Athearn SW1500 vs REVOLUTION 1 Motor

[@13thBear]

Thanks for the info about the silicon tubing in the comment section. I need some of that to fix a few problems of my own. I gotta say that you and Classic Model Trains channel have given me the inspiration and detailed knowledge to get back to building and running my trains. I appreciate that!

[@elite194]

I've just entirely switched over to the silicone hose. So much easier and more reliable that the old way of shafts and joints. I had gone so far as designing and 3D printing all my own joints and shafts, but now it's hose all the way! 10 bucks is a lifetime supply!

[@13thBear]

@@elite194 Ordered mine tonight on Ebay! Ought to be here by Jan 10th. Thank you, thank you, for the info!

[@jagc1969]

Very good, sir. Very good. I'm also interested in putting my hands on some of these REV 1 motors...

[@elite194]

This Saturday at the train show - I'm bringing a bunch so I can land a couple dealers! Confidence is high.

[@WWIIREBEL]

I truly hope these REV 1 motors will be available....i would love to try a few out in a couple of my own switchers,lol.

[@elite194]

I'm taking them to the train show this Saturday and hopefully my favorite sellers will start selling them!

[@mikemunley9563]

Love the video. Glad the rev1s are working out. How much weight/tractive force did you lose dumping the two flywheels? I have a 3% slope on my layout and weight in the locos matters. You have sold me on silicone driveshafts. Do they lower the noise perceptibly?

[@elite194]

way less noise, all you can hear are the gears and those have no grease yet. the lead shims I used weigh about the same as the flywheels and with this motor you can go up ludicrous grades pulling cars at super slow speeds! I'm taking a batch of motors to the train show on Saturday and hopefully a couple of my favorite sellers will start offering them!

[@jpkarenko6952]

There seems to be a huge pent-up demand for the REV 1's. I hope you have a pile of them available, because I would like a few of them, too. The Chinese have a saying: Shin-yien, fah-tah! Happy New Year. Make money!

[@elite194]

I've got the pile! Now I need to talk my sellers into carrying them.... this Saturday at the train show! I've got plan A,B,C and D to find the right dealer!

[@jpkarenko6952]

@@elite194 Which show? A Train Trek could be in order.

[@elite194]

Way down in Albert Lea Minnesota - it's a 2 day show, mostly flea market, but lots of my favorite regular sellers. Everyone knows it as the secret train show because they advertise only by fliers. It takes over the entire NorthBridge Mall, no charge for entrance, Saturday and Sunday.

[@jpkarenko6952]

@@elite194 Dang! Minn-a-soh-da is a bit too far for a road trip. Let us all know how the vendor thing works out. You may have a Tiger by the tail... Thanks.

[@BobBob-yu1nk]

I use weed eater fuel hose what silicone hose do you use?

[@elite194]

I use food grade silicone hose 1x4mm from ebay - super flexible and doesn't get dry or stiff!

[@salvatoresutera4188]

Can you do a remotor to replace the rubber band drive on a blue box Athearn RDC? Thank You

[@elite194]

I sure can! I've got 2 in the junk yard that I want to get running using some VCR/TAPE player drive belts - those belts are dirt cheap when you but a bag full and they don't wear out for decades! Also one of my RDC has a very unusual clever modification to keep the belts in place!

[@salvatoresutera4188]

@@elite194 Thank You for answering. I meant changing the rubber band drive. In other words a drive that doesn't use the rubber bands. Something without using a belt drive.

[@elite194]

I've been thinking about that myself so I can someday make a B-B diesel - on the RDC, I'd start by replacing the shafts with silicone. If that works as well as I think it will, then I'll replace a truck with a blue box truck - next thing you know, step by step, it's solved!! Then we completely scratch build one from nothing!

[@salvatoresutera4188]

@@elite194 I have been thinking about doing a remotor & new drive using just what you said but don't know what BB trucks & motor would work on that frame. BB Athearns are my favorite. If you decide to do this conversion please let me know. I'm on old timer & could use your help. Thank You again for answering.

[@elite194]

for the RDC, you can use the "large torque mini 280 24v motor" - tha'ts what I would use since there is so much room inside. blue box trucks that will work are from the U28B-U33B series blue box. those would be my first choice since you're beefing up the power plant. you can use metal sideframe version or plastic sideframe version or mix them. sometimes you can get the set of sideframes that are white metal FB-2 that were used to replace the metal sideframes on the original. that would be really cool!

[@mitchbosley5008]

Where do you purchase replacement motors from

[@elite194]

nowhere yet - but this Saturday I'm bringing a bunch to the train show hoping to get a couple of my favorite sellers to start offering them!

[@hjmiller2689]

REV1 motors, is elite194’s domain. However the FS-280 or FN-280 motors are readily available on eBay for around $3.25/motor. They ship from China, so they’ll take a bit with it, so be patient

[@elite194]

I've gotten 280s in about 10 days lately.. I fear the stockpile of the good ones has about a year before they disappear like the the Lexus motors I used to love!

[@petescouve]

Are you still making the Rev 1 motors?

[@elite194]

@@petescouve the first production run is complete, before it runs out I'll get the run in the works!

[@alexandersprunt9448]

Kadee makes a point of specifying that couplers with plastic shanks be used with locomotives. You mentioned using no. 5's and no. 148's with this locomotive. Are plastic shanks not necessary so long as the frame is electrically isolated from the tracks and motor? Also, hope you succeed in finding a seller for the REV1!

[@elite194]

If you use the Kadee draft gear boxes, they have an insulating sleeve that protects the coupler from the screw!! you only need isolation when using the coupler cover that comes with all Athearn blue box and a few others. in those locomotives the coupler touches the frame directly, but what we did was file the coupler pad so a coupler inside and insulated box would be totally safe! also I know a member of a club that has a store inside the club and I think I can get them on board with carrying the REV1 - hopefully it goes well!

[@BigDaddy-ms7gm]

Are these Revolution 1 motors available anywhere? If not, what's a good substitute? Thank you.

[@elite194]

send me an email from my ABOUT page

[@moogman1978]

How good do these motors creep at super slow speeds? Where can I buy these motors?

[@elite194]

they will beat anything out there. the closest is the 280 motor, but that one only fits a very few locomotives that are old enough to have wide hoods, like the Athearn Trainmaster. The REV1 is based on the 280, but in a size that fits new locomotives with scale width hoods. Right now, I can't get more, hopefully that will change soon. I had them made specially to my specs. Send me an email from the contact info.

[@moogman1978]

@@elite194 Also, I'm looking for a good small motor for switchers as well. Any help me be awesome. Thank you

[@elite194]

@@moogman1978 24v dual shaft FK-130 is what I used in the Athearn Hustler. Very powerful at slow speeds!

[@farmerdave7965]

Is that a 5 pole skew wound motor ?

[@elite194]

no, much more modern

[@bernadettegarbers9552]

Just wondering if you're stripping parts out atherine locomotives what are you going to do with the parts if nothing els is there any way I can obtain them....

[@elite194]

I've got a few friends that are always needing parts - so much so that I had to learn to 3D print a bunch of the parts!

[@bernadettegarbers9552]

@@elite194 I was wondering cuz I do have local motors that are lacking certain I'm always looking on eBay for parts parts I do have a very old Atherine PA1. Locomotive with flywheel drive missing the forward drive shaft there is a short and a long one I'm missing the long one....

[@elite194]

use the silicone hose! 1x4mm food grade silicone hose on amazon! you'll never need drive shafts and u-joints every again! the hose has a 1mm inside diameter hole and a wall thickness of about 1.5 - 2mm thick. 1 roll is a lifetime supply for about $10!

[@bowlerguy219]

How do we get these motors?

[@elite194]

send me an email from my about page

[@hobbeekid]

No room for the flywheels with the motor change???

[@elite194]

I don't use flywheels - the REV1 motor is much more accurate than other motors so when you use the digital momentum you get very precise response!