Austin Healey 100/6 restoration Pt 50

[@dgadver]

Looks great!! Nothing like watching these videos!! Thanks Matthew!!

[@aussiemg100]

+David Goodnight cheers David

[@heinrichthumling5471]

Good job....i did it almost the same, but there is no or less back support in this or the original configuration. i took it all apart and add much more foam just to the lower part of the rear piece.....the best thing u can do.......seats now perfect. no more back pain on longer trips and very comfortable.

[@mtrotti]

Hey there - saw the issue you had with bleeding your brakes and I wanted to pass along some wisdom I gained by nearly driving myself nuts getting mine sorted out. I tried gravity bleeding, pressure bleeding, assistant bleeding, and anything else I could think of. Nothing worked. I tried some obscure bleeding methods after some research and found one that finally worked. Its not for the faint of heart and I've nicknamed it the "emergency stop" method. Use the standard method with an assistant (pedal up, loosen bleed nipple, pedal down, tighten, repeat) except on the down stroke really jam the brakes HARD. This seems to force out air that remains at the top of the arc going over the axle in the rear. I isolated my pedal softness to the rears by using clamps and then used this method to clear the air that had been trapped. Best of luck and thanks for the videos.

[@aussiemg100]

Hi Micah thanks for the tip. I'm sorting tyres at the moment and hoping to go for a drive soon so I guess I need brakes! I have managed to get some pedal but I'll get my wife to help and try your method. Cheers Matthew

[@anthonysuozzo1228]

Hi Matthew,I'm doing the seat on my Austin Healey right now and your video was helpful!! I had lots of trouble with the front seat backs, especially the lower area where you have to clip it down. It's a bit crowded with everything coming together down there. I'm ready to start the second one and as you said, the second time is usually an improvement. I still have the back seats to do.

[@anthonysuozzo1228]

Matthew, I found that gluing a vinyl strip around the front seat frame base as originally done helps to prevent the cushion from getting damaged when it sits inside that frame. I thought I'd share that as I heard you comment on that in one of your videos. Again, very helpful videos ad nice work.... Anthony

[@aussiemg100]

Hi Anthony Thanks for you positive comments. I only just got them through for some reason. I'm glad the videos give you some help and inspiration. Cheers Matthew

[@22KBIO]

Thanks for your videos! Encouraging and good leading. Cheers.

[@ronicard]

Well done, Matthew! You have to be anxious to take her out and drive her since she is so close to being ready to drive.

[@aussiemg100]

+Ron Icard thanks Ron yes, she's not too far off. Matthew

[@anthonysuozzo1228]

I love your videos Matthew!!

[@ralphcap2476]

Good job on the seats but the brake issue is your main concern most likely air is getting back in has to be one of the cylinders

[@aussiemg100]

+ralph cap Hi Ralph I think you're right. I suspect the rear cylinders. Not leaking, but repaired not rebuilt. Cheers Matthew

[@wolves356]

Hi mathew I'm about to buy a 110/6, I'm from the uk and want to put the steering as you have onto the proper side of the car haha , is there any chance of making a list of parts i would need and a list of modifications i would need to do ,such as the peddle you modified ,no need to spend money of fancy new parts if you can keep the original modified great restoration videos you look like your very close now i have enjoyed them very much , cheers phil

[@aussiemg100]

Hi Phil and thanks for the nice comments. It's not a difficult job.The hardest part is shelling out for a new R/H drive box. I got mine from SC Parts. Normally I find them expensive but they were the best price on this occasion. Apart from that you need: a R/H drive idler housing. You can use the innards and swap the steering arms from left to right. i bought one from Ahead for Healeys. You will need a bracket for the brake reservoir. They are different on the L/H drive cars. Also, pipes from said reservoir to clutch and brake master cylinders; and from those to clutch slave and brake union. (Don't mount the reservoir too high or it fouls on the bonnet when you close it). The cover plates on the body can just be swapped to the other (correct) side. A R/H drive dash. Different speedo cable. R/H drive pipe from block to oil pressure gauge. The clutch and brake pedals can be reused. Just swap over the complete housing, but the accelerator pedal is longer. You can make this yourself. I think from memory, it's a piece of 3/8 bar. Not hard to do. I can take a pic if you need it. I think I altered the parking position of the wipers. Not hard to do. There is some info on the net about that. do it before you fit the wiper motor. Some of the heater and air control cables are a different length, but I can't remember which ones. I think that's all, as far as I remember. If I think of anything else I'll let you know. It's pretty straight forward as they were built as left and right hand drive: nothing structural to change. Good luck and if I can shed light on anything else let me know. Cheers Matthew

[@wolves356]

Thats brilliant thanks so much I'm trying to do it 1st week of july in the nice English sun i will let you know how i get on maybe ill do a video of the process because i couldn't find too much on the net about it then i remembered you did it on your 100/6 . thanks again Phil

[@paultinley1854]

Hello there, did you glue the fluted back covers to the swab, nice job. Paul

[@aussiemg100]

Hi Paul The whole seat set came from A H Spares in the UK. Quality was good. Cheers

[@paultinley1854]

matthew randell Hello Matthew. Great videos, I am in the process of restoring a 3000 bn7 mk1. I was interested to know whether you glued the fluted part of the cover to the cushion, as this would appear to be difficult to get at.