Axle Regearing made EASY - Dana Series Axles

Welcome to my comprehensive guide on how to regear a Dana series axle! Whether you’re upgrading for better performance or changing gear ratios for off-road adventures, this video covers everything you need to know. I’ll walk you through the entire process with detailed instructions and tips to ensure a smooth and successful regear.
What You’ll Learn in This Video:
- Tools and Materials Needed: A complete list of tools and materials required for the job.
- Removing the Old Gears: Step-by-step instructions on how to safely remove the old gears from your Dana axle.
- Setting Up New Gears: Detailed guidance on installing and setting up the new gears.
- Adjusting Backlash and Pinion Depth: Tips and tricks to achieve the perfect setup.
- Reassembly and Testing: How to reassemble your axle and test your new gear setup.
LINKS:
MAGNETIC DIAL INDICATOR
www.amazon.com/Indicator-Magn...
INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH WITH DIAL:
www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4...
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Disclaimer: This video is intended for educational and entertainment purposes only. Always prioritize safety and consult a professional if you aren’t sure about any steps. Injury can result in poor construction and modification of your vehicle. War Paint Customs LLC is not responsible.

[@bill06gto]

Great video thanks !!!

[@9greatdanes981]

I bought two spare axels that had up grades. Ring gears are different. Wanted to swap my gears from my current axles and put them in . Model 20 model 35. For my cj same axles, new ones have a wider track.

[@WarPaintOffroad]

That’s do axle provided they are the same exact axles. Once that is confirmed…make sure you take the measurements of backlash and run a pinion depth pattern BEFORE you take the original axles apart. Once you do, the new axles have to be set up EXACTLY the same or your gears will be VERY noisy. Minor differences in the casting even if they are the same exact axles will make you have to adjust shins for both back lash and depth. And if it is t EXACTLY the same…because they have already worn together in the other axles they’ll be too loud and wear prematurely. What I would do if just fork out the cash to buy new gears, and bearings…and set up the new axles with the same gear as you others if you line the ratio. Selling your others as compete axles when you are done will get you some of the cash back and you are doing all to e work anyway…then you’ll also have new gears and bearings.

[@azimutazimut3165]

great new video!.. I have a couple questions... There is something I have not seen mentioned on any of the DIY Dana 60 tutorials... and it is checking that the carrier bearing races seat properly in the housing (race bores), I am going through the process of installing the same setup, Dana 60 Superduty F250 2005+ with Zip Locker.....I noticed that one of the carrier bearing races (passenger) does not seat perfectly into the bore, I can rock it and it has a slight movement from side to side, enough to see the light through... but a tiny gap.. probably half a millimeter, I did file the imperfections on the housing race bore with a small file and then scraped it with a utility knife, the races almost seat perfectly now.. it just needs a tiny bit more filing, I guess the imperfection was already there.... also... for driving the outer pinion bearing (yoke side)... is it possible to use the old nut + yoke to press it into the pinion?.. or perhaps washers and the old nut?... my concern is that hammering the bearing into the pinion will transfer some of that energy into the pinion/ring gear teeth and possible causing minor damage?? ... BTW... I have the 2008 Ford F250 service and repair manual... and there is no mention of either my concerns... checking that the race fits into the bore... or how to press the new outer pinion bearing into the bearing..in fact, the manual goes from assembling everything and then says, install yoke and drive the yoke into the pinion to torque, it completely omits any mentioning of how to install the outer pinion bearing.. from the procedure it seems the manual is instructing to press the bearing into the pinion and to press the yoke at the same time with the nut?.. I am confused... LOL.... Thanks!!!!

[@WarPaintOffroad]

Hey! Thanks for the support! I’m going to try to answer all your questions. If I doesn’t make sense send me a PM on instagram and we can have an easier more timely convo there! But as far as the clearances on carrier bearings; it’s my understanding that the bearing surface in the diff and the cap work together to get perfectly round. I’m not a machinist, but it might just be that the race and new bearing as designed with the ability to be tightened down, it forces it to be “round”. With no mention of it anywhere else, I wouldn’t be concerned. As far as pinion bearing; the inner just gets pressed in. The outter, I like to heat the inner race and drop on the bearing. I just spend 30 seconds or so with a torch on the inner race and that is usually enough to have it slide right on. With some heat, if it doesn’t slide all the way on, a few light taps sends it home. I have never had a problem doing that. Just hammering it in is always a way of doing it…but I also don’t like the abuse on the ring gear and pinion head. So heat is what I usually resort to. It much easier. Just have to let it cool before continuing with set up.

[@azimutazimut3165]

@@WarPaintOffroad Thanks for the reply message!!!.. one more question... I see that you installed a new Yoke... do you mind sharing the maker / model number? Thanks!

[@azimutazimut3165]

Hey!.. I actually found the model.. .it is the Yukon Gear YY D60-1350-29U .... this yoke is the one that uses U-Bolts... the holes are not threaded... also... the U-Bolts are Yukon YY UB-004 ... one more question.. when you press the New outer pinion bearing (the Yoke side) ... how do you remove the bearing if the preload is not correct and You have to tweak the shim thickness?.. the bearing is pressed in hard.. I made the mistake of hammering the pinion to get it out... but that marred the race cup.. I had to replace it... but now I am in the same situation.. I need to remove it again... I don't want to hammer it out.. I have seen people using an Air Hammer.. but.. do you have any other way to remove the pinion / bearing that does not cause damage? Thanks!

[@VINNY5674]

Wish I can get you to do my Dana 30 my carrier and pinion bearings are shot. But looking for a place near near new york city

[@WarPaintOffroad]

Good luck. I’m pretty far from NYC. But honestly, any gear shop would be able to do them. You could always contact a transmission shop and ask them for a recommendation. They’ll usually know someone.

[@mdratulakonda1]

Subscribe Done. I hope you are very well. You already have a 14.2K subscriber which is a huge number. Your content ideas are excellent. But your videos do not have much engagement. and need a proper searchable video tag set up to reach the targeted area and audience. Your SEO score is much lower. Can I share with you some plans for increasing views and subscribers organically?