Bambu AMS Mods you NEED To Print Now!

[@Bluechikn]

Congrats on 5K... keep making these solid videos! I dont even have this AMS version and I watched this video.

[@jet_lea]

Thank you!

[@jamis1232]

I don’t even have a printer yet but still watched it

[@caseypries7559]

I've printed my own custom spools for elegoo PETG. I peel each side of the cardboard spool and insert the spool half, then flip it over and do the same. The halfs screw together and so far have worked very well. It sort of mimics the bambu refill system.

[@jet_lea]

No way, do you have this stl on maker world?

[@caseypries7559]

@jet_lea I haven't posted it but probably should. The only downside of it is the inside is small enough it won't fit my external spool holder. But it works great in the AMS.

[@caseypries7559]

@@jet_lea I just uploaded it as "Elegoo Spool Replacement". It may take some time to show up.

[@Tomteleck]

be sure to wrap the filament with some painters tape before tearing at the spool. helps hold it in place

[@caseypries7559]

​@@TomteleckI've honestly not had a problem. I just take my time peeling off the cardboard.

[@VaxDev]

As a quick reminder, because i discovered yesterday. Elegoo has a video showing how to use the elegoo spool as refillable for the reusable bambulab spools

[@jet_lea]

I’ll have to check it out

[@ZeorGaming]

This is what I do. I have 8 bambu reusable spools and just transplant the elegoo spools onto those every time I need to use another roll.

[@garethcarberry7516]

Thank you, Mary Christmas 🎉

[@fritski2381]

No idea how I just now figured out you had a channel, but this is awesome!! Congrats on 5k!!!

[@jet_lea]

Thank you!!

[@GunnerAl9]

Great video, nice pace, clear voice and efficient video editing. I loved all the mods and will probably two or three of them. Love the storage tray and the plate holder. Just need to find the right colors to use for the cabinet and drawers. I going to add text to the drawers to cite what is inside them. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Liked and following!

[@jet_lea]

Glad you found it helpful! I appreciate the kind words :)

[@hagsmich]

Great video with great information. Printing now.

[@My-First-3D-Printer]

Hey brother!! Great mods! I have been working on creating a ton of stuff for the printer and for building products. BambuLab is super solid!!

[@jet_lea]

I agree :)

[@rogerhuston8287]

I just ordered my first printer. Where do i get boden tube? I didn't see a link for it. These, along with a poop shoot will be my first prints.

[@aeonjoey3d]

I prefer the official refillable desiccant boxes printable from Bambu Lab on the maker's supply page ;) they allow you to remove the boxes without taking spools out and fit many hygrometers.

[@jet_lea]

I’ll have to check them out

[@liyah7867]

wow this is a fantastic video, super helpful. so glad it autoplayed! just subscribed

[@jet_lea]

I'm glad you're here!

[@loquacious1956]

Just a heads up on the spool adapters. If you use a filament dryer make sure you take the adapters off first ... I left mine on only to find them warped and unusable after my filament had done its drying cycle,

[@radish6691]

Or use a filament that can withstand higher temperatures. Filament dryers blow air hotter than the set temperature so PLA is probably never suitable for a functional print to be used inside a filament dryer. Bambu Lab’s filament specs give temperature and drying time in a blast drying oven, which is a precision device (±1°C). Filament dryers are nowhere near that precise, check out My Tech Fun who has posted 20 filament dryer test videos. Anyway, specs: - PLA Basic has a heat deflection temperature (HDT) of 57°C, recommended blast drying oven temperature of 55°C. - PETG HF: HDT 69°C, oven temperature 65°C - ASA: HDT 100°C, oven temperature 80°C So, if you can print ASA then use it to print spool adapters, spool weights, filament clips…anything you’ll stick in a filament dryer. PETG is probably fine to use when drying PLA, and PLA is not recommended for functional prints placed in a filament dryer.

[@jet_lea]

Definitely good to keep in mind, I’ve been using abs for things outside and they’re holding up well so far

[@ShinesMonkey1]

To put the AMS on the side, how did you get the Bowden tube and cable from the AMS to reach to the side to the printer?

[@jet_lea]

everything was able to reach just fine for me

[@braixeninfection6312]

I like the drawers. But 600g of filament is a bit much for me. And I've only had one issue with the AMS. Sometimes the filament would get stuck in the almost empty spool requiring the AMS to retract then pull again to pop it out of the groove but it didn't stop the print (happened only while loading the filament and not during printing). Other issue I had was completely my fault. I forgot to reattach the PTFE tube to the printer but did plug the AMS in. So it tried to load and spat a ton of filament everywhere lmao.

[@jet_lea]

it’s definitely a lot of filament you’re right.. I feel like recently i’ve been getting less ams errors, i used to get them almost every print

[@ShadowZergling]

I love the AMS shelf here, but wondering how to upgrade it to stack 2 AMS?

[@jet_lea]

that would be a good upgrade for sure

[@The_Vhibe]

Did I miss the link for the STL file for the cardboard filament brim? I love that brand of filament.

[@jet_lea]

It’s under “elegoo spool adapter” in bio!

[@simonesantarsiero3784]

Hello everyone, I was wondering which brand of filament are you guys using. Is it better to buy plastic spools of filament (from bambulab for example) and then when you collect enough spools starts to use refills or should I go with cardboard filaments that will be covered on the edge to allow a smooth print on the ams system? Thank you so much

[@natmickan]

I really like the polydryer mod that Keo Prints did (not featured here). IMO it’s a game changer, but you do have to be prepared to cut your AMS housing to do it.

[@jet_lea]

I’ll have to look into it

[@0hmyl0rdd_]

The first one has absolutely saved me. I thank the KZbin algorithm gods for showing me this, and I thank you my good sir 🙏

[@jet_lea]

no, thank YOU!

[@martyn_b_jones]

Some nice mods to add to the list of things to print 👍

[@jet_lea]

🫡

[@hymie1442]

Is there a specific Elegoo spool cover I should use? The one I printed scrapes against the AMS cover and prevents the spool from turning.

[@Show-MeSlotCars]

I have used the brims for Elegoo filament, but when I install them the lid to the AMS does not close completely. I have been just running the Elegoo spools naked, and it seems that since the edges are not raw cardboard they have held up pretty well without the brim. Anyone else raw dogging their Elegoo spools?

[@arenree]

You’ve convinced me to get a P1S after getting an A1. One thing I did notice between the machine is that the P1S is noticeably louder than the A1. Have you look into any mods to help deaden this noise? It’s close to unbearable in my home office 😢

[@braixeninfection6312]

I found printing at a slow speed helps. Mostly it's not the print speed itself, but the acceleration. And dropping to silent does quiet it a lot. But I still am unable to sleep with it running since it's like 5ft from my bed lol.

[@Gyvalor]

Great content, thanks for sharing.

[@jet_lea]

Thanks for watching!

[@Koldfusion77]

As a weed grower I can tell you that those temp humidity sensors suck. Buy 20 and watch how random the displays are. 5% is too inaccurate. Buy a Bosch BME 280/BME 680 and use an ESP32 with HomeAssistant for MUCH better accuracy. Those Hygrometers are a waste of cash.

[@zurialjazz]

Do you got a pic or diagram of setup

[@TheRealJayNadzOLD]

I use them to monitor the desiccant not the ams itself People think it shows the reading for the ams itself, no it doesn’t

[@zurialjazz]

I see the parts. Would be interested diagram or direction.

[@travisfandrich4904]

so is it common that there are supports inside of the drybox pieces? and how do i get them out of there...?

[@jet_lea]

ive had some success with needle nose pliers personally

[@LostatSea-wg5fw]

i wish my problems were bubbling, sticking, etc...all i get is extruder clogging and by now the extruder is messed up with all the disassembly and reassembly

[@jet_lea]

Did you solve this problem yet??

[@divisionbyzero7916]

Den Mülleimer mit Anpassung an die hintere externe Filamentrolle finde ich auch gut

[@pathol3107]

I love the dry box system. Can you put the PLA in the microwave? can someone tell me how long?

[@mdwilson94]

Comment said to print holders in ASA and then you can put it in the microwave on defrost for like 10 mins

[@Jack-lk1sg]

I wanted to comment on the desiccant mods. I just printed a couple of containers for the desiccant that go where the stock slots are and filled it with the same rechargeable beads. Where I live the relative humidity in my room is sitting at 60%+. My AMS hydrometer is currently reading 16% so just replacing the stock slots works really well for me if you want to save some filament and printing time on the containers that people put in the front.

[@jet_lea]

That’s a great idea, I might have to try that!

[@Jack-lk1sg]

@@jet_lea yeah give it a shot! the desiccant beads have worked great for me and the hydrometers were like $10 for 6 on amazon

[@braixeninfection6312]

I did the same. Replaced the rear covers with printed cases that I can refill as needed. Though I need to get some color changing stuff. Currently just cutting open a ton of packs to dump in there. But works really well!

[@md278x]

Great vid!

[@jet_lea]

Thank you!

[@blakes8901]

Just want to let any viewers who might be considering putting an AMS riser/stand of any kind on top of their printer that I noticed an almost immediate decline in print quality that only went away after removing the riser from on top of my printer. I'm pretty sure they degrade the printer's vibration compensation abilities significantly, because the problem I was noticing was a massive increase in ringing and VFAs. Despite several recalibrations after installing my riser (not the one in the video, but the same logic applies) attempting to solve the issue, the only thing that ever ended the printing artifacts I was seeing was removing the riser from the printer. I might even consider removing the AMS from on top of my printer altogether eventually, once I have more space.

[@964cuplove]

The drawers look a bit narrower than the AMS, that’s a waste of space - right ?

[@jet_lea]

Yes and no, it’s where the rails are for the bins to slide

[@CannonQuacks]

W VID 🔥

[@jet_lea]

Thanks!

[@davidl6354]

you were the reason why I got an a1 mini and a p1s haha

[@jet_lea]

I hope i pointed you in the right direction!

[@davidl6354]

@@jet_lea you need to install the hardened gears and hardened nozzle. I just did a pa6-CF print and it looks amazing

[@jet_lea]

@davidl6354 That’s awesome, are you using it for industrial purposes?

[@davidl6354]

@@jet_lea i just designed and made an manual shifter offset for a buddy’s drift car. And thought it was the appropriate material to use. No one sells what he was looking for and his open drift is tomorrow.

[@antoniomromo]

Regarding the the cardboard spool, you can actually remove the outer parts and fit them in the bambu spool. Another creator made a video on how to do it, and others have commented on what brands fit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpLbiaedoLeBY8U

[@jet_lea]

wow i didn’t know that, i might give it a try

[@jessejamesmcguire]

You need to look into the hydra pro mod or python mod.

[@jet_lea]

I am definitely considering it

[@jessejamesmcguire]

@jet_lea if you don't want to print it voxel has it already printed.

[@Blackirishize]

Great Video, got a sub from me.

[@jet_lea]

Thanks! Appreciate the support

[@Samson_Customs]

Can u tell me what PS1 error 07ff 1000 means

[@kirilvelichkov2218]

I think you should not fill in teh middle container with dessicant. (the one with the hydrometer inside). It gives you incorrect results for the humidity.

[@jet_lea]

That’s a good idea, definitely will get more accurate readings that way

[@ezloot4u433]

​@@jet_leathe reading might not be as accurate but thats still more desiccant inside for moisture removal.

[@natmickan]

That hasn’t been my experience. I had a few hygrometers and I wondered about that, so I put them all in. Being in the middle made no change to the reading whatsoever. *Maybe* it could give slight variations if the hygrometer in the middle section had any sides directly exposed to the desiccant; but that’s not how the design works, and all airflow has to come through the back of that chamber. The moisture content in the AMS took about half an hour to fully balance out between the different hygrometers. A closed system is a closed system, and IME the AMS isn’t big enough to have microclimates within it, especially not if the filament goes in dry. I think this concern falls under the umbrella of “it sounds like a reasonable concern at first, but when you think about it/in practice it just doesn’t hold up’. Everyone’s experience could be different, but I agree with ezloot4u433 when they say it’s better to have the additional desiccant, because it changed *nothing* on my hygrometer’s readings

[@jasonhailey2006]

Thank you for this video, i liked it. Please 3D print a razor blade to shave your moustache

[@hagsmich]

love the drawer stand but your statement of grams of filament means nothing to me, half a spool, whole spool etc would be more understandable.

[@jet_lea]

every standard spool of filament is 1,000 grams. hope this helps!

[@ArabellaPottery]

Mod 1 just means males hve not read the directions. Useless. Mod 2 is bogus. mod 3 nope. 4. Useful. 5. Nope.

[@jet_lea]

to each their own