Cutting in a register the full process

From start to finish, with little editing, cutting in two registers and a crossover duct. This house needed the crossover so that when the door is shut the air coming out of the register is not reduced.

[@samuelg3586]

Great video, thank you for the refresher. I haven't cut in a new supply in awhile since im a service tech. Doing one next week

[@baileysair]

Glad it helped

[@takismantas1159]

Finally someone who seals properly flex to boots. Good job guys.

[@capalottrell5691]

Amazing job guys ! Very professional

[@baileysair]

Robert and Dennis are great employees and have no problem getting right in there and doing the work. The funny part of this video, my wife watched it and said poor Robert having to be up in that hot attic. I looked at her and said what about me, I was up there longer as I had to get in position to film it!

[@vikingrobot4179]

Thanks guys. This helped me a lot. I’ll be doing two of these myself so it’s gonna be a pain in the azz but I never have any help. I do have a question though. I’m splitting a bedroom into two. I’m moving the one box over since it’s in the middle of the room where my divider wall will be. I’m installing another virtually identical where I’m moving the other one to. My question is this: Can I use my original flexible duct and a Y pipe splitter to run both vents off of the single source flexible duct or does code require a dedicated duct for each register?

[@baileysair]

Since you are cutting the room in half and assuming the air was sufficient before then you should be able to just install a wye and branch to the other room.. There is no code requirement for a dedicated duct to a room. Some utility companies have tool lending libraries where you can borrow tools that are too expensive for you to purchase. PG&E and Southern California Edison has tool lending libraries that allow two weeks for free. I would see if you could borrow a flow hood and measure the air before doing the change and then measure afterwards. I would also install volume dampers in each supply duct so you could balance it if you need to. Good luck.

[@mixwithjerry]

If the register vents have mildew on them and on the surrounding sheetrock, is this likely from it not being sealed right with foam and tape? I have a few vents in the house closest to the air handler that have this issue. I pulled the covers off to clean and didn’t see any tape like y’all had on the sheetrock. I’ve had to clean them a few times, but issue comes back. The other vents in the bedrooms are clean and don’t have this issue at all.

[@baileysair]

First, where do you live? Second, mildew needs moisture and it sounds like you might live in a humid climate. The air could causing the surrounding drywall and the register to hit the dewpoint and condense moisture out of the air, I would bet that the bedrooms are clean because of lower airflow and longer runs of duct from the system allows keeps the temp a little higher and in those locations it isn't hitting the dew point.

[@mixwithjerry]

@@baileysairThanks for the response! I’m in Texas so definitely some moisture here in the air. Maybe getting a dehumidifier in this spot of the house could help.

[@baileysair]

@@mixwithjerry Yes, a dehumidifier would definitely help. To check this theory I would first buy a hygrometer that will give you the relative humidity in the space and the temperature, home depot has some fairly inexpensive ones. Then get you one of those non-contact infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the surfaces where this mildew is forming when the system is running. You can then take the air temperature from the hygrometer along with the relative humidity and plug it into this calculator to see what the dewpoint is. www.calculator.net/dew-point-calculator.html Now use the non-contact thermometer to read the surface temperatures and see how close it actually is to the dewpoint. This will tell you if it is close that humidity and air temperature coming out of the ducts could be the problem. Good luck.

[@MikeKendall]

This is great! My problem is the register is falling out of the drywall. Screws no longer holding and it seems the drywall broke near the screws. Any solutions ? Thanks and great video!

[@baileysair]

More than likely they had no backing on for the screw on that side of the box. We would take a small piece of sheet metal about the size of a postage stamp bent in an L shape with one side less than a half inch, the thickness of the drywall. We would then put a screw through it about the same distance from the box as the original screw hole. Then we would bow the side of the box out and slip the piece of metal in and then hang the register. I will try to make a video on how to do this and post it.

[@johnnyappleseed6665]

@@baileysairNice! One question, when you put the L shaped tab in, does the part of the tab you screw the 2” screws go in between the sheetrock and the vent cover, or does the tab sit above the sheetrock in the attic space?

[@jordansyoutube]

Thanks for the video nice install !

[@baileysair]

Thanks for watching

[@JackA2430]

Excellent video! Q. Can you use the same crossover duct to connect 2 rooms that are next to each other with a Y? My situation is like your video, both rooms aren't cold or hot enough. Thanks

[@baileysair]

Yes but the main trunk line will have to get bigger to allow enough airflow. 2 sizes will be sufficient. 2-6" ducts use a 8" trunk, 2-7" ducts 9" and 2-8" ducts a 10" trunk line.

[@baileysair]

A better way if the rooms are close together, put one large can and grill in the hallway and pipe the crossovers to that larger can.

[@macgyvernetwork1437]

Y’all breathing in all that dust…

[@baileysair]

So Noted

[@pearlperlitavenegas2023]

your lungs!!!! 😢that 💩s carcinogenic

[@irisjackson1081]

Good job 😊

[@baileysair]

A funny story on this, my wife was watching the video and commented, "Poor Robert having to work in that hot attic!", I turned too her and said poor Robert, what about me, who do you think was filming it! Thanks for the comment.

[@DCmite1]

is it overkill to brush the entire can with the goo in the gallon?

[@baileysair]

Yes, it is a waste to put duct mast where it does nothing. The goal is seal air leaks, so only at and on the joints.

[@theruckusdj]

Butyl tape isn't metallic is it? I thought it's a putty type tape!

[@baileysair]

The putty (Butyl) is adhered to a thick foil, so yes it is metallic. They come in two types one is black and not as sticky and easier to remove and the other is grey and very hard to get off.

[@johnnyappleseed6665]

wheres the block on the non truss side?

[@baileysair]

The tech just holds a block of wood on up to the box and the other guy in the house screws the can to the block, then screws the register to the block of wood.

[@chrisnavarro4144]

You should frame the box instead of that little wood that’s the proper way

[@baileysair]

Pray tell why you would take the time to cut blocks and nail them in when this works so well? Time is money and I venture to say that the block once cemented in place using foam is going no where, while the other side is screwed to a truss. The long sides need no backing so it is just a waste of time and material. Now, if this was a house that was not already had drywall hung, the go ahead and build a frame to support the box.

[@richardshlansky5513]

Registers or returns should be 3 feet away from smoke detectors by code.

[@baileysair]

Yes sir, so noted, but this is not a register or a return it is a cross over.

[@cholmcholm7286]

You should be 3' away from that smoke detector. NFPA70

[@baileysair]

Code is code, move the detector.

[@yolandarivera5185]

I guess

[@-mejor-que-nostradamus-6152]

A Lot Of People Donot Know How Install A/C Registers, Just Like You, Others Are A HVAC Technicians And Same Problem I Can See In KZbin. Amén.

[@ludwig6332]

Didnt mouont the other block to a stable joist, using those plastic ties, be replacing those in few years, using tape ? its quick and easy, but that glue will dry shortly, peel right off. This new generation of quick and easy is like buying crappy tools from china.

[@baileysair]

@@ludwig6332I respectfully have to disagree, we have used this procedure for more than 30 years without problems. Panduits combined with mastic and tape is triple redundant. Attaching the block to the framing is a waste of time as it only acts as backing for the screw.

[@ErnieRomero-c2m]

Where is your MASK

[@baileysair]

Setting in the truck.

[@chrisnavarro4144]

Dam doesn’t even tape the duct instead uses duct sealant 🤦

[@baileysair]

No, he does tape it and uses mastic.

[@marcuscicero9735]

Thank you for showing the correct way. So glad I found you. Watched many videos before yours but you guys are excellent. 👏

[@baileysair]

Thanks for the comment. We were doing this 50 years ago when we were cutting in a new system on an existing house. The only difference then was the ducts were hard pipe and we didn't have expanding foam to fill and seal the gaps. However, we did seal the ducts using a paint like mastic/mixture and canvas cloth tape that we would cut lengths of and dip in the mastic and then apply over the seams by hand and smooth out. It dry and become air tight. We also didn't care about sealing the can to the sheetrock. Back in the 80's they found out those gaps between the can and the drywall was a significant source of air leaks and it became mandatory to seal the can to the drywall. Adding to that we have found that if you have dirt streaks at your registers we have found that those gaps can be the culprit and simply sealing the can will solve those pesky streaks of dirt around your register.

[@alexd8213]

You guys are pros. I like the tape around the register. Great job!!!!

[@baileysair]

The tape around the register helps to keep the expanding foam from dripping down onto the flooring also. Thanks for the comment.

[@JoseRamirez-fr7jz]

thank you for the video

[@themarcosaguila1]

Awesome video thanks

[@donnimetropolis9899]

No mask insulation & coughing..... wow

[@baileysair]

No, he usually wears a mask in attics and under houses when he going to be up there for quite awhile , I think, he just forgot to put it on and/or didn't think he would need it on this small a job. Plus he didn't want to make me wait longer up there.

[@L1GGHT]

👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽

[@elijahgoodman3140]

What kind of screws did he use to secure boot? Great video

[@baileysair]

He used 1/4" x 1-1/2" s/m screws.

[@Arieldny]

thanks for the video! i was curious how to hold a ceiling register boot with now flanges. really nice and nice seal too.

[@baileysair]

Glad it was helpful!

[@amazinkprinting997]

Thank you so much guys. You did such a wonderful job. Keep it up !

[@baileysair]

Thank you too!

[@anji421]

Yes finally after watching so many video i got the perfect video and so simple thanks for that 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@baileysair]

Thanks for watching. If you went to 100 companies this is how 90% of them cut in a register in an existing home.

[@markmccoy9302]

😊

[@lorib5323]

to move a vent just 6 feet, does anyone know a basic price range? Are we looking at over $1K?

[@baileysair]

Depending on what we have to do I figure about $600 usually. I know some contractors will do it for less than that, usually one man companies and others that will charge closer to $900. For the $600 that includes 2 to 3 hours labor for two guys and the materials.

[@lorib5323]

@@baileysair thanks for being honest. I just needed a ballpark. Thank you!

[@Sargeantize]

No mastic?

[@baileysair]

Oh yes he did use mastic, only real way to seal the can.

[@larrylupe]

Our attic has fiberglass insulation so we don't have the immediate luxury of covering the boot up with blown-in cellulose insulation. I've seen people wrap these with insulation first but feel that would interfere the expanding foams ability to make an air tight seal. For someone that doesn't have blown-in insulation how would you recommend insulating the boot portion. I also will be using 2x4 to secure the boot in place since we have to replace all of our boots in our ceiling.

[@baileysair]

I would use FSK to wrap it after install. If the local big box home improvement store doesn't have some. However, buying a whole roll is expensive, so I would try a couple local HVAC companies to see if they will sell you enough to wrap the box with. Of course if you have lots to wrap then a whole roll might be the way to go Here is a link to it at HD www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-60-sq-ft-R-8-Insulated-Duct-Wrap-INSWRP60R8/302000644

[@baileysair]

I have also seen where people have just purchased batt insulation and cut it to fit tightly around and over the boot. One thing to remember, in order for the insulation to be effective you need the insulation needs to be touching the box on all exposed parts to the attic, any gaps or spaces defeat the R Value of the insulation.

[@larrylupe]

@@baileysair, What type of screws are you using to secure the "straight?" boot to the joist/block of wood?

[@baileysair]

@@larrylupe They are using 1.5 inch x 1/4 inch sheet metal screws

[@robertpalmatier2699]

Nice!

[@baileysair]

Thanks!

[@kevintoledo4445]

What do you attract the register to?

[@baileysair]

One side is against the framing and the other side we screw a piece of 2X4 to the box and gun foam it in place for backing.

[@Eddie-In-Las-Vegas]

Did you not watch the carefully detailed video that went into explaining everything and breaking down each step on how to install the register? I mean if you gotta ask that question why don't you just replay the video and maybe you'll get your questioned answered. If you still don't get it, then maybe this type of work isn't for you.....just sayin'

[@smplyizzy]

What type of tape did he use to seal the flex duct to the register box?

[@baileysair]

We use a UL 181 listed tape. There are several brands on the market but the current one we use is Berry 555 as it is cheaper than Nashua or Polyken. Here is a link to the spec sheet. resource.gemaire.com/is/content/Watscocom/Gemaire/berry_1141184_article_1414406861828_en_ss.pdf

[@WhyLuckhy]

Frame out the box lol

[@baileysair]

Not necessary, the 2X4 block they were using for backing for the screw is foamed in. The foam acts as glue and will secure the 2X4 block in place. The other side of the register is screwed into a truss. It would be a waste of time to frame in a box in the attic considering the only reason for the 2X4 block is for backing on the screw for the register. Time is money. 50-years from now it will still be in great shape. Simply said, a register is not structural.