IS THIS THE SMARTEST EV CHARGER? - INDRA SMART PRO - Electrician Life

[@artisanelectrics]

Let us know your thoughts on the Indra Smart Pro Charger. Make sure you’re subscribed to our Channel with Notifications on - bit.ly/3nqFpXp-ArtisanElectrics

[@aaaa-ig6sc]

I've had mine for three months and can't fault it. The app is fairly decent, clear billing section and easy to use. It also supports Octopus Go and Agile to charge when it's the cheapest slots. Rumor has it SoC is coming soon, rather than just idle/boosting etc.

[@aaaa-ig6sc]

Can you do a video based on Indra's V2G/V2H charger, uses Chademo bidirectional to send it back into the house or grid. CCS soon 🤞

[@gap9992]

Can it be set up to vary charging to avoid sending my spare solar back to the grid ?

[@gadgetman36]

I much prefer the look of the Andersen, Indra and Zappi to the Hypervolt, which looks so untidy with its separate holster and extra 4 holes that need to be drilled for it. I can’t believe the awful Rolec Wallpods like Jordan ripped out are still being fitted, but they are on a new build housing estate near me.

[@aaaa-ig6sc]

@@gadgetman36 I think Anderson wins on style, I would take the Hypervolt over Indra Smart Pro even with the separate holster. The Zappi literally looks like a toilet seat but is a decent EVSE (just need to order in black 😜)

[@rogerbean393]

Just keeps on giving ! Your current transformer needs to be before the Henley block to take into account the other household loads.There was another set of tails going to a switched isolator feeding a outbuilding or garage. Good practice to keep meter tails away from Gas pipes. For reference and it’s not an electrical reg. but a gas reg. Meters and associated fittings have to be 150mm from electrical services. Gas pipework has to be 25mm from cabling or be separated by an insulating barrier or the pipework is wrapped in insulating material.

[@GeordieDashCam]

Hmmm, one point. personally if I want something screwed securely into a wall I'd never ever go into the mortar, fixing into the brick invariably gives a 'more' spherical hole which enables the rawl plug to grip correctly. After 50 years of many different fixings I can well remember the blocks of wood hammered in to a gouged out mortar line, as the mortar degrades fixings become loose .... in brick they stay fixed.

[@biaelectric9066]

Still calling them Rawl Plugs, eh? If you were on the Fischer Duos you wouldn’t be so worried where you placed them!

[@heladas90]

I'm all about using the wall dog screws when mounting EV chargerd

[@GeordieDashCam]

@@biaelectric9066 Hi there, yup, still calling them 'rawl' plugs, more as a generic term and it's what Jordan referred to them as. I've never tried 'Fischer Duos' and I'm sure they are admirable but checking their website pictures they don't actually show any of them going in the mortar line. I was merely making the point that in my opinion, any fixing is much more secure in brick than mortar, it's 15 years since I retired but I doubt mortar has improved. Having said all that, an EV charger probably has a limited lifespan and will no doubt be replaced long before the mortar crumbles. (I was never worried where I placed my fixings as they always went into brick) :-)

[@tombarrett1487]

@@GeordieDashCam actually, although I agree with your comment regarding drilling the brick and not the mortar line, the plugs Jordan used are made by Rawlplug, so in this case it was the correct nomenclature.

[@rogerbean393]

It’s the awesome drilling crew again , always in the mortar!!!! He will never learn.

[@Vikingza]

With networking cable, if you use 2 pair, you have a 100mbps link. If you use all 4 pairs you will have a 1gbps link. You cannot have CTs and ethernet in the same cable as the CT will interfere with the Lan connection and cause it to drop all the time.

[@MrOcsicman]

Keep the pair twist intact when terminating the ends...this limits the cross-talk between the data-pairs.

[@StuartPittaway]

Shouldn't the CT clamp be on the incoming meter tails before the Henley block?

[@HousewerkRecords]

Great vid. How do you rate the Indra against the Hypervolt Home 3 Pro and the PodPoint Solo 3? Be interested to know your thoughts. The Hypervolt has Remote locking of the ev point which is good to stop cheeky undesirables trying to charge when your out or away.

[@wobby1516]

Does it work with solar panels in the way that Myenergi’s Zappi can.

[@mattyt6722]

Still nothing new zappi does all of this and more.

[@davegeorge7094]

USA home standard is one 200amp panel w/split phase.

[@marklola12]

Do you need earthing with this? Or does it have a pen thing...I'm a noob but because I can't afford one all out...I may use the company egg and pay monthly

[@alanjrobertson]

Really nice clear explanation at the top re fuse/meter/consumer unit, thanks Jordan 👍 PS when's the behind the scenes video re EV ultra/Doncaster cables due? (don't think I've missed it?!)

[@artisanelectrics]

The factory tour will be coming out soon 👍🏻

[@aido88]

Are you using a torque screwdriver on the DB?

[@naz.4680]

Hi Artisan Electrics, please let me know what’s the name of your work trousers👍🏽 thanks

[@artisanelectrics]

Hi Naz, we wear Bläklader 👍

[@peterseddon8363]

One of you last comments when setting up the charger concerns me, you said it's all under control but who is controlling it, the owner or the company you had to "register" with. I made the mistake of buying a home battery where I initially had no control over when or how to charge or discharge it. Only after repeated calls and emails from me and other users was this function enabled. I just worry that someone can arbitrarily decide that I can't charge the car when I want to. I know you have to register a product for an effective guarantee but it would appear that you enabling the supplier company access to your equipment.

[@paulegan1476]

What?

[@carlosguzman-md2mt]

can it fool the nissan leaf ecu

[@jkgiygigoiuholjojouihgiygf1952]

Get that man a Tesla.

[@handleit]

Why you pealing off the film. Maybe the owner don't want it off. you don't own it.

[@Robert-cu9bm]

Businesses have to remove packaging so they can inspect for damage before handing over to the client. If a client doesn't like that, install it themselves.

[@handleit]

@@Robert-cu9bm what a crap excuse. That's not packaging. Its a see through film. Its like if I got apple or Samsung to setup my new phone and they remove the screen protector. I would be pissed. For their satifaction at my expense. Piss off. That's what this twat did here with the ev charger.

[@essexcountyelectricalltd]

This chargepoint is a hell of alot smarter than mentioned, the PEN fault settings are selectable dependant on the installation and reference earthing especially if you have solar pv to avoid nuisance tripping. This manufacturer is one to watch as they are ticking alot of the boxes for the future installations.

[@justme5384]

13:37 no it's spaced so you can always hit the brick and not the mortar. Never fasten to mortar, it crumbles with time and you'll have a EV charger on the ground

[@blower1]

Agreed - my experience of securing in the mortar, is never do it! - as you say it crumbles, or you end up with a spinning wall plug. On some properties it is tough enough for wall plugs but there is so much variability that its better to stick with going through the brick.

[@geraldelwood9660]

Do you really prefer to drill (for screws) into the mortar course. I have always found there is a significant risk of sandy/flaky mortar, so I will always choose the bricks to drill into.

[@LoudAsFuckk]

Same

[@havoctrousers]

I thought everyone did this, really surprised to see Jordan fixing to the mortar.

[@rogerbean393]

It is considered bad practice ! Only to be entertained If the bricks are crumbling and the mortar is better.

[@michaelsimpson6603]

@@LoudAsFuckk Ditto, dislike fixings in motar.

[@PlanetCypher_]

13:49 or it ensures you always miss the mortar to make sure you get a solid fixing into the brick🤔

[@Sunneful]

A pro never misses

[@awestrope74]

To truly future proof the install i would also install a cat5 for the data connection of the charger itself in addition to one used for the CT. You could use the same cat5 cable given you only need 2 pairs for a 100mb connection which would be more than adequate leaving 2 pairs for CTs

[@nigelhudson1948]

Just after you released this video my Indra Smart Pro stopped charging after about 5 months service. After a month and at the third time of asking the installer, ChargedEV, finally turned up to look at it. Turns out that the lever lock connector on the live wire of the charging lead had popped open and it had gone open circuit. The electrician said that he was not a fan of the lever lock connectors as he had several instances of them coming unlocked due to the thermal cycling of the copper cores. This simple issue has cost me a month of being able to access my EV charging tariff - I'm a very disgruntled customer.

[@adriansmith8213]

Happened with the neutral with me. Now I'm waiting for a solid red light fix

[@twig3288]

Screw terminals provided they’re tightened properly are more reliable IMO

[@melhiore]

0 points for using WPS. It is not secure and should be banned. I am sure there are more secure options to chose from... Apart from that love the charger...

[@aaaa-ig6sc]

I don't understand why he didn't use the 4/3g option unless it's really bad signal area

[@melhiore]

@@aaaa-ig6sc Yup, looks like cellular is included in price with data for life. Much better option than WPA, probably more stable than home grade wifi...

[@mikeschooling8346]

I agree that the old style WPS with PIN code was insecure as it was always exploitable but the new style with physical push button is much more secure. You press the button on the router and it is only insecure for a couple of minutes or until the first device connects. An attacker would need to be in range of your wifi, know you have pressed the button and connect before you did. The Smart PRO only supports the push button method.

[@Chris_In_Texas]

32:47 isn't the CT clamp on backwards? It shows the house is drawing -2725 watts on the screen. So you are generating power and putting it back in the grid? That should be a positive number. I assume there is an arrow on the CT clamp or the wiring was reversed on the unit.

[@makg4655]

Wow if that hole saw had just pushed through while u blinked that neutral was well mangled

[@eddiereed5025]

The first thing i did in this situation requested isolator to be fitted by supplier so that work to upgrade tails could be carried out Octopus carried this out and allowed upgrades to be completed before calling DNO. How did you go about liasing with DNO, Supplier, like you mentioned this would have been a nightmare, Or did you pull the cut out !!!! Even if you did it would have been a 100% better job if you had fitted an isolator although the tails were very short .

[@michaelagnew7825]

you are supposedto drill into the brick, spacing in brackets will also serve to avoid mortar

[@2Balint]

That CT clamp should be before the split!

[@eyresysleftpeg]

Only measuring half of the bloody house!

[@rosshannemann7772]

I never drill into mortar, it can collapse, prefer brick, much sturdier.

[@TWOKDOK1]

I’m sure it won’t be long before security cabinets for charging points will become necessary, to inhibit people nicking your charging point and cable. ‘Security’ screws are a bit of gimmick.

[@PlanetCypher_]

23:32 I was under the impression you should not have cable inside a CU that is not rated for 240v, the cat5 is surely not, should it have been hived off inside a wiska before passing through the conductors?

[@havoctrousers]

None of the inner conductors are exposed in the CU, it's only the cat5e sheath. If the cat5e sheath wasn't rated for 240V then it also wouldn't be rated for being inside that NYY-J cable at all?

[@PlanetCypher_]

@@havoctrousers yes my thoughts exactly, it seems the cable does not conform to a specific BS standard as yet anyway, just that you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions/guidance.

[@roymorton8142]

I don’t think the data cable should be incorporated inside a 240v cable anyway

[@matthewstevens7486]

Surely that bracket is designed to hit the middle of every brick……..I would not use the mortar for fixing

[@MrBobmeadows]

If the CT clamp is attached just under the consumer unit, did it cover all the incoming grid supply? There seemed to be a split (through a Henley block) of the customer tails.

[@2Balint]

Of course, it is in a wrong place!

[@jordonbutler7509]

If you look closely you can see the switch is off, my guess it’s an old economy 7 install

[@haldo691]

The other tails went to that ancient fused isolator with piro coming out of it probably a garage supply

[@sparkstack]

It doesn’t look like it. Curious also why it was reading a negative number. I think it was the wrong way around.

[@davewright22]

Did anyone spot Jordan had fitted the CT clamp the wrong way round? 32:30 shows a negative current draw,. Unless of course there’s solar PV.

[@jacopo.scarpellini]

I was just looking for this comment

[@TwineLightMedia]

One of, if not THE most engaging informative EV install videos I’ve seen. Keep it up Jordan !

[@artisanelectrics]

Thanks very much!

[@IanFarquharson2]

Ct clamp on the right way round? -2700 showing.

[@rodd8170]

This would have been corrected after the calibration of ct.

[@shilks8773]

I believe that the vertical distance for Metric brick ( 215L x 102.5W x 65Hmm) is slightly less the the old Imperial size bricks (Pre 1960's) which were 9" x 4" x 3" (230 x 102.5 x 76) - at least the imperial size is what my bricks are.

[@zoltrix7779]

I love watching all these videos as an Australian electrician. Things done differently in different countries. Something's are better, some things worse. Biggest thing for me is the non mechanically protected mains cables. Differences in terminology. "Main Cut-out Fuse" = "Service Fuse". "Consumer Unit" = Switchboard (Main Switchboard if its the first one after the meter). We would use a 100A service fuse on 16mm2 mains, but the power company would have us use a 63A circuit breaker as the main switch so the service fuse is the last resort. We also always have a earth electrode at each installation. Earth is bonded to neutral inside the main switchboard/consumer unit (We call it the MEN link). This is a suposed safety device to keep voltage down to around 80v or so should an exposed part become live but not enough current flows to operate a CB. Those cables clipped to the outside of the wall wouldn't be acceptable here, you would need some kind of mechanical protection, this would normally mean conduit or ducting. However, we basically never use armoured cable.

[@terencelawrence1050]

Question shouldn’t the consumers tails from fuse box be shielded as they seem to close to gas meter

[@geraldelwood9660]

I agree there is an issue here. I can't quite see the route of the tails, but if less than 50mm from gas pipes they need shielding. But the flexi gas pipe just below the CU definitely needs shielding since it is within 150mm of the switchgear / CU.

[@terrydennis467]

First time I've heard an electrician say that the closeness of a gas line to a consumer unit is "great".

[@jonnysegway7866]

it does seem strange that the CU is right next to the incoming gas, not the best position

[@sparkygazza]

Hi Jordan I was of the understanding that the charger had to be on a Double Pole RCD or RCBO.

[@cj-rb8fz]

Bonding clamp on paper Lead armoured 🙈, 3m of flexi tails and no switch fuse isolator 🙈 and fixing into courses instead of bricks 🙄, and board right near gas meter and pipe work

[@lucidlx]

Shouldn’t the CT be before the Henley block split? Also CT was backwards, since reading negative values in app.

[@Chris_In_Texas]

28:45 Not to be Safety Sally, and call you out, but is that a proper torque screwdriver for those terminal connections? (Just asking for Cory!) 😜😁

[@GlasshouseandGarden]

This was titled "Is this the smartest EV charger" but 90% of the video was about installation (which most of us wouldn't do anyway). More focus on the use of and issues synching with your car and its app would have been helpful.

[@stephenfriel59]

are you allowed to clip the CT to the tails inside the CU?

[@DuncanBarnes]

The most unreliable EV charger I've dealt with so far with the worst support available. Luckily Octopus manage the charging so the smart charger can be left in its "default" state where it crashes, at least in a state where its supplying power so it's been like that for most of its life!

[@royyoung3104]

Anyone else just think that to get Electric cars a viable proposition for EVERYONE is pie in the sky!!! Just had my survey done and the amount of work involved infitting to a ' relatively ' modern terrace house was ridiculous. Goodness knows what woukd have been needed in my old Victorian terrace house... What a load of Green Bollox!!!!

[@aaronworley556]

The main fuse doesn't protect the dno cable, it protects the meter tails.

[@malcdickinson06]

Great video, can you answer a question for me. I have a BP pulse (new WiFi version) that is useless. A friend gave me a Podpoint. He has had his name removed from the charger so he’s no longer associated with the charger. Can I have this installed to replace the BP pulse. Thanks! Malc.

[@alanrose4827]

I tend to fit the lower energy water heaters, they can be run on 1.5mm2 3C+E, lower bills, but must have separate circuit depending on water capacity.

[@haldo691]

Employing more staff so you have more houses to test chargers at I see your game Jordan

[@thomasbroker69]

Why are you videos so long , this could be explained in under 5 mins..I tried to watch but there is so much waffle..an electrician with a social media manager, jeez what’s wrong with this world. Unsubscribed, rather watch a real electrician that does real work for a living .

[@oldwelshgit]

Cautionary advice when drilling near lead gas pipes.. DONT, we hit a hidden lead pipe buried in plaster, called a plumber to repair, was told they are no longer allowed to repair lead ??? a whole new copper supply to the boiler, cooker and gas fire. thirty years of never making a claim on the insurance, ruined by one 5mm hole.. gary

[@JJ-zg1hh]

Great video. Really informative and showed all the steps for the installation. Top work!

[@artisanelectrics]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@allbymyself85]

Wera tools: simply the best. That's probably the deepest explanation I could get. Thanks

[@gregflanagan2972]

Why would you show people how to do your job. Providing basic information is fine, but step by step instructions is a bit silly. Your competitors and handymen must love your videos.

[@aldozilli1293]

Krakenflex and Octopus Energy's app has made half of the point of this charger and Ohme's smart charger redundant. No need to have a charger programmed with night rates now.

[@BrianFournier1]

Nice job Jordan!! I Ike the smart features of the charger, it’s good to see those type of capabilities!

[@BerkeleyTowers]

Ref your comment about the age of the incoming mains....... I had the DNO out recently to replace the meter board and uprate the incoming fuse, and I asked whether the age (64 years) of the incomer was an issue...... he said that (in his opinion) it was better quality than the stuff they put in new installs..... So, who knows? I would echo others with not going into mortar lines with fixings.....And whilst the idea of putting the mounting holes at standard brick/block spacings is great in theory, I don't think they've ever been out on site and measured real life brickwork! Which leads to the worst of both worlds of holes half in/half out on the edge of mortar lines. Middle of the brick every time!

[@makg4655]

Mortar fixings is just for ease and use the mortar line as a guide

[@JC-jv5xw]

I had exactly the same comment recently. DNO fixed a high Ze (1.5ohm) on a TN-S supply, old lead/paper/tar cable from either the 60s or possibly even the 1930s. Asked the guy if the cable was deteriorating and he said it was fine and would last longer than any replacement they could put in. (Fix was shorting N-E in a new junction about half way back to the road, Ze now down to 0.25. I suppose/hope the road supply was already PME?) .

[@haldo691]

The old paper lead cables were much better made than the new plastic cables unless it's a joint or damage the cables very rarely fail

[@ctsungyi1984]

Very surprised the Power supply inside is Open frame style or PCB style. Curious about long term life time with moisture, temp .

[@zu1875lu]

Every electrician has his own way of working out maximum demand?? 😂😂

[@stevenpinkerton1705]

I really wish electricians will stop pulling cut out fuses, ask the DNO for an isolation switch when they do the cut out upgrade.

[@0072sy]

Looking at that EV cable with the cat5 cable inside, I was always told keep your data cables away from electrical cables due to the interference and degraded network signals. Is this not the case these days?

[@MrBobmeadows]

Generally the Cat5e is shielded inside EV Ultra-type cables.

[@duzzah]

@@MrBobmeadows shielding only works if one end is grounded, didn't use a shielded cat 5 plug or ground the other end?

[@timbo19]

Interference just isn't that big of an issue. Remember that the electromagnetic fields around the live and neutral wires are the same but opposite polarity. That along with them being gently twisted along the length of the cable ensures effective cancellation and thus induction into adjacent cables isn't a significant issue. For the same reason, if measuring current with a clamp meter you have to put it around one wire only as if you put it around the whole cable you get a zero reading. In addition, the wires in the CAT cable are arranged as twisted pairs for the purpose of common mode rejection. Shielding isn't relevant to EM fields, it's purpose if present is for rejecting RFI.

[@MrOcsicman]

These are digital, not analogue signals...using twisted pairs and a floating data ground...most modern ethernet devices can withstand and maintain the required data throughput these days

[@oliverhiestand7098]

Are there ev chargers with dynamic load balancing that work with a off grid system that charge more when there is sun and know the status of the battery?

[@okaro6595]

Electricity supplier owns the meter? That means when you change the supplier they need to change the meter? That does not make much sense.

[@latitudeash]

Butter fingers you keep dropping those screws. Hopfully you did not loess any 😂

[@k1lmo]

I have one of these fitted, been very impressed with it.

[@marksmith7147]

Jordan, great explanation regarding ownership of the services i.e. DNO, supplier etc, but could you explain the complications for houses with a looped supply, which affects us in older terraced houses? Thanks in advance.

[@LoudAsFuckk]

Fischer Duopower are king of wall plugs, no comparison

[@jonnysegway7866]

Amen to that

[@Fountainwell49man]

Remind me why the cable ism’t armoured.

[@delspark]

its a smart charger for sure but looks wise I'm not a fan of it. good to see you back on the tools jordan👍🏻

[@carlseddon2392]

I presume you drilled upwards as well to stop water going down the cable. Haven't seen the end yet so I presume again you use sealant

[@markjlewis]

Was the CT giving a negative reading i.e it was installed the wrong way around?

[@hallga2]

why would you not want security screws on the cover??

[@MrBobmeadows]

Nice use of PPE Jordan!

[@silverghini2629]

Is a 32amp mcb enough for a unit that can draw up to 32amps?

[@zombienation68]

I have a bucket full of the 'rubbish' rawplugs 🤣

[@tonymagon8509]

The punchdown tool is known in Australia as a KRONE tool

[@mikeenglish1492]

Good vid, camera work excellent 👌

[@artisanelectrics]

👌🏼

[@makg4655]

That’s what happens when u set up a media company and use camera men/ women instead of raw electricians showing themselves graft

[@prashantoberoi1979]

Does it work with octopus intelligent as well?

[@oootassss]

Hm, I just had to watch adds that you get paid for. Video is advertised by charger company so you got paid for that too. Customer paid for a job too. Basically ultimate money making method.

[@MrOcsicman]

Welcome to Social-Media 🙄

[@greaterheights7042]

Hey Jordan! This is amazing video ever...keep the good work going. I feel like coming over to you for internship on EV installations and other related electrical matter especially smart homes design and installations.

[@davegeorge7094]

Van low profile tires are prone to disaster. Looks flat in rear. haha

[@scott1506]

no point putting 25mm tails in if the cutout tails only 16mm

[@Wintersky136]

32:44 The CT Clamp has a wrong orientation!

[@330d5]

Do you install many Indra charger?

[@jamespegg6418]

Great news for electricians and copper thieves.

[@stephenrussell5751]

Hey Jordan, I have indra smart pro and also the vw t6.1 abt advance model. Got it in May last year and the van only clocked 700 miles and has been with vw tech center broken since July. Apparently broken charge controller and a full battery pack replacement. I do wonder if the indra caused that catastrophic failure.

[@haldo691]

Can't see how the charger could damage the vehicle all it does is tell the car howmuch power is available to charge with

[@NikolaiBeier]

Unlikely. That device from Indra, to hang on the wall, is an 'EVSE' that is there to ensure the electrical connection is switched on after the plug is properly inserted into the car. (among other features). It offers the car the opportunity to pull AC power. it offers permits, but does not decide the details of the charging process. The actual charger that takes mains AC power and converts it to DC current that a battery can be charged with, and regulates the current to levels that are safe for the specific battery in that specific car, is inside the car. Even though Indra call its product a "charger" in its sales brochure, it is not what one would call a 'charge controller'. A good design would have multiple layers of defence, that will stop a fault on the EVSE connection to be passed on to electronics in the car handling the charging protection of the battery. It sounds very extreme that both electronics and battery needs to be replaced, rather than replacing smaller pieces. That might be due to lack of diagnostics. If the actual battery in the battery pack has become damaged, it is very very odd.

[@stephenrussell5751]

@@NikolaiBeier yeah it is strange. They have had the van since July!

[@jonnysegway7866]

@@stephenrussell5751 I think Jordan has been having problems with his VW EV van too, I think VW are late to the EV 'party' and rushed the technology through

[@stephenrussell5751]

@@jonnysegway7866 agreed

[@GARRYEASTON]

I hate seeing people putting the pcb ribbon cable under strain.

[@mattyt6722]

I’m like a broken record, but every charger you review only do some of the features my zappi does.

[@KiltedJock1]

unfortunately that may be the case, but depending on the Energy supplier they only allow certain brand chargers as approved to hook into their back end API OVO as an example only approves Ohme and Indras

[@sinanozcg250]

another comment by the way - its kind a nice to me saw still someone else use drill drıvers (nowadays lots of people using impact driver and i dont know why (i think if you are not a carpender it not neccessary )) for screws .

[@justme5384]

If you screw a lot of screws a day your wrist will be hurt. Mostly of course if you screw larger screws like 6x100mm etc

[@colinwest9211]

Can this charger divert solar? To charge you car

[@mattyt6722]

zappi all the way, had mine for 4 years and these chargers coming onto the market don’t do half.

[@mikeschooling8346]

Yes it can divert solar. Been on the market since 2017.

[@davegeorge7094]

Cable colors in USA are not as pretty.

[@daraoladapo]

Thank you for this video. I'm considering getting a good budget drill just for home DIY things. Do you have recommendations on some that can drill through walls comfortably?

[@7123]

Not going to lie, that charger looks like a cheap soap dispenser. Would be ok inside a garage, but would not want that fitted in a visible location outside my house. I understand your reasons for screwing into mortar, but mortar degrades over time hence why houses need repointing (process of renewing the mortar between the bricks) after so many years. Personally would feel more comfortable seeing it installed to brick work so its more secure, especially on a charger where the cable is going to be pulled about to plug into a car. As always though, nice professional install other than that :)

[@lee.m.bennett2635]

Whilst I agree with the upgraded tails. Back in the day 16mm was always used on 100A supplies. And the incoming PILC cable will be 16mm 😂 Great job though

[@mimikm222]

Sir, no crimps into those terminals? 20:34

[@jesseoconnell4369]

Excellent video Jordan, so clearly explained. Will be using this to help explain electrical installations to new ones!

[@simonjenkins982]

I have had this Indra for 5 weeks before it stopped working and displays a red light indicating a fault. I am awaiting the installer to come and look at this. The house next door has solar on its roof as has another house two semi-detached houses away. The charger was not fitted with a reference earth, and the electrician said the earth into the main 100amp DNO fuse is not large enough. I have contacted my District Network Operator to look at my earth cable. I am on a TN-C-S system. The charger is connected to a Henley block and its own separate isolator. The Doncaster cable with the load curtailment and line, neutral and earth then runs only a couple of feet to the Indra. At 7Kw charging this cable felt warm in one spot near to the curcuit breaker. So I charged at 2Kw before the Indra stopped working. I won't say my EV experience is good as the new car has several intermittent issues with its cruise control and front sensor system. On a motorway at 70mph the car said there was a bend ahead and started to automatically reduce the speed to 40mph. This was not good with a lorry being up my rear-end. Great videos. I am not an electrician and I have learnt alot. In my opinion the technology is not there yet and the Government need to invest more and EV cars are too expensive and unreliable. Thank you.

[@josh3862]

Show us how to start the charge