Auto darkening welding helmet repairs batteries and sensor issues

This is my repair of the viking based auto darkening lens system. This involved replacing the betteries internally with a replaceable aaa battery set. I also had additional issues which I talk about

[@chriswillis2611]

Thank you. Your video saved me much hassle, and allowed me to fix my Vulcan helmet easily. Cleaning the four small square sensors on my newer Vulcan helmet worked immediately. The symptoms had been: 1. that it would not auto-darken. 2. the batteries were good. 3. it darkened fine when I pressed the "test" button, but not otherwise. I used a twisted lens wipe, but a q-tip with any appropriate cleaner would have worked also. Thanks again.

[@murrayco20]

Congratulations. "Where there's a will, there's a way". Keep up the good work.

[@kirk7547]

Cheers for taking time to do this video, Now to find my pocket knife and have a go.

[@metalguru58]

Brilliant - I've done exactly what you said and it worked. Thank you!!

[@mitchandrews1902]

Excellent info. Did exactly what you said and fixed my helmet. Thank you!

[@KnightDriveTV]

Awesome. Crazy how one small, quick vid goes such a long way...lol.

[@DocDryden]

Thanks... It worked. Saved me some money!!!!!!!!!!!! Bought the battery holders from e-bay for .99

[@KnightDriveTV]

+DocDryden Glad to hear it! Mine is still working fine as well...no issues since this combo of repairs!

[@DocDryden]

+RC000E I’m not a professional welder so I only use my welder a few time a year. Now it’s easy for me to remove the batteries when I’m not going to weld for a while.

[@keithnoneya]

Nice little video on some good advice to fix your screen. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

[@danielvanniekerk61]

Nice, thanks! Just ensure that those replacement cells won't explode or leak when charged with the solar panel.

[@KnightDriveTV]

That tiny panel isn't putting out enough to ever really affect those batteries. I've had the batteries from this video, in my hood to this day...no issue thus far.

[@tabletcasacasa5523]

original batteries are no rechargable , so the circuit wont try to "recharge "

[@marcoahernandezgarcia4819]

The solar panel is not intended to recharge the batteries, it's actually part of the sensing circuit. If you disconnect the solar panel from the circuit, the lens will not darken when exposed to strong light. The panel is more sensitive to UV light, while the tiny round sensors beneath are more sensitive to infrared. However their signals are both compared by an operational amplifier, so if one of them is abscent, the lens will not darken. That's because when you're welding, the electric arc actually emits more light in the UV spectrum, but also emits in visible and IR. When you stop welding, the metal keeps glowing red hot, that means IR, but scarcely UV (it depends on the temperature, in fact). So the circuit interprets "IR only" as the arc was extinguished, and then undarkens.

[@ARCSTREAMS]

@@marcoahernandezgarcia4819 so are the batteries always working or only when light uv or ir etc is activating the helmet?

[@vanlendl1]

My two lenses were also dirty. I used brake cleaner. Thanks.

[@MattsShop]

Good tip to clean the sensors probably with a qtip and rubbing alcohol.

[@christopherthumm7861]

Don't throw the helmet away man! It has to be the reostat dimmer adjustment switch from what you just said in the beginning of the video you can yank a rheostat out of almost anything with an adjustment or connect the leads to make it stay on 100% all the time

[@cajememillan5800]

Thank you. I rarely use my hood but it's starting to fail. I will first clean the lenses then ill swap the batteries.

[@engineman02]

Bro this is a life saver!

[@MYCHANNEL-on1cp]

thanks, i had already converted mine to two aaa battery packs, was getting intermittent yellow flashing, after about a year. when i would tilt my head slightly i would get yellow flashes, making it as if it was my sensor because when i would tilt my head it would then darken, turned out one of my battery pack wire splices was hangin on by a thread, so apparantly when it needed power to darken it couldn't hold it and would turn off, thus yellow flash.

[@KnightDriveTV]

Never intended this video to be seen by so many but hey...it keeps workin in some way...lol

[@ericross5048]

Thank you man, love KZbin

[@nowar9220]

Thanks unc, much appreciated!!

[@rickthompson1422]

...it stinks that they basically make these units disposable...meaning that the batteries are not easily changed...

[@KnightDriveTV]

Yeah, its aggravating but...now yrs later after making this video I think the entire lens itself needs replaced...therefore...I think its finally time to move on...

[@bigsmiler5101]

It is maddening & borderline criminal that these manufacturers don't design the things to EASILY replace the batteries. I have FIVE dead welding helmets, and IF I get the free time to repair one, I'm going to put the battery OUTSIDE the panel and hold it with duct tape!

[@asifannur]

Hi sir what if fixing the welding lens, if it doesn't work normally, from light to dark (not autodarkening) I first thought of batteries or modules, but I tried to swap or replace modules, the results didn't work, but on the old lens (cracked glass) still works I suspect there is a defect in the lens glass (the lens I just bought)

[@jeffg8334]

I don't suppose you have a high res picture of the circuit board? I cut a little too deeply and knocked off a surface mount component in the top right hand corner (same orientation as your lens) and now it's not working...even after wiring in the batteries. There are markings on a lot of the components and I was hoping I could figure out what I need to replace (is it an R or a C?). Thanks

[@venketprakashvenketprakash2713]

Over darkness how to reduce darkness

[@danielsecrist7638]

I think I'll try cleaning the sensors first, thanks.

[@markvanakker7792]

NOTE: I went in too far and cracked the screen. When cutting the edge you're only cutting up to a shoulder, then you can crack it apart with a flat blade. Don't do what I did.

[@KnightDriveTV]

Sorry to hear that...lol. I actually have had my helmet put aside for almost 2yrs and I'll be pulling it back out as I got sponsored by Primeweld for upcoming channel fabrication. Still works!

[@darelldd]

I'm thinking of doing this as well - but wonder... where do you now store those battery packs inside the helmet?

[@KnightDriveTV]

+Darell Dickey I double sided taped them just above the lens. To date they haven't moved, hit my head or gotten in the way at all. I used a 3m double sided trim tape and a clean surface. Since this video I have not changed the batteries, had an issue or changed anything and all is well.

[@darelldd]

+RC000E Super. Thanks for the reply. Of course in the meantime, I just got my button cells working again. Mine are easily replaced (in little slide-out drawers), so I don't need to pry the electronics case apart. But that's where the good news stops. It is a big ol' PITA to pull the whole insert out of the helmet after every use, and pull out the batteries. But I find that if I don't, they are dead the next time I want to use the thing. What would solve my issue completely is inserting a toggle switch to completely remove power from the batteries when I'm not using it. There is a small draw while the system awaits the button press, and that's what I need to remove. Anyway... I'm off topic. It's great to know we have options, and I thank you for your video!

[@Centar1964]

I bought one from ebay (china) for less than $30 delivered and it has basically the same guts as this one. I just had to take it apart to see what was inside and mine wasn't glued as if they expected it to be opened for battery replacement (although also soldered to the board) These things aren't worth much more than 30 bucks and can't see why everyone is paying 1,2, and 3 hundred bucks for these things...

[@KnightDriveTV]

Yeah, I agree. My particular Lincoln helmet came with a MIG I bought, as part of a promotion. The only difference I have seen with cheaper helmets is the number of light sensors and the sensitivity. I TIG a bunch of complex headers and sometimes can only barely see the weld joint with my eyes, so a helmet without a lot light sensors and sensitivity flashes me frequently.

[@eksine]

they made those batteries non replaceable so you they can leach another $300 from you every 3 years, fuck them

[@daddycavefish]

how does the grind switch come apart for replacement

[@tabletcasacasa5523]

you dont need two packs of batteries, because are solder in parallel

[@rokadamlje5365]

Im doing the same thing, altho I wonder if I can just put 4 AA batteries in series to make 6V and wire it that way.

[@MrSticks9999]

"Basically" good video

[@KnightDriveTV]

Very old video...lol

[@MrSticks9999]

@@KnightDriveTV Basically, a very old video LOL

[@seapeddler]

Where is the 3 yr. warranty ?

[@aryapzh6691]

Same as mine. The auto darkening doesn't work correctly and remains the same after changing the battery 😥

[@KnightDriveTV]

After keeping mine alive for years, I finally conceded and upgraded to a very high quality hood/lens to keep for the long haul

[@Mikey-ym6ok]

It’s not a lcd screen 🤨 or am I wrong

[@KnightDriveTV]

It is indeed an LCD...all auto darkening lenses use LCD to block light. When the welding lens is switched off, the liquid crystals between the polarising filters bend the polarised light 90 degrees, meaning the lens will appear dark.

[@honey8784]

Turn your radio off.

[@KnightDriveTV]

This vid is...a lot of years old...I had no intention of even making a vid at the time, but figured people could use the info. Low and behold, over the years, it's got quite a number of views. It's not reflective of the rest of my channel though...all other vids are very high quality productions, and all automotive related.

[@joecordero7694]

Can some body give me any answers to help me straight the side of my welding helmet. Its bent inwards out shape please help me to get my money partner in the game again please. Thanks everyone

[@468vega]

Well I had luck in similar situation by wedging it out with a short piece of 2x4 and let it sit out in the sun then brought in to cool down for a day... woolah, back to normal