Avoiding Common PC Building Traps - Episode 6

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More things to look out for when building your PC - minus the Ewoks.
Power Supply Calculators
Seasonic - lmg.gg/seasoni...
OuterVision - lmg.gg/outervi...
MSI - lmg.gg/msicalc...
be quiet! - lmg.gg/bequeit...
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Follow: / linustech
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[@techquickie]

Power Supply Calculators : Seasonic - lmg.gg/seasoniccalculator OuterVision - lmg.gg/outervision MSI - lmg.gg/msicalculator be quiet! - lmg.gg/bequeitcalculator

[@BitterCynical]

Good job, all amateur PC builders should know about PSU calculators. Too bad Gamers Nexus hasn't yet started publishing PSU reviews with all the in depth details. There's a lot more to a power supply than what's written on the big stickers on power supplies.

[@phil-lp7038]

Oh... Well after all thats still a good start

[@apexhunteryt4879]

its a trap !!!

[@lienuslatetips4894]

Hello! LTT PSU Tier List writer here. All of these listed above are VERY inaccurate, except for the be quiet one. Be sure to use that one! Also, check out the PSU Tier List on the LinusTechTips forum! It'll help you with your PC building.

[@phil-lp7038]

I hate to do this... But im putting a program in this comment section...

[@xDB8x]

When you buy a 144 hz screen and play with 60 hz because you didn't change the settings. Yup there's people that did it

[@hwstar9416]

Tru that

[@denisd5027]

GGX ON TWITCH

[@xDB8x]

@Tarik El-Badry That's what I was talking about, thanks

[@Mavis847]

Greek smh

[@HendHeL]

@Tarik El-Badry Oh, you already posted that

[@mojolotz]

The monitor thing you mentioned... also applies to RAM. Make sure you have set your ram to whatever it is certified for, or it will just run at whatever standard it follows (usually 2.3k)

[@mojolotz]

@Adolf Hitler in BIOS. google it. I did it once and never touched it since so i kinda forgot.

[@mojolotz]

@Adolf Hitler glad to be of help.

[@cicciobombo7496]

"watercooling is better" *Laughs in Noctua*

[@CarDusanGospodarSveta]

This comment will have thousands of likes so i will take my place here...

[@Nathan-te7qr]

Me too

[@Kathdath]

I literally went from watercooling back to Noctua air cooling, and saw about the same temps for less noise and headache.

[@57F.K]

@@CarDusanGospodarSveta heey nice to meet ya

[@CarDusanGospodarSveta]

@@57F.K :D

[@PatGencarelli]

This actually helped me! My monitor was at default 60htz even though it's advertised as 144, thank you!

[@PatGencarelli]

@Tarik El-Badry I'm sorry, what?

[@itsmo7sin]

Pepega Clap

[@joshb6470]

I love how my monitors are always found as generic PnP monitors, even finding the drivers online sometimes. and these are name brand monitors too a Samsung and Acer

[@cbygelightbulb]

James: You don't need more than 500W My Vega 64: I have crushed your 700W PSU puny mortal

[@aaron8280]

Same but a 56 and only a 550

[@cbygelightbulb]

@H H thanks

[@futuristicdew11]

RTX 30 series: Amatures...

[@thefreemonk6938]

RTX 4090 is here and now even 1000 watt seems low...

[@suborgtfo.4433]

AAH! THE GOOD OL JAMES IS BACK WITH SOME NEW TECH NEWS..

[@roflTiMeX]

Also important: Make sure the heatsink of your CPU cooler you choose doesn't cover up the RAM slots if you want to use more than 2 RAM Sticks. I've had this problem before and only realized it when I actually build the PC.

[@WalnutSpice]

Tip #1, finish it asap. Don't be like me, "Oh I'll touch that up later". That was three years ago and things been my main rig since. Never had the side panel screwed back on, cable management or even adjusted fan speeds in the bios. Its had the same too short SATA cables since 2015. Don't be like me, don't procrastinate. And yes, One screw is enough for an optical or hard drive. Does it work? Yes, it does. Do I recommend it? Well do you like DSKCHK?

[@da14a49]

Hey do you think I would be able to build a PC with no experience at 15?

[@ShinyRayquazza]

A Somali guy Sure. Everyone has to start somewhere.

[@WalnutSpice]

@@da14a49 Hell yeah, just look up some reference material online and have fun. Don't put too much overthought into it, start simple and move up. There's no question for you to ask that someone hasn't already answered with a Google search.

[@CarlTheSpud]

Walk into a microcenter with cash. Walk out with your desired build. Often they will give you a free upgrade or "check the back" for a "better GPU" just let them know you are building a rig and what you want, specifically. Be an educated consumer.

[@CreeperPookie]

it's*, chkdsk*

[@fetalmistake5624]

Also dont buy a 500w Power supply If your calculation goes Like to 480w. Powersupplies Work Most efficient when between 40% to 60% load.

[@_yuri]

so you need a 1000w supply then dumas that was the whole point of the video 600w is enough

[@dubious6718]

@@_yuri 600w with a good rating, not some cheap ass PSU

[@onenaghi]

The efficiency is constant and doesn't depend on the power consumption but the quality of the transistors and other components of the PSU.

[@nomadben]

@@onenaghi That is completely false. Go read the wiki for the 80PLUS certification, and look at some spec sheets for power supplies.

[@onenaghi]

@@nomadben You're right, sorry. Load is a factor in efficiency.

[@justinyan4480]

Lmao I have a friend who bought a new fancy 160 hrz monitor without realizing he had 60 hrz on default he didn't change it until 4 months after

[@alexisv625]

What a plot twist... damn

[@bruceg22000]

Wow, I didn't realize there were deadly traps inside my pc. I'm glad I didn't lose a finger, or get poisoned/electrocuted during my last build.

[@Lyle-xc9pg]

Holy hell! i just watched all of these and another one came out

[@MsUltrafox]

I never hear about the M.2 speed trap. Not all motherboard support PCI X4 for your M.2 resulting in a very slow M.2 running it at SATA speed.

[@nevmiku]

Or the fact that one might not need NVMe speeds at all! If you're just gaming, SATA SSDs will be nearly as fast as an NVMe (off by a few seconds) when loading games. Only when you need to move large files constantly that the NVMe drives make sense. If you just want an M.2 drive to get clean cables, get one that has SATA protocols, and not NVMe!

[@thinklap6367]

That's why need to read the information about the motherboard you want to buy.My mobo asrock b450m pro4 had 2 m.2,one of it use x4 pcie and another using sata 3.0 and it using sata line no 3 (sata slot has 4 slots).

[@HarryWizard]

@@nevmiku most of the time yes, many exceptions though. NVMe takes minutes off of GTA 5 loading times, and im sure there are more examples, NVMe isn't that amazing, but with the ever enlarging sizing of games, it will be valuable eventually.

[@FizzleFX]

Step one... Don't hire the VERGE

[@420sakura1]

But they did a decent job imho HOW NOT TO BUILD A GAMING PC

[@zoyuu]

Why are people still meming this dead meme is the pcmr really that normie

[@dominikkuzila]

*Where are my tweezers?*

[@daviddavidsonn3578]

SHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEIT best comment

[@todor3139]

No we have to wait 32 years for episode 7.

[@snowhawk4049]

Watching this with the 400W 3090 around the corner. 1000W power supplies are back on the menu my boys.

[@BarrettKillz]

Even the 3080 is rated at 320W. Funny how this was uploaded one year ago and now it’s pretty much dated.

[@Mageoftheyear]

On power supplies: they only really reach peak efficiency at 50% capacity. So there is a reason to over buy in this instance. Even if it is a tiny one.

[@lienuslatetips4894]

At most it's 1-2%. Not really worth it for most people, considering you have to spend more up front. With a single rail power supply, it also makes the supply less safe, too.

[@aaron8280]

And try to use a Vega 64 an a 500 watt psu with no undervolting

[@lienuslatetips4894]

@@aaron8280 I've actually run a 8700K and a Vega 64 on a 550 with no undervolting, so yes, that will work. It'll even work on a 450 with slight undervolting and the i7 overclocked.

[@CaveyMoth]

Screw low wattage PSUs. Go for a high-wattage PSU with "eco" or "hybrid" mode, so that the PSU's fan doesn't even have to spin up and add to your PC's noise. Also, power supplies are usually most efficient when driven to around 50% power load. This means less overall power draw, less heat output, AND greater longevity. It's a trap NOT to get a high wattage power supply.

[@lienuslatetips4894]

A lot of the time higher wattage semi fanless PSUs are louder than lower wattage quiet PSUs lol. Plus, efficiency different is at most usually 2%, which outweighs the upfront cost of the extra wattage. Also, with a single rail PSU, the extra wattage makes the unit less safe. Considering you can run a overclocked i7 8700K and Vega 64 on a quality 450W unit, there's not much reason to get a high wattage PSU.

[@SirBilliam96]

I think one thing that never gets mentioned about PSUs is their efficiency curve. Most PSUs are at their highest efficiency around 50% load, which is where they achieve a specific 80 Plus rating. If you were to buy a 500W PSU to power a 400W system, you would probably be using more power from the wall than if you were to use a PSU closer to 800W. The extra cost of the wattage may be enough to negate any savings on your electric bill, but it will also be quieter and dump less heat into your room, which is especially nice if you live in a hot climate.

[@mailboxesgalore]

The other thing about less heat for power supplies is that those electronics inside the power supply have lifespans that represent power curves as a function of the operating temperature. A 105C rated capacitor might last 5000 hours at the rated 105C, but could last 160000 hours at 55C. By producing less heat in the power supply, the electronics are less prone to breaking and since the lifespan derating curve is rather dramatic, you should be able to get a lot more life out of your PSU simply by working it less hard.

[@CrazyMineCuber]

I made a huge mistake that would be good for others to know about. If you ever replace your power supply, DO NOT be lazy and keep the cables from your old power supply! They are not standardized and could destroy your components. I personally busted my two harddrives and dvd player. Lyckely i was able to recover my data by phyically changing the hdds pcb and SOLDERING off the rom chip on the old to the new pcb. NOT something you want to have to do!

[@3DAnaglyphGames]

You got lucky it only killed the PCB. I've had drive failures due to power supplies and it killed something inside, assuming the mechanism that drives the reading head.

[@CrazyMineCuber]

Csõsz Ferenc Ferdinánd Did it sound bad or what do you mean by damaging something on the inside? I have a hard time seeing how wrong power could cause the heads to fail. Did you try replacimg the pcb properly? (Doing rom transfer?)

[@3DAnaglyphGames]

@@CrazyMineCuber I took it to a hardware repair shop which said they did hard drive repairs and they said that replacing the PCB and the chip on it didn't make it start up

[@Cilghal001]

Built a brand new rig in January. components: Meshify C (2 factory fans) + 140mm Noctua - quiet B450 MSI gaming pro carbon ac ryzen 2600x (stock cooler) - quiet EVGA 1060 6GB SSC - quiet Corsair CX650M - FAN IS LOUD (not AF, however it's the only thing I hear over everything) So yeah, even those PSUs that are not the cheapest suck in this regard.

[@muhammadal-hiyari5239]

tested all the power supply calculators here is the results System: CPU: 2600x GPU:sapphire pulse vega 56 RAM: 2x8GB 3200 DDR4 Storage: NVME M.2 500GB Fans: 2x140mm, 1x120mm, and 1 amd wraith spire calculator results: seasonic: 1060 W minimum MSI: 326 W bequiet: 384 W with overclocking 338 W without overclocking outer vision: 578 W with overclocking Real world: my PC never draws more than 400 W measured from the wall I have a 650 W evga g2 80+ gold so that's 360 W but don't go that low buy 50 watts more than what you need just to have that peace of mind recommended: outer vision calculator.

[@paulelderson934]

Did the seasonic calculator really recommend at least 1060w? That's plain ridiculous! I mean yeah the Vega 56 is a bit hungry, but who actually _needs_ a 1000+ PSU? That's some SLI Titan RTX kind of deal.

[@muhammadal-hiyari5239]

@@paulelderson934 yup my thoughts exactly some random poor guy is gonna use it and get a less than optimal specs for his money because he allocated too much money on the power supply

[@carlwolf5923]

LTT: You don't need a high wattage power suppl. Me: *laughs in modded Vega 56*

[@ShaawKP]

Suggestion: USB slots are not all equal. Your cheap case/motherboard with X USB ports may not work with newer periferals if they're using older USB standards.

[@reddcube]

We need more from this series. Especially how to properly configure the UEFI/BIOS.

[@Auto209]

Went with water cooling cause I bought into the hype. Didn’t overclock for almost 2 years. Finally decided to do some basic OC and really don’t notice the difference. i7 7700k

[@Isaac-sf4zl]

I literally watched the whole rest of this series just today. I have the force!

[@WiseSilverWolf]

I got a Corsair 900D thinking I was going to do water cooling and then in the end I never ended up doing water cooling and was stuck with a gigantic case taking up a bunch of space and paying more for a case than what I actually needed. The next build I want to go either Mini-ITX, Mini-DTX, or try to go with something like an ATX Mid Tower at the most since im not a fan of watercooling.

Some more tips: For monitor use displayport cables not hdmi. Make sure you have long enough cables. Dont extend usb over troughput specific lengths. No IDE ripping any more, but still, dont bend cables to death. Modular PSU benefits with leaving out a cable or two vs just ziptie up the leftover. If you first start your machine, dont plug all usb stuff into it, just the most necessary to avoid issues. Make sure gpu height and length are ok with your case. Tall cards exists. Try to keep your vga and audio cables far from other cables and electronics to avoid interferences. Dont spare the extra 2 fans by lazyness, add those to your case.

[@datAero]

Water-cooling isn't better than air if you got a big boi from noctua

[@blacktommer3543]

Custom water loops are better than even the NH-D15. However the NH-D15 is better than basically any AIO.

[@Lambretta_G]

THANK YOU. The water cooling propaganda needs to stop. The D15 performs as well as a double rad AIO, while costing less, making less noise and not dying in 3 years. Custom loops are better of course, but not worth the fuss for almost everyone.

[@arencorparencorp2189]

@@blacktommer3543 not really, these 360mm aio can be crappy OR silent as better, depends

[@yulfine1688]

@@Lambretta_G depends on the case most cases that domt have good airflow AIo are superior and more quiet. Overclocking once again water wins. People act as if air is superior it's not. It rarely wins and usually has more drawbacks anyways. Water has a higher thermal dissipation compared to air just naturally. Spending a ton for a high end air cooler is usually trivial compared to aios. Yeah they can preform the same if you have a good airflow case with some other drawbacks but that's how it is. Stick with stock air coolers for most builds anyways. No need to get fancy for good cooling it's more of a looks thing then anything.

[@animefreak5757]

@@yulfine1688 LTT did a video where some noctua coolers were half the price, and outperformed the AIO's (abliet marginally) in both thermals AND noise. I forget if they included a overclock there, but it's mostly a moot point. I usually get a 212 evo. My i5 760 Oc'd from 2.8 to 3.8, and didn't go above 60-65 during any normal load (70-80 under synthetic bench's), on all cores. Similar story with my 4690k, 3.5 up to 4.7 all cores, with a new 212 evo. You say water has higher thermal dissipation compared to air, and this is true, but the heat's going to have to go back to air at some point. The benefit isn't that water dissipates heat better then air, it's that it has much higher thermal capacity, and you can move the rad to a position more conducive to fitting a very large cooler. you don't need watercooling to OC, and in all likeliness it's going to grant you a marginally better OC, if anything at all. Most of us though can't tell the difference between 4.7ghz and 4.9ghz though (a 4-5% increase). If your building something cutting edge, it sort of makes sense, your already well past any value point, so spending a bit more for another marginal increase in power isn't a big deal. It falls apart from a practical standpoint on anything else though. There's no reason to spend 2-4x more on a cooling solution that will increase performance by a couple percent, unless you just want it, or like the looks or whatever.

[@Caesar512]

Oh how innocent we were, a 500W PSU in the before times. Now the 3080 sucks back 300W by itself.

[@gordowg1wg145]

Depends, I over spec' the PSU because 1/ It will run in it's most efficient operating range. 2/ It will be quieter as it doesn't need to spin the cooling fan up to keep cool, as one operating towards the top of it's rating will do. 3/ If i should add addition components I don't need to worry about the current draw. 4/ Some lower power PSUs have fewer auxiliary power options. However, as you suggest, some aren't concerned with all that and a reputable PSU running close to spec' power rating should do what they want. NOTE, many years ago I needed a cheapo case for an emergency build (case ghadn't arrived) and it came with a cheapo Chinese PSU that was rated as xxxW - but on examination that was the TOTAL, including 3.3V, 5V, etc. outputs and the 'true' 12V power was a LOT less...

[@spider0804]

Common pc building trap, building an atx case and motherboard. Matx is far cheaper, smaller, and still has enough pci slots for any sane person.

[@cccccccs]

spider0804 unless you’re trying to do a high end build. There aren’t very many choices for mATX boards when only considering premium components. X570 appears to only have one offering from ASRock for example.

[@dubious6718]

Not even close and you get better air flow with bigger mobos

[@cccccccs]

@@dubious6718 Airflow mostly depends on the case and fans... you could argue that an mATX board has better cooling potential because it has fewer components than an ATX board.

[@spider0804]

@@dubious6718 ever see the video on Linus tech tips where they stuffed a computer with clothes and it didn't affect thermals much at all.

[@HipposHateWater]

@@dubious6718 That would only be true if mATX was more cramped than ATX--which it's not. The spacing is the same, it's just that ATX has another 2 inches of PCIe slots at the bottom of the board. Everything else is more or less the same, including airflow since the spacing of components does not change.

[@kirosmatavastros]

1 - if cost aint issue - buy biggest Wattage. you don't wanna buy another one if you might get idea to upgrade your rig in the future. don't make my mistake. i was gifted another 1Tb HDD and i can't even use it cuz power supply was bought specifically for the original components and lacking a bit extra.

[@kirosmatavastros]

2 - water-cooling is not just the aestetics. on average liquid cooling is way quieter than fans that do the same job. and no - basic fans dont cut it by themselves if you are living in the hotter regions of our planet. so vid's opinion is well bias.

[@kirosmatavastros]

3 - just let them blow at max RPMs. and ye - that's probably why one might wanna buy a power supply with spare wattage. electricity is cheap, unless you are living in US.

[@kirosmatavastros]

4 - okay. that's fair. most people do skip installing monitor driver's even.

[@Divenity]

I mean... you can overclock just fine with a beefy air cooler, Noctua's high end air coolers, like the NH-D15, are competitive with liquid cooling solutions at the same pricepoint.

[@animefreak5757]

according to LTT themselves, they are actually marginally better then AIO's. I'm with you though, tech guys seem to keep implying that you should watercool if you overclock. In reality though, I heavily overclock my cpu's on cheapo hyper 212's. I don't go for max numbers, but even with this cheap cooler I can easily get 80-90% of the OC that a AIO would.

[@pederslothzuricho7685]

From experience helping another guy with a faulty boot, AIO cooling can be plugged into the wrong pin header resulting in a pump running uneven speeds, triggering overheating, or the pump to die, leaving the AIO as just a very fancy water bottle. On the same system a faulty PSU ended up damaging the Motherboard, and my mistake was to focus on the overheating cpu issue, resulting in the death of the motherboard, the lesson is that if you have an issue with power, always make sure your PSU is discharged, if it is faulty and down discharge or you dont have ground plugged into the PSU from the wall, any capacitors in the the PSU can discharge to the components reorienting components, which can cause lasting damage, as the only ground connection is you, your own fingers can cause shorts that will carry the discharge, even if it is small enough that you dont feel it, it can still pass through more delicate components. Safest thing to do is simply to use a ground pin on the psu, power down the system turn off the PSU on the back, then disconnect it from the socket in the wall and ground yourself. Although not common to get static shock issues, these are the kind of trouble shoots that leads to multiple component troubleshooting, which is much more difficult to diagnose, and can leave you barking up the wrong tree for a very long time!

[@bobuk5722]

I'd suggest adding 20% to the basic power calculation. The PSU will last longer if it is not operated on the limit. Check if calculator you use does this for you. Also bear in mind possible expansion or additions, especially an extra GPU. BobUK.

[@nicksheen]

If your system uses every watt your PSU has to offer, the fan will need to run at 100% to keep it cool. Buy an overpowered PSU, save yourself from screaming Cooler Master PSU fan banshees.

[@CaveyMoth]

My PSU is so overpowered, you'd think I got it from Walmart. I'm so glad that the fan doesn't spin under full system load.

[@rayquantum6677]

Is an rtx 2080 ti enough to run most triple A games at 160+ FPS 1440p

[@noahsvirsky9962]

Some, prob not most

[@theparrot271]

That's kinda a lot to expect in this day. You probably won't find a monitor like that either.

[@prantanilbhowmick1070]

You’ll have an amazing gaming experience either way. But if you need those ridiculous numbers the. Yeah if you pit it on mid settings

[@rayquantum6677]

The Parrot ik but I can find one with g-sync 144 I just don’t want it to drop under 144hz and I decided on a 2080 super and I only really care about view distance

[@warfare20111]

@@rayquantum6677 play with all other settings off other than your competitive settings, yeah you might get 160++ ez (like in MW/Overwatch) but you won't be able to reach those if you don't have an equally good CPU to supply info to the GPU, 16gb ram more than 2000mhz

[@YEdwardP]

So I heard that if you want to build a more silent system, you can buy a higher wattage power supply so that even at relatively high loads, it stays in its fanless mode. Price aside, are there any other downsides to this strategy?

[@CaveyMoth]

Lemme think. Uhhhh...it'll make your PC...heavier, I guess?

[@renovr5183]

linus and friends deserve so much more from you tube. Keep up the good work and i love all the great content

[@Kerdtress]

You can actually plug many Fans with an Y-Adapter in a single Port. 3,4 or even 6 Fans and more are no problem. But you should only do this with Fan's that should run the exact same speed (Fans on a Radiator, Airflow Fans in your case etc.)

[@m.streicher8286]

Why the hell where the only 3 fan options the motherboard, power supply, or manual control? A standard mid tower with a push pull 360, your looking at an easy 10 fans *at least*, you can't do that with a mobo. Why not just recommend a few splitters?

[@Vaxtin]

Fan splitters also help with the "not enough headers" problem as well, usually.

[@GrrumpyPants]

Figured I'd check this video before commenting on a tip I thought of watching ep.5. Linus mentioned m.2 drives not all being nvme, however he didn't mention that some m.2 slots on the motherboard may only support one type of m.2 drive! Usually this will be on motherboards with 2+ slots, where one of them may only support one type of the drive, but the other will support any.

[@TheRealDavidLawrence]

Requirements: 395 - 456 watts Have: 850 watts. I did go a little overboard, I did plan to do a new build tho...

[@CaveyMoth]

Power supplies are usually most efficient at around 50% power output. Not to mention that your PSU probably doesn't even have to spin its noisy fan at such a low output. It's worth the extra wattage and cost!

[@TheRealDavidLawrence]

@@CaveyMoth Thank you, I was actually thinking the same thing... The less of it's capacity I use, The longer it would last too...

[@dennis4180]

Also, DO NOT skimp out on the monitor cables. Don't buy that cheap chinese displayport because you save 10 dollars on it. I had an issue where my computer was literally shorted out and boot looped by my monitor because the faulty cable was conducting electricity on a pin it wasn't supposed to.

[@MrReese]

I have been using 500W PSUs for almost 20 years now and they have always been enough for my gaming needs with strong gfx cards. It is more important to get a high quality unit (80 gold or higher) instead of excessive power.

[@Titanium_Man]

You can also use a 2-1 splitter for fans, usually a motherboard fan header can run more than 1 fan.

[@legendsneverdye8949]

You need to be careful when buying m.2 ssds and make sure that the key of the m.2 fits the socket on the motherboard. I've seen B, M and B+M keys so far but don't know if there are more...

[@SpitfireZero]

Did the test since I have a 1,000watt PSU... i7 7700k OC to 4.9ghz, 16gb RAM and GTX1080 (Both CPU and GPU watercooled with their own pumps and fans) and Im barely breaking 480 watts... Total overkill... Def going 600watt and modular next build.

[@Nakasuku]

I have a question im new to pc building and today I received my motherboard and I opened it bcz i want to check if everything is alright and i opened the the static bag while my leg is touching a turned on pc .. is that ok or i just destroyed my motherboard..? I can’t check bcz im still waiting for the psu to arrive... please help

[@MrGible]

So I need some help. I have a laptop that's out of warranty that refuses to turn on. I don't plan on saving the laptop, but saving the data. The problem is it has two SSD's and they're in raid 0 for the OS, how would I retrieve the data for something like that?

[@brianbest125]

I disagree with the power recommendations. Power supplies are more efficient at around 50% load, when a power supply calculator says 500 and you get a 600-700 you ensure most of your power usage is at 50%. This also generates less heat in the power supply making it last longer and be more reliable. The difference of often $15-$20 is worth it and will often pay for itself in the life of your PC.

[@telumatramenti7250]

Outervision is actually the best PSU calculator to use. Don't bother with New Egg's one, they purposefully try to sell you higher wattage, more expensive PSUs. If you own a kill-a-watt device, - you'll be surprised just how accurately Outervision represents your build's power consumption.

[@Wielaica]

If you connect a new external drive to your PC, don't forget to turn the cache on in the windows settings, otherwise it will be slow. Unless if you want it to be hot swappable. Oh And connect it to the fastest USB slot of course.

[@JyotishmanRubu123]

Sir... I have - i7 8700k 3.7ghz processor - MSI RTX 2080ti gaming x trio - Corsair 16gb ddr4 3000 Ram - Gigabyte Z370 D3H motherboard - Acer 240hz 1080p gaming monitor - Coolermaster v1000 smps - 2 tb toshiba HDD But still in games fps drops to 25 to 30fps...lags alot... Very poor performance What is the problem...can you please help me out ????

[@GameslordXY]

PC Ventilators were my huge concern. Until,while seeking silence friendly casing,I stumbled upon casing with 3 supposedly silent ventilators. Now, I have nothing to compare it to,but it got me what I wanted. I can barely hear anything. Well most of the time anyways. Sometimes it can get a bit louder true,likely a CPU stock cooler,but still not loud enough to be heard outside of my room. Even during night. Which is exactly what I wanted. I also got Seasonic power supply. S12II Silent 12CM Fan Series 620 80+ Bronze 620W. Old,but reliable model...or so I heard. So far so good. Flaws? It's not modular.

[@spendle]

Here's mine: if you're going to use M.2 drives (specifically, more than 1) check your motherboard's M.2 ports to see if they are SATA, PCIe or both. I recently built a computer with 2 SATA M.2 drives and was wondering why both wouldn't show up until I discovered only 1 of the 2 ports could use PCIe or SATA, but the other was PCIe only.

[@M99ZK]

"Be surprised how little we really need"? I still can't accept that there are people with single graphics card who buy more than 500 or 600W. I mean like literally an electric hot plate (without the oven) is something between 600 and 800W.

[@ramanmono]

Wow, the hype is back. Star Wars hype is back. Imma binge the original trilogy right now. Can't wait for episode IX

[@horstherbert35]

jar jar was the best character from the original trilogy I still get nostalgic about the dude

[@eml0313]

My friend bought a 1080ti, but he doesn't know how to do it properly and he thought only connecting it to the power supply and nothing more. How do I convince him to connect it to his motherboard.

[@mariuszkochel1112]

And again some SilentiumPC case on the miniature :)

[@NekoJanz]

"you see, because components today are a lot more power efficient than they were even a decade ago. . ." _Radeon VIIs wailing in the distance_

[@uss_04]

If this whole LTT thing doesnt work out, James seems like he can easily work for SpaceX

[@ab9zd73]

PS calculator recommended 850 W for my Threadripper 2 setup. I went with a 1000 W that Best Buy had on sale so guess I'm good. Liquid cooled the CPU so it will run quiet. Wicked fast.

[@sarah.dxv3]

Building my pc tommorow can't wait, thanks for all the tips and tricks and shits and giggles. Thanks

[@UrvineSpiegel]

I've been using the same 750 watt non-modular power supply for over 10 years. Its seen 4 towers, several gfx cards from GTX 9800 to 1080 ti, 3 mobos, 4 CPUs, and countless RAM sticks and HDD/SSD My cable management looks like it was done by Dr. Octopus, but this PSU is still going strong.

[@Genetic18]

Speaking of watercooler could you explain the difference between the AIO PUMP header vs the CPU FAN header? I use my h100i with the cpu header because my system won't boot if i don't use it...

[@mjbakedbeans]

I just bought some case fans, and the screws don’t fit in the holes for my case it’s weird. They are the correct size and the holes line up.

[@CaveyMoth]

Case fans have really thicc screws, man. Hmm. Is your case old or what?

[@barbilla0dt]

Is it time for Linux Subsystem on Windows 10 Explained yet?

[@TheOneAndOnlyOuuo]

Just get the real thing and stop asking people to explain it to you. (Bad linux humor)

[@AnymMusic]

still gonna upgrade my PSU a bit tho. upgrading to a RTX 2070 for Cyberpunk, and my 550w Bronze powersupply might give bottlenecks

[@Sholities]

I got a 1200W Phanteks Revolt in my new system (that's waiting on a Ryzen 9 3900X) because I was gonna stuff a 2nd system in my Evolv X, but I got a 240mm radiator on top that blocks that idea. So I just got a high wattage PSU for one system now.

[@rusam2040]

I just built my first of yet, but the fan is making allot of noice, I'm planning to get a new one, but till then what should I do?

[@rayquantum6677]

Is 700w enough for Ryzen 9 3900x and rtx 2080 ti.

[@hellcat1988]

For people like me, who ditch the wall wart power supply for a 12v DC monitor and make our own power cables to run them off the psu, having a 650+ power supply gives some headroom for components AND monitor use. Just sayin.

[@youtubeaddict5893]

Hey with power supplies you should have mentioned rating as well. 500W gold is different from no rating. My RTX2070 would overload my non-rated Cooler Master 600W psu, when I was doing deep learning

[@mozzjones6943]

The rating is efficiency. There are power supplies from reputable companies lower down the price range that don't get certified, Doesn't mean they are not safe, Just that they don't meet the minimum bronze cert for efficiency. It's the super cheap un-heard of brands with no cert that you need to be wary of because they could be very bad at regulating power delivery and create a lot of waste into heat which is obviously bad, And because they are not linked to a reputable company, Who knows what testing conditions it's passed?

[@Zappyguy111]

I tried running an AIO with an fx-8300 and Vega 64 (progressive upgrade). The 750W was insufficient and after moving the Vega to an old 500W PSU and the system booted. I've since upgraded my PSU.

[@motoryzen]

1:00 to 1:07..OR overclocking. Add an extra 200 watts for that to be in the safe and comfy zone.

[@mikeschimminger7886]

Guys, I get it. You are trying to help noob PC builders. How about including people that know how to build a PC but are curious about LC/Hardline tubes. Most people that watch the channel are more than able to build an air cooled PC but....let's get water and custom loops in the mix.

[@4horsemenoftheapocalypse58]

What would you recommend if I wanted to build a Ryzen 9/2080ti build?

[@NathanielKempson]

Dont.

[@4horsemenoftheapocalypse58]

@@NathanielKempson if you dont mind me askimg why, AMD has been on a roll on the CPU side

[@CaveyMoth]

Listen to this video and get a PSU that just barely eeks by...watch it fail you.

[@Isotope_13]

Everyone says it's bad to have an underpowered power supply, but I'd like to see an actual demonstration of what happens.

[@KTSpeedruns]

FINALLY A NEW EPISODE!

[@Matthew.Sirrom]

Water cooling isn't different from a good copper air cooler .. linus debunked that on a video a few weeks ago.

[@NirateGoel]

Well the video released a few weeks ago...

[@CarlTheSpud]

The copper air coolers have a bit of liquid in it. Grab a coolermaster (for example) chasis and get 80mm and 120mm fans. Establish GOOD AIR FLOW. 120mm exhausts on top. A 120mm intake on side. X2 80mm intake in front to feed that copper cooler (fan facing front should intake, fand opposiite of metal plates should exhaust out the back.) and a 120mm exhaust on back. 120mm use less power. For GPU's 2 80mm are great at handling spikes in heat (more rpm) but that draws more load as well. just be aggresive with your curve. And use your monitor software

[@zhonxina2800]

you can actually use a fan spiltter to plug 2 or even 3 fan from only 1 fan header

[@Mavis847]

Can you then control them separately though?

[@CaveyMoth]

4 fans is the recommended maximum for a single fan connector. (Around 1 amp maximum in power throughput). The fans will be synchronized together according to the "duty cycle" set to the header. Basically, it thinks only 1 fan is connected..so all of your fans act the same.

[@brykit1972]

Also, PCPartPicker tracks voltage as you build/shop.

[@spencerschiller6902]

How accurate the PC Partpicker one is is questionable, I usually get 100w less on PCPP than on Outervision PSU calculator.

[@ff00005]

While I can certainly run a ~100W CPU + 250W GPU + 50W everything else (so say 400W total) on a 450W or 500W PSU, that PSU will be way beyond it's peak efficiency. Running your PSU at around 60% of it's capabilities puts you right around the maximum of the efficiency curve for all curves I've seen yet. As for not wasting energy (which is mostly converted to heat which will end up in the system) there are arguments to use a 750W PSU for a 400W System.

[@trixstermillion2190]

Hey, what happened to that Linux dude from the first five videos?

[@Maoilios]

He ate a burrito and went flying

[@InekoBK]

These days all major psu manufacturers have 750W psu's and above for somewhere between 85 and 100 euros . My Corsair psu even has a 10 year warranty so I don't see the point to cheap out on a lighter psu , since I have no idea what system I have in a couple of years that my psu will likely be powering

[@JamesRussoMillas]

The fan header tip was legit the best

[@tabarnacus5629]

I have to disagree with the power supply statement, at least in the case of anyone who intends to overclock.I was using 750 watts Zotac full modular PSU on my rig and had all sorts of crashes I thought were due to my overclocking. Turns out with 2 aio's and over 10 fans (including 2 200mm fans) all flashy with the rgb goodness 750 watts is nowhere near enough. So with nvlink as a later upgrade in mind I bought a 1200 watts full modular Rosewill PSU that was on sale. And now my rig is not only stable but I also managed to increase my overclock on the cpu and gpu by 5%. Morale of the story, better have too much than not enough.

[@tabarnacus5629]

J H Well the case fans + the fans included with the 2 aio's, adds up prettry fast with 2 360mm rads. But yeah, that's why I don't think getting just enough wattages for your build like they suggest is nota good idea. You never know where your next upgrade will take you so I personally like some headroom. You can't go wrong with too much as long as you don't break your wallet in the process. Unlike cpus and gpus, power supply often go on sale for substantial amounts so just be smart about it.

[@qiyubi]

You need a strong psu if you have an AMD graphics card... The rx580 for example : 185W and I don't know how many with an oc

[@zenniz1992]

Only need a good quality 500W psu

[@isbestlizard]

amen to water cooling.. slapped a noctua air cooler on my threadripper, it hits 75C max with a package power of 270W :D

[@Thanpren]

Oh men... I wish I knew about screw sizes. I have already... screwed the screw holes of an HDD by using wrong type of screws. Possible to know more on that?

[@auto9894]

I cannot tell you how many times I've seen people on reddit ask, "I have a GTX 1050 with an i3 7100. Will 850 watts be enough"? 🙄🙄🙄🙄

[@dubious6718]

Yea, why ask, just buy 1200w

[@nathnathn]

Forgot to mention digital fan controllers that connect via internal usb header. Sadly no +60hz monitor for me until i get my new one. Waiting on hdmi 2.1 before buying. Current one is starting to show its age. first 24’ 4k monitor that was on sale “at least as far as I’m aware”

[@princesscool69]

i just watched the series and can deffinately reccomend having snacks somewhere else othe than where your building. i was building my first pc with a friend and leaned against the table not realising the massive cup of coke was behind me so i ended up spilling it all over my psu mobo and graphics card, literally $1500 worth of my build at the time. so i had to spend another 200 just to have someone take it all apart and clean it for me before it was built. lucky for me we hadnt put power through it so the components still worked

[@michaelrichter2528]

I would take the results of those calculators with a grain of salt because they want to sell you the more expensive stuff. I typed my PC specs into the Seasonic calculator and it recommends me a PSU with 543W but my PC is running pretty fine with my current 450W PSU. I also measured the power draw a while ago at the wall socket and couldn't get it over 350W...