Auto Air Conditioner System Repair - 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

[@FrancisJoubert-n3b]

Hi, I have a 1979 cutlass brougham I had built for me in the Framingham plant in mass achusetts., where i worked as a repair man. All original black lacquer pt and red leather inside. To see your own car beiing built was awesome. People think it has been restored. It is 45 yrs old on May 23. Small olds v/8. Best car ever.

[@Mark-qw8lc]

This was a very helpful video. I have had my 1985 Olds 442 AC worked on at least three times over the years and after each expensive service the refrigerant has leaked out within a year. After spending and wasting so much money on professional AC service I decided to follow your procedure and do it myself. I did everything exactly as you showed in the video and used all the exact same chemical products. I also replaced the compressor unit along with the flexible manifold lines and all the o-ring seals at every fitting in the system. So far the AC is working like a charm using the R152a refrigerant from the duster spray cans. Plus, now I know I can work on the AC system on my own if any future repairs are needed. We are forecast to have some really warm days ahead so I am curious to see how it performs this summer. Thanks again!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi Mark. Thank you for the comment! I am delighted that you've used my info to get your A/C working again in a cost-effective manner. That is why I share these projects!

[@kmother19]

This video on top of the comments for it are golden. Thank you so much

[@GregHuston]

I have gone without AC in my cutlass for 5 years; I had been planning an expensive Sanden compressor swap with a R134a compatible condenser (parallel flow), and the condenser is HARD to find. I stumbled upon a mention of R152A and then found this GREAT video. I pretty much did everything in this video with 2 exceptions, I put in a NEW compressor and used an Ester oil charge (after thoroughly flushing the evap & condenser) the Ester oil is supposed to be more compatible with the R152A than Mineral and it won't be harmed by any residual mineral oil in the system (PAG is incompatible with Mineral oil so don't use that unless you replace EVERYTHING).

[@johnssonsmixed8303]

I'm really glad I found this one vid, it explains to me how my AC system works, Got the same 231 engine and a/c system. I'd be really glad to get it working. But I gotto sort out the oilpump in the engine first.

[@bigshortstack2929]

Excellent video, Mr. T. Thank you for your very detailed work and explanation.

[@MRTuning704]

I just bought a 79 delta 88 and I’m slowly working my way around the car lol Brake had to be first needed a caliper and both soft brake lines If your soft lines look old replace them thay fall apart and clog the lines causing baaad brake dragging to the point I could not move without releasing pressure in the system Good video!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thanks! Yeah I have had a few of those brake lines swell internally and clog up. Burned up a few brakes from that!

[@MRTuning704]

davida1hiwaaynet yeah I’m scared I burned up my torque converter ... jk

[@compu85]

Mercedes used those R4 compressors too... but they mounted them upside down compared to GM. There's an oiling oil at the top of the front bearing that ends up at the bottom if you put a GM compressor on the Mercedes, and starves the bearing of oil. I love how easy it is to work on GM cars like this.... all the parts are in the engine bay and easy to get at. Nothing is buried up in the dashboard.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Thanks for another informative AC video. You have one of 3 1980 Olds Cutlass' with functioning air conditioning :-) I had one nearly identical, except mine had the 260 Olds V8 which was rated about 5hp more than the 231 Buick V6.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

WhoSaidTyler LOL about the 3 functional A/C's... I consider the A/C very important. It's bad to get the interior all sweaty and dusty driving hot and sweaty and with windows open. I am glad you like the A/C videos. I hope to convey at least two points - One is that it is NOT difficult and not magic to fix an auto A/C. The other part is to show that it's a somewhat tedious process. Therefore the professionals who do this for a living are NOT ripoff artists. These jobs take a lot of time and time is costly when you are in the business.

[@slickmouf879]

sigh..... wish u lived near me. I'd pay you good money to do this to my 87 cutlass supreme

[@charlesmartin7347]

Boy this was just what I needed a old school ac job done right and with the duster refrigerant was a bounce. You sir have earned a big ol dammit boy !!!!! Blessings and more blessings to you and your family.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thank you so much Charles!

[@ardiemclelland2039]

My first car was an 84 Oldsmobile 98. Sat in a barn for 20 years. All I ever did to revive the ac in mine was recharge it with one of the cheap do it yourself kits at an auto store. Blew the coldest air I ever felt for almost 5 years before the engine locked up one day. Went for scrap after that.

[@cw2lido]

Wow, you brought that back to life quick!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

cw2lido Thanks! It wasn't really all that bad. Just a basic mineral oil to synthetic flush, and then basic evac and charge. Nothing modified.

[@84Parker84]

Try the relay on the AC box. I heard it controls the high speed. The resistor on the AC box controls the 3 other low speeds.

[@GregHuston]

I had the exact issue on my cutlass, but the High Speed Blower Relay wasn't the issue it's the 4 pin connector by the passenger side valve cover that connects the relay harness to the rest of the car. Pretty common on these cars.

[@GrandNash-bk2kq]

Hi I just flushed out my evaporator on my grand national but for some reason when I blow solvent and air through the smaller line solvent doesn’t blow out only air. But if I blow through the bigger line solvent comes out. Do you know why? Btw the orfice tube was broke off in the line. Do you think it could be stuck down in the evaporator? I noticed when I charged my ac the low side would go to 35 and high side 0

[@nathanas64]

Cool video! Brings back memories of my 1980 cutlass Supreme !!!

[@djeskandalo8394]

Great video I will be fixing my dad's truck with this, 1990 Chevy Silverado thank you

[@mec1616]

I'm a Refrigeration mechanic and have used both R-12 and R-152a in old R-12 systems and both refrigerants will work much better than R-134a because the old R-12 systems have smaller evaporators and condensers than 134a systems. A retrofitted R-12 system to R-134a can never cool as well as when charged with R-12 or R-152 without increasing coil sizes which in most cases would require a new and larger heater box - which is not practical at all.

[@kenny87green72]

Great informative video learned a lot about the ac system 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thanks, glad you found it useful!

[@kiwianthony3878]

I have a 79 with the 305 same color but its a brougham

[@713ridazgarage4]

What wire was not connect that stop the high speed from working??you mention it towards the end of this video?? I'm having some issue already replaced switch and and relay but high speed does not work...thanks for the help

[@xwarp]

I'm running 152 in my '85 S15. Have had the charge in for over a year with no issues and you can hardly tell when the compressor engages. Nice and cold. But, in a GM system that uses the R12 and climate control system, the system monitors the refrigerant temps before and after the evap. Problem with this is that 152 will drop in temp faster than R12. My 91 Riviera will occasionally throw a "Service A/C" code for the temp drop depending on outside temps. I've not yet dealt with this as it doesn't happen too often, so I am not sure if I should go the route of manipulating the low or hi side temp sensor resistances, or, the resistance of the ambient temp sensor. In any case, better stock up on the canned air now......

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

xwarp Hi just a quick note - I read that a similar error happens on certain Cadillac cars with ECM controlled air conditioner. This was remedied with a sleeve that fit around the orifice tube. Back when they first started to bad R12 there were several blended substitute refrigerants that had this same problem. I can't locate the article now, though. Do some searches - it was related to a product called GHG Autofrost if I remember.

[@ArlowFarrell]

Is there any chance you could take a picture of the connector that goes into that compressor there? What two colors are the wires going to the compressor? I see soooo many green wires. I've rebuilt my entire ac system buying amazon parts, hitting the junk yard, and watching this video.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi Arlow. It's hard to believe but the video was from 2015 and I have since sold this car. After 7 years I just can't remember the connector. Thanks for the comment, none the less.

[@87SSBOI]

Arlow I've been messing with my A/C recently...maybe this vid will help kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWeYd5mBqNl0aq8

[@pilgrimhere652]

So , the old cars had easy accessible air conditioning evaporator , The new ones need the whole dash removal. What a bad deal from engineers this days.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Yeah, that is for sure. Not only do the newer ones have inaccessible evaporator cores, the materials are not as durable so the core is more likely to break!

[@digitalaero]

You didn't say anything about using a can of spray duster for the refrigerant! What a great cheap alternative!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

It works great! I have done many videos about it with lots of details. Just so accustomed to using it now that I don't think about it!

[@joshg678]

So simple, and yet complex. You were using a can of Computer Dust off to charge the system??? Thats crazy!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

joshg678 It's not that complex. Just a little tedious because I wanted to preserve the parts and not have to replace everything I touch. So I took extra time. Yes I used Office Depot duster spray. These cans contain the refrigerant gas HFC152A which is a compatible refrigerant gas for R12 or R134A systems. It requires PAG oil the same as R134A.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

joshg678 Check this one out. It is a 2-part series. The car in the linked video below was badly contaminated and it was the result of a hack-butcher conversion job. I go into details of the duster spray refrigerant, including how to calculate the correct charge amount. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIekZn-GiJhng6M

[@joshg678]

davida1hiwaaynet I remember seeing that one, i just didn't happen to notice it was an Office Depo Can!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

joshg678 I see. I'm pretty sure it was the same type of can....

[@6rubios]

How many lbs. did you put into this system and does it vary from a V6 to V8 or 134a to 152a? Thank you…

[@vegasjoshuaa]

I live in Las Vegas nv where is tour shop at ? I need this done

[@mikehill6528]

why152A duster spray instead of r12 freon? Is 152a a refregerant? please explain. thx

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Mike, there are several reasons. I need to start by explaining why I don't use R12. That would be the technically simplest and best repair. I don't use R12 because it is very expensive. The price is artificially increased because of political reasons. I choose not to feed the crooks who are profiteering in this manner. So, that leaves a few options on the table. There are blended mixtures which are sold as "something 12" or some such trade name. I used them extensively when the R12 ban became a thing. They work fine so long as your system is 100% leak-free. The problem with a blend is, it can separate. When there is any minor leakage, the blend separates. The resulting mixture is missing some of the compounds which are necessary for the life of the compressor. Therefore, the blend leaks, and the compressor is ruined before the system stops cooling. Blends are dangerous to the machinery due to the constitution changing with leaks, and resulting lubrication loss. The next options are hydrocarbons. They are also blends, so that really takes them off the table for me. Aside from that, they have an extreme flammability concern. Therefore, hydrocarbons (which are a propane / butane blend) are hazardous to the people around the system, as well as dangerous to the machinery in the same way as the "something 12" blends they sell. That's a double no-go. This leaves two pure chemicals which are usable. Those are R134A and R152A. Both of them are pure chemical products that don't lose part of the mixture if they leak. Therefore they are safe for the machinery. R134A has three drawbacks. One, it is affected by the same political concerns as R12 was, with the guarantee of profiteering and exorbitant costs in the future. The second drawback is the oil miscibility. It will not mix with the oil used in an R12 system. You have to fully flush the system and replace the oil with the correct type for R134A. And finally, the third drawback is the operating pressure and the coefficient of performance. When you use R134A in a system as compared to R12 in the same system - the system takes a lot more horsepower to do the same cooling. It loses its cooling capacity at low engine speeds, when the extra horsepower is not available. When at speed, it cools fine but uses more fuel to do the same work that R12 did. Then you have R152A. It has two drawbacks. The first of them is the same oil compatibility as R134A. You can't just use it in an R12 automotive system. These systems need a refrigerant which will mix with the oil, so you have to do the same oil flush and install the same oils used for R134A. The second drawback of R152A is a minor flammability concern. I have not been able to get it to ignite and stay burning, but it is classed as flammable under certain circumstances. Most other systems also contain flammable oils as well, so this is really not a concern to me. The positive side to R152A is that it is an excellent, powerful refrigerant. The system uses less horsepower than it would had it been filled with R134A. It will stay colder at idle speed, and use less fuel. It will not stress the compressor as much. It's just a far better match to systems which were originally designed for R12. Other than the oil compatibility - this is a drop-in replacement. I have had great success with it over several years in multiple vehicles and stationary refrigeration systems. It just plain works, and works well. That's all there is to it LOL! :)

[@mastergreen8492]

I’m doing this tomorrow

[@hammergang1249]

How did you get your engine back looking nice and clean...i have one and i want to clean it without messing anything up

[@ShainAndrews]

All of my engine bays and undercarriage look that way. I use Purple Power in a 2 gallon garden sprayer and a pressure washer with a 15 degree nozzle. Just use your head under the hood. Only get as close to the surface with the washer as needed to remove the debris.

[@ls87gbody]

Hey David. Is the compressor still working on this vehicle? Im going to be doing the same thing to my 87 cutlass as you did in your video. Im also hoping to use the conpressor thats in the car. My orfice filter was very clean for being an original. It has a few metal peices on it but no gunk at all. It was covered in a dark grayish color but it was just a coating and not thick at all. How worried about the metal pieces should i be? Also anymore tests i can do to determine if the compressor is still useable before i proceed with flushing with brake cleaner and recharging? Thanks a million. Love the car videos! Especially the cutlass and the turbo car ;)

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi sorry about the delayed reply! Yes, the A/C is still working like a champ three years later. It hasn't lost its charge. I would not be concerned about the orifice tube screen. A few tiny chips are often found there. I have a feeling they may be left over from manufacturing. The only test you can really do is to pull vacuum on the system and see that it holds for a few hours or overnight. If it does,. charge it up and test it! As for the brake cleaner; I never use chlorinated. That stuff is Cancer In A Can; as well as damaging to a lot of common materials. I always use the flammable, non-chlorinated style. Thanks for the comments, by the way!

[@jonsworld5307]

@@davida1hiwaaynet i took my out today looked like someone put glitter in there it was so full and i cant turn comprsser clutch by hand so id say its looked up not going to risk it

[@benodell9675]

Nice job a big help thank You

[@mikelucio5]

new to the Cutlass scene.... quick question. where is the fuel filter located on a 1982 Cutlass Supreme brougham

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi; I am not extremely familiar with these cars - but with most GM cars of this era, there is a small fuel filter inside the carburetor. It is in the inlet fitting.

[@arielmedrano8098]

Getting my air conditioner installed my Cutlass and mechanic says it only blows through the floor and the defroster what piece am I missing for the vents?

[@PrecisionComputing]

there is a vacuum line that runs from inside the car, along the inside of the passenger fender, and to a ball under the hood. Make sure that isn't broken, and that the other end of the ball runs to manifold vacuum.

[@MrOlegalis69]

Great video bud..I've got a 81 Cadillac Eldorado..I put a 35o crate oldsmobile motor in..the AC unit looks identical to yours. Question, to you..can you run the heater without the system being charged? Would it destroy the compressor? Thank you..

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi Dolce. Glad you were able to get your Caddi running again. Cadillac with their high-tech automatic climate controls is hard to know what would happen. If I were you, I would unplug the compressor connector so as to prevent it from accidentally turning on with the system not charged.

[@rayfordhickman3087]

I had the same fan switch issue on high in my 80 malibu coupe. The switch connection on the dryer is loose or needs replacing. I just wiggle mines where it connects to the dryer and the high fan position began working.

[@gbody2943]

hi I have a question my heat only works on the fan speed it doesn't work on high or low I change the blower motor resistor now I can hear the blower motor spinning I even took the blower motor out and made sure it was spinning but my heat or air only comes on when it's on the fan setting and it's really low like you almost don't feel it should I swap out the switch control inside the car next 86 cutlass

[@NoSleep_318Gaming]

How do you wire up high pressure switch, don’t have one at the moment but I think I need it??

[@michaelleal3650]

So you used brake cleaner the whole time to flush it correct ? I’m doing the exact same process as you but I’m stuck with the brake cleaner rite now just want to be sure before I proceed.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Yep! I used Advance Auto Parts "Wearever" brake cleaner, non-chlorinated. Different brands sell different solvents as "brake cleaner" so I always very specifically stay with this one brand. I've tested it extensively and found it to be compatible with materials in these systems without damaging the rubber parts, if some of the solvent stays in.

[@frlouiegoad4087]

I have a 1988 Oldsmobile hearse. Why have the dipsticks locked after a mechanic replaced head gaskets?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi Louie. The dipstick should not be stuck in the engine. If this happened during a headgasket replacement, the mechanic who worked on it should be asked to investigate this problem. The dipstick is near the head. If the head is "roughly handled" it can strike the dipstick tube and bend it. The dipstick won't slide out of a bend tube.

[@bohemialite6371]

Wow you are really good at what you do.😝😝😀😀

[@phuckugoofleplus7542]

You said around 12:00 that oil circulates. I am assuming that the oil goes thru the compressor too. I am now guessing that there is some clearance inside the compressor between the head and piston.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

+phucku goofleplus Yes! That is correct. The compressor has some clearance between all the moving parts. The oil is in a "fine mist" form that just coats the moving parts. When it travels through the compressor, it's not a "solid slug" of liquid. The compressor is always moving mostly gas. The velocity of this gas carries the oil through in mist form without it ever filling up the cylinders and causing damage.

[@matiasfernandes]

Nice video, very helpfull!!! Question; shouldnt you have drained the remanent oil in the compressor?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thanks for the comment! These R4 compressors only hold a very small amount of oil. The oil in the system looked clean. A little bit extra oil won't hurt anything. It just wasn't worth the time to remove the compressor only to get a few drips of oil out. :)

[@matiasfernandes]

Nice to know that man!!!!

[@stanthology]

Hi Dave. Is that brake cleaner the alcohol based type? Does it make a difference what type I use for cleaning out the oil? Thanks. You have the best AC vids.

[@ls87gbody]

When flushing with brake cleaner, is it best to use non chlorinated or chloronated?

[@mikehill6528]

can U mix the two,,, r12 and 152a?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Legally, no. In reality, of course. When you blend them, the temperature / pressure curve of the mixture will be an average of the two blended gases.

[@KenTeague72]

Very cool of you to charge it with R152a. Question: How is its compatibility with the mineral oil used in the older R12 system? I have an old 1991 Cadillac DeVille with a low charge on the AC system and I need to make a decision on whether I want to pay big bucks to recharge it with R12 or convert and recharge with R134a (or, now, considering R152a). The accumulator will run me about $20, same with the orifice tube. I have a leaking schrader valve that needs to be replaced, or its o-ring replaced. I plan on replacing all o-rings all around as well as rubber hoses. I hope to keep all aluminum hoses because replacing them will make this project quite expensive. Thanks for sharing. There are not many videos that cover older AC systems here on KZbin.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi Ken. I have not charged R152A into a system with pure mineral oil in it. Others have done this and it has worked fine for them; however I haven't seen many follow-up videos on the system durability after doing this. Mine have all been working 1 to 3 years with R152A and PAG oil. I just have a process that is working for me and don't see a reason to make a change. :) I would like to be sure the refrigerant and oil will mix and circulate together as the original R12 and mineral oil did. You're right, there is no need to change the aluminum tubing! Those tubes are a lifetime part unless they get physically damaged.

[@lincolnhunt9558]

What's the name of that piercing tool for those 152a cans and where can i get that tool?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Sorry for the delayed reply. It's called a can side-piercing tap, for R12 cans.

[@meanpaintandbody]

I have a 1980 regal and some idiot cut the ac plugs now I have 3 wires the fat red one and the 2 shades of green I c the dark goes to the compressor do u know the other 2?

[@87SSBOI]

I've been messing with the A/C on my 87...This vid may help kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWeYd5mBqNl0aq8

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. I have sold this car years ago and can't really help others with their problems by looking at it.

[@meanpaintandbody]

@@87SSBOI thanks

[@84Parker84]

Your right the dark green goes to compressor clutch. the two light green wires go to both the pressure cycling switch and the fast idle solenoid

[@midos67channel24]

@@davida1hiwaaynet You might have sold your oldsmobile years ago. But your video has been very educational for me as I am doing an engine swap on a 1985 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station wagon. And your information on how to convert an old R12 AC system to an updated R-134-A system has been very informative for me. Thankyou

[@mravila2537]

So what do u think the issue is when u put it on high it just shuts off? Myn does the same thing. Do we need to replace the whole switch unit?

[@87SSBOI]

If it doesn't work on high speed it's either the High Speed Relay or the main A/C harness with 4 wires (1 Lt green, 1 dark green, 1 thick red and 1 thick black)...check out this vid...it may help kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWeYd5mBqNl0aq8

[@jalenmorgan8390]

I see where the low pressure line goes, but where did you hook up the high pressure line. I have a 1980 c10 with a drier exactly like that and am trying to figure out where the high pressure hose attaches to.

[@ls87gbody]

Jalen Morgan it will be between the compressor and condenser. Its always on the opposite side of the components.

[@ls87gbody]

Jalen Morgan my 87 cutlass uses the same components as your truck and the high pressure port is on the metal line running into the condensor (the big thing in front of the radiator)

[@farmboy30117]

I guess you use the duster spray because its cheaper than 134a. If I had the can tap and adapter I'd do the same thing. Glad you get her cooled down. Now you can ride in comfort! ;)

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

farmboy30117 I use the HFC152A duster spray because it is more effective than R134A when used as an R12 replacement. It is more in line with R12 pressure / temperature curve. You end up with colder air quicker basically.Here is a link to a can tap that will work with R134A cans, small (oil charge) cans, and R12 / Duster cans. It also has the dual outlet fittings, so you can use either style of gauge manifold with it: www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-C-Refrigerant-Can-Tap-R12-R134A/_/R-NTE781009_0063111497

[@farmboy30117]

Thanks!

[@tadehavanessians808]

Hey, I got an 86 cutlass supreme, and it’s got a similar system, both of ours r12, but I’m wondering if using the r134a Refrigerant oil (PAG 150) is not gonna cause any issues, same with the cleaning duster can as refrigerant. I’m currently in the process of replacing most the ac components.

[@tadehavanessians808]

I also get a hissing when my ac is off and the slide is on cold, I'm wondering if you had a similar issue and wondering if mine is vacuum related as well.

[@notreal5299]

​@@tadehavanessians808 that may be the sound of your pressures equalizing around your orifice tube after you stop your engine. i get a similar sound sometimes after shutdown on my mid eighties pontiac with the orifice tube setup.

[@mrmoparrr]

Do you still own this car ? Im trying my darnedest to locate the proper vacuum line connections to the 4 line grommet

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

I had not driven it much at all in several years because I have gotten too many projects going on. The car still ran well but was going to need a lot of mechanical restoration work soon. I sold it to a local guy, with full disclosure of the condition; while it was still roadworthy. He wanted it because it reminded him of his mom's car from years past and he wanted to have it for sentimental reasons.

[@herberthunter]

Hey I got a 87 cutlass an I'm having a problem with my ac blowing out the floor vents it blows out the defrost but not the floor vents any advice

[@drejackson1000]

herb hunter it a vacuum line need to be hooked up mine blow threw the "face vents now

[@Tom-wq2mz]

Have you worked on any 1975 pontiacs with the VIR system by the firewall. ?

[@soulfultenor]

some of those POA or throttle valve system are sensitive to R-12 pressures, and won't really work for R-134A, there is a kit available for replacing those on Ebay, key in POA system and it will come up send me a PM and I will send the link for it.

[@woc4029]

Very helpful thank u

[@staceylittle2825]

I have a 1977 Buick Electra, can you tell me the name of the line that you disconnected from where the orifice tube was located? Thanks

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Hi Stacey. That line is between the condenser and evaporator. It's normally called the "liquid line" in general refrigeration terminology. The car world may have a different term, but liquid line should get the point across.

[@jonathanedens732]

Would compressor oil work for the orings and seals?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

+Jonathan Edens Hi Jonathan. The short answer is Yes, but it is not the most ideal thing. Because this system was converted to an HFC-based refrigerant (similar to R134A) it required a different, synthetic type of oil. This oil is plenty slippery to lube the O-rings, however it has a bad habit of absorbing moisture from the air and then becoming corrosive. The silicone paste is completely inert without chance of holding moisture, or contaminating the system. Hope this answered the question!

[@MRTuning704]

Office depo cleaning duster ?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Yes. The cleaning duster cans contain 1,1,difluoroethane. It is also known as R152A and is an amazing refrigerant to replace R12 and R134A and even some other older refrigerants.

[@MRTuning704]

davida1hiwaaynet Where do I buy it? Also are you a chemical engineer ? Because that’s genius ! I love stuff like this ! Sorry for questions but when I had posted the comment I do remember I could not find anything on the subject.

[@slickmouf879]

the place I went to was talking outrageous money to do this, I can do half off it myself.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

+Jeannie Fant That's how they are. Shops charge by the hour, no matter how "menial" the work is. It takes time so they charge a lot. Some places are just plain ripoff artists and they will charge a high price in spite of not doing the work! The only really expensive tool is the vacuum pump. Some of the places around here have quoted prices so high that you would be cheaper buying every tool needed, plus the parts, and you would have still been money ahead doing it yourself.

[@nitrochargedv8]

ester oil? or mineral?

[@carloscarnero2786]

Is the 1980 cutlass ac systemthe same as a 86

[@GregHuston]

I have an '85 Cutlass with a 307 and it's identical to this.

[@joseramos-bc2qd]

Dude!! U r bad @$$!!!

[@713ridazgarage4]

Thanks again