glad they are getting painted. I have also wondered about making x-ray welds on really magnetized pipe. Just to see if any of the old timers tricks actually work.

[@GemBoyfamily]

Very interesting job brother 🔥👍

[@ThumperKJFK]

🙃👍👍👍 Thank you, This made a lot of sense now that you have tried to explain the problems in this type of pipe. From my own experience in electronics. A magnetized object having very strong flux field lines, will cause you to have problems in trying to weld, or solder on the first pass or attempt. Pre heating the object will kill most of the magnetic fields at that joint. Heating a magnet will do the same. But because that pipe was in the ground over a longer time and in close proximate to magnetic material in the ground, the problems are much more pronounced. Only my option from my work not on pipe or anything you do. This was very fascinating to watch.

[@flowtown7480]

Great videos only think I might ask is explaining what Rod and Welder setting your using when you out in the field building fence and fixing stuff thanks

[@jamescosta1174]

Brrn waiting for this one Austin!. Ate up after smart tool was ran, huh?

[@jaredperrigo5206]

on the NDT side we were taught to wrap the leeds around the pipe, also for the gieger counter we use survey meters to detect radiation

[@bradcoffman7684]

Thank you now I know , a big thumbs up.

[@petermccuskey1832]

Thank you. I have run into this and just thought I was having a bad day.

[@gmtn1305]

I had my share of magnetize heavy wall pipe on 80 series chrome. We tried to get the magnetism out with all kinds of tricks from the magic trick bag but it couldn't work. So finally got a demagnetize machine on it and finally we welded it out with no problem.

[@robertsinner37]

I've been using a technique that was passed on to me by an old-timer wrap the ground cable at least three times around the fence pipe and ping it before you start welding.

[@ethancook3315]

Had bad magnetic pipe doing some tig work in a boiler on heavy wall 9 chrome. 100% phaser ray. With tig welding the arc you could see it push back towards the tungsten instead of going away like normal. Things I found that helped is to get your ground lead and wrap it around the pipe you’re welding on several times. Also turn your heat up at least 10-30 more amps than you normally would. After bead pass is in it will start welding closer to normal.

[@blweldingservice5304]

Also wrapping the ground around the pipe about 6 or so times helps a ton!

[@bertjones1315]

Best thing for me welding pipe fencing is to chase which way the weld is being blowing out when magnetized and using the 7018 3/32 rod. Blows left chase the weld left. Blows right Chase the weld right. Just something that works for me.

[@AZ-kr6ff]

Im mainly a structural weldor, but i keep about 3 feet if welding cable with a ground clamp on each end, clamp one on each work piece, opposite sides of the weld zone

[@bblain64]

The stuff is hard to weld. Tig is worse, really messes with the polarity of my torch. Love your videos.

[@coloradodrew]

NORM or naturally occurring radioactive material is found in many oil and gas basins across N. America. Most of the time in my experience it is found in the scale that attached to produciton tubing, casing, or down hole tools over time. Most companies test for it coming out of the hole to ensure the safety of the rig crews and whomever may be handling the pipe or tools. If the levels are too high it is actually illegal to haul away. The pipe or tools can be descaled by specialist and the waste is put in drums and hauled to special landfills. After cleaning the pipe or tools will no longer be radioactive. It’s always good to ask when buying pipe if it’s been tested for NORM.

[@johnjacobs4207]

wow what a problem thanks for the instruction. something I didn't know was out there. Are you going to grind it like you were on the pipeline and run another weld across the whole thing?

[@dylanmartinez6810]

Austin, look into a cheap AC machine for fencing, especially now that in my experience most the pipe right now in Oklahoma is magnetic. I still get a arc blow on mine with 6011 but like you said fill it First, I cap with 1/8” 7018. Run it hotter promise it’ll help. If you’re ever south of okc, let’s go drink some coffee.

[@Hjfvvdst]

I believe there is a formula for how many wraps for best results. QC use this to magnetize for testing for cracks imperfections. Then reverse for demagnetize. Might be an amperage and wrap formula.

[@p.a.f.offroad7551]

Building aircraft carriers and submarines we run into magnetized plate a lot. Typically if it's an x-ray or ut joint we have a degausser, or we can put an MT inspectors yoke on the back side of the joint and it helps out.

[@namarhodge568]

Mr. Austin, as always you have excellent video. I just noticed in the coments this magnetic issue can be solved by welding with AC current. No doubt this will work. I had a need to demagnatiz a shaft once, so I wrapped the shaft with welding leads, and ran a few AC passes on some scrap and this solved the problem. I was going to propose that you would try this while welding the pipe with AC, but as these other people have suggested just using AC to weld with should solve the problem. The theorie is DC current will create a magnet field. Polarity does not matter. AC current is said to isolate back and forth thus councils out magnetism. DC current is used make magnetic fields for solenoids to push or pull, also to make brakes and clutches work. For AC current to become a magnet, example electric motor starter, it has a special coil which has a shading coil made into it. If the shading coil becomes broken the coil will not pull in, it will just viberate. If you experiment with this please make a video of it. Keep up the good work

[@ardennielsen3761]

not to say much but... would it make a difference, to tack weld it then use one genorator/welder to run AC thru the whole pipe section and use another welder for running the weld with the AC flowing thru it from the other welder tho running the welding on DC? or just AC weld it? ... ... ... Barrel plow?

[@dillonstephenson7289]

hows the little bolt deal set up on your sugar scoop?

[@donaldspencer7016]

👀 🇺🇸 . Austin I've been welding on projects in my shop with new material and it becomes magnetized I never new why. We also used to build race chassis and my PA' always had us wrap a chain around the chassis and jig and let it touch the shop floor was supposed to control it idk if it ever helped bc the chains picked up metal flakes. Also do you think the Radioactive ☢️ pipe hurts us when we weld it?? When I by from my local steel yard I don't worry but when I get it from a individual idk if it's been tested.

[@wantutri7225]

does wrapping your ground lead around the pipe couple times help any?

[@viewschris5854]

I’ve heard if you get a brand new car battery and two copper wires and put one on each terminal then touch the pipe it reduces or completely removes the magnetism.

[@kgiweld]

I have had good luck with wrapping the negative around to pipe near the weld and switching the machine to AC... used 6011

[@workonitm8]

I've had metal do that but didn't know why it acted that way. The "mystery" is solved. Thanks

[@dbadley195]

Not sure if this has been covered. When I run into magnetization on pipe I wrap my ground lead 2-3 times around the pipe and that usually helps combat it. Hope it helps.

[@steveadams2063]

Steel pipe or steel plate can become magnetized by rubbing together while shipping or boring into the ground especially around joints and from rubbing against elements and rock in soil, as well as welding. Steel can become radioactive through rubbing against radioactive elements in the earth as well as scale from iron in steel can cause radioactivity. Hope that helps!

[@user-os9lu8bq8c]

Thats alot of residual magnetic field. 10 gauss at 12" is crazy. You can try 1 or 2 things: #1. Create a 5 turn coil with leads around pipe end while welding and have a hand slide it of end. Then check gauss, reverse direction coil if it didnt work. #2. Ground on pipe and crank amps up to weld on another drop piece. This might pull gauss out. Note on radiation in pipe, I have never knew or heard of this. But if so im sure we don't want to even mess around due to the dangerous risk handling radiation. Very limited to detection unlike magnetic fields. I have been in NDT/CWI inspections for over 16yrs. Be safe!

[@chasenk00019]

Radiation from ores/mineral deposits primarily comes from uranium, thorium both of which I think are mined in the west/Midwest US. Potassium I think is also radioactive.

[@kilianculver471]

Switching to AC really helps and on DC I have heard reversed polarity helps with magnetic pipe never tested the theory but wrapping the ground or a cable or even chain helps as well but any time I welded with a partner failed welds were more common on both sides and everyone has some dog legs out there that look terrible but they will hold the world but anyways man appreciate the content and just remember guys we all need to pass our knowledge of the world on to the younger guys thanks Austin I am up in the panhandle of Oklahoma so 👍 keep it brother your helping us all challenge each other and ourselves

[@jimnewell5008]

Did you ever try wrapping the welding lead around the pipe? Never had to do it myself but heard from a old pipeline welder it works. Try wrapping clock wise if that makes it worse. Then wrap the other way. Just can't remember which lead

[@gavindonnelly4767]

When dealing with (Hot Pipe) what you will need is a gamma radiation detector. Berkley Nucleonics makes a nice and compact radiation detector that is very sensitive. The other two forms of radiation, Alpha and Beta are actually particles and harder to pick up as they don't travel well through air. The gamma radiation is a wave form of energy. The Berkley will pick up gamma sources at a considerable distance depending on the strength of the source. I welded on some highly magnetized sucker rod on a fence I was building, I went AC with 6011 it worked well as the arc oscillated between both sides of the weld.

[@christianteddy]

would putting a good hot preheat on it help any? if heat kills magnetism, i reckon that might do that trick

[@jimmystevens3921]

We always used stainless steel 316L rod to weld magnetic pipe. Never had any problems.

[@joshuajackson8112]

Is radiation positive pipes bad to be around health wise once there in the ground as a h brace holding a gate etc or only when working on it

[@geedubb2005]

I inherited an old Geiger counter that’s probably from the 50’s. I’ll have to see if it still works

[@vickiehess155]

I have seen magnetized that had a nice looking weld but if you hit the pipe with a shop hammer the weld would break away from the pipe like it did not have proper penitration. Several friends that were working in a magnizan plant in Texas told me to weld magnetized pipe you had to reverse the polarity on your leads. Try it and see if it works.

[@wbriggs111]

My center punches and drift pins would get magnetized and they would pick up metal flakes till it became bothersome. I would aim the tool towards the south and tap them with a hammer 20xs. That would take most of the annoying magnet force out of them. Aim them north will put it back. When you weld some metals you will find that welding towards a ground will make the weld splatter more especially noticeable with 7018 , change ground or change direction.

[@sheldonhibler4033]

Iv been in pipe line with bad mag on tie ins and sleeve don’t matter with weld partner or not it suck’s either way wrap ur ground couple times it helps lil bit and cp will cause mag as well

[@jacobbuckingham1206]

I was also told to wrap the ground cable around the pipe

[@shaunsafety4175]

The easiest thing to do is move the ground clamp very close to the weld if you don't have an AC welder. I have ran in to this and find clamping the ground via a C-clamp let's me put my ground close to the weld. When there is magnetism I like the ground connection close to the rod (it should be anyway) and to the extreme that the distance from rod to clamp in travel direction is shorter than distance from rod to clamp in opposite direction. Now there's no arc blow. --- edit follows --- Ironically a magnetic ground clamp is something I have been wanting to get and probably would help with this situation. It let's you place the ground anywhere.

[@derrickchisholm8086]

an AC yoke that NDT uses for mag particle testing can also be used on pipe ends to temporarily knock out magnetism as well as heating the pipe

[@derrickchisholm8086]

after 26 years welding ive just started up demag company capable of mainline tie-ins and rotating equipment up to 36” with w.t. 21/2” and to see the frustration wash off a welders face and/or the supervisor and engineer is perfect

[@deanmesenbrink8527]

A metal that has been magnetized can me returned to non magnetic by subjecting it to an AC electric field. I wonder if you could wind a home made lead with the hot wire from your grinder (just the hot wire and not the neutral or ground though you could use the neutral instead) in a spiral fashion around the pipe. Then do a bit of grinding and see if it removes the magnetism. I think that might actually work. Also I wonder if your puddle characteristics will change if you use AC instead of DCEN.

[@Junkawayllc]

Hey Austin, thanks for the video. Can you do one on your torch post cutter?

[@arosswelding]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKmUpWqlp9B9hcU

[@Junkawayllc]

@@arosswelding Thank you, great videos. You do a great job making your videos to the point, while still educating us. I loved the wood fence video. Looking to do one, just have to make that channel to hold the wood.

[@jacerowland5534]

Sometimes dragging it to the job site with a chain helps lol.

[@johnpope4464]

Some times rapping ground lead around the pipe helps

[@eddievalles6019]

I have always wrapped the pipe with my ground and cranked my heat up to push it in.

[@soringabriel4062]

Oooow it looks like someone just said that before me😁

[@mikemoore9757]

I tried to weld a farm gate made from sucker rod and pipe. I didn't know it was magnetised. I learned a bunch of new cuss words. There are a bunch of home remedies for curing this problem that I won't go into, but I have heard that 7018 rod is one of the cures. I have since found out that there is quite a bit on the web about this subject. All I can say for sure is beware of farmers bearing unspecified metals to be welded. LOL

[@tylerswanner44]

I build alot of pipe fence and what I found that works best is to swap your machine to AC.

[@justok9568]

Is there a way to get rid of that? Maybe get a strong magnet and put it on the pipe your welding? No clue thats weird, i have never encountered anything like that yet

[@operationmickeymouseharold6780]

You need an amperage throttle on your stick holder or a foot pedal like Tig welding .

[@marcdouville5317]

I'm curious because I don't know. but why don't you clean the weld area down to shiny metal to remove impurities in the weld? I know it doesn't matter on a fence because it's not really structural, but I would think it would make welding easier.

[@weldshot1700]

Welding brother-in-law sometimes would help and other times you’d know when he struck up a new rod and would change the direction the magnetism would be directed. Usually causing you to snuff out. Getting a bead in a hard tie in, we usually would wrap the pipe with our leads and using a guss meter you can tell it would either increase (almost bring the magnetism towards you) or you you would send it away from you. If you brought the magnetism towards you, you’d now have to wrap it the other way and start from scratch. Lot of times I’ve seen just a tad still stay in the pipe. Once you manage to get the hole bead sealed up, you’ll usually know the softer spots or the spots that react funny. These spots you have to treat with care during hotpass (and are usually 180 deg from one another like a north and south magnet,) they’ll fall in because now that the joint is welded it now tends to want to pull in or suck the pass into the pipe. Be quick and don’t be afraid to turn down and your heat a bit and a little bit of long arc. The arc that is produced causes a showering affect with a big thin puddle usually, I’ve never had a repair yet leaving a bit of tracks in the root pass on magnetic pipe! As you keep welding you’ll find it getting easier to weld. My theory is like any magnet if you get it hot enough it’ll lose magnetism, and with welding your constantly using electric and eventually over power the current messing with its direction current and pushing the magnetism away( down the pipe line. It’s funny stuff. Even welding under heavy power lines you’ll find this true. Also things to consider is if the pipe was smart pigged it’s usually always magnetized, drill pipe and old pipe that has had been in service for years! Old pipe in service for years I was told has small particles coming from deep in the earth that gets blown into the gas and with the turbine in the pipe will effect the pipe greatly until the grass reaches its scrubbers fro cleaning. Also welding to close to anodes will cause magnetism. They use anodes for rust protection and all they are , are a simplified battery with a positive and negative causing a current in pipe for us guys to fight. Hope this helps a little!

[@arosswelding]

It definitely helps! Thanks for sharing!

[@ashmeedmahabir2629]

We wrap the lead a few time around the pipe an that helps

[@jneadventures2726]

So, how does a magnet that is attached to a ground cable affect welds? I’ve not used one myself, but I know others do.

[@SWC44]

Austin Ross, IVE TRIED SS TYPE 309 STICK, AND NOT ALWAYS, IT WELDED 1/2 WAY DECENTl!!!! I PICKED UP 50 POUNDS AT AN AUCTION, PRICE WAS A GIVEAWAY ALMOST, SO IT SAT IN THE SEALED CAN 4 A COUPLE OF YEARS!!!!!! GOT LUCKY! DUMB QUESTION? ANY LUCK WITH THE MIG, BOTH GAS AND FLUX CORE???????

[@davidleblanc9676]

You gotta understand Austin that pipe been spinning in a hole turning to the left for no telling how long

[@SegoMan]

It does not have to spin just being in the well bore will do it, it is caused by the Earth's Magnetosphere.

[@johncoulter1507]

SUPER BASIC INFO FOLLOWS: Magnetism is caused thru the molecular restructuring/alignment of the atoms within the iron alloy. That level of magnetism is generally considered not harmful to you, but just makes mechanical things a bit more difficult. Radioactive contamination is totally different. When an atom is unstable, typically because of an imbalance of subatomic particles because the ratio of protons, neutrons and electrons is off, the atom wants to balance out by shedding the particles that are extra. The particle that comes off and the energy released is called the radiation. There is particulate radiation and energy radiation. A beta emitting radioactive isotope for instance is an atom that is shedding electrons. A gamma emitting isotope is an atom that emits gamma energy. Gamma is in the non visible spectrum of light wavelengths, like microwaves, ultraviolet and xrays. There's plenty to look into as far as radiation is concerned that can fill volumes. Different types of radiation pose different hazards and requires different levels of protection. 3 main components to remember with keeping yourself safe from it are time distance and shielding. Limit the time you are exposed to it. Keep distance between you and it. And if you can put something between you and it that can block it - even better. The strength of radiation is greatly reduced every time you double the distance (inverse square law). Basically the strength measured at one inch away is reduced by four at two inches. The strength at two inches is reduce by four when moving to four inches, etc. So, if your arms are extended, your finger tips are getting burned by the invisible flames while your shoulders might only be getting a tiny bit warm. If you stay there too long eventually your shoulders get burnt too. Unless you stuck your arm thru a hole in a lead wall in which case your shoulders may never feel much of anything even though your fingers turned to ash.

[@arosswelding]

Thank you for sharing this.

[@crazyoilfieldmechanic3195]

No radiation associated with oilfield items will ever be radioactive enough to burn you or make you sick in an hour. That type of radiation level is not naturally occurring unless your in a uranium mine or near the ore and even then you certainly wouldn't be burned but you could get sick under continuous exposure. Radiation poisoning happens to every person on earth exposed to the Sun. How your body reacts to radiation or how sick you get is determined by the strength of the radiation and how long your exposed. Generally from birth to 10 years old a human has experienced about 1% radiation. Every year you live naturally occurring radiation increases your level of exposure and risk for cancer. If your exposed to radiation in your work then your exposure level and cancer risk is always going to be higher than people who aren't. Early signs of radiation poisoning are usually nausea and vomiting if your experiencing that you most likely will have received enough radiation exposure to kill you in a number of weeks. If your burned by radiation exposure not heat your odds of survival are very slim and you most likely have only hours to live.

[@MrKotBonifacy]

_"Basically the strength measured at one inch away is reduced by four at two inches"_ - unless the radiation source is in some enclosure "directing" it (like in this so called "cobalt bomb"), the radiation is emitted as a "sphere", thus it decreases its intensity, or density, by the factor of "inverse cube" - i.e. when you move twice the distance away it decreases by 2^3, ("two cubed, or "to the third power"), that is 8, three times as far it'll be 3^3, or 27 - PER UNIT of area (say, square inch). _"even though your fingers turned to ash"_ - that is, figuratively only, as there won't be any literal ash - quite literally ;-)

[@chuckmiller5763]

Flip to AC current, takes care of magnetic pipe. This happens when pipe is spun in the ground, common with used drill pipe.

[@heyman5525]

I've used magnetized spun pipe but the problem isn't the polarity and weld bead. It's the actual weld strength. The metal would not hold together under pressure. It welded fine and looked fine but it had the strength of solder/lead. The metal just pulled apart.

[@chuckmiller5763]

@@heyman5525 Then something else is wrong. We did a few destructive tests to it once intending to test the AC current, it was just fine.

[@heyman5525]

@@chuckmiller5763 Yeah, once we sent pictures to the distributor, he immediately attributed it to the magnetization. He seemed familiar with that particular problem. I think I've seen every type of weld or material break or crack...but Ive never seen anything like that. The weld never broke. It just pulled the base material right from the pipe.

[@crazyoilfieldmechanic3195]

Another thing to remember about drill stem and production tubing is that it is CHROMEMOLLY STEEL. Extremely ductile,harder than fence post and more brittle, especially after stick welding. Chromemolly race car frames MUST be tig welded to prevent cracks.

[@seancolburn1250]

If you can make steel hot enough that a magnet won't stick to it I wonder if you can heat steel that is magnetized till it's not magnetized anymore which is probably why your second pass ran better in my theory I'd be interested to know if you got a pile of temp sticks what the magic heat number is to make a far less troublesome pass depending on the size of the material is it something you can get away with a weed burner on or is it something people should go straight to a rosebud on anyway I didn't know they had magnetized steel like that due to the conditions it was used for but preheat sounds like a interesting experiment

[@papalilburn]

Sure wish you'd try wrapping your ground around as close to the weld area as possible, what have you got to loose?

[@pocatefo1]

Una vieja soldadora de transformador, que son de AC, ¿podría ayudar a ganarle al magnetismo?

[@DarlingtonFarm]

You can get a cheap Geiger counter off eBay for 100 bucks or so. The radiation comes from radioactive elements present in different formations drill pipes go through. Shale is a big one, you use the game kick to identify it on a bore hole log

[@channelview8854]

I bought a pair of those cheap Geiger counters off eBay. One didn't work at all. The other worked but was very insensitive. I had a piece of pipe that the junkyard rejected because it made their counter scream like a banshee. My Geiger counter barely reacted to that same piece. I wouldn't mess with eBay for that.

[@robertoobregon3750]

Heard a story of a rancher that had pipe corrals to hold his livestock, he got testicular cancer and he thought it was from sitting on top of the pipe corrals. He was thinking the pipe corrals had hot pipe.

[@crazyoilfieldmechanic3195]

Unlikely unless he was genetically susceptible to radiation which can happen and is a proven fact.

[@50rasco]

I heard you can wrap your ground cable around the pipe 3 or 4 times. Idk

[@votemikejones86]

Watched your videos for a while but never heard you’re an okie, or living an okie life. Do you know David Jones, known for his sprint car wings?

[@johnwaby4321]

That looks a bit tricky to weld up 😯

[@colt10mmsecurity68]

Can’t on just weld with AC to help alleviate the control of the puddle?

[@armslength2618]

I'm guessing magnetism really affects the electric arc, not directly how the material behaves. So if you use an alternate kind of welding such as oxy/acetylene or laser you could weld all the magnetized steel you wanted to. And because steel gets magnetized because all the iron atoms swing around to point the same way, anything disrupting that order kills magnetism. Disruption could include kinetic shock like smacking it with a hammer, or running AC through it, or surrounding it with a strong outside magnetic field, or heat. Ionizing radiation (due to isotope breakdown in contaminated metal) is probably just a concern because any finished product can sit there for a long time throwing radiation all over the place. In amounts that won't kill you immediately (intensities like during the Chernobyl accident) it doubt it would affect either arc behaviour or how the material welds.

[@MrKotBonifacy]

Yes, magnetism affects the arc, or electric current, not the material. Iron, or steel, becomes non-magnetic way below its melting point (which is the point of welding, right?) - it's called Curie point [KURE-ee], or Curie temperature (after Pierre Curie, French scientist). For iron it's ca 770°C/ 1418°F, while its melting point is 1538 °C/ ​2800 °F. *Strong* ionising radiation will be helpful at striking the arc, but you wouldn't want this kind of "improvement" anywhere near you ;-)

[@loganrench5680]

Hey Austin contact ludlums or qualtek associates they both specialise in Geiger counters and can inform you of the best Geiger counter specific to scrap metal and used pipe

[@ROBERTHOCKER]

Plasma arc welding would be best for that pipe.

[@bigears4014]

Some tube or rhs is very magnetic and it's brand new

[@daveperala4965]

Aren't welding rods slightly radioactive? I use 6011 and 6013 and those were what I was warned about and to keep them in my shed rather than in my house. I'm self taught in welding so I could very well be wrong on this.

[@Graham_Wideman]

You might be confusing this with the electrodes used for TIG welding. Those tungsten electrodes are made to last as long as possible while maintaining a point, and for that purpose small amounts of another material are mixed in. One example is "2% Thorium" which is slightly radioactive.

[@bucklaquey1157]

Heat kills magnetism, keep welding till it dies. >1500 degrees always helped me go forward, without craziness. As you saw with your magnetic gauge, it was less magnetic towards the sides tacked, more in the middle.

[@harrold901]

Hey Austin, do you ever have to tig weld anything?

[@arosswelding]

Ya from time to time

[@rascalwind]

Magnetism is directly affected by heat. The hotter it gets the less magnetic. We use magnets in blacksmithing when we are forge welding materials to see if they are hot enough. The Crystal structure of the metal will realign at that point and the metal is hot enough to forge weld.

[@InchFab]

It's called the Curie Point.

[@rtz549]

Seems like there should be a way to demag it electronically.