Asphalt, Blacktop melt-drip method crack sealing DIY

[@ginounit]

I just sealed my cracks using your method ! It was perfect! Thank you!

[@pmtips4482]

Glad it helped!

[@rosewoodsteel6656]

I wish I had seen your video first. I tried stretching the "cord" and placing in the crack and it came out terrible. I'd jamb the sealer in and it would "snake" out as I put the torch to it. The end result of my test crack looked like crap. Afterwards, I just started feeding it in with the torch trailing, similar to soldering. I used this method as well as your drip method and it was quicker, looked better and gave a better seal. As you said, you develop a rhythm as you go along. Thanks for the video!

[@pmtips4482]

Thank you for watching!

[@ybrik5937]

This is what I'll use, drip method. I was thinking to melt the sticks on a can, and pour in small crack. Your method is direct to the crack.

[@pmtips4482]

I think melting it into a can would be a good way to do it too. I'm going to try that next. Thanks!

[@ybrik5937]

@@pmtips4482 I just read on amazon reviews that another way is dragging the strip just on top of the crack while heating it. I could have tried with a heat gun which is cleaner but it will take a loooong time to melt it.

[@pmtips4482]

I tried that and mine was always wanting to coil up. Like it retained a memory. It would spring up and out of the crack. Next time I'll lay it out in the sun to allow it to spread out more. Thanks!

[@redditor7548]

If you are a home owner and have lots of cracks and want to do yourself buy the bricks the professional crack sealers use and put in a metal pot above a propane burner and let melt and carefully pour the crack sealant into an application vessel such as a metal watering can and pour directly on cracks and then squeegee with a u or v shape squeegee. Or just hire a professional.

[@pmtips4482]

Very good ideas! I think they can buy a better product too. Thanks!

[@WhiteBraveheart1]

I'd love to, but almost no one will ship their "hot patch" sealant to Alaska.

[@normbograham]

Back in the day, there were companies that would pay for a team of 4 guys, to spent half an hour per pot hole. (Basically, like $300 today). We would first melt "tack", which looks to be similar to your product, and heat the cracks, and pot holes. A generous coating smeared into the pothole, was then filled with a hot patch.

[@LouisianaTractorworks]

That's a cool way to seal them cracks! A second pass to catch the holidays is not bad. Have a great week Pm and Thanks for the tips!!

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks for watching John! I haven't heard the term "holidays" used for many years, my old line boss used it a lot to describe bad spots and runs in paint jobs we did on equipment. Lots of good memories too, didn't seem like it back then but looking back, there sure was. Have a good one!!

[@LouisianaTractorworks]

I picked that saying up when I was sandblasting & painting. lol

[@jdisdetermined]

This is *especially* helpful if you're applying in cold temps. If you do it on a hot sunny day and straighten and lay your coils out ahead of time, they will soften up and you can fit them onto the cracks easily and they will stay. But when they're cold and coiled, they are not easy to work with.. at all. Have you experimented with using mapp gas instead of propane for this method? I've always used propane to keep the asphalt cooler, but curious if when indirect heat melt dripping like this it could be a time saver maybe?

[@raczyk]

If crack is deep can you use sand or polymer sand to fill them top with pli stix

[@bev7063]

Can you use this for sealing around a pothole that was filled?

[@pmtips4482]

Yes, I think it would work. Good luck to you! Thanks for watching!

[@CaptainKurtAnnapolis]

Thank you this worked well.

[@pmtips4482]

Thank you for watching!

[@vicl5682]

where can i get the torch?

[@pmtips4482]

I put a link in the description. Thanks!

[@LarryJSabo]

I tried your method and made an awful mess where the melted tar accidentally touched the lip of the concrete garage floor, and the parging on either side of the garage. I was filling the gap between the garage floor lip and the asphalt drive. The dripping coil of sealant was difficult to hold steady as I uncoiled it with one hand and melted the end of it holding the torch with the other hand. Also, the flame from the propane touch scorched the concert floor and parging, leaving a dark or sooty look. I can hopefully clean the scorched areas using muriatic acid but I have no idea how I'm going to remove the tar splatters from the concrete. What a mess. When I reverted to the conventional method, all went extremely well and left a much neater finish.

[@pmtips4482]

If you lay it out in the hot sun, it will relax the coil a little, to where it's not wanting to curl back up all the time. Sorry about your mishap. Good luck!

[@jeffclark5024]

Lots of critics here but hey say do whatever works best for you! I used a similar method because getting this stuff to lay down in the cracks is a pain unless it fits perfectly. I used a similar method but I lay the melted bit right in the crack and drag it along kinda like I’m welding.

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks for sharing!

[@bev7063]

where do u get those sticks for melting?

[@pmtips4482]

Hello Bev, try "crack stix" and "pli stix" on amazon. Thanks for watching!

[@jasonsharpbucks]

@@pmtips4482 Menards, Home Depot, never Amazon, cancel prime if you have it

[@568843daw]

We used this stuff in multiple cracks and it was a waste of time. Hire a professional and let them use their hot asphalt machine to fix cracks. They clean the cracks out correctly and lay the mixture down properly. We amateurs just guess at it and than we go on KZbin to see how another amateurs does it.

[@engrxtn]

Lmao…you must be a person that works doing this.

[@kraigkauth698]

Very similar to soldering

[@pmtips4482]

Thanks for watching!

[@DevSwe]

Um no, that seems like an awful method

[@ultimaetsolder]

Very sloppy.