Aztek Dummy Update 8/18/23 - Kronos Two - Part 1

[@Joepacker]

Lou you're doing two double, doubles in a row. take it easy man. You'll give yourself a heart attack.

[@dennisbisconti4583]

Lou + love the paint work on Kronos 1 I got to admit they did Matt Jeffries design proud they detailed it nicely from the motion picture and on ward 🎉

[@paulsmodels]

Alright! I am really looking forward to these 2 kits getting Smerfed together! I have built the K'Tinga kit with the lighting kit, and It was one of my favorites to spluge together! Awesome! 🚀🛸🤠

[@vengeance1701]

You're the first I've seen, Lou.

[@portland-182]

It's subtle, but yes the sides of the cobra head light up in places - it looks like simulating 8 lights per side

[@dbroadwayvfx]

Lou, a couple of suggestions going forward. 1. Prime the inside of the model flat white to cover all that black plastic. NOT Silver. Trust me. This will greatly enhance the bounce lighting from the stock lighting kit and make the windows much brighter and even. 2. To diffuse the nacelle grills or other clear parts, Mix Tamiya Flat Base 50/50 with Tamiya X-22. Then coat the clear part evenly. This will leave a VERY frosted surface and diffuse the light fantastically and hide the bulbs.

[@robertdoughty]

I've just acquired this kit and come to your video as a prelude to building it. That red is Klingon blood red, it is pinker than human blood as shown in the film.

[@TheCajuntexan]

I wish they would do a 1/350 of the Original D7 like they did with TOS Enterprise

[@weevilman]

Whaaaaat? Lou you mad man, take care of yourself sir, we are a patient lot, I'm going back through the Miranda build now, it's great having you in the room, bud!

[@cimmerian100]

I wanted the 350 Kronos from the start but having bought the K;Tinga, am loath to fork out for almost the same kit AND the photoetch. These kits are eye-wateringly expensive to get here in the UK. You think conversion is possible on the 350 K;tinga to the K1?

[@aztekdummy]

The big difference is the nacelle. Everything else is merely cosmetic. The nacelles and the bridge tower. If you could get the etch. You could make a passable kronos one out of the ktinga

[@rasmokey4]

This Kronos One will be my 4th build! The first waas the regular ktinga. The 2nd and 3rd were kit bashes, using modelwerks nacelle inserts! I just love building these Klingon ships!!

[@sci_tec]

Lou its always the last one you look for because you quit looking for it after you find it.

[@raincoast_bear]

Good stuff, Lou. You have inspired me to 3D print and paint a 1/2500 K'Tinga for my wargaming Klingon Fleet. Qapla'

[@ooklathemok]

When you said Kronos 2 i thought i'd missed something hahaha. Great fun to watch as per

[@christopherbrown5924]

thanks for Adding The Little Snippets Of Airbrushing This Teaches Me . : )

[@robertevans8126]

Yes, The Klingon Starship with 2 Warp Coils (An -experimental Craft that could remained cloaked when firing!).

[@garywood1973]

Lou ,I was wondering if you could evaluate the photo etch for this Kronos 1 & 2 kits , my issue is with photo etch on paint after 12 months it falls off sometimes it is the paint or a crook batch from bob smith glue ,usually I put my photo etch on plastic directly & it holds no problems , however with putting it on paint does give me pause & issue , any advice would be welcomed as yet we don't have this kit in Australia but it will come , lastly keep up the good work I like your honesty it helps believe me .😄

[@aztekdummy]

Yes I will

[@spacedock873]

I try to avoid glueing to paint anyway for this reason - I am always surprised when Lou does it 😳 Having said that, trying to leave bare plastic or scratch paint away from under all that PE would likely be a nightmare.

[@malcolmmacdougall]

yes but PE is tricky anyway, especially if you have to handle the model a lot, i bloody hate the stuff

[@alansankus9846]

Hi Lou love the work u do in every kit bringing it to life. But to get to the Kronos one kit what colors for the main color and the red u use thanks again for your time and patience Alan sankus

[@Dragon_Werks]

Use Future or some other clear acrylic gloss to attach clear parts. Just keep them aligned and let it dry.

[@d_jedi1]

Oh, also, on the studio model, the photo-etch was left over from Blade Runner. I have an image of the sheet used that I was trying to get someone to make as PE after I finished my K1 model but... now there's something official available, so that quest is over.

[@eliotbrown4506]

This reminds me of all those watchmaker videos I like to drift through. About as complicated but the parts are larger. Now two at once! Wowee. Fun to watch you work through colors and masks and such. I can answer why they didn't give a red LED for the engines-- because they are mixed in with white ones. Red LEDs work as low as 1.2V and white ones need 2.8V or thereabouts. They would have either needed a whole separate circuit or the extra labor of adding resistors-- a new set up, label, training and supply station. Oh no. What a world of brass for this big baby. That is very cool to see. Really looking forward to seeing the "all up" version!

[@aztekdummy]

But what about those red LEDs that are basically just regular white LEDs with red plastic dones instead of clear?

[@eliotbrown4506]

@@aztekdummy That may be a case of taking advantage of bulk buying one color LED and already having a red sprue in clear. It's the mixing of color LEDs that becomes tricky.

[@spacedock873]

Hi Lou. Yours is the first actual build video (as opposed to unboxing) that I have seen. I quite agree with your criticisms regarding the lack of red LED's and having to modify the bridge parts. This is pretty poor for a new issue kit - especially one as expensive as this is. Many of the parts are from the K'Tinga (of which I have two still in the stash 😳) so Round 2 has had plenty of time to design round these. Red LED's are usually a lot cheaper than other colours so it is bizarre that they are not included. There may be economies of scale only buying thousands of white LED's and simplicity of construction through not having to do multiple colours but there is no advantage to the modeller. Again, on a lighting kit which is this expensive it is unacceptable. I also agree with your criticism about the bridge modification instructions only being in the lighting kit instructions and not with the main kit. If I do this kit (when the price drops a bit!) I will be doing my own lighting kit for it and this information is important. This is an exciting subject and one that people have been waiting for for a while but it smacks of charging top dollar for a product on which short-cuts have been taken.

[@Iskelderon]

That bit with the nacelle detail bits reminded me of something I did for a modified Revell TOS Enterprise (thing's inaccurate anyway, so I modified it into a testbed for TMP era tech). Made me wonder if that would be something for you as well. I resin printed thin transparent refraction plates to give the impression of ENT-like glowing warp coils that will go behind a grate to flesh out the details on the cutout the inside of the TOS nacelles has. Sometimes I also just cut a poor man's photoetch alternative on my vinyl cutter to just have a light mask behind transparent sections to give the impression of a grid in there.

[@devynsmith5280]

This looks great! I'm gonna buy your 1:1000 reliant and enterprise masks. What colors and steps do you recommend for an effective Aztec pattern? Thank you!

[@redgreen09]

SOfare so good and tune in to mwhen more to see

[@rasmokey4]

Lou, I only found one picture of the side cobra lights lighted up! And it was on the Kronos one!

[@toboldlygosmodelworks1973]

Build it with a cloaking device, you can do it Lou - it would be unique ;)

[@d_jedi1]

The new bridge dome is from the bottom of Darth Vader's TIE

[@shanestrains4724]

It's probably way too late to suggest this. However, instead of using that thin red flim and gluing it down to the clear plastic, would a coat of thin Tamiya Red Clear X27 do a better job? I'm just curious, and I think it might do a better job coverage wise. Otherwise, I'm looking forward to seeing how this mighty duo of Klingon Warships turns out.

[@aztekdummy]

the gel is a more even finish than the spray paint. and i don't have to wait for it to dry

[@jimbrust486]

This build is pointing out a lot of things that a simple unboxing fails to cover.

[@malcolmmacdougall]

it's really big, not mad keen on the red though because it clashes with gray............. but rusty red/ brown doesn't

[@carlgoldschmidt8414]

Lou I was wondering...has there ever been a Klingon shuttle craft? While you were working on the hangar bay it occurred to me Star Trek never gave us a Klingon shuttle.

[@aztekdummy]

I dont believe so. The brought out the smaller bird of prey, but no shuttle per se.

[@allanrose3661]

I'm thinking about building the Ktinga and using the Bird of Prey colors.

[@malcolmmacdougall]

yea i'm thinking of building this, but doing it in bird of prey colours, i don't like the grey and red clash............... or this but with rust brown instead of bright red

[@seanstoyroom7274]

Kronos 2 because there are two of them?

[@reb3102]

I've always loved this revision of the classic model. Was the miniature used in Trek 6 a new build or did they modify the original Trek 1 miniature?

[@cimmerian100]

modified iirc

[@laroark5036]

What's the size of the drill bit you use for the windows ?

[@aztekdummy]

i don't know. its one of those micro drill bit sets i picked up at harbor freight. i just grabbed the one that looked the closest size.

[@JessieBlood-bh4yg]

i love your masks

[@TheSonofruss]

I am not the only one l hope that sees a Grogu in the back mask?

[@michaelsullivan1262]

I would think someone using their own lighting would have sweet modeling skills and wouldn’t even look at instructions.

[@aztekdummy]

When all else fails....look at the instructions.