Ender 3 Pro Upgrades - 2021

In this video I go over my top useful upgrades for the Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro and give away a free 3D printer !
Please let me know what you think of the video and if I should do more like it (and more giveaways)!
When it comes to upgrading your 3D printer, you can really spend days even weeks looking through all the upgrades and trying to decide what to print. In reality, not all of the upgrades are useful so in this video I try and go over the ones I have found to actually help improve print quality, reduce the risk of fire and electrical problems, and improve organization and efficiency.
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Products I use daily and recommend
Best Printer Under $500 - amzn.to/2NZHDhP
Glass Bed - amzn.to/3FUTVg8
Slight upgrade to Ender 3 - amzn.to/2NYiYtU
Best Overall Printer - shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=ahart
Larger Print Bed Printer - amzn.to/31nl0XJ
BL Touch (I dont use this one, but some people like them) - amzn.to/3nSFdA7
Adhesive - amzn.to/3aihIcZ
Bearings (608 2R2) - amzn.to/3p9SlSz
Screw Set - amzn.to/3eHwUTI
BEST superglue for parts - amzn.to/3fOrA0H
Best Amazon Filament - amzn.to/3qSlX6D
Best PLA Filament (Pastel colors seen in the video) - Ecotough PLA 2.0
bit.ly/3vh6eyH
Ventilation Set Up (recommended)
Duct- amzn.to/3HCBwWJ
Fan- amzn.to/31tEWM5
Design Software I use - aklam.io/wRPufI
FILES USED IN THE VIDEO - Please note. Lots of files fit both the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro, just make sure to check the Thingiverse description and comments section..
Bed Knobs - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4230695
LED Light Bar - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3272248
Extruder Fan - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343456
LCD Knob - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822708
Rail Covers - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3379068
Spool Roller (No bearings) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4109113
Spool Roller (With bearings)- www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211
Filament Guide 1 - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932
Filament Guide 2 (bearing) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488
Bed Handle - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3117709
Fan (by SD card reader) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204
Tool Holder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3057351
Z Knob - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3548507
LCD PCP Cover - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858209
Drawer (make sure it is for your correct printer) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989218
Drawer 2 (Ender 3 Pro) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416444
Chain I used in the video - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3769941
PSU (power supply unit) Fan - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328495
Tool Holder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3877505
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👀 WHO AM I ?!
After graduating from Engineering school I pursued a quick professional football career in the Canadian Football League. I retied from the CFL after just two years to focus on business development and investing. I currently own and operate an engineering design and 3D printing company and a few other businesses that are discussed on this channel !
📝Get in touch with me here - [e-mail]
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Affiliate Disclaimer - Some of the links are affiliate links where I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

[@AustenHartley]

Updated Links Bearings - amzn.to/3p9SlSz Screws - amzn.to/3hdoQed Bowden Tube - amzn.to/3kjiCeZ Filament - amzn.to/3feFzg5 Glue + Activator for attaching printed parts - amzn.to/3IWHKT4

[@Daveyk021]

I printed that filament cooling ring you suggested. With it installed, I can not make any prints anymore. It cools the filament off before it hit the bed. So for now, I rate it a thumbs down and will go back to stock.

[@AustenHartley]

@@Daveyk021 Cooling before the filament hits the bed, I have never seen or observed this before haha. Make sure to check your printing temps and type of filament. If that fan addition had the ability to cool before the filament hits the bed I think we would see it on every single printer ever made :)

[@Daveyk021]

@@AustenHartley I am too new to know a good answer. I put the stock part cooler on and it started working fine again. I tried several bed temps ranging from 50-65. Using inland White PLA. Usually set it at 210, but with this I tried 210-220. It just created strings. I love the idear of that circular part cooler. It would be a big help building parts that need external supports added. I will try the shorter version again once I get a few parts printed. I am now printing that filament roller with bearings (that should be in today.

[@Daveyk021]

@@AustenHartley I wish I could say why. I played with several bed temperature and numerous filament temperatures. All I could print was plastic string - lol. Now I was using the taller one (it's not much taller, very little difference). I will try the shorter one, maybe tomorrow. 8-). I did print the roller wheel assembly for the filament entering the extruder. Got the bearings for it today. It works and looks perfect! I did have to ream the bushing holes out with an exacto and then run the assembled wheel (spinning of course) over sandpaper a few times to keep it from binding to the holder frame. I want to make the Z-AXIS handle, but mainly for looks. I really do not see a need for it (yet). If I want to move the axis up, I just do it through the front panel, or if the steppers are un-locked or the printer is off, you can just pull up on the x-axis bar (to me in the UT Immersion world, that is the Y-AXIS. X-AXIS goes the length and Y the width, but it opposite with the 3-D printer.

[@JoseAzua]

I believe the slot covers should hug the rail and use the slot cover as a guide sliding in not just inserted ha unless I inserted mine in correctly

[@nigelyam38]

at this point ender 3 is basically skyrim, it work out of the box, but you can also put 100 mods to make it better

[@bigguns711]

This guy gettts it!!!!!

[@POQUEX]

I mean, I had to mod the firmware of mines before the first succesfull print (manual mesh leveling issues)

[@Urist_Mythrilforged]

Only difference is that it doesn't crash if you have all the mods.

[@jimsinnovations2737]

And even with all the upgrades it's still cheaper then ones already upgraded and sell for more and the prusa and many others. Same quality prints, way cheaper

[@irisramer8622]

But Skyrim didn't work out of the box

[@grimairbrush]

TIP with the V slot covers, the thin side is up and the angle below takes the metal part of the frame, then slide it in, it gives you more height and also stops dust getting under, rather than having the thin side down

[@borisgraell]

🤣

[@5FSF]

One of the most important parts about running the BLtouch is not ease of use as much as it is to create a bed mesh. When it probes various locations it compares the height of each of them and then generates the new zero for that spot where it actually physically reaches the bed and adjusts for that during the print. For example, you might have a slightly warped carriage that has some warping near one of the corners. Trying to correct that by simply adjusting the knob will actually change the slope of your print bed in a way that can cause issues on the non-warped areas. There are only two solutions for this: 1. buy a new carriage or 2. Use a BL touch to generate a bed mesh. When you take that into consideration, the ease of using a BL touch compared to manual leveling is the cherry-on-top to save you some time, not the main feature.

[@Jack5822]

I agree, 100%. I level my bed when heated, and prints come out nearly perfect at the corners, but the father they get from the corners the worse they are. My glass bed is lower in the center. I plan to add BL touch so it could detect that and help my prints come out better across the entire surface.

[@thegreenemachine992]

Even better if you can get a visualization using octoprint or klipper!

[@Vash.Baldeus]

I got an Ender 3 v2, before upgrading it, after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued, got BL Touch, leveled bed, adjusted z-offset and that is it. No longer the printer starts grinding the nozzle on the bed at all. And less releveling! So yes, for certain cases BLTouch can improve.

[@AustenHartley]

That is good to hear ! definitely works for some. Appreciate the comment ! Cheers !

[@sgtkabukiman9411]

The BL Touch is is not meant to compensate for the levelness of the bed but rather the flatness of the bed plate. You're still meant to manually level periodically. The BL Touch measures for warping caused by frequent heating/cooling cycles and adjust the amount of filament extruded to compensate. if you have a dip in the middle of the bed, no amount of manual levelling is going to fix the bed/layer adhesion problems you'll have. The BL Touch will extrude a little more filament into the dip on the first layer so the subsequent layers are properly level.

[@Vash.Baldeus]

@@sgtkabukiman9411 I am fully aware, but I prefer leveling it every 5 or so prints and not every god darn print, makes it easier for me.

[@ModelLights]

'after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued,' Realize though, with this happening, you have something much more fundamental going on. Rarely even have to adjust my bed at all on the CR-10, and the Ender has basically the same bed design. Two main culprits, first being the bed wheels. Instead of out at each side of the bed like they should be, it's supported very near the center, so small angle changes can make larger changes by the time you get to the side of the bed. These need to be adjusted to near perfect, too tight binds and shifts due to the bearings being too tight, and too lose allows shifting. You have to take out all possible play but be just under binding anywhere. Looking at it, why they moved the wheels in closer on the bed is beyond reasoning. In the direction of travel they should be as far apart as possible on the bottom of the bed, that's free extra accuracy. The other main culprit is your bed level is stable, but your X carriage is not. You want to adjust the free side of the X arm a millimeter or two high, so when the carriage is moved to that side it comes down to even since it's mainly supported on one side. You have to make sure that the wheels on both sides have minimized play but do not bind, both when the carriage is on the left and on the right. And of course the X carriage wheels have to be correct as well, but it's easier to feel the X carriage moving or binding so most people notice that more easily. The wheel system can work, but it requires good adjustment to be reasonably precise and repeatable. Almost all of the 'my printer isn't precise and repeatable' problems in Creality printers trace back to these. Once you're set up for the day and have the bed level you should hardly ever have to mess with your bed. Even every 5 prints you almost guaranteed have some other more fundamental problem causing your bed to shift around instead of being smooth and precise. Undo your belts and move everything around by hand and it should all glide smoothly and precisely, no real wobble and only smooth deflection even when you push on the edge of the bed. If you feel much of anything other than smooth motion while doing it by hand, you have problems. And be aware, the plastic tires on these wheels can develop flat spots if the forces are too high on them and they aren't moved for a while, which can throw everything off Even one of my machines did this, I had left the X carriage up off the bed for a good while, and the weight was putting pressure on the wheels on the X arm.. Even if your issue ends up being something different, realize you have an issue going on and your bed shouldn't be changing that often, something is shifting.

[@Jirk4]

@@sgtkabukiman9411 No, BLTouch/3DTouch creates a mesh map of your bed and applies correction to Z axis so the nozzle height is consistent across any [X,Y] coordinates. So it can compensate for unleveled bed as well, easily. I have not leveled my bed once since installing 3DTouch years ago.

[@YeetDisDude]

I recommend using clips for your glass bed. As he said, you can just put the glass on the heated bed and take it out. I would not recommend that because the speed of the Y axis will move the glass bed and cause some really bad layer shifts.

[@robnixon515]

Clips are not optional, your plate will slip all over the place if your bed is actually flat and you don’t clamp it down. I don’t think he meant that you shouldn’t clip your glass plate.

[@duck7927]

I use kapton tape. Way better

[@P4P5]

The best upgrades for my Ender 3 V2 were Bondtech BMG extruder, spool holder and better part cooling. It drastically improved print quality.

[@punisherhemi6008]

A cr touch was pretty much a mandatory with my ender 3 considering the bed came warped from the factory. Messed with the bed for a few months got sick and dealing with it. And installed the cr touch Absolutely love the cr touch

[@shanemeyer9224]

Your episode is fantastic and very informative, but the only thing I strongly disagree with it the BLtouch, especially being an engineer I would expect you to love it as higher accuracy is always better, I bought an Ender with a terrible glass bed and struggle for a very long time trying to level it well. I ended up buying a BLtouch(a real BLtouch) and truly feel this has been the single most important thing I've done to my printer period, I now never ever have to fuss with getting my bed perfectly leveled and then make sure the clearance is right and all corners are the same, I hit new bed mesh and then set the Z height to where I like it and thats it absolutely 💯 accurate, I can even remove the glass bed and swap a pei sheet on it and I don't even have calibrate or adjust anything it always keeps the nozzle exactly the right height off the bed

[@ruktou64]

Guess I got some stuff to print. Just got an ender 3 pro for $75 after coupons from micro center so its time to finally get into this hobby.

[@ttgaming8762]

at first I thought "nooo Bltouch is not necessary" but since I have one I can't live without it.😁

[@alextaylor1216]

Switch the orientation of the aluminum extrusion covers! The smaller part should be facing “up”. Great videos!!

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks Alex ! Yeah they are definitely in upside down. I think I was too focused on having the textured print side showing haha. Cheers,

[@thack2502]

@@AustenHartley They are not upside down, But you did put them in too low. The top surface should be flush with the Aluminium top. The V slots into the V not under it.

[@Matoikey]

@@thack2502 No Alex is right. The smaller bit is the top, and the wider part is the bottom. Originally thought the opposite myself before I printed them for my machine.

[@mjy]

@@Matoikey Exactly. It even specifically states to do so in the description ("Insert in the extrusion with the widest part at the bottom."), not to mention that is how it is pictured in the example images.

[@SpartanR61]

I was wondering if someone else saw that...

[@benhockley]

I thought the BLTouch was pointless when I first got it, but it won me over the time when I needed to tweak the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter closer, and all I had to do was tweak the Z offset and it just worked without having to do any physical adjustments.

[@jimsinnovations2737]

What is your offset I'm having trouble getting mine working, do u have bed leaving checked in the settings, I'm using jyers

[@ivolol]

@@jimsinnovations2737 Offset always varies printer to printer, it is useless getting someone else's.

[@jimsinnovations2737]

@@ivolol I've figured that out now lol

[@Aloolf]

+1, I've been using a BLTouch and now that I try to get the best quality out of my printer I disabled Mesh Leveling but still use BLTouch for Auto Home, as it's the easiest and safest way to adjust the Nozzle height without risking to lose your perfectly leveled bed

[@SuspisiouslyMango]

My BLTouch didn't work so how did you make it work

[@deltacx1059]

11:08 except it is not complex in the slightest compared to the parts already on the printer, and realistically you will never have a perfectly flat bed so a bed leveling probe is a pretty good upgrade. It has a more pronounced effect on big printers like a cr-10 max, they make things quite easy regarding leveling because they will compensate for distortions unless the bed is way off.

[@DarrenGerbrandt]

Just some notes, the spool roller w/bearings is really nice been using it for almost a year now, same with both filament guides although I have recently moved the spool holder off to the side and no longer need the guide for the top bar, however, the one that goes on the extruder is still in use, now in regards to the drawers, if you have big hands like me and you manually level your bed DO NOT put this on your printer, I did, thought it was great, put all my tools in it... then I needed to level my bed one day and boy does this drawer get in the way of trying to get at the knobs. I think it lasted maybe a month before I was too frustrated with it to keep in on the printer, and it only lasted that long because I did like it but in the end, it was just too much hassle.

[@hypocritical7379]

on the bltouch, if you hate manual leveling and have the money, BUY IT! Its easy to install, and works better than he says. You wont have to deal with drift with the knobs. It can have problems with erroring, but thats usually when you are leveling it. You can load your bed mesh in your slice.

[@JIMMCCRANK]

Great video, I'm glad I found your site and now subscribed to it. I have an Ender 3Pro and really enjoy it. I have printed many of the upgrades and now ready for more things to do. I also found the chain is not a great item but everyone should at least give it a try. The rail covers are one of the easiest to print and add the most noticeable color to the machine and the fact that they are easy to change so printing different colors for a quick look is fun. looking forward to more of your videos and hopefully selling prints in the future.

[@AustenHartley]

Hey Jim ! Thanks so much for the kind words ! Thats fantastic and I totally agree with the chain and rail covers.

[@Saintious]

I just purchased my ender 3 pro today. I started with a monoprice voxel two months ago and had to return it. After 2 weeks of learning and research the ender 3 pro is best for my knowledge level and upgrading. Thank you for all of the information. Can't wait for more...

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks Chris !! Can't wait for you guys to see the next one ! Happy printing !

[@filmodpetra]

If you are willing to invest a bit in upgrades, than this is my list: 32 bit board BTT Pad 7 BL or CR touch, Sprite Pro extruder kit Flexible print steel sheet And a good firmware with configured imput shaping and linear advance. If you want to save some money, dont buy the BTT Pad 7 Klipper pad. You can run imput shaping and linear advance on a 32 bit board with marlin.

[@Mathoose]

You mentioned the sales on the Ender 3 Pro and you’re right! I got $100 off of one at microcenter from an instagram add so all-in-all came home with it for $99!!! Insane! First printer I’ve ever built and it was printing within 90 minutes. So happy with it and the quality

[@mvictorine]

This is amazing! Thank you so much!! I can't wait to dive into this hobby.

[@AustenHartley]

Happy for you !! You’re gunna love it! It will go out Monday . Thanks Michael !

[@Boozamn]

Considering the upgrades this is gonna be one bad beast, and should hopefully make the dive into the hobby that much more enjoyable!! Congrats and maybe post in Austen's comments from time to time with updates - I'd definitely love a peek I to that (:

[@mathewmorton6694]

I think the cool part about upgrading your printer is a good idea because it lets you learn to use it at a minimalist lvl. Lights a fire.

[@TealJosh]

I've heard way too many stories of warped glass print beds so there's no way I'm not getting bl touch. Even if I don't need it, it's better to have one than miss it. I'm going to get ender 3 max soon, which ships with glass bed.

[@sethcoode6456]

Yeah he is completely wrong about ABL. They should be called Auto Bed Level Compensators, since they do not change the actual level of the bed but CAN account for warped beds that are known QC issue with ender 3s

[@theoneand0nly874]

What’s bl touch ?

[@TealJosh]

@@theoneand0nly874 it's a small probe that can be bought seperately and attached to the print head. It's used for automatic bed leveling.

[@996pat]

The Ender 3 Pro doesn't have the electronics fan on the top of the printer so you won't need that cover on the Pro version. For the bed i def recommend a PEI Flex plate over a Glass bed. we were running 2 ender 3 Pro's with glass beds 24/7 and have swapped both of those out to PEI Flex plates and def won't go back to the glas beds.

[@JeffreyKretzler]

The pi is a must for all people. I curently have about 5 in my home doing different things. Cheap game server for older games, 3D print server, but my all time favorite.... the Pihole for disabling all online ads.

[@SM64BLJ]

Lol! You out the vslot covers in upside down! I did the same thing when I put them on my ender...looks much better now!

[@MikeHawke]

You may not like the touch probes but when the bed isn't flat out of the factory, it doesn't matter how much levelling you do... you can't adapt for high and low points across the board by wiping a piece of paper on each corner a couple of times. Touch probes are fantastic, yes it took a bit of set up and messing about, but my printer runs a check every time its switched on and i don't think i've touched the manual dials since installing it.

[@ThatUnfunGuy]

Just a quick tip, if you have an old phone lying around, then you can use that for octoprint. You can even use the build in camera and flash of the phone.

[@Jhale716]

Bed leveling is much easier when you change the springs and do the leveling correctly, most instructions miss doing this correctly. Have a glass bed ender 3 pro and don’t need glue or adhesive for PLA, and for PETG only need glue as a medium to ensure it releases from the glass. Have done a thingy on thingiverse that covers leveling, search my name there to find it.

[@tommydoh]

very professional, haven't got an ender 3 but have a similar looking machine so look forward to using the upgrades.

[@jimmysgameclips]

I appreciate that the ender 2 pro has a couple of these upgrades already but I'm definitely going to print a few of these for it

[@whydnot]

Thanks for the video. I’ll be making some changes to my printer when it shows up.

[@gmanproductions82gmanprodu95]

Just subbed really liked the video it is gonna make my 3d printing some much easier

[@DakotahHoskins1038]

Bro. How do you have only 13k? Your channel is ready to blow up anytime now! Subbing and already picked up some things from you list here!

[@AustenHartley]

Thank you !! I hope so !

[@napieraustin]

Just picked up a brand new ender3 on a auction for $110! Just did test print and came out perfect. Now for upgrades. Awesome video.

[@firecatinblack]

Just got my first ender 3 printer a few days ago and really like all of these upgrades, thanks for making this video :D

[@AustenHartley]

Amazing !! Welcome to the community !

[@WilliamKennedy-q6o]

have stared 3d printing big learning curve cause you may only have good prints so its fun to learn

[@scottkeith7005]

I had a manual bed for years, I won't go back... Love my printers with BL or CR touch. Makes things a ton easier. I think your rail slot covers were supposed to be placed a little higher...

[@WilliamKennedy-q6o]

with all these extras like building a gamer desk top pc cleanning and cooling

[@Lurieh]

The "ng design" drag chain's design seems wrong to me. It doesn't prevent the wire from bending in a very small arc as I think they should. This chain can bend in an arc with a very small radius, maybe 5mm or less. Which would means that using the chain won't protect the wire from bending fatigue.

[@billgreen7148]

Great video! Ordered a 3 pro arriving today. These will be some of my first prints (to learn) Thanks! I didn't see the link for the Bowman tube.

[@galkawarrior]

I like that extruder fan duct. Is there one for the Ender 3 V2?

[@jacoblogan23]

Honestly the BL touch is a must have imo. With creality's notorious reputation for warped beds, it's reduced the headaches and failed prints significantly, especially when working with abs and asa

[@22Tech]

Yeah that’s what i was thinking. No amount of leveling will help a warped bed

[@paolo69]

I dont use It and i never had a problem with abs failing because of bed craziness

[@archemides1517]

@@paolo69 yeah but there is also a reason they are just standard now on almost every new printer. simplicity, it removes that headache of trying to dial in the bed and even better mesh level corrects for manufacturing defects no amount of tinkering will fix

[@paolo69]

@@archemides1517 i printed a support to recycle the Z switch into an auto bed leveling device ill admit that i love It It saves so much time 3 months ago me was an idiot

[@angusnelligan8175]

9:56 me with a bltouch: I am 4 parallel universes ahead of you

[@DChamp56]

Incredible video! I don't own a printer yet, but things like this help me know which to buy!

[@sreekanthmk86]

Awesome... everything in one place.. Thankyou for sharing 👍👍👍

[@adinroberts4528]

Love the video dude, im looking to by a ender 3 pro for my dad so this is a good help for finding my first prints

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks Adin !

[@adinroberts4528]

@@AustenHartley no thank you!

[@SUBtrauma]

I'm in school for engineering design! Got a sub! I also just ordered my very first printer after getting addicted to it at school.

[@154g]

Where does one buy this from? Local or china?

[@SUBtrauma]

I don't understand what you're asking me... you can buy 3d printers in nearly every country.. "local" doesn't tell me anything, because idk if you live in a city or in some village in a tiny country.. microcenter sells them. A .2 second google search will be 100000x more helpful than a stranger on the internet

[@glenthompson291]

I would recommend printing a storage container that attaches to the V slot covers, It is convenient for misc. tools. Also the BL touch and now the Creality CR touch are great for mapping the warping of the bed. over time the print bed warps and the sensor can account for that when printing.

[@TheMrBrksi]

I have an regular non PRO Ender 3 for about 2 weeks, one of most important upgrade/modification for me was to connect motherboard box fan to extruder fan (always on) because for some reason Creality decided to put both of them under part cooling control. So I printed 2 prints of ABS without cooling of the motherboard. (ABS=part cooling fan 0%) Also, white USB card reader burns cards if they slightly moved, it burned 2 of my SD cards. Fan issue affect to my knowledge all of Ender 3 (PRO, V2) not sure about other models.

[@mathieu2109]

The ammount of problems i've had over the last couple of weeks on my ender lol. Some things just happen and I may have made a fwew mistakes but fwew

[@xXKisskerXx]

my ender 3 is working great.. I bought it a couple years ago and have printed as a hobby.. using.. maybe 5kg of filament so far (so not a ton I guess?) I don't know most of the problems people talk about.. but I have come to a few things: 1) I don't really use the aluminum bed/build tacky surface - mine came with the Glass+textured top bed (Corundum glass bed) - and I've never used anything else to print on - it's great. so the 'warped bed' issues people complain about - I don't know if my bed was warped or not, because I have a glass bed on top of the heat bed. 2) build errors. assembling it is .. nerve wracking for some. any misalignment can mean disasters in the future, so quality checking each step is really desirable.

[@Zippyshock]

Thanks for making this video. I just got an ender 3 pro and I got a lot of upgrades to do :P

[@kanaancross317]

The best chain would need pins to hold it in place properly

[@MagiqFingersShorts]

bed leveling isnt difficult, and i have never run into issues with it, an auto leveling system is still better for a more consistent result throughout your build plate and only takes an extra 30 seconds and i never have to do it again

[@williamwiese9963]

Dam, I'm always late to give aways. Great video!! subscribed!

[@redrockvideoproductions]

I hate to say this but you don't really need a BL-Touch anymore, just use simple sugar water, all you need is a microwave tolerant glass, 1/2 teaspoon of table sugar and two or three drops of water then you stir the mixture up and put it in the microwave for 5 secs, no more. All you need is the yellow springs , and just level the bed once.

[@jamesvandromiv8406]

New to the hobby. Just saw this video and WOW great information and layout. 100% subscribe thank you for info.

[@jayantibhaichauhan56]

Very nice guideline for Elder use and upgrade

[@Smarti0101]

I use my old Galaxy S6Edge as a print server with Octo4a. Works good!

[@techsavvyhero]

Lots of great upgrades described here. Good explanations. Cheers!

[@jasdrawssometimes4660]

I feel like some of these are just because it’s fun to make things that just make it ur own 😅 I respect it!

[@rickyrivera5316]

Thank You so much for this video Im getting into printing and so excited for it !

[@TwinLions777]

How did it go? I just got mine yesterday. Haven't set it up yet

[@ddeboy002]

I used plastic pc tubing for the cable housing. NO issues.

[@writer8706]

two years later and i can tell you no a BL touch is not a waste of money you go from having to level the bed every time to having to only level the bed when it gets way out of wack. just make sure you ad the line of code to each print that creates a new mesh and you will get amazing first layers each time.

[@derekmcdonald2168]

I like to imagine this is me in a few years when I finish my engineering degree and have some printers :) fingers crossed!

[@AustenHartley]

100% ! Good luck with the degree !

[@oddpigeon4147]

good luck!

[@bac26c]

Bro - this could be you now!!! Don’t let time hold you back. I did and I regretted it. Aim high!

[@NGCgalaxy]

If you got the money go for it now. You don't need a degree to start in this field. Start now and when you hopefully finish your degree you'll already have some good experience and momentum in this field!

[@chadkoyan3096]

Dude just buy a voxelab aquila it's $178 and it's the same thing as the ender 3 v2.

[@JustJosh20]

So in order to prevent plastic from falling into the slots, we fill them with plastic? Nice

[@brianhilligoss]

The pro has a UL listed power supply. That alone makes it worth more.

[@SetForTheSky1]

NEVER remove both fan screws on your power supply at the same time!!! The fan will fall into the power supply housing and you will have to disassemble it to get it back in place! Rather do one at a time if you are installing the PSU fan baffle! Trust me, I speak from experience.

[@AustenHartley]

haha I did this too. You just have to take the front plate off and hold the fan while you screw it in. But yes very annoying :p

[@matthew33721]

Bed leveling issues are fixed by leveling after a 30 minute preheat to 5° over what you print

[@joetrevino1607]

glass bed really huge difference when removing prints

[@Creality3D]

Great video, thanks for doing this

[@AustenHartley]

You should send me an email ! Maybe we can do another giveaway for the viewers of this channel :) [e-mail]

[@mikemarra9994]

Just got my Ender 3 Pro, Love your style, definitely subsribing.

[@AustenHartley]

Appreciate it Mike ! Welcome to the 3D printing community !

[@foxlyfe5175]

I add a little table top epoxy to gun wash and I wipe my glass plate and man does it work extremely extremely well and 90% time it releases on its own after cooling!

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks for the tip ! Thats awesome

[@symbolicsin]

The only thing I disagree with is the glass bed. Wasn't impressed when I used one, Now a Magnetic PEI Sheet. That's where it's at.

[@AustenHartley]

Pros and cons to both haha. The glass bed is definitely the one stop solution, especially if you are using a variety of materials. Magnetic PEI sheet is a great choice too though !

[@foohey87]

@@AustenHartley I got a glass bed for my ender 3 pro, was replaced very fast. Glass has nothing on PEI/PEX, Im now using the Wham Bam Pex flexible bed and its better than glass in every way.

[@AustenHartley]

I too have a textured sheet, there is one on the Raise Pro 2 in the video I am posting today. The issue is the adhesion to the bed with a textured sheet is much lower than that of a glass print bed. If you print a file that has a large surface area on the first layer, the probability of the corners lifting, is much higher on a textured sheet than it is on glass, especially with PETG or ABS.

[@foohey87]

@@AustenHartley wham bam pex bed is smoother than the glass bed. Not textured at all. You should give one a try! Also i find glass is the worst for adhesion. Everyone who uses glass seems to need hair spray or glue. With the pex ive never needed anything. Not trying to sound nasty or anything. Just saying what ive found. Keep up the great work!

[@AustenHartley]

@@foohey87 yeah sounds good man ! I come at things from a production point of view and have had the best luck by far with glass. Whatever works for each person is the best solution for them. Everyone has preferences and different experiences. Cheers !

[@Jeremy_Davis]

The only reason I have the BL touch is because I have a slight dip. Honestly I don’t even know if the thing is actually working but it’s just something extra on top of a decently trammed printer.

[@NuttyCrack3r]

I got a glass bed and honestly hated it, I much prefer the magnetic steel bed from enomaker

[@NomadMakes]

Hi. I really appreciate your candidness when it comes to the probes. Have you done a video on upgrades that can improve print quality for the ender 3, and wheter they actually work? You did metion the bowden tube, the bl-touch and glass bed. But how about other upgrades, like nossels and direct drive? Thanks for a great video. Cheers.

[@AlmightyAhab]

Aye love to see the Order of the Engineer ring on you. Great vid

[@seanpuello]

Had a ender 3 for 2 years. Never had to buy a BLT touch. I level the bed as I print.

[@ImmelmanLoop]

Hi, great video, but, for the fan cover on the power supply, in the video, both screws are undone at once. DO NOT DO THIS. The fan will fall off, you can see it happening in the video, your power supply will no longer be cooled. Take off the bottom screw, do that mostly up with the cover, then do the top screw after the bottom one is definitely securing the fan.

[@AustenHartley]

You can just open the cover and put the fan back on.

[@AustenHartley]

But yes it is easier to do it without the fan moving.

[@ImmelmanLoop]

Opening it is a good idea but often, capacitors can be found which could give a 240v shock on the primary winding, wich is not good

[@muttbone01]

The very first thing I upgraded on my Ender 3 Pro, an I rarely hear anyone talk about it, is putting terminal crimp blocks on the power supply leads instead of the raw wire. Much less risk. Also, the XT-60 connector to the bed is NOT an original one, but a cheap chinesium one that is prone to burning up, as the tolerances on the cheap one is terrible. Original AMASS XT-60 connectors are dirt cheap, can have a back of 10 pairs for like $4 depending on where you shop.

[@4kguys]

Where is the motor cover STL? I liked that a lot. Great video!

[@protocol3228]

I have a glass print bed but it’s from a window still works good

[@AustenHartley]

Careful cause if you heat it up to ABS temps and then cool it fast it could shatter !

[@LiLLaW1982]

I’ve found the glass beds that ender has are just rubbish. I had a hell of a time with my ender 5 plus’ glass bed. And it was silly weak. Regular pla ripped a chunk out of it :-/ Just go with a pei sheet instead and never look back. Glass makes baby Jesus cry.

[@Daveyk021]

I think on my Ender 3 Pro they mounted the electronics box upside down to keep the plastic out of the fan. The SD Card reader is at the top. Which by the way is a real pain in the ass when you insert the SD Card and it falls to the bottom when missing the socket.

[@gamerman276]

CR touch helped me a lot. my Ender 3 pro was 79.99, after assembly it didn't even work :( I bought a silent motherboard 4.2.7 and it started printing, however, the aluminum heat bed was so bent up. The previous owner must have been rough with it because I could only print in certain small areas of the bed. when I moved the Y axis I would see the extruder going up and down even after I got a glass bed! So I tightened my bed a bit and got the cl touch and after auto leveling, it can print on the entire surface. I ordered a new aluminum heat bed and I only expect more improvements.

[@mikeoverbay4594]

You are an outstanding speaker! I can not stand videos that you can't tell what the person is saying or they spend have their lost in "Hmm", " Ah" and "Ya know"!

[@lemsi0264]

little note: at 8:56 you put that piece on wrong it has to sit a little higher

[@alexnesmith5829]

The ender 3 looks like it would make an amazing work horse, just gotta know what to print

[@AustenHartley]

Yeah I’m sad to give it away haha

[@kurtlazarus5975]

yes you do need a bl touch because creality std beds are very bad.

[@avega2792]

I like the functional upgrades like the tool box and scraper holder. The LED and Rasperry pi mods are too much at this point as I've just started and dont really print very often, but I still think they're really cool. Definitely going to do some of these upgrades to my Ender 3 Pro, in fact I already ordered to Capricorn tubing and metal extruder. I got my Ender for $99 so the upgrades are a must.

[@sledzeppelin]

I don’t get the fanfare for glass print beds. It just adds a ton of weight to the y axis which introduces ghosting. My Ender came with a glass bed and I quickly ditched it for a magnetic bed and I’m never going back. So much easier to get prints off, and the quality improved. And it made an even bigger difference in print quality on my CR-10, since that bed is so huge.

[@AustenHartley]

The weight of the glass wouldn’t be what is causing the ghosting, maybe check the belt tension! The adhesion to glass is very good so for long prints it is reliable.

[@sledzeppelin]

@@AustenHartley I’ve had far more prints come off of my glass beds than I do my magnetic ones. The glass absolutely caused my ghosting/ringing, because as soon as I took it off, no other changes to settings, it went away. It’s so heavy that when the Y motor tries to move it back and forth really quickly it starts making the whole machine shake and flex a bit, causing the ghosting on the Y axis. I’ve seen lots of videos with CR-10 owners saying the same. Other than glass having a very smooth first layer, I find a magnetic removable bed to be better in every possible way. Give it a try!

[@ComgrowOfficial]

So informative. Keep it up, bro👍

[@maerickson3261]

Good to see another Order of the Engineer member.

[@lumendio3]

I'd avoid glass beds. I have had nothing by issues with prints and sticking. I've leveled it, Ive cleaned it and it just is a pain. I was able to get it to work with putting painters tape on it but its too cumbersome. Im just getting a flexible stainless steel magnetic mat which should be perfect.

[@jackzhao604]

1:28 your z axis surface have some serious issues all those wobbles

[@1santacara]

Hello thanks for your videos!! I have a ender 3 pro only to create clay cutters and after 6 pieces the printer is not working well it seems that the walls are not well filled and I don’t change anything , but I have no idea how to fix that again. Can you make a video to show good parameters to cut clay cutters but for really beginners I mean going into each step of the menu to explain what they are? I hate reading manuals and I need help!!! Thanks and gratings from Spain!!!

[@MrHristoB]

Very helpful. Even I'm not a fan of E3 and own Homers Tarantula (pro??) as well as have built myself two custom i3's with 300x200 and 240x240 beds. Have to agree with you on the BLTouch, unnecessary complication as manual 16point mesh levelling does just the same job without too mush hustle and makes the printers plug and play(print). The beds are hard mounted to the Y carriage so just a check from time to time and carry on printing. Sometimes people concentrate too much on accessories rather than functionality. Function before form, not the other way around.

[@Jamie-cz2xu]

You just said you must use adhesive to print on glass..... My prints stick like really good on plain glass with no adhesive required. I print PETG and PLA with no adhesive. My secret, bed temps between 75-85C, and 15mm/s initial layer speed and 0% fan on initial layers.

[@IrishDowngrades]

Thanks for giving me inspiration to upgrade my ender 3 pro , another ender 3 pro would be nice too more projects to print😉🥰

[@stevesteinfeld149]

Just watched your video and I don't see a link for the tube upgrade?