Climbing Styles: The Individualist

[@phsopher]

Props for not counting speed as a discipline. Savage.

[@filippecha7909]

😂😂😂

[@camiloramirez8950]

As it should be

[@allanhee]

A Janja move that doesn't get shown enough is her finish of Boulder 2 in Munich 2017. Still the most OMG moment I've seen from her. Never gets old. "How the hell stuck onto that, nobody will ever know."

[@chrisz4416]

Good Video! I would like to add one more point to this topic. I think one of the most underrated physical attributes of Janja is her insane shoulder mobility and strength in weird shoulder positions. A lot of climbers have bad shoulder mobility due to the nature of the lattisimus muscle which gets trained a lot during climbing. The lattisimus has its insertion point in the upper arm. Because of that, a highly trained lattismus can cause problems for posture and shoulder mobility if the antagonistic muscles are not trained properly. I definitely think that pro climbers focus on the antagonistic parts aswell and work on their shoulder mobility. However, I think that Janja buts an exceptionally high amount of effort and time in this aspect. Because of that, she is able to push her body closer to the wall even in a position where she cuts loose with both feeds. Just look at her shoulder position at 3:42 and 5:27 and how she is able to push her chest forwards and manages to negate some momentum because of that. I have never seen another competitor executing moves with similar shoulder positioning. Just a thaught of mine, would be interesting to see what other people think about this topic

[@isaachoffmeister4188]

that's something I've always noticed and admired about her as well!

[@ItsBritneyBitch1]

Yes I didn't think about it myself until my friend mentioned that about Janja! it's clearly genetics, some people are naturally very (over/)flexible and she has this crazy shoulder flexibily that allows her to take these crazy swings and pull herself closer to the wall with the shoulder mobility! Really cool!

[@chocolatetobi]

I was noticing that too.

[@vincentskater]

I think what also makes her so good is that she just looks like she is having fun! She doesn't seem stressed or tense, she just loves what she does and loves the challenge and thrill of climbing. That what I think makes her the best!

[@io5329]

Yes, this is a huge + in her genetically defined mental map, just like Janica Kostelić.

[@doxanthropos]

Yes, came here to comment that, if no one else had mentioned it before. Regardless of how hard and frustrating the route, she always seems to have lots of fun.

[@amandajchan]

Agreed! Janja is SO good at committing in her attempts. Watching her climb is always mind-blowing and inspiring. Great video!

[@milikoshki]

I'm excited to see more Janja vs. Natalia, I think we might finally see some competition for first place in the comps :)

[@ascentionism]

Janja vs Natalia bouldering and Janja vs Chaehgyun on the lead wall are the matchups I'm most excited for in 2022

[@luape6593]

kind of but no

[@brianong4678]

@@ascentionism don't forget Laura rogro

[@tvdw4055]

I doubt it tbh. Would be fun to watch her have some more competition but as long as she can keep her desire up for winning I think we will continue to see her reign over the other climbers.

[@immahotpepper]

@@ascentionism I second this!

[@RipperJack77]

Janja has perfected the technique I would call: Just hold on She throws all these crazy and wild jumps and coordination moves and on the last hold she swings around and should fall off but it is like she just refuses to let her hands slip.

[@stoutlager6325]

That specific quality seems to be consistent among the best comp climbers, even specialists for boulder or lead. The Japanese boy, Anraku, is showing signs of this already and it's a big reason why he's already made podium this year at 16. Ai Mori, too. When you think of those climbers you expect if they can get their hands on a hold it's high probability they will hold on even if the approach wasn't optimal.

[@matscarensio1940]

One aspect you did not cover that I believe is so key to her climbing style is her ability to initiate momentum from her hips and knees. Most climbers most 'press with their feet' and then throw their hands. If you look at her initiating a big move, you can see her center of gravity shifting before her extremities. This gives her a very dynamic style with ther CoG shifting wildly. This is a type of dynamic climbing that's unlike 'jumpy' dynamic climbing. When most climbers have learnt to always maintain their balance she knows when that's not needed.

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

In sport psychology what you call "commitment" is refered as "self-efficacy" :)

[@billywoods3337]

You left out her joy. She radiates happiness on the wall. Nobody else has that. Well, maybe Oriane and Brooke but not as clearly. She's fun to watch.

[@elfriederich]

Your analyses are just insanely good! Keep up the awesome work

[@aliyaclare]

Love this vid about Janja who is an astonishing climber. I did take issue with your illustration of climbers who are good at bouldering but not necessarily good at lead. You showed Tomoa Narasaki falling off a lead climb. He's an incredibly powerful lead climber and took the combined IFSC world championship title in 2019 in Hachioji. Aside from that, though, I really enjoyed how you analyzed how Janja uses her body intelligently.

[@rachunkimj2166]

Janja is also humble, which is also a big plus, as hubris is an enemy of greatness

[@franzva8636]

Brilliant content mate! A video on Dave "the wizard" Graham would be sick Cheers

[@ascentionism]

He's next!!

[@zegatito]

Janja needs to go outdoor and compete/commit to the rock. I would love to see those epic battles

[@MrEscuchimi]

She just onsighted two 8c's in Oliana, and this is just during her break of training so... as soon as she gets serious with rock, she will be a beast

[@jhead6833]

Daniel Woods, Seb Bouin , Margo Hayes, Ashima...those might be interesting to hear about.

[@johnmorsley]

She's a frikin machine!

[@kevin11739]

Dude keep up the hard work and the insane quality! Only a matter of time before you explode :))

[@914Rocky]

For me it’s her practice that makes her the best. Her practice boulders are harder than the World Cup boulders. That and her mental toughness.

[@karinfung7075]

Your script was beautifully written thank you for the video it made me cry a bit :')

[@trickeyt.v96]

Great analysis of a great climber. Thanks for the upload.

[@matteobecchi1210]

The idea that the confidence stems from the combination of incredible strength and incredible coordination is very interesting, never thought of it that way. But it make sense... "Janja always expect to stick the move" is very true.

[@pauljung3534]

"A phenomenal phenom, gifted from, phenomenal phenomena." ~ Gaia & Galaxy "Janja is a gift, of something within, and of something beyond." "Beauty is the summit.. of all things mighty, mysterious, and magnificent." ~ Paul Jung

[@savvagrinevich7460]

thanks so much for this. a video on miho, and also the barefoot french climber would be amazing

[@NippyKindLangur234]

G.O.A.T.

[@cheetahslims7849]

I really enjoy your commentary and analysis. Keep up the great work!

[@MinecrafterPiano]

A small slip up, but at 1:53 you mention "31 gold medals" instead of the 18 mentioned on the table unless I'm misinterpreting it. Aside from that, really enjoyable video!

[@grafzhl]

She has 31 combined gold medals in Boulder (13) and Lead (18) World Cups. The table is only showing lead results. It's confusing because the lead table also sums to 31 in terms of total podium placements. Check her wikipedia for the complete picture: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janja_Garnbret

[@timsimpson3820]

Man, I've just discovered a gem of a channel! Subscribed!

[@PeterLE2]

Good analysis

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

For next time Miho Nonaka!

[@speedoguns247]

I was looking forward to this one

[@JohnGM96]

Next up should be a video on David Lama, in my eyes the best climber of all time. What he did in the big mountains is just remarkable, winning a piolet d'or. And he beat a young Adam Ondra on the comp scene as well.

[@rachunkimj2166]

David was very good, but took risks that should not have been taken, same applies to Ueli Steck

[@ascentionism]

I didn't know that about Ondra on the comp scene! He was definitely some new force in the alpine world and it's sad we never got to see his full potential. The question of his risk tolerance is actually super interesting to me as a Bow Valley local in terms of the avi conditions when he went for Howse

[@JohnGM96]

@@ascentionism Sorry, i was misinformed on that one! My bad. Lama won the overall world cup in 2008, the European lead championship in 2006 and the boulering championship in 2007, and i cant find that Ondra participated in any of these comps, i think he was too young.

[@twinmike1]

I would add that without high risk tolerance and some luck there is no progression in alpine climbing. There are so many hazards to continuously evaluate. Its definitely not an activity that most people should push their limits. But for some its their passion and makes life worth living.

[@Duru-e8o]

here after paris 2024, she's a beast and such an idol

[@SightVLT]

Great video as always!

[@gustau4764]

For me, Janja was the highlight of the olympics accross all sports. She's a beast, and exudes raw power in every climb. What a competitor!

[@pauljung3534]

"I think Janja's talent is an exuberant joy and an adventurous spirit. And it comes from the tenets of family, community and country -- graced by God's gifts."

[@alvaroc6326]

The apex player of the competition game. One in 8 billion.

[@janbahlinger7555]

I love Ganja! Oh

[@nawwk79]

Janja is the Messi of climbing, she is the Michael Jordan of climbing, she is the Bruce Lee of climbing. You get my point...

[@曾紀多]

Can you do jimmy webb??

[@wdwdHenry9022]

she is one

[@DIYToPen]

How many times can you repeat "janja is so much stronger than everyone else"

[@STUANX]

de loin la meilleure tout sexes confondus ; she is the goat !!!

[@kylerey09]

I'm curious for how long she'll be able to maintain this level of dominance. Could she win another olympic gold? Or 2? 3?

[@ascentionism]

I mean, she's only 22, which is absolutely bonkers. If I had to pick a favourite for 2024, even though I know it's way too early, it would still be her - she's so far above the field that it's insane

[@kylerey09]

@@ascentionism Noguchi was able to compete at a high level until 32. It's totally conceivable Janja could do it for another decade.

[@magussma]

Great video. Should have learned to say her name right tho...

[@capturehishonor9292]

Will trans climbers eclipse bio women like they have in swimming, track, wrestling and weightlifting? Will revisionists wipe clean Janja's legacy from the history books?