Bandai Star Wars 1/144 AT-AT Step by Step Painting and Weathering

Hi everyone, in this (very long) video I go over every step I use to heavily weather an AT-AT in 1/144 scale from Bandai.
I use ink and acrylic washes, color modulation, chipping and then mainly oil paint rendering to get a very worn effect.
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Here are the chapters below:
00:00 Introduction
00:33 Repainting
01:49 Ink and Acrylic Washes
06:07 Chipping
09:30 Oil Paint Rendering Basics
12:10 Oil Staining on the Legs
18:50 Oil Streaking on the Body
24:55 Blaster Effects
26:15 Lava Effects
28:00 Final Reveal
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You can find me on Facebook here: / beckermodelling

[@MGB-learning]

Great video

[@cygnusx10]

Superb finish. And it gets rid of a shelf queen. Looking forward to the next one on this with the dio. Great video thanks for sharing.

[@beckersmodels]

Thanks - and yes, only 13 or 30 or so - lost count to go! Cheers, Chris

[@yellowcake1320]

Your finishes keep getting better buddy......great stuff

[@beckersmodels]

Hey thanks Joe! I'm more happy that I'm actually finishing stuff these days! Cheers, Chris

[@maverick1013]

Lovely model,,have one as well waiting to be finished,,i love the different tones and weathering techniques that you applied and the base really sets of the model,,

[@beckersmodels]

thanks - it was a fun model and base to make, for sure...cheers Chris

[@starwarsisajoke]

Loving your Star Wars tutorials and reviews.

[@beckersmodels]

Thanks Troy - still have plenty of projects ready to tackle! Cheers Chris

[@RyanByrne999]

Amazing work! ILM should hire you!

[@beckersmodels]

Wow, thanks! I'm not that good - I prefer my own style, check out John Simmons and other master builders who do true studio style stuff!

[@hanssmidt12]

I really love your channel

[@SteveJonesScaleModellingSite]

Beautiful work. Great video and build. Thanks for sharing

[@beckersmodels]

Thanks Steve!

[@hanssmidt12]

Fresh

[@trumpisacrybabydictatornar914]

You know for my kit if you look where the head attaches to the neck there’s a big gap and you’re actually wearing the gloves that I use to fix that you take the rest of your glove and cut off a ring you glue that to the inside of the head and glue the other side to the neck when the glue is dry you paint it to match the rest of the walker this way you can still turn the head and the glove will hide the gap

[@deanmcbeth4140]

Great modelling mate

[@beckersmodels]

Thanks Dean!

[@trumpisacrybabydictatornar914]

It looks Beautiful how about adding some real metal tin wire add some pipes underneath for some 3-D effect and then maybe add some small chains to make it look like there’s some chains hanging kind of give it that Walker affect from the new video game where the walkers are going through the water and the guy has jump on I think that would look cool with your model

[@tulsa9999]

Fantastic work, throughout this process are you cleaning the various blending brushes in between colours?

[@beckersmodels]

Thanks Kirk. I normally use three blending brushes and only use them for one color range - so a highlight blender, a mid tone and a dark tone. That way you're not contaminating the colors but also stops you cleaning the brushes and leaving them wet with too much spirits. At the end of each session I give them a quick wet clean so they are dry for the next session. Hope that helps, cheers Chris

[@1965GJS13]

Looks great, but I can't use *any* lacquer paints due to the horrendous smell.

[@beckersmodels]

That's ok - use Tamiya acrylics thinned with their acrylic thinner or similar. This technique can be used over acrylics. Cheers, Chris

[@gac914]

Will the artist's oils dry on the plastic on its own, or do you have to mix a bit of dull-clearcoat in your airbrush to "lock" those colors in? I've painted in oils on canvas in the past, and it seems to take FOREVER to dry out. I'd like to use it on styrene/plastic but not sure if the dull-coat spray would dilute and push-around the oils and spoil the effect.

[@beckersmodels]

Due to the already dry nature of the oils (502 Abteilung especially, but even the Mig AMMO oilbrushers), they only take a day or so to fully dry, particularly if you are not using a lot of enamel thinner or white spirit to blend them/push them around. Some modellers will place the oil on a piece of cardboard to leech out the linseed oil therein, and its a very dry oil that once applied will dry very quickly (overnight). Its best to apply the oils on a surface that already has a semi gloss or matt coat finish (either straight matt paint or a matt coat over gloss paint), they wont move around as much, but more than enough for our purposes. Usually I wait several days after I've finished the whole model and lock the whole weathering in with a few lights of dullcote/matt coat to seal in all the effects.

[@kyllerkill]

I’ve never had a problem with a enamel wash. And I’ve done close to 50 Bandai kits. Where ever did you hear that outlandish rumor. That’s so far out there.

[@beckersmodels]

Its pretty much across all the Bandai Star Wars forums, particularly on the AT-ST kits when you apply in the stressed joints of the legs. Depends how much you apply and how thin they are too I guess - lots of variables, but its definitely a known concern across the hobby. I've sidestepped it by using oils and inks.

[@limjahey3119]

I can confirm. I made an enamel wash thinned with turp to put on my AT-ST. Some of it got between the head and the earpiece that holds the turret and it ate the plastic.